FR2885037A1 - Make-up kit for keratinous materials, useful for make-up for the lips e.g. lipsticks, anti-ring products or eye shadows, comprises a primary composition comprising a tensor agent and a secondary composition comprising coloring material - Google Patents

Abstract

Make-up kit for keratinous materials comprises a primary composition comprising a tensor agent and a secondary composition comprising coloring material at >=13 wt.%. An independent claim is included for a process of cosmetic treatment, preferably for make of keratinous materials, comprising application of the primary composition and secondary compositions.

Description

The present invention relates to a makeup kit for materials

  keratinic useful to reduce or hide their imperfections, as well as its method of implementation.

  It is common to try to hide the imperfections of the skin and in particular of the face or the neck with the aid of foundations.

  Conventional foundations usually provide a lot of coverage and are useful for mattifying the complexion and masking skin color imperfections, such as redness, but not always suitable to mask also relief defects such as wrinkles or pores dilated skin. The same type of problem arises for lipsticks when it is a question of masking defects of the parched or chapped lips type.

  During application, an accumulation of coloring agents (pigments or nacres) is observed in the infractuosities, which degrades the homogeneity of the makeup.

  This defect is particularly problematic for women who have wrinkled skin and wish to use highly pigmented complexion products to hide their spots.

  It is therefore important that the support is as smooth as possible before applying the colored product, in order to obtain a satisfactory makeup.

  WO 02/15873 discloses a skin or hair composition containing an inorganic colloid having a glass transition temperature greater than 25 ° C. and an elastomeric polymer having a glass transition temperature of less than 40 ° C. This composition may optionally be take the form of a kit. However, it is a smoothing / stretching effect that is sought after. In other words, it is sought in this document to avoid fracking phenomena or peeling of the composition after application.

  Furthermore, the document WO 03/105787 describes foundations in kit form, the first composition may comprise cosmetic agents of very variable chemical nature, none of which has a tensor effect.

  There remains therefore a need to have a makeup kit of keratin materials to obtain a homogeneous makeup and covering not highlighting the relief defects described above.

  The inventors have found that the combination, in the form of a kit, of two compositions, the first of which comprises a tensioning agent and the second is a covering composition, makes it possible to solve the problems described above.

  The subject of the present invention is therefore, according to one of its aspects, a keratin material makeup kit comprising at least: (i) a first composition comprising at least one tensioning agent, and (ii) a second composition comprising a content of at least one dyestuff greater than or equal to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of said second composition.

  The subject of the present invention is furthermore, according to a second of its aspects, a process for cosmetic treatment, in particular for making up keratin materials, comprising at least: the application of a first composition comprising at least one tensioning agent, and the application of a second composition comprising a dyestuff content greater than or equal to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of said second composition.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "keratin materials" is intended to denote the skin, in particular the face, the eyelids and / or the neck and the lips. In other words, it is non-fibrous keratin materials.

  In the context of the present invention, the term "tensioning agent" is intended to mean compounds that can have an apparent tensor effect, that is to say, to smooth the skin and / or the lips and to reduce or even eliminate Immediate way wrinkles, fine lines and pores.

  The term "covering composition" in the context of the present invention, a composition comprising a dye content greater than or equal to 13% by weight of said composition. Classically, it is further considered that beyond a content by weight of 20%, one is in the presence of a "very covering composition".

  The "first composition" can also be called "basecoat" and the "second composition" can be called "topcoat".

  The makeup kits in accordance with the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is compatible in particular with keratin materials such as skin and lips.

  For the sake of simplicity, when the term "the compositions according to the invention" is used, it denotes indifferently the first composition or the second composition.

FIRST COMPOSITION

  The application of the first composition has the function of preparing the skin or the lips for the application of the second composition which is dedicated to providing a satisfactory aesthetic effect essentially in terms of masking color imperfections because of its important covering power. .

  Tensing agent The first composition or basecoat contains a tensioning agent which may take the form of a mixture of such tensors.

  There are tensor carriers, namely solubilized or dispersed, in the oil and tensor carriers, ie solubilized or dispersed, in an aqueous phase.

  In the context of the present invention, this second category of tensing agents is preferred.

  The tensor agent (s) present in the first composition is (are) preferably not an absorbent. In particular, it (s) does not absorb (s) sebum or perspiration may be present on the surface of the skin or lips.

  The tensor agent (s) may be selected from: protein and hydrolysates of vegetable proteins, such as derived from maize, rye, wheat, buckwheat, sesame, pepper, pea, bean, lentil, soy and lupine as those described in WO 98/29091, polymers of natural origin such as polysaccharides, starch, polyholosides such as carrageenans, alginates, agars, gellans, cellulosic polymers and pectins, or else chosen from the latices consisting of shellac resin, sandorac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose derivatives and mixtures thereof, nanometric mineral particles such as silica, cerium oxide, zirconium oxide, alumina, calcium carbonate, barium sulfate, calcium sulphate, zinc oxide, titanium dioxide , platinum, these particles being in colloidal form, or mixed colloidal particles such as titanium dioxides coated once or several times, such as silica-coated titanium dioxide, polymer systems in aqueous dispersion, in particular certain latices and in particular that described in WO 98 / 29092, the polymer of synthetic origin can be chosen from various types of polyurethanes, for example AVALURE UR-405 and UR410 from the company NOVEON and the NEOREZ R-981 and NEOREZ R-974 from the company AVECIA-NEORESINS and the SANCURE 875, SANCURE 861, SANCURE 878 and SANCURE 2060 from the company GOODRICH, polyureas, polymers or acrylic copolymers, for example NEOCRYL XK-90 from the company AVECIANEORESINS or certain specific grafted silicone polymers such as that sold by the company 3M under the reference VS-80 or such as those described in document EP 1 038 519 or the copolymers described in document WO 00/30595, mixed silicates, namely silicates of natural or synthetic origin containing several types of cations chosen from alkali metals (for example Na, Li, K) or alkaline earth metals (for example Be, Mg, Ca) and metals transition, interpenetrating networks of polymers such as those described in document FR 2 822 676, and - their mixtures.

  The term "nanometric particles" means particles having a diameter ranging from 0.1 to 500 nm and preferably from 1 to 100 nm, and more preferably from 3 to 30 nm.

  Particularly preferred silicates include laponites. Laponites are magnesium, lithium and sodium silicates with a layered structure similar to that of montmorillonites. Lapponite is the synthetic form of the natural mineral called "hectorite". For example, laponite sold under the name Laponite XLS or Laponite XLG may be used by Rockwood.

  The first composition may comprise such a tensioning agent alone or as a mixture in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 15% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight. 7% by weight relative to the weight of said first composition.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the tensioning agent comprises at least colloidal silica. Its content in the first composition may then range from 0.01 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 7% by weight, relative to the total weight of said first composition.

  By "colloidal silicas" is meant, within the meaning of the present application, colloidal particles of silica dispersed in an aqueous medium, hydroalcoholic, alcoholic.

  These colloidal silicas are especially described in patent applications EP 1 264 590, EP 1 352 626, FR 2 843 024, EP 1 419 762 and FR 2 859 631, the teaching of which is incorporated herein by reference.

  By way of example, colloidal silicas may be mentioned as commercial references, such as the COSMO S 40 marketed by CATALYSTS & CHEMICALS and colloidal silica-aluminas, such as the LUDOX AM marketed by GRACE.

  Dyestuff The first composition or basecoat may contain at least one dyestuff at a low level.

  Thus, typically, the basecoat may contain a dye content of less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight, and even more preferably less than 6% by weight, based on the total weight of said first composition.

  The following description of the nature of the physiologically acceptable medium, as well as the nature of the dyestuffs and other possible ingredients is valid for this first composition according to the invention.

SECOND COMPOSITION

  The second composition or topcoat is characterized by its dyestuff content so as to obtain a second covering composition, able to hide the color imperfections of the skin or lips.

  Thus, the dyestuff content is greater than or equal to 13% by weight, or even greater than 15% by weight, and even more preferably 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the second composition.

  The following description of the nature of the physiologically acceptable medium, as well as the nature of the dyestuffs and other possible ingredients is valid for the second composition according to the invention.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE ENVIRONMENT

  The basecoat and topcoat compositions according to the invention each comprise a physiologically acceptable medium.

  By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to the skin, especially the face, eyelids and / or neck and lips.

  This physiologically acceptable medium may comprise, where appropriate, a liquid fatty phase, which may comprise at least one oil chosen from volatile oils, non-volatile oils and their mixtures.

  Volatile oil The liquid fatty phase, which may be included in one of the compositions or the two compositions of the kit according to the invention, may comprise at least one volatile oil.

  By "volatile oil" is meant any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). The volatile cosmetic oil or oils, which are liquid at ambient temperature, have in particular a vapor pressure, measured at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging from 10-3 to 300 mmHg (0.266 Pa to 40,000 Pa), preferably from 0 to 300 mmHg. 0.2 mm to 300 mm Hg (2.66 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and more preferably 0.1 to 90 mm Hg (13 Pa to 12,000 Pa).

  These volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, optionally comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups or at the end of the silicone chain, fluorinated oils, or a mixture thereof.

  In particular, the volatile oils may be cosmetic oils chosen from oils having no flash point, oils having a flash point ranging from 40 C to 100 C, and mixtures thereof, in order to facilitate their use. In addition, they advantageously have a boiling point at atmospheric pressure of less than 220 ° C. and especially less than 210 ° C., in particular ranging from 110 ° to 210 ° C. These volatile oils may, for example, not be at least 7-atom monoalcohols. of carbon.

  As the volatile oil that may be used, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity, at room temperature, of less than 8 cSt and especially having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones possibly comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to to 10 carbon atoms.

  Useful volatile silicone oils that may be mentioned include octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane and dodecamethylpentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  As another volatile oil that may be used, mention may also be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) with C8-C16, and isododecane. isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neo-pentanoate and mixtures thereof.

  In particular, isododecane (permetyls 99 A), isoparaffins C8-C16 as Isopar L, E, G or H, their mixtures, optionally associated with decamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane, or mixtures thereof.

  Fluorinated volatile oils can also be used.

  The volatile oils may be present in one or the other of the compositions of the kit according to the invention, in a content ranging for example from 5 to 97.5% by weight, and in particular at a content ranging from 20 to 75%. by weight relative to the total weight of each of the compositions.

  Non-volatile oil One or both of the compositions of the kit according to the invention may also comprise a non-volatile fat fraction. This non-volatile fat fraction may comprise at least one non-volatile oil.

  By "non-volatile oil" is meant a fatty substance which is liquid at ambient temperature (20 ° C.) and which does not evaporate at this same temperature.

  Among the non-volatile oils, mention may be made of: polyalkyl (C 1 -C 20) siloxanes and in particular those with trimethylsilyl end groups, preferably those whose viscosity is less than 0.06 m 2 / s, among which mention may be made of linear polydimethylsiloxanes and alkylmethylpolysiloxanes such as cetyldimethicone (CTFA name), silicones modified with aliphatic and / or aromatic groups, optionally fluorinated, or with functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and / or amine groups, and phenyl silicone oils. , in particular phenyltrimethicones, oils of vegetable or mineral origin, such as liquid paraffin, petrolatum, perhydrosqualene, lanolin, apricot oil, wheat germ oil, sweet almond oil , calophyllum, sesame, macadamia, grape seed, rapeseed, copra, peanut, sunflower, palm, castor, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal sprouts s, the liquid fraction of shea butter; esters of fatty acids and polyol, in particular liquid triglycerides, isopropyl myristate, mygliol oil, isostearyl neopentanoate, ethyl 2-hexyl palmitate, castor oil, acetyl tributyl citrate; alcohols, in particular octyl-2-dodecanol; acetylglycerides; octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols; triglycerides of fatty acids; glycerides, fluorinated and perfluorinated oils; the amidated compounds, in particular those described in application PCT / FR98 / 01077 such as N-neopentanoyl-2-octyl-dodecylamine, Nneopentanoyl-2-butyl-ocylamine, N- (3,5,5-trimethyl) hexanoyl) -2-octyldocecylamine, N- (3,5,5-trimethylhexanoyl) -2-butyloctylamine, and mixtures thereof.

  The non-volatile fat fraction of the composition (s) in accordance with the invention may also comprise a non-liquid fatty phase and in particular at least one fatty substance chosen from waxes, gums, resins and / or bodies. pasty fat of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. The non-liquid fatty phase content in said compositions is adjusted according to the desired effect.

  The non-volatile fat fraction of the compositions in accordance with the invention may be present in a content ranging from 1 to 85% by weight, and especially in a content ranging from 1 to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of said compositions.

  The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise an aqueous phase. This aqueous phase may consist essentially of water. However, it may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, and C2-C4 aldehydes.

  This aqueous phase (water and optionally the organic solvent miscible with water) may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, especially ranging from 3% to 80% by weight. and in particular ranging from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said compositions.

  When the first and second compositions are in the form of an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase of the composition in question can range, for example, from 5% to 80% by weight and in particular from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the weight. total of the composition.

COLORING MATERIALS

  As coloring material that can be used in the basecoat and / or topcoat, mention may be made of lipophilic dyes, hydrophilic dyes, pigments and nacres commonly used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, and mixtures thereof.

  The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, R-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, yellow quinoline.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, hydrate of chrome and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with in particular ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

  The pigments may have undergone a surface treatment.

  Among the pigments that can be used, mention may also be made of goniochromatic pigments.

OTHER INGREDIENTS

  Film-forming Polymer The first and second compositions may also comprise a film-forming polymer according to the invention.

  According to the present invention, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on the skin.

  A film-forming polymer capable of forming a hydrophobic film, that is to say a polymer whose film has a solubility in water at 25 ° C. of less than 1% by weight, is advantageously used.

  The film-forming polymer may in particular be at least one polymer chosen from the group comprising: water-soluble film-forming polymers, aqueous dispersions of particles of film-forming, water-dispersible polymers, also called "latices"; in this case, the foundation composition must comprise an aqueous phase, the liposoluble film-forming polymers, the lipodispersible film-forming polymers in the form of non-aqueous dispersions of polymer particles, preferably dispersions of polymeric particles, where appropriate. stabilized at their surface by at least one stabilizing agent, in one or more silicone and / or hydrocarbon oils; these non-aqueous dispersions are also called "NAD", and - their mixtures.

  As aqueous dispersions of film-forming polymer that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of the acrylic dispersions sold under the names NEOCRYL A-1070, NEOCRYL A-1090, NEOCRYL BT-62, NEOCRYL A1079 and NEOCRYL A-523 by the company AVECIA-NEORESINS DOW LATEX 432 by the company DOW CHEMICAL, DAITOSOL 5000 AD by the company DAITO KASEY KOGYO; or else the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names AVALURE UR-425, AVALURE UR-450 by the company GOODRICH, IMPRANIL 85 by the company BAYER and AQUAMERE H-1511 by the company HYDROMER.

  As an aqueous dispersion of film-forming polymer, mention may also be made of the polymer dispersions resulting from the radical polymerization of one or more radical monomers inside and / or partially on the surface of pre-existing particles of at least one polymer chosen from the group consisting of polyurethanes, polyureas, polyesters, polyesteramides and / or alkyds. These polymers are generally called hybrid polymers.

  Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be used according to the invention include proteins such as proteins of vegetable origin, anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic chitin or chitosan polymers, cellulose polymers, polymers or acrylic copolymers, vinyl polymers, polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, and mixtures thereof.

  Dispersions of film-forming polymer in the liquid fatty phase, in the presence of stabilizing agents, are described in particular in documents EP-A-749746, EP-A-923928 and EP-A-930060, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. in this application.

  By way of example of liposoluble polymers, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group).

  The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition in a solids content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight and in particular from 0.5% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In general, the compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain the usual adjuvants in the cosmetic field, such as emulsifiers, fillers, hydrophilic or lipophilic gelling agents, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, preservatives, antioxidants solvents, fragrances, physical and chemical sunscreens, odor absorbers and pH adjusters. Examples of such adjuvants are given later.

  Surfactants The compositions in accordance with the invention may also contain a surfactant.

  Charges The charges that may be used in one or the other or both compositions in accordance with the invention may in particular comprise or consist of particles having a mean size in number of less than or equal to 15 m, in particular less than or equal to at 10 m, in particular less than or equal to 7.5 m, even less than or equal to 5 m, for example between 1 m and 5 m.

  By "average size in number" is meant the dimension given by the statistical size distribution to half of the population, called D50.

  These particles can be of any shape and in particular be spherical or nonspherical.

  The fillers may be of any chemical nature inasmuch as they are compatible with use in cosmetics and where they do not affect the expected properties of the composition.

  Such fillers are preferably chosen so as to be distinct from the mineral particles that can be used as tensioning agents. the size of the fillers is generally larger than the size of the mineral particles that can be used as a tensioning agent since the latter are nanometric.

  They can thus be chosen from silica and silicate powders, in particular alumina powders, polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) powders, talc, silica / TiO2 or silica / zinc oxide composites, polyethylene powders, and powders. starch, polyamide powders, styrene / acrylic copolymer powders, silicone elastomers, and mixtures thereof.

  The filler, taken alone or as a mixture, may be present in the composition in which it is incorporated in a content ranging from 0.1 to 20% by weight and especially ranging from 1% to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition, especially between 2 and 10% by weight.

  Organopolysiloxane Elastomer The first composition may, according to a particular embodiment, comprise an organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  The main roles of the organopolysiloxane elastomer are both of a visual nature since they provide a smoothing of the skin and a deflowered effect both of a nature to provide comfort. This second aspect of the role played by the organopolysiloxane elastomer emanates from a reinforcing function which could be demonstrated by measures of breaking strength of the basecoat according to the invention. It has thus been possible to observe a significant reinforcing role for the organopolysiloxane elastomer by comparing compositions containing such an organopolysiloxane elastomer and compositions that are free of it.

  By "organopolysiloxane elastomer" is meant a flexible, deformable organopolysiloxane having viscoelastic properties and especially the consistency of a sponge or a flexible sphere. Its modulus of elasticity is such that this material resists deformation and has a limited capacity for extension and contraction. This material is able to recover its original shape after stretching.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer, when present in the first composition, is preferably in gel form.

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane may be obtained by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and diorganopolysiloxane having silicon-bonded ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst; or by condensation-crosslinking dehydrogenation reaction between a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen, especially in the presence of an organotin; or by crosslinking condensation reaction of a hydroxyl-terminated diorganopolysiloxane and a hydrolyzable organopolysilane; or by thermal crosslinking of oranopolysiloxane, especially in the presence of organoperoxide catalyst; or by crosslinking of organopolysiloxane by high energy radiation such as gamma rays, ultraviolet rays, electron beam.

  The elastomer is advantageously a non-emulsifying elastomer.

  The term "non-emulsifying" defines organopolysiloxane elastomers not containing polyoxyalkylene units (especially polyoxyethylene or polyoxypropylene).

  The elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane particles are transported in gel form consisting of an elastomeric organopolysiloxane included in at least one hydrocarbon oil and / or a silicone oil. In these gels, the organopolysiloxane particles are often non-spherical particles.

  Non-emulsifying elastomers are described in EP 242 219, EP 285 886, EP 765 656 and JP-A-61-194009.

  The organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be an emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  It may especially be chosen from polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer.

  The polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer is a crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by a crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and a polyoxyalkylene having at least two ethylenically unsaturated groups.

  Polyoxyalkylenated elastomers are described in particular in patents US5236986, US5412004, US5837793 and US5811487, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

  As polyoxyalkylenated organopolysiloxane elastomer, those sold under the names "KSG-21", "KSG-20", "KSG-30", "KSG-31", KSG-32 "," KSG-33 ", can be used. "KSG-210", "KSG-310", "KSG-320", "KSG-330", "KSG-340", "X-226146" by the company Shin Etsu, "DC9010", "DC9011" by the Dow Corning company.

  The emulsifying organopolysiloxane elastomer may also be chosen from polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomers.

  The polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer according to the invention is an elastomeric crosslinked organopolysiloxane obtainable by crosslinking addition reaction of diorganopolysiloxane containing at least one silicon-bonded hydrogen and polyglycerolated compounds having ethylenically unsaturated groups, especially in the presence of platinum catalyst.

  As polyglycerolated organopolysiloxane elastomer, those sold under the names "KSG-710", "KSG-810", KSG-820 ", KSG830", KSG-840 "by the company SHIN ETSU can be used.

  As emulsifying or non-emulsifying elastomers, it is more particularly possible to use those sold under the names "KSG-6", "KSG-15", "KSG-16", "KSG-18", "KSG-31", "KSG- 32 "," KSG-33 "," KSG-41 "," KSG-42 "," KSG-43 "," KSG-44 "," KSG-210 "," KSG-710 "," USG-105 " , "USG-106" by Shin Etsu, "DC9040", "DC9041", "DC9509", by Dow Corning, "GRANSIL" by Grant Industries, "SFE 839" by General Electric.

ASSETS

  As usual active agents in the cosmetic or dermatological field that can be used in one or other of the two compositions in accordance with the invention, mention may be made in particular of all the active agents known for their activity on aging of the skin, such as keratolytic or prodesquamant agents, for example α-hydroxy acids, 13-hydroxy acids, α-keto acids, (3-keto acids, retinoids and their esters, retinal, retinoic acid and its derivatives include also extracts of veinotonic plants such as extracts of small holly and / or horse chestnut, xanthine bases such as caffeine, vitamins, such as for example vitamins A, B3, PP , B5, E, KI and / or C and the derivatives of these vitamins and in particular their esters, anti-free radical agents, sunscreens, moisturizing agents such as polyols, ceramides, DHEA and its derivatives, coenzyme Q10 whitening agents and depig such as kojic acid, skullcap, mulberry, licorice and / or chamomile extracts; para-aminophenol derivatives, arbutin and their derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

  For use in the cosmetic treatment of oily or combination skin, the compositions in accordance with the invention may contain at least one active agent chosen from: vitamins B3 and B5; zinc salts, and in particular zinc oxide and zinc gluconate; salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid; triclosan; capryloylglycine; an extract of clove; octopirox; hexamidine and azelaic acid and its derivatives.

  UVA and / or UVB filters, chosen from organic screening agents and mineral filters optionally coated to render them hydrophobic, may also be introduced into one or both of the compositions of the invention.

  The formulation examples given below are presented by way of illustration and not limitation of the invention, the percentages being expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

GALENIC AND KIT

  The first and second compositions may take any galenical form normally used in the cosmetics field.

  In particular, it may be a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel or a lotion.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the first composition and the second composition both have a continuous phase of the same nature.

  Even more preferably, they both have an oily continuous phase.

  The makeup kit according to the present invention may take the form of a make-up for the lips (lipstick), a complexion product, such as a foundation, loose powders and / or compacted powders. a concealer product or an eye shadow.

EXAMPLES

  EXAMPLE 1 Basecoat W / H% by mass A-cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone marketed under the name ABIL EM 90 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 1.50 Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate sold under the name Isolan GI 34 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT 0.50 Isohexadecane 4.00 Squalane 1.85 Dimethicone marketed under the name FLUID DC 200 10 CST by the company Dow Corning 2.05 Apricot almond oils type C (PRUNUS ARMENIACA KERNEL OIL) 1, 10 Cyclohexasiloxane marketed under the name DOW CORNING 246 FLUID by Dow Corning 9.00 Propylparaben 0.15 B- Water 54.45 Methylparaben 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.30 Magnesium sulphate 1.75 C- Propylene glycol 3.00 Aqueous dispersion of colloidal silica (40% MA) sold under the name Cosmo S 40 by the company CATALYSTS & CHEMICALS D-Nylon-12 marketed under the name ORGASOL 2002 EXD NAT COS 204 by the company ARKEMA

OPERATIVE MODE

  Fat phase: A is weighed in the main beaker and placed on a hot plate. The mixture is heated to 60.degree. C. and is homogenized with magnetic stirring. Once the phase is homogeneous, it is allowed to cool under cold water bath so as to reach a temperature of 20 C.

  Aqueous phase: Boil on hot plate B. Then, the beaker is placed under cold water bath to return the temperature to 20 C.

  Emulsification: The emulsion is at ambient temperature (20 ° C.) and at a constant speed of 2000 rpm (stirrer MORITZ). The aqueous phase B is poured very slowly into the fatty phase A. As soon as the incorporation of B is complete, C and D are successively added and the mixture is allowed to turbinate just 1 minute.

  Example 2: Base coat H / E% by weight A-Dimyristyl Tartrate (and) Cetearyl alcohol (and) C12-15 Pareth-7 (and) PPG-25-Laureth-25 marketed under the name COSMACOL PSE by the company SASOL Glyceryl stearate (and) PEG-100 stearate marketed under the name ARLACEL 165 FL by the company UNIQUEMA aalcohol stearylic marketed under the name LANETTE 18 by the company COGNIS 3.00 100.00 1.50 2.00 1.00 Cyclohexasiloxane marketed under the name 7.50 DOW CORNING 246 FLUID by the company Dow Corning Polyisobutene hydrogenated (6-8 moles) sold under the name 2.50 POLYSYNLANE by the company NOF CORPORATION Butylparaben 0.15 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate marketed under the name 1.00 PARSOL MCX by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS B- Water 51.85 Methylparaben 0.25 Chlorphenesine 0.25 Disodium EDTA 0.05 Ammonium Polyacryloyldimethyl taurate sold under the name 0.40 HOSTACERIN AMPS by the company CLARIANT C- Xanthan gum 0.20 DDispersion aqueous silica colloidal (40% MA) marketed E- under the name COSMO S 40 by CATALYSTS & CHEMICALS 17,10 Water 1,00 Chlorhexidine digluconate (20% solution) 0,25 F- Water 9,75 Sodium Hyaluronate 0,25 G- Aluminum starch octenylsuccinate 12 sold under the name 3.00 DRY FLO PURE (28-1850) (USA) by the company

NATIONAL STARCH

OPERATIVE MODE

  Fat phase: We weigh A in a beaker and let it melt in a water bath up to 75 C. Once the phase is homogeneous, it is left at a temperature of 75 C.

  Aqueous Phase B (with the exception of ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate) is weighed into the main beaker and heated on a hot plate B at a temperature of 75 ° C. and homogenized with RAYNERI stirring at this temperature.

  After homogenization, the ammonium polyacryloyl dimethyl taurate is added and the mixture is stirred for 20 minutes at 500 rpm.

  Emulsification The oil phase A is poured at a temperature of 75 ° C. very slowly into the aqueous phase B, increasing as the stirring speed increases from 1000 rpm to 3000 rpm (stirring MORITZ). ).

Stirred for 10 minutes.

  Then successively added at 800 rpm (RAYNERI stirring): C then D to 45 C, then E to 30 C, then F (hyaluronate gel previously prepared RAYNERI) stirring 5 minutes after each addition and finally, G qu The mixture is stirred for 10 minutes.

  Example 3: Top Coat: 15% of pigments (W / O)% by mass Al-Cétyl PEG / PPG 10/1 dimethicone marketed under the name 3.00 ABIL EM 90 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT Polyglyceryl-4 isostearate sold under the name 1, ISOLAN GI 34 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT Butylparaben 0.15 Ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate sold under the name 7.50 PARSOL MCX by the company DSM NUTRITIONAL PRODUCTS A2-Phenyl trimethicone marketed under the name DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRADE FLUID by the company Dow Corning 8, 00 Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG / PPG-18/18 dimethicone marketed under the name DOW CORNING 5225C FORMULATION AID by the company Dow Corning 2.00 Cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DOW CORNING 2.032 245 FLUID by the company Dow Corning A3- Iron Oxide yellow coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (97/3) 2.114 Brown iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (97/3) 0.436 Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (97/3) 0.218 Ox anatase titanium yde coated with stearoyl glutamate 12.096 aluminum (97/3) iron oxides brown, yellow, black, coated with stearoyl glutamate 0.136 aluminum (97/3) Cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DOW CORNING 6.818 245 FLUID by the company Dow Corning A4- bismuth oxychloride marketed under the name BIRON LF 2000 by the company MERCK 4.00 A5-Acrylates copolymer sold under the name Expancel 551 DE 20 D60 by Expancel 0.20 Cyclohexasiloxane marketed under the name DOW CORNING 5.25 246 FLUID by the company Dow Corning B l- Water 20.00 Cellulose gum 0.40 B2- Water 16.8 Methylparaben 0.25 Phenoxyethanol 0.70 Butylene glycol 5.00 Magnesium sulphate 0.70 Pentylene glycol 1.00 OPERATIVE MODE: Oily phase: Al is weighed in the main beaker and placed on a hot plate (approximately 60 C). Then homogenized with magnetic stirring. Then allowed to cool to 30 or 40 C. The whole MORITZ stirring is 1000 rpm and added A2.

  After grinding the pigments (phase A3) to the tricylinders, A3 is added to the main beaker.

  Stirred at MORITZ for 15 minutes at 1500-1700 rpm.

  Then, with stirring, A4 and A5 were added for 15 minutes at 1500-1700 rpm.

  Aqueous phase: The water is weighed and heated slightly to 40 ° C. Then it is stirred at 600 rpm (RAYNERI) and the cellulose gum is dispersed therein.

  B2 is weighed and heated to boiling on a hot plate. Then, the beaker is placed under cold water bath to return to 20 ° C. and B2 is poured into BI with RAYNERI stirring.

  Emulsification The emulsion is at room temperature. The aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase A, increasing as the stirring speed increases from 1000 rpm to 3500 rpm (MORITZ). Stir at this rate for 10 minutes.

  EXAMPLE 4 Top-coat (W / O)% by weight of Al-Polyglyceryl isostearate-4 (and) hexyl laurate (and) cetyl PEG / PPG-10/1 dimethicone marketed under the name ABIL WE 09 by GOLDSCHMIDT 9.00 Acetylated glycol stearate (and) Tristearin marketed under the name UNITWIX by the company UNITED GUARDIAN 0.30 A2-Disteardimonium hectorite marketed under the name BENTONE 38 VCG by ELEMENTIS 1,00 A3- Yellow iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (97/3) 2.87 Brown iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (97/3) 0.88 Black iron oxide coated with stearoyl aluminum glutamate (97/3) 0.46 Titanium anatase oxide coated with stearoyl glutamate 20.79 aluminum (97/3) Cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DOW CORNING 11.30 245 FLUID by the company Dow Corning A4 Dimethicone sold under the name DOW CORNING FLUID 200 5 CS by the company Dow Corning 6.60 Cyclopentasiloxane sold under the name DOW CORNING 245 FLUI D by the company Dow Corning 4.00 Acrylates copolymer sold under the name EXPANCEL 0.60 551 DE 20 D60 by EXPANCEL B1- Water 31.70 Magnesium sulphate 1.50 Glycerol 5.00 EthylhexylGlycerin 0.50 Pentylene glycol 3 , 00 B2-Cellulose Gum 0.50 PROCEDURE: Oily phase: We weigh Al in the main beaker and let it melt in Bain-Marie.

  A2 is added and dispersed with magnetic stirring at 50 ° C. for 15 minutes.

  A4 is added and the mixture is stirred continuously with stirring for 5 minutes.

  Preparation of A3: the pigments are mixed with the tricylinders.

  Once the mixture Al + A2 + A4 is homogeneous at room temperature, A3 is added and stirred (MORITZ) for 15 minutes at 1000-1200 rpm.

  Aqueous phase: B1 is weighed and heated on a hot plate to boiling. Then B2 is dispersed to 50 C at 500 rpm (RAYNERI) and then allowed to warm to room temperature.

  Emulsification: The emulsion is at room temperature.

  The aqueous phase B is poured into the fatty phase A, increasing as the stirring speed increases from 1000 rpm to 3500 rpm. Stirred for 10 minutes.

  By combination of the basecoats of Examples 1 and 2 with the topcoats of Examples 3 and 4, makeup kits of the foundation type with a high covering power while strongly limiting the relief defects of the types of wrinkles, fine lines and pores of the skin.

Claims (12)

  1. Makeup kit for keratin materials comprising at least: a first composition comprising at least one tensioning agent, and a second composition comprising a dyestuff content greater than or equal to 13% by weight relative to the total weight of said second substance. composition.   2. Makeup kit according to claim 1, characterized in that the dye content is greater than or equal to 15% by weight, preferably 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the second composition.   3. Makeup kit according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the tensioning agent is conveyed in an aqueous phase.   4. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the tensioning agent is selected from proteins and hydrolysates of plant proteins, polymers of natural origin, nanoscale inorganic particles, these particles being in colloidal form, polymeric systems in aqueous dispersion, grafted silicone polymers, mixed silicates, interpenetrating networks of polymers and mixtures thereof.   5. makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the tensioning agent comprises at least colloidal silica.   6. makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the tensioning agent is present in the first composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably 0.05 at 15% by weight and even more preferably from 0.1 to 7% by weight relative to the total weight of said first composition.   7. makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the first composition and the second composition comprise a continuous phase of the same nature.   8. Makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the first composition and the second composition comprise an oily continuous phase.   9. makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the first composition comprises a dyestuff content of less than or equal to 8% by weight, preferably less than 7% by weight and still more preferably less than 6% by weight, based on the total weight of said first composition.   10. makeup kit according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that it takes the form of a makeup for the lips, such as a lipstick, a complexion product such as a foundation, loose and / or compact powders, a concealer or an eyeshadow.   11. Cosmetic treatment process, in particular for makeup of keratin materials, comprising at least: the application of a first composition comprising at least one tensioning agent, and the application of a second composition comprising a higher content of dyestuff or equal to 13% by weight, relative to the total weight of said second composition.   12. Cosmetic treatment method according to claim 10, characterized in that the first and second compositions are as defined in any one of claims 2 to 10.