FR3134978A1 - Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated and/or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol, and process using it - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol and a hydroxylated carboxylic acid, and process using it The subject of the invention is a makeup and/or skin care composition and/or or lips, preferably lips, more particularly makeup, comprising:a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;a) at least one polyphenol 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol. The invention also relates to a process for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, in particular the lips, in which the aforementioned composition is applied. Finally, the subject of the invention is a process, consisting of 1) applying the composition according to the invention, said composition comprising at least one coloring material; then 2) to apply a composition (M) comprising at least one oil.

Description

Makeup composition comprising a polyphenol, a polyoxyalkylenated and/or polyglycerol silicone compound, a monoalcohol, and process using it

The subject of the present invention is a makeup and/or skin and/or lip care composition, comprising at least one compound of the polyphenol type, at least one compound Y chosen from linear, branched or reticulated, non-ionic silicones. polyoxyalkylenated and/or polyglycerolated, and at least 25% by weight of a C2-C8 alcohol.

Today on the skin and/or lip care and/or makeup market, many products claim to last all day, resistant to external factors such as water, sebum, food, mechanical friction. etc… These “long-lasting” products for the lips, or for the face, which can be used at home, are mainly based on synthetic coating polymers in the presence of organic solvents, most of the time volatile oils. For example, compositions are known comprising as coating agent a silicone resin, such as for example resins of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type (INCI name) or polypropylsilsesquioxane (INCI name) or even comprising silicone polymers such as silicone acrylate dendrimer copolymers (acrylates/ polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer – INCI name).

In recent years, consumers have been increasingly demanding about the composition of their cosmetic products and are seeking in particular to use products with an increasingly high content of natural ingredients or of natural origin, ingredients whose impact environmental is minimized and/or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging options.

However, the difficulty remains in reconciling these latest trends with the fact that consumers do not want to give up the very high performance to which they are accustomed with the products they already use.

The present invention aims to propose compositions allowing excellent retention of the expected cosmetic effects in particular the color of makeup on the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, particularly makeup removers, such as certain micellar waters and makeup remover wipes, for example.

The present invention aims to propose compositions allowing excellent retention of the expected cosmetic effects in particular the color of makeup on the skin, the lips, which are resistant to mechanical friction, meals, water, sweat and perspiration, sebum, oil, or even cleaning products, particularly makeup removers, such as certain micellar waters and makeup remover wipes, for example.

These and other objectives are achieved by the present invention which relates to a makeup and/or care composition for the skin and/or lips, preferably lips, more particularly makeup, comprising:
a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C ₂ -C ₈ mono-alcohol, more particularly C ₂ -C ₅ , preferably ethanol.

It also relates to a makeup and/or care process consisting of applying to the skin and/or lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition as defined above.

The present invention further relates to a method of making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps:
1) A composition as defined above is applied to the skin and/or lips, said composition comprising at least one coloring material;
2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.

Other aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow.

In the context of the present invention, it is indicated that the skin designates the skin of the face (cheeks, eyelids, eye contour), of the body, of the hands.

The makeup and/or skin and/or lip care compositions according to the invention are cosmetic compositions. This implies that they advantageously comprise a physiologically acceptable environment. By "physiologically acceptable", we mean compatible with the skin and/or lips, which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness), likely to distract the consumer from 'use this composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “hydrogen bond interaction” means an interaction involving a hydrogen atom of one of the two reactants and an electronegative heteroatom of the other reactant such as oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur. and fluorine. In the context of the invention, the hydrogen bond(s) are made between the hydroxyl function(s) (OH) of the reactive phenol group(s). ) of polyphenol X and the hydroxyl group(s) of compound Y capable of reacting by hydrogen bond(s) with polyphenol X.

The present invention comprises more particularly the use of a coating agent obtained by interaction by hydrogen bonds of at least one polyphenol latent state in the composition according to the invention and only fully appears in situ, that is to say once the composition has been applied to the skin and/or lips. In other words, in the composition according to the invention, before its application, the conditions (ingredients, contents) are such that they do not favor the interaction of polyphenol(s) X and compound(s) Y with each other. Preferably, these compounds do not precipitate in the composition before its application.

The composition according to the invention is advantageously in liquid form at room temperature.

By “room temperature” we mean 25°C.

By “atmospheric pressure”, we mean 760 mm of Hg or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pascals.

POLYPHENOL

The polyphenols X which can be used according to the present invention contain in their structure at least two different phenol groups.

By “polyphenol” is meant any compound having in its chemical structure at least two benzene compounds, in free or condensed form, each benzene compound comprising at least one hydroxyl group (OH), preferably at least 2 hydroxyl groups, or even 3 groups. hydroxyls.

By “different phenol groups” we mean chemically different phenol groups.

The polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention can be synthetic or natural. They can be in an isolated state or contained in a mixture, particularly contained in a plant extract. Polyphenols are phenols comprising at least two differently substituted phenolic groups on the aromatic ring.

The two classes of polyphenols are flavonoids and non-flavonoids.

Examples of flavonoids include chalcones such as phloretin, phloridzin, aspalathin or neohesperidin; flavanols such as catechin, fisetin, kaempferol, myricetin, quercetin, rutin, procyanidins, proanthocyanidins, pyroanthocyanidins, theaflavins or thearubigins (or thearubrins); dihydroflavonols such as astilbin, dihydroquercetin (taxifoline), or silibinin; flavanones such as hesperidin, neohesperidin, hesperetin, naringenin, naringin; anthocyanins such as cyanidin, delphinidin, malvidin, peonidin or petunidin; catechistic tannins such as tannic acid; isoflavonoids such as daidzein, or genistein; neoflavanoids; lignans such as pyroresorcinol; and their mixtures.

Among the natural polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite lignins.

As examples of non-flavonoids, we can cite curcuminoids such as curcumin or tetrahydrocurcumin; stilbenoids such as astringin, resveratrol or rhaponticin; aurones such as aureusidine; and their mixtures.

As polyphenols X which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite chlorogenic acid, verbascoside; coumarins substituted by phenols.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polyphenol will be chosen from catechic tannins such as gallotannins chosen from tannic acid; ellagitannins such as epigallocatechin, epigallocatechin gallate, castalagin, vescalagin, vescaline, castaline, casuarictin, castanopsins, excoecarianins, grandinin, gradinin, roburines, pterocarinin, acutissimin, tellimagrandins, sanguiin, potentillin, pedunculagin, geraniin, chebulagic acid, diffusisinic acid, ascorgeraniin, stachyurine, casuarinin, casuariin, punicacortein, coriariin, cameliatannin, isodehydrodigalloyl , dehydrodigalloyl, hellinoyl, punicalagin, rhoipteleanins.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the polyphenol commercial product sold under the name DERMOFEEL PHENON 90 M-C® sold by the company Evonik Nutrition & Care or the commercial product sold under the name TEA POLYPHENOLS GREEN TEA EXTRACT® by the company Tayo Green Power.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the polyphenol procyanidins relative to the total weight of said extract such as the commercial product sold under the name PYCNOGENOL® sold by the company BIOLANDES AROMES.

We will use more particularly as polyphenol X, tannic acid. This compound is notably marketed under the name Brewtan F by the company AJINOMOTO OMNICHEM Nv.

Preferably, the polyphenol content is at least 2% by weight, preferably between 2 and 30% by weight, and even more particularly from 3 to 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

Y COMPOUNDS

The compound(s) Y capable of forming at least two hydrogen bonds with said phenol groups of polyphenol

According to a particular embodiment, the compound(s) Y, in the medium of the composition, do not contain an anionic group in their chemical structure, and in particular are non-ionic.

Preferably, the compound(s) Y is/are chosen from compounds whose molar mass is greater than 200 g/mol, more particularly greater than 350 g/mol.

More particularly, these compounds Y are nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or polyglycerolated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units and/or comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units and/or comprising 2 with 20 glycerolated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester(s) functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as their mixtures.

Preferably, the compound(s) Y is/are chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethyl-siloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG-9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone/PEG -10/15 crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer, dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax and mixtures thereof.

In accordance with a particular embodiment of the invention, the content of compound(s) Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40% by weight relative to the weight. total of said composition.

More particularly, the ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material, to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0 ,5 and 2.

MONO ALCOHOL IN C2-C8

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one C ₂ -C ₈ mono-alcohol, more particularly C ₂ -C ₅ . As examples, mention may be made of ethanol, isopropanol, butanol, and preferably ethanol, isopropanol, and even more preferably ethanol.

Advantageously, the content of C2-C8 mono-alcohol is such that compounds X and Y do not react together in the composition, before its application. Said mono alcohol can thus be considered as an inhibitor of hydrogen bonds. By “hydrogen bond inhibitor agent” is meant any compound capable of preventing the interaction by hydrogen bonds between polyphenol X and compound Y and/or of dissociating the complex formed by said interaction by breaking the hydrogen bonds.

More particularly, the content of C ₂ -C ₈ monoalcohol, preferably C ₂ -C ₅ , and more particularly ethanol, is greater than 25% by weight, preferably between 25 and 98% by weight, more particularly between 30 and 85% by weight and even more particularly between 35 and 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

WATER AND WATER-SOLUBLE SOLVENTS

The composition may optionally include water. It may be demineralized water, or even floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA water. ROCHE POSAY and/or thermal water.

More particularly the water content is less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (D). In accordance with a particularly advantageous embodiment of the invention, the water content of composition (D) is between 0 and 5% by weight, limits included, relative to the total weight of said composition.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the water content is less than 5% by weight, more particularly less than 2% by weight, and more particularly even less than 1% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. According to a particular mode the composition is anhydrous. It should be noted that in such a case, water is not deliberately added to the composition but may be present in small quantities, or even in trace amounts, in the various products used.

If the composition comprises water, then the pH of the aqueous phase is advantageously less than 8.0, more preferably less than 7.0, and more particularly varies from 2 to 6.

The composition may optionally comprise other ingredients or solvents that are soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25°C) such as polyols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene. glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, glycerin, dipropylene glycol; C ₃ -C ₄ ketones, C ₂ -C ₄ aldehydes.

COLORING MATERIAL

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise at least one coloring material, synthetic, natural or of natural origin.

More particularly, the content of coloring material(s) of the composition is advantageously at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, in particular between 0.1 and 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition

The coloring material(s) may be chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Pigments

The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the medium of the composition, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

According to a first particular embodiment, the pigments used are chosen from mineral pigments.

By “mineral pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta2O5, Ti3O5, Ti2O3, TiO, ZrO2 mixed with TiO2, ZrO2, Nb2O5, CeO2, ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D[50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as MasterSizer 3000® from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range ranging from 0.01 µm. at 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D[50] represents the maximum size that 50% of particles present by volume.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, we can cite more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxide, coated with aluminum stearoyl glutamate, for example marketed under the reference NAI® by the company MIYOSHI KASEI.

As mineral pigments usable in the invention, we can also cite mother-of-pearl.

By “pearl”, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

We can also cite, as an example of mother-of-pearl, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition ((A), (B), (C) and/or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then transport them.

The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, “the coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, possibly hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent, so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface pigments.

When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from silicone surfactants; fluorinated surfactants; fluoro-silicone surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

According to another particular mode, the coloring material is an organic, synthetic, natural pigment or of natural origin.

By “organic pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47 005, pigments green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 5800 0, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic and phenolic derivatives as described in the patent
FR 2 679 771.

The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment(s) are preferably present at contents of at least 0.01% by weight, more particularly at least 1% by weight, and even more particularly at least 2% by weight, relative to the weight. of the composition concerned. More particularly, the coloring material content is less than 30% by weight, and more particularly between 0.05 and 30% by weight, and even better from 0.1 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. .

Water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the coloring material is a water-soluble dye or a fat-soluble dye.

By “water-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an aqueous phase or solvents miscible with water and capable of coloring.

By “fat-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with the oily phase and capable of coloring.

As water-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes such as for example FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5, FDC Blue 1.

Among the natural water-soluble dyes we can cite anthocyanins.

As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fat-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet. 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan Red, Sudan Brown.

As an illustration of natural fat-soluble dyes, we can particularly cite carotenes such as β-carotene, α-carotene, lycopene; quinole yellow; xanthophylls such as astaxanthin, antheraxanthin, citranaxanthin, cryptoxanthin, canthaxanthin, diatomoxanthin, flavoxanthin, fucoxanthin, lutein, rhodoxanthin, rubixanthin, siphonaxanthin, violaxanthin, zeaxanthin; annatto; curcumin; quinizarin (Ceres Green BB, D&C Green No. 6, CI 61565, 1,4-Di-p-Toluidinoanthraquinone, Green No. 202, Quinzaine Green SS) and chlorophylls.

The water-soluble or fat-soluble dye(s) are preferably present in the composition at contents of less than 4% by weight, or even less than 2% by weight, more preferably ranging from 0.01 to 2% by weight, and even better from 0. .02 to 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

OILY PHASE

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention, preferably liquid, may comprise an oily phase.

The term “oil phase” means a liquid phase at room temperature and atmospheric pressure comprising at least one fatty substance, different from compounds Y, such as oils, waxes, pasty bodies as well as possibly all organic solvents and ingredients which are soluble or miscible in said phase.

Oils

The oil or oils may be chosen from volatile or non-volatile, polar or non-polar hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, and mixtures thereof.

By “oil”, we mean a liquid fatty substance at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm Hg or 1,013.10 ⁵ Pa). The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organopolysiloxane.

The term “hydrocarbon oil” means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and possibly one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether and carboxylic functions. These oils are therefore distinct from silicone oils.

By “volatile oil” is meant, within the meaning of the invention, any oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic compound, liquid at room temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa, in particular ranging from 2.66 Pa to 13000 Pa, and more particularly ranging from 2.66 Pa to 1300 Pa.

By “non-volatile oil” is meant an oil remaining on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure less than 2.66 Pa, preferably less than 0.13 Pa. As for example, the vapor pressure can be measured using the static method or by the effusion method by isothermal thermogravimetry, depending on the vapor pressure (OECD standard 104).

Volatile hydrocarbon oils

Among the volatile hydrocarbon oils, mention may be made more particularly of those chosen from hydrocarbon oils of the hydrocarbon type (therefore non-polar hydrocarbon oils, consisting solely of carbon and hydrogen) as well as of the ester type. In particular, they can be chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures, and in particular:
- branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, and their mixtures, and for example oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or Permetyls,
- linear alkanes, for example C ₁₁ -C ₁₅ , alone or in mixtures,
- branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ esters, for example iso-hexyl neopentanoate,
- their mixtures.

Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used; volatile linear alkanes such as those described in the patent application of the company Cognis DE10 2008 012 457.

Silicone volatile oils

Among the volatile silicone oils, mention may be made, among others, of linear, branched or cyclic silicone oils such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms, preferably linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes having from 3 to 7 silicon atoms. ; as well as their mixtures.

As an example of such oils, mention may be made of octyltrimethicone, hexyltrimethicone, methyl trimethicone, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, polydimethysiloxanes such as those marketed under the reference DC 200 (1 .5 cSt), DC 200 (3 cSt) by Dow Corning, or even KF 96 A from Shin Etsu; alone or in mixtures.

Polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

By “polar hydrocarbon oil” we mean an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and also comprising at least one oxygen atom. More particularly, such an oil comprises one or more functions chosen from hydroxyl, ester, ether, carboxylic, and preferably hydroxyl, ester, ether functions.

As an example of a non-volatile hydrocarbon oil which can be used in the invention, the following can be cited:
- triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular the fatty acids of which may have chain lengths varying from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, candlenut, passionflower, muscat rose; shea oil; or even caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810®, 812® and 818® by the company Dynamit Nobel;
- linear aliphatic hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR' in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue comprising from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, with at least such that cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, stearate or isostearate isopropyl, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate , tridecyl octanoate, 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate isostearyl, octyl-2-docecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, oleyl erucate; isocetyl stearate, isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl behenate;
- polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4- butanediol. In particular, we can cite in this respect the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: Dilinoleic Acid/Butane diol Copolymer), or even copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA ® ;
- esters and polyesters of linear fatty acids having a total carbon number ranging from 35 to 80 such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate, pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate;
- aromatic esters and polyesters such as tridecyl trimellitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, 2-phenyl ethyl ester of benzoic acid, butyl octyl salicylate;
- esters and polyesters of dimer diol and mono-or dicarboxylic acid, such as esters of dimer diol and fatty acid and esters of dimer diol and dimer dicarboxylic acid, for example with INCI name: Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate, such as Lusplan DD-DA5® and Lusplan DD-DA7® marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the content of which is incorporated into this application by reference;
- fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol;
- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms such as dicaprylyl ether;
- di-alkyl carbonates, the two alkyl chains which may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis;
- and their mixtures.

Non-polar non-volatile hydrocarbon oils

The oil can also be chosen from non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably saturated.

The non-volatile non-polar hydrocarbon oil(s), linear or branched, are more particularly compounds comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms (in other words, non-volatile oils of hydrocarbon type).

Said non-polar oils, linear or branched, can be of mineral or synthetic origin such as for example:
- paraffin oil,
- squalane,
- isoeicosane,
- mixtures of linear, saturated hydrocarbons, more particularly C ₁₅ -C ₂₈ , such as mixtures whose INCI names are for example the following: C15-19 Alkane (INCI name), C18-21 Alkane (INCI name) , C21-28 Alkane (INCI name), such as for example the products Gemseal 40, Gemseal 60, Gemseal 120 marketed by Total, Emogreen L19 marketed by SEPPIC,
- polybutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example products from the Indopol range marketed by the company INEOS Oligomers,
- polyisobutenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds from the Parléam® range marketed by the company NIPPON OIL FATS,
- polydecenes, hydrogenated or not, such as for example non-volatile compounds from the PURESYN® range marketed by the company Exxonmobil),
- and their mixtures.

Non-volatile silicone oils

The non-volatile oil can also be chosen from phenyl or non-phenylated silicone non-volatile oils. More particularly, said silicone oils are devoid of (poly)alkoxylated groups, such as in particular (poly)ethoxylated or (poly)propoxylated groups, or (poly)glycerolated groups.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “silicone oil” means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group.

More particularly, the non-volatile silicone oil, phenylated or non-phenylated, is chosen from dimethicones, trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane, tetramethyl tetraphenyl trisiloxane, diphenyl dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, phenyltrimethicone, diphenylsiloxy phenyl trimethicone, as well as mixtures thereof. .

These products are notably marketed under the names PH-1555 HRI Cosmetic Fluid (Trimethyl Pentaphenyl Trisiloxane), Dow Corning 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (Phenyltrimethicone) by Dow Corning; Diphenyl Dimethicone such as the products KF-54, KF54HV, KF-50-300CS, KF-53 d, KF-50-100CS or Diphenylsiloxy Phenyl Trimethicone KF56 A marketed by Shin Etsu, marketed by Shin Etsu; the products Belsil PDM 1000, Belsil PDM 20 marketed by Wacker Chemie (Trimethylsiloxy Phenyl Dimethicone), alone or in mixtures. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25°C (ASTM D-445 standard).

More particularly, the concentration in the oily phase of composition (D) is between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of said composition.

According to a first variant of the invention, if the oily phase is present in the composition, then it comprises at least one non-volatile oil.

According to another variant of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably a siliconized volatile oil. Preferably, the content of volatile silicone oil is less than or equal to 20% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

In accordance with another embodiment of the invention, the oily phase is present and comprises at least one volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based. More particularly the content of volatile oil, preferably hydrocarbon, is less than or equal to 20% by weight, in particular less than or equal to 10% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 9% by weight, preferably less than or equal to 8 % by weight and even more precisely less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition does not include volatile silicone oil.

Raincoats

The composition may optionally comprise at least one wax.

By “wax” within the meaning of the present invention is meant a lipophilic compound, solid at 25°C, with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 40°C which can go up to 120°C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in standard ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting temperature of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

The measurement protocol is as follows:
A wax sample of approximately 5 mg is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule crucible.
The sample is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 120°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled from 120°C to -20°C at a rate of cooling of 10°C / minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 120°C at a heating rate of 5°C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the melting temperature value of the solid fatty substance is measured which corresponds to the value of the top of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.

Waxes can be hydrocarbon-based, silicone-based, and of plant, mineral, animal and/or synthetic origin.

More particularly, the waxes are chosen from non-polar hydrocarbon waxes, polar hydrocarbon waxes, preferably esters, as well as mixtures thereof.

Among the nonpolar hydrocarbon waxes (that is to say comprising only carbon and hydrogen atoms in their structure), we can in particular cite polyethylene waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffin waxes, ozokerite , polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fischer-Tropsch synthesis, microwaxes in particular of polyethylene, as well as their mixtures.

Among the polar hydrocarbon waxes (therefore comprising carbon, hydrogen and oxygen atoms), waxes advantageously comprising at least one alcohol, ester and/or ether group are suitable.

In particular, hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax and lanolin wax can be used as wax; sunflower wax, rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Japanese wax, Berry wax, shellac wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, as well as their mixtures.

We can also cite waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having fatty chains, linear or branched, in C ₈ -C ₃₂ . Among these, we can notably cite hydrogenated jojoba oil, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil. , di-(1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrastearate sold under the name "HEST 2T-4S®" by the company HETERENE, di-(1,1,1-trimethylol propane) tetrabehenate sold under the name name HEST 2T-4B® by the company HETERENE.

Also suitable are waxes of the (hydroxystearyloxy) C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate type, alone or in a mixture, or a C ₂₀ -C ₄₀ alkyl stearate. Such waxes are sold in particular under the names “Kester Wax K 82 P®”, “Hydroxypolyester K 82 P®”, “Kester Wax K 80 P®”, or “KESTER WAX K82H” by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

As an alcohol wax, we can cite mixtures of linear, saturated, C ₃₀ -C ₅₀ alcohols such as for example Performacol 550-L Alcohol wax from New Phase Technology, stearic alcohol and cetyl alcohol.

The content of wax(es), if the composition includes any, varies between 0.1 to 5% by weight, more particularly from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Paste compounds

By "pasty compound", within the meaning of the present invention, is meant a lipophilic fatty compound with a reversible solid/liquid state change, and comprising at a temperature of 20°C a liquid fraction and a solid fraction. Thus, a pasty compound may have a starting melting temperature lower than 20°C. Furthermore, the pasty compound can have an anisotropic crystalline organization in the solid state. The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is determined according to the same principle as that detailed previously for waxes.

In the case of a pasty compound, the measurement protocol is however as follows:
A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance placed in a crucible is subjected to an initial rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C, at a heating rate of 10°C/minute, then is cooled by 100°C. C to -20°C at a cooling rate of 10°C/minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20°C to 100°C at a heating rate of 5°C/minute.
The melting point of the pasty fatty substance is the temperature value corresponding to the top of the peak of the curve representing the variation in the difference in absorbed power as a function of temperature.
It should be noted that the liquid fraction by weight of the pasty fatty substance at room temperature is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at room temperature to the enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is the enthalpy consumed by the latter to go from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the solid state when its entire mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty fatty substance is said to be in the liquid state when its entire mass is in liquid form.
The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fat is the amount of energy required to change the pasty fat from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J/g. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty fatty substance is equal to the area under the curve of the thermogram obtained.

Preferably, this or these pasty hydrocarbon compounds are chosen from:

- vegetable butters, such as for example mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex® 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, shea butter, in particular that whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii ButteR, such as that marketed under the Sheasoft® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, cupuacu butter (Rain forest RF3410 from the company Beraca Sabara), murumuru butter (RAIN FOREST RF3710 from the company Beraca Sabara), cocoa butter, babassu butter such as that marketed under the name Cropure® Babassu by Croda, as well as orange wax such as, for example, that which is marketed under the reference Orange Peel Wax by the company Koster Keunen,

- partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, such as for example hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the mixture of hydrogenated soya vegetable oil, copra, palm and rapeseed, for example the mixture marketed under the reference Akogel® by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), the partially hydrogenated trans isomerized jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by the company Desert Whale under the commercial reference Iso -Jojoba-50®, partially hydrogenated olive oil such as, for example, the compound marketed under the reference Beurrolive by the company Soliance,

- esters of hydrogenated castor oil and C16-C22 fatty acids, in particular isostearic acid such as the compound named INCI Hydrogenated Castor Oil Isostearate, for example SALACOS HCIS (V-L) sold by the company NISSHIN OIL ,

- triglycerides of fatty acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally mono- or poly-hydroxylated, preferably C12-C18, optionally hydrogenated (totally or partially); such as for example glycerides of C12-C18 saturated fatty acids marketed under the name Softisan 100® by the company Cremer Oleo (INCI name: Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides),

- polyesters resulting from the condensation of a linear or branched C6-C10 dicarboxylic acid and ester of diglycerol and monocarboxylic acids, optionally hydroxylated, linear or branched, in C6-C20, such as in particular the ester obtained by condensation of adipic acid and a mixture of diglycerol esters with a mixture of C6-C20 fatty acids such as caprylic acid, capric acid, stearic acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, and INCI name Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2. This type of compound is notably marketed under the reference Softisan® 649 by the company Cremer Oleo.

- polyesters obtained from an acid dimer, said acid being unsaturated and comprising from 16 to 24 carbon atoms, and at least one alcohol or polyol, such as for example:
* esters of dimer diol (for example of dilinoleic alcohol) and of dilinoleic acid whose hydroxyl groups are esterified with a mixture of phytosterols, behenyl alcohol and isostearyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool G by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Bis-Behenyl / Isostearyl / Phytosteryl Dimer Dilinoleyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of dilinoleic acid and a mixture of phytosterols, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and behenyl alcohol, for example the ester sold under the name Plandool H or Plandool S by the company Nippon Fine Chemical (INCI name: Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate);
* esters of hydrogenated castor oil and dilinoleic acid, such as those sold under the names RISOCAST-DA-L or RISOCASTDA-H by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO (INCI name: Hydrogenated Castor Oil Dimer Dilinoleate).

Preferably, if the composition comprises them, the pasty hydrocarbon compound(s) are chosen from vegetable butters, partially hydrogenated vegetable oils, compounds with the INCI name Phytosteryl/Isostearyl/Cetyl/Stearyl/Behenyl Dimer Dilinoleate, Hydrogenated Coco-Glycerides, Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2 as well as their mixtures.

If the composition comprises at least one pasty hydrocarbon compound, its/their content is more particularly less than or equal to 20% by weight, preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

COSMETIC ADDITIVES

The composition of the invention may contain usual additives in cosmetics. These include antioxidants, preservatives, neutralizers, gelling agents or thickeners, surfactants, cosmetic active ingredients such as emollients, moisturizers, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

Antioxidants

In particular, the antioxidant agents are used to prevent the oxidation of polyphenol thiols especially cysteine. We can also mention carotenes and lycopenes which also play the role of fat-soluble dyes.

These additives may be present in compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the planned addition.

Compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

The compositions (A), (B), (C) and/or (D) used according to the invention may be care, makeup, or hybrid products (with a care and makeup valence) of keratin materials such as skin, eye contour, lips.

MAKEUP AND/OR CARE PROCESSES

According to a first variant of the invention, the composition is applied to the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips.

According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention is implemented in the following steps:
1) A composition as defined above is applied to the skin and/or lips, said composition preferably comprising at least one coloring material;
2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated.

The application of the compositions is advantageously carried out without mixing. More particularly, it is preferred that the composition of the second step is applied once that of the first step has at least partially dried. As an indication, the second step is carried out a few minutes after the first

When the process is implemented in the presence of compositions that do not include coloring material(s), we speak of a cosmetic care process.

If the process is carried out in the presence of at least one coloring material, then we speak of a cosmetic makeup process, possibly a hybrid process (i.e. skincare and makeup)

Preferably, the process according to the invention is implemented with a composition according to the invention comprising at least one coloring material.

Composition (M)

The composition (M) comprises at least one oil. We can refer to the description of the oils indicated previously.

The composition (M) also optionally comprises at least one coloring material chosen from those defined above.

The composition (M) may advantageously comprise at least one silicone or non-silicone film-forming polymer, or a mixture.

As examples of silicone film-forming polymers, we can in particular cite silicone resins, such as resins whose INCI names are the following: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, as well as their mixtures. The following INCI name polymers are also suitable: acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxymethacrylate copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone, as well as their mixtures.

The film-forming polymer can also be chosen from ethylcellulose, or ethylenic block copolymers such as for example acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer (INCI name).

If the composition (M) comprises it, the content of film-forming polymer(s) advantageously varies between 0.1 and 50% by weight, more particularly from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. (M).

The composition (M) may also contain one or more ingredients commonly used in this type of product such as pasty compounds, in particular hydrocarbon compounds such as for example compounds such as vegetable butters (for example shea butter) ester compounds derived from dimerdiol dimerdilinoleate (for example bis-behenyl/isostearyl/phytosteryl dimer dilinoleyl dimer dilinoleate) or bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2; waxes, in particular hydrocarbon, polar (for example of the ester type) or non-polar (for example polyethylene, microscrystalline wax, etc.); organic solvents; thickeners; fillers, colorless or white, lamellar, spherical or in the form of fibers; cosmetic active ingredients such as vitamins, UV sun filters, moisturizing agents, antioxidant agents.

The composition (M) may or may not include water.

The composition (M) can be a product, in particular for makeup and/or skin care, the face, the cheeks, the eye contour. If these compositions (M) are intended for makeup, they then contain at least one coloring material as defined above.

The compositions (M) for the skin are preferably gels, creams, milks or lotions. They can be aqueous dispersions, anhydrous oily compositions or multiphase compositions such as oil-in-water emulsions, water-in-oil emulsions, two- or three-phase compositions.

The compositions (M) for the skin can also be in solid and hot-cast form.

The compositions (M) for the skin, in particular for makeup, can also be eye shadows or blush, and are more particularly in the form of loose or compact powder.

By “compact powder” is meant a mass of product whose cohesion is ensured at least in part by compaction during manufacturing.

By “loose powder”, we mean a mass of product which is capable of collapsing under its own weight; such a mass being formed of particles which are mainly isolated and mobile relative to each other.

The makeup compositions (M) in the form of loose or compact powder, preferably anhydrous, generally comprise at least one powder phase, in a content in particular greater than or equal to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, comprising at least minus a filler which may represent a content greater than or equal to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition (M) can be a product intended to be applied to the lips, in particular a lipstick, a lip gloss (gloss) or a lip balm.

The compositions (M) for the lips can be in solid form such as a stick or products in a cup or even in liquid form.

They can be anhydrous or aqueous, in particular water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsions.

The composition (M) can also be an eyeliner which is preferably an aqueous composition with at least one film-forming polymer, in particular in the form of a dispersion of particles (latex).

PACKAGING AND APPLICATORS

The compositions (A), (B) (C), (D) and/or (M) according to the invention can each be packaged in a container delimiting at least one compartment which comprises said composition, said container being closed by an element closing.

The container can be in any suitable form. It can be in particular in the form of a bottle, a tube, a pot, a case.

The closure element can be in the form of a removable cap, a lid, a cover, in particular of the type comprising a body fixed to the container and a cap hinged to the body. It can also be in the form of an element ensuring the selective closure of the container, in particular a pump, a valve, or a valve.

The container can be associated with an applicator, for example in the form of a brush (as described for example in patent FR 2 722 380), in the form of an element, deformable or not, made of foam or elastomer, flocked or not. The applicator can also be free (sponge) or integral with a rod carried by the closure element, as described for example in US patent 5,492,426. The applicator can be integral with the container, as described by example in patent FR 2 761 959.

The product can be contained directly in the container, or indirectly.

The closure element can be coupled to the container by screwing. Alternatively, the coupling between the closure element and the container is done otherwise than by screwing, in particular via a bayonet mechanism, by snap-fastening, or by tightening. By “latching” we mean in particular any system involving the crossing of a bead or a cord of material by elastic deformation of a portion, in particular of the closing element, then by returning to the non-elastically constrained position of said portion after crossing the bead or cord.

The container may be at least partly made of thermoplastic material. As examples of thermoplastic materials, we can cite polypropylene or polyethylene.

The container may have rigid walls or deformable walls, in particular in the form of a tube or a tube bottle.

The container may include means intended to cause or facilitate distribution of the composition. For example, the container may have deformable walls so as to cause the composition to escape in response to an excess pressure inside the container, which excess pressure is caused by elastic (or non-elastic) crushing of the container walls. .

The container can be equipped with a wiper placed near the opening of the container. Such a wiper allows you to wipe the applicator and possibly the rod to which it can be attached. Such a wiper is described for example in patent FR 2 792 618.

Throughout the description, including the claims, the expression “comprising one” should be understood as being synonymous with “comprising at least one”, unless the contrary is specified.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

In addition, the sum of the quantities of the ingredients of the composition represents 100% by weight of the composition.

The invention is illustrated in more detail by the examples presented below.

Unless otherwise indicated, the quantities indicated are expressed as a mass percentage.

The examples which follow are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention.

Examples

Example 1: one-step process

The following compositions were prepared:

Ingredients (INCI name) Comparison Invention 1 Invention 2 Tannic acid
(Brewtan F - Ajinomoto Omnichem Nv) 5 5 10 PEG-9 polydimethyl-siloxyethyl dimethicone
(KF 6028-SHIN ETSU) 5 PEG-10 Dimethicone
(KF-6017 - Shin Etsu) 10 Red 7
(Unipure Red LC 3079 OR – Sensient) 10 10 5 Ethanol Qsp 100 qsp 100 Qsp 100

Preparation process
With Rayneri stirring, dissolve the tannic acid (polyphenol X) in the solvent(s) at room temperature.
Once the tannic acid has dissolved, always add the silicone compound Y with stirring.
After obtaining a homogeneous mixture, add the coloring matter and continue stirring until completely homogenized.
Condition

Application of compositions

The compositions are easily applied to the lips, in a homogeneous and fine, comfortable deposit. The deposit does not leak.

Once dry, it is almost imperceptible, with no transfer (e.g. kiss test, for example on a cup).

Dry, water and oil resistance was evaluated according to the protocol below.

Performance evaluation protocol

1. Preparing for the test:

Support: Supplale beige (2.5 x 5 cm) (marketed by Soudotique).

Spread the composition (D) over the entire surface 3 times in a row to have a homogeneous deposit. Repeat the operation on two other strips.
Leave the deposit to dry on a plate heated to 34°C for 30 minutes.
If necessary, take a photo of each support with the deposit (made up) before solicitation.

2. Requests:

Preparing a tissue for each request:
Fold each tissue twice on the long edge then twice in the other direction to form a square.

Dry resistance:

Rub once with the handkerchief folded lengthwise one of the three made-up supports; the force applied is that normally exerted when removing makeup from the skin or lips.
Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring.
Possibly take a photo.

In the event that several passes are carried out, they would then be carried out with the same force and always in the same direction (i.e.: after each pass, the tissue is lifted to be repositioned at the "beginning" of the strip in order to be reapplied to the deposit in the same way as in the previous passage). Possibly take a photo between each step or only at the end of the evaluation. This type of process can be implemented to evaluate the overall resistance of the deposit.

Water resistance :

Insert the second made-up support without bending it into a centrifuge tube.
Add 10 grams of demineralized water.
Centrifuge for 10 minutes at 450g.
Possibly take a photo of the support after mixing, immediately after the operation.
Rub once with a tissue along the length of the support, without waiting, with the same force as that applied for dry resistance.
Observe the condition of the rubbed support as well as the used surface of the tissue, in particular the remaining coloring, the transferred coloring.
Possibly take a photo.

The protocol for several passes is the same as that detailed previously for dry resistance.

Oil resistance:

Implement the same protocol as for water resistance, on the third stained support, replacing the water with the same quantity of olive oil (Refined Olive Oil – Aarhuskarlshamn).

Rating:

For each request, note the result according to the table below:

Note Deposit status Surface of the fabric in contact with the deposit - -
Total or partial elimination of the deposit on the rubbed area; the surface of the support appears in places Very intense coloring – very significant transfer to total color -
Partial elimination leading to significantly and visibly less intense coloring of the deposit. Intense coloring – significant color transfer +
Reduction in the intensity of the color of the deposit which is perceptible but does not reveal the support Medium coloring – medium color transfer ++
No substantial variation in the color of the deposit Light coloring – little color transfer +++
No variation in the color of the deposit No staining or barely visible staining – no to very little color transfer

It should be noted that to facilitate the evaluation of the resistance of the deposit, it includes at least one coloring material whose coloring is sufficiently intense (for example a red coloring material, such as Red 7 in particular).

When comparing several compositions, they have the same color (same quantity and same coloring matter).

It should be noted that the resistance of the deposit, as well as other properties (homogeneity, comfort, etc.) can also be evaluated by a Sensory Panel (group of trained experts making it possible to obtain a description of technical characteristics - ISO standards 8586, ISO 11132, ISO 13299).

Results  :

Composition Resistance to dry friction Resistance to water friction Resistance to oil friction Comparison ++ + ++ invention 1 +++ +++ ++ invention 2 +++ +++ ++

Example 2: two-step process (Association of a composition and a composition (M))

The following compositions (M) were prepared

Composition (M1)

Ingredients (INCI name) Quantity
% in weight Isododecane qsp 100 Trimethylsiloxysilicate (SR 1000 - Momentive Performance Materials) 17.5 Lauroyl lysine 1.5 Disteardimonium hectorite (and) propylene carbonate (Bentone Gel ISD V® - Elementis) 26 Isododecane 20 Nylon-611/dimethicone copolymer (Dow Corning 2-8179 Gellant – Dow Corning) 11 C30-45 alkyldimethylsilyl polypropylsilsesquioxane (Dow Corning SW-8005 C30 Resin Wax – Dow Corning) 0.5

Preparation process
With Rayneri stirring, mix all the compounds together directly at 70°C.
Once tannic acid.
Leave to stir until the mixture is smooth and allow to cool to room temperature.
Condition.

Application of compositions

We first apply one of the compositions (Invention 1, Invention 2) of Example 1 so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit on the support (base coat).

Then, once the first composition has dried, a composition (M1) or (M2) (top coat) is applied on top without mixing, according to the following combinations:

Essay Trial 1 Test 2 Base coat Invention 1 Invention 2 Top coat (M1) (M2)

The performance assessment test conditions are the same as those detailed for Example 1, as are the ratings.

Results  :

Essay Resistance to dry friction Resistance to water friction Resistance to oil friction Trial 1 +++ +++ +++ Test 2 +++ +++ +++

Claims (19)

Composition for makeup and/or care for the skin and/or the lips, preferably for the lips, more particularly for makeup, comprising
a) at least one polyphenol X comprising at least two different phenol groups;
b) b) at least one compound Y chosen from linear, branched or crosslinked silicone compounds, preferably nonionic polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or polyglycerolated compounds;
c) c) at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of at least one C2-C8 mono-alcohol, more particularly C2-C5, preferably ethanol. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol X is chosen from catechic tannins, in particular chosen from gallotannins and ellagitannins. Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol . Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the polyphenol . Composition according to any one of claims 1 or 2, characterized in that the polyphenol X is tannic acid. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphenol content is at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight and even more particularly 5 to 25% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is chosen from nonionic, linear, branched or crosslinked, polyoxyethylenated and/or polyoxypropylenated and/or polyglycerolated polydimethylsiloxanes comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated and/or units comprising from 2 to 50 oxypropylenated units and/or comprising from 2 to 20 glycerolated units, optionally comprising an alkyl group comprising from 6 to 22 carbon atoms; nonionic polydimethylsiloxanes with ester(s) functions, polyoxyethylenated, comprising from 2 to 50 oxyethylenated units; as well as their mixtures. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that compound Y is chosen from the following compounds designated by their INCI name: PEG-10 dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone, PEG-9 polydimethyl-siloxyethyl dimethicone, lauryl PEG- 9 polydimethylsiloxyethyl dimethicone, dimethicone/PEG-10/15 crosspolymer, PEG/PPG-17/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-22/24 Dimethicone, PEG-12 dimethicone/PPG-20 crosspolymer, dimethicone/polyglycerin-3 crosspolymer, bis-PEG-12 dimethicone candelillate, Bis-PEG-12 dimethicone beeswax as well as mixtures thereof. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of compound Y represents at least 1% by weight, more particularly at least 2% by weight, preferably 5 to 40% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ratio of the mass of polyphenol X, expressed as active material to the mass of compound(s) Y, expressed as active material, varies between 0.25 and 3, preferably between 0.5 and 2. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the C2-C8 monoalcohol content is between 25 and 98% by weight, in particular between 30 and 90% by weight, preferably between 35 and 85% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition optionally comprises water, more particularly in a content less than or equal to less than or equal to 15% by weight, more particularly less than or equal to 10% by weight. weight, less than or equal to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oily phase, more particularly at a content of between 1 and 60% by weight, preferably between 1 and 50% by weight, relative to the total weight. of said composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile silicone oil Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises an oily phase comprising at least one volatile hydrocarbon oil, at a content less than or equal to 10% by weight, preferably less than 8% by weight and further more precisely less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one synthetic, natural or natural coloring material; in particular chosen from coated or uncoated pigments, water-soluble dyes, fat-soluble dyes, and mixtures thereof. Makeup and/or care process consisting of applying to the skin and/or lips, preferably to the lips, at least one composition according to any one of the preceding claims. Process for making up the skin and/or the lips, preferably the lips, consisting of implementing the following steps:
1) A composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16 is applied to the skin and/or lips, said composition preferably comprising at least one coloring material;
2) A composition (M) comprising at least one oil is applied to the skin and/or lips thus treated. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (M) comprises at least one film-forming polymer, for example chosen from silicone resins, silicone acrylate type copolymers, ethylenic block polymers, ethylcellulose, as well as their mixtures, preferably from the following INCI name compounds: trimethylsiloxysilicate, phenylpropyldimethylsiloxysilicate, polypropylsilsesquioxane, polymethylsilsesquioxane, acrylates/polytrimethylsiloxy-methacrylate copolymer, acrylates/dimethicone, ethylcellulose, acrylic acid/isobutyl acrylate/isobornyl acrylate copolymer, or their mixtures..