FR3137576A1 - LIQUID EMULSION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, A NATURAL RESIN, A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL, A POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL AND PROCESS USING SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

LIQUID EMULSION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, A NATURAL RESIN, A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL, A POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL AND METHOD USING IT The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising: - ethylcellulose - at least one natural resin - at least one first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, C10-C26; - at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C, different from the first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils. It also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, and preferably the lips, consisting of applying the composition according to the invention.

Description

LIQUID EMULSION COMPRISING ETHYLCELLULOSE, A NATURAL RESIN, A LIQUID FATTY ALCOHOL, A POLAR HYDROCARBON OIL AND PROCESS USING SAME

The subject of the present invention is a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising ethylcellulose, a natural resin, at least one alcohol oil, at least one particular polar hydrocarbon oil, as well as a makeup process. and/or care of human keratin materials using it.

Today on the skin and/or lip care and/or makeup market, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors, such as water, sebum, food, friction. mechanical etc… These “long-lasting” products for the lips, or for the face, usable at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising as coating agent a silicone resin, such as for example resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/ polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer – INCI name).

In recent years, consumers have been increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are seeking in particular to use products with an increasingly high content of natural ingredients or of natural origin, ingredients whose impact environmental is minimized and/or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging options.

However, the difficulty remains in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they are accustomed with the products they already use.

The present invention aims to propose compositions allowing excellent retention of the expected cosmetic effects in particular the color of makeup on the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, particularly makeup removers, such as certain micellar waters and makeup remover wipes, for example.

Furthermore, the present invention aims to propose compositions providing hold with expected cosmetic effects, in particular the color of makeup, associated with an acceptable level of comfort.

These objectives and others are achieved by the present invention which relates to a liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:
- ethylcellulose
- at least one natural resin
- at least one first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C10-C26 fatty alcohols;
- at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C, different from the first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils.

The present invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, and preferably the lips, consisting of applying the composition according to the invention.

Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body, of the hands.

The makeup and/or skin and/or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable environment. By "physiologically acceptable", we mean compatible with the skin and/or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to distract the consumer from 'use this composition.

By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.

By “atmospheric pressure”, we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pascals.

The composition according to the invention is in the form of a liquid emulsion at room temperature.

By liquid, we mean a composition which flows under its own weight after one hour at room temperature. Advantageously, the viscosity of the liquid can be measured according to the following protocol:

The measurement of the viscosity is carried out at 25 C, using a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with an appropriate spindle (no. 1 to no. 4), the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the spindle at within the composition, at a shear of 200 revolutions/min (rpm).

Preferably, the viscosity at 25°C of a composition according to the invention is between 0.005 and 18 Pa.s, preferably between 0.01 and 15 Pa.s.

The composition according to the invention can be in the form of a direct emulsion, oil in water (the continuous phase of the emulsion is the aqueous phase) or in the form of an inverse emulsion, water in oil (the phase continuous is the lipophilic phase). Preferably the composition is in the form of a direct emulsion.

The makeup and/or skin and/or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable environment. By "physiologically acceptable", we mean compatible with the skin and/or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to distract the consumer from 'use this composition.

ETHYLCELLULOSE

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises at least ethylcellulose.

Ethylcellulose is an ethyl ether of cellulose, comprising a chain made up of β-anhydroglucose units linked together by acetal bonds. Each anhydroglucose unit has three replaceable hydroxyl groups, all or part of these hydroxyl groups can react according to the following reaction:

RONa + C ₂ H ₅ Cl ROC ₂ H ₅ + NaCl, where R represents a cellulose radical.

The total substitution of the three hydroxyl groups would lead for each anhydroglucose unit to a degree of substitution of 3, in other words to a content of alkoxy groups, in particular ethoxy of 54.88%.

The ethylcellulose polymers used in a cosmetic composition according to the invention are preferably polymers having a degree of substitution in ethoxy groups, ranging from 2.5 to 2.6 per anhydroglucose unit, in other words comprising a content of ethoxy groups ranging from 44% to 50%.

The average molar mass of ethylcellulose is preferably chosen so that the viscosity of a 5% by weight solution in an 80/20 mixture (toluene/ethanol) at 25°C ranges from 4 to 300 mPa .s, preferably from 5 to 200 mPa.s, for example from 5 to 150 mPa.s. (ASTM D 914 standard).

The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention can be found in powder form.

It is for example marketed under the trade names ETHOCEL Standard from Dow Chemicals, including ETHOCEL Standard 7 FP Premium and ETHOCEL standard 100 FP Premium. Other commercially available products, such as those marketed by Ashland, Inc., under the names Aqualon Ethylcellulose type-K, type-N and type-T, preferably type-N, such as N7, N100, are particularly suitable to the realization of the invention.

The ethylcellulose used in the composition according to the invention can also be found in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase, like a latex or pseudolatex type dispersion. The techniques for preparing these latex dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art.

Particularly suitable as an aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, the product marketed by the company FMC Biopolymer under the name “Aquacoat ECD-30”, which consists of a dispersion of ethylcellulose at a rate of approximately 26.2% by weight in the water and stabilized with sodium lauryl sulfate and cetyl alcohol.

According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous dispersion of ethylcellulose, in particular the product “Aquacoat ECD”, can be used at a rate of 10 to 90% by weight, in particular 15 to 60% by weight, preferably from 20 to 50% by weight of ethylcellulose dispersion, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The ethylcellulose content represents more particularly from 4 to 25% by weight, preferably from 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

NATURAL RESINS

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one natural resin.

The ISO4618: 2014(fr) standard defines a resin as being a “generally amorphous macromolecular product, with a consistency ranging from solid to liquid state”. Natural resins are also considered natural glues that have the inherent ability to polymerize consistently and predictably on their own without synthetic chemistry.

Natural resins are almost exclusively of plant origin (fossil or harvest), and are secreted then exuded from plants for defense, protection and communication roles within their ecosystem. Shellac of animal origin, secreted by the insect Coccus lacca, is an exception.

The resin used in the present invention is advantageously chosen from resins of plant origin.

By “natural resin”, and in particular “plant resin”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any substance comprising a minimum content of terpene compounds, that is to say at least 30% by weight of compounds. terpenes on the total weight of the substance (or material) considered, as defined chemically below, said substance being derived directly or indirectly from secretion and exudation, mainly by plants (more rarely by animals) , a substance for roles of defense, protection and communication with their ecosystem.

Advantageously, the natural resin according to the invention is not soluble in water at room temperature.

Preferably, the natural resin used in the composition according to the invention has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g/mol. The resin preferably has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g/mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g/mol, better still, less than or equal to 2000 g/mol in particular ranging from 250 to 2000 g/mol and even better less than or equal to 1000 g/mol in particular ranging from 250 to 1000 g/mol. Number average molecular weights (Mn) are determined by gel permeation liquid chromatography (THF solvent, calibration curve established with linear polystyrene standards, refractometric detector).

Thermal properties

Advantageously, the resins according to the invention are characterized by the fact that they have a softening point, which designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state during heating. .

Preferably, the resins of the invention have a softening point (or temperature) in the range from 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 150°C. 90°C.

The softening point is the temperature at which a product reaches a certain degree of softening under standard conditions. It designates the transition temperature from a pseudo-solid state to a plastic state upon heating. It is measurable by the ball and ring method (or TBA, ball and ring temperature) for resins according to the ASTM E284 standard;

Depending on their class, some of the resins according to the invention can also have a melting temperature, preferably lower than 360°C, preferably lower than 190°C, and even more preferably lower than 90°C.

According to a preferred form of the invention, the resins do not have a melting temperature.

The melting point (or melting temperature) of a substance at a given pressure corresponds to the temperature at which the liquid and solid states of that substance can coexist in equilibrium;

Preferably, the resins of the invention have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably in the range from 0 to 200°C, more preferably from 10°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C. C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C.

The glass transition temperature (Tv, or in English: Tg for glass) of a material represents the temperature interval through which the material passes from a rubbery state to a glassy, solid (rigid) state.

The thermal properties, in particular the Tf and Tg of the resins, can be measured by DSC (Differential Scanning Calorimetry), for example using a DSC 8000 device from Perkin Elmer, according to:

- Protocol 1: Determination of melting temperatures Tf and crystallization Tc: Raw materials alone or solubilized/dispersed in solvents, stainless steel cups, scanning from 5°C to 90°C, scanning speed at 5°C.min- 1.

- Protocol 2: Determination of the glass transition temperature Tg: measurement in 2nd heating. Aluminum cups (40 μL) are used containing the raw materials, a temperature scan between -100°C and 150°C (with isotherms) is carried out in order to observe the glass transition temperature. The temperature ramp applied is 10°C/min for the glass transition temperatures (2 cycles).

Botanical definition of resins

Natural resins of plant or animal origin are classically defined by the encyclopedia Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Synthetic” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002/ 14356007.a23_089.pub2. Natural resins include rosins (gum, wood or tall oil rosins from tree and plant exudates; extracted wood; or by-products of papermaking), fossil resins such as amber; extracted resins such as asphaltite; shellacs such as those produced from insect secretions; and their main derivatives.

Preferably, the resins of the invention are of plant origin, in particular from plants or trees.

Fossil resins are resins (hard and semi-hard) collected in the soil on the site of ancient forests that have disappeared today. Some fossil resins have undergone considerable changes in their chemical structure through aging or ripening, which may have taken thousands of years. The transition from fossil to recent resins is variable. They can, for example, include resins which are both found fossilized and collected from living plants. Semi-fossil varieties are collected at the foot of the trees that produced them (Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry, “Resins, Natural” 2012 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim, DOI: 10.1002/14356007.a23_073) (Engineering Techniques, “Natural Resins”, 1982 Bernard Delmond).

The harvest resins are recent (soft). They are harvested from plants that are all living. Depending on their composition, they are subdivided into:

- oleoresin: natural solution of resin in an essential oil;

- balm: resin characterized by a significant proportion of benzoic and cinnamic acids and their esters;

- gum: resin composed essentially of polysaccharides;

- gum-resin: mixture of resins and hydrophilic gums;

- latex: milky composition of organic matter dispersed in an aqueous medium (Engineering Techniques, “Natural Resins”, 1982 Bernard Delmond).

Among the resins, in particular recent resins, of the invention, resins soluble in oils and/or alcohols are preferred over water-soluble forms such as latexes or gums.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins of the invention are harvest resins; particularly interesting according to the invention from an ecological point of view because they are self-regenerating. Preferably, the resins of the invention are recent.

Chemical definition of resins

Chemically, natural resins are complex mixtures of several classes of compounds whose presence and content define the class of resin (oleoresin, balsam, gum, etc.): essential oils, neutral and acidic constituents and polysaccharides (present exclusively in gums).

The characteristic components of the resins are the terpene compounds which they contain, preferably in a content of at least 30% by weight, based on the weight of resin.

By “terpene compounds” we mean terpenes, hydrocarbons formed from isoprene of general formula (C5H8)n, and their numerous derivatives (alcohols, aldehydes, ketones, acids, etc.) comprising a terpene structure (Académie de Montpellier. Les resins: https://tice.ac-montpellier.fr/ABCDORGA/Famille/Terpenes.html).

Among the terpene hydrocarbons, we distinguish: monoterpenes of crude formula C10H16 (n=2), sesquiterpenes of crude formula C15H24 (n=3), diterpenes (C20H32) (n=4), sesterterpenes (C25H40) (n =5), triterpenes (C30H48) (n=6), tetraterpenes (C40H64) (n=8) and other polyterpenes. Some have an acyclic structure; they contain a number of double bonds corresponding to their crude formula: 3 for C10H16; 5 for C20H32; 7 for C30H48. Others have one or more cycles, i.e. a smaller number of double bonds; for example for C10H16 one cycle and 2 double bonds or 2 cycles and one double bond.

Advantageously, the resins of the invention contain at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and even more preferably at least 60% of terpene compounds, by weight over the total weight of resin or resinous substance used as raw material in the composition according to the invention.

Monoterpene and sesquiterpene compounds are mostly volatile compounds, constituting essential oils for example. Polyterpene compounds deriving from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4 (such as diterpene and triterpene derivatives) are resinous compounds of a rather solid nature.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, that is to say deriving from terpenes with n greater than or equal to 4, out of the total weight of the resin representing 100%. Resins having a solid fraction at room temperature (25°C) are therefore preferred. Advantageously, said resins used according to the invention are not volatile.

Advantageously, the polyterpene compounds of the resins or resinous substances used in the composition of the invention are mainly (more than 50% by weight on the total weight of polyterpenes) derived from diterpenes and/or triterpenes.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resins comprise less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, that is to say deriving from terpenes with n less than 4, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably said resins comprise less than 60% by weight, preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, deriving from terpenes with n less than 4, out of the total weight of the resin representing 100%. We therefore prefer, for the compositions of the invention, to limit the use of the most volatile resins, because they are less effective in terms of holding the cosmetic film.

A non-exhaustive list of terpene compounds that may be contained in the natural resins of the invention has been established. It lists families of terpene compounds, subdivided according to the characteristic groups (alcohol function, ketone function, acid function, etc.) of each compound (Lists below).

Examples of monoterpene compounds

Advantageously, the monoterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: alpha-pinene, β-pinene, 3-carene, Camphene, Dipentene, P-Cymene, B-myrcene, α-Phellandrene, Sabinene, α-Thuyene, Limonene, Octyl Ethanoate, Neryl Ethanoate, Bornyl Ethanoate, Geranyl Ethanoate, α-Terpineol, Cineol, Linalool, Borneol, their derivatives, and their mixtures.

Examples of sesquiterpene compounds

Advantageously, the sesquiterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: Alpha-copaene, β-caryophyllene, β-bisabolene, β-gurjunene, alpha-gurjunene, allo-Aromadendrene, β – Bourbonene, Delta-cadinene, Alpha-guaiene, α – Elémène, β – Elémène, d – Elémène, α – Copaène, α – Sélinene, β – Sélinene, β – Bourbonene, Lindestrène, Furanoeudesma-1,3-diene, α – Cubebène, Farnesol, α- Elémol, Viridiflorol, t- Cadinol, β- Elémol, Germacrone, Curzerenone, their derivatives, and their mixtures.

Examples of diterpene compounds

Advantageously, the diterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from: Abietic acid, Pimaric acid, Sandarcopimaric acid, Comonic acid, Levopimaric acid, Palustric acid, Isopimaric acid, Dehydroabietic acid, Neoabietic acid, Agathic acid, Cembrene A, Cembrene C, Isocembrene, Vercilla-4(20),7,11-triene, Incensole, Totarol, Sandaracopimarinol, Cembrenol, their derivatives, and their mixtures.

Examples of triterpene compounds

Advantageously, the triterpene compound(s) of the resin are chosen from:

3β,20(S)-dihydroxydammar-24-ene, dammarenolic acid, dammardienone, hydroxydammarenone (I or II), Dammarenediol I (or II), Dammadienol, 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (KBA), acid acetate 11-keto-β-boswellic acid (AKBA), β-boswellic acid, ursolic acid, mangiferonic acid, benthamic acid, Ursolic aldehyde, α-amyrenone, α-amyrin, Β-amyrin, Uvaol, oleanolic acid, oleanonic acid, moronic acid , Oleanonic aldehyde, Acetyl-lupeolic acid, lupeolic acid, Lupéol

Betulonal, Hydroxyhopanone, their derivatives, and their mixtures.

According to a first embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one diterpene compound, preferably derived from abietic acid, natural or chemically modified.

According to a second embodiment of the invention, alternative or complementary to the first, the resin(s) used according to the present invention contain at least one triterpene compound, preferably chosen from the following triterpene compounds: alpha-amyrin, Beta-amyrin , alpha-amyrone, beta-amyrone, dammadienone, dammadienol, ursolic aldehyde, hydroxyhopanone, oleanonic aldehyde, ursolic acid, oleanonic acid, oleanolic acid, and mixtures thereof. The total content of triterpene compounds, in particular the content of those preferred above, in the resin used according to the invention is advantageously at least 10%, preferably at least 20%, even more preferably at least 30%, and preferably at least 35% by weight on the total weight of the natural resin. We can in particular cite incense resins, such as Protium Heptaphyllum or Shorea Robusta resins, containing such triterpene compounds.

The chemical composition of a resin can be analyzed by conventional techniques known to those skilled in the art such as CPG gas chromatographic analysis, chromatographic analysis with flame ionization detection called GC-FID, or GC/MS analysis which consists of the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph; preferably by GC-FID. The following article discusses these common methods “Methodological developments in TLC/MALDITOF MS and GC/MS for the analysis of terpenoid compounds present in plant resins”, https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01581308.

Definition of resins by their origin:

Advantageously, the natural resin(s) according to the invention are chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) Asphaltite and Gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam , f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) copal resins (in particular copal resins from Kauri, Manila, West African copals such as copals from Congo, Angola or Cameroon, East African copals such as Zanzibar or Madagascar copals, South American copals such as Brazilian or Colombian copals), i) Damars, j) Elémis, k) Incense, l) Galbanums, m) Labdanums, n) Mastic or Putties, o) Myrrh, p) Sandaraque, q) Shellacs, r) Styrax (Storax), s) Venetian Turpentine ( Larch, Turpentine), t) rosins including Rosin and Rosinate and Tall oils, v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins.

Preferably the natural resin(s) used according to the invention are chosen from incense resins (k) and resins extracted from vegetable waxes (v). It is understood that the resin(s) of the invention can be esterified, salified, adducted, modified with phenols, and/or dimerized and further hydrogenated.

Incense resins (Oliban)

Incenses are present in the United Arab Emirates, Oman, Somalia, Ethiopia and Eastern India. The incense resins are recent and taken from the Boswellia carterii tree incense. There are also incense resins from Amazonia. The bark is intentionally wounded to obtain a milky extract which is recovered after drying. Preferably the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incense, particularly from the Amazon.

Frankincense resins are pale yellow, forming irregular rounded or globular beads. They generally contain 20% to 40% by weight (approx. 33%) of boswellic acid (C ₃₂ H52O4). Frankincenses have an acid number between 30% and 50% (indirect) and are moderately soluble in ethanol in alkaline environments.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) of the invention are chosen from incenses, in particular Amazonian incense resins marketed under the name Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, or Protium Resin, or White Breu Resin , and incense resins from the Sal tree, Shorea robusta.

Advantageously, the resin(s) are in mixture with one or more fatty substances as defined below according to the invention, preferably chosen from volatile or non-volatile oils. We can cite for example Shorea robusta resin with sunflower seed oil (Shorea Robusta Resin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, tocopherol: 50-75% by weight shorea robusta resin, 25-50% by weight sunflower seed oil) marketed under the name Kahlresin 6720, and Shorea Robusta resin with octyldodecanol (Shorea Robusta Resin and Octyldodecanol; 50-70% by weight Shorea Robusta Resin, 30-50% by weight octyldodecanol) marketed by Kahlresin 6720.

Resins extracted from vegetable waxes

Natural plant waxes as such are not considered resins. Although they are among the substances secreted/excreted by plants and naturally containing a very low resin content, they contain less than 30% by weight of terpenes on the total weight of wax. For example, Carnauba wax is naturally secreted by the leaves of a Copernica Cerifera palm to prevent the leaves from becoming dehydrated. Candelilla wax is obtained from a shrub called Euphorbia Antisyphilitica native to Northern Mexico. The wax protects the plant from its environment and prevents excessive evaporation. For example, candelilla wax consists mainly of hydrocarbons (about 50%, chains of 29 to 33 carbon atoms), higher molecular weight esters (20 to 29%), free acids (7 to 9%), and resins (12–14%, mainly triterpene esters).

However, the definition of “natural resins” within the meaning of the present invention also includes resins derived from vegetable waxes, when they have been previously concentrated, isolated or extracted from these waxes, since the resinous or terpene ingredient considered contains the minimum terpene content (30% by weight of the total weight of the ingredient) required by the present invention. We can notably cite Candelilla resin (100% pure resin extracted from the corresponding wax), INCI name: Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, marketed under the name Candelilla Resin E-1 by Japan Natural Products. Document WO2013/147113 A1 also refers to Carnauba resin, a terpene resin extracted from Carnauba wax, and having physical properties similar to those of natural resins classically described, such as a softening temperature and not a temperature fusion which differentiates resin from wax.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the resin(s) are chosen from Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax Extract, Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, Shorea Robusta Resin, as well as their mixture, and preferably from Euphorbia Cerifera ( Candellila) Wax Extract, Shorea Robusta Resin and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the resin(s) is(are) present in the composition of the invention at a content included in the range of 0.5 to 15%by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10%by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

FIRST OIL

As indicated previously, the composition according to the invention comprises, as first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C, fatty alcohols, saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched, C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ , preferably mono-alcohols. .

Advantageously, the C ₁₀ -C ₂₆ alcohols are fatty alcohols, preferably branched when they comprise at least 16 carbon atoms. Preferably, the fatty alcohol comprises from 10 to 24 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. As particular examples of fatty alcohols which can be used as a preferred method, mention may in particular be made of lauric, isostearyl, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, 2-hexyldecyl alcohol, isocetyl alcohol. , octyldodecanol and their mixtures. According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the alcohol is chosen from octyldodecanol.

More particularly, the content of first oil varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SECOND OIL

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one second particular non-volatile hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1,013,105 Pa).

By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 2.66 Pa, more particularly less than 0.13 Pa. By way of example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure of the oil (OECD standard 104).

The composition according to the invention comprises, as second oil, at least one oil chosen from:
* ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ ;
* hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils;
* ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;
* liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
* as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the second oil is chosen from:
- dicaprylyl ether,
- dipropyl carbonate, diethylhexyl carbonate, dicaprylyl carbonate, C14-15 dialkyl carbonate,
- castor oil, olive oil, jojoba oil, ximenia oil, pracaxi oil, wheat germ oil, corn oil, corn oil sunflower, shea oil, sweet almond oil, macadamia oil, apricot kernel oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, peanut oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, poppy oil, pumpkin oil, sesame oil, pumpkin oil, avocado oil, hazelnut oil , grapeseed oil, blackcurrant oil, argan oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, linseed oil, quinoa oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bankoulier oil, passionflower oil, rosehip oil, the liquid fraction of shea butter, and the liquid fraction of butter cocoa and their mixtures;
- ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyl-decyl palmitate, octyledodecyl neopentanoate, 2-octyl dodecyl stearate, butyl stearate, 2-octyl dodecyl erucate, C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoates, 2-octyl dodecyl benzoate, isocetyl isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl palmitate, hexyl laurate , 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, isopropyl myristate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, diisostearyl malate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, glyceryl 2-tri-decyl tetradecanoate, capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, C _18-36 acid triglycerides, glyceryl triheptanoate, glyceryl trioctanoate, glyceryl 2-tridecyl tetradecanoate, triisostearyl citrate, tridecyl stearate, tridecyl trimellitate, pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate , pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate, pentaerythrityl tetra-2-decyl tetradecanoate; isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate,
- the polyesters with the following INCI names: dilinoleic acid/butanediol copolymer, dilinoleic acid/propanediol copolymer, dimer dilinoleyl dilinoleate,
- as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the second oil is chosen from dicaprylyl ether; dicaprylyl carbonate; non-hydroxylated vegetable oils such as olive oil; Castor oil ; capric/caprylic acid triglycerides, isocetyl isostearate, isononyl isononanoate, neopentyl glycol dicaprate, tridecyl stearate, pentaerythrityl esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, as well as their mixtures.

The content of second oil varies from 2 to 35% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SOLID HYDROCARBON COMPOUND WITH ESTER FUNCTION

The composition according to the invention may optionally also comprise at least one hydrocarbon compound that is solid at room temperature, comprising an ester function. For the purposes of the invention, this means that said compound comprises at least one ester function (-COOR).

By “hydrocarbon compound”, we conventionally designate a compound formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of oxygen or nitrogen atoms, and not containing other heteroatoms, such as atoms of silicon, fluorine, phosphorus, etc. Advantageously, the solid hydrocarbon compounds used according to the invention contain only carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms.

The solid compound can be chosen from waxes.

More particularly, the wax is a solid lipophilic compound at a temperature greater than 22°C, preferably greater than or equal to 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point in particular greater than or equal to at 22°C, preferably greater than or equal to 25°C, more particularly greater than or equal to 30°C, even more particularly greater than or equal to 45°C. Advantageously, the melting point is less than or equal to 90°C, more particularly less than or equal to 80°C, and preferably less than or equal to 70°C.

The melting point of a solid fatty substance can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name “DSC Q100” by the company TA Instruments with the software “TA Universal Analysis.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
A sample of solid fatty substance of approximately 5 mg is placed in an “airtight aluminum capsule” crucible.
The sample is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from 20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 2°C/minute up to 80°C, then left at the isotherm of 100°C for 20 minutes , then is cooled from 120°C to – 0°C at a cooling rate of 2°C / minute, and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from 0°C to 20°C at a heating rate of 2 °C / minute.
The melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the melting curve observed, representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

The solid compound can also be chosen from pasty compounds.

By "pasty compound", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting temperature lower than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound can have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled by 100°C. C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to go from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

Among the solid hydrocarbon compounds which can be used in the context of the present invention, the following may be mentioned in particular:
* vegetable butters,
* totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils,
* vegetable waxes,
* beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax,
* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids,
* triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, C12-C30, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated,
* waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil esterified with fatty alcohols such as lauric, stearyl, cetyl, behenyl alcohol,
* esters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen,
* polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and esters of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20,
* polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol,
* their mixtures.

Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

* vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter, such as that marketed under the Sheasoft® reference by the company Aarhuskarlshamn, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

* totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated vegetable oil of soya, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the reference commercial Iso-Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

* waxes of plant origin, such as sunflower wax, carnauba wax, candellila wax, rice bran wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, wax cork fibers, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax, sumac wax, montan wax, Orange and Lemon waxes, Laurel wax, and their mixtures,

* beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax,

* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as the compound named INCI Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL ,

* triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, in particular C12-C30, optionally hydrogenated. Mention may be made, for example, of triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially), such as for example glycerides of fatty acids. saturated C12-C18 sold under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides); the triglycerides of a C ₁₆ -C ₃₀ carboxylic acid, saturated, optionally hydroxylated; for example, we can cite trihydroxystearine (or glyceryl trihydroxystearate), sadearin (or glyceryl sadearate), tribehenin (or glyceryl tribehenate), alone or as a mixture. Among suitable compounds, mention may be made of triesters of glycerol and 12-hydroxystearic acid, or of hydrogenated castor oil, such as for example Thixcin R, Thixcin E, marketed by Elementis Specialties.

* waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil esterified with fatty alcohols such as lauryl, stearyl, cetyl, behenyl alcohol. For example, we can cite waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol, such as those sold under the names Phytowax ricin 16L64 ^® and 22L73 ^® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. Also suitable are waxes obtained by hydrogenation of olive oil esterified with stearyl alcohol, such as those sold under the name “PHYTOWAX Olive 18 L 57”.

* esters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen. In particular, it is possible to use as ester wax a (hydroxystearyloxy) C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture or a C ₂₀ - alkyl stearate. _C40 . Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P ^® ”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P ^® ”, “Kester Wax K 80 P ^® ”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN. It is also possible to use mixtures of C14-C18 carboxylic acid esters and alcohols such as the products “Cetyl Ester Wax 814” from the company KOSTER KEUNEN, “SP Crodamol MS MBAL”, “Crodamol MS PA” from the company KOSTER KEUNEN. CRODA company, “Miraceti” from the LASERSON company.

It is also possible to use a montanate (octacosanoate) of glycol and butylene glycol such as LICOWAX KPS FLAKES wax (INCI name: glycol montanate) marketed by the company Clariant.

* Hydrocarbon, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerolated waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or plant origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (in C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20. As examples, mention may be made of polyoxyethylenated beeswaxes, such as PEG- 6 beeswax, PEG-8 beeswax; polyoxyethylene carnauba waxes, such as PEG-12 carnauba; lanolin waxes, hydrogenated or not, polyoxyethene or polyoxypropylenate, such as PEG-30 lanolin, PEG-75 lanolin; PPG-5 lanolin wax glyceride; polyglycerol beeswaxes, in particular polyglyceryl-3 Beewax, the Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax/Polyglyceryl-3 Esters mixture, polyglycerol vegetable waxes such as mimosa, jojoba, sunflower waxes, and their mixtures (Acacia Decurrens/Jojoba/Sunflower Seed Wax Polyglyceryl-3 Esters.

* Polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

* Polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example:
- esters of dimer diol (for example of dilinoleic alcohol) and of dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
- esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

Preferably, the solid hydrocarbon compound is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12-C30, optionally hydrogenated, preferably C12-C18, such as Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides.

Advantageously, if the composition comprises it, the content of solid hydrocarbon compound(s) at room temperature is less than 15% by weight, between 0 (limit inclusive) and less than 15% by weight. weight, preferably between 0 and 10% by weight (limits included) relative to the total weight of the composition.

ADDITIONAL OILS Volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oils

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil, or their mixture.

By volatile oil is meant an oil having a vapor pressure greater than or equal to 2.66 Pa, at ambient temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging at 13,000 Pa, and preferably at 1300 Pa.

The volatile hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon oils.

By “non-polar” we mean a hydrocarbon oil made up of carbon atoms and hydrogen atoms (hydrocarbon type compound).

By “silicone oil” we mean an oil comprising at least one silicon atom.

With regard to volatile hydrocarbon oils, these are chosen more particularly from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular:
-branched alkanes in C ₈ -C ₁₆ such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins) in C ₈ -C ₁₆ , isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example oils sold under the trade names d 'Isopars or Permetyls,
-linear alkanes, for example C ₁₁ -C ₁₆ , alone or in mixtures, and
-their mixtures.

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones with viscosities 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

If the composition comprises it, the content of volatile hydrocarbon oil(s) is preferably less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, and advantageously the composition does not comprise volatile oil.

Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least one non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil.

As examples, the non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from paraffin oil, squalane, isoeicosane, non-volatile mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, polyisobutenes , hydrogenated or not, polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, decene/butene copolymers, polybutene/polyisobutene copolymers, as well as mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, in non-volatile hydrocarbon oil(s). (s) non-polar. Preferably, the composition according to the invention does not comprise non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s).

Silicone oils

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one non-volatile silicone oil.

From non-volatile silicone oils, in particular dimethicones, dimethiconols, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone; as well as their mixtures (INCI names).

In accordance with one embodiment of the present invention, if such oils were present, their content would be less than or equal to 10% by weight, more preferably less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight. weight, and advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention does not contain it.

AQUEOUS PHASE

The composition according to the invention comprises water.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention comprises at least 15% by weight of water, in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, and in particular from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also comprise at least one monoalcohol having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably saturated, such as preferably ethanol or isopropanol.

If the composition includes it, the monoalcohol content varies between 0 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition may also optionally comprise at least one polyol liquid at 25°C and atmospheric pressure (1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

By “polyol” is meant any organic molecule containing at least two hydroxyl groups (or free hydroxyl groups).

More particularly, the liquid polyol(s) are chosen from C ₂ -C ₈ hydrocarbon compounds, more particularly C ₂ -C ₆ , saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably comprising 2 with 6 hydroxyl groups. Advantageously, the liquid polyol can for example be chosen from ethylene glycol, pentaerythritol, trimethylolpropane, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 1,3 propanediol, butylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, isopentyldiol , pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, ethylhexyl glycerol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof. Preferably the polyol is chosen from glycerol, propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diglycerol, and mixtures thereof; even more advantageously, glycerol.

Preferably, if the composition comprises at least one liquid polyol as described above, its content varies from 0 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises at least 20% by weight of aqueous phase (water + C1-C5 monoalcohol(s) + liquid polyol(s)), in particular from 20 to 60% by weight, and in particular from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

SURFACTANTS

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one surfactant, nonionic or anionic, preferably hydrocarbon.

Those skilled in the art, using their general knowledge, are able to determine whether it is necessary to use one or more surfactants.

As an indication, if the composition includes it, the content of surfactant(s) represents 0.01 to 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Nonionic surfactants

The choice of surfactant(s) depends on the nature of the desired emulsion.

In particular, if an oil-in-water emulsion is envisaged, the surfactant(s) will preferably be chosen at least from nonionic, hydrocarbon or silicone surfactants, having an HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) value within the meaning of GRIFFIN such as defined in J. Soc. Cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249-256) greater than or equal to 8, and preferably at least among hydrocarbon surfactants.

If we also consider a water-in-oil emulsion, then the surfactant(s) will preferably be chosen from nonionic surfactants having an HLB value (as defined above) less than 8, hydrocarbons, silicones, or their mixtures.

The nonionic surfactant(s) may be chosen in particular from (poly)oxyalkylenated alcohols, (poly)oxyalkylenated ethers, (poly)oxyalkylenated esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated sorbitan esters or not, (poly)sorbitan ethers. oxyalkylenated or not, alkyl(poly)glucosides, sugar esters, glycerol esters (poly)oxyalkylenated or not, glycerol ethers (poly)oxyalkylenated or not, as well as mixtures thereof. By “oxyalkylenated” is meant an oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated unit, the number of units varying between 1 and 200.

Among the (poly)oxyethylenated alcohols , we can cite:

* Polyoxyethylenated fatty alcohols of the R(O-CH2-CH2)o-OH type, R representing a C8-C30 alkyl radical, o representing an average integer ranging from 2 to 50, in particular chosen from Ceteth-2, ceteth-5, ceteth-7, Ceteth-10, ceteth-15, Ceteth-20, ceteth-23, Ceteth-25, Ceteth-40, Isoceteth-20, Laureth-2, Laureth-3, Laureth-4, Laureth-7, Laureth-12, Laureth-23, Oleth-2, Oleth-5, Oleth-7, Oleth-10, 'oleth-12, Oleth-20, Oleth-25, oleth-50, Deceth-3, Deceth-5, Beheneth-10, beheneth 100, Steareth-2, steareth- 6, Steareth-10, Steareth-20, Steareth-21, Steareth-40, Steareth-100, Ceteareth-7, Ceteareth-10, Ceteareth-12, Ceteareth-15, Ceteareth- 20, Ceteareth-25, Ceteareth-30, Ceteareth-33, pareth-3, pareth-23, C12-15 pareth-3,C12-13 pareth-4, C12-13 pareth-23, Coceth-7, trideceth-3, trideceth-4, trideceth-5, trideceth-6, trideceth-7, trideceth-10, Trideceth-12, phytosterol 30 EO, and mixtures thereof.

* Polyoxyethylenated and oxypropylenated alcohols of type: R-(OC(CH ₃ )H-CH ₂ )o-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )p-OH; R representing a C ₄ -C ₃₀ alkyl radical, o and p, independently of one another, representing an average integer ranging from 1 to 50. Preferably, the compound Y is chosen from the compounds whose name INCI is: PPG-26-buteth-26, PPG-12-buteth-16, PPG-5-ceteth-20, PPG-4-ceteth-20, PPG-6-decyltetradeceth-30, and mixtures thereof.

Among the (poly)oxyalkylenated esters , polyethylene glycol and acid esters of the type:
R-CO-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )n-OH or
R-CO-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )qO-CO-R or
R-CO-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )qOR or
RO-(CH(CH ₃ )-(CH ₂ ))p-(O-CH ₂ -CH ₂ )qO-CO-R
In which R represent, identical or not, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon groups, C2-C20; n, p, q, average integers, identical or not, varying from 2 to 150.

They may in particular be chosen from PEG-6 Isostearate, PEG-6 Stearate, PEG-7 cocoate, PEG-8 laurate, PEG-8 Stearate, PEG-8 Isostearate, PEG-8 oleate, PEG-9 cococate, PEG-10 oleate PEG-20 laurate, PEG-20 Stearate, PEG-30 Stearate, PEG-32 Stearate, PEG-40 laurate, PEG-40 Stearate, PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil PEG-75 Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, PEG-8 Distearate, PEG-150 Distearate, Mereth-3 Myristate, PEG-4 Olivate, Propylene glycol Ceteth-3 Acetate, PEG-30 Dipolyhydroxystearate, as well as mixtures thereof.

As sorbitan esters, (poly)oxyalkylenated or not , those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100, more particularly from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units, as well as Polysorbates are preferably used. .

With regard to sorbitan esters, mention may be made of mono-, or polyester, preferably mono-, di- or tri-esters, of sorbitan, comprising at least one C ₁₂ -C ₂₄ group, saturated or unsaturated. Suitable sorbitan esters include, for example, sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan sadarate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan sesquioleate, sorbitan triloleate, sorbitan palmitate, and mixtures thereof, and preferably sorbitan stearate, sorbitan isostearate, sorbitan laurate, sorbitan oleate, sorbitan triloleate, sorbitan palmitate, as well as mixtures thereof.

Among the Polysorbates (INCI name), we can particularly cite the compounds with the following INCI names: Polysorbate-20, Polysorbate-21, Polysorbate-60, Polysorbate-61, Polysorbate-80, Polysorbate-85, as well as their mixtures. Regarding esters, we can cite PEG-40 Sorbitan Peroleate.

With regard to alkyl (poly) glucosides , those containing an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 6 to 18, or even from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and containing a group are preferably used. glucoside preferably comprising from 1 to 5, in particular 1, 2 to 3 glucoside units. The alkylpolyglucosides can be chosen for example from decylglucoside (Alkyl-C ₉ /C ₁₁ -polyglucoside (1.4)) such as the product sold under the name Mydol 10 ^® by the company Kao Chemicals or the product sold under the name Plantacare 2000 UP ^® by the company Henkel and the product marketed under the name ORAMIX NS 10 ^® by the company SEPPIC; caprylyl/capryl glucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare KE 3711 ^® by the company Cognis or ORAMIX CG 110 ^® by the company SEPPIC; laurylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 1200 UP ^® by the company Henkel or Plantaren 1200 N ^® by the company Henkel; cocoglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 818 UP ^® by the company Henkel; caprylylglucoside such as the product marketed under the name Plantacare 810 UP ^® by the company Cognis; and their mixtures.

As sugar esters , we can cite for example glucose derivatives such as in particular polyoxyethylenated alkylglucoses such as the compounds defined by the following INCI names: Methyl-Gluceth-10, Methyl-Gluceth-20. Polyoxyethylenated sugar esters are also suitable, such as for example the following INCI name compounds: PEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate, PEG-20 Methyl Glucose Sesquistearate, as well as mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of sucrose esters such as those chosen from sucrose cocoate, sucrose laurate, sucrose myristate, sucrose palmitate, sucrose stearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose oleate, sucrose behenate, sucrose sadarate, alone or in mixtures. Preferably, the sucrose ester is chosen from sucrose laurate, sucrose palmitate, or mixtures thereof.

As (poly)glycerol esters, we can cite:

* Esters of glycerol and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s) optionally hydroxylated at C ₆ -C ₄₀ , more particularly at C ₈ -C ₃₀ , or derived from vegetable oils, said esters being polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 200 oxyethylenated units, more preferably from 2 to 100 oxyethylenated units, even more particularly between 2 and 80 oxyethylenated units. These compounds are found more particularly in the form of mono-, di- or tri-glycerides, alone or in mixtures. As examples of such esters, mention may be made of PEG-6 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, PEG-60 Almond Glycerides, PEG-10 Olive Glycerides, PEG-45 Palm Kernel Glycerides, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-30 Glyceryl Cocoate, PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil, PEG-30 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-200 Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-20 Glyceryl Triisostearate, PEG-70 Mango Glycerides , Hydrogenated Palm/Palm Kernel Oil PEG-6 Esters, PEG-200 Hydrogenated Glyceryl Palmate, PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate, the mixture of polyoxyethylenated palm glycerides (200 EO) and polyoxyethylenated copra (7 EO), as well as their mixtures.

* Polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s), saturated or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derivatives of vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compounds Y are chosen from nonionic polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s), comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derivatives of vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acids may further comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably, are monocarboxylic acids. Polyglycerol compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or triesters. More particularly, the compounds Y are chosen from polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and saturated carboxylic acid(s) or polymer(s) of carboxylic acid(s). ) or unsaturated, comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or polyglycerol esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and derivatives of vegetable oils, as well as mixtures thereof. Preferably, the compounds Y are chosen from nonionic polyglycerolated esters comprising 2 to 20 glycerol units and saturated or unsaturated carboxylic acid(s), comprising 6 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably 8 to 30 carbon atoms, or derivatives of vegetable oils, and mixtures thereof. The carboxylic acids may further comprise 1 to 3 carboxylic groups, and preferably, are monocarboxylic acids. Polyglycerol compounds are more particularly mono-, di- or triesters. As examples of compounds Y, the following compounds can be cited, designated by their INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Stearate, Polyglyceryl-2 Isostearate , Polyglyceryl-2 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-3 Dicitrate/Stearate, Polyglyceryl- 4 Diisostearate, Polyglyceryl-4 Caprate, Polyglyceryl-4 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-5 Laurate, Poylglyceryl-5 oleate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate, Polyglyceryl-6 dicaprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Distearate, Polyglyceryl-6 Caprylate/Caprate, Polyglyceryl-6 Dioleate, Polyglyceryl-6 trilaurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Laurate, Polyglyceryl-10 Dioleate, polyglycerol apricot kernel oil esters comprising 3 to 10 glycerol units, as well as mixtures thereof.

As alkyl- and polyalkyl-glycerol ethers, (poly)oxyethylenated or not , those having a number of ethylene oxide (EO) units ranging from 0 to 100 and a number of glycerol units ranging from 1 are preferably used. to 30. As an example, we can cite Nikkol Batyl alcohol 100, Nikkol chimyl alcohol 100.

More particularly, the surfactant(s) are chosen from sucrose esters, sorbitan esters, mono- or poly-glycerolated nonionic hydrocarbon surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

Anionic surfactants

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one additional anionic surfactant, more particularly hydrocarbon.

The anionic surfactants may be chosen from alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, carboxylates, amino acid derivatives, sulfonates, isethionates, taurates, sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, phosphates and alkyl phosphates, polypeptides, metal salts of C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ fatty acids. More particularly, these compounds are found in the form of salts of alkali metals such as sodium, potassium, or even amine or alkanolamine, in particular C ₂ -C ₄ , primary or secondary. These compounds generally comprise from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 20 carbon atoms in their longest hydrocarbon chain, and are saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic. They can also contain up to 20 oxyalkylenated units, preferably up to 15 units (in particular oxyethylenated).

COLORING MATERIAL

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from synthetic, natural or natural coloring materials.

The coloring material can be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Pigments

The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

By “mineral pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 3000® from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 µm. at 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of particles present by volume.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, we can cite more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

As mineral pigments which can be used in the invention, we can also cite mother-of-pearl.

By “pearl”, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

We can also cite, as an example of mother-of-pearl, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then transport them.

The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, “the coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

According to another particular mode, the coloring material is an organic, synthetic, natural pigment or of natural origin.

By “organic pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47 005, pigments green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 5800 0, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2 % by weight, relative to the weight of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring material content is less than 50% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

By “water-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring.

By “fat-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

Among the natural water-soluble dyes we can cite anthocyanins.

[00239] As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fat-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown.

As an illustration of natural fat-soluble dyes, we can particularly cite carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinole yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

The water-soluble or fat-soluble dye(s) are preferably present in the composition according to the invention, at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0.02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

THICKENERS

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous phase thickener and/or at least one lipophilic phase thickener.

Water-phase thickeners

As examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers, we can cite more particularly:

* homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acids or their salts and esters and in particular products sold under the names
“VERSICOL F” or “VERSICOL K” by the company ALLIED COLLOID,
“UTRAHOLD 8” by the company CIBA-GEIGY, polyacrylic acids of the SYNTHALEN K type, and salts, in particular of sodium, of polyacrylic acid (responding to the INCI name sodium acrylate copolymer) and more particularly a crosslinked sodium polyacrylate (responding to in the name INCI sodium acrylate copolymer (and) caprylic/capric triglyceride) sold under the name “LUVIGEL EM” by the company,

* copolymers of acrylic acid and acrylamide sold in the form of their sodium salt under the names “RETEN” by the company HERCULES, sodium polymethacrylate sold under the name “DARVAN N°7” by the company VANDERBILT, sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids sold under the name “HYDAGEN F” by the company HENKEL,

* polyacrylic acid/alkyl acrylate copolymers, preferably carboxyvinyl polymers modified or not, particularly with acrylate/C ₁₀ -C ₃₀ -alkylacrylate copolymers (INCI name Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl acrylate Crosspolymer) such as the products marketed by the company Lubrizol under the trade names PEMULEN TR1, PEMULEN TR2, CARBOPOL 1382, CARBOPOL EDT 2020 and even more preferably PEMULEN TR-2;

* polyacrylamidomethyl propane sulfonic acid partially neutralized with ammonia and highly crosslinked) marketed by the company CLARIANT,

* acrylamido propane sulfonic acid/acrylamide copolymers of the SEPIGEL or SIMULGEL type marketed by the company SEPPIC,

* acrylamido propane sulfonic acid/polyoxyethylenated alkyl methacrylate copolymers (cross-linked or not) of the ARISTOFLEX HMS type marketed by the company CLARIANT,

* copolymers of hydroxyalkyl acrylic acid or their salts and acryloyldimethyl taurate monomers of the type of SEPINOV EMT 10 products marketed by the company SEPPIC;

* and their mixtures.

As other examples of aqueous phase thickening polymers, we can cite:

* anionic, cationic, amphoteric or non-ionic chitin or chitosan polymers;

* cellulose polymers, such as alkylcelluloses, such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, hydroxymethylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose;

* vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol;

* polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as galactomannans and their derivatives, such as Konjac gum, Gellan gum, Carob gum, Fennugrec gum, Karaya gum, Tragacanth gum, gum arabic, acacia gum, guar gum, hydroxypropyl guar, hydroxypropyl guar modified with sodium methylcarboxylate groups (Jaguar XC97-1, Rhodia), guar hydroxypropyl tri-methyl ammonium chloride, gum xanthan and its derivatives;

* alginates and carrageenans;

* and their mixtures.

If the composition comprises it, the content of aqueous phase thickener varies from 0.01 to 3% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 2% by weight, and more advantageously from 0.1 to 1% by weight, for example. total ratio to the weight of the composition.

Hydrophobic phase thickeners

As hydrophobic phase thickeners, particular mention may be made of hydrophobic mineral thickeners such as modified clays, modified silicas, or mixtures thereof.

Hydrophobic modified clays

Clays are silicates containing a cation which can be chosen from calcium, magnesium, aluminum, sodium, potassium, lithium cations, and their mixtures.

As examples of such products, we can cite clays from the smectite family, as well as from the vermiculite family, stevensite and chlorites. These clays can be of natural or synthetic origin.

Preferably, organophilic clays are used, more particularly modified clays, such as montmorrillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and their mixtures. The clay is preferably bentonite or hectorite.

These clays are modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

We can thus mention hectorites modified by a quaternary amine, more precisely by a halide, such as a chloride, of ammonium of a C ₁₀ to C ₂₂ fatty acid, comprising or not an aromatic group; such as hectorite modified by a halide, preferably a chloride, of di-stearyl di-methyl ammonium (CTFA name: Disteardimonium hectorite), such as, for example, that marketed under the name Bentone 38V, Bentone 38V CG, Bentone EW CE, by the company ELEMENTIS; stearalkonium Hectorites such as the product Bentone 27 V.

We can also cite quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold, among others, under the names Bentone 34 marketed by the company Elementis, Claytone 40, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst by the company Southern Clay; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18/benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the name Claytone HT by the company Southern Clay

According to a preferred embodiment, the thickening agent is chosen from organophilic modified clays, in particular organophilic modified hectorites, in particular by halides, in particular chlorides, of benzyldimethyl ammonium stearate, or of distearyl dimethyl ammonium.

Modified silicas

We can also cite surface hydrophobic treated fumed silica whose particle size is advantageously less than 1 µm. It is in fact possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica, by chemical reaction generating a reduction in the number of silanol groups present on the surface of the silica. In particular, silanol groups can be substituted with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained. The hydrophobic groups can be:

* trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica silylate” according to the CTFA ( ^6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R812® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-530® by the company CABOT,

* dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane, for example hexamethyldisiloxane, or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called “Silica dimethyl silylate” according to the CTFA ( ^6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references Aerosil R972®, and Aerosil R974® by the company DEGUSSA, CAB-O-SIL TS-610® and CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company CABOT.

The hydrophobic fumed silica in particular has a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least particles of silica aerogels.

Silica aerogels are porous materials obtained by replacing (by drying) the liquid component of a silica gel with air.

They are generally synthesized by a sol-gel process in a liquid medium then usually dried by extraction of a supercritical fluid, the most commonly used being supercritical CO ₂ . This type of drying helps prevent contraction of pores and material. The sol-gel process and the various dryings are described in detail in Brinker CJ., and Scherer GW, Sol-Gel Science: New York: Academic Press, 1990.

The hydrophobic silica aerogel particles suitable for implementing the invention have a specific surface area per unit mass (S _M ) ranging from 500 to 1500 m ² /g, preferably from 600 to 1200 m ² /g and better from 600 to 800 m ² /g, and a size expressed in volume average diameter (D[0.5]) ranging from 1 to 1500 µm, better from 1 to 1000 µm, preferably from 1 to 100 µm, in particularly from 1 to 30 µm, more preferably from 5 to 25 µm, better from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit of mass (S _M ) ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g and a size expressed as volume average diameter. (D[0.5]) ranging from 5 to 20 µm and even better from 5 to 15 µm.

The specific surface area per unit mass can be determined by the nitrogen absorption method called BET method (BRUNAUER – EMMET – TELLER) described in “The journal of the American Chemical Society”, vol. 60, page 309, February 1938 and corresponding to the international standard ISO 5794/1 (annex D). The BET specific surface corresponds to the total specific surface of the particles considered.

The sizes of silica airgel particles can be measured by static light scattering using a commercial MasterSizer 2000 particle size analyzer from Malvern. The data is processed based on Mie diffusion theory. This theory, exact for isotropic particles, makes it possible to determine in the case of non-spherical particles, an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., "Light Scattering by Small Particles," Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

According to a preferred embodiment, the hydrophobic silica aerogel particles used in the present invention have a specific surface area per unit volume S _V ranging from 5 to 60 m ² /cm ³ , preferably from 10 to 50 m ² / cm ³ and better from 15 to 40 m ² /cm ³ .

The aerogels used according to the present invention are hydrophobic silica aerogels, preferably silylated silica (INCI name silica silylate).

Concerning the preparation of hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface modified by silylation, reference can be made to document US 7,470,725.

We will preferably use hydrophobic silica aerogel particles surface modified with trimethylsilyl groups.

As hydrophobic silica aerogels usable in the invention, mention may be made, for example, of the aerogel sold under the name VM-2260 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, the particles of which have an average size of approximately 1000 microns and a specific surface area per unit mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

We can also cite the aerogels marketed by the Cabot company under the references AEROGEL TLD 201, AEROGEL OGD 201, AEROGEL TLD 203, ENOVA® AEROGEL MT 1100, ENOVA AEROGEL MT 1200.

We will preferably use the airgel marketed under the name VM-2270 (INCI name Silica silylate), by the company Dow Corning, whose particles have an average size ranging from 5-15 microns and a specific surface area per unit of mass ranging from 600 to 800 m ² /g.

Preferably, the mineral thickeners are chosen from organophilic clays, in particular modified hectorites; hydrophobically treated fumed silica; hydrophobic silica aerogels, or mixtures thereof, and even more precisely at least one organophilic modified clay or at least one hydrophobic modified silica, in particular an organophilic modified clay.

More particularly, if the composition contains it, the content of hydrophobic phase thickener(s) represents 0.2 to 2.5% by weight, expressed as active material, preferably 0.5 to 2% by weight, relative to the weight. composition total.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “comprising one” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”, unless the contrary is specified.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage of raw materials.

Raw materials are named by their chemical name or their INCI name.

EXAMPLES Example 1

In the following table, the quantity of each compound is given in % w/w of the composition (the percentages are expressed in weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).

INCI US COMPARATIVE COMPOSITION COMPOSITION 1
INVENTION Gellan Gum
(Kelcogel CG LA–CP Kelco) 0.2 0.2 Sucrose Laurate (Surfhope SE COSME C-1216, Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods) 1.5 1.5 Water 2.0 2.0 Red 33 0.04 0.04 Red 7 0.5 0.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 0.7 Ethylcellulose
(aqueous dispersion; 26.2% ethylcellulose; AQUACOAT ECD-30 – FMC Biopolymer) 39.0 36.5 Ethylcellulose (Aqualon EC N7 PHARM, ASHLAND) 4.8 4.8 Yellow 6 0.22 0.22 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 8.0 7.44 Octyldodecanol 34.04 33.1 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (Softisan 100, Cremer Oleo) 7.0 6.5 Ethanol 2.0 2.0 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract
(Candellila Resin E-1 – Japan Natural Products) - 4.5

Operating mode

On the one hand, we mix the capric/caprylic triglyceride, Softisan 100 and part of the octyldodecanol, at 55°C with stirring, then we add this mixture to the Aquacoat ECD at 55°C, with stirring.
The gellan gum is added and stirring is continued for 30 minutes.
Finally, the sucrose laurate is added and stirring is maintained for 45 minutes.
On the other hand, the remaining octyldodecanol is mixed with ethylcellulose N7 at 55°C, with stirring until a gel is obtained. In the case where the composition comprises candelilla resin, the remainder of the octyldodecanol and the ethylcellulose N7 are mixed, with stirring at 90° C. then the candelilla resin is introduced, still stirring, until a product is obtained. homogeneous. This mixture is cooled to 60°C.
The resulting gel is added to the mixture obtained previously, with stirring, for 30 minutes at 55°C (1300 rpm).
The coloring materials are then introduced, with stirring, at 45°C, then the preservatives.
The mixture is left to cool and packaged in a gloss-type bottle (hot water bottle equipped with a flocked applicator - reference 14030, Geka GmbH).

Protocols for assessing hold and resistance to transfer:

1. Sample preparation

The composition is applied to the inside of the forearm by applying 4 layers without dipping the applicator into the hot water bottle, over an area of 2cm x 2cm.
This operation is reproduced so as to have four disguised samples (a control sample, 3 samples to be tested: water, oil, transfer).
The product is left to dry for 30 minutes.

2. Water resistance is assessed by passing a cotton pad soaked in 1 ml of water once over the surface of the first sample. The color of the deposit thus treated and the control deposit are compared.

3. Oil resistance is evaluated by passing a cotton pad soaked in 0.5 ml of olive oil (applied force similar to that of water resistance) once over the surface of the second sample. The color of the deposit thus treated and the control deposit are compared.

4. Transfer resistance is assessed by pressing a tissue over the third sample and observing the amount of lipstick deposited on the tissue.

Evaluation of compositions

In each case, a homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.

Each composition is easily applied to the lips, in a fine and fresh deposit, which does not migrate and sticks very little.

Compositions do not transfer.

It is further noted that the water and oil resistance of the composition according to the invention are significantly improved compared to those of the comparative composition.

Example 2

In the following table, the quantity of each compound is given in % w/w of the composition (the percentages are expressed in weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).

Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) Composition 2 Ethylcellulose
(aqueous dispersion with 26.2% ethylcellulose; Aquacoat ECD-30 – FMC Biopolymer) 40 Octyldodecanol 31 Gellan gum
(Kelcogel CG LA–CP Kelco) 0.15 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract
(Candellila Resin E-1 – Japan Natural Products) 2 Neopentyl Glycol Dicaprate
(Estemol N-01– Nisshin Oillio) 20.85 Cetyl alcohol 1.00 Water 4.90 Red 33 0.10

Operating mode

The neopentyl glycol dicaprate, octyldodecanol, cetyl alcohol and candelilla resin are mixed at 80°C with stirring, then this mixture is cooled to 55°C and added to the Aquacoat ECD at 55°C, under hustle.
The gellan gum is added and stirring is continued for 30 minutes.
The coloring materials are then introduced, with stirring. This mixture is cooled to 30°C then the preservatives are added.
The mixture is allowed to cool and packaged in a gloss-type bottle (bottle fitted with a flocked applicator - reference 14030, Geka GmbH).

Composition evaluation

A homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.

It applies easily to the lips, in a fine and fresh deposit, with very little stickiness. The repository does not migrate.

We also note that the deposit does not transfer and that the composition's resistance to water and oil is very good (protocols of Example 1).

Example 3

In the following table, the quantity of each compound is given in % w/w of the composition (the percentages are expressed in weight of raw material unless otherwise indicated).

Ingredients (INCI name, chemical name) COMPOSITION 3 INVENTION Octyldodecanol 11.55 Sucrose Laurate (Surfhope SE COSME C-1216 - Mitsubishi Kagaku Foods) 1.5 Phenoxyethanol 0.7 Ethylcellulose (AQUALON EC N7 PHARM - Ashland) 3 Octyldodecanol 25.71 Isononyl Isononanoate 4.8 Ethanol 2 Red 33 0.04 Water 7.5 Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 8 Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides (Softisan 100 - Cremer Oleo) 7 Red 7 0.5 Dehydroxanthan Gum
(Amaze XT – Akzo Nobel) 0.2 Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax Extract (Candellila Resin E-1 – Japan Natural Products) 3 Ethylcellulose
(aqueous dispersion with 26.2% ethylcellulose; AQUACOAT ECD-30 – FMC Biopolymer) 24.5

Operating mode

On the one hand, we mix the capric/caprylic triglyceride, Softisan 100 and part of the octyldodecanol, at 55°C with stirring, then we add this mixture to the Aquacoat ECD at 55°C, with stirring.
The xanthan is added and stirring is continued for 30 minutes.
Finally, the sucrose laurate is added and stirring is maintained for 45 minutes.
The rest of the octyldodecanol and the ethylcellulose N7 are mixed, with stirring at 90° C., then the candelilla resin is introduced, still stirring, until a homogeneous mixture is obtained. This mixture is cooled to 60°C.
The resulting gel is added to the mixture obtained previously, with stirring, for 30 minutes at 55°C (1300 rpm).
The coloring materials are then introduced, with stirring, at 45°C, then the preservatives.
The mixture is allowed to cool and packaged in a gloss-type bottle (bottle fitted with a flocked applicator - reference 14030, Geka GmbH).

Composition evaluation

A homogeneous, stable liquid composition is obtained.

It applies easily to the lips, in a fine and fresh deposit, with very little stickiness. The repository does not migrate or transfer (protocol of example 1).

In addition, the composition's resistance to water and oil is very good (protocol defined in Example 1).

Claims (27)

Liquid cosmetic composition in the form of an emulsion comprising:
- ethylcellulose
- at least one natural resin
- at least one first non-volatile oil liquid at 25°C chosen from saturated, unsaturated, linear or branched fatty alcohols, C10-C26;
- at least one second non-volatile polar hydrocarbon oil, liquid at 25°C, different from the first oil and chosen from ester, ether or carbonate oils. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the ethylcellulose content of 4 to 25% by weight, preferably 5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably 6 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which said at least one resin is chosen from: a) acaroid resins, b) ambers, c) Asphaltite and Gilsonite, d) Peruvian balsam, e) Tolu balsam, f) Benzoin resins, g) Canada balsam, h) Copal resins, i) Damars, j) Elémis, k) Incense, l) Galbanums, m) Labdanums, n) Mastic or Mastics, o) Myrrh, p) Sandaraque, q) Shellacs, r) Styrax, s) Venetian Turpentine, t) rosins including Rosin and Rosinate and Tall oils , v) resins extracted from vegetable waxes; and mixtures of these resins; preferably the natural resin(s) are chosen from incense resins and resins extracted from vegetable waxes, and mixtures thereof; said resins being able to be esterified, salified, adducted, modified by phenols, dimerized and/or hydrogenated. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one INCI name resin chosen from: Euphorbia Cerifera Wax Extract, Candellila Wax Extract, Protium Heptaphyllum Resin, Shorea Robusta Resin; and their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin contains at least 30% of terpene compounds, preferably at least 40% by weight of terpene compounds, preferably at least 50% of terpene compounds, and so even more preferably at least 60% terpene compounds, by weight on the total weight of resin. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises at least 10%, preferably at least 20% by weight, preferably at least 30% by weight, preferably at least 35% by weight, of polyterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin comprises less than 70% by weight of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin representing 100%, preferably less than 60% by weight, of preferably less than 50% by weight, preferably less than 30% by weight, preferably less than 15% by weight, of monoterpene or sesquiterpene compounds, on the total weight of the resin. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a number average molecular weight less than or equal to 10,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 10,000 g/mol, preferably less than or equal to 5,000 g/mol, in particular ranging from 250 to 5,000 g/mol, better still, less than or equal to 2,000 g/mol in particular ranging from 250 to 2,000 g/mol and even better less than or equal to 1,000 g/mol notably ranging from 250 to 1,000 g/mol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said resin(s) have a glass transition temperature, this being preferably within the range of 0°C to 200°C, more preferably 10°C at 100°C, even more preferably from 20°C to 90°C and even more preferably from 30°C to 70°C. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the resin has a softening point, preferably in the range from 20°C to 150°C, more preferably from 30°C to 100°C, even more preferably from 40°C to 90°C. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the natural resin content represents 0.5 to 15%% by weight, preferably 0.5% to 10% by weight, even more preferably 0. 5 to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first oil is chosen from lauric alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, alcohol 2 -hexyldecyl, isocetyl alcohol, octyldodecanol, and mixtures thereof; preferably the first oil is octyldodecanol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of first oil varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 20 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one second hydrocarbon oil liquid at 25°C chosen from:
* ethers of formula ROR', carbonates of formula RO(CO)OR', formulas in which, identical or not, the groups R, R' represent a hydrocarbon group comprising at most 16 carbon atoms, saturated or not, branched or not, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₆ ;
* hydroxylated or non-hydroxylated vegetable oils;
* ester oils, optionally hydroxylated, comprising 1 to 4 ester functions, at least one of which is linear or branched, saturated, unsaturated or aromatic, comprises at least 10 carbon atoms;
* liquid polyesters resulting from the reaction of a mono- or polyunsaturated acid dimer, the fatty acid comprising 16 to 22 carbon atoms;
* as well as their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of second oil varies from 2 to 35% by weight, more particularly from 5 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one hydrocarbon compound with an ester function, solid at room temperature, more particularly chosen from:
* vegetable butters,
* totally or partially hydrogenated vegetable oils,
* vegetable waxes,
* beeswax, synthetic beeswax, lanolin wax,
* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids,
* triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C30, optionally hydrogenated,
* waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oil esterified with fatty alcohols such as lauric, stearyl, cetyl, behenyl alcohol,
* esters of formula R ₁ COOR ₂ in which R ₁ and R ₂ represent linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chains whose number of atoms varies from 10 to 50, which may contain a heteroatom, in particular oxygen,
* Hydrocarbon, polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerol waxes, natural or synthetic, of animal or plant origin; the number of oxyalkylenated units (C2-C4) can vary from 2 to 100, the number of glycerol units can vary from 1 to 20,
* polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and esters of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20,
* polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol,
* their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hydrocarbon compound solid at room temperature is chosen from triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono or polyhydroxylated, preferably C12- C18, possibly hydrogenated. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of hydrocarbon compound(s) solid at room temperature, if the composition comprises them, the content of hydrocarbon compound(s) solid(s) at room temperature is between 0 and less than 15% by weight, preferably between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water content varies from 20 to 60% by weight, more particularly from 25 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one C1-C5 monoalcohol, preferably saturated, more particularly at a content of between 0 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises at least one polyol liquid at 15°C and atmospheric pressure chosen from C ₂ -C ₈ hydrocarbon compounds, more particularly C ₃ -C ₆ , saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least two hydroxyl functions, preferably comprising from 2 to 6 hydroxyl groups, more particularly at a content of between 0 and 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition, if it contains any, has a content of non-volatile silicone oil(s), less than or equal to 10% by weight, plus particularly less than or equal to 4% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 2% by weight, and advantageously less than or equal to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously is devoid of it. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition, if it contains any, has a content of volatile hydrocarbon or silicone oil(s) less than or equal to 10% in weight, preferably less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition, if it contains any, has a content of non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil(s) of between 0 and 10% in weight, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and advantageously is devoid of it. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one coloring material, in particular chosen from pigments, dyes, and mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a direct emulsion (oil in water). Process for making up and/or caring for human keratin materials, in particular the skin, the lips, and preferably the lips, consisting of applying the composition claimed according to any one of the preceding claims.