FR3134315A1 - Inverse emulsion comprising a dedextrin ester, a volatile linear alkane, a natural wax, a natural hydrophilic polymer gelling agent, a non-ionic emulsifier - Google Patents

Abstract

Inverse emulsion comprising a dextrin ester, a volatile linear alkane, a natural wax, a natural hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent, a non-ionic emulsifier. The present invention relates to the care and/or makeup of keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes and/or eyebrows, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium: a) a continuous oily phase comprising i) at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid; andii) at least one volatile linear alkane; andii) at least one natural wax; andb) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase comprising a natural hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent or of natural origin; etc) at least one non-ionic surfactant having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0. The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and/or care for keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes and/or eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises the application to keratin materials of an emulsion as defined above.

Description

Reverse emulsion comprising a dextrin ester, a volatile linear alkane, a natural wax, a natural hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent, a non-ionic emulsifier

The present invention relates to the field of care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, and aims to propose compositions more particularly dedicated to the makeup of eyelashes or eyebrows.

Generally speaking, compositions dedicated to the makeup of keratin fibers, for example eyelashes, aim to densify the thickness and visual perception of the eyelashes and ultimately the look.

A wide variety of cosmetic effects can be provided by the application of a mascara to the keratin fibers and in particular the eyelashes, such as for example a volumizing, lengthening, thickening and more particularly charging makeup effect.

Eye makeup compositions, also called “mascara” for the eyelashes and eyeliners or “eyeliner” for the eyelids, are generally made up of a wax or a mixture of waxes to obtain a coating of the eyelashes. These waxes can be dispersed in an aqueous medium, in particular using at least one surfactant in an aqueous phase containing, moreover, water-soluble film-forming polymers or in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles (latex) and pigments.

Furthermore, it is through the qualitative and quantitative choice of waxes and polymers that the application specificities sought for makeup compositions are adjusted, such as their fluidity, their covering power and/or their curling power. Thus, it is possible to produce various compositions which, applied in particular to the eyelashes, induce various effects such as lengthening, curling and/or thickening (charging effect) and/or volumizing.

There are two types of mascara depending on their formulation, washable mascaras or “washable” mascaras which can be cleaned with water or soapy water and which are generally presented in the form of an emulsion of waxes in the water, such as creams or gels, and water-resistant or "waterproof" mascaras, requiring the use of an oily formulation to be removed and which are generally formulated as a dispersion of wax in organic solvents .

Anhydrous "waterproof" mascaras are known, which comprise waxes in an anhydrous medium, in particular in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic solvents and at least one structuring agent of the oily phase which can be a wax, a polymer, in particular a polymer. semi-crystalline or a lipophilic gelling agent. These compositions may further comprise an aqueous phase dispersed in the liquid fatty phase, as described for example in document WO-A-91/12793. This document also specifies that the water resistance of the mascara can be improved by adding a water-soluble film-forming polymer to the aqueous phase.

The hold of the material deposited on the eyelashes is often sought with the aim of emphasizing the look, making it more visible and intense throughout the day. We know in particular that the makeup film obtained with these compositions tends to crumble over time. The film thus weakened tends not to resist friction, in particular from fingers and/or water, during swimming or showers for example, which is contrary to obtaining makeup having good hold in the weather. In addition, the presence of particulate materials such as pigments in eyelash makeup compositions makes these compositions particularly prone to crumbling.

In addition, users are looking for products that are comfortable to apply, in particular having a slippery and smooth deposit on the keratin fibers, which do not smudge and do not produce clumps such as flakes. . They also seek to use products with well-tolerated ingredients such as natural ingredients, with ingredients that have little or no impact on the environment and/or ingredients that are compatible with many packaging options.

Anhydrous waterproof mascaras were proposed in patent application EP2307099 comprising a liquid fatty phase based on linear volatile C ₇ -C ₁₇ alkanes and more particularly an undecane (C ₁₁ )/tridecane (C ₁₃ ) mixture, an agent liquid fatty phase structuring agent chosen from waxes, semi-crystalline polymers, lipophilic gelling agents, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof.

Long-lasting mascaras in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion with a water-soluble film-forming polymer and at least one silicone emulsifying surfactant were also proposed in application EP0832637.

In 2014, on the waterproof mascara market, products were offered in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion based on waxes, isododecane, a modified clay, a lipophilic film-forming polymer in the oily phase and in the aqueous phase a hydrophilic film-forming polymer in the form of latex.

More recently, waterproof mascaras have been launched on the market in the form of a water/silicone emulsion with volatile and non-volatile silicone oils, a silicone resin, solid fatty substances and fillers.

There remains a need to find new formulations for the coating of keratin fibers in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion that is water-resistant, has good durability over time, and good resistance to mechanical stress such as friction, which are easy and comfortable to apply, in particular which produce a good slippery and smooth deposit without burrs or flakes, and this without the need to use hydrophilic film-forming polymers in the form of latex or silicone compound.

There is also a need to find new formulations for coating keratin fibers with well-tolerated ingredients such as natural ingredients, with ingredients that have little or no impact on the environment.

During her research, the applicant unexpectedly discovered that these objectives could be achieved with a care and/or makeup composition of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, in the form of a water emulsion. -in-oil comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a continuous oily phase comprising
i) at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid; And
ii) at least one volatile linear alkane, in particular C ₇ -C ₁₄ , preferably of plant origin; And
ii) at least one natural wax and
b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase comprising a natural hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent or of natural origin; And
c) at least one nonionic emulsifying surfactant with HLB less than or equal to 8.0.

This discovery is the basis of the invention.

The present invention therefore relates to a composition for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a continuous oily phase comprising
i) at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid; And
ii) at least one volatile linear alkane, in particular C ₇ -C ₁₄ , preferably of plant origin; And
ii) at least one natural wax; And
b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase comprising at least one natural hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent or of natural origin; And
c) at least one nonionic emulsifying surfactant with HLB less than or equal to 8.0.

According to a particular form, the composition according to the invention does not contain any film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase or any silicone compound.

The invention also relates to a process for coating keratin materials, more particularly for makeup and/or care for keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows, characterized in that it comprises application to said keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

Definitions

In the context of the present invention, the term “keratin materials” means human keratin materials such as the skin, in particular the eye contour, the eyelash contour, the eyebrow contour; keratin fibers such as eyelashes and eyebrows,” means eyelashes and eyebrows.

By "physiologically acceptable", we mean compatible with the skin and/or its appendages, which has a pleasant color, odor and touch and which does not generate unacceptable discomfort (tingling, tightness) likely to distract the consumer from use this composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “emulsifying surfactant” means an amphiphilic surfactant compound, that is to say having two parts of different polarity. In general, one is lipophilic (soluble or dispersible in an oil phase), the other is hydrophilic (soluble or dispersible in water). Emulsifying surfactants are characterized by the value of their HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic balance), the HLB being the ratio between the hydrophilic part and the lipophilic part in the molecule. The term HLB is well known to those skilled in the art and is described for example in “The HLB system. A time-saving guide to Emulsifier Selection” (published by ICI Americas Inc; 1984). For emulsifying surfactants, the HLB generally ranges from 3 to 8 for the preparation of W/O emulsions. The HLB of the surfactant(s) used according to the invention can be determined by the GRIFFIN method or the DAVIES method.

By “water-in-oil emulsion” is meant a composition comprising an immiscible oil phase and an aqueous phase; the aqueous phase being dispersed in the form of droplets in the oily phase (called continuous) so as to obtain a macroscopically homogeneous composition.

In the present application, the term “film-forming polymer” means a polymer capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous deposit on a support, at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 150°C. .

By “composition not containing film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase, is meant any composition containing less than 0.1% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition of film-forming polymer(s) under the form of particles suspended in the aqueous phase or even free of such a polymer. Such a film-forming polymer is generally called latex or pseudolatex.

By "silicone compound" is meant any molecule in simple form or in polymer form comprising in its chemical structure at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si-O group, and more particularly an organosiloxane or organopolysiloxane group.

By “composition not containing a silicone compound” is meant any composition containing less than 1% by weight of silicone compound, or even less than 0.5% by weight, or even less than 0.1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even free of silicone compound.

Oily phase

The composition according to the invention comprises a continuous oily phase comprising at least one oil of the volatile linear alkane type, at least one wax, at least one dextrin and acid ester as well as optionally all the solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in the oil or oils present.

Such an oily phase is a liquid organic phase at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) that is non-aqueous and immiscible with water.

By “oil”, we mean a liquid fatty substance at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760mm of Hg or 105 Pa).

The total concentration in the oil phase of the composition of
the invention preferably varies from 20 to 80% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 40 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Dextrin and fatty acid ester

The compositions according to the invention comprise at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid, preferably C ₈ -C ₃₀ .

More particularly the ester of dextrin and fatty acid, corresponds to the following formula (I):
in which
- the radicals R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ , identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, or even 12-18, carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R ₁ , R ₂ or R ₃ is different from hydrogen,
- n is an integer between 3 and 150, in particular 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

Preferably, the three radicals R ₁ , R ₂ and R ₃ are different from hydrogen, which leads to dextrin esters having the following formula (II):
in which the radicals R' ₁ , R' ₂ and R' ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having 6 to 30, in particular 8 to 22, more particularly 12-18 atoms of carbon, - n is an integer between 3 and 150, in particular 10 and 100, and preferably 15-40.

In particular the radicals -OCOR' ₁ , -OCOR' ₂ and/or -OCOR' ₃ can be chosen from the radicals caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethyl butyric, ethylmethylacetic, isoheptanoic, 2-ethyl hexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, decenoic, dodecenoic, tetradecenoic, myristoleic, hexadecenoic, palmitoleic, oleic, elaidic, asclepinic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic , linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, a dextrin palmitate or a dextrin myristate is used, and more particularly a dextrin palmitate.

Some of these dextrin esters are available commercially, in particular under the name RHEOPEARL® from the company Chiba Floor Milling. Co.

These dextrin esters may be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight. , relative to the total weight of the composition.

Volatile linear alkanes

The oily phase of the composition according to the invention comprises one or more volatile linear alkanes, in particular C ₇ -C ₁₄ .

By “one or more volatile linear alkane(s)”, we mean indifferently “one or more volatile linear alkane(s) oil”.

A volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention is liquid at room temperature (about 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg).

By “volatile linear alkane” suitable for the invention is meant a cosmetic linear alkane, capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, that is to say 101,325 Pa), liquid at room temperature, having in particular an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 15 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

Preferably, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm). Hg), or even 0.01 to 0.8 mg/cm²/min, or even 0.01 to 0.3 mg/cm²/min, or even 0.01 to 0.12 mg/cm²/min.

The evaporation speed of a volatile alkane in accordance with the invention (and more generally of a volatile solvent) can in particular be evaluated using the protocol described in the application
WO06/013413, and more particularly by means of the protocol described below.

15 g of solvent are introduced into a crystallizer (diameter: 7 cm) placed on a balance located in an enclosure of approximately 0.3 m ³ , regulated in temperature (25 ° C) and hygrometry (relative humidity 50%). volatile hydrocarbon. The liquid is allowed to evaporate freely, without stirring, ensuring ventilation by a fan (PAPST-MOTOREN®, reference 8550 N®, rotating at 2700 rpm) placed in a vertical position above the crystallizer containing the volatile hydrocarbon solvent, the blades being directed towards the crystallizer, at a distance of 20 cm from the bottom of the crystallizer. The mass of volatile hydrocarbon solvent remaining in the crystallizer is measured at regular time intervals. We then obtain the evaporation profile of the solvent by plotting the curve of the quantity of product evaporated (in mg/cm²) as a function of time (in min). Then we calculate the evaporation speed which corresponds to the tangent to the origin of the curve obtained. Evaporation rates are expressed in mg of volatile solvent evaporated per unit area (cm²) and per unit time (minute).

According to a preferred embodiment, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have a non-zero vapor pressure (also called saturated vapor pressure), at room temperature, in particular a vapor pressure ranging from 0.3 Pa at 6000 Pa, or even ranging from 0.3 to 2000 Pa, or even ranging from 0.3 to 1000 Pa, or even from 0.4 to 600 Pa, or even from 1 to 200 Pa, or even from 3 to 60 Pa.

According to one embodiment, a volatile linear alkane suitable for the invention may have a flash point in the range varying from 30 to 120°C, and more particularly from 40 to 100°C. The flash point is measured in particular according to the ISO 3679 standard.

According to one embodiment, an alkane suitable for the invention may be a volatile linear alkane comprising from 7 to 14 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention comprise from 11 to 14 carbon atoms.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms.

According to an advantageous embodiment, the “volatile linear alkanes” suitable for the invention have an evaporation rate, as defined above, ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 mg/cm²/min, at room temperature ( 25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), and include 9 to 14 carbon atoms.

As an example of linear alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C ₇ ), n-octane (C ₈ ), n-nonane (C ₉ ), n-decane ( C ₁₀ ), n-undecane (C ₁₁ ), n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ), n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ), n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ), and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment, the volatile linear alkane is chosen from n-nonane, n-undecane, n-dodecane, n-tridecane, n-tetradecane, and their mixtures.

We can cite n-dodecane (C ₁₂ ) such as the commercial product sold by Sasol under the reference PARAFOL 12-97® or the commercial product sold under the name PLANTASENS FLASH 80® by the company CLARIANT

We can also cite n-tetradecane (C ₁₄ ) sold by Sasol under the trade reference PARAFOL 14-97®.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the volatile linear alkane or alkanes suitable for the invention are of plant origin.

As an example of volatile linear alkanes of plant origin suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in the patent applications of the company Cognis WO2007/068371, or WO2008/155059 (mixtures of distinct alkanes and differing by at least one carbon). These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from coconut or palm oil.

According to a particular mode, the composition of the invention comprises n-tridecane such as the commercial product sold under the name CETIOL ISAN® by the company BASF.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) having the INCI name: UNDECANE (AND) TRIDECANE as obtained in Examples 1 and 2 of application WO2008/155059 from the Cognis Company. More particularly, we will use the commercial product sold under the name CETIOL ULTMATE® by the company BASF.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of volatile linear C ₉ -C ₁₂ alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 ALKANES such as the commercial product sold under the name VEGELIGHT SILK by the company Biosyntheis.

The total concentration of volatile linear alkane(s) of the composition of the invention varies, preferably, from 5 to 50% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Natural wax(es)

For the purposes of the invention, the term “waxes” means lipophilic compounds, solid at room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point. melting greater than or equal to 40°C and up to 120°C.

By “natural” wax we mean any wax that pre-exists in nature or can be transformed, extracted or purified from natural compounds existing in nature.

Among the natural waxes, we can notably cite so-called fossil waxes, including those of petroleum origin such as ozocerite, pyropissite, microcrystalline waxes also called paraffins – including raw waxes or slack wax, slack wax raffinates, de-oiled slack wax, soft waxes, semi-refined waxes, filtered waxes, refined waxes and microcrystalline waxes called microwaxes including “bright stock” slack wax. Fossil waxes still contain lignite, also known as montan wax, or peat wax.

As natural waxes other than fossil waxes, we can cite vegetable waxes such as carnauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricuri wax, sugar cane wax, jojoba wax, Trithrinax Campestris wax, raffia wax, alfalfa wax, wax extracted from Douglas fir, sisal wax, linen wax, cotton wax, Batavia dammar wax, cereal wax, tea wax, coffee wax, rice bran wax, palm wax, Japanese wax, sunflower seed wax, their mixtures and their derivatives.

As a natural wax other than vegetable waxes, we can cite beeswax.

According to a particular mode of the invention, the wax is chosen from jojoba wax, carnauba wax, rice wax, sunflower seed wax, and mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the composition of the invention comprises a mixture of jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax, in particular the mixture of INCI name: Jojoba Esters (and) Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Wax (and) Polyglycerin-3 tel than the commercial product sold under the name DEFINICIRE® by the company Gatefossé.

The natural wax(es) is(are), preferably, present(s) at concentrations ranging from 15 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition according to the invention comprises an aqueous phase.

The term "aqueous phase" means a phase comprising water as well as possibly all solvents and ingredients soluble or miscible in water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C) such as lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 3 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, pentylene glycol, dipropylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may contain demineralized water, or even floral water such as cornflower water and/or mineral water such as VITTEL water, LUCAS water or LA ROCHE POSAY water and/or or thermal water.

In particular, a composition according to the invention comprises at least 5% water by weight, better still at least 15% by weight, more particularly from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Natural or natural-origin polymeric gelling agents

The composition according to the invention comprises in the aqueous phase at least one hydrophilic non-ionic polymeric gelling agent that is natural or of natural origin.

The term “hydrophilic gelling agent” within the meaning of the present invention is understood to mean a compound capable of gelling the aqueous phase of the compositions according to the invention.

The gelling agent may be water-soluble or water-dispersible, and preferably water-soluble.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “non-ionic” is intended to designate polymeric gelling agents not comprising ionic groups in their chemical structure (ie: positively charged cationic groups and/or negatively charged anionic groups).

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “of natural origin” is intended to designate polymeric gelling agents obtained by modification of natural polymeric gelling agents.

These gelling agents can be particulate or non-particulate.

More specifically, these gelling agents fall under the category of polysaccharides.

Non-ionic polysaccharides are carbohydrate macromolecules formed by the chaining of a large number of hydrophilic elementary sugars (oses) linked together by O-saccharide bonds.

They can be chosen from native polysaccharides, modified polysaccharides, and mixtures thereof.

The term “modified polysaccharide” means any chemically or enzymatically modified polysaccharide comprising at least one functional group.

The functional groups can be hydrocarbon groups (consisting essentially of carbon and hydrogen atoms) such as alkyl, alkenyl, aryl (ie: phenyl) or aralkyl (ie: benzyl) groups. The hydrocarbon groups can be unsubstituted, for example consisting of a simple alkyl chain or substituted by groups such as aromatic groups such as aryl groups (ie: phenyl) or aralkyl groups (ie: benzyl) or even polar groups such as for example hydroxyls.

In a preferred embodiment the molar mass of compound Y is greater than 2000 g/mol, or even greater than 3500 g/mol.

The non-ionic polysaccharides, modified or not, suitable for the invention may be homopolysaccharides such as fructans, glucans, galactans and mannans or heteropolysaccharides such as hemicellulose. They can be starchy like native or modified starches. The non-starchy polysaccharides can be chosen from polysaccharides produced by microorganisms; polysaccharides isolated from algae, polysaccharides from higher plants, such as homogeneous polysaccharides, in particular celluloses and its derivatives or fructoses, heterogeneous polysaccharides such as galactomannans, glucomannans, pectins, and their derivatives; and their mixtures. In particular, the polysaccharides can be chosen from fructans, glucans, amylose, amylopectin, glycogen, pullulan, dextrans, celluloses and their derivatives, in particular methyl celluloses, hydroxyalkylcelluloses, ethylhydroxyethylcelluloses, cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses, mannans, xylans, arabans, galactans, galacturonans, chitin, chitosans, glucoronoxylans, arabinoxylans, xyloglucans, glucomannans, arabinogalactans, agars, Karaya gums (approximately 40% acid ), locust bean gums, guar gums and their non-ionic derivatives, in particular hydroxypropyl guar, biopolysaccharide gums of microbial origin, in particular scleroglucan gums, xanthan gums. They are chosen in particular from celluloses such as cetyl hydroxyethylcelluloses; guar gums, in particular modified guars such as hydroxypropyl guars, agarose; pullulans, inulins, starches.

According to a particularly preferred form, the composition comprises as non-ionic polymeric hydrophilic gelling agent a pullulan

It is a polysaccharide made up of maltotriose units, known as α-(1,4)-α(1,6)-glucan. Three glucose units in maltotriose are connected by an α-(1,4) glycosidic bond, while consecutive maltotriose units are connected to each other by an α-(1,6) glycosidic bond. It is produced from starch by the fungus Aureobasidium pullulans. Pullulan is, for example, the products sold under the commercial reference PULLULAN PF 20® or PULLULAN COSMETIC GRADE® by the Hayashibara group in Japan or under the reference AQUA BETA® by the company Daiso Co. Ltd.

Advantageously, a composition according to the invention contains from 0.1% to 8% by weight of hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent expressed as dry matter, in particular from 1 to 6% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-ionic emulsifying surfactant with HLB ≤ 8.0

The composition according to the invention comprises at least one nonionic emulsifying surfactant having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression “nonionic” is intended to designate emulsifying surfactants not comprising ionic groups in their chemical structure (ie: positively charged cationic groups and/or negatively charged anionic groups).

Preferably, the nonionic emulsifying surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0 in accordance with the invention are chosen from
- fatty acid and polyglycerol esters;
- polyglyceryl polyricinoleates;
- their mixtures.

b) Fatty acid and polyglycerol esters

Fatty acid and polyglycerol esters, having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0. are preferably chosen from monoesters and diesters of C16-C22 fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising 3 to 10 units, more preferably 3 or 4 glyceryl units.

According to a particular method, we will use
- POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE like the product sold under the trade name ISOLAN GI 34 by the company EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT
- POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE as the commercial product sold under the name LAMEFORM TGI by the company BASF;
and their mixtures.

b) Polyglyceryl polyricinoleates

By “polyglyceryl polyricinoleate”, within the meaning of the invention, we designate an ester resulting from the esterification of one or more polyglycerols with at least one polyricinoleic acid.

A polyglycerol suitable for the invention can be chosen
among the compounds of general formula (I) following:
[Chem 3]
(III)
in which n represents an integer between 1 and 11, and in particular between 1 and 7.

A polyricinoleic acid suitable for the invention can be chosen from
the compounds of general formula (IV) following:
[Chem 4]
(IV)
in which m represents an integer, between 0 to 10, in particular between 1 and 8, and more particularly between 1 and 5.

A polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant suitable for the invention may be a total or partial ester.

Preferably, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant suitable for the invention is a partial ester.

For the purposes of the invention, the term “partial ester” is intended to designate a compound in which all the –OH groups of the polyglycerol units have not been esterified by polyricinoleic acid, in other words, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate compound comprising at least a free -OH group on the polyglycero chain.
By way of example, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate suitable for the invention may be a compound of the following general formula (V): (V)
in which R and R' represent, indifferently, radicals chosen from a hydrogen atom or a polyricinoleate chain, provided that at least one of these radicals R or R' is a polyricinoleate chain.

Preferably, at least one of the R or R' groups of the polyglycero chain is a hydrogen atom.

According to one embodiment, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant suitable for the invention may have an HLB (Hydrophilic Lipophilic Balance) of between 3 and 8.

As an example of polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant(s) suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of polyglyceryl-3-polyricinoleates, in particular marketed by the company Karlshamns under the name AKOLINE PGPR® or by the company Stéarinerie Dubois Yarns under the name DUB PGPR or by the company Dr. Straetmans under the name DERMOFEEL®, or by the company Croda under the name CRESTER PR® or by the company Sasol under the name IMWITOR 600®; polygyceryl-5 polyricinoleates marketed by the company Taiyo Kagaku Co. LTD under the name SUNSOFT NO.818R®; polyglyceryl-6 polyricinoleates marketed by the company Nikko Chemicals Co. LTD under the name HEXAGLYN PR-15® or by the company Sakamoto Yakuhin Kogyo Co. LTD under the name S-FACE CR-1001®; polyglyceryl-10 polyricinoleates marketed by the company Nikko-Chemicals Co. LTD under the name DECAGLYN PR-20®.

According to one embodiment, mixtures of these compounds can be used.

More particularly, a polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant suitable for the invention is Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate.

The nonionic emulsifying surfactant(s) of the polyglycerol fatty acid ester type, having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0 are present, preferably, at a content of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Optional components a) Pigments

The term “pigments” means white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous medium, intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the resulting deposit.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

By “mineral pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the inorganic pigment chapter.

Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue, titanium dioxide, metal powders such as aluminum powder and copper powder. The following mineral pigments can also be used: Ta ₂ O ₅ , Ti ₃ O ₅ , Ti ₂ O ₃ , TiO, ZrO ₂ mixed with TiO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , Nb ₂ O ₅ , CeO ₂ , ZnS.

The size of the pigment useful in the context of the present invention is generally greater than 100 nm and can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

According to a particular form of the invention, the pigments have a size characterized by a D [50] greater than 100 nm and which can go up to 10 μm, preferably from 200 nm to 5 μm, and more preferably from 300 nm to 1 μm.

The sizes are measured by static light scattering using a commercial particle size analyzer such as Master Sizer 3000® from Malvern, making it possible to understand the particle size distribution of all the particles over a wide range which can go from 0.01 µm to 1000 µm. The data is processed based on classical Mie diffusion theory. This theory is most suitable for size distributions ranging from submicron to multi-micron, it makes it possible to determine an “effective” particle diameter. This theory is described in particular in the work of Van de Hulst, H.C., “Light Scattering by Small Particles”, Chapters 9 and 10, Wiley, New York, 1957.

D [50] represents the maximum size that 50% of particles present by volume.

In the context of the present invention, the mineral pigments are more particularly iron oxide and/or titanium dioxide. By way of example, we can cite more particularly titanium dioxides and iron oxides.

As mineral pigments usable in the invention, we can also cite mother-of-pearl.

By “pearl”, we must understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular, produced by certain molluscs in their shell or synthesized and which present a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as titanium mica coated with iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or organic coloring materials are superimposed.

According to a particular embodiment, the pigments used according to the invention are chosen from mineral pigments.

We can also cite, as an example of mother-of-pearl, natural mica coated with titanium oxide, iron oxide, natural pigment or bismuth oxychloride.

Mother-of-pearl can more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

Among the pigments which can be used according to the invention, we can also cite those with an optical effect different from a simple conventional tint effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional coloring materials, such as, for example , monochromatic pigments. For the purposes of the invention, “stabilized” means devoid of the effect of color variability with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature.

For example, this material can be chosen from particles with a metallic reflection, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffracting pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brightening agents, as well as fibers, in particular, interference fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined in such a way as to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect in accordance with the invention.

According to a particular mode, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one uncoated pigment.

According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one pigment coated with at least one lipophilic or hydrophobic compound.

This type of pigment is particularly advantageous. To the extent that they are treated with a hydrophobic compound, they show a predominant affinity for an oily phase which can then transport them.

The coating may also include at least one additional non-lipophilic compound.

For the purposes of the invention, “the coating” of a pigment according to the invention generally designates the total or partial surface treatment of the pigment with a surfactant, absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto said pigment.

The surface-treated pigments can be prepared using chemical, electronic, mechano-chemical or mechanical surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art. Commercial products can also be used.

The surfactant can be absorbed, adsorbed or grafted onto the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction and creation of a covalent bond.

According to one variant, the surface treatment consists of coating the pigments.

The coating can represent from 0.1% to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5% to 5% by weight, of the total weight of the coated pigment.

The coating can be carried out for example by adsorption of a liquid surfactant on the surface of the solid particles by simple mixing with stirring of the particles and said surfactant, optionally hot, prior to the incorporation of the particles into the other ingredients of the makeup or care composition.

The coating can be carried out for example by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the solid pigment particles and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the particles. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Chemical surface treatment may involve diluting the surfactant in a volatile solvent, dispersing the pigments in this mixture, and then slowly evaporating the volatile solvent so that the surfactant is deposited on the surface of the pigments. .

When the pigment comprises a lipophilic or hydrophobic coating, the latter is preferably present in the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated according to the invention with at least one compound chosen from fluorinated surfactants; metallic soaps; N-acylated amino acids or their salts; lecithin and its derivatives; isopropyl trisostearyl titanate; isostearyl sebacate; natural plant or animal waxes; polar synthetic waxes; fatty esters; phospholipids; and their mixtures.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the pigments can be coated with a hydrophilic compound.

According to a particular mode, the coloring matter is an organic, synthetic, natural pigment or of natural origin.

By “organic pigment”, we mean any pigment which meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter. The organic pigment may in particular be chosen from the compounds nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

The organic pigment(s) may be chosen for example from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, melanin, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160, yellow pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000, 47 005, pigments green pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments coded in the Color Index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525, 15580, 15620, 15630, 15800, 15850, 15865, 15880, 17200, 26100, 45380, 45410, 5800 0, 73360, 73915, 75470, and the pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indolic and phenolic derivatives as described in patent FR 2 679 771.

The pigments can also be in the form of composite pigments as they are described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core covered at least partially with an organic pigment and at least one binder ensuring the fixation of organic pigments on the core.

The pigment can also be a lacquer. By lacquer we mean insolubilized dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the whole thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the organic dyes, we can cite cochineal carmine. We can also cite the products known under the following names: D&C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D&C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D&C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D&C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D&C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D&C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D&C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D&C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D&C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D&C Green (CI 61 570) , D&C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D&C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D&C Blue 1 (CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, we can cite the product known under the name D&C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

Preferably, the composition of the invention contains at least one pigment of the metal oxide type, in particular chosen from iron oxides, preferably black iron oxides (CI 77499).

Preferably, the pigment(s) are present in the composition in a content ranging from 1.0 to 30.0% by weight, preferably from 3.0% to 25.0% by weight, more particularly from 4.0 to 15.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

b) Mono-alcohol

According to a particular mode, a composition according to the invention additionally comprises one or more at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 4 carbon atoms. carbon.

The compositions of the invention may comprise one or more mono-alcohol(s).

This mono-alcohol can be represented for example by the formula RaOH, in which Ra represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms.

As a mono-alcohol, we can cite ethanol, isopropanol, propanol or butanol.

According to one embodiment, the compositions of the invention comprise ethanol.

The quantity of mono-alcohol(s) is, preferably, at least 1% by weight, and more preferably at least 2% by weight, and even better 2 to 4% by weight relative to the total weight of said composition.
c) Liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol or polyglycerol.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition of the invention additionally comprises at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and diol or polyglycerolated diester.

Liquid polyester means polyester that begins to flow under its own weight in less than one minute at room temperature (25°C).

By “unsaturated fatty acids” is meant, in the context of the present invention, mono- or polyunsaturated fatty acids comprising from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. Unsaturated fatty acid dimers may in particular include 2 to 4 unsaturations in their carbon chain. Unsaturated fatty acid trimers can include 3 to 6 installations in their carbon chain. Preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimers and/or trimers are polycarboxylic acids comprising at least 2 and up to 6 carboxylic acid functions per molecule.

In a preferred embodiment, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer may comprise from 28 to 44 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions. The unsaturated fatty acid trimer can comprise from 42 to 66 carbon atoms and 3 carboxylic acid functions.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester is obtained by condensation of an unsaturated fatty acid dimer comprising 36 carbon atoms and 2 carboxylic acid functions, and a diol.

Mixtures of dimers and trimers of unsaturated fatty acid and/or unsaturated fatty acid (unpolymerized and therefore corresponding to a monomer) can also be used in the context of the invention. In the case of such a mixture, a mixture comprising more than 50% by weight of dimers is preferred, for example a mixture comprising more than 90% by weight, preferably more than 95%, of acids in the form of dimers, the remainder of the mixture possibly being trimers and/or monomers of unsaturated fatty acids.

The unsaturated fatty acid dimer and/or trimer may optionally be hydrogenated after the polymerization reaction of the unsaturated fatty acid to in particular improve the stability of the dimeric or trimer product.

Hydrogenated fatty acid dimers (oleic or linoleic acid) are notably marketed under the brands EMPOL1008®, EMPOL1004®, EMPOL1025®, EMPOL1011® and EMPOL1062® by Cognis and PRIPOL 1006® (dilinoleic acid) by Uniqema, International. Uniqema also markets a hydrogenated fatty acid dimer under the name PRIPOL 1013® (hydrogenated dilinoleic acid).

Particularly preferably, the unsaturated fatty acid dimer is a dimer of linoleic acid, also called dilinoleic acid, obtained by intermolecular polymerization of linoleic acid.

The unsaturated fatty acid can be of natural origin, preferably plant-based. A fatty acid of plant origin can come from any plant source producing said fatty acid. For example, in the case of linoleic acid, we can use molecules extracted from soya or rapeseed.

The polyester in the composition according to the invention is therefore obtained by condensation of a long-chain fatty acid polymerized with a diol.

In the context of the present invention, the term “diol” denotes a C ₂ to C ₁₀ hydrocarbon compound, preferably C ₂ -C ₈ , and preferably C ₂ -C ₆ , the carbon chain of which is substituted by two hydroxyl functions. The hydrocarbon chain(s) may be interrupted by an oxygen atom.

The diols which can be used according to the invention can be linear, branched or cyclic alcohols, saturated or unsaturated. Preferably, the diol is a saturated linear diol.

Particularly preferably, the diol is a butanediol, in particular 1,2-butanediol, 1,3-butanediol or 1,4-butanediol, and preferably 1,4-butanediol.

Advantageously, the polyester used in the composition according to the invention has an average molecular weight of between 500 and 2,000, preferably between 1,000 and 2,000, and preferably between 1,200 and 1,800.

In a particularly preferred embodiment, the polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and diol is a polymer, or polyester, of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyester according to the invention is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol preferably having an average molecular weight of 1,500, a viscosity at 40°C of 2500 - 3500 cSt and a refractive index at 25°C 1.475-1.485.

In particular, we can cite in this respect the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H® (INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises from 2% to 10%, preferably from 3% to 6%, by weight of liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and of diol relative to the total weight of said composition.

Additives

The compositions according to the invention may additionally comprise additives commonly used in care and/or makeup products such as UV solar filters; moisturizing agents such as polyols such as glycerin, propanediol, pentylene glycol; emollients, fillers; fat-soluble coloring materials, water-soluble coloring materials; thickening or gelling agents other than those present in the aqueous and oily phase; preservatives, perfumes and their mixtures.

These additives may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01 to 15.0%, of the total weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose possible c) additional additives and/or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not, or substantially not, altered by the envisaged addition. .

Charges

The compositions in accordance with the invention may also comprise at least one filler, of an organic or mineral nature, making it possible, in particular, to give them complementary properties of matteness, coverage, hold and/or improved stability.

By “charge”, we must understand colorless or white, solid particles of all shapes, which are in an insoluble form and dispersed in the medium of the composition. Mineral or organic in nature, they give body or rigidity to the composition and/or softness and uniformity to the makeup.

The fillers used in the compositions according to the present invention can be of lamellar, globular, spherical, fiber or any other intermediate shape between these defined shapes.

The fillers according to the invention may or may not be superficially coated, and, in particular, they may be surface treated with amino acids, fluorinated derivatives or any other substance promoting the dispersion and compatibility of the filler in the composition.

Examples of mineral fillers include talc, mica, silica, hollow silica microspheres, kaolin, calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, boron nitride, glass microcapsules. or ceramic, silica and titanium dioxide composites, such as the TSG® series marketed by Nippon Sheet Glass, hydrophobic silica aerogels.

As examples of organic fillers, we can cite polyamide powders (Nylon® Orgasol from Atochem), polyethylene, polymethyl methacrylate, polytetrafluoroethylene powders (Teflon®), acrylic acid copolymers (Polytrap® from Dow Corning company), lauroyl lysine, hollow polymeric microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride/acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), Hexamethylene Diisocyanate/Trimethylol Hexyllactone copolymer powder (Plastic Powder® from Toshiki), synthetic or natural micronized waxes, metallic soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example, zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate, Polypore L200® (Chemdal Corporation). It can also be cellulose powder like that marketed by Daito in the Cellulobeads range.

According to a particularly preferred form, kaolin will be used.

Additional coloring materials

A composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one additional coloring material and preferably in an amount of at least 0.01% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For obvious reasons, this quantity is likely to vary significantly with regard to the intensity of the desired color effect and the color intensity provided by the coloring materials considered and its adjustment clearly falls within the skills of the specialist. art.

Additional coloring materials suitable for the invention may be fat-soluble.

By “fat-soluble coloring material”, within the meaning of the invention, is meant any generally organic compound, natural or synthetic, soluble in an oily phase or solvents miscible with a fatty substance and capable of coloring.

As fat-soluble dyes suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fat-soluble, synthetic or natural dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11. , DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5, Sudan red, carotenes (β-carotene, lycopene), xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), palm oil, Sudan brown, quinoline yellow , annatto, curcumin.

According to a particular form, the composition of the invention is a water-in-oil emulsion comprising
a) a continuous oily phase comprising
i) dextrin palmitate; And
ii) at least one volatile linear alkane chosen from dodecane, tridecane, a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) having the INCI name: UNDECANE (AND) TRIDECANE or a mixture of volatile linear alkanes in C ₉ -C ₁₂ with INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE; And
iii) a mixture of jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax, and more particularly a mixture of INCI name: JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3; And
b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase comprising a pullulan; And
c) POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE or POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE.

Preferably, the composition does not contain any film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase or any silicone compound.

Preferably, the composition contains at least one pigment chosen from iron oxides, in particular black iron oxides.

Preferably, the composition contains at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and polyglycerolated diol or diester as described above.

Physical characteristics a) Dry extract

The composition according to the invention advantageously comprises a dry extract content of at least 38.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, or even greater than 39% and less than 70% by weight, or even less than 60%. by weight, or even less than 55% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

For the purposes of the present invention, the “dry extract content” designates the content of non-volatile material.

The quantity of dry extract (abbreviated ES) of a composition according to the invention is measured using a commercial halogen desiccator “HALOGEN MOISTURE ANALYZER HR 73®” from Mettler TOLEDO. The measurement is based on the weight loss of a sample dried by halogen heating and therefore represents the percentage of residual material once the water and volatile materials have evaporated.

This technique is fully described in the device documentation provided by Mettler TOLEDO®.

The measurement protocol is as follows:

Approximately 2 g of the composition, hereinafter the sample, is spread on a metal dish which is introduced into the halogen desiccator mentioned above. The sample is then subjected to a temperature of 105°C until a constant weight is obtained. The Wet Mass of the sample, corresponding to its initial mass, and the Dry Mass of the sample, corresponding to its mass after halogen heating, are measured using a precision balance.

The experimental error linked to the measurement is of the order of plus or minus 2%.

The Dry Extract content is calculated as follows:
[Math 1]

b) Viscosity

A composition according to the invention is advantageously creamy at room temperature of 25°C.

It is preferably characterized by a viscosity ranging from 5 to 50 Pa.s, measured at an ambient temperature of 25°C using a Rhéomat RM100® rheometer in mobile 4 and with a shear speed of 200 revolutions/ min and duration of shearing of 10 min.

Such viscosity is particularly advantageous since it is best suited to the mascara application device and allows easy use for the consumer for a charging result.

The composition can be manufactured by known processes, generally used in the cosmetic field.

The composition used according to the invention can be a makeup composition, a makeup base, in particular keratin fibers, or base coat, a composition to be applied to makeup, also called a top coat, or even a treatment composition. keratin fibers.

More specifically, the composition according to the invention is a mascara.

Such compositions are prepared in particular according to the general knowledge of those skilled in the art.
Packaging and application set or kit

The present invention also relates to an assembly, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising:
- a packaging device comprising a composition as previously described,
- an applicator of said composition.

Said applicator can be integral with a gripping member forming a cover for said packaging device. In other words, said applicator can be mounted in a removable position on said device between a closed position and a position clear of a dispensing opening of the device for packaging said composition.

A keratin fiber coating assembly adapted to the invention may comprise an applicator configured to apply said cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers, and where appropriate a packaging device adapted to receive said composition.

Applicator

The applicator includes means for smoothing and/or separating keratin fibers, such as eyelashes or eyebrows, in particular in the form of teeth, hairs, pimples or other reliefs.

The applicator is designed to apply the composition to the eyelashes or eyebrows, and may include, for example, a brush or a comb.

The applicator can also be used to finish makeup, on a region of the eyelashes or eyebrows that has been made up or has been applied with composition.

The brush can have a twisted core and bristles caught between the turns of the core, or be made in another way.

The comb is, for example, made in one piece by molding plastic material.

In certain embodiments, the application element is mounted at the end of a rod, which can be flexible, which can help to improve comfort during application.

Conditioning device

The packaging device includes a container for housing the keratin fiber coating composition. This composition can then be taken from the container by immersing the applicator in it.

This applicator can be attached to a closure element of the container. This closure element can form a gripping member of the applicator. This gripping member can form a cover to be mounted removably on said container by any appropriate means such as by screwing, snap-fastening, fitting or the like. Such a container can therefore reversibly accommodate said applicator.

This container can possibly be equipped with a wiper suitable for removing excess product taken by the applicator.

A process for applying the composition according to the invention to the eyelashes or eyebrows may also comprise the following steps:
- form a deposit of the cosmetic composition on the eyelashes or eyebrows,
- leave the deposit on the eyelashes or eyebrows, the deposit may dry.

It should be noted that according to another embodiment the applicator can form a product container. In such a case a container can for example be provided in the gripping member and an internal channel can internally connect this gripping member to the raised application elements.

Finally, it should be noted that the packaging and application assembly can be in the form of a kit, the applicator and the packaging device can be housed separately under the same packaging item.

The expressions “between… and…” and “ranging from… to…” must be understood inclusive, unless otherwise specified.

In the description and examples, unless otherwise indicated, the percentages are weight percentages. The percentages are therefore expressed by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The ingredients are mixed, in the order and under the conditions easily determined by those skilled in the art.

The invention will now be described by means of examples which are present for illustrative purposes only and should not be interpreted as limiting examples of the invention.

Examples 1 to 3: mascaras

Examples 1 to 3 of mascara according to the invention were prepared.

Ingredients (INCI name) Ex 1
invention Ex 2 invention Ex 3
invention C9-12 ALKANE (VEGELIGHT SILK®) qsp 100
- qsp 100 UNDECANE (and) TRIDECANE (CETIOL ULTIMATE®) - qsp 100 - NATURAL WAXES 30 30 35 KAOLIN (IMERCARE 04K®) 5 5 2 IRON OXIDES (UNIPURE TRIPLE BLACK LC 990®) 4.2 4.2 4.2 DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER
(VISCOPLAST 14436H®) 5 5 5 DEXTRIN PALMITATE (RHEOPEARL TL2®) 1 1 3 WATER 25 25 15 PULLULAN 4 4 2.5 POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE (LAMEFORM TGI®) 2 2 2 CAPRYLYL GLYCOL 0.3 0.3 0.3 MAGNESIUM SULFATE 0.7 0.7 0.7 SODIUM DEHYDROACETATE 0.3 0.3 0.3 ETHANOL 2 2 3

Preparation protocol

The raw materials were weighed beforehand using a balance (accuracy = 0.01 g).

The ingredients, except the ethanol, were introduced into a manufacturing tank where the temperature is controlled. The set temperature was set at 90°C.

The mixture was emulsified at 90°C after complete melting for 15 minutes with vigorous stirring using the rotor-stator.

Then it was cooled to 30°C with rotor-stator stirring.

Ethanol was introduced at 30°C with rotor-stator stirring.

Comparative tests

1. Appearance of mascaras

1. Tenue du mascara sur les cils

After 24 hours, at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure, the macroscopic appearance of the sample was checked using an optical microscope.

1. Hold of mascara on eyelashes

In order to evaluate the staying power of the mascara, each example was applied to a sample of false eyelashes and left to dry for 4 hours. The test piece was then sprayed with water and then placed on a support. Five back and forth movements using the finger were made to simulate friction. The intensity of the black trace and the quantity of black deposit lost were evaluated.

Makeup result on the eyelashes

The makeup result of the formulas was evaluated after packaging in packaging with a fiber brush.

The results are summarized in the table below.

Ingredients (INCI name) Ex 1
invention Ex 2 invention Ex 3
invention Appearance after
24 hours Black, smooth, homogeneous formula Black, smooth, homogeneous formula Black, smooth, homogeneous formula Outfit Good resistance to water and friction Good resistance to water and friction Good resistance to water and friction Makeup result Makeup charging and volume Makeup charging and volume Makeup charging and volume

The results of the hold and makeup tests showed that Examples 1, 2 and 3 according to the invention comprising a natural wax, a linear volatile alkane, a dextrin and fatty acid ester, a natural polymeric gelling agent presented good hold and a satisfactory makeup result.

Claims (30)

Composition for care and/or makeup of keratin fibers, in particular eyelashes and/or eyebrows, in the form of a water-in-oil emulsion comprising, preferably in a physiologically acceptable medium:
a) a continuous oily phase comprising
i) at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid; And
ii) at least one volatile linear alkane; And
ii) at least one natural wax; And
b) an aqueous phase dispersed in said oily phase comprising a natural hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent or of natural origin; And
c) at least one nonionic surfactant having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0. Composition according to claim 1 does not contain any film-forming polymer suspended in the aqueous phase or any silicone compound. Composition according to claim 1, where the total concentration in the oil phase of the composition of
the invention varies from 20 to 80% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 40 to 70% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, where the ester of dextrin and fatty acid is a dextrin palmitate or a dextrin myristate, and more particularly a dextrin palmitate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the dextrin ester or esters are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably from 0.2 to 5% by weight, and more preferably from 0.5 to 4% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the alkane or volatile linear alkanes contain from 7 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably from 9 to 14 carbon atoms. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the alkane or volatile linear alkanes are of plant origin. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising a mixture of n-undecane (C ₁₁ ) and n-tridecane (C ₁₃ ) having the INCI name: UNDECANE (AND) TRIDECANE. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising a mixture of volatile linear C9-C12 alkanes with the INCI name: C9-12 ALKANE. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising n-dodecane. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, comprising n-tridecane. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the total concentration of volatile linear alkane(s) varies from 5 to 50% by weight, and more particularly ranging from 15 to 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the natural wax is chosen from jojoba wax, carnauba wax, rice wax, sunflower seed wax, and mixtures thereof, and in particular is a mixture jojoba wax and sunflower seed wax, and more particularly a mixture of INCI name: JOJOBA ESTERS (and) HELIANTHUS ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX (and) POLYGLYCERIN-3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the natural wax(s) is(are) present at concentrations ranging from 15 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 35% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least 5% water by weight, better still at least 15% by weight, more particularly from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the natural or natural non-ionic polymeric gelling agent(s) are polysaccharides, preferably chosen from pullulans. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing from 0.1% to 8% by weight of hydrophilic polymeric gelling agent expressed as dry matter, in particular from 1 to 6% by weight of hydrophilic gelling agent relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, where the nonionic emulsifying surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0 in accordance with the invention are chosen from
- fatty acid and polyglycerol esters;
- polyglyceryl polyricinoleates;
- their mixtures. Composition according to claim 18, wherein the ester of fatty acid and polyglycerol, having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0 is chosen from monoesters and diesters of C ₁₆ -C ₂₂ fatty acid and polyglycerol comprising from 3 to 10 units, more preferably 3 or 4 units of glyceryl, in particular chosen from POLYGLYCERYL-4 ISOSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIISOSTEARATE and their mixtures. Composition according to claim 18, wherein the polyglyceryl polyricinoleate surfactant is Polyglyceryl-6 Polyricinoleate. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the nonionic emulsifying surfactant(s) having an HLB less than or equal to 8.0 are present, at a content of 1.0 to 10.0% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 2.0 to 10% by weight relative to Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, containing at least one pigment, preferably of the metal oxide type, in particular chosen from iron oxides, preferably black iron oxides (CI 77499). Composition according to claim 22, where the pigment(s) are present at contents ranging from 1 to 30% by weight; and even better from 3 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising one or more at least one mono-alcohol comprising from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, in particular ethanol. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, additionally comprising at least one liquid polyester obtained by condensation of dimer and/or trimer of unsaturated fatty acids and polyglycerolated diol or diester. Composition according to claim 25, where the polyester is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and 1,4-butanediol with the INCI name: DILINOLEIC ACID/BUTANEDIOL COPOLYMER. Composition according to claim 25, where the polyester is a polyester of dilinoleic acid and Diisostearoyl Polyglyclyceryl-3 in isolated form with INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE or in the form of a mixture with Capric/Caprylic Triglyceride oil having the INCI name: DIISOSTEAROYL POLYGLYCERYL-3 DIMER DILINOLEATE (and) CAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims in the form of an eyelash product such as a mascara, an eyebrow product or an eye contour product such as an eye liner. Set, or kit, for packaging and applying a cosmetic composition for coating keratin fibers comprising:
- a packaging device comprising the composition as defined in any one of the preceding claims;
- an applicator of said composition. Process for coating keratin materials, in particular keratin fibers such as eyelashes and/or eyebrows, comprising a step of applying to said keratin materials at least one composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 28.