FR3127695A1 - OILY DISPERSION COMPRISING A POLYMERIC PARTICLE, A STABILIZING AGENT WITH A C9-C22 ALKYL GROUP, AND A PLASTICIZER METHOD FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN MATERIALS USING THE OILY DISPERSION - Google Patents

Abstract

Title: OILY DISPERSION COMPRISING A POLYMERIC PARTICLE, A STABILIZING AGENT WITH A C 9 -C 22 ALKYL GROUP, AND A PLASTICIZER METHOD FOR THE TREATMENT OF KERATIN MATERIALS USING THE OILY DISPERSION The present invention relates to an oily dispersion (A) comprising: at at least one particle consisting of ethylenic polymer i), at least one polymeric stabilizing agent comprising a (C9-C22)alkyl group ii), and at least one hydrocarbon fatty substance which is liquid at 20°C and 1 atmosphere iii) and at least one plasticizer iv). The invention also relates to a method for treating keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the skin or the hair, the eyelashes implementing the application to said materials of at least one oily dispersion (A); a method of preparing the oily dispersion, a multi-compartment kit comprising the ingredients i) to iv). The oily dispersion (A), and the process for treating keratin materials as defined above, make it possible to obtain a treatment of said materials that is resistant in particular to shampoos, to sebum), to sweat, and/or to water but also to fatty substances, in particular food, such as oils.

Description

OILY DISPERSION COMPRISING A POLYMERIC PARTICLE, A STABILIZING AGENT WITH A C9-C22 ALKYL GROUP, AND A PLASTICIZER METHOD FOR TREATMENT OF KERATIN MATERIALS USING THE OILY DISPERSION

The present invention relates to an oily dispersion (A) comprising: at least one particle consisting of ethylenic polymer i), at least one polymeric stabilizing agent comprising a (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl group ii), and at least one hydrocarbon fatty substance liquid at 20°C and 1 atmosphere iii) and at least one plasticizer iv). A subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratinous materials, in particular human materials such as the skin or the hair, the eyelashes implementing the application to said materials of at least one oily dispersion (A); a method of preparing the oily dispersion, a multi-compartment kit comprising the ingredients i) to iv).

During the aging process, different signs appear on the skin, very characteristic of this aging, resulting in particular in a modification of the structure and functions of the skin. The main clinical signs of skin aging are in particular the appearance of fine lines and deep wrinkles, which increase with age.

It is known to treat these signs of aging by using cosmetic or dermatological compositions containing active agents capable of combating aging, such as α-hydroxy acids, β-hydroxy acids and retinoids. These active ingredients act on wrinkles by eliminating dead skin cells and accelerating the cell renewal process. However, these active agents have the drawback of only being effective for the treatment of wrinkles after a certain application time. However, it is increasingly sought to obtain an immediate effect from the active agents used, leading rapidly to a smoothing of wrinkles and fine lines and to the disappearance of signs of fatigue.

Cosmetic products often require the use of a film-forming polymer to obtain a deposit of the product on keratin materials with good cosmetic properties. In particular, it is necessary for the film-forming deposit to have good hold, in particular for the deposit not to transfer on contact with fingers, clothing, as well as good hold in contact with water, in particular rain. or during the shower or even that the deposit is insensitive to perspiration or to sebum, as well as to the fatty substances of food, in particular food fatty substances such as oils.

It is known to use dispersions of polymer particles in organic media such as hydrocarbon oils. The polymers are used in particular as a film-forming agent in make-up products such as mascaras, eyeliners, eye shadows or lipsticks. Document EP 0 749 747 describes in the examples dispersions in hydrocarbon oils (paraffin oil, isododecane) of acrylic polymers stabilized with polystyrene/copoly(ethylene-propylene) diblock copolymers. The film obtained after application of the dispersion to the skin is not very shiny. Document FR 1362795 also describes the use of a dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles containing hydrocarbon oils for making up the lips and eyelashes. Document WO 2010/046229 describes dispersions in isododecane of acrylic polymers stabilized by stabilizing polymers. Document FR 1 362 795 describes the use of a dispersion of surface-stabilized polymer particles containing hydrocarbon oils for making up the lips and eyelashes.

In the field of dyeing keratin fibers, it is already known to dye keratin fibers by various techniques using direct dyes for non-permanent dyes or dye precursors for permanent dyes.

Non-permanent coloring or direct coloring consists in dyeing the keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes. These dyes are colored and coloring molecules with an affinity for keratin fibres. They are applied to the keratin fibers for the time necessary to obtain the desired coloration, then rinsed off.

The conventional dyes which are used are in particular dyes of the nitrobenzene, anthraquinone, nitropyridine, azo, xanthene, acridine, azine, triarylmethane type or natural dyes.

Some of these dyes can be used under lightening conditions, which makes it possible to obtain visible colorations on dark hair.

It is also known to dye keratin fibers permanently by oxidation dyeing. This coloring technique consists in applying to the keratin fibers a composition containing dye precursors such as oxidation bases and couplers. These precursors under the action of an oxidizing agent will form one or more colored species in the hair.

The variety of molecules involved in oxidation bases and couplers makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors and the resulting colorations are generally permanent, powerful, and resistant to external agents, in particular to light, bad weather, washing, perspiration and rubbing.

To be visible on dark hair, these two coloring techniques require prior or simultaneous bleaching of the keratin fibres. This bleaching step implemented with an oxidizing agent such as hydrogen peroxide or persalts leads to a significant degradation of the keratin fibres, which alters their cosmetic properties. The hair then tends to become rough, more difficult to disentangle and more fragile.

Another coloring method is to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorations, especially on dark hair, since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. The use of pigment for coloring keratin fibers is for example described in patent application FR 2 741 530, which recommends the use for the temporary coloring of keratin fibers of a composition comprising at least one dispersion of particles of film-forming polymer comprising at least one acid function and at least one pigment dispersed in the continuous phase of said dispersion.

The colors obtained by this method of coloring are eliminated from the first shampoo.

It is also known from patent application FR 2 907 678 to produce colored coatings for the hair from a composition comprising a polysiloxane/polyurea block copolymer and a pigment. However, with such a composition, the coatings obtained can sometimes lack homogeneity and the individualization of the hair after combing is not always satisfactory.

Document FR 3 014 875 describes the use of a dispersion of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate polymer particles surface-stabilized with a polymeric stabilizing agent of isobornyl (meth)acrylate in a non-aqueous medium. containing an oil. The deposits obtained from this technology are not always satisfactory, particularly in terms of resistance to sebum.

Document FR 3 029 786 is concerned with dispersions for making up polymer particles stabilized by at least one stabilizing agent which is a C 8 alkyl (meth)acrylate homopolymer or a C ₈ alkyl (meth)acrylate copolymer. C ₈ alkyl (2-ethylhexyl) and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate. These dispersions are not always satisfactory in terms of resistance to fatty substances and sebum, which may be a hindrance to their use in making up the lips, for example. In addition, these dispersions may have a feel that is considered too "sticky" after application to keratin materials, which may be prohibitive for certain applications such as lip or eyelash makeup...

It is also known to use other polymer particles stabilized with C ₉ -C ₂₂ alkyl (alkyl)acrylate polymers for the treatment in particular of the hair (see FR 3 097 756).

Thus, the object of the present invention is to provide a composition for treating keratin materials, in particular skin, preferably human skin, and more preferably the skin of the face, the residual film of which after application to said materials adheres well to keratin materials. , is elastic with the least possible fragmentation, the least possible detachment from the substrate, non-sticky, exhibiting good resistance to external attacks, and over time, does not bleed, resistant to sweat, sebum , not very sensitive to oils such as edible oils, in particular to sebum.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a composition for the treatment of keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the residual film of which after application to the said fibers adheres well to the fibers, without fragmentation / detachment of said fibers, exhibiting good resistance to attacks such as brushing, not bleeding, resistant to sweat and sebum, to light and to bad weather, remanent to shampoos and to the various attacks that said fibers can undergo, in particular sebum, without degradation of said fibers and while retaining perfectly individualized keratin fibers.

The technical problem has been solved by the use of an oily dispersion (A) for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the hair, the eyelashes or the skin in which the oily dispersion (A) is preferably anhydrous , and includes:
i) one or more particle(s) comprising one or more polymer(s) chosen from:
a) ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl;
b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, and of b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and /or aryl such as benzyl; in particular b2) is a (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly the copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl and of (meth)acrylic acid )acrylic;
c) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl; And
ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) chosen from:
d) ethylenic (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl homopolymers, preferably (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl ethylenic (meth)acrylate homopolymers; And
e) ethylenic copolymers of e1) (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl, and of e2) (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, preferably the copolymers e) are copolymers of (meth) acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl and of (meth) acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl;
iii) one or more hydrocarbon liquid fatty substance(s);
iv) one or more plasticizer(s); And
v) optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) chosen from f) dyes, g) pigments; h) active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, and j) UV filters (A) and/or (B) as well as m) mixtures thereof.

More particularly, the subject of the invention relates to the use of the oily dispersion (A) as defined previously for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, eyebrows, or the skin, preferably for coloring keratin fibers and/or shaping keratin fibers such as the hair, caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, and/or for making up keratin materials such as the hair or the skin.

A subject of the invention is also the oily dispersion (A) as defined previously, as well as a process for treating keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, eyebrows or the skin, comprising the application to the said materials oily dispersion (A) as defined previously.

The invention also relates to a kit or device with several compartments comprising the ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v) as defined previously, in which the ingredients i) to iii) are in the same compartment, iv) in another compartment, and possibly v) is in another compartment, or in the compartment with i) to iii), or in the compartment with iv).

The oily dispersion (A), and the process for treating keratin materials as defined above, make it possible to obtain, after application to said materials, a residual film which adheres well to said materials while remaining elastic, fragmenting little or not at all, peeling off little or not at all, resistant in particular to shampoos, to sebum, to sweat, and/or to water, but also to fatty substances, in particular food, such as oils, in particular to sebum. In addition, the dispersion is easy to implement in compositions, in particular cosmetic compositions, is easy to manufacture and remains stable over time. Indeed, the oily dispersion (A) in accordance with the present invention makes it possible to obtain deposits which are very resistant to external attacks, in particular sebum and fatty substances which are found in food, in particular liquid fatty substances such as vegetable oils and in particular olive oil. It appears that the make-up produced with at least one oily dispersion (A), in particular lip make-up, is without color fragmentation after application, resistant to external aggressions such as liquid fatty substances, in particular vs. vegetable oils such as olive oil. In addition, the makeups obtained with the oily dispersions (A) are very aesthetic, comfortable, easy to apply, and shiny. In addition, these dispersions of polymer particles are found at a high dry matter content in the hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance(s) iii). It appears that the application of the oily dispersions (A) of the invention to the keratin fibers makes it possible to obtain homogeneous coatings which are resistant to external aggressions (sun, water, shampoos, perspiration, sebum, etc.).

In addition, when the composition comprises one or more dye(s) and/or pigment(s), the colored keratin materials according to the invention have a visible coloration on all types of materials, in particular on dark keratin materials, in a persistent manner on soaps, shower gels, or shampoos while preserving the physical qualities of the keratin material. Such coloring is in particular resistant to the external aggressions that the keratin fibers, in particular the hair, may undergo, such as daily brushing, brushing and styling and perspiration. The use of oily dispersion (A) on keratin materials, in particular on keratin fibres, makes it possible to obtain a smooth and homogeneous deposit. Furthermore, it has surprisingly been observed that the keratin fibers remained perfectly individualized and could be styled without any problem.

Within the meaning of the present invention, and unless a different indication is given:
- A "alkyl radicalis a saturated hydrocarbon group at C₁-VS₈, linear or branched, especially in C₁-VS_6,preferably in C₁-VS₄such as methyl, ethyl, isopropyl orI-propyl, andyou-butyl;
- a stem "( VS ₉ -VS ₂₂ )alkylis a saturated hydrocarbon group at C₉-VS₂₂, especially in C₁₀-VS_{20 ,}preferentially in VS₁₂-VS₁₈, more preferably in VS₁₂-VS_{16 ,}linear or branched, such as stearyl, behenyl, isodecyl, lauryl, hexadecyl, or myristyl;
- A "radical alkyleneis a divalent saturated hydrocarbon group at C₁-VS₈, linear or branched, especially in C₁-VS_6,preferably in C₁-VS₄such as methylene, ethylene, or propylene;
- a stem "cycloalkylis a saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, norbornyl, or isobornyle the cycloalkyl radical being able to be substituted by one or more groups (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is an isobornyl group.
- a stem "cyclic» is a cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, aromatic or non-aromatic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 1 ring, and comprising from 3 to 10 carbon atoms such as cyclohexyl or phenyl;
- a stem "aryl» is an aromatic unsaturated cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 12 carbon atoms, mono or bicyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring and 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl;
- a stem "aryloxy» is an aryl-oxy radicaliearyl-O- with aryl as previously defined, preferably phenoxy;
- a stem "aryl (VS ₁ -VS ₄ ) there vs oxyis an aryl-(C₁-VS₄)alkyl-O-, preferably benzoxy;
- by "materials keratinous» is particularly meant the skin (keratinized epithelium) and the human keratin fibers such as the hair, the eyelashes, eyebrows, and body hair, preferentially the hair, the eyebrows and the eyelashes, even more preferentially the hair;
- by keratin fibres”individualized» means keratinous fibres, in particular hair which, after application of the composition and drying, is not stuck together (or is all separated from one another) and therefore does not form clusters of fibres;
- by "insoluble monomer», we therefore mean any monomer whose homopolymer or copolymer is not in soluble form, that is to say completely dissolved at a concentration greater than 5%
by weight at room temperature (20°C) in said medium. However, the so-called monomersinsoluble» may, as monomers, be soluble or insoluble in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii), it being understood that they become insoluble after polymerization in the hydrocarbon liquid(s) iii);
- by "homopolymer“means a polymer resulting from the polymerization of identical monomers;
- by "copolymer“means a polymer resulting from the polymerization of different monomers, in particular at least 2 different monomers. Preferably, the ethylenic copolymer of the invention is derived from 2 or 3 different monomers, more preferably derived from 2 different monomers;
- by "ethylenic monomer» means an organic compound comprising one or more unsaturations of the >C=C< types, conjugated or not, capable of polymerizing;
- by "soluble monomer», means any monomer whose homopolymer or copolymer, preferably homopolymer, is at least 5% soluble by weight, at 20°C, in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) of the dispersion. The homopolymer is completely dissolved in the carbonaceous liquid(s) iii), visually at 20°C i.e. there is no visual note of deposit, nor precipitate, nor agglomerate, nor insoluble sediment. However, the so-called monomerssoluble» may, as monomers, be soluble or insoluble in the liquid carbonaceous fatty substance(s) iii), it being understood that they become soluble after polymerization in the hydrocarbon liquid(s) iii);
- by" fat bodyis meant an organic compound that is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25°C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably 1% even more preferably at 0 ,1%). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms or a sequence of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as chloroform, ethanol, benzene, vaseline oil or decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane. These fatty substances are neither polyoxyethylenated nor polyglycerolated. They are different from fatty acids because salified fatty acids constitute soaps that are generally soluble in aqueous media;
- by fat body "liquidis meant in particular a fatty substance that is liquid at 25° C. and 1 atmosphere, preferably said fatty substance has a viscosity less than or equal to 7000 centipoise at 20° C.;
- by fat body "hydrocarbon» means a fatty substance which comprises at least 50% by weight, in particular from 50 to 100% by weight, for example from 60 to 99% by weight, or even from 65 to 95% by weight, or even from 70 to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of said fatty substance, of carbonaceous compound, liquid at 25°C, having an overall solubility parameter according to HANSEN's solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa)1/2, or d a mixture of such compounds;
- The global solubility parameter δ according to the HANSEN solubility space is defined in the article "Solubility parameter values" by Grulke, in the work "Polymer Handbook" 3^thedition, Chapter VII, pages 519-559 by the relation δ = ( d_D ²+d_P ²+d_H ²)^1/2in which: - d_Dcharacterizes the LONDON dispersion forces resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks, - d_Pcharacterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles, - d_Hcharacterizes the specific interaction forces (type hydrogen bonds, acid/base, donor/acceptor, etc.); The definition of solvents in the three-dimensional solubility space according to HANSEN is described in the article by HANSEN: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967);
- by "oil» means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure;
- by "hydrocarbon oilmeans an oil formed essentially, or even consisting, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen and nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon or fluorine atoms. It may contain hydroxy, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups;
- by "volatile oilmeans an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials, in particular the skin, in less than an hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at ambient temperature, having in particular a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000 Pa (10^-3to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13,000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) ;
- by "non-volatile oil“, means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa at room temperature and atmospheric pressure;
- by "silicone oil“means an oil comprising at least one silicon atom, and in particular at least one Si—O group; the silicone oil can be volatile or non-volatile;
- by "dispersing agentis meant a compound which makes it possible to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent can be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed; in particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersing agents also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. Said agent can be charged, it can be anionic, cationic, zwitterionic or neutral;
- by "pigment", we mean all the pigments bringing color and/or pearly effect to keratinous materials, of synthetic or natural origin, the solubility of the pigments in water at 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg) is lower at 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%;
- by "lacquermeans dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the resulting assembly remaining insoluble during use. The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum. Among the organic dyes, mention may be made of cochineal carmine
- by "hair dyes» we mean oxidation dyes, and direct dyes used to color keratin fibers, in particular human fibers such as hair.
- by dispersion or compositionanhydrous“means a dispersion or composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and in particular free of water; where appropriate, such small amounts of water can in particular be supplied by ingredients of the composition which can contain residual amounts thereof;
- by "special effect pigmentsmeans pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) that is not uniform and changes according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature, viewing angles). observation…). They are therefore opposed to colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or transparent classic shade; And
- by "sub-micron"or in English"sub micronic» means pigments whose particle size has been micronized by the micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micronmeter (μm), in particular between 0.1 μm and 0.9 μm, and preferably between 0, 2μm and 0.6μm.

The oily dispersion (A)

The oily oily dispersion (A) of the invention comprises i) one or more particles of at least one surface-stabilized polymer with ii) at least one stabilizing agent in a preferably anhydrous medium, additionally containing iii) at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance and iv) at least one plasticizer.

In order to obtain such a dispersion (A), it is proposed to polymerize particular monomers capable of forming the polymer core i) in the presence of a polymeric random stabilizer ii) comprising mainly a soluble part ii) and a minor part an insoluble part i) in the dispersion medium, i.e. in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) and in the absence or in the presence of plasticizer(s) iv); preferably the polymerization of i) and ii) is carried out in the absence of plasticizer iv).

The dispersions according to the invention consist of particles, generally spherical, and of at least one surface-stabilized polymer, in an anhydrous medium.
Preferably, said particles i) are not, or only slightly, crosslinked

i) Polymer particles

The particle(s) of the oily dispersion (A) of the invention preferably consists of one or more polymer(s) chosen from:
a) ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers of (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl;
b) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, and of acid (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylic acid, preferably ethylenic copolymers of (meth)acrylic acid;
c) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably ethylenic copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl; And

Preferably, the particle(s) i) consists of an ethylenic polymer core derived from homopolymers a) or from copolymers b), or c) as defined above.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an ethylenic acrylate homopolymer a) resulting from the polymerization of identical monomer of formula (I) : Formula (I) in which:
- R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl, and
- R′ representing a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an ethylenic acrylate copolymer b) resulting from the polymerization:
- at least one monomer of formula (I) as defined above, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; And
- a monomer of formula (II) Formula (II) in which
- R as defined above, in particular acrylic acid.

According to this embodiment, the amount of acrylic acid varies from 0.1% to 15% by weight relative to the weight of monomers of the particle i) and the polymer of the particles i) is in particular a copolymer resulting from the copolymerization of acrylic acid with one or more C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers, in particular chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate and ethyl (meth)acrylate.

According to another preferred embodiment of the invention, the polymer constituting the particles i) is an ethylenic acrylate copolymer b) resulting from the polymerization:
- of at least two different monomers: of formula (I) as defined above, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; And
- optionally a monomer of formula (II) as defined above, in particular acrylic acid.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the polymer of the particles i) is a polymer derived from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers. The monomers are preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-(meth)acrylate, -butyl, tert-butyl (meth)acrylate and more preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate.

Advantageously, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate monomer is used. Preferably, the monomers are chosen from methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate.

Also, a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl methacrylate monomer is particularly used. Preferably, the monomers are chosen from methyl methacrylate and ethyl methacrylate, more particularly methyl methacrylate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oily dispersion (A) comprises from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular 4% to 25%, in particular from 5% to 20% by weight of monomers (C ₁ -C ₆ ) (alkyl) acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl included in d) or e) in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in the said dispersion.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the oily dispersion (A) comprises from 60% to 98% by weight, in particular from 75% to 96% of monomers a) to c) relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion.

Preferably, the monomers capable of forming the polymeric core of the particle i) are chosen from the monomers insoluble in the hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the dispersion (A). The insoluble monomers preferably represent 100% by weight of the total weight of the monomers forming the polymer core of the particle.

Ethylene monomers with acid, anhydride, aryl function:

According to one embodiment of the invention, the particle or particles i), comprise b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, and of b2 ) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and/or aryl groups such as benzyl.

More particularly, the ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and/or aryl groups are chosen from (1) , (2) , (3) , (4) and (5) :
(1) R ¹ (R ² )C=C(R ³ )-Acid with R ¹ , R ² and R ³ representing a hydrogen atom or a CO ₂ H, H ₂ PO ₄ , or SO ₃ H group, and Acid representing a carboxy, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid, preferably carboxy, group, it being understood that R ¹ , R ² and R ³ cannot simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom;
(2) H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-N(R')-Alk-Acid with R and R', which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl; Alk represents a (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkylene group optionally substituted by at least one group chosen from Acid as defined previously and hydroxy; and Acid is as defined above, preferably carboxy or sulphonic acid;
(3) Ar-(R ^a )C=C(R ^b )-R ^c with R ^a , R ^b and R ^c , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group , and Ar represents an aryl group, preferably benzyl, optionally substituted by at least one CO ₂ H, H ₂ PO ₄ or SO ₃ H acid group, preferably substituted by a CO ₂ H or SO ₃ H group,
(4) Maleic anhydride of formula (4a) and (4b): Formulas (4b) and (4b) in which R _a , R _b and R _c , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group, preferably R _a , R _b , and R _c represent a hydrogen atom. Preferably, an ethylenically unsaturated anhydride monomer of the invention is of formula (4b) and more preferably is maleic anhydride; And
(5) H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-OH with R representing a hydrogen atom, or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl.

Preferably b2) is a (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylic acid, more particularly b) is (are) copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl and of acid (meth) acrylic.

More preferably b2) is chosen from crotonic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, vinylbenzoic acid, vinylphosphoric acid, acrylic, methacrylic acid, acrylamiopropanesulfonic acid, acrylamidoglycolic acid, acrylic acid and their salts, even more preferentially b2) represents acrylic acid.

Preferably only one type of polymer particles i) is used in the invention.

The polymer particle or particles i) of the dispersion (A) preferably have a number-average size ranging from 5 nm and 600 nm, in particular ranging from 10 nm to 500 nm, and better still ranging from 20 nm to 400 nm.

The final particle size is preferably greater than 100 nm. In particular a number-average size ranging from 100 nm and 600 nm; more particularly ranging from 150 nm to 500 nm, even more particularly ranging from 160 nm to 400 nm.

The average particle size is determined by conventional methods known to those skilled in the art. A MALVERN model NanoZS laser particle sizer (particularly well suited to submicronic dispersions) is used to measure the size distribution of these samples. The operating principle of this type of device is based on dynamic light scattering (DLS), also called quasi-elastic light scattering (QELS) or photon correlation spectroscopy (PCS).

The sample is pipetted into a single-use plastic tank (4 transparent sides, 1 cm side and 4 mL capacity) placed in the measuring cell. The data are analyzed on the basis of a cumulant method which leads to a unimodal particle size distribution characterized by an average diameter in intensity d(nm) and a polydispersity factor in sizes Q. The results can also be expressed in the form of data statistics such as D10; D50 (median), D90 and mode.

Other granulometry techniques make it possible to obtain this type of information, such as analysis of individual particle tracking (Nanoparticle Tracking Analysis, NTA), laser diffraction (DL), acoustic extinction spectroscopy (AES) , Doppler velocimetry by spatial filter or image analysis.

ii) Stabilizing agent(s)

The dispersion (A) according to the invention also comprises one or more stabilizing agents ii). Preferably only one type of stabilizer ii) is used in the invention.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from d) ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl in particular homopolymers ethylenic (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₁₈ )alkyl, preferably ethylenic homopolymers (meth)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl and more preferably ethylenic homopolymers (meth) (C ₉ -C ₁₈ )alkyl acrylate.

More particularly, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) consists of ethylenic polymers chosen from d) ethylenic homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers of formulaH ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R''withRrepresenting a hydrogen atom or group (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as methyl, and R’’ representing a group (C₉-VS₂₂) preferably alkyl (VS₉-VS₁₈)alkyl. Preferably R'' represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl or behenyl.

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from e) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate, (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl and of ( C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl. Particularly (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₁₈ )alkyl and (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl. Preferably copolymers of (C ₉ -C ₁₈ )alkyl (meth)acrylate and (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl (meth)acrylate.

More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) of formula(III)And(IV): Formulas(III)And(IV)in which
-R, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or group (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as methyl,
-R'identical or different representing a group (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as methyl or ethyl, and
-R''representing a group (C₉-VS₂₂) preferably alkyl (VS₁₀-VS₂₀)alkyl and in particular (C_2n)alkyl with integer n = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10. Preferably R'' represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl, more preferably stearyl.

Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers derived from monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl and behenyl (meth)acrylates, more particularly stearyl (meth)acrylate ( even more preferably stearyl methacrylate), and C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate and/or ethyl (meth)acrylate.

More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers derived from monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl and hexadecyl (meth)acrylates, and C ₁ -C alkyl (meth)acrylate ₄ preferably methyl (meth) acrylate or ethyl (meth) acrylate.

More preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers e) derived from monomers chosen from e1) isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl and hexadecyl (meth)acrylates, more particularly stearyl (meth)acrylate (Even more preferably stearyl methacrylate), and e2) C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably methyl (meth)acrylate, more particularly methyl acrylate.

Preferably, the copolymer e) respects the weight ratio e1)/e2 which is greater than 4.5. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.

In particular, the stabilizing agent ii) is chosen from:
- homopolymer d) of (meth)acrylate, isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, preferably stearyl, and
- random copolymers of e1) (meth)acrylate, isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, preferably stearyl and e2) of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate preferably present in a weight ratio e1 ) / e2) greater than 4.5. Advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.

According to one embodiment, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization e1) of a monomer of formula (IV) as defined previously and e2) two different monomers of formula (III) as defined previously.

Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of e1) 1 monomer of formula (IV) as defined above, in particular chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, preferably stearyl and e2) of 2 different monomers of formula (III) as defined above, in particular different C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates, preferably methyl and ethyl acrylate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the weight ratio of monomer of formula (IV) in particular (meth) acrylates of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl, preferably stearyl e1) / monomer of formula (III) in particular (meth ) C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate, preferably methyl and/or ethyl (meth)acrylate e2), ie e1)/e2) is greater than 4. Advantageously, said weight ratio e1)/e2) ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12.

According to another embodiment, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization e2) of a monomer of formula (III) as defined previously and e1) two different monomers of formula (IV ) as previously defined.

In particular, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from e) ethylenic copolymers of e1) (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate, (C ₈ -C ₂₂ )alkyl, and of e2) (C ₁ -C ₄ (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl )(alkyl)acrylate, as defined previously according to a weight ratio of (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl / (C ₁ -C ₄ (alkyl)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl e1) / e2) greater than 4.

Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of e1) 2 different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, preferably stearyl and e2) 1 monomer of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate preferably methyl acrylate, ethyl acrylate, in particular the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl preferably stearyl (meth)acrylates / C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate e1)/e2) greater than 4.5, more particularly greater than or equal to 5. Advantageously, said weight ratio e1)/e2 ranges from 4.5 to 10, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 8, more particularly from 5.5 to 7.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the oily dispersion (A) comprises from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular 4% to 25%, in particular from 5.5% to 20% by weight of monomers (C ₁ -C ₆ (alkyl) acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl included in d) or e) in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in the said dispersion.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of 2 different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, and from 1 monomer of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate, preferably of methyl and ethyl acrylate, in particular the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates / (meth)acrylate of C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl in dispersion (A) is less than 1. Particularly, said weight ratio ranges from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 0.08 to 0.2 in the scatter (A).

For these random copolymers, the defined weight ratio makes it possible to obtain a stable polymer dispersion, in particular after storage for 7 days at room temperature.

In particular, the weight ratio of ii) stabilizing agent(s) and i) of particle(s) of polymer(s) is less than 1, relative to the total weight of polymers.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are present in a content ranging from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 3% to 30% by weight, preferably from 4% to 25 % by weight in particular from 5.5% to 20% by weight of (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl monomers included in d) or e) in the liquid fatty substance(s) hydrocarbons iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion.

The stabilizing agent(s) ii) as defined above preferably comprise 80% to 100% by weight of monomer soluble in liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii), in particular from 85% to 95% by weight of soluble monomer, alone or in a mixture. The stabilizing (co)polymer(s) ii) particularly comprises between 0 and 20% by weight, in particular between 5% and 15% by weight of monomer insoluble in hydrocarbon liquid fatty substances iii), alone or in combination.

Preferably, the stabilizing agent(s) ii) and the particle(s) i) have a number-average molecular weight (Mn) of between 1,000 and 1,000,000 g/mol, in particular between 5,000 and 500,000 g/mol and even better between 10,000 and 300,000 g/mol.

The dispersion (A) according to the invention is ultimately formed of polymer particles, of fairly large diameter, i.e. preferably greater than 100 nm, and leads to deposits which adhere well to keratin materials, which are film-forming, shiny and resistant to fatty substances. at room temperature (25°C), particularly interesting for make-up applications.

iii) The liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s)

The dispersion of polymer particles (A) according to the invention also comprises iii) one or more hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substances in which said particles are dispersed.

The liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii) are chosen in particular from hydrocarbons and C ₆ -C ₁₆ or more than 16 carbon atoms up to 60 carbon atoms, preferably between C ₆ and C ₁₆ , and in particular alkanes , oils of animal origin, oils of vegetable origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones .

It is recalled that within the meaning of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids have more particularly one or more hydrocarbon group(s), linear(s) or branched(s), saturated or unsaturated (s), comprising 6 to 60 carbon atoms, optionally substituted, in particular by one or more OH hydroxyl group(s) (in particular by 1 to 4 hydroxyl group(s). If they are unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three unsaturation(s), preferably 1 to 3 carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or not.

With respect to C alkanes₆-VS₁₆, the latter are linear or branched, optionally cyclic, preferably the fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are chosen from alkanes, linear or branched, C₈-VS₁₄, more preferably in C₉-VS₁₃Again more preferably in C₉-VS₁₂. By way of example, mention may be made of hexane, undecane, dodecane, tridecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane or isododecane. The linear or branched hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms can be chosen from paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®.

Among the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii) having an overall solubility parameter according to the HANSEN solubility space of less than or equal to 20 (MPa) ^1/2 , mention may be made of oils, which can be chosen from natural or synthetic oils , hydrocarbon, optionally fluorinated, optionally branched, alone or as a mixture.

According to a very advantageous embodiment, the dispersion (A) according to the invention comprises one or more liquid fatty substances which is (are) one or more hydrocarbon oil(s). The hydrocarbon oil(s) may be volatile or non-volatile.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) are hydrocarbon oils, linear or branched, which are volatile, chosen in particular from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture of different, volatile oils preferably comprising isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane

According to another particular embodiment, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) are a mixture of a volatile oil and a non-volatile oil, the mixture of which preferably comprises as volatile oil dodecane or isododecane

In particular, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are a mixture of C ₉ -C ₁₂ alkanes, preferably of natural origin, the chains of which comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably alkanes linear or branched, C ₉ -C ₁₂ . This mixture is in particular known under the name INCI C9-12 ALCANE E511470, CAS 68608-12-8, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthIs. This volatile biodegradable, volatile oil blend obtained from coconut oil (viscosity is 0.9-1.1 cSt (40°C) and a flash point at 65°C)

As volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity less than or equal to 8 centistokes (cSt) (8×10 ^-6 m ² /s), and having, in particular, 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones with a viscosity of 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, l hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

As non-volatile silicone oils, mention may be made of non-volatile, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy and/or phenyl groups, pendent or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenyl siloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenyl ethyl trimethyl-siloxysilicates and pentaphenyl silicone oils.

The hydrocarbon oil can be chosen from:
hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, and in particular:
- C branched alkanes₈-VS₁₄like C isoalkanes₈-VS₁₄of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Permetyls ,
- linear alkanes, for example such as n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97,as well as their mixtures, the undecane-tridecane mixture, the mixtures of n-undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) obtained in examples 1 and 2 of application WO 2008/155059 from the company Cognis, and their mixtures as well than mixtures ofnot-undecane (C11) andnot-tridecane (C13) Cetiol Ultimate® from BASF.
- short chain esters (with 3 to 8 carbon atoms in total) such as ethyl acetate, methyl acetate, propyl acetate, n-butyl acetate
- hydrocarbon oils of plant origin such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol whose fatty acids may have chain lengths varying from C₄to C₂₄, the latter possibly being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular triglycerides of heptanoic acid or octanoic acid, or alternatively wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soy, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bankoulier, passionflower, muscat rose, coconut; shea butter; or caprylic/capric acid triglycerides such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810^®, 812^®and 818^®by Dynamit Nobel,
- synthetic ethers having 10 to 40 carbon atoms;
- linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam ®, squalane, paraffin oils, and mixtures thereof,
- esters such as oils of formula R¹C(O)-O-R² in which R¹represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R² represents a hydrocarbon chain in particular branched containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R¹+R² or ³ 10, such as Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C alcohol benzoates₁₂to C₁₅, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethyl-hexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, 2-hexyl-decyl laurate, 2- octyl-decyl, 2-octyl-dodecyl myristate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, di-isostearyl malate, 2-octyl-dodecyl lactate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, more preferably linear or branched C fatty acid esters₈-VS₁₀and C fatty alcohol₁₂-VS₁₈linear or branched alone or mixed with alkanes resulting from the hydrogenation / complete reduction of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, particularly dodecane or mixtures of cococaprylate / caprate with dodecane, mention may be made of those with the INCI name coconut alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate/caprate marketed under the name VEGELIGHT 1212LC® by Grant Industries.
- fatty alcohols that are liquid at room temperature with a branched and/or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol.

Dispersion (A) in addition to the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance, may comprise a silicone oil. If silicone oil is in the dispersion (A), preferably it is in an amount which does not exceed 10% by weight relative to the weight of the dispersion (A), more particularly in an amount less than 5% and more preferably 2%.

In particular, the dispersion (A) comprises at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance iii) chosen from:
- vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed, macadamia, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, corn, arara, cotton, apricot, avocado, jojoba, olive, coconut or cereal germ;
- linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and in particular isononyl isononanoate;
and more particularly the esters of formula R ^d -C(O)-OR ^e in which R ^d represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R ^e represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palmitates, adipates, myristates and benzoates, especially diisopropyl adipate and isopropyl myristate; more preferably the esters of formula R ^d -C(O)-OR ^e in which R ^d represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R ^e represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 12 to 18 atoms of carbon ;
- hydrocarbons and in particular linear, branched and/or cyclic alkanes, volatile or non-volatile, such as C ₅ -C ₆₀ isoparaffins, possibly volatile such as undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, Parléam ( hydrogenated polyisobutene), isohexadecane, cyclohexane, or 'ISOPARs', and mixtures thereof; or alkanes resulting from the hydrogenation / complete reduction of mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil such as dodecane, the mixture of C ₉ -C ₁₂ alkanes, whose chains comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched, C ₉ -C ₁₂ alkanes, in particular comprising dodecane or paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene;
- ethers having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
- ketones having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
- aliphatic fatty monoalcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon chain not comprising any substitution group, such as oleic alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, octyldodecanol and linoleic alcohol;
- polyols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol; And
- mixtures thereof, such as mixtures of linear or branched C ₈ -C ₁₀ fatty acid esters and C ₁₂ -C ₁₈ fatty alcohol and alkanes resulting from the hydrogenation / complete reduction of mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, in particular dodecane such as mixtures of cococaprylate / caprate and dodecane, we can cite those with the INCI name coconut alkanes (and) Coco-caprylate / caprate marketed under the name of VEGELIGHT 1212LC® by Grant Industries; or mixtures of C ₉ -C ₁₂ alkanes, whose chains comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes, C ₉ -C ₁₂ in particular comprising dodecane, mention may be made of the mixture oil with INCI name C9-12 ALKANE, VEGELIGHT SILK® marketed by BioSynthIs.

Preferably, the dispersion (A) comprises at least one liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance iii) chosen from:
- vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular triglycerides,
- the esters of formula R ^d -C(O)-OR ^e in which R ^d represents the residue of a higher fatty acid containing 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R ^e represents a hydrocarbon chain containing 3 to 20 carbon atoms , more preferably the esters of formula R ^d -C(O)-OR ^e in which R ^d represents the residue of a higher fatty acid comprising from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R ^e represents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
- linear or branched C ₈ -C ₆₀ alkanes, volatile or non-volatile such as isododecane and alkanes resulting from the hydrogenation / complete reduction of mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera oil (Coconut ) in particular dodecane;
- cyclic, non-aromatic, C ₅ -C ₁₂ alkanes; volatile or non-volatile;
- ethers having 7 to 30 carbon atoms;
- ketones having 8 to 30 carbon atoms;
- aliphatic fatty monoalcohols having 12 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon chain not comprising any substitution group, and
- their mixtures.

Advantageously, the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) of the invention are apolar, i.e. formed solely of carbon and hydrogen atoms.

The hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance(s) are preferably chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 14 carbon atoms, in particular volatile, more particularly the apolar oils, described previously.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are chosen from alkanes such as dodecane, isododecane, fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, esters such as isononyl isononanoate, coconut caprylate/caprate and mixtures thereof, more preferably alkanes.

More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are chosen from C alkanes₆-VS₁₆, linear or branched, preferably in C₈-VS₁₄, more preferably in C₉-VS₁₃Again more preferably in C₉-VS_12,and even more preferably the alkanes are volatile. More particularly, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are volatile and chosen from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture comprising in particular dodecane, isododecane or a mixture of undecane and tridecane.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) of the invention are isododecane.

According to another advantageous embodiment of the invention, the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) is (are) a mixture of non-volatile oil(s) and volatile oil(s) preferably the mixture comprises isododecane as volatile oil undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, more preferably isododecane. As a volatile and non-volatile oil mixture, mention may be made of the mixture of isododecane and isononyl isononanoate.

More preferably when the fatty substance(s) are a mixture of volatile and non-volatile oil, the quantity of volatile oil is greater than the quantity of non-volatile oil

In particular, in the mixture, the non-volatile oil is a phenyl silicone oil preferably chosen from pentaphenyl silicone oils.

Dispersion preparation method (A)

Without this being limiting, in general, the dispersion according to the invention can be prepared in the following way:
- The polymerization is carried out in " dispersion " in a non-aqueous medium, that is to say by precipitation of the polymer during formation, with protection of the particles formed with one or more stabilizing agents ii), preferably a single type of stabilizing agent ii) chosen from d) and e) as defined above.
- In a first step, the stabilizing polymer (or stabilizing agent ii)) is prepared by mixing the monomer or monomers constituting the stabilizing polymer d) or e), with v) a radical initiator, in a solvent called synthetic solvent, and by polymerizing these monomers; Then
- In a second step, the monomers constituting the polymer of the particles i) are added to the stabilizing polymer formed in the previous step and the polymerization of these added monomers is carried out in the presence of the radical initiator.

When the non-aqueous medium is a non-volatile hydrocarbon liquid fatty substance iii), the polymerization can be carried out in an apolar organic solvent (synthetic solvent) then add the non-volatile hydrocarbon liquid fatty substance (which must be miscible with said synthetic solvent ) and selectively distilling the synthesis solvent.

The plasticizer(s) iv) and optionally one or more cosmetic active agent(s) chosen from f) dyes and/or pigments; g) active ingredients for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin and h) UV filters as well as j) mixtures thereof, can be added during the ^1st step.

According to a first variant, the plasticizer(s) iv) is (are) added during the ^2nd step. In which case the plasticiser(s) iv) is/are an integral part of the particles i) and of the stabilizers ii), in the oil iii).

By “forming an integral part” is meant that the plasticizer(s) has(have) reacted chemically with the particle(s) i) and/or with the stabilizer(s) ii), in particular with i) during the polymerization.

According to a second preferred variant, the plasticizer(s) iv) is (are) added after the ^2nd step during a ^3rd step.

According to a third preferred variant, the said cosmetic active ingredient(s) is (are) added during the ^2nd step with the said plasticizer(s) iv) or after the ^2nd step, or even after the 3 ^rd step. It follows that in the second and third variants the plasticizer(s) iv) does not form an integral part of the particle(s) i) and of the stabilizer(s) ii).

• Une ou plusieurs particules i) (préférentiellement constituant le cœur polymérique éthylénique issu d’homopolymères a) ou de copolymères b) ou c), tels que définis précédemment) associée(s) à ii) un ou plusieurs agent(s) stabilisant(s) (préférentiellement ii) se trouvant en surface polymérique desdits cœurs i), issu d’homopolymère d) et les copolymères e) tels que définis précédemment) ;
• Un ou plusieurs corps gras liquides iii) ;
• Un ou plusieurs plastifiants iv) ; et
• éventuellement un ou plusieurs actif(s) cosmétique(s) choisi(s) parmi f) les colorants, g) les pigments ; h) les actifs de soin des matières kératiniques notamment de la peau et j) les filtres UV (A) et/ou (B) ainsi que m) leurs mélanges ;
• étant entendu que le ou les plastifiant(s) iv) ne fait(font)pas partie intégrante de la ou des particule(s) i) et du ou des stabilisant(s) ii).

More particularly, the dispersion (A) then comprises:

• One or more particles i) (preferably constituting the ethylenic polymer core derived from homopolymers a) or from copolymers b) or c), as defined previously) associated with ii) one or more stabilizing agent(s) ) (preferably ii) located on the polymeric surface of said cores i), derived from homopolymer d) and copolymers e) as defined previously);
• One or more liquid fatty substances iii);
• One or more plasticizers iv); And
• optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) chosen from f) dyes, g) pigments; h) active agents for caring for keratin materials, in particular the skin, and j) UV filters (A) and/or (B) as well as m) mixtures thereof;
• it being understood that the plasticizer(s) iv) does not form an integral part of the particle(s) i) and of the stabilizer(s) ii).

A synthesis solvent is preferably chosen such that the monomers of the polymeric stabilizing agent(s) ii), and the radical initiator v), are soluble therein, and that the polymer particles i) obtained are insoluble therein so that they precipitate during their formation. Preferably, the synthetic solvent also solubilizes the plasticizer(s) iv) of the invention.

In particular, the synthetic solvent which is apolar organic is chosen, preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances iii) in particular alkanes such as heptane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, or tridecane preferably isododecane.

When the non-aqueous medium is a hydrocarbon liquid fatty substance iii) volatile, the polymerization can be carried out directly in said oil which therefore also acts as a synthesis solvent. The monomers must also be soluble therein, as well as the radical initiator, and the polymer of the particles i) obtained must be insoluble therein.

The monomers are preferably present in the synthesis solvent, before polymerization, in a proportion of 15% to 45% by weight. All of the monomers can be present in the solvent before the start of the reaction, or part of the monomers can be added as the polymerization reaction progresses.

The polymerization is preferentially carried out in the presence v) of one or more radical initiators which can be any initiator known to those skilled in the art for radical polymerization such as peroxidic or azo initiators, oxidation-reducing (redox) couples, and photochemical initiators.

We can cite in particular those of the type:
- peroxide in particular chosen from tert-Butyl peroxy-2-ethylhexanoate: Trigonox 21S; 2,5-dimethyl-2,5-di(2-ethylhexanoylperoxy)hexane: Trigonox 141; tert-butyl peroxypivalate: Trigonox 25C75 from AkzoNobel; Or
- azo in particular chosen from AIBN: azobisisobutyronitrile; V50: 2,2'-azo-bis(2-amidinopropane) dihydrochloride.

The polymerization is preferably carried out at a temperature ranging from 70° C. to 110° C. and at atmospheric pressure.

The polymer particles i) are stabilized at the surface, when they form during the polymerization, thanks to the stabilizer ii).

The stabilization can be carried out by any known means, and in particular by direct addition of the stabilizer ii), during the polymerization.

The stabilizer ii) is preferably also present in the mixture before polymerization of the monomers of the polymer of the particles i). However, it is also possible to add it continuously, in particular when the monomers of the particles i) are also continuously added.

It is possible to use from 2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 4% to 30% by weight of the stabilizing agent(s) relative to the total weight of monomers used (stabilizing agents ii) + polymer particles i)), of preferably from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of dispersion (A) and preferably from 4.5% to 20% by weight.

The dispersion of polymer particles (A) advantageously comprises from 30% to 65% by weight of dry matter, relative to the total weight of said dispersion, and preferably from 40% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of said dispersion.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises a content of dry matter (or active ingredient) of particle polymers i) + dispersant polymers ii) ranging from 10% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition (A ), and preferably ranging from 20% to 60% by weight, in particular 30% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition (A).

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) according to the invention is an anhydrous composition.

According to another embodiment of the present invention, the dispersion (A) is in an inverse emulsion, i.e. of the water-in-oil (W/O) or “water-in-oil (W/O)” type. In this case the composition comprises one or more surfactants, preferably nonionic. The inverse emulsions of (A) are preferably chosen when the dispersions (A) are intended for makeup and in particular for makeup of the eyelashes and/or the eyebrows.

In a particular method of preparation, the random stabilizing polymer ii) is prepared in a first step. This stabilizing polymer is soluble in an apolar organic solvent of the alkane type such as isododecane.

Then, in a second step, the particles of the polymer i) are synthesized in the presence of the stabilizing polymer ii).

Preferably, a solution of stabilizing polymer ii) is prepared in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) for the final dispersion, and the polymerization of the monomers which form the core of the particle is carried out, in the presence of this stabilizer ii) .

The stabilizing polymer ii) can be prepared by radical polymerization optionally in the presence of polymerization initiator v) as defined previously.

In a second step, it is possible to polymerize the monomers which form the core of the particle i), in the presence of said stabilizing polymer ii). This second step can be a conventional radical polymerization.

The dispersions are produced in the presence of one or more liquid hydrocarbon fatty substances iii) preferably in an apolar organic solvent, in particular of the alkane type such as in isododecane, according to an industrially realistic process.

The dispersions according to the invention are therefore ultimately formed of polymeric particles, of fairly large diameter (preferably greater than 100 nm), and will lead to film-forming deposits, shiny and resistant to fatty substances at the observation temperature (25 °C).

In addition, said dispersion being in an oily medium, it becomes easy to formulate it in cosmetic compositions based on an oily medium commonly used in cosmetics, in particular anhydrous media or in the fatty phases of emulsions. Mention may be made, as emulsions, of “inverse emulsion” emulsions of the water-in-oil (W/O) type or “direct” emulsions of the oil-in-water (O/W) type.

The polymer according to the invention finds a very particular application in the cosmetics field, in particular in the field of make-up and in particular in lipsticks, glosses (lip gloss) and eye shadows and mascaras.

iv) plasticizer(s)

By “ plasticizer ” or “ plasticizing agent ” is meant an organic chemical compound, which is in the solid state or in the liquid state, at room temperature (20°C) and at atmospheric pressure, and which is generally added to a composition comprising different types of polymerizable ingredients (monomers), to make the polymers softer, more flexible, and/or improve its mechanical strength. Plasticizers are known to those skilled in the art, mention may be made, for example, of “Plasticizers”, Encyclopedia of polymer Science and Technology , Helmut Reinecke, Rodrigo Navarro, Mónica Pérez, https://doi.org/10.1002/0471440264.pst245. pub215 September 2011.

The plasticizers within the meaning of the invention have a molecular weight of between 150 and 1000 g/mol, particularly between 200 and 700 g/mol, preferably between 205 and 500 g/mol, even more preferably between 210 and 400 g/mol. The plasticizer(s) are also organic compounds consisting of carbon atoms, hydrogen, and one or more heteroatoms chosen from oxygen, sulfur and silicon, in particular chosen from the atom oxygen, preferably at least 2 heteroatoms even more preferably between 2 and 10 heteroatoms, and possibly having one or more aryl groups. In particular, the plasticizers according to the invention comprise one or more ester functions, in particular from 1 to 5 ester functions such as citrates, phthalates, adipates, benzoates, or even esters R ^a -C(O) -OR ^b or R ^a -OC(O)-R ^b in which R ^a denotes a branched (C ₁ -C ₆ )alkyl group such as a terbutyl and R ^b denotes a preferably saturated branched (C ₈ -C ₂₀ )alkyl group such as a isodecyl or an isostearyl group.

Preferably, the plasticizer(s) of the invention are chosen from those of the families of phthalates, esters, citrates, benzoates, linear or branched, preferably branched, C ₈ -C ₂₀ alkyl neopentanoates.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from the compounds (V) and (V') below:

R ^h -OC(O)-L-[-C(O)-OR ⁱ ] _n R ^h -C(O)-OL-[-OC(O)-R ⁱ ] _n (V) (V') Formulas(V)And(V')in which :
-R ^h , AndR ^I , same or different represent a group (C₁-VS₂₀)alkyl, aryl such as phenyl, aryl(C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such asnot-butyl;
- notis 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably 0, 1, or 2, more preferably 1 or 2; And
- Iis a) C-alkyl₁-VS₁₀, mono, di, tri or tetravalent, preferably (C₂-VS₈) trivalent alkyl, said mono, di, tri or tetravalent alkyl, possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom such as O, N, S, preferably O, b) cycloalkyl mono, di , or trivalent, or c) mono, di, tri or tetravalent aryl, preferably di phenyl, or trivalent, preferably L represents a group a) or c).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the compounds of formula (V) or (V') are those in which:
- R ^h , and R ⁱ , which are identical or different, represent a group (C ₁ -C ₁₈ )alkyl, aryl (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl such as benzyl, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl such as n - butyl;
- n is 0, 1 or 2, preferably 2; And
- L represents a group a) C ₂ -C ₈ alkyl, mono, di, or trivalent, preferably (C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, said alkyl possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, preferably substituted by a hydroxy group.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) iv) are chosen from those of formula (V) .

According to another particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) iv) are chosen from those of formula (V′) .

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from phthalates, preferably chosen from: di n -hexyl phthalate (DnHP), diisoheptyl phthalate (DIHP), diheptyl phthalate (DnHP), di(2 -ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), diheptylnonyl phthalate (DnHNP), din-octyldecylphthalate (DNODP), diheptylnonylundecylphthalate (DnHNUP), diisononyl phthalate (DINP), dinonyl phthalate (DNP), di n -nonyl phthalate (DnNP) diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP ), di n -nonyldecylundecyl phthalate (DnNDUP), dinonylundecyl phthalate (DnNUP), diundecyl phthalate (DUP), diisoundecyldodecylphthalate (UDP), ditridecyl phthalate (DTDP), di(2-ethylhexyl)teraphthalate (DOTP), and butylbenzyl phthalate (BBP) ).

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from adipic acid diesters and in particular from: diheptylnonyl adipate (DnHNA), di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (DEHA), diisopropyl adipate (DIPA) diisononyl adipate (DINA), diisodecyl adipate (DIDA), benzene 1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid triesters such as triheptylnonyl trimellitate (TnHNTM), tri(2-ethylhexyl)trimellitate (TOTM), triisononyl trimellitate (TINTM), sebacic acid diesters such as di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate (DOS), nonanedioic acid diesters such as di(2-ethylhexyl) azelate (DOZ), esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from citrates, in particular chosen from: tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tributyl 2 acetyl-citrate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) are chosen from benzoates in particular chosen from: 1,2 propylene glycol dibenzoate (PGDB), diethylene glycol dibenzoate (DEGDB), dipropylene glycol dibenzoate (DPGDB), triethylene glycol dibenzoate (TEGDB) isodecyl benzoate, isononyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl benzoate.

Even more preferably, the plasticizer(s) iv) of the invention are chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tributyl citrate, diisopropyl adipate, propylene glycol dibenzoate.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the plasticizer(s) is present in an amount of between 0.1 and 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight. of the polymer(s) a) to e) of the particles.

v) the cosmetic active ingredient(s)

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersion of the invention (A) comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) chosen from f) dyes, g) pigments; h) active agents for caring for keratin materials and j) UV screening agents (A) and/or (B) as well as k) mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) of the invention is (are) chosen from g) pigments.

According to a particular embodiment of the present invention, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) of the invention is (are) chosen from h) active ingredients for the care of keratin materials, preferably active ingredients for the care of the skin.

According to yet another particular embodiment of the present patent application, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) of the invention is (are) chosen from j) UV(A) and/or UV( B) and their mixture.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) comprises v) one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from g) pigments.

The pigment(s) represent more particularly from 0.001 to 10% by weight of the total weight of the dispersion (A), and preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight.

The pigments are solid, white or colored particles, naturally insoluble in the liquid hydrophilic and lipophilic phases usually used in cosmetics or rendered insoluble by formulation in the form of a lacquer, where appropriate. More particularly, the pigments are little or not soluble in aqueous-alcoholic media.

The pigments which can be used are in particular chosen from the organic and/or inorganic pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the encyclopedia of chemical technology by Kirk-Othmer and in the encyclopedia of industrial chemistry by Ullmann. Mention may in particular be made, as pigments, of organic and inorganic pigments such as those defined and described in Ullmann's Encyclopedia of Industrial Chemistry "Pigment organics", 2005 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim 10.1002/14356007.a20 371 and ibid, "Pigments, Inorganic, 1. General” 2009 Wiley-VCH Verlag GmbH & Co. KGaA, Weinheim10.1002/14356007.a20_243.pub3

These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

The pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as nacres or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

The pigment can be an inorganic pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter inorganic pigment. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.

The pigment may be an organic pigment.

By organic pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, compounds of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, The yellow pigments codified in the color index under the references C 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21100, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the color index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, The orange pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525 pigments obtained by oxidizing polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives such as they are described in the FR patent 2,679,771.

By way of example, mention may also be made of organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:
- YELLOW COSMENYL IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);
- COSMENYL G YELLOW: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);
- ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);
- COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);
- CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);
- VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);
- COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);
- GREEN COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);
- COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

The pigments in accordance with the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lacquer, we mean the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the dyes, we can mention carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. By special effect pigments, we mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is not uniform and changes according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , viewing angles, etc.). They are therefore opposed to colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or classic transparent shade.

There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.

As examples of special effect pigments, mention may be made of pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium and iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and an organic pigment as defined previously as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As pearlescent pigments, mention may be made of Cellini pearls marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO2-lacquer), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO2), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe2O3) Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica- TiO2-Fe2O3).

Mention may also be made of the gold-colored nacres marketed by the company BASF under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) ; the mother-of-pearl bronzes marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a copper sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); nacres with a red sheen in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with a yellow sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of a red tint with a gold sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with sheen silver in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish-orange-golden-green nacres in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

Still by way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are in particular sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). One can also consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

The special effect pigments can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface finish, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is i.e. brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by seeming to shine.

The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

These particles can have various shapes, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular of at least one metal or metallic material . The substrate can be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and/or inorganic.

More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.

It is also possible to use particles comprising a metal substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO2 marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether fluorescent in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the Quantum Dots Corporation.

The variety of pigments which can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.

The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

The pigments can be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.

The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants additionally have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C ₈ to C ₂₀ fatty acid and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic acid stearate) are used. ) with a molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21,000 by the company Avecia, the polygyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or the acid polyhydroxystearic such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

As other dispersant which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17000 sold by the company Avecia, mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the composition can be surface-treated with an organic agent.

Thus the pigments previously surface-treated useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents can for example be chosen from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or have undergone several surface treatments.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in commerce.

Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.

The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or the fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Preferably, an organic agent bound to the pigments covalently will be used.

The surface treatment agent can represent from 0.1% to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment.

Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:
- a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW - a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Dimethicone/Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
- a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW;
- an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;
- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an acrylate copolymer/dimethicone and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane/Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Acrylate/Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;
- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate/Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF+ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in the coloring composition.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in an amount (dispersant: pigment) of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.

The dispersing agent(s) can therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes previously described. Suitable dispersing agents include:
- amino-silicones, ie silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,
- silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,
- polydimethylsiloxane silicones (PDMS) with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.

According to one particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type, different from the alkoxysilanes previously described and are cationic.

Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from inorganic, mixed inorganic-organic or organic pigments.

In a variant of the invention, the pigment(s) according to the invention are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment or pigments according to the invention are mineral pigments.

The composition may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

By “direct dye”, we mean natural and/or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

They can be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.

Examples of suitable direct dyes which may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.

The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the cationic hydrazono dyes of formulas (VI) and (VII), the cationic azo dyes (VIII) and (IX) below: (VI) (VII) (VIII) (IX)
formulas (VI) to (IX) in which:
- Het ⁺ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferentially with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferentially by at least one (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group such as methyl;
- Ar ⁺ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;
- Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl optionally substituted, ii) (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino, v) N-(C ₁ -C ₈ ) optionally substituted alkyl-N-aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino or alternatively Ar represents a julolidine group;
- Ar' ' represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl )amino, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy or phenyl;
- Ra and Rb , identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;
or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het ⁺ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which bear them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;
- Q- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulphate.

Particular mention may be made of direct dyes with cationic charge, endocyclic azo and hydrazono of formula (VI) to (IX) as defined previously. More particularly, the cationic direct dyes with an endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954. Preferably the following direct dyes: (X) (XI)
formulas (X) and (XI) in which:
- R ¹ represents a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl;
- R ² and R ³ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl; And
- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl optionally substituted, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy optionally substituted, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl) amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,
- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,
- Q- is an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulphate or mesytyl.

In particular, the dyes of formula (X) and (IX) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q′ an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulfate or mesyl.

Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna.

According to one embodiment of the invention, the dyes are fat-soluble. They are for example chosen from Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5, quinoline yellow, annatto. Water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice, methylene blue.

Preferably, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) v) are chosen from the following pigments: carbon black, iron oxides, in particular black iron and micas coated with iron oxide, red iron oxides (iron(III) oxide, also called ferric oxide), triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7, alkali metal salts of lithol red, such as the calcium salt of lithol B.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of pigments varies from 0.5% up to 40%, and preferably from 1% to 20% relative to the weight of the dispersion (A) comprising them.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersion (A) comprises iv) one or more cosmetic active agents chosen from oxidation dyes.

Among the oxidation dyes we can mention:
- oxidation dyes which are generally chosen from one or more oxidation bases, optionally combined with one or more coupling agents.
By way of example, the oxidation bases are chosen from para-phenylenediamines, bis(phenyl)alkylenediamines, para-aminophenols, ortho-aminophenols and heterocyclic bases and the corresponding addition salts optionally combined with coupling agents, it is in particular chosen from meta-phenylenediamines, meta-aminophenols, meta-diphenols, naphthalene-based coupling agents and heterocyclic coupling agents as well as the corresponding addition salts.
- direct dyes, in particular azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures. Direct dyes can be anionic, cationic or neutral.
- natural dyes chosen in particular from hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and orcein as well as extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes.

The hair dye(s), whether direct dyes or oxidation dyes, represent more particularly from 0.001% to 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition of the dispersion (A), and preferably of 0.005% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A).

Preferably, the pigment(s) of the invention are chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, such as BLUE 1 LAKE, the azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7 alkali metal salt of lithol red such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, more preferably the pigment(s) used are chosen from red iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7 .

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the quantity of pigments varies from 0.5% up to 40%, and preferably from 1 to 20% relative to the weight of the composition and dispersion (A) comprising them.

Process for treating keratin materials from the dispersion (A):

A subject of the invention is also a process for treating keratin materials by applying the dispersion (A) to said materials.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratin materials, in particular human materials, such as the skin, in particular of the face such as the lips, comprises the step of applying dispersion (A) to said materials.

More preferably, the process of the invention is a process for making up, in particular, keratin materials, preferably the skin of the face such as the lips. The make-up process of the invention uses dispersion (A) which comprises at least one cosmetic agent v) chosen from f) dyes and g) pigments, more preferably the dispersion comprises g) one or more pigments.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the process for treating keratin materials is a process for making up the skin and/or the eyelashes, eyebrows implementing a step of applying the dispersion (A) comprising at least one dye and/or at least one pigment, preferably at least one pigment.

According to a particular embodiment, the dispersion (A) used in the process for treating keratin materials comprises one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) v).

The dispersion (A) according to the invention may also comprise a cosmetic additive chosen from perfumes, preservatives, fillers, waxes, surfactants, moisturizers, vitamins, ceramides, antioxidants, anti-free radical agents , polymers other than a), b), c), d) and e), thickeners, dyestuffs other than f) dyes and g) pigments.

The invention is further illustrated in the following examples.
EXAMPLES

The dispersions of polymer particles presented in the various examples were prepared in controlled 1 liter reactors. The syntheses are carried out in an apolar aprotic organic solvent such as isododecane.

The synthesis process is identical for all the dispersions obtained. In a first step, the random stabilizing polymer is synthesized by reaction between C ₉ -C ₂₂ alkyl (meth)acrylate and a small amount of one or two (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate different (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl compounds, preferably (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl (meth)acrylate, such as methyl acrylate or methyl acrylate + ethyl acrylate.

The reaction is carried out at 90° C. for 2 h. During the second step, the core of the particle is obtained after introduction of ethylenically unsaturated (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl monomers, preferably (meth)acrylate ( C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl and optionally (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylic acid, preferably (meth)acrylic acid such as acrylic acid; in the reaction medium containing the stabilizing polymer. This second stage is carried out at 90° C. for 5 h.

Several purification steps by distillation of the solvent (isododecane), also called "stripping", can be carried out at the end of the synthesis to remove residual unreacted monomers.

The percentage of active ingredient in the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) iii) such as isododecane is ultimately between 40% and 55%, such as 50%.

The polymerization initiator is Trigonox T21S. The CAS as well as the supplier of this initiator are given in Table 2: Polymerization initiator used in the various examples

[Table 1]:

Examples of implementation of the invention

Syntheses of oily dispersions with a C-alkyl stabilizing agent ₉ -VS ₂₂

An example of synthesis is presented below for obtaining an oily dispersion with a stabilizing agent in C ₉ -C ₂₂ alkyl (meth)acrylate. For this example, stearyl methacrylate was used in combination with methyl acrylate for the stabilizing arm and methyl acrylate was retained for the core of the particle.

Example of synthesis of an oily dispersion Stearyl Methacrylate / Methyl Acrylate Example 10 of FR 3 097 756

The oily dispersions are formed as a whole (polymeric particles i)+polymeric stabilizing agent ii)) at 94.5% Methyl Acrylate and 5.5% Stearyl Methacrylate. The synthesis of these oily dispersions was carried out in a 1 liter controlled reactor. The synthesis is carried out in two steps:
- During a first step, the Stearyl Methacrylate is polymerized in Isododecane in the presence of a small quantity of Methyl Acrylate and a radical initiator (T21S). In the first step, the Stearyl Methacrylate / Methyl Acrylate mass ratio is 85/15.
- During the second step, the rest of the methyl acrylate is cast in the presence of isododecane and radical initiator (T21S).

After stripping, the polymer is at a dry extract of 50% in isododecane.

The ratios used to obtain the stabilizer and the core are summarized in the

Table 2: Specific ratios in stabilizer ii) and core i) for dispersion.

[Table 3]: Quantity of reagents used for the dispersion with example 10 of FR 3 097 756.

Experimental protocol :
Isododecane, Stearyl Methacrylate, Methyl Acrylate and T21S are introduced into the reactor at the bottom of the tank. The medium is heated to 90° C. (Setpoint on the medium), under argon and with stirring. The dry extract during this first step is 22%

After 2 hours of heating, the NMR indicates a consumption of 99% of the stearyl methacrylate (Consumption of the methyl acrylate: 98%).

After 2 h of reaction, isododecane is introduced. Heat to 90°C in the middle.

Once the medium has reached 90° C., the methyl acrylate, isododecane and T21S are introduced over 1 hour by pouring. At the end the medium is milky.

After 7 hours of synthesis, almost total consumption of methyl acrylate and quantitatively of stearyl methacrylate is obtained.

400 mL of isododecane is then stripped (the progress of the reaction is monitored by NMR).

Plasticizers iv)

Once the dispersion of the particles obtained in the isododecane, the plasticizer is added. The quantity of plasticizer added is 10% by mass relative to the total weight of the polymer of the particles (stabilizer+core). Thus, for 20% in active material of particle polymers, we added 2% in mass of plasticizer. The plasticizer was added at room temperature (20°C), with stirring. Once the particle dispersion + plasticizer mixture is homogeneous, the cosmetic active ingredients such as pigments are added, always at room temperature and with stirring.

[Table 4]: Plasticizer 1 Plasticizer 2 ISODECYL NEOPENTANOATE
(CAS Number: 60209-82-7) ISOSTEARYL NEOPENTANOATE
(CAS Number: 58958-60-4) Plasticizer 3 Plasticizer 4 Tributyl citrate
(CAS Number: 77-94-1) DIISOPROPYL ADIPATE
(CAS Number: 6938-94-9) Plasticizer 5 PROPYLENE GLYCOL DIBENZOATE
(CAS Number: 19224-26-1)

Evaluation on keratin material:

The different combinations were evaluated for skin makeup.

A formulation containing a dispersion of particles of the invention was produced. This formulation was applied at a thickness of 50 µm wet on two vitro supports:
Support of the FP40 type: FP40 (Trellborg, N4I01)* is an elastomeric substrate made of butadiene-acrylonitrile copolymer containing an oil of diethylhexyl sebacate, an oil close to the sebum of the skin, as a plasticizer. When a polymer conveyed in isododecane is applied to this substrate, an extraction of the plasticizer is carried out mimicking the contribution / impact of sebum on the coating Bioskin type support: elastomer support simulating a polyurethane elastomer skin reinforced with spandex (particular polyurethane) - manufacturer BEAULAX (Japan).

The deposit was left to dry for 24 h. After 24 hours of drying, evaluations of the deposits are carried out. After a day of drying, thanks to the strength of the hands, the Bioskin or FP40 plate is stretched 10 times.

Then the result can be observed on the formulation film (fragmentation or not).

The following dispersions were made:

[Table 5]: Ingredients Dispersion 1 comparative
FR 3 097 756 2 3 4 5 6 Dispersion with Example 10 20% MA 20% MA 20% MA 20% MA 20% MA 20% MA Plasticizer 1 - 2% - - - - Plasticizer 2 - - 2% - - - Plasticizer 3 - - - 2% - - Plasticizer 4 - - - - 2% - Plasticizer 5 - - - - - 2% pigment paste
DC RED 7 (40% in isododecane) 25% 25% 25% 25% 25% 25% Isododecane QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 QSP 100 MA: Active Ingredient

The in vitro substrate before deposition measures 10 cm in length and 6 cm in width. On this substrate, we make a coating that measures 6 cm in length and 5 cm in width. The substrate+coating assembly is stretched in the same way with the same force for the various tests to arrive at a stretching of 40% in the direction of the length of the substrate+coating (14 cm).

Then the evaluation is carried out visually as follows:
+++ No visible streak
++ Between 1 and 5 visible streaks
+ Between 5 and 10 visible streaks
- More than 10 visible streaks.

Results :

It appears that the addition of plasticizer in the dispersion makes it possible, after application to the keratin materials and evaporation of the solvents, to obtain a film which adheres significantly more to the substrate than the comparative one. In addition, the appearance of the film remains unchanged after stretching, i.e. satin gloss aesthetic red for dispersions 2 to 6.

Claims (21)

Oily dispersion (A), preferably anhydrous, which comprises:
i) one or more particle(s) comprising one or more polymer(s) chosen from:
a) ethylenic homopolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl;
b) ethylenic copolymers of b1) (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate, (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, and of b2) ethylenic monomers comprising one or more carboxy, anhydride, phosphoric acid, sulphonic acid and /or aryl such as benzyl; in particular b2) is a (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylic acid such as (meth)acrylic acid, more particularly the copolymers of (meth)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl and of (meth)acrylic acid )acrylic;
c) ethylenic copolymers of (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl, preferably (meth)acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl; And
ii) one or more polymeric stabilizing agent(s) chosen from:
d) ethylenic (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl homopolymers, preferably (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl ethylenic (meth)acrylate homopolymers; And
e) ethylenic copolymers of e1) (C ₁ -C ₆ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₉ -C ₂₂ )alkyl, and of e2) (C ₁ -C ₄ )(alkyl)acrylate of (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl, preferably the copolymers e) are copolymers of (meth) acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl and of (meth) acrylate (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl;
iii) one or more hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance(s);
iv) one or more plasticizer(s); And
v) optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) chosen from f) dyes, g) pigments; h) active agents for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin, and j) UV filters (A) and/or (B) as well as m) mixtures thereof. Oily dispersion (A), according to the preceding claim, in which the particle or particles i) consists of an ethylenic polymer core derived from homopolymers a) or from copolymers b) or c), as defined in the preceding claim, and ii) one or more polymeric surface stabilizing agent(s) derived from homopolymer d) and the copolymers e) as defined in the preceding claim. Oily dispersion (A), according to claim 1 or 2, in the polymer(s) constituting the particles i) is (are) chosen from ethylenic acrylate homopolymers c) resulting from the polymerization of identical monomers of formula (I) :
H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (I)
Formula (I) in which:
- R representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl, and
- R′ representing a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl or ethyl, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate. Oily dispersion (A), according to claim 1 or 2, in which the polymer(s) constituting the particles i) is (are) chosen from ethylenic acrylate copolymers b) resulting from the polymerization:
- at least two different monomers of formula (I) as defined in the preceding claim, preferably C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl acrylate such as methyl acrylate and ethyl acrylate; And
- optionally a monomer of formula (II) H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-OH with R as defined in the preceding claim, in particular acrylic acid. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the monomers are chosen from C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylates such as methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl, n-propyl (meth)acrylate, isopropyl (meth)acrylate, n-butyl (meth)acrylate, or tert-butyl (meth)acrylate; more preferably chosen from methyl (meth)acrylate, ethyl (meth)acrylate. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily dispersion (A) comprises from 60% to 98% by weight, in particular from 75 to 96% of monomers a) to c) relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the stabilizer(s) ii), is (are) chosen from:
d) ethylenic homopolymers resulting from the polymerization of monomers of formulaH ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R''withRrepresenting a hydrogen atom or group (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as methyl, and R’’ representing a group (C₉-VS₂₂) preferably alkyl (VS₉-VS₁₈)alkyl, preferably R'' represents, isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl; And
e) ethylenic copolymers of monomers of formula(III)And(IV):
H ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R' (III)AndH ₂ C=C(R)-C(O)-O-R'' (IV)
Formulas(III)And(IV)in which
-R, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or group (C₁-VS₄) alkyl such as methyl;
-R'identical or different representing a group (C₁-VS₄) alkyl such as methyl or ethyl; And
-R''representing a group (C₉-VS₂₂) preferably alkyl (VS₁₀-VS₂₀)alkyl and in particular (C_2n) alkyl with integer n = 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, or 10; preferably R'' represents isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, or behenyl, more preferably stearyl. Oily dispersion (A), according to the preceding claim, in which the stabilizing agent(s) ii), is (are) chosen from ethylenic copolymers of monomers of formula(III)And(IV); notably the weight ratio of monomer of formula(IV)in particular isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, preferably stearyl e1) / monomer of formula(III)particular C-alkyl (meth)acrylate₁-VS₄preferably methyl and/or ethyl (meth)acrylate e2) i.e. e1)/e2) is greater than 4; advantageously, said weight ratio e1)/e2) ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the stabilizer(s) ii), is (are) chosen from ethylenic copolymers e) resulting from the polymerization of a monomer of formula (IV) as defined in claim 7 or 8 and two different monomers of formula (III) as defined in claim 7 or 8; preferably the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of 1 monomer chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates, and 2 alkyl (meth)acrylate monomers in C ₁ -C ₄ preferably different from methyl and ethyl acrylate, in particular the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl, behenyl (meth)acrylates / C ₁ -C alkyl (meth)acrylate ₄ greater than 4; advantageously, said weight ratio ranges from 5 to 15, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 5.5 to 12. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the oily dispersion (A) comprises from 2 to 40% by weight, in particular 4 to 25 in particular from 5.5 to 20% by weight of monomers (C ₁ -C ₆ (alkyl) acrylate (C ₉ -C ₂₂ ) alkyl included in d) or e) with the hydrocarbon liquid or liquids iii), relative to the total weight of polymers contained in said dispersion. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the stabilizing agent(s) ii) are chosen from copolymers resulting from the polymerization of 2 different monomers chosen from isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl (meth)acrylates , behenyl, and 1 C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate monomer, preferably methyl and ethyl acrylate, in particular the weight ratio of isodecyl, lauryl, stearyl, hexadecyl (meth)acrylates , behenyl/C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl (meth)acrylate in dispersion (A) is less than 1; particularly, said weight ratio ranges from 0.05 to 0.5, more preferably said weight ratio ranges from 0.08 to 0.2 in the dispersion (A). Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the combination ii) stabilizing agent(s) + i) particle(s) of polymer(s) present in the dispersion (A) comprises 2% to 40% by weight, in particular from 4% to 30% by weight, preferably from 5% to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the dispersion (A) and preferably from 4.5% to 20% in weight. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance(s) iii) is (are) chosen from hydrocarbons, in particular alkanes, oils of animal origin, oils of plant origin, glycerides or fluorinated oils of synthetic origin, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and/or fatty alcohol esters, non-silicone waxes, silicones; in particular the liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance(s) are preferably volatile hydrocarbon oils or are a mixture of different volatile oils, preferably chosen the volatile oil(s) are chosen from alkanes, linear or branched, C₈-VS₁₄, more preferably in C₉-VS₁₃Again more preferably in C₉-VS₁₂more particularly chosen from undecane, dodecane, tridecane and isododecane; or a mixture of different, volatile oils preferably including isododecane in the mixture, or a mixture of undecane and tridecane. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the hydrocarbon-based liquid fatty substance(s) iii) is (are) chosen from:
- vegetable oils formed by esters of fatty acids and polyols, in particular triglycerides, such as sunflower, sesame or rapeseed, macadamia, soybean oil, sweet almond oil, calophyllum, palm, grapeseed, corn, arara, cotton, apricot, avocado, jojoba, olive or cereal germ;
- linear, branched or cyclic esters, having more than 6 carbon atoms, in particular 6 to 30 carbon atoms; and in particular isononyl isononanoate;
and more particularly the esters of formula R^d-C(O)-O-R^ein which R^drepresents the residue of a higher fatty acid having from 7 to 19 carbon atoms and R^erepresents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 3 to 20 carbon atoms, such as palmitates, adipates, myristates and benzoates, in particular diisopropyl adipate and isopropyl myristate; more preferably the esters of formula R^d-C(O)-O-R^ein which R^drepresents the residue of a higher fatty acid having from 8 to 10 carbon atoms and R^erepresents a hydrocarbon chain comprising from 12 to 18 carbon atoms;
- hydrocarbons and in particular linear, branched and/or cyclic, volatile or non-volatile alkanes, such as C isoparaffins₅-VS₆₀, possibly volatile such as isododecane, Parleam (hydrogenated polyisobutene), isohexadecane, cyclohexane, or 'ISOPARs' and their mixture; or alkanes from the hydrogenation / complete reduction of mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil such as dodecane; or the mixture of C-alkanes₉-VS₁₂, whose chains comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes, in C₉-VS₁₂in particular comprising dodecane; or paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, or hydrogenated polyisobutylene;
- ethers having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
- ketones having 6 to 30 carbon atoms;
- aliphatic fatty monoalcohols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, the hydrocarbon chain not comprising any substitution group, such as oleic alcohol, decanol, dodecanol, octadecanol, octyldodecanol and linoleic alcohol;
- polyols having 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as hexylene glycol; And
- their mixtures such as mixtures of linear or branched C fatty acid esters₈-VS₁₀and C fatty alcohol₁₂-VS₁₈and alkanes from the hydrogenation / complete reduction of mixtures of fatty acids from Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) oil, in particular dodecane such as mixtures of cococaprylate / caprate and dodecane; or mixtures of C-alkanes₉-VS₁₂, whose chains comprise from 9 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably linear or branched alkanes, in C₉-VS₁₂in particular comprising dodecane; preferably the hydrocarbon liquid fatty substance(s) iii) is (are) chosen from C alkanes₆-VS₁₆, linear or branched, preferably in C₈-VS₁₄, more preferably in C₉-VS₁₃Again more preferably in C₉-VS_12,and even more preferably the alkanes are volatile and chosen from undecane, dodecane, isododecane, tridecane, and their mixture comprising in particular dodecane, isododecane or a mixture of undecane and tridecane;
or else the liquid fatty substance(s) iii) is (are) a mixture of non-volatile oil(s) and volatile oil(s) in particular comprising isododecane as volatile oil, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, and/or tridecane, more preferentially isododecane; as a volatile and non-volatile oil mixture, mention may be made of the mixture of isododecane and isononyl isononanoate; and more preferably when the fatty substance or substances are a mixture of volatile and non-volatile oil, the quantity of volatile oil is greater than the quantity of non-volatile oil
. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, which preferably comprises a silicone oil which is present in an amount which does not exceed 10% by weight relative to the weight of the dispersion (A), more particularly in a lower amount at 5% and more preferably 2%. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the plasticizer(s) is (are) chosen from those of the families of phthalates, esters, citrates, benzoates, neopentanoates of C-alkyl₈-VS₂₀linear or branched, preferably branched, in particular chosen from compounds(V)And(V')below : R ^h -OC(O)-L-[-C(O)-OR ⁱ ] _n R ^h -C(O)-OL-[-OC(O)-R ⁱ ] _n (V) (V') Formulas(V)And(V')in which :
-R ^h , AndR ^I , same or different represent a group (C₁-VS₂₀)alkyl, aryl such as phenyl, aryl(C₁-VS₄)alkyl such as benzyl, preferably (C₁-VS₄)alkyl such asnot-butyl;
- notis 0, 1, 2 or 3, preferably 0, 1, or 2, more preferably 1 or 2; And
- Iis a) C-alkyl₁-VS₁₀, mono, di, tri or tetravalent, preferably (C₂-VS₈) trivalent alkyl, said mono, di, tri or tetravalent alkyl, possibly being substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom such as O, N, S, preferably O, b) cycloalkyl mono, di , or trivalent, or c) mono, di, tri or tetravalent aryl, preferably di phenyl, or trivalent, preferably L represents a group a) or c); in particular the plasticizer(s) is (are) chosen from:
*phthalates, preferably chosen from: dinot-hexyl phthalate (DnHP), diisoheptyl phthalate, (DIHP), diheptyl phthalate (DnHP), di(2-ethylhexyl) phthalate (DEHP), diheptylnonyl phthalate (DnHNP), din-octyldecylphthalate (DNODP), diheptylnonylundecylphthalate (DnHNUP), diisononyl phthalate (DINP), dinonyl phthalate (DNP), dinot-nonyl phthalate (DnNP) diisodecyl phthalate (DIDP), dinot-nonyldecylundecyl phthalate (DnNDUP), dinonylundecyl phthalate (DnNUP), diundecyl phthalate (DUP), diisoundecyldodecylphthalate (UDP), ditridecyl phthalate (DTDP), di(2-ethylhexyl)teraphthalate (DOTP), and butylbenzyl phthalate (BBP);
* adipic acid diesters and in particular chosen from: diheptylnonyl adipate (DnHNA), di(2-ethylhexyl) adipate (DEHA), diisopropyl adipate (DIPA) diisononyl adipate (DINA), diisodecyl adipate (DIDA), triesters of benzene 1,2,4-tricarboxylic acid such as triheptylnonyl trimellitate (TnHNTM), tri(2-ethylhexyl)trimellitate (TOTM), triisononyl trimellitate (TINTM), sebacic acid diesters such as di(2-ethylhexyl) sebacate (DOS ), nonanedioic acid diesters such as di(2-ethylhexyl) azelate (DOZ), esters such as isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate;
* citrates chosen in particular from: tributyl citrate, triethyl citrate, tributyl 2 acetyl-citrate;
* benzoates chosen in particular from: 1,2 propylene glycol dibenzoate (PGDB), diethylene glycol dibenzoate (DEGDB), dipropylene glycol dibenzoate (DPGDB), triethylene glycol dibenzoate (TEGDB) isodecyl benzoate, isononyl benzoate and 2-ethylhexyl benzoate;
even more preferentially the plasticizer(s) iv) of the invention are chosen from isodecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, tributyl citrate, diisopropyl adipate, propylene glycol dibenzoate. Oily dispersion (A), according to any one of the preceding claims, which comprises one or more cosmetic active agent(s) v), particularly chosen from:
- organic and mineral or inorganic pigments,
- special effect pigments such as fluorescent, thermochromic, photochromic pigments, nacres, coated or uncoated, in the form of powder or pigment paste, lacquers, flakes or mixtures thereof;
- said pigments can be dispersed in the product using a dispersing agent and the pigments can be surface-treated with an organic agent;
in particular, the cosmetic active ingredient(s) v) is (are) chosen from:
- the organic pigments nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, quinoline, anthraquinone, phthalocyanine, of metal complex type, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone;
- white or colored organic pigments which are chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, sorghum red, blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the BLUE 1 LAKE Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 73000, 74100, 74160 pigment references, the yellow pigments coded in the Color Index under the Cl references 11680, 11710, 15985, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21108, 47000 , 47005, the green pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, orange pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 11725, 15510, 45370, 71105, red pigments codified in the Color Index under the references CI 12085 ,12120,12370,12420,12490,14700,15525,15580,15620,15630,15800,15850,15865,15880,17200,26100,45380,45410, 58000, 73360, 73915, 75470, pigments obtained by oxidative polymerization of indole or phenolic derivatives;
- mineral pigments or inorganic pigments chosen iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide;
preferably, the cosmetic active agent(s) v) is (are) chosen from carbon black, iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black, and micas coated with iron oxide, triarylmethane pigments, in particular blue and violet, such as BLUE 1 LAKE, azo pigments, in particular red, such as D&C RED 7 alkali metal salt of lithol red such as the calcium salt of lithol red B, more preferably the pigment(s) used are chosen from red iron oxides and azo pigments, in particular red ones, such as D&C RED 7 . Process for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the hair, or the skin, comprising the application to the said materials of the oily dispersion (A) as defined in any one of the preceding claims. Process for preparing dispersion (A) as defined according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, comprising the following steps:
- in a first step, the stabilizing agent ii) is prepared by mixing the monomer or monomers constituting the stabilizing polymer d) or e), with v) a radical initiator, in a solvent and by polymerizing these monomers;
- in a second step, to the stabilizer formed in the previous step, the monomers constituting the polymer of the particles i) are added and the polymerization of these monomers is carried out in the presence of the radical initiator v);
- the plasticizer(s) iv) and optionally one or more cosmetic active ingredient(s) chosen from f) dyes and/or pigments; g) active ingredients for the care of keratin materials, in particular the skin and h) UV filters as well as j) mixtures thereof, can be added during the 1^timestage ; or
- the plasticizer(s) iv) is (are) added during the 2^thstage ; or
- the plasticizer(s) iv) is (are) added after the 2^thstep during a 3^thstage ; or
- the said cosmetic active ingredient(s) is (are) added during the 2^thstep with the said plasticizer(s) iv) or after the 2^thstage, even after the 3^thstage ;
Being heard that :

• when the non-aqueous medium is a non-volatile iii) liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance, the polymerization can be carried out in an apolar organic solvent (synthetic solvent) then add the non-volatile liquid hydrocarbon fatty substance (which must be miscible with said synthetic solvent ) and selectively distilling the synthesis solvent; And
• the monomer(s) of polymeric stabilizers ii), and the radical initiator v), are soluble in the synthesis solvent the synthesis solvent which is preferably apolar organic and more preferably chosen from liquid fatty substances iii) in particular alkanes such as heptane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, or tridecane, preferably isododecane.

Use of an oily dispersion (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 17 for the treatment of keratin materials, in particular human materials such as the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, or the skin, preferably for coloring the fibers keratin fibers and/or the shaping of keratin fibers such as the hair, or for making up the skin. A multi-compartment device comprising ingredients i) to iv) and optionally v), wherein ingredients i) to iii) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 15 are in the same compartment, iv) as defined in claim 16 is in another compartment, and possibly v) is in another compartment, or in the compartment with i) to iii), or in the compartment with iv).