FR3140275A1 - Cosmetic hair care composition comprising specific amino silicones and additional silicones, and method for cosmetic hair treatment. - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising: - one or more particular amino silicones, having an amine index ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass ranging from 10,000 at 100,000; and - one or more silicones different from the amino silicones of formula (I). The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of hair using said composition.

Description

Cosmetic hair care composition comprising specific amino silicones and additional silicones, and method for cosmetic hair treatment.

The present invention relates to a cosmetic hair care composition comprising one or more particular amino silicones and one or more additional silicones different from said particular amino silicones, as well as a method of cosmetic hair treatment using said composition.

Hair is sensitive to many types of aggression and can be weakened and damaged to varying degrees by the external environment, in particular by the action of atmospheric agents such as light, atmospheric pollution and bad weather, as well as by mechanical or chemical treatments such as brushing, combing, dyeing, bleaching, perming and/or straightening, or even repeated washing.

The properties of damaged hair are then degraded and we can observe different manifestations of the damage, such as difficulty detangling and styling the hair, lack of softness of the hair, hair which can eventually become dry, brittle or dull, in particular in fragile places, and more particularly at the tips.

To remedy these drawbacks, and in particular to repair damaged hair, it is usual to use hair cosmetic compositions intended to condition the hair by providing it with satisfactory cosmetic properties. Current compositions generally aim to reduce hair surface defects in particular via the deposition of compounds with conditioning valence such as silicones, and more particularly aminated silicones. The effects obtained are generally based on the use of high levels of silicones, which can however have the disadvantage of a weighing down effect, or loss of lightness, of the hair.

Furthermore, although there are numerous treatment formulas for hair repair, they generally do not provide the hair with entirely satisfactory and long-lasting cosmetic properties, particularly when the hair is very weakened, sensitized or damaged. Thus, we have observed that for the most damaged hair, the level of care may prove insufficient; in particular the smoothness (visual and to the touch) of the hair as well as its softness can be further improved.

Furthermore, the perception of these effects is generally only possible at the time of application and in the few hours that follow.

Finally, the use of high levels of silicone may be perceived unfavorably by consumers.

The invention therefore aims to propose a cosmetic hair care composition which solves the problems mentioned above, and in particular will provide a high level of care and conditioning, in particular to the most damaged hair, these effects being perceptible even at low levels of amino silicone.

The present invention also aims to propose compositions that perform well in terms of cosmetic properties provided to the hair, on the one hand at the time of application and on the other hand sustainably over time.

The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic hair care composition comprising:

- one or more amino silicones of formula (I) as defined below, and

- one or more silicones different from the amino silicones of formula (I).

It has been found that the composition according to the invention rinses easily, which makes it possible to avoid the use of large quantities of water to eliminate it if necessary, for example when the composition is in the form of shampoo or shampoo. rinse-out conditioner.

After application, it provides a good level of care, in particular a smooth touch and visual character, softness, a homogeneous coating from root to tip and therefore repair of damaged ends, as well as ultimately a clean and smooth feel. natural, and without weighing down, hair. The benefits of care and repair are very marked while maintaining added value in lightness and cleanliness.

We also observed a better definition of curls when the composition is applied to curly hair, as well as an effect of discipline and control of the hair, good volume control, an addition of shine, an anti-frizz effect and a contribution fluidity and movement to the hair.

These effects of care and lightness and clean touch are significant from application and remain perceptible for at least 24 hours, or until the next shampoo. They can even persist after shampooing.

In addition, these cosmetic performances, in particular detangling, softness, smoothness and coating, can advantageously be obtained with a low silicone content, in particular a lower content than the content usually used.

In this description, and unless otherwise indicated:

- the term “molecular weight” is equivalent to the term “molecular mass”;
- the expression “at least one” is equivalent to the expression “one or more” and can be substituted;
- the expression “between” is equivalent to the expression “ranging from” and can be substituted for it, and implies that the limits are included.

By “cosmetic hair care composition” is meant in the context of the invention a cosmetic composition for washing (or cleaning) hair, and/or for conditioning hair.

Said composition can be presented in all the forms conceivable by those skilled in the art, and include the additional ingredients usually used in this type of composition.

This cosmetic composition for hair care, in particular for washing and/or conditioning the hair, can be, for example, a shampoo, a pre-shampoo (to be applied before a shampoo), a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, these compositions being able to be rinsed or not rinsed (leave-in) after application.

The composition can be presented, in a known manner, in the form of gels, hair lotions and care creams of varying thickness.

In the context of the present invention, the cosmetic hair care composition is advantageously a pre-shampoo, a conditioner, a hair mask, a hair serum, these compositions being able to be rinsed or not rinsed after application.

The composition can therefore comprise, in a known manner, one or more surfactants, one or more non-silicone fatty substances, one or more polymers, one or more thickeners, one or more polyols, as well as a mixture of these different ingredients.

Amino silicone

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (I):
(I)

in which :

- R, identical or different, represents a methyl group (CH ₃ ), a hydroxy radical (OH) or an alkoxy group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms (OR1 with R1 = C1-C4 alkyl);

- R' represents a methyl group (CH ₃ ) or a hydroxy radical (OH);

- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms;

the aminated silicone having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000.

Preferably, R, identical or different, represents a methyl group and/or a hydroxy radical. Better still, the two radicals R are identical, and represent a methyl group or a hydroxy radical, even better a methyl radical.

Preferably, R’ represents a methyl group.

Preferably, A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; better a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -).

In formula (I), the values of n and m are chosen such that the aminated silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000.

Preferably, the aminated silicone of formula (I) has an amine index ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq/g, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g, even better ranging from 0. 1 to 0.16 meq/g.

Preferably, the aminated silicone of formula (I) has a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 20,000 to 70,000, better still from 25,000 to 50,000, even better from 35,000 to 45,000.

A person skilled in the art will be able to determine, on the basis of their general knowledge, the values of n and m in order to obtain a silicone having the desired amine index and molecular mass.

Preferably, in formula (I), m is between 1.4 and 13, better still between 1.4 and 9, even better between 1.5 and 5; and the n/m ratio is between 45 and 330, better between 100 and 300.

The value of n can then easily be determined based on all of these data; in particular, n can be between 400 and 600.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more amino silicones of formula (I):
(I)

in which :

- R, identical, and R’ represent a methyl group,

- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-),

aminated silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 25,000 to 50,000.

Preferably, in this embodiment, m is between 1.4 and 13, the ratio n/m is between 45 and 300 and n can be between 400 and 600.

The aminated silicone of formula (I) preferably has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better still from 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000- 6000 cps), even better 3 to 5 Pa.s.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content which may range from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight. weight, even better 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferably 0.02 to 2% by weight, better still 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, better still 0.1 to 1.2 % by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The amino silicone of formula (I) can be prepared by all the means usually used in the silicone industry.

Additional silicones

The composition according to the invention also comprises one or more additional silicones, which may in particular be chosen from aminated silicones, non-aminated silicones, and mixtures thereof.

The additional silicone(s) are different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

By this we mean that said additional silicones do not fall within the definition of formula (I), for example because they do not have an amine number and/or a molecular mass as defined for silicones of formula (I) and/or because the meaning of at least one of their radicals R, R' and/or A is different from those indicated for the silicones of formula (I) or even because they have a structure chemically different from that of silicones of formula (I).

The composition according to the invention may therefore comprise one or more non-aminated silicones, which may be solid or liquid (at 25°C, 1 atm), volatile or non-volatile. Preferably, the non-amine silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones.

The non-amine silicones which may be used may be soluble or insoluble in the composition according to the invention; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; oils and silicone gums are preferred.

Silicones are described in detail in the work of Walter NOLL "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

The volatile silicones can be chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 and 260°C (at atmospheric pressure 1 atm), in particular from:

i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably 4 to 5, such as

- octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane (D4) and decamethylcyclopentasiloxane (D5). We can cite the products marketed under the name "VOLATILE SILICONE 7207" by UNION CARBIDE or "SILBIONE 70045 V 2" by RHODIA, "VOLATILE SILICONE 7158" by UNION CARBIDE, "SILBIONE 70045 V 5" by RHODIA.

- cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane/methylalkylsiloxane type with chemical structure:

We can cite the “VOLATILE SILICONE FZ 3109” marketed by the company UNION CARBIDE.

- mixtures of cyclic silicones with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1'-(hexa-2, 2,2',2',3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy)bis-neopentane;

ii) linear polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms, which generally have a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ^-6 m ² /s at 25°C, such as decamethyltetrasiloxane.

Other silicones falling into this class are described in the article published in Cosmetics and toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics"; we can cite the product marketed under the name "SH 200" by the company TORAY SILICONE.

Among the non-volatile silicones, mention may be made, alone or in mixture, of polydialkylsiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS or dimethicone), polydiarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes, silicone gums and resins, as well as non-amine organopolysiloxanes (or polysiloxanes). organomodified, or even organomodified silicones) which are polysiloxanes comprising in their structure one or more non-amine organofunctional groups, generally fixed via a hydrocarbon group, and preferably chosen from aryl groups, alkoxy groups and groups polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylenated.

The organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes.

Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of organopolysiloxanes comprising:

- polyoxyethylene and/or polyoxypropylene groups optionally comprising C ₆ -C ₂₄ alkyl groups such as dimethicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name DC 1248 or SILWET ^® L 722, L 7500 oils , L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE; or alternatively alkyl(C ₁₂ )-methicone-copolyols, and in particular those marketed by the company DOW CORNING under the name Q2-5200;

- thiol groups, such as the products marketed under the names “GP 72 A” and “GP 71” from GENESEE;

- alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "SILICONE COPOLYMER F-755" by SWS SILICONES and ABIL WAX ^® 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT;

- hydroxyl groups, such as polyorganosiloxanes with a hydroxyalkyl function;

- acyloxyalkyl groups such as the polyorganosiloxanes described in patent US-A-4957732.

- anionic groups of the carboxylic acid type, as for example described in EP186507, or of the alkyl-carboxylic type such as the product X-22-3701E from the company SHIN-ETSU; or of the 2-hydroxyalkylsulfonate or 2-hydroxyalkylthiosulfate type, such as the products marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names "ABIL ^® S201" and "ABIL ^® S255".

The silicones can also be chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which we can mainly cite polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone). Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, the following commercial products can be cited:

- SILBIONE® oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70 047 V 500 000;

- oils from the MIRASIL® series marketed by the company RHODIA;

- 200 series oils from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having viscosity 60,000 mm ² /s;

- VISCASIL® oils from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS and certain SF series oils (SF 96, SF 18) from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS.

We can also cite polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal dimethylsilanol groups (CTFA: dimethiconol) such as the 48 series oils from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, we can also cite the products marketed under the names "ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801" by the company GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

Products which can be used more particularly in accordance with the invention are mixtures such as:

- mixtures formed from a polydimethylsiloxane hydroxylated at the end of the chain, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such as the product Q2-1401 marketed by the company DOW CORNING.

The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are particularly chosen from polydimethyl/methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and/or branched polydimethyl/diphenylsiloxanes with viscosities ranging from 1.10 ^-5 to 5.10 ^-2 m²/s at 25°C.

Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, we can cite the products marketed under the following names:

- SILBIONE® oils from the 70 641 series from RHODIA;

- RHODORSIL® 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHODIA;

- DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from DOW CORNING;

- silicones from the PK series from BAYER such as the PK20 product;

- silicones from the PN, PH series from BAYER such as the PN1000 and PH1000 products;

- certain oils from the SF series from MOMENTIVE PERFORMANCE MATERIALS such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250, SF 1265.

The non-amine silicones more particularly preferred according to the invention are polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups (CTFA: dimethicone).

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more additional amino silicones, different from the amino silicones of formula (I) as defined above.

By amine silicone we designate any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

The amino silicones which can be used according to the present invention can be volatile or non-volatile, cyclic, linear or branched, and preferably have a viscosity ranging from 5*10 ^-6 to 2.5 m ² /s at 25°C. , for example from 1*10 ^-5 to 1 m ² /s. Preferably, the additional amino silicones are chosen from non-volatile liquid silicones (25°C, 1 atm).

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from, alone or in mixtures, the following compounds:

A) polysiloxanes corresponding to formula (Ia):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 5000 and 500000 g/mol;

B) amino silicones corresponding to formula (IIa):

R' _a G _3-a -Si(OSiG ₂ ) _n -(OSiG _b R' _2-b ) _m -O-SiG _3-a' -R'_a' (IIa)

in which :

- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl group, for example methyl or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, a' identical or different, designate 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0, provided that at least one of a or a' is equal to zero,

- b designates 0 or 1, in particular 1,

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And

- R', identical or different, designates a monovalent radical of formula -C _q H _2q L in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an amine group optionally quaternized chosen from the groups: -NR''- QN(R'') ₂ , -N(R'') ₂ , -N ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- , -N ⁺ H(R'') ₂ A ^- , -N ⁺ H ₂ (R'') A ^- , -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'')H ₂ A ^- , -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₂ HA ^- and -NR''-QN ⁺ (R'') ₃ A ^- , in which R'', identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, for example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q designates a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A ^- represents a cosmetically acceptable anion, in particular a halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (IIa) can be chosen from:

(i) “trimethylsilylamodimethicone” silicones corresponding to formula (III):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, preferably from 20 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 600, better still from 50 to 150; n can designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

(ii) silicones of formula (IV) following:

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5; And

- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol, more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.

(iii) silicones of formula (V) following:

in which :

- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p + q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p designating a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q designating a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5; And

- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the R ₁ or R ₂ radicals designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 g/mol, more preferably from 5000 to 100000 g/mol and in particular from 10000 to 50000 g/mol.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (IV) or (V) may include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (IV) or (V). A product containing amine silicones of structure (IV) is offered by the company WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652. A product containing amine silicones of structure (V) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300®. Another product containing structural amino silicones (XIV) is offered by WACKER under the name Belsil ADM LOG 1®.

When these amino silicones are used, a particularly interesting embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion may include one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any nature but preferably cationic and/or non-ionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (V), microemulsions are used whose average particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nm (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nm (limits included). Thus, according to the invention, it is possible to use the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (V) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

(iv) silicones of the following formula (VI):

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n designating a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m designating a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And

- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 3500 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING.

(v) silicones of the following formula (VII):

in which :

- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n can designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m can designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10; And

- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of these aminated silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1000000 g/mol and more particularly from 1000 to 200000 g/mol.
A silicone meeting this formula is for example DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

C) amino silicones corresponding to formula (VIII):

in which :

- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;

- Q ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;

- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;

And
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

D) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (IX)

in which :

- R ₇ , identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a cycle comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;

- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;

- R ₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , a radical -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ ;

- X ^- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate; And

- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.
These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974; we can in particular cite the silicone with the INCI name: QUATERNIUM 80.

Silicones falling into this class are the silicones marketed by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the names ABIL QUAT 3270, ABIL QUAT 3272, ABIL QUAT 3474.

E) amino silicones of formula (X):

in which :

- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , identical or different, designate a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,

- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,

- n is an integer varying from 1 to 5,

- m is an integer varying from 1 to 5, and

- x is chosen such that the amine index varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g;

F) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of type (AB) _n , A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones are preferably made up of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R-] or

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ -RN(R'')-R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]
in which :

- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;

- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 to 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;

- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;

- R’’ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;

- R, identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R, identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R designate a radical CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ -; And

- R', identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R', identical or different, denote an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' designate -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by moles of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly 70 to 85% by moles.

The amine level is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5000 and 1000000 g/mol, more particularly between 10000 and 200000 g/mol.
We can in particular cite the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

G) amino silicones of formulas (XI) and (XII):

in which :

- R, R' and R'', identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a hydroxyl group,

- A denotes a C ₃ alkylene radical; And

- m and n are numbers such that the weight average molecular mass of the compound is between 5000 and 500000.

in which :

- x and y are numbers ranging from 1 to 5000; preferably x ranges from 10 to 2000, and more preferably from 100 to 1000; preferably it goes from 1 to 100;

- R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, preferably identical, designate an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; And

- A designates a linear or branched alkylene radical having 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

Preferably, A comprises 3 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably 4 carbon atoms; preferably A is branched. We can cite in particular the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ - and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are independent saturated linear alkyl groups comprising 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular 12 to 20 carbon atoms; in particular the dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl groups may be mentioned; and preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, are chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

Preferably, in the silicone of formula (XII), we have:

- x ranging from 10 to 2,000, and in particular from 100 to 1,000;

- going from 1 to 100;

- A comprising from 3 to 6 carbon atoms and in particular 4 carbon atoms; preferably, A is branched; and more particularly, A is chosen from the following divalent groups: -CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ and -CH ₂ CH(CH ₃ )CH ₂ -; And

- R ₁ and R ₂ being independently saturated linear alkyl groups comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and in particular from 12 to 20 carbon atoms; chosen in particular from the groups dodecyl, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl, nonadecyl and eicosyl; preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ , identical or different, being chosen from the hexadecyl (cetyl) and octadecyl (stearyl) groups.

A preferred silicone of formula (XII) is bis-cetearylamodimethicone. We can cite in particular the amino silicone sold under the name SILSOFT AX by Momentive.

H) polysiloxanes and in particular polydimethylsiloxanes, comprising primary amine groups at a single chain end or on the side chains, such as those of formula (XIV), (XV) or (XVI):

In formula (XIV), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 1000 and 55000.
As examples of amino silicones of formula (XIV), we can cite the products sold under the names AMS-132, AMS-152, AMS-162, AMS-163, AMS-191 and AMS-1203 by the company Gelest and KF-8015 by the Shin Etsu company.

In formula (XV), the value of n is such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 3000.

As an example of amino silicones of formula (XV), we can cite the products sold under the names MCR-A11 and MCR-A12 by the company Gelest.

In formula (XVI), the values of n and m are such that the weight average molecular mass of the aminated silicone is between 500 and 50,000.

As examples of amino silicones of formula (XVI), we can cite aminopropyl phenyl trimethicone sold under the name DC 2-2078 Fluid by the company Dow Corning.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise as silicone, an amino silicone corresponding to the formula (XVIII) below:

in which :

- n is a number between 1 and 1000, preferably between 10 and 500, better still between 25 and 100, even better between 50 and 80;

- m is a number between 1 and 200, preferably between 1 and 100, better still between 1 and 10 and even better between 1 and 5;

- R' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 5 carbon atoms;

- R'' is a linear or branched divalent alkylene radical, having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 1 to 5 carbon atoms; And

- R''', identical or different, preferably identical, are linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms carbon; said radicals optionally being able to be substituted by one or more OH hydroxyl groups.

Preferably, R' is a divalent linear or branched alkylene radical, preferably branched, comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 2 to 5 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-CH2-, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-.

Preferably, R'' is a divalent linear alkylene radical comprising 1 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 4 carbon atoms; in particular a radical -CH2-CH2-.

Preferably, the R''', identical or different, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably 10 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 12 to 18 carbon atoms; we can in particular cite the dodecyl, C13, tetradecyl, pentadecyl, hexadecyl, heptadecyl, octadecyl radicals; preferably the R''', identical or different, are chosen from saturated linear alkyl radicals having 12 to 16 carbon atoms, in particular C13, C14, C15, alone or in mixture, and better represent a mixture of C13, C14 and C15. Preferably, the R''' are identical.

Preferably, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

- n is a number between 50 and 80;

- m is a number between 1 and 5;

- R''', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R’ is a divalent alkylene radical having 2 to 5 carbon atoms,

- R'' is a divalent linear alkylene radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

Even better, the composition may comprise one or more silicones of formula (XVIII) in which:

- n is a number between 50 and 80;

- m is a number between 1 and 5;

- R''', identical, are saturated linear alkyl radicals comprising from 13 to 15 carbon atoms;

- R' is a radical –(CH ₂ ) ₃ -, -CH2-CH(CH3)-CH2- or –CH2-CH2-CH(CH3)-, and

- R'' is a radical –(CH ₂ ) ₂ -.

A particularly preferred silicone of formula (XVIII) is Bis(C13-15 alkoxy) PG Amodimethicone (INCI name). We can in particular cite the silicone marketed under the name “DOWSIL 8500 Conditioning agent” by DOW.

Preferably, the additional silicone(s) may be chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amine silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups; and/or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional silicone(s) different from the amino silicones of formula (I), in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 1 % by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises the additional silicone(s) chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amine silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and/or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as their mixtures; in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better ranging from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic surfactants

The composition according to the invention may advantageously comprise one or more cationic surfactants.

Said cationic surfactants are non-silicone, that is to say they do not contain a Si-O group.

They are preferably chosen from quaternary ammonium salts, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, or their salts, and their mixtures.

The composition may comprise one or more cationic surfactants chosen from, alone or in a mixture, the following compounds which are quaternary ammonium salts:

- compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :

^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​} ;

the groups R ₁ to R ₄ , which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R ₁ to R ₄ designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms.

The aliphatic groups can include heteroatoms such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ -C ₆ ), C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkylamide, alkyl (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )amido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylacetate, and C ₁ -C ₃₀ hydroxyalkyl.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (II), tetraalkylammonium salts are preferred, such as dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium salts in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium salts, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium; as well as palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyltrimethylammonium salts, stearamidopropyldimethylcetearylammonium salts, or stearamidopropyldimethyl-(myristylacetate)-ammonium salts such as those marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

It is particularly preferred to use the chloride, bromide or methyl sulfate salts of these compounds.

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):
(III)
in which R ₅ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₆ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl group or alkyl comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R ₇ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₈ represents a hydrogen atom, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, X ^- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, R ₅ and R ₆ designate a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R ₇ designates a methyl group, R ₈ designates a hydrogen atom.

Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV):
(IV)
in which

R ₉ designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

R ₁₀ is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R _9a )(R _10a )(R _11a )N-(CH ₂ ) ₃ , with R _9a , R _10a , R _11a , R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ , R ₁₃ and R ₁₄ , identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​ ​} in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:
(V)
in which :

R ₁₅ is chosen from C ₁ -C ₆ alkyl groups and C ₁ -C ₆ hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups;

R ₁₆ is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; the R ₂₀ groups which are C ₁ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,

R ₁₈ is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; the R ₂₂ groups which are C ₁ -C ₆ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;

R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₇ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;

r, s and t, identical or different, are integers valued from 2 to 6;

y is an integer from 1 to 10;

x and z, identical or different, are integers valued from 0 to 10;

X ^- is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;

provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R ₁₆ designates R ₂₀ and that when z is 0 then R ₁₈ designates R ₂₂ .

The R ₁₅ alkyl groups can be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R ₁₅ denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth 1 to 10.

When R ₁₆ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₀ group, it can be long and have 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₁₈ is a hydrocarbon R ₂₂ group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₁ -C ₂₁ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C ₁₁ -C alkyl and alkenyl groups. ₂₁ , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X ^- is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulfate, more particularly methyl sulfate. However, methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function can be used. The anion X ^- is even more particularly chloride or methyl sulfate.

It is possible to use more particularly in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (V) in which R ₁₅ denotes a methyl or ethyl group, x and y are equal to 1; z is equal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2;
R ₁₆ is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-, methyl, ethyl or C ₁₄ -C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups, the hydrogen atom;
R ₁₈ is chosen from the group R21-C(O)- and the hydrogen atom;
R ₁₇ , R ₁₉ and R ₂₁ , identical or different, are chosen from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C ₁₃ -C ₁₇ alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, of compounds of formula (V) such as the salts (notably chloride or methyl sulfate) of diacyloxyethyl-dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methyl-ammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl -dimethylammonium and their mixtures. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, they may be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids or on mixtures of C ₁₀ - fatty acids. C ₃₀ of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulfate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methyl, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

Such compounds are for example marketed under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWO-WITCO.

The hair composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180.

Behenoylhydroxypropyl-trimethylammonium chloride offered by KAO under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 can be used.

Preferably ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one usable ester function, it is preferred to use dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethyl-methylammonium salts.

The term “fatty amines” means a compound comprising at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, optionally (poly)oxyalkylenated, or their salts and comprising at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain, preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ .

Preferably, the fatty amines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

As fatty amines, we can cite amidoamines. The amidoamines according to the invention can be chosen from fatty amidoamines, the fatty chain being able to be carried by the amine group or by the amido group.

Amidoamine means a compound comprising at least one amide function and at least one primary, secondary or tertiary amine function.

By fatty amidoamine is meant an amidoamine comprising, in general, at least one C ₆ -C ₃₀ hydrocarbon chain. Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not quaternized.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

Among the fatty amidoamines useful according to the invention, mention may be made of the following amidoamines of formula (VI): RCONHR’’N(R’)₂(VI)
in which :
-R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C alkyl radical₅-VS₂₉, preferably in C₇-VS₂₃, linear or branched, or a C alkenyl radical₅-VS₂₉, preferably in C₇-VS₂₃linear or branched;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; And
- R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical .

The fatty amidoamines of formula (VI) are, for example, chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, in particular that marketed by the company INOLEX CHEMICAL COMPANY under the name LEXAMINE S13, isostearamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyl dimethylamine, lauramidopropyl dimethylamine , myristamidopropyl dimethylamine, behenamidopropyl dimethylamine, dilinoleamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, ricinoleamindopropyl dimethylamine, soyamidopropyl dimethylamine, avocadoamidopropyl dimethylamine, cocamidopropyl dimethylamine, minkamidopropyl dimethylamine, oatamidopropyl dimethylamine, sesamidopropyl dimethylamine, tallamidopropyl dimethyl amine , olivamidopropyl dimethylamine, palmitamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidoethyldiethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the fatty amidoamines are chosen from oleamidopropyl dimethylamine, stearamidopropyl dimethylamine, brassicamidopropyl dimethylamine and mixtures thereof.

The cationic surfactant(s) are preferably chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and their mixtures; even better among those of formula (II) above.

Preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) may be chosen from, alone or in a mixture, salts such as chlorides, bromides or methosulfates, of tetraalkylammonium such as, for example, the salts of dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium in which the alkyl group contains approximately 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular the salts of behenyltrimethylammonium, stearyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, dicetyldimethylammonium and benzyldimethylstearylammonium; dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium salts such as dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate; and their mixtures.

Even more preferably, they are chosen from cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention may comprise the cationic surfactant(s) in a total content which ranges from 0.1 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.2 to 8% by weight, better still from 0.3 to 7 % by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more nonionic surfactants.

Said nonionic surfactants can be chosen from:

- alcohols, alpha-diols and alkyl (C1-C20) phenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated and/or polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups being able to range from 1 to 100, the number of glycerol groups being able to range from 2 to 30; or these compounds comprising at least one fatty chain comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, in particular from 16 to 30 carbon atoms; in particular alcohols comprising at least one C8 to C40 alkyl chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, oxyethylenated comprising from 1 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, preferably from 2 to 50, more particularly from 2 to 40 moles of ethylene oxide and comprising one or two fatty chains;

- condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols;

- polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4;

- ethoxylated sorbitan fatty acid esters (or oxyethylenated sorbitan esters) preferably having from 2 to 40 ethylene oxide units,

- fatty acid esters of sucrose,

- esters of polyoxyalkylenated fatty acids, preferably polyoxyethylenated having from 2 to 150 moles of ethylene oxide including oxyethylenated vegetable oils,

- N-(C6-C24 alkyl)glucamine derivatives,

- amine oxides such as (C10-14 alkyl)amine oxides or N-(C10-C14 acyl)-aminopropylmorpholine oxides.

- nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type.

Nonionic surfactants of the alkyl (poly) glycoside type can be represented by the following general formula: R1O-(R2O)t-(G)v

in which:

- R1 represents a linear or branched alkyl or alkenyl radical comprising 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms, or an alkylphenyl radical whose linear or branched alkyl radical comprises 6 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular 8 to 18 carbon atoms;

- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- G represents a sugar unit comprising 5 to 6 carbon atoms,

- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 10, preferably from 0 to 4,

- v designates a value ranging from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4.

Preferably, the alkyl (poly) glycoside surfactants have the formula described above in which:

- R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched alkyl radical containing 8 to 18 carbon atoms,

- R2 represents an alkylene radical containing 2 to 4 carbon atoms,

- t designates a value ranging from 0 to 3, preferably equal to 0,

- G designates glucose, fructose or galactose, preferably glucose;

- the degree of polymerization, that is to say the value of v, which can range from 1 to 15, preferably from 1 to 4; the average degree of polymerization being more particularly between 1 and 2.

The glucosidic bonds between the sugar units are generally of type 1-6 or 1-4, preferably of type 1-4. Preferably, the alkyl(poly)glycoside surfactant is an alkyl(poly)glucoside surfactant. We particularly prefer C8/C16-(poly)glucosides 1,4, and in particular decylglucosides and caprylyl/capryl glucosides.

The oxyethylenated sorbitan esters which may be used in the context of the invention include in particular the oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C8-C30 fatty acids and of sorbitan, having from 2 to 40 oxide units. ethylene. The oxyethylenated derivatives of mono- and polyesters of C12-C24 fatty acids and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, are preferably used.

Such compounds are also known as polysorbates. They are, among others, marketed under the name TWEEN by the company UNIQEMA.

Mention may in particular be made of sorbitan oxyethylene mono-laurate at 4 EO, for example marketed under the name TWEEN 21, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-laurate at 20 EO, for example marketed under the name TWEEN 20, mono-palmitate sorbitan oxyethylene at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 40, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-stearate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 60, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-stearate at 4 EO e.g. e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 61, sorbitan oxyethylene tri-stearate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 65, sorbitan oxyethylene mono-oleate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 80 , sorbitan oxyethylene mono-oleate at 5 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 81, sorbitan oxyethylene tri-oleate at 20 EO e.g. marketed under the name TWEEN 85.

In the present presentation, and in a manner well known in itself, the term “compound with X OE” denotes an oxyethylenated compound comprising X oxyethylene units per molecule.

Preferably, the fatty acid of the oxyethylenated sorbitan ester is a saturated fatty acid, in particular C12-C24.

The preferred sorbitan esters are the oxyethylenated derivatives of C12-C24 fatty acid monoesters and sorbitan, having from 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units, more preferably 4 EO oxyethylene sorbitan monolaurate, the mono- oxyethylene sorbitan laurate at 20 EO, oxyethylenated sorbitan monostearate at 20 EO, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)(poly) glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C12-C24 fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the nonionic surfactant(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 8% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even better 0.2 to 2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Anionic surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more anionic surfactants.

By anionic surfactant is meant a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. Anionic surfactants are non-silicone.

In the present description, an entity is qualified as being "anionic" when it has at least one permanent negative charge or when it can be ionized into a negatively charged entity, under the conditions of use of the composition of the invention. (medium, pH for example) and not including a cationic charge.

The anionic surfactants can be sulfate, sulfonate and/or carboxylic (or carboxylate) surfactants. We can obviously use a mixture of these surfactants.

It is understood in this description that:

- the anionic carboxylate surfactants comprise at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ), and do not include either a sulfate function or a sulfonate function;

- the anionic sulfonate surfactants comprise at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ), and may optionally also comprise one or more carboxylate functions, but do not include a sulfate function; And

- the anionic sulfate surfactants comprise at least one sulfate function (-OSO3H or -OSO3-).

The anionic carboxylic surfactants likely to be used therefore contain at least one carboxylic or carboxylate function (-COOH or -COO ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: acylglycinates, acyllactylates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; alkylethercarboxylic acids, alkyl(C6-30 aryl)ethercarboxylic acids, alkyl-D-galactoside-uronic acids, alkylamidoethercarboxylic acids; as well as the salts of these compounds; the alkyl and/or acyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22 carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group; these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

It is also possible to use C6-C24 alkyl monoesters and polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids such as C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C6-C24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and polyglycoside sulfosuccinates. C6-C24 alkyl, and their salts.

Among the above carboxylic surfactants, mention may particularly be made of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, such as the compounds offered by the company KAO under the names AKYPO,

The polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids which can be used are preferably chosen from those of formula (1):

R _1' –(OC ₂ H ₄ ) _n' –OCH ₂ COOA (1)

in which :

- R _1' represents a linear or branched C6-C24 alkyl or alkenyl radical, an alkyl (C8-C9)phenyl radical, an R _2' CONH-CH2-CH2- radical with R _2' designating a linear alkyl or alkenyl radical or branched at C9-C21; preferably R _1' is a C8-C20, preferably C8-C18, alkyl radical;

- n' is an integer or decimal number (average value) varying from 2 to 24, preferably from 2 to 10,

- A denotes H, ammonium, Na, K, Li, Mg or a monoethanolamine or triethanolamine residue.

It is also possible to use mixtures of compounds of formula (1), in particular mixtures of compounds having different R _1' groups.

The particularly preferred polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(amido)ether carboxylic acids are those of formula (1) in which:

- R _1' denotes a linear or branched C8-C22 alkyl radical, in particular C10-C16, or even C12-C14, or an alkyl (C8-C9) phenyl radical;

- A designates a hydrogen or sodium atom, and

- n’ varies from 2 to 20, preferably from 2 to 10.

Even more preferably, compounds of formula (1) are used in which R _1' denotes a C12-C14 alkyl, cocoyl, oleyl, nonylphenyl or octylphenyl radical, A denotes a hydrogen or sodium atom and does not vary from 2 to 10.

Among the commercial products, we can preferably use the products sold by the company KAO under the names:

AKYPO® NP 70 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=7, A=H)

AKYPO® NP 40 (R ₁ = nonylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO®OP 40 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO® OP 80 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=8, A=H)

AKYPO® OP 190 (R ₁ = octylphenyl, n=19, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 38 (R ₁ =C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 38 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 45 CA (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 45 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=4.5, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 100 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 100 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=10, A=Na)

AKYPO® RLM 130 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=13, A=H)

AKYPO® RLM 160 NV (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=16, A=Na),

or by the company SANDOZ under the names:

SANDOPAN DTC-Acid (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=H)

SANDOPAN DTC (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=6, A=Na)

SANDOPAN LS 24 (R ₁ = C ₁₂ -C ₁₄ alkyl, n=12, A=Na)

SANDOPAN JA 36 (R ₁ = C ₁₃ alkyl, n=18, A=H),

and more particularly, the products sold under the following names:

AKYPO® RLM 45 (INCI: Laureth-5 carboxylic acid), AKYPO® RLM 100 and AKYPO® RLM 38.

Preferably, the anionic carboxylic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

- acylglutamates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as stearoylglutamates, and in particular disodium stearoylglutamate;

- acylsarcosinates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, such as palmitoylsarcosinates, and in particular sodium palmitoylsarcosinate;

- acyllactylates, in particular C12-C28, or even C14-C24, such as behe-noyllactylates, and in particular sodium behenoyllactylate;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, and in particular alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Preferably, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C ₆ -C ₂₄ ) ether carboxylic acids and their salts are used.

The anionic sulfonate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfonate function (-SO ₃ H or -SO ₃ ^– ). They can be chosen from the following compounds: the Alkylsulfonates, the AlkyLethersulfonates, the AlkyLamidesulfonates, the Alkylarylsulfonates, the Alpha-Olefonates, the Paraffinesulfonates, the Alkylsulfosuccinates, the Alkyléthersulfosuccinates, Alkylsulfoacetates, n-acyltaurates, acylisethiones; alkylsulfolaurates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfonate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20, in particular laurylsulfosuccinates.

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

The anionic sulfate surfactants that can be used contain at least one sulfate function (-OSO ₃ H or -OSO ₃ ^- ).

They can be chosen from the following compounds: alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkyl amido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; as well as the salts of these compounds;

the alkyl groups of these compounds comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 28, even better from 14 to 24, or even from 16 to 22, carbon atoms; the aryl group preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group;

these compounds being able to be polyoxyalkylenated, in particular polyoxyethylenated and then preferably comprising from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units, better still from 2 to 10 ethylene oxide units.

Preferably, the anionic sulfate surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture:

- alkyl sulfates, particularly C6-C24, or even C12-C20, and

- alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C6-C24, or even C12-C20, preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium, or amino alcohol.

When the anionic surfactant is in salt form, said salt can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as sodium or potassium salt, ammonium salts, salts of amines and in particular of amino alcohols, and alkaline earth metal salts such as magnesium salt.

As an example of amino alcohol salts, mention may be made of mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, mono-, di- or tri-isopropanolamine salts, 2-amino 2-methyl 1-propanol salts, 2- amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris(hydroxymethyl)amino methane.

Alkaline or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used, and in particular sodium or magnesium salts.

Preferably, the anionic surfactants are chosen from, alone or in mixture,

- C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, especially C12-C20; preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units;

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

- polyoxyalkylenated alkyl(C6-C24)amidoethercarboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene;

- C6-C24 acylglutamates, particularly C12-C20;

- C6-C24 acylglycinates, in particular C12-C20;

in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20 preferably comprising from 1 to 20 oxide units. ethylene; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol; as well as their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention can also be free (0%) of sulfated surfactants (sulfate free); in this case, it advantageously comprises one or more anionic surfactants chosen from, alone or in mixture,

- C6-C24 alkylsulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- C6-C24 olefinsulfonates, particularly C12-C20,

- C6-C24 alkylethersulfosuccinates, in particular C12-C20;

- (C6-C24) acylisethionates, preferably (C12-C18) acylisethionates,

- C6-C24 acylsarcosinates, particularly C12-C20;

- alkyl (C6-C24) ether carboxylates, preferably alkyl (C12-C20) ether carboxylates; in particular those comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

in particular in acid form or salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, ammonium or amino alcohol.

When present, the anionic surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, in particular being able to range from 1 to 28% by weight, in particular from 2 to 25% by weight, preferably from 3 to 23% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight, even better from 7 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Amphoteric surfactants

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more amphoteric surfactants.

Amphoteric surfactant means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The amphoteric surfactant(s) which may be used in the context of the invention are non-silicone.

Mention may be made in particular, alone or in a mixture, of alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )sulphobetaines, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ ) betaines and alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )-amidalkyl(C ₆ -C ₈ )sulfobetaines.

They may also be chosen from secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain comprising from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group. such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Among the derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, which can be used, as defined above, we can also cite the compounds of the following respective structures (A), (B) and (C):

(A) R _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N ⁺ (R _b )(R _c )-CH ₂ COO ^- , M ⁺ , X ^-

in which :

- R _a represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH, preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

- R _b represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group; And

- R _c represents a carboxymethyl group;

- M ⁺ represents a cationic counterion from an alkali, alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine, and

^- _{​ ​ ​ ​ ​} -C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or M ⁺ and X ^- are absent;

(B) R _a' -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N(B)(B')

in which :

- B represents the group -CH ₂ CH ₂ OX';

- B' represents the group -(CH ₂ ) _z Y', with z = 1 or 2;

- X' represents the group -CH ₂ COOH, -CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ COOH, CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOZ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z';

- Z' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular in C ₁₇ and its iso form, an unsaturated C ₁₇ group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, acid lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

As an example, we can cite cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

(C) R _a'' -NHCH(Y'')-(CH ₂ ) _n CONH(CH ₂ ) _n' -N(R _d )(R _e )

in which :

- Y'' represents the group –COOH, -COOZ'', -CH ₂ -CH(OH)SO ₃ H or the group CH ₂ CH(OH)SO ₃ -Z'';

- R _d and R _e , independently of each other, represent a C ₁ to C ₄ alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

- Z'' represents a cationic counterion from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion from an organic amine;

- R _a'' represents a C ₁₀ to C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a'' -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

- n and n’, independently of each other, designate an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the amphoteric surfactants, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures are preferably used. , and the compounds of formula (C) such as the salts, in particular of sodium, of diethylaminopropyl laurylaminosuccinamate (INCI name: sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide).

Preferably, the amphoteric surfactants are chosen from alkyl(C8-C20)betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl(C ₈ -C ₂₀ )amidoalkyl(C ₃ -C ₈ )betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and their mixtures.

When present, the amphoteric surfactant(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention in a total quantity which may range from 0.01 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 12% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.8 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more anionic surfactants and one or more amphoteric surfactants.

In particular, it may include:

- one or more anionic surfactants chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; in particular in the form of alkali or alkaline earth metal salts, ammonium or amino alcohol; And

- one or more amphoteric surfactants chosen from alkyl (C8-C20) betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof.

Non-silicone fatty substances

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise one or more non-silicone fatty substances, which may be chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance not containing Si-O bonds.

Solid fatty substance means a fatty substance having a melting point greater than 25°C, preferably greater than or equal to 28°C, preferably greater than or equal to 30°C at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa).

Advantageously, the solid fatty substances which can be used in the present invention are neither (poly)oxyalkylenated nor (poly)glycerolated.

The solid fatty substances can be chosen from solid fatty acids, solid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, waxes and ceramides, and mixtures thereof.

By “fatty acids” is meant a long-chain carboxylic acid comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. The solid fatty acids according to the invention preferably comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and better still from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. These fatty acids are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. The solid fatty acids which can be used in the present invention are in particular chosen from myristic acid, cetyl acid, stearyl acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, lauric acid, behenic acid, and their mixtures. Said fatty acids are different from the hydroxylated (poly)carboxylic acids, comprising 2 to 8 carbon atoms previously described.

By “fatty alcohol” is meant a long-chain aliphatic alcohol comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and comprising at least one OH hydroxyl group. These fatty alcohols are neither oxyalkylenated nor glycerolated. Solid fatty alcohols can be saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are of structure R-OH with R denoting a linear alkyl group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, comprising from 8 to 40, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, better still from 12 to 30 , even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The solid fatty alcohols capable of being used are preferably chosen from saturated (mono)alcohols, linear or branched, preferably linear and saturated, comprising from 8 to 40 carbon atoms, better still from 10 to 30, or even from 12 to 24 atoms, even better 14 to 22 carbon atoms.

The solid fatty alcohols that can be used can be chosen from, alone or in a mixture:

- myristic or myristyl alcohol (or 1-tetradecanol);

- cetyl alcohol (or 1-hexadecanol);

- stearyl alcohol (or 1-octadecanol);

- arachidyl alcohol (or 1-eicosanol);

- behenyl alcohol (or 1-docosanol);

- lignoceryl alcohol (or 1-tetracosanol);

- cerylic alcohol (or 1-hexacosanol);

- montanylic alcohol (or 1-octacosanol);

- myricylic alcohol (or 1-triacontanol).

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, myristic alcohol, arachidyl alcohol and their mixtures, such as cetylstearyl or cetearyl alcohol. Particularly preferably, the solid fatty alcohol is chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or their mixtures such as cetylstearyl alcohol, preferably the solid fatty alcohol is cetylstearyl alcohol.

The solid esters of fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol that may be used are preferably chosen from esters derived from C9-C26 carboxylic fatty acid and/or C9-C26 fatty alcohol.

Preferably, these solid fatty esters are saturated, linear or branched carboxylic acid esters, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and saturated monoalcohol, linear or branched, comprising at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The saturated carboxylic acids can optionally be hydroxylated, and are preferably monocarboxylic acids.

Esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and C1-C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and di-, tri-, tetra-alcohols can also be used. or pentahydroxylated at C2-C26.

Mention may in particular be made of octyldodecyl behenate, isocetyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl oleate, stearyl stearate, hexyl, octyl stearate, myristyl stearate, cetyl stearate, stearyl stearate, octyl pelargonate, cetyl myristate, myristyl myristate, stearyl myristate, diethyl sebacate, diisopropyl sebacate, diisopropyl adipate, di n-propyl adipate, dioctyl adipate, dioctyl maleate, octyl palmitate, myristyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, stearyl palmitate , and their mixtures.

Preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from C9-C26 alkyl palmitates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl palmitates; C9-C26 alkyl myristates such as cetyl myristate, stearyl myristate and myristyl myristate; C9-C26 alkyl stearates, in particular myristyl, cetyl and stearyl stearates; and their mixtures.

Particularly preferably, the solid fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters are chosen from myristyl stearate, myristyl palmitate, and mixtures thereof.

A wax, within the meaning of the present invention, is a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting temperature greater than approximately 40°C and which can go up to at 200°C, and presenting an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. Generally speaking, the size of the wax crystals is such that the crystals diffract and/or diffuse light, giving the composition which comprises them a more or less opaque cloudy appearance. By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by reducing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, we obtain a recrystallization of the wax, detectable microscopically and macroscopically (opalescence).

In particular, the waxes suitable for the invention can be chosen from waxes of animal, vegetable, mineral origin, non-silicone synthetic waxes and their mixtures.

We can in particular cite hydrocarbon waxes, such as beeswax or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina), lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, spermaceti; cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, pine wax Berry, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax, flower absolute waxes; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, petroleum jelly, lignite and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters.

We can also cite microcrystalline waxes in C2 to C60, such as Microwax HW.

We can also cite polyethylene wax PM 500 marketed under the reference Permalen 50-L polyethylene.

We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, at C8 to C32. Among these, we can in particular cite isomerized jojoba oil, such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil, in particular that manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, l hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di-(1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate, in particular that sold under the name of Hest 2T-4S® by the HETERENE company.

We can also use waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM.

As a wax, it is also possible to use a C20 to C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture. Such a wax is sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®” and “Kester Wax K 80 P®” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

It is also possible to use microwaxes in the compositions of the invention; we can cite in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroCare 350® by the company MICRO POWDERS, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the name MicroEase 114S® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes composed a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those marketed under the names Micro Care 300® and 310® by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax , such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325® by the company MICRO POWDERS, polyethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Micropoly 200®, 220®, 220L® and 250S® by the company MICRO POWDERS and polytetrafluoroethylene microwaxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519® and 519 L® by the company MICRO POWDERS.

The waxes are preferably chosen from mineral waxes such as paraffin, vaseline, lignite or ozokerite wax; vegetable waxes such as cocoa butter, shea butter or cork or sugar cane fiber waxes, olive tree wax, rice bran wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax, Ouricoury wax , Carnauba wax, Candelila wax, Alfa wax, or absolute flower waxes such as blackcurrant flower essential wax sold by the company BERTIN (France); waxes of animal origin such as beeswax or modified beewax (cerabellina), spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives; microcrystalline waxes; and their mixtures.

Ceramides or ceramide analogues such as glycoceramides, capable of being used in the compositions according to the invention, are known; we can cite in particular the ceramides of classes I, II, III and V according to the DAWNING classification.

The ceramides or their analogues which may be used preferably correspond to the following formula:

in which :

- R1 designates an alkyl group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, derived from C14-C30 fatty acids, this group being able to be substituted by a hydroxyl group in the alpha position, or a hydroxyl group in the omega position esterified by a fatty acid saturated or unsaturated in C16-C30;

- R2 denotes a hydrogen atom, a (glycosyl)n group, a (galactosyl)m group or a sulfogalactosyl group, in which n is an integer varying from 1 to 4 and m is an integer varying from 1 to 8;

- R3 designates a C15-C26 hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated in the alpha position, this group may be substituted by one or more C1-C14 alkyl groups;

it being understood that in the case of natural ceramides or glycoceramides, R3 can also designate a C15-C26 alpha-hydroxyalkyl group, the hydroxyl group optionally being esterified with a C16-C30 alpha-hydroxyacid.

Preferably, ceramides are used for which R1 designates a saturated or unsaturated alkyl group derived from C14-C30 fatty acids; R2 represents a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl group; and R3 denotes a group -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3.

The more particularly preferred ceramides are the compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl derived from C16-C22 fatty acids; R2 denotes a hydrogen atom and R3 denotes a saturated or unsaturated C15 linear group.

It is also possible to use compounds for which R1 denotes a saturated or unsaturated alkyl radical derived from C12-C22 fatty acids; R2 designates a galactosyl or sulfogalactosyl radical and R3 designates a saturated or unsaturated C12-C22 hydrocarbon radical and preferably a -CH=CH-(CH2)12-CH3 group.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may also be made of 2-N-linoleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-oleoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-palmitoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-behenoylamino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-[2-hydroxy-palmitoyl]-amino-octadecane-1,3-diol; 2-N-stearoyl amino-octadecane-1,3,4 triol and in particular N-stearoyl phytosphingosine, 2-N-palmitoylamino-hexadecane-1,3-diol, N-linoleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine, N-palmitoyldihydrosphingosine, N-stearoyldihydrosphingosine, and N-behenoyldihydrosphingosine, N-docosanoyl N-methyl-D-glucamine, N-(2-hydroxyethyl)-N-(3-cetyloxy-2-hydroxypropyl)amide cetyl acid and bis-(N-hydroxyethyl N-cetyl) malonamide; and their mixtures. Preferably, N-oleoyldihydrosphingosine will be used.

As liquid fatty substances which may be used, mention may be made of liquid hydrocarbons, liquid fatty alcohols, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, triglyceride type oils of vegetable origin or synthetic, mineral oils, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid fatty substances have a melting point less than or equal to 25°C, preferably less than or equal to 20°C, at atmospheric pressure (1,013.105 Pa). Advantageously, the liquid fatty substances are not (poly)oxyalkylenated.

It is recalled that alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly present at least one hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 40, better still from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by a or several hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The liquid hydrocarbons can be C6 to C18, and be linear, branched, possibly cyclic; they are preferably chosen from C8-C16 alkanes, in particular C10-C14. By way of example, we can cite hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures.

Liquid hydrocarbons can also be chosen from those comprising more than 16 carbon atoms, which can be linear or branched, of mineral or synthetic origin; we can cite paraffin or vaseline oils, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

The triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin can be chosen from liquid triglycerides of fatty acids comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as the triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower oils, corn oils, soy, squash, grape seeds, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, castor, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic/capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil, and mixtures thereof.

The liquid fatty alcohols can be chosen from saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, preferably unsaturated or branched alcohols comprising from 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Mention may be made, for example, of octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, and mixtures thereof.

Liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, different from the triglycerides mentioned above, include in particular esters of saturated or unsaturated aliphatic mono or polyacids, linear at C1 to C26 or branched at C3 to C26 and of mono or saturated or unsaturated aliphatic polyalcohols, linear at C1 to C26 or branched at C3 to C26, the total carbon number of the esters being greater than or equal to 6, more advantageously greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters, we can cite dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isocetyl behenate; isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; isostearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate; octyl octanoate; decyl oleate; isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate; acetyl methyl ricinoleate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isonate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, such as ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate; alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; isobutyl stearate; 2-hexyldecyl laurate, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, ethyl or isopropyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate of ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof.

Still within the framework of this variant, esters of C4 to C22 di or tricarboxylic acids and C1 to C22 alcohols and esters of mono-, di-, or tricarboxylic acids and alcohols can also be used. di-, tri-, tetra- or pentahydroxy at C2 to C26.

We can in particular cite: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; polyethylene glycol distearates, and mixtures thereof.

The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, sugar esters and diesters of C6 to C30 fatty acids, preferably C12 to C22. It is recalled that the term “sugar” means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone functions, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

As suitable sugars, we can cite for example sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. particularly alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucose.

The esters of sugars and fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of esters of sugars described above and of C6 to C30, preferably C12 to C22, linear or branched, saturated fatty acids. or unsaturated. If they are unsaturated, these compounds can include one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

The esters according to this variant can also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetra-esters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters can be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonate, or their mixtures such as in particular mixed oleo-palmitate, oleo-stearate, palmito-stearate esters.

More particularly, mono- and diesters are used and in particular mono- or di-oleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, of sucrose, glucose or methylglucose, and their mixtures.

As an example, we can cite the product sold under the name Glucate® DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate.

Preferably, a liquid ester of monoacid and monoalcohol will be used.

Preferably, the non-silicone fatty substances are chosen from triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, liquid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols other than triglycerides, liquid C6-C18 hydrocarbons, fatty alcohols. solids, liquid fatty alcohols, solid esters of fatty acids and/or fatty alcohols, and their mixtures; best among solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty substance(s) in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18% by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise the non-silicone fatty substance(s) chosen from solid fatty alcohols, solid fatty esters and mixtures thereof, in a total quantity ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight, better still from 1 to 18 % by weight, preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, better still from 3 to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Associative polymers

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more associative polymers. Preferably, the associative polymers are nonionic.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "polymer" means any compound resulting from polycondensation polymerization or radical polymerization of monomers of which at least one is different from an alkylene oxide and a monofunctional compound of formula RX, R designating a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl group, optionally hydroxylated, and X designating a carboxylic acid, amine, amide, hydroxyl, ester group. In particular, all compounds resulting solely from the simple condensation of an alkylene oxide on a fatty alcohol, a fatty ester, a fatty acid, a fatty amide, a fatty amine are excluded.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “associative polymer” means an amphiphilic polymer capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with itself or with other molecules. It generally includes in its chemical structure, at least one hydrophilic zone, or group, and at least one hydrophobic zone, or group.

The associative polymers according to the invention are polymers comprising at least one fatty chain comprising 8 to 30 carbon atoms and whose molecules are capable, in the formulation medium, of associating with each other or with molecules of other compounds. Preferably, the fatty chain contains 10 to 30 carbon atoms.

A particular case of associative polymers are amphiphilic polymers, that is to say polymers comprising one or more hydrophilic parts or groups which make them soluble in water and one or more hydrophobic zones or groups (comprising at least one chain fatty) by which polymers interact and come together with each other or with other molecules.

By "hydrophobic group" is meant a group or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched which may contain one or more heteroatoms such as P, O, N, S, or a radical with a perfluorinated or silicone chain. When it designates a hydrocarbon group, the hydrophobic group comprises at least 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrophobic hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. For example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol or from a polyalkylenated fatty alcohol such as steareth-100. It can also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

By “fatty chain” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an alkyl or alkenyl chain, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 atoms. of carbon.

By “fatty” compound, such as for example a fatty alcohol, a fatty acid or a fatty amide, is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a compound comprising in its main chain at least one hydrocarbon chain, saturated or unsaturated, such as alkyl or alkenyl, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and better still from 10 to 22 carbon atoms.

Among the anionic associative polymers, we can in particular cite:

- (A) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit and at least one fatty chain allyl ether unit; and more particularly those:
the hydrophilic unit of which is constituted by an ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer, more particularly still by a vinyl carboxylic acid and very particularly by an acrylic acid or a methacrylic acid or mixtures thereof; And
whose fatty chain allyl ether unit corresponds to the monomer of formula (I') following: CH ₂ =C(R')-CH ₂ OB _n R
in which R' denotes H or CH ₃ , B denotes the ethyleneoxy radical, n ranges from 0 to 100, and R denotes a hydrocarbon radical chosen from alkyl, arylalkyl, aryl, alkylaryl and cycloalkyl radicals, comprising from 8 to 30 atoms of carbon, preferably 10 to 24, and even more particularly 12 to 18 carbon atoms. Preferably, R' denotes H, n = 10 and R denotes a stearyl radical (C ₁₈ ).

Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from 20 to 60% by weight of acrylic acid and/or methacrylic acid, from 5 to 60% by weight of C alkyl (meth)acrylates are particularly preferred. ₁ -C ₄ , from 2 to 50% by weight of fatty chain allyl ether of formula (I'), and from 0 to 1% by weight of a crosslinking agent which is preferably a copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer , such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or methylene-bis-acrylamide.

We particularly prefer crosslinked terpolymers of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate, polyethylene glycol (10 EO) and stearyl alcohol ether (Steareth 10), in particular that sold by the company BASF under the name SALCARE SC 80 which is a 30% aqueous emulsion of a crosslinked terpolymer of methacrylic acid, ethyl acrylate and steareth-10-allyl ether (40/50/10), with the INCI name Steareth-10 Allyl Ether/Acrylates Copolymer.

- (B) those comprising at least one hydrophilic unit of the olefinic unsaturated carboxylic acid type, and at least one hydrophobic unit of the (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) alkyl ester type of unsaturated carboxylic acid.

Preferably, these polymers are chosen from those whose hydrophilic unit of unsaturated olefinic carboxylic acid type corresponds to the monomer of formula (II) below:

in which R ₁ denotes H, CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , and whose hydrophobic unit of alkyl ester type (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acid corresponds to the monomer of formula (III) following:

in which R ₂ denotes H, CH ₃ or C ₂ H ₅ , and R ₃ denotes a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ , preferably C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ , alkyl radical.

Alkyl esters (C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ ) of unsaturated carboxylic acids according to the invention include, for example, lauryl acrylate, stearyl acrylate, decyl acrylate, isodecyl acrylate , dodecyl acrylate, and the corresponding methacrylates, lauryl methacrylate, stearyl methacrylate, decyl methacrylate, isodecyl methacrylate and dodecyl methacrylate.

Among these anionic associative polymers, polymers formed from a mixture of monomers comprising: (i) (meth)acrylic acid, (ii) an ester of formula (III) described above and in which R ₂ denotes H or CH ₃ , R ₃ denotes an alkyl radical having 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and optionally (iii) a crosslinking agent, which is a well-known copolymerizable polyethylenic unsaturated monomer, such as diallyl phthalate, allyl (meth)acrylate, divinylbenzene, (poly)ethylene glycol dimethacrylate, and methylene-bis-acrylamide.

Among this type of anionic associative polymers, those consisting of 95 to 60% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 4 to 40% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ alkyl acrylate, and 0 are more particularly preferred. at 6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer, or those consisting of 98 to 96% by weight of (meth)acrylic acid, 1 to 4% by weight of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ and 0 alkyl acrylate, 1 to 0.6% by weight of crosslinking polymerizable monomer such as those described above.

We can in particular cite the products sold by the company LUBRIZOL under the trade names PEMULEN TR1, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL ETD 2020, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 20, CARBOPOL ULTREZ 21, with the name INCI Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, and again more preferably PEMULEN TR1 and CARBOPOL 1382.

- (C) maleic anhydride/C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin/alkyl maleate terpolymers such as the maleic anhydride/C ₃₀ -C ₃₈ α-olefin/isopropyl maleate copolymer, in particular that sold under the name PERFORMA V 1608 by the company NEWPHASE TECHNOLOGIES (INCI name: C30-38 Olefin/Isopropyl Maleate/MA Copolymer).

- (D) acrylic terpolymers comprising (a) 20 to 70% by weight of a carboxylic acid with α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated, (b) 20 to 80% by weight of a monomer with α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated non-surfactant other than (a), and (c) 0.5 to 60% by weight of a non-ionic mono-urethane which is the reaction product of a monohydric surfactant with a monoethylenically unsaturated monoisocyanate.
Mention may in particular be made of the methacrylic acid/methyl acrylate/dimethyl metaisopropenyl benzyl isocyanate of ethoxylated behenyl alcohol terpolymer (40 EO), particularly in a 25% aqueous dispersion such as the product VISCOPHOBE DB1000 sold by the company AMERCHOL (DOW CHEMICAL) of INCI name Polyacrylate-3.

- (E) copolymers comprising among their monomers (i) a carboxylic acid with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation, such as acrylic or methacrylic acid, and (ii) a carboxylic acid ester with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation , in particular acrylic or methacrylic, and fatty alcohol in particular oxyalkylenated C8-C32, in particular comprising 2 to 100 moles of ethylene oxide, in particular 4 to 50, or even 10 to 40 EO.

Mention may in particular be made as monomers of behenyl or stearyl (meth)acrylate, comprising 10 to 40 EO, in particular 18 to 30 EO.

Preferably these compounds also comprise as monomer an ester of α, β-monoethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid and C1-C4 alcohol, in particular a C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate.

Preferably, these copolymers comprise at least one (meth)acrylic acid monomer, at least one C1-C4 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer and at least one C8-C32 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, oxyethylenated comprising 2 to 100 moles EO, in particular 4 to 50 EO, or even 10 to 40 EO.

As examples, we can cite ACULYN 22 sold by the company ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated stearyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Steareth-20 Methacrylate Copolymer), or also ACULYN 28 sold by ROHM and HAAS, which is a methacrylic acid/ethyl acrylate/oxyalkylenated behenyl methacrylate terpolymer (INCI name Acrylates/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Copolymer), as well as NOVETHIX L-10 POLYMER sold by Lubrizol.

- (F) associative polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer with a sulfonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form and comprising at least one hydrophobic part.

Among the polymers of this type, we can cite more especially
-crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or salt) and from 40 to 85% by weight of units (C8-C16) alkyl(meth)acrylate relative to the polymer, as described in application EP-A-750899
-terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90 mole% of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10 mole% of AMPS units and from 5 to 80 mole% of n-(C6-C8)alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in patent US5089578
- copolymers of totally neutralized AMPS and dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide
- copolymers consisting of AMPS units and steareth-25 methacrylate units such as ARISTOFLEX HMS ^® marketed by the company CLARIANT, (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / Steareth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) or beheneth-25 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX HMB ^® (INCI name Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/Beheneth-25 Methacrylate Crosspolymer) marketed by the company CLARIANT, or steareth-8 methacrylate, such as ARISTOFLEX SNC ^® from CLARIANT (INCI name ammonium acryloyldimethyltaurate / steareth-8 methacrylate copolymer).

- (G) associative polymers comprising at least one vinyllactam monomer and at least one carboxylic acid monomer with α, β-monoethylenic unsaturation such as the terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl methacrylate , for example lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE ^® LM (INCI name VP/Acrylates/Lauryl Methacrylate Copolymer).

Among the cationic associative polymers, we can cite:
- (A') cationic associative polyurethanes, which can be represented by the following general formula (Ia): RX-(P) _n -[L-(Y) _m ] _r -L'-(P') _p -X '-R'
in which :
R and R', identical or different, represent a hydrophobic group or a hydrogen atom;
X and X', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group, or the group L";
L, L' and L", identical or different, represent a group derived from a diisocyanate;
P and P', identical or different, represent a group comprising an amine function carrying or not a hydrophobic group;
Y represents a hydrophilic group;
r is an integer included between 1 and 100, preferably between 1 and 50 inclusive and in particular between 1 and 25 inclusive,
n, m, and p are each independently of the others between 0 and 1000 inclusive;
the molecule containing at least one protonated or quaternized amine function and at least one hydrophobic group.

Preferably, the only hydrophobic groups are the groups R and R' at the chain ends.

A preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) described above in which:
R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X, X' each represent a group L'',
n and p are integers which are inclusively between 1 and 1000 and
L, L', L'', P, P', Y and m have the meaning indicated above.

Another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
n=p=0 (the polymers do not contain units derived from an amine-functional monomer, incorporated into the polymer during polycondensation),
the protonated amine functions result from the hydrolysis of excess isocyanate functions at the end of the chain, followed by the alkylation of the primary amine functions formed by alkylating agents with a hydrophobic group, that is to say compounds of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

Yet another preferred family of cationic associative polyurethanes is that corresponding to formula (Ia) above in which:
R and R' both independently represent a hydrophobic group,
X and X' both independently represent a group comprising a quaternary amine,
n = p = 0, and
L, L', Y and m have the meanings indicated above.

The number average molecular mass (Mn) of the cationic associative polyurethanes is preferably between 400 and 500,000 inclusive, in particular between 1000 and 400,000 inclusive and ideally between 1000 and 300,000 inclusive.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound.

For example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon polymer such as, for example, polybutadiene.

When X and/or X' designate a group comprising a tertiary or quaternary amine, X and/or X' may represent one of the following formulas:
in which :
R ₂ represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, or an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;
R ₁ and R ₃ , identical or different, designate a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₃₀ alkyl or alkenyl radical, an aryl radical, at least one of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S, O, P;
A ^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide, or a mesylate.

The groups L, L' and L" represent a group of formula:
in which :
Z represents –O-, -S- or –NH-; And
R ₄ represents an alkylene radical having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, comprising or not a saturated or unsaturated ring, an arylene radical, one or more of the carbon atoms being able to be replaced by a heteroatom chosen from N, S , O and P.

The P and P' groups, comprising an amine function, can represent at least one of the following formulas:

in which :
R ₅ and R ₇ have the same meanings as R ₂ defined previously;
R ₆ , R ₈ and R ₉ have the same meanings as R ₁ and R ₃ defined previously;
R ₁₀ represents an alkylene group, linear or branched, optionally unsaturated and which may contain one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P,
and A ^- is a physiologically acceptable anionic counterion such as halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate.

With regard to the meaning of Y, the term hydrophilic group means a water-soluble polymeric or non-polymeric group.

By way of example, we can cite, when it is not a question of polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The cationic associative polyurethanes of formula (Ia) according to the invention are formed from diisocyanates and different compounds having labile hydrogen functions. The labile hydrogen functions can be alcohol, primary or secondary amine or thiol functions giving, after reaction with the diisocyanate functions, polyurethanes, polyureas and polythioureas respectively. The term "polyurethanes" of the present invention encompasses these three types of polymers, namely polyurethanes themselves, polyureas and polythioureas as well as copolymers thereof.

A first type of compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a compound comprising at least one amine function unit. This compound can be multifunctional, but preferably the compound is difunctional, that is to say that according to a preferred embodiment, this compound comprises two labile hydrogen atoms carried for example by a hydroxyl function, primary amine, secondary amine or thiol. It is also possible to use a mixture of multifunctional and difunctional compounds in which the percentage of multifunctional compounds is low.

As indicated previously, this compound may contain more than one amine-functional unit. It is then a polymer carrying a repetition of the amine function unit.

This type of compounds can be represented by one of the following formulas:
HZ-(P) _n -ZH, or HZ-(P') _p -ZH, in which Z, P, P', n and p are as defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of N methyldiethanolamine, N-tert-butyl-diethanolamine and N-sulfoethyldiethanolamine.

The second compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a diisocyanate corresponding to the formula: O=C=NR ₄ -N=C=O in which R ₄ is defined above.

By way of example, mention may be made of methylenediphenyl-diisocyanate, methylenecyclohexanediisocyanate, isophoronediisocyanate, toluenediisocyanate, naphthalenediisocyanate, butanediisocyanate, hexanediisocyanate.

A third compound used in the preparation of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) is a hydrophobic compound intended to form the terminal hydrophobic groups of the polymer of formula (Ia).

This compound consists of a hydrophobic group and a labile hydrogen function, for example a hydroxyl, primary or secondary amine, or thiol function.

For example, this compound may be a fatty alcohol, such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. When this compound comprises a polymer chain, it may for example be alpha-hydroxy hydrogenated polybutadiene.

The hydrophobic group of the polyurethane of formula (Ia) can also result from the quaternization reaction of the tertiary amine of the compound comprising at least one tertiary amine unit. Thus, the hydrophobic group is introduced by the quaternizing agent. This quaternizing agent is a compound of type RQ or R'Q, in which R and R' are as defined above and Q designates a leaving group such as a halide, a sulfate, etc.

The cationic associative polyurethane may further comprise a hydrophilic sequence. This sequence is provided by a fourth type of compound used in the preparation of the polymer. This compound may be multifunctional. It is preferably difunctional. We can also have a mixture where the percentage of multifunctional compound is low.

The labile hydrogen functions are alcohol, primary or secondary amine, or thiol functions. This compound may be a polymer terminated at the ends of the chains by one of these labile hydrogen functions.

By way of example, we can cite, when it is not a question of polymers, ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol and propylene glycol.

When it is a hydrophilic polymer, mention may be made, by way of example, of polyethers, sulfonated polyesters, sulfonated polyamides, or a mixture of these polymers. Preferably, the hydrophilic compound is a polyether and in particular a poly(ethylene oxide) or poly(propylene oxide).

The hydrophilic group denoted Y in formula (Ia) is optional. Indeed, the units with quaternary or protonated amine function can be sufficient to provide the solubility or hydrodispersibility necessary for this type of polymer in an aqueous solution.

Although the presence of a hydrophilic Y group is optional, cationic associative polyurethanes comprising such a group are preferred.

- (B') quaternized cellulose derivatives, and in particular:
- i) quaternized celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures thereof ;

- ii) quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, such as linear or branched alkyl, linear or branched arylalkyl, linear or branched alkylaryl groups comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, or mixtures of these ;

- iii) hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib):

in which :
R and R', identical or different, represent an ammonium group R _a R _b R _c N ⁺ -, Q ^- in which R _a , R _b , R _c , identical or different represent a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, linear or branched, in C ₁ -C ₃₀ preferably C ₁ -C ₂₀ , such as methyl or dodecyl; and Q- represents an anionic counterion such as a halide such as a chloride or bromide; And
n, x and y, identical or different, represent an integer between 1 and 10000.

The alkyl radicals carried by the celluloses i) or quaternized hydroxyethylcelluloses ii) above preferably contain from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. Aryl radicals preferably designate phenyl, benzyl, naphthyl or anthryl groups.

As examples of quaternized alkylhydroxyethyl celluloses with C ₈ -C ₃₀ fatty chains, we can indicate the product QUATRISOFT LM 200 ^® , marketed by the company AMERCHOL/DOW CHEMICAL (INCI name Polyquaternium-24) and the CRODACEL QM ^® products (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Cocodimonium Chloride), CRODACEL QL ^® (C ₁₂ alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Lauryldimonium Chloride) and CRODACEL QS ^® (C18 alkyl) (INCI name PG-Hydroxyethylcellulose Stearyldimonium Chloride) marketed by the company CRODA.

Mention may also be made of hydroxyethylcelluloses of formula (Ib) in which R represents trimethylammonium halide and R' represents dimethyldodecylammonium halide more preferably R represents trimethylammonium chloride Cl ^- , (CH ₃ ) ₃ N ⁺ - and R ' represents dimethyl dodecylammonium chloride Cl ^- , (CH ₃ ) ₂ (C ₁₂ H ₂₅ )N ⁺ -. This type of polymer is known under the trade names SOFTCAT POLYMER SL® such as SL-100, SL-60, SL-30 and SL-5 from the company AMERCHOL /DOW CHEMICAL with the INCI name Polyquaternium-67.

More particularly the polymers of formula (Ib) are those whose viscosity is inclusively between 2000 and 3000 cPs. Preferably the viscosity is inclusively between 2700 and 2800 cPs. Typically SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-5 has a viscosity of 2500 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-30 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs, SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-60 has a viscosity of 2700 cPs and SOFTCAT POLYMER SL-100 has a viscosity of 2800 cps.

- (C') cationic polyvinyllactams, in particular those comprising:
- a) at least one monomer of vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam type;
- b) at least one monomer of the following structures (Ic) or (IIc):

in which :
X designates an oxygen atom or an NR6 radical,
R1 and R6 designate, independently of each other, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical,
R2 designates a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical,
R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom, a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical or a radical of formula (IIIc):

in which :
Y, Y1 and Y2 designate, independently of each other, a linear or branched C2-C16 alkylene radical,
R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, or a linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl radical or a linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl radical,
R8 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical,
p, q and r designate, independently of each other, either the value zero or the value 1,
m and n designate, independently of each other, an integer ranging from 0 to 100 inclusively,
x designates an integer ranging from 1 to 100 inclusively,
Z designates an anionic counterion of an organic or mineral acid, such as a halide such as chloride or bromide or mesylate;
provided that :
- at least one of the substituents R3, R4, R5 or R8 designates a linear or branched C9-C30 alkyl radical,
- if m or n is different from zero, then q is equal to 1,
- if m or n are equal to zero, then p or q is equal to 0.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked and can also be block polymers.

Preferably the counterion Z- of the monomers of formula (Ic) is chosen from halide ions, phosphate ions, methosulfate ion, tosylate ion.

Preferably R3, R4 and R5 designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C30 alkyl radical.

More preferably, monomer b) is a monomer of formula (Ic) for which, preferably, m and n are equal to zero.

The vinyllactam or alkylvinyllactam monomer is preferably a compound of structure (IVc):

in which s designates an integer ranging from 3 to 6; R9 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical and R10 designates a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical, provided that at least one of the radicals R9 and R10 denotes a hydrogen atom.

Even more preferably, the monomer (IVc) is vinylpyrrolidone.

The cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention may also contain one or more additional monomers, preferably cationic or non-ionic.

As particularly preferred compounds, mention may be made of the following terpolymers comprising at least:
a)-a monomer of formula (IVc),
b)-a monomer of formula (Ic) in which p=1, q=0, R3 and R4 designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C1-C5 alkyl radical and R5 designates a linear or branched C9-C24 alkyl radical and
c)-a monomer of formula (IIc) in which R3 and R4 designate, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C1-C5 alkyl radical.

Even more preferably, terpolymers comprising, by weight, 40 to 95% of monomer (a), 0.1 to 55% of monomer (c) and 0.25 to 50% of monomer (b) will be used. Such polymers are described in particular in patent application WO-00/68282.

As cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers according to the invention, the following are used in particular:
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/dodecyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide/cocoyldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium tosylate terpolymers,
- vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropylmethacrylamide / tosylate or lauryldimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymers.

The vinylpyrrolidone/dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide/lauryl dimethylmethacrylamidopropylammonium chloride terpolymer is notably offered by the company ISP under the names Styleze W10 ^® or Styleze W20L ^® (INCI name Polyquaternium-55).

The molecular mass by weight (Mw) of the cationic poly(vinyllactam) polymers is preferably between 500 and 20,000,000, more particularly between 200,000 and 2,000,000 and preferably between 400,000 and 800,000.

- (D') cationic polymers obtained by polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising one or more vinyl monomers substituted by one or more amino groups, one or more hydrophobic nonionic vinyl monomers, and one or more associative vinyl monomers, such as described in patent application WO2004/024779.

Among these polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the products of the polymerization of a mixture of monomers comprising:
- a di(C1-C4 alkyl)amino(C1-C6 alkyl) methacrylate,
- one or more C1-C30 alkyl esters and (meth)acrylic acid,
- a polyethoxylated C10-C30 alkyl methacrylate (20-25 moles of ethylene oxide unit),
- a 30/5 polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol allyl ether,
- a hydroxy methacrylate (C2-C6 alkyl), and
- an ethylene glycol dimethacrylate.

Such a polymer is for example the compound marketed by the company LUBRIZOL under the name CARBOPOL AQUA CC ^® and which corresponds to the INCI name Polyacrylate-1 crosspolymer.

The nonionic associative polymers are preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture:

(1) Celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28; preferably from:
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as alkyl, arylalkyl, alkylaryl groups, or mixtures thereof, and in which the alkyl groups are preferably in C ₈ -C ₂₂ , such as cetylhydroxyethyl cellulose marketed in particular under the reference NATROSOL PLUS GRADE 330 CS (C ₁₆ alkyls) sold by the company Ashland, or the product Polysurf 67CS sold by the company Ashland,
- hydroxyethylcelluloses modified by polyalkylene glycol alkyl phenol ether groups, such as the product AMERCELL POLYMER HM-1500 (polyethylene glycol (15) nonyl phenol ether) sold by the company AMERCHOL,
- and their mixtures.

(2) Hydroxypropyl guars modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better C14-C28, such as the product ESAFLOR HM 22 (C ₂₂ alkyl chain) sold by the company LAMBERTI, the products RE210-18 (C ₁₄ alkyl chain) and RE205-1 (C ₂₀ alkyl chain) sold by the company RHODIA.

(3) Copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and hydrophobic monomers with fatty chains, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28. We can cite as an example:
- the vinylpyrrolidone/hexadecene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V216 or GANEX V216 products sold by the company ISP
- the vinylpyrrolidone/eicosene copolymer and in particular the ANTARON V220 or GANEX V220 products sold by the company ISP

(4) Copolymers of methacrylates or acrylates of C ₁ -C ₆ alkyls and amphiphilic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28 alkyl, such as for example the acrylate copolymer methyl/oxyethylenated stearyl acrylate sold by the company GOLDSCHMIDT under the name ANTIL 208.

(5) Copolymers of hydrophilic methacrylates or acrylates and hydrophobic monomers comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as for example the polyethylene glycol methacrylate/lauryl methacrylate copolymer.

(6) Polyurethane polyethers comprising in their chain, both hydrophilic sequences of a most often polyoxyethylenated nature and hydrophobic sequences which can be aliphatic chains alone and/or cycloaliphatic and/or aromatic chains.

(7) Polymers with an ether aminoplast skeleton having at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better still C14-C28, such as the PURE THIX compounds offered by the company SUD-CHEMIE.

Preferably, the polyurethane polyethers comprise at least two lipophilic hydrocarbon chains, having from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, separated by a hydrophilic sequence, the hydrocarbon chains possibly being pendant chains or chains at the end of the hydrophilic sequence. In particular, it is possible that one or more pendant chains are provided. In addition, the polymer may comprise a hydrocarbon chain at one end or at both ends of a hydrophilic sequence.

Polyurethane polyethers can be multiblocked, particularly in triblock form. The hydrophobic blocks can be at each end of the chain (for example: triblock copolymer with a hydrophilic central block) or distributed both at the ends and in the chain (multiblock copolymer for example). These same polymers can also be grafts or stars.

The nonionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain can be triblock copolymers whose hydrophilic sequence is a polyoxyethylenated chain comprising from 50 to 1000 oxyethylenated groups. Non-ionic polyurethane polyethers have a urethane bond between the hydrophilic sequences, hence the origin of the name.

By extension, non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain also include those whose hydrophilic sequences are linked to the lipophilic sequences by other chemical bonds.

As examples of non-ionic polyurethane polyethers with a fatty chain which can be used in the invention, one can also use Rhéolate 205® with a urea function sold by the company RHEOX or even Rhéolates® 208, 204 or 212, as well as Acrysol RM 184®. We can also cite the product ELFACOS T210® with a C12-14 alkyl chain and the product ELFACOS T212® with a C18 alkyl chain from AKZO. The product DW 1206B® from ROHM & HAAS with a C20 alkyl chain and a urethane bond, offered at 20% dry matter in water, can also be used.

We can also use solutions or dispersions of these polymers, particularly in water or in a hydroalcoholic medium. By way of example, such polymers include RHEOLATE® 255, RHEOLATE® 278 and RHEOLATE® 244 sold by the company RHEOX. You can also use the product DW 1206F and DW 1206J offered by the company ROHM & HAAS.

The polyurethane polyethers which can be used according to the invention are in particular those described in the article by G. Fonnum, J. Bakke and Fk. Hansen - Colloid Polym. Sci. 271, 380,389 (1993).

Even more particularly, it is preferred to use a polyether polyurethane capable of being obtained by polycondensation of at least three compounds comprising (i) at least one polyethylene glycol comprising from 150 to 180 moles of ethylene oxide, (ii) stearyl alcohol or decyl alcohol and (iii) at least one diisocyanate.

Such polyether polyurethanes are sold in particular by the company ROHM & HAAS under the names ACULYN 46® and ACULYN 44® [ACULYN 46® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, stearyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexyl-isocyanate) (SMDI), at 15% by weight in a matrix of maltodextrin (4%) and water (81%); ACULYN 44® is a polyethylene glycol polycondensate containing 150 or 180 moles of ethylene oxide, decyl alcohol and methylene bis(4-cyclohexylisocyanate) (SMDI), at 35% by weight in a mixture of propylene glycol ( 39%) and water (26%)].

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more nonionic associative polymers, preferably chosen from polyurethane polyethers and/or chosen from celluloses modified by groups comprising at least one fatty chain, in particular C8-C32 alkyl, better in C14-C28.

Preferably, the associative polymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the nonionic associative polymer(s) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably 0. 1 to 1.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Polyol

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more polyols.

By “polyol” within the meaning of the present invention, is meant an organic compound consisting of a hydrocarbon chain optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms and carrying at least two free hydroxyl groups (-OH) preferably carried by different carbon atoms, this compound being able to be cyclic or acyclic, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

More particularly, the polyol(s) comprise from 2 to 30 hydroxy groups, better still from 2 to 10 hydroxy groups, preferably from 2 to 3 hydroxy groups. Preferably, they comprise from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, better still from 2 to 6 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, the polyol(s) are chosen from diglycerin, glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1 ,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols, sorbitol, sugars such as glucose and mixtures thereof; preferably from glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, 1,3-butylene glycol, pentane-1,2-diol, octane-1,2-diol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol, ethylene glycol, sorbitol and mixtures thereof; and even better among glycerin, propylene glycol, propane-1,3-diol, sorbitol and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polyol(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 45% by weight, better still ranging from 0.1 to 12% by weight, even better from 0.2 to 6% by weight. weight, preferably ranging from 0.3 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Thickeners

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more thickening agents, in particular an aqueous phase thickener (or hydrophilic thickener).

By “thickening agent”, “thickener” or “aqueous phase thickener”, we mean a compound which increases by at least 20 cps (20 mPa.s), preferably by at least 50 cps (50 mPa.s) , the viscosity of the aqueous phase into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight, the viscosity being measured at 25°C, 1 atm, at a shear rate of 1s ^-1 (the viscosity can be measured using a cone/plane viscometer, Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).

The thickening agent is different from the surfactants, polymers, silicones, fatty substances and polyols described above. In particular, the thickening agent is different from the above associative polymers.

The thickening agent can advantageously be chosen from non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof. Better still, the thickening agent can advantageously be chosen from anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric, non-associative thickening polymers with sugar units; anionic, non-ionic or amphoteric, non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units, and mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term sugar unit means an oxygenated hydrocarbon compound which has several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contains at least 4 carbon atoms.

The sugar units can possibly be modified by substitution, and/or by oxidation and/or by dehydration.

The sugar units which can be used in the composition of the aqueous phase thickening polymers of the invention are preferably derived from the following sugars: glucose; galactose; arabinose; rhamnosis; mannose; xylose; fucose; anhydrogalactose; galacturonic acid; glucuronic acid; mannuronic acid; galactose sulfate; anhydrogalactose sulfate and fructose.

Mention may in particular be made, as non-associative thickening polymers with sugar motifs, of native gums such as:

a) exudates from trees or shrubs such as:

- gum arabic (branched polymer of galactose, arabinose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- ghatti gum (polymer from arabinose, galactose, mannose, xylose and glucuronic acid);

- karaya gum (polymer made from galacturonic acid, galactose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- tragacanth (or tragacanth) gum (polymer of galacturonic acid, galactose, fucose, xylose and arabinose);

b) gums from algae such as:

- agar (polymer derived from galactose and anhydrogalactose);

- alginates (polymers of mannuronic acid and glucuronic acid);

- carrageenans and furcellerans (polymers of galactose sulfate and anhydrogalactose sulfate);

c) gums from seeds or tubers such as:

- guar gum (mannose and galactose polymer);

- locust bean gum (mannose and galactose polymer);

- fenugreek gum (mannose and galactose polymer);

- tamarind gum (polymer of galactose, xylose and glucose);

- konjac gum (glucose and mannose polymer);

d) microbial gums such as:

- xanthan gum (polymer of glucose, mannose acetate, mannose/pyruvic acid and glucuronic acid);

- gellan gum (polymer of partially acylated glucose, rhamnose and glucuronic acid);

- scleroglucan gum (glucose polymer);

e) plant extracts such as:

- cellulose (glucose polymer);

- starch (glucose polymer) and

- inulin.

These polymers can be modified physically or chemically.

As a physical treatment, we can cite temperature.

As chemical treatments, we can cite esterification, etherification, amidification and oxidation reactions. These treatments make it possible to produce polymers which may in particular be nonionic, anionic or amphoteric.

Preferably, these chemical or physical treatments are applied to guar gums, locust bean gums, starches and celluloses.

The nonionic guar gums which can be used according to the invention can be modified by C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxylakyl groups.

Among the C ₁ -C ₆ (poly)hydroxyalkyl groups, we can mention by way of example, the hydroxymethyl, hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl and hydroxybutyl groups.

These guar gums are well known from the state of the art and can for example be prepared by reacting corresponding alkene oxides such as for example propylene oxides with guar gum so as to obtain a guar gum. modified by hydroxypropyl groups.

The hydroxyalkylation rate preferably varies from 0.4 to 1.2 and corresponds to the number of alkylene oxide molecules consumed by the number of free hydroxyl functions present on the guar gum.

Such non-ionic guar gums possibly modified by hydroxyalkyl groups are for example sold under the trade names JAGUAR HP8, JAGUAR HP60 and JAGUAR HP120 by the company RHODIA CHIMIE.

The starch molecules which can be used in the present invention may have cereals or even tubers as botanical origins. Thus, the starches are for example chosen from corn, rice, cassava, barley, potato, wheat, sorghum and pea starches.

Starches can be modified chemically or physically: in particular by one or more of the following reactions: pregelatinization, oxidation, crosslinking, esterification, etherification, amidification, heat treatments.

Distarch phosphates or compounds rich in distarch phosphate will preferably be used, such as the product offered under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (gelatinized cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by the company AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA from NATIONAL STARCH (gelatinized corn distarch phosphate).

According to the invention, it is also possible to use amphoteric starches, these amphoteric starches comprise one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be linked to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites; preferably they are linked to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulfate type and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

Starch molecules can come from all plant sources of starch such as corn, potatoes, oats, rice, tapioca, sorghum, barley or wheat. The hydrolysates of the starches mentioned above can also be used. The starch preferably comes from potatoes.

The non-associative thickening polymers of the invention may be cellulosic polymers not comprising a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty chain in their structure.

By “cellulosic” polymer is meant according to the invention any polysaccharide compound having in its structure sequences of glucose residues united by β-1,4 bonds; in addition to unsubstituted celluloses, cellulose derivatives different from the polymers previously described can be anionic, amphoteric or non-ionic.

Thus, the cellulose polymers which can be used according to the invention can be chosen from unsubstituted celluloses, including in a microcrystalline form, and cellulose ethers.

Among these cellulose polymers, we distinguish cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the cellulose esters, we find inorganic cellulose esters (cellulose nitrates, sulfates or phosphates, etc.), organic cellulose esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, amidopropionates, acetatebutyrates, acetatepropionates or cellulose acetatetrimellitates for example) and mixed esters. organic/inorganic cellulose such as acetatebutyratesulfates and cellulose acetatepropionatesulfates. Among the ether esters of cellulose, we can cite hydroxypropylmethylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulfates.

Among the non-ionic cellulose ethers without a C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty chain, ie "non-associative", we can cite (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses (for example Ethocel standard 100 Premium from DOW CHEMICAL); (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses (for example Natrosol 250 HHR offered by AQUALON) and hydroxypropylcelluloses (for example Klucel EF from AQUALON); mixed (poly)hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl-(C ₁ -C ₄ )alkylcelluloses such as hydroxypropyl-methylcelluloses (for example Methocel E4M from DOW CHEMICAL), hydroxyethyl-methylcelluloses, hydroxyethyl-ethylcelluloses ( for example Bermocoll E 481 FQ from AKZO NOBEL) and hydroxybutyl-methylcelluloses.

Among the anionic cellulose ethers without a fatty chain, mention may be made of (poly) carboxy(C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses (for example Blanose 7M from the company AQUALON) and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts.

Among the non-associative thickening polymers without sugar units which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid; 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid homopolymers and their acrylamide copolymers, alone or in mixtures, said polymers possibly being crosslinked or not.

A first family of suitable non-associative thickening polymers is represented by acrylic acid homopolymers, preferably crosslinked.

Among the homopolymers of this type, we can cite those crosslinked with an allyl ether of alcohol of the sugar series, such as for example the products sold under the names CARBOPOLS 980, 981, 954, 2984 and 5984 by the company NOVEON or the products sold under the names SYNTHALEN M and SYNTHALEN K by the company 3 VSA. These polymers have the name INCI Carbomer.

The non-associative thickening polymers can also be crosslinked (meth)acrylic acid copolymers such as the polymer sold under the name AQUA SF1 by the company NOVEON.

The non-associative thickening polymers can also be chosen from crosslinked homopolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid and their crosslinked acrylamide copolymers.

Among the crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulfonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, we can cite in particular the product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 and we can refer to refer to this document for what concerns these polymers.

Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be chosen from polymers not comprising sugar units, in particular from thickening polymers with acrylic or methacrylic units, non-associative, crosslinked or not; in particular among homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, preferably among crosslinked homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid, alone or in mixtures; even better among crosslinked acrylic acid homopolymers, in particular crosslinked with a pentaerythritol allyl ether, a sucrose allyl ether, or a propylene allyl ether.

Preferably, the thickening agent(s) may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 4% by weight, even better from 0.05 to 2%. by weight, preferably ranging from 0.1 to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Other ingredients

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises water, which may be present in an amount of 65 to 98% by weight, better still 70 to 97% by weight, preferably 75 to 95% by weight, relative to the weight. total composition.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, one or more organic solvents miscible with water, different from the polyols previously described, in particular chosen from non-aromatic C1-C6 alcohols such as ethanol and/or l isopropanol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol and/or phenylethyl alcohol; and their mixtures. When present, said organic solvent(s) generally represent 0.1 to 15% by weight, preferably 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still 1 to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the composition. capillary.

The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise one or more additives, usually used in the field, in particular chosen from cationic polymers different from the polymers previously described, anti-dandruff agents, anti-seborrheic agents, vitamins and pro-vitamins including panthenol, sun filters, sequestering agents, plasticizing agents, solubilizing agents, acidifying agents, opacifying or pearlizing agents, anti-oxidant agents, hydroxy acids, perfumes, preservative agents, dyes and fillers.
Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these possible additives in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the addition(s) envisaged. The above additives can generally be present in a quantity comprised for each of them between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The invention also relates to a method of cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a step of application to the hair of the composition described above.

This cosmetic hair treatment process is more particularly a hair care process, in particular a hair cleaning and/or conditioning process.

The application of the composition according to the invention can be carried out on damp hair or on dry hair, preferably on damp hair.

The application step can be followed by an application time of the composition on the hair, which can range from 1 to 15 minutes, preferably from 2 to 10 minutes.

The application step according to the invention can be followed, after the possible exposure time, by a step of rinsing the composition, for example with water. Preferably, the application step is followed by a rinsing step.

The application step can be followed, after a possible exposure time and/or a possible rinsing step, by a drying step, for example using a hairdryer. The hair can also be left to dry, especially in the open air.

The application step according to the invention can also be followed by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair composition according to the invention is used as a pre-shampoo.

The application step according to the invention can be preceded by a step of washing the hair, for example with a shampoo; this is particularly the case when the hair composition according to the invention is used as a conditioner or hair mask.

Methods for determining amine number, weight average molecular weight and viscosity

A/ Amine index

The amine number (or amine content) can be determined as follows, based on the ASTM standard Determination of Amine content (tertiary amine) of Amino alkyl silanes and siloxane fluids.

The amine number is determined by acid-base titration and is defined as the quantity (in milli-equivalent or meq) of perchloric acid necessary to neutralize 1 g of amine in the sample.

Procedure:

- weigh 10 g of sample in a 500 ml Erlenmeyer

- add 50 ml of toluene, mix until the sample dissolves, then add 125 ml of acetic acid

- with stirring, add 5 drops of crystal violet indicator (at 0.5% w/v in acetic acid, i.e. 0.5 g of crystal violet in 100 ml of acetic acid);

- titrate with 0.1 N HClO ₄ perchloric acid (in acetic acid) until the green color disappears; for information, color changes are made in the following order: purple ➔ blue ➔ green ➔ yellow

This gives the quantity of perchloric acid necessary to neutralize the 10 g of sample.

The calculation of the amine index (AI) is done as follows:

Amine index (meq/g) = [(ml HClO ₄ ) x (N HClO ₄ )] / sample weight (g)

In the present case (with N = 0.1 N and sample weight = 10 g), we obtain the following simplified equation: IA (meq/g) = [(ml HClO ₄ ) x 0.1] / 10 = ( ml HClO ₄ ) / 100

B/ Weight average molecular mass (Mw)

The weight average molecular mass can be determined by any known method, in particular by dynamic light scattering or by gel permeation chromatography. It is generally expressed in Dalton.

C/ Dynamic viscosity

Dynamic viscosity can be determined using the following method.

Measuring conditions: 25 ± 2°C, 1 atm., relative humidity 50 ± 5%

Brookfield Viscometer: This is a precise torque meter that is driven at a discrete rotational speed. The torque measurement system, which consists of a calibrated beryllium-copper spring connecting the drive mechanism to a rotating cone, detects the resistance to rotation caused by the presence of a sample of fluid between the cone and a stationary flat plate. The resistance to rotation of the cone produces a torque that is proportional to the shear stress in the fluid.

Sample size: 500mL in a beaker.

Needles (spindles) used, depending on the viscosity range to be measured:

Spindle n°1: for viscosities below 950 mPa.s

Spindle n°2: 950-3800 mPa.s

Spindle n°3: 3800-4750 mPa.s

Spindle n°4: 4750-9500 mPa.s

We will start measuring the viscosity with needle no. 1; if the viscosity is outside the range for this needle, the next one will be tried, and so on, until an absolute viscosity value is obtained. We will take as the viscosity value the value obtained after the needle has rotated for two minutes.

The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature. The quantities are indicated, unless otherwise indicated, as a mass percentage of active ingredient (MA) relative to the total weight of the composition.

In the examples which follow, the compound called AMODIMETHICONE according to the invention is an amino silicone which corresponds to the formula:

in which R=R’=R’’= methyl and A = -CH2-CH2-CH2-, with m=1.4-13, n = 400-600 and n/m = 45-300.

Its amine index (AI) is between 0.1 and 0.16 meq/g and its weight average molecular mass (Mw) is between 35,000 and 45,000.

Example 1
Composition A according to the invention and comparative composition A' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients A (Invention) A’ (comparative) BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.4 2.4 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3 3 CETYL ESTERS 1 1 GLYCERIN 2 2 AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 0.2 - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.625 meq/g and Mw = 25,000) - 0.2 DIMETHICONE (XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60000 cst) 0.1 0.1 Conservatives Qs qs pH agent Qs pH 4.1 Qs pH 4.1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as conditioner; we see that the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to provide conditioning to the hair, in particular a smooth feel and coating.

The sensory performance provided by composition A according to the invention is evaluated, on damp hair and dried hair, in comparison with that provided by comparative composition A'.

The evaluation is carried out on strands of hair sensitized by a bleaching treatment. The locks are previously cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP CAMOMILLE) at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, rinsed and dried.

We then apply a shampoo to the strands (Total Repair 5 ELSEVE – L'OREAL PARIS) at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, knead and lather then rinse the strands with water for 15 seconds ( flow rate = 300 l/h, water temperature 35°C).

On the washed and still wet strands, the care composition A or A' is applied, at a rate of 0.45g/g of hair; leave it on for 5 minutes then rinse the strands with water for 10 seconds (flow rate = 300 l/h, temperature 35°C). The evaluation is carried out on damp hair.

Then we dry the strands using a hair dryer and we carry out the evaluation on dry hair.

The following criteria are evaluated:

- on damp hair: smooth feel and coating

- on dry hair: smooth touch

The evaluation is done blindly, by 6 evaluators, who assign a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very efficient), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

Assessment of smoothness to the touch: the assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the ends. The more uniform the hair is, homogeneous from root to tip, the less roughness it has, the less it catches the fingers, the smoother it is to the touch.

Evaluation of the coating: the evaluator takes the lock of hair in the hand, starts from the root, and slides to the ends. The more deposit you feel on the fiber, the better the coating.

We obtain the following results (average of scores):

HAS HAS' Wet hair Smooth to the touch 4.1 ± 0.2 2.7 ± 0.3 Coating 4.0 ± 0 2.9 ± 0.4 Dry hair Smooth to the touch 4.1 ± 0.2 3.3 ± 0.4

It is noted that the hair treated according to the treatment method according to the invention has significantly superior cosmetic performance in comparison with that treated with the comparative composition, in particular with an improved smoothness to the touch, both on damp hair and on dry hair. , as well as with a more present coating. The hair therefore appears more regular, free of its rough edges and therefore repaired.

Example 2
Composition B according to the invention and comparative composition B' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients B (Invention) B’ (comparative) BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 2.4 2.4 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3 3 CETYL ESTERS 1 1 GLYCERIN 2 2 AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 1 - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.3 meq/g and Mw = 10,000 - 20,000) - 1 DIMETHICONE (XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60000 cst) 0.4 0.4 Conservatives Qs qs pH agent Qs pH 4.1 Qs pH 4.1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as conditioner; we see that the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to provide conditioning to the hair, in particular a smooth and soft touch, as well as regular coating, from root to tip.

According to a protocol identical to that of Example 1, the sensory performance on dry hair, provided by composition B in comparison with composition B', is evaluated.

We evaluate the following criterion:

- on dry hair: smooth touch

The evaluation is done blindly, by 4 evaluators, who assign a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very efficient), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

We obtain the following results (average of scores):

B B’ Dry hair Smooth to the touch 4.0 ± 0.5 2.3 ± 0.6

It is noted that the hair treated according to the process of the invention has significantly superior cosmetic performance in comparison with that treated with the comparative composition, in particular with an improved smoothness to the touch. The hair appears more homogeneous from root to tip, with a softer touch result.

Example 3
Composition C according to the invention and comparative composition C' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients C (Invention) It’ (comparative) CETRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 1.2 1.2 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 3.9 3.9 GLYCERIN 3 3 AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 0.5 - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.625 meq/g and Mw = 25,000) - 0.5 DIMETHICONE (XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60000 cst) 0.1 0.1 Conservatives Qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as conditioner, to condition the hair.

The compositions are tested on strands of natural Caucasian hair, weighing 2.7 g and 27 cm in length.

First, the strands are cleaned using a standard silicone-free shampoo (DOP Chamomile), at a rate of 0.4 g/g hair. The shampoo is kneaded on the strand to make it lather, before an application time of 15 seconds, then a rinsing step with water for 10 seconds (flow rate: 300 l/h, temperature: 35°C).

Secondly, the composition C or C' to be tested is applied to damp hair at a rate of 0.4 g/g hair, before an application time of 2 minutes followed by rinsing with water for 15 seconds (flow rate: 300 l/h, temperature: 35°C).

Finally, the locks are dried for 30 minutes in an oven at 60°C.

The standard shampoo application cycle + composition C or C’ + drying in an oven is repeated 4 additional times.

At the end of the ^5th cycle, the deposition of silicone on the hair is quantified by X-ray fluorescence spectrometry via measuring the mass concentration of silicon element on the hair fiber.

The quantity of silicon naturally present in untreated hair is subtracted from the measurement (i.e. silicon deposit = content measured on treated hair – content measured on untreated hair).

We obtain the following results:

VS VS' Silicon deposition on wick (µg/g) 385 223 Standard deviation 30 2

It can be seen that the treatment method according to the invention allows a deposition of silicone on the hair that is significantly greater than that obtained with a comparative composition, comprising a different amino silicone.

Example 4
Composition D according to the invention and comparative composition D' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients D (Invention) D’ (comparative) BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3.2 3.2 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 7 CETYL ESTERS 1.5 1.5 GLYCERIN 3 3 AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 0.2 - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.3 meq/g and Mw = 10,000 - 20,000) - 0.2 DIMETHICONE (XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60000 cst) 0.1 0.1 Conservatives Qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as hair masks; we see that the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to provide a smooth feel and a coating to the hair.

The sensory performance provided by composition D according to the invention is evaluated, on damp hair and dried hair, in comparison with that provided by comparative composition D'.

The evaluation is carried out on strands of hair sensitized by a bleaching treatment, previously cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP CAMOMILLE), rinsed and dried, in a manner similar to example 1.

We then apply a shampoo to the strands (Total Repair 5 ELSEVE – L'OREAL PARIS) at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, knead and lather then rinse the strands with water for 15 seconds ( flow rate = 300 l/h, water temperature 35°C).

On washed and still wet strands, apply care composition D or D’, at a rate of 0.45g/g of hair; leave it on for 5 minutes then rinse the strands with water for 10 seconds (flow rate = 300 l/h, temperature 35°C). The evaluation is carried out on damp hair.

Then we dry the strands using a hair dryer and we carry out the evaluation on dry hair.

The following criteria are evaluated:

- on damp hair: coating

- on dry hair: smooth touch and coating

The evaluation is done blindly, by 6 evaluators, who assign a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very efficient), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

We obtain the following results (average of scores):

D From Wet hair Coating 4.0 ± 0 3.5 ± 0.3 Dry hair Smooth to the touch 4.0 ± 0 3.0 ± 0.5 Coating 4.0 ± 0 3.2 ± 0.4

It is noted that the hair treated according to the treatment method of the invention presents significantly superior cosmetic performance in comparison with that treated with the comparative composition, in particular superior cosmetic repair benefits. Wet hair is more coated. After drying, hair is further treated with an improved level of straightening and more coated hair.

Example 5
Composition E according to the invention and comparative composition E' were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients E (Invention) E’ (comparative) BEHENTRIMONIUM CHLORIDE 3.2 3.2 CETEARYL ALCOHOL 7 7 PEG-150/DECYL ALCOHOL/SMDI COPOLYMER 1.5 1.5 GLYCERIN 3 3 AMODIMETHICONE (Invention) 1 - AMODIMETHICONE (IA = 0.625 meq/g and Mw = 25,000) - 1 DIMETHICONE (XIAMETER PMX-200 Silicone Fluid 60000 cst) 0.4 0.4 Conservatives Qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as hair masks; we see that the composition according to the invention makes it possible in particular to provide a smooth feel and a coating to the hair.

The sensory performance provided by composition E according to the invention is evaluated, on damp hair and dried hair, in comparison with that provided by comparative composition E’.

The following criteria are evaluated:

- on damp hair: smooth touch

- on dry hair: coating

The evaluation is done blindly, by 4 evaluators, who assign a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very efficient), in steps of 0.5, on the criterion tested.

We obtain the following results (average):

E E' Wet hair Smooth to the touch 4.75 ± 0.30 3.75 ± 0.65 Dry hair Coating 4.5 ± 0.25 3.7 ± 0.4

It can be seen that the hair treated according to the treatment method of the invention has superior cosmetic performance in terms of smooth feel and coating, in comparison with that treated with the comparative composition.

Example 6
Composition F according to the invention and comparative compositions F1 and F2 were prepared from the following ingredients (% MA):

Ingredients F F1 F2 Sodium cocoyl isethionate 9.0 9.0 9.0 Disodium laureth sulfosuccinate 7.3 7.3 7.3 Sodium lauroyl sarcosinate 2.2 2.2 2.2 Sodium lauryl sulfoacetate 2.8 2.8 2.8 Cocamidopropyl betaine 0.9 0.9 0.9 Cocobetaine 0.7 0.7 0.7 Decyl glucoside 1 1 1 PPG-5-Ceteth-20 1 1 1 Divinyldimethicone/dimethicone copolymer 0.6 0.6 0.6 Glycerin 2 2 2 Glycol distearate 3.6 3.6 3.6 Polyquaternium-7 0.45 0.45 0.45 Polyquaternium-10 0.4 0.4 0.4 Carbomer 0.4 0.4 0.4 NaCl 0.3 0.3 0.3 Propylene glycol 0.3 0.3 0.3 Amodimethicone (Invention) 0.5 - - Amodimethicone (AI = 0.625 meq/g and Mw = 25,000) - 0.5 - Amodimethicone (AI = 0.3 meq/g and Mw = 10,000 – 20,000) - - 0.5 Conservatives Qs Qs qs Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Hair compositions are obtained which can be used as shampoos.

It can be seen that the composition according to the invention makes it possible to provide good care properties, in particular easier detangling and a smooth feel.

The sensory performance provided by the composition according to the invention is evaluated, on damp hair and dried hair, in comparison with those provided by the comparative compositions.

The evaluation is carried out on strands of hair sensitized by a bleaching treatment. The locks are previously cleaned with a standard shampoo (DOP CAMOMILLE) at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, rinsed and dried.

The shampoo to be tested is then applied to the strands at a rate of 0.3 g/g of hair, kneaded and lathered then the strands are rinsed with water for 15 seconds (flow rate = 300 l/h, temperature of water 35°C). The evaluation is carried out on damp hair.

Then we dry the strands using a hairdryer and we carry out the evaluation on dry hair.

The following criteria are evaluated:

- on damp hair: detangling and smooth feel

The evaluation is done blindly, by 6 evaluators for the smooth touch, and by 2 evaluators for the detangling, who assign a score ranging from 0 (no performance) to 5 (very efficient), in steps of 0.5 , on the criterion tested.

Assessment of smoothness to the touch: the assessor takes a lock of hair at the root and slides it between the fingers along the entire length of the lock to the ends. The more uniform the hair is, homogeneous from root to tip, the less roughness it has, the less it catches the fingers, the smoother it is to the touch.

Evaluation of detangling: detangling is evaluated using a comb that the evaluator slides from the root to the tip. The easier the comb glides, the better the detangling.

We obtain the following results:

F F1 F2 Wet hair Detangling 2.0 ± 0 0.3 ± 0.4 1.5 ± 0 Smooth touch 3.0 ± 0 1.8 ± 0.4 1.0 ± 0.6

It can be seen that the hair treated according to the composition according to the invention presents cosmetic performances in terms of ease of detangling and smooth feel, which are significantly superior in comparison to those treated with the comparative compositions.

Claims (18)

Cosmetic hair care composition comprising:
- one or more amino silicones of formula (I):
(I)
in which :
- R, identical or different, represents a methyl group, a hydroxy radical or an alkoxy group comprising 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R' represents a methyl group or a hydroxy radical;
- A is a divalent alkylene group, linear or branched, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms;
the aminated silicone having an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.29 meq/g and a weight average molecular weight (Mw) ranging from 10,000 to 100,000; And
- one or more silicones different from the amino silicones of formula (I). Composition according to claim 1, in which the aminated silicone is of formula (I) in which:
- R, identical or different, represent a methyl group and/or a hydroxy radical; better still the two R radicals are identical and represent a methyl group or a hydroxy radical, even better a methyl radical; and or
- R' represents a methyl group; and or
- A is a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; better a linear group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ -). Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aminated silicone of formula (I) has an amine index ranging from 0.1 to 0.25 meq/g, better still ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g. g, even better ranging from 0.1 to 0.16 meq/g. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aminated silicone of formula (I) has a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 20,000 to 70,000, better still from 25,000 to 50,000, even better from 35,000 at 45,000. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aminated silicone is of formula (I) in which m is between 1.4 and 13, better still between 1.4 and 9, even better between 1.5 and 5; and the n/m ratio is between 45 and 330, better between 100 and 300; and advantageously n is between 400 and 600. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amino silicones of formula (I):
(I)
in which :
- R, identical, and R' represent a methyl group,
- A is a divalent, linear or branched alkylene group, comprising 3 or 4 carbon atoms; preferably a linear divalent alkylene group comprising 3 carbon atoms (-CH2CH2CH2-),
the aminated silicone has an amine number ranging from 0.1 to 0.19 meq/g and a weight average molecular mass (Mw) ranging from 25,000 to 50,000;
preferably, m is between 1.4 and 13, the ratio n/m is between 45 and 300 and n can be between 400 and 600. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the aminated silicone of formula (I) has a dynamic viscosity, measured at 25°C, 1 atm, ranging from 2 to 8 Pa.s (2000-8000 cps), better 3 to 6 Pa.s (3000-6000 cps), even better 3 to 5 Pa.s. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the amino silicone(s) of formula (I) in a total content ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, in particular from 0.002 to 5% by weight, better still from 0.005 to 3% by weight , even better from 0.01 to 2.5% by weight, preferably from 0.02 to 2% by weight, better from 0.05 to 1.5% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 1.2% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone(s) other than the aminated silicones of formula (I) are chosen from, alone or in a mixture, aminated silicones and non-aminated silicones. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which the silicone(s) other than the aminated silicones of formula (I) are chosen from alone or in a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-aminated silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes in particularly polydimethylsiloxanes with terminal trimethylsilyl groups; and/or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as their mixtures. Composition according to one of the preceding claims comprising the silicone(s) different from the amino silicones of formula (I), in a total content ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better still ranging from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising the additional silicone(s) chosen from, alone or as a mixture, non-volatile liquid non-amine silicones, and in particular polydialkylsiloxanes and more particularly polydimethylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl terminal groups; and/or non-volatile liquid amino silicones, such as amodimethicones, aminopropyldimethicones and bis-aminopropyldimethicones; as well as their mixtures; in a total content preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, better ranging from 0.02 to 1% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.05 to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more cationic surfactants, in particular chosen from, alone or in mixture, the following compounds:
- compounds corresponding to the following general formula (II):
(II)
in which :
X^-is an anion chosen in particular from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)- or alkyl(C₁-VS₄)aryl-sulfonates;
R groups₁to R₄, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic, linear or branched group, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, at least one of the groups R₁to R₄designating an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; aliphatic groups which may contain heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens;
- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as those of formula (III):
(III)
in which R₅represents an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R₆represents a hydrogen atom, a C alkyl group₁-VS₄or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R₇represents a C alkyl group₁-VS₄,R₈represents a hydrogen atom, a C alkyl group₁-VS₄,^-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulfates, alkyl- or alkylaryl-sulfonates whose alkyl and aryl groups preferably comprise respectively from 1 to 20 carbon atoms and from 6 to 30 carbon atoms.
- quaternary di- or tri-ammonium salts in particular of formula (IV):
(IV)
in which
R₉designates an alkyl radical comprising approximately 16 to 30 carbon atoms, optionally hydroxylated and/or optionally interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,
R₁₀is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group (R_9a)(R_10a)(R_11a)N-(CH₂)₃, with R_9a,R_10a,R_11a,R₁₁,R₁₂,R₁₃and R₁₄, identical or different, chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl radical containing 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and
X^-is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)sulfates, alkyl(C₁-VS₄)sulfonates and alkyl(C₁-VS₄)aryl-sulfonates, in particular methylsulfate and ethylsulfate.
- quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of formula (V) below:
(V)
in which :
R₁₅is chosen from C alkyl groups₁-VS₆and C hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups₁-VS₆;
R₁₆is chosen from the group R19-C(O)-; R groups₂₀which are hydrocarbon groups in C₁-VS₂₂, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, the hydrogen atom,
R₁₈is chosen from the group R21-C(O)-; R groups₂₂which are hydrocarbon groups in C₁-VS₆, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; the hydrogen atom;
R₁₇,R₁₉and R₂₁, identical or different, are chosen from C hydrocarbon groups₇-VS₂₁, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated;
r, s and t, identical or different, are integers valued from 2 to 6;
y is an integer from 1 to 10;
x and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10;
X^-is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion;
provided that the sum x + y + z is worth 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R₁₆designate₂₀and when z is 0 then R₁₈designate₂₂.
- fatty amidoamines, and in particular amidoamines of formula (VI): RCONHR’’N(R’)₂
in which :
-R represents a monovalent linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, having from 5 to 29 carbon atoms, preferably from 7 to 23 carbon atoms, and in particular a C alkyl radical₅-VS₂₉, preferably in C₇-VS₂₃, linear or branched, or a C alkenyl radical₅-VS₂₉, preferably in C₇-VS₂₃linear or branched;
- R'' represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 to 4 carbon atoms, better still, 3 carbon atoms; And
- R', identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having less than 6 carbon atoms, preferably 1 to 4 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated and substituted or unsubstituted, preferably a methyl radical .
preferably, the cationic surfactant(s) being chosen from those of formula (II) above, those of formula (V) above, those of formula (VI) above, and mixtures thereof; better among those of formula (II) above, those of formula (VI) above, and their mixtures; even better among those of formula (II) above. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more nonionic surfactants, preferably chosen from, alone or in mixture, (C6-C24 alkyl)(poly) glycosides, and more particularly (C8-C18 alkyl)( poly)glycosides; and oxyethylenated sorbitan esters, in particular those derived from saturated C12-C24 fatty acids and comprising 4 to 20 ethylene oxide units. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more anionic surfactants, in particular chosen from C6-C24 alkyl sulfates, in particular C12-C20 alkyl ether sulfates, C6-C24 alkyl ether sulfates, in particular C12-C20 preferably comprising from 1 to 20 ethylene oxide units; these surfactants being more particularly in the form of salts of alkali or alkaline earth metals, of ammonium or of amino alcohol; as well as their mixtures. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising one or more amphoteric surfactants, in particular chosen from alkyl (C8-C20) betaines such as cocobetaine, alkyl (C8-C20) amidoalkyl (C3-C8) betaines such as cocamidopropyl betaine , and their mixtures. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, comprising:
- one or more non-silicone fatty substances, preferably chosen from solid fatty substances, liquid fatty substances, and mixtures thereof; and or
- one or more associative polymers, preferably non-ionic; and or
- one or more polyols; and or
- one or more thickening agents. A method of cosmetic treatment of hair comprising a step of applying to the hair the composition according to one of the preceding claims; said application step can be followed by a rinsing step and/or a hair drying step.