FR3130617A1 - Hair coloring process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a silicone acrylic copolymer, two compounds having specific Hansen solubility parameters and a coloring agent - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a hair coloring process comprising the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising: - one or more (poly)carbodiimide compounds; - one or more silicone acrylic copolymers; - at least two compounds having the following Hansen d solubility parameters: dh ranging from 5 to 40 MPa1/2 and dp ranging from 4 to 14 MPa1/2; and - one or more coloring agent(s) selected from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof;

Description

Hair coloring process comprising the application of a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a silicone acrylic copolymer, two compounds having specific Hansen solubility parameters and a coloring agent

The present invention relates to a process for coloring the hair comprising the application to the hair of a composition C comprising a (poly)carbodiimide compound, a silicone acrylic copolymer, at least two compounds having specific Hansen d solubility parameters and a coloring agent.

In the field of coloring hair keratin fibers, in particular human hair, it is already known to color hair keratin fibers by different techniques using direct dyes or pigments for non-permanent colorings or dye precursors for permanent colorings .

There are basically three types of hair coloring process:

a) so-called permanent coloring which has the function of bringing a significant modification of the natural color and which uses oxidation dyes which penetrate the hair fiber and form the dye by a process of oxidative condensation;

b) non-permanent, semi-permanent or direct coloring, which does not involve the process of oxidative condensation and resists 4 or 5 shampoos; consists in dyeing the keratin fibers with dye compositions containing direct dyes;

c) temporary coloring which gives rise to a modification of the natural color of the hair which holds from one shampoo to another and which is used to embellish or correct a shade already obtained. It can also be likened to a “make-up” process.

Another coloring method is to use pigments. Indeed, the use of pigment on the surface of keratin fibers generally makes it possible to obtain visible colorings on dark hair since the pigment on the surface masks the natural color of the fiber. However, the colorings obtained by this method of coloring have the disadvantage of having a low resistance to shampoos as well as to external agents such as sebum, perspiration, brushing and/or rubbing.

There therefore remains a need to have a hair coloring process, which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various attacks that the hair may suffer such as than brushing and/or rubbing without degrading the cosmetic properties of the hair.

Thus, the object of the present invention is to develop a hair coloring process which has the advantage of obtaining a homogeneous and smooth colored coating on the hair, while forming a coating that is resistant to shampoos and to the various attacks that the hair can be subjected to such brushing and/or rubbing without degradation of the cosmetic properties of the hair.

The subject of the present invention is therefore a process for coloring the hair comprising the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:

- one or more (poly)carbodiimide compounds;

- one or more silicone acrylic copolymers;

- at least two compounds having the following Hansen's d solubility parameters:

d _h ranging from 5 to 40 MPa ^1/2 and

d _p ranging from 4 to 14 MPa ^1/2 ; And

- at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Thanks to the hair coloring process according to the invention, colored sheathings are obtained on the hair making it possible to obtain a visible coloring on all types of hair in a shampoo-retentive manner while preserving the physical qualities of the hair. Such a sheathing can be resistant to the external aggressions that the hair can undergo, such as brushing and perspiration. In particular, it makes it possible to obtain a homogeneous deposit. The compositions used in the context of the hair coloring process according to the invention also make it possible to obtain good solubility of said silicone acrylic copolymer.

By “ shampoo-resisting coloration ” is meant within the meaning of the present invention that the coloration obtained persists after one shampoo, preferably after 3 shampoos, more preferably after 5 shampoos.

The expression " at least one " means one or more.

Unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “included between” and “ranging from … to …”.

The invention is not limited to the examples illustrated. The characteristics of the various examples can in particular be combined within variants that are not illustrated.

Within the meaning of the present invention and, unless otherwise indicated,

- an “ alkyl ” radical denotes a saturated linear or branched radical containing, for example, from 1 to 20 carbon atoms;

- an “ aminoalkyl ” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an NH ₂ group;

- a “ hydroxyalkyl ” radical denotes an alkyl radical as defined above, said alkyl radical comprising an OH group;

- an “ alkylene ” radical designates a divalent C ₂ -C ₄ saturated hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, such as methylene, ethylene or propylene;

- a " cycloalkyl " or " alicycloalkyl " radical denotes a mono or bicyclic saturated cyclic hydrocarbon group, preferably monocyclic, comprising from 1 to 3 rings, preferably 2 rings, and comprising from 3 to 24 carbon atoms, in particular comprising 3 to 20 carbon atoms, more particularly from 3 to 13 carbon atoms, even more particularly from 3 to 12 carbon atoms, preferably between 5 and 10 carbon atoms, such as cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl, cyclohexyl, cycloheptyl, or norbornyl , in particular cyclopropyl, cyclopentyl or a cyclohexyl. it being understood that the cycloalkyl radical can be substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably the cycloalkyl radical is then an isobornyl group,

- a “ cycloalkylene ” radical designates a divalent cycloalkyl group with “ cycloalkyl ” as defined above, preferably C ₃ -C ₁₂ ;

- an “ aryl ” radical is an unsaturated and aromatic hydrocarbon cyclic radical, comprising from 6 to 14 carbon atoms, preferably between 6 and 12 carbon atoms, mono/bi/ or tri/cyclic, fused or not, preferably the aryl group comprises 1 ring with 6 carbon atoms such as phenyl, naphthlyl, , anthryl, phenanthryl and biphenyl, it being understood that the aryl radical can be substituted by one or more (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl groups such as methyl, preferably tolyl, xylyl, or methylnaphthyl, preferably the aryl group represents phenyl;

- an " arylene " radical is a divalent aryl radical with " aryl " as defined above preferably arylene represents phenylene;

- a “ heterocyclic ” radical designates a mono or polycyclic, saturated or unsaturated, non-aromatic or aromatic hydrocarbon radical, comprising one or more heteroatoms, preferably of 1 to 5 atoms chosen from O, S or N, comprising from 3 to 20 chains of preferably between 5 and 10 members such as imidazolyl, pyrrolyl and furanyl;

- a “ heterocycloalkylene ” radical is a divalent heterocyclic group with “ heterocyclic ” as defined previously;

- an “ aryloxy ” radical designates an aryl-oxy radical with “ aryl ” as defined previously;

- an “ alkoxy ” radical denotes an alkyl-oxy radical with “ alkyl ” as defined previously;

- an " acyloxy " radical denotes an ester radical RC(O)-O- with R an alkyl group as defined above;

- a “ reactive ” group is a group capable of forming a covalent bond with another group, identical or different, by chemical reaction.

Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present application, it is also meant their optical isomers, their geometric isomers, their tautomers, their salts, alone or as a mixture.

By “hair keratinous fibres”, we mean the hair. In other words, the expressions “hair keratin fibres” and “hair” are equivalent in the remainder of the description.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "hair" means the hair of the head. This term does not correspond to body hair, eyebrows, or eyelashes.

Polycarbodiimide compound

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one (poly)carbodiimide compound.

The composition may comprise at least two distinct (poly)carbodiimide compounds, present as a mixture in the composition.

The term " (poly)carbodiimide compound " means a compound comprising one or more carbodiimide group(s), preferably at least two carbodiimide groups, more preferably at least three carbodiimide groups, in particular the number of carbodiimide groups does not exceed 200, preferably 150, more preferably 100.

The term “ carbodiimide group ” is understood to mean a divalent linear triatomic fraction of general formula - (N=C=N) -.

The (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) according to the invention may optionally comprise in their structure one or more reactive groups different from carbodiimide groups, chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.

The reactive group(s) different from the carbodiimide groups can be pendent or terminal. Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) comprise(s) one or more terminal groups other than carbodiimide groups, preferably one or more terminal groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl groups. , hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane.

According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:

(I),

in which :

- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl groups , carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical é, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or several heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl groups, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth )acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane;

- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; And

- A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:

.

According to another embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I′) below:

(I')

in which :

- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

- Y ₁ and Y ₂ represent, independently, a divalent organic radical chosen from a saturated aliphatic group in C ₁ to C ₃₆ or an aromatic or alkylaromatic group in C ₆ to C ₂₄ , the aliphatic or aromatic group possibly comprising one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as nitrogen atom, oxygen atom, sulfur atom, or combinations thereof;

- Z ₁ and Z ₂ represent, independently, a reactive terminal group or an inert terminal group;

- as an inert terminal group, Z ₁ and Z ₂ may represent, independently, a saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic group, C ₁ to C ₅₀ , or an aromatic group C ₆ to C ₁₈ , said aliphatic groups and aromatics optionally comprising from 1 to 10 heteroatoms chosen from nitrogen, oxygen, sulfur and their combinations, and the aliphatic or aromatic group can be partially or totally fluorinated; in this variant, Z ₁ and Z ₂ comprise a linking group CG linking Z ₁ to Y ₁ and Z ₂ to Y ₂ , the group CG possibly being a single covalent bond, a saturated CC bond, an unsaturated covalent CC bond, a amide group, ester group, carbonate group, thioester group, ether group, urethane group, thiourethane group or urea group;

- as reactive terminal group, Z ₁ and Z ₂ can be chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl groups yl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl , (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide and azacyclopropane;

- Q represents an organopolymer or an organo-oligomer comprising repeating units of saturated, linear or branched or cyclic aliphatic groups, or of aromatic groups or alkylaromatic groups, coupled by repeating carbonate, ester, ether, amide, urethane or urea bonds or combinations thereof;

- A represents a divalent aliphatic, aromatic, alkylaromatic or linear, saturated, branched or cyclic radical having from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, which can optionally comprise one or more non-pendant heteroatoms, such as the nitrogen atom, the atom oxygen, the sulfur atom, or their combinations, in the aliphatic chain or the aromatic chain;

- r denotes an integer equal to 0 or 1;

- m denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;

- m' denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1;

- n designates an integer ranging from 0 to 1000, preferably equal to 0 or 1, with m+ (m’*n ) ≥ 2.

Preferably, Z ₁ and Z ₂ represent, independently, a reactive terminal group, more preferably, Z ₁ and Z ₂ represent, independently, a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl groups , carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulfonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane.

Such (poly)carbodiimide compounds are, for example, marketed by the company Stahl B.V, under the name Permutex XR, or under the name RelcaLink10., under the name Picassian XL and Nisshinbo compounds marketed under the name CARBODILITE with the V-02 series , V-02-L2, SV-02, E-02, V-10, SW-12G, E-03A, E-04DG-T, E-05, V-04, V-02B, V-04PF, V -05.

Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:

(II),

in which

- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;

- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z≥2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3;

- L ₁ independently represents a C ₁ -C ₁₈ divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and their mixtures;

- E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -,

in which R ₃ and R ₄ independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- R ₅ independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- R ₆ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

The term " hydrocarbon radical " means a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched radical having from 1 to 300 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 250 carbon atoms, more preferably from 1 to 200 carbon atoms. Preferably, the hydrocarbon radical is a linear and saturated radical.

The hydrocarbon radical can comprise one or more cyclic groups.

The hydrocarbon radical may be interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), in particular chosen from O, S or N and/or substituted by one or more cation(s), anion(s), or zwitterion(s) or group ( s) cationic(s) such as ammonium, anionic group(s) such as carboxylate, or zwitterionic(s), and/or comprising a metal ion which can be incorporated in the form of a salt.

“ Heteroatom(s )” means an oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atom, as well as halogen atoms such as Cl, F, Br and I. If the heteroatom is included in the chain of the hydrocarbon radical, the heteroatom is preferably chosen from oxygen O, sulfur S or nitrogen N atoms.

Preferably, X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ are chosen independently from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof.

According to a preferred embodiment, R ₁ and R ₂ are chosen independently from the following groups (i) to (iv):

(i) the compound of formula (III) below:

R ₇ -OC(O)-C(R ₈ )(H)- (III),

in which R ₇ represents a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group, and R ₈ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₃ alkyl group, preferably R ₇ is a methyl and R ₈ is a hydrogen or a methyl.

(ii) the compound of formula (IV) below:

R ₉ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₀ )] _p - (IV),

in which R ₉ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, R ₁₀ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3; preferably, R ₉ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₀ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.

(iii) the compound of formula (V) below:

(R ₁₁ ) ₂ N-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₂ )- (V),

wherein R ₁₁ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and R ₁₂ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group; preferably R ₁₁ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₂ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.

(iv) the compound of formula (VI) below:

R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI),

in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30; preferably R ₁₃ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₄ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl.

Preferably, R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferentially a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

According to an alternative embodiment, R ₁ and R ₂ are different and one of the radicals R ₁ or R ₂ represents a compound of formula (IV) as described above and the other radical R ₁ or R ₂ represents a compound of formula (VI) as described above.

Preferably, in formula (IV), R ₉ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₀ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and p is equal to 1.

Preferably, in formula (VI), R ₁₃ is a methyl, ethyl or butyl and R ₁₄ is a hydrogen atom or a methyl and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

According to another alternative embodiment, R ₁ and R ₂ are identical and represent a compound of formula (VI) in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ alkyl group -C ₄ , more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

Preferably, n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.

Preferably, z denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 20, more preferably from 2 to 20.

Preferably, w is equal to 1.

Preferably, w is equal to 1, n+z denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 10.

Preferably, L ₁ is chosen from a C ₁ -C ₁₈ divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical such as methylene, ethylene and propylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, and cyclohexylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group such as imidazolene, pyrrolene and furanylene, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group such as phenylene, and mixtures thereof.

For example, L ₁ can be chosen from a radical derived from tolylene diisocyanate, hexamethylene diisocyanate, xylylene diisocyanate, 2,2,4-trimethylhexamethylene diisocyanate, 1,12-diisocyanate dodecane, norbornane diisocyanate, 2 ,4-bis-(8-isocyanateoctyl)-1,3-dioctylcyclobutane, 4,4'-dicylclohexylmethane diisocyanate, tetramethylxylylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, 1,5-napththylene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenyldimethylmethane diisocyanate and phenylene diisocyanate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, L ₁ is chosen from a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group and mixtures thereof, such as the compounds of formula (VII) below:

.

Preferably, L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane corresponding to the following formula (VIII):

(VIII).

According to another embodiment, when L1 is a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, L ₁ is not the m-tetramethylxylylene radical represented by the following formula (IX):

(IX).

As indicated above, E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);

- R ₅ independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s); And

- R ₆ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

Preferably, R ₃ and R ₄ are chosen independently from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical such as phenylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, R ₃ and R ₄ are chosen independently from a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

Preferably, when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical such as phenylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical such as phenylene, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopropylene and cyclobutylene, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ such as methylene and ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, E represents an -OR ₃ -O- group in which R ₃ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ - C ₁₈ , optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, E represents an -OR ₃ -O- group in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, butylene, propylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) ).

According to a particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a copolymer derived from alpha-methylstyryl-isocyanates of formula (X) below:

(X),

wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having 3 to 24 carbon atoms or an aryl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and,

n designates an integer ranging from 2 to 100.

In this embodiment, the term “alkyl group” is as previously defined.

In this embodiment, the term “cycloalkyl group” is as previously defined.

In this embodiment, n can denote an integer ranging from 2 to 50, preferably from 3 to 30, more preferably from 5 to 10.

According to another particular embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of formula (XI) below:

(XI),

wherein R independently represents an alkyl group having 1 to 24 carbon atoms, a cycloalkyl group having 3 to 24 carbon atoms, or an aryl group having 6 to 24 carbon atoms.

The “alkyl group”, the “cycloalkyl group” and the “aryl group” are as previously defined.

According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (I) or of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ are chosen independently from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof, preferably monoalkyl ethers (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, more preferentially, the compound of formula (VI) as described above in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30 ;

- n and z, when present, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w equal to 1;

- L ₁ , when it is present, is chosen from a divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical in C ₁ -C ₁₈ , a cycloalkylene radical in C ₃ -C ₁₅ , a heterocycloalkylene group in C ₃ -C ₁₂ , or an arylene group in C ₆ -C ₁₄ , and mixtures thereof, preferably a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;

- A, when it is present, is chosen from a C ₁ -C ₁₈ divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C arylene group ₆ -C ₁₄ , and mixtures thereof, preferably a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;

- E, when present, independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ are chosen independently from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ , when present, is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched alkylene radical C ₁ -C ₁₈ , optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; And

- R ₆ , when it is present, is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by a or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ are chosen independently from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;

- L ₁ is chosen from a C ₁ -C ₁₈ divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and mixtures thereof;

- E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ are chosen independently from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; And

- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and their mixtures.

More preferentially, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;

- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;

- E independently represents a group chosen from:

- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;

in which R ₃ and R ₄ are chosen independently from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;

- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; And

- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and their mixtures.

Even more preferentially, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:

R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI),

in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ alkyl group -C ₄ , preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;

- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; And

- E represents an -OR ₃ -O- group in which R ₃ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical , optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferentially, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:

- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;

- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:

R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI)

in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ alkyl group -C ₄ , preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;

- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;

- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene, 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; And

- E represents an -OR ₃ -O- group in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s).

According to a preferred embodiment, the (poly)carbodiimide compound is a compound of formula (XII) below:

(XII),

in which L1 is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a group -OR ₃ -O- in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30.

Advantageously, the total amount of (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight , even more preferably from 0.5 to 8%, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Siliconized acrylic copolymer

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers.

Preferably, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:

- at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic pattern; And

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit (PDMS).

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term "polydimethylsiloxanes" (also called abbreviated as PDMS), in accordance with general acceptance, means any organosilicon polymer or oligomer with a linear structure, of variable molecular weight, obtained by polymerization and/or polycondensation of suitably functionalized silanes, and consisting essentially of a repetition of main units in which the silicon atoms are interconnected by oxygen atoms (Si-O-Si siloxane bond), comprising methyl radicals directly bonded by through a carbon atom on said silicon atoms.

The PDMS chains which can be used to obtain the copolymer used according to the invention comprise at least one polymerizable radical group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain, that is to say that the PDMS can have for example a radical polymerizable group on each of the two ends of the chain or having a radical polymerizable group on one end of the chain and a terminal trimethylsilyl group on the other end of the chain.

By polymerizable radical group is meant a radical capable of polymerizing with other polymerizable radical groups or monomers. Preferably, the polydimethylsiloxane unit comprises at least one polymerizable radical group.

Preferably, the polymerizable radical group comprises at least one vinyl group.

Preferably, the polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit comprises at least one polymerizable radical group comprising a vinyl group, preferably at least two polymerizable radical groups comprising a vinyl group, preferably located on at least one of the ends of the chain.

As indicated previously, said silicone acrylic copolymer or copolymers preferably comprise at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic unit, that is to say at least one unit comprising a carboxylic group.

The term "carboxylic group" means a COOH or COO ^- functional group, the counter-ion of the COO ^- group being able to be chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, quaternary ammoniums.

Preferably, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:

- at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic unit, and at least one acrylic ester or methacrylic ester or vinyl ester unit; And

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit (PDMS).

More preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers comprising:
- at least one crotonic unit and at least one unit chosen from an alkyl crotonate unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a vinyl acetate unit; a vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; And
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit (PDMS).

By crotonic unit is meant a unit derived from a crotonic acid monomer or one of its salts.

By alkyl crotonate unit is meant a unit resulting from a crotonic acid ester monomer, having a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms.

By vinyl alkyl ester unit is meant a unit derived from a vinyl ester monomer having a linear or branched, saturated alkyl radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms.

By vinylacetate unit is meant a unit derived from a vinyl acetate monomer.

According to a preferred embodiment, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 18 carbon atoms , And
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit (PDMS), preferably comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising a vinyl group.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, said silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms, and

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) unit comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising a vinyl group.

More preferably, the composition comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers comprising:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 18 carbon atoms ; And
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit (PDMS) comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising a vinyl group.

Even more preferentially, the composition comprises one or more silicone acrylic copolymers comprising:

- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 6 to 16 carbon atoms; And

- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit (PDMS) comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising a vinyl group.

Among the silicone acrylic copolymers which can be used in the context according to the invention, mention may be made of the compound sold by the company Wacker Chemie AG under the trade name Belsil® P1101, with INCI name Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA /Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer.

Advantageously, the total amount of silicone acrylic copolymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Compounds with specific Hansen solubility parameters

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least two compounds having the following Hansen solubility parameters d:

d _h ranging from 5 to 40 MPa ^1/2 and

d _p ranging from 4 to 14 MPa ^1/2 .

Said compounds are defined by specific solubility parameters in the three-dimensional solubility space according to Hansen (The three-dimensional solubility parameters, J. Paint Technol., 39, page 105 (1967)).

According to Hansen, the internal energy change during vaporization is considered to be the sum of three contributions, the first due to hydrogen bonds (h-index), the second to dipole interactions (p-index) and the third to dispersion forces (subscript d).

The solubility parameter d (defined as the square root of the variation in internal energy per unit volume of the chemical species during its vaporization and expressed in (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 ) is defined as a vector of coordinates (d _h , d _p , d _d ), the amplitude of the vector being given by:

d² =d_h ²+d_p ²+d_d ².

Advantageously, said compounds have a d _h ranging from 10 to 35 MPa ^1/2 , preferably from 10 to 30 MPa ^1/2 , more preferably from 12 to 30 MPa ^1/2 .

According to a preferred embodiment, said compounds have a d _p ranging from 5 to 13 MPa ^1/2 , preferably from 6 to 13 MPa ^1/2 .

Advantageously, said compounds are chosen from ethanol, methylpropanediol, tert-butanol, isopropanolamine, pentylene glycol, aminomethyl propanol, caprylyl glycol, triethanolamine, thioglycolic acid, hexylene glycol, 1,2-hexane diol, thiolactic acid, ethylhexylglycerin, ethanolamine, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propan-2-ol, glycerol and mixtures thereof, preferably from ethanol, hexylene glycol, glycerol, methylpropanediol, dipropylene glycol and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, said compounds are chosen from ethanol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, methylpropanediol and mixtures thereof.

Advantageously, the total amount of compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters according to the invention ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, better still 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Coloring agent

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises one or more pigments.

By “pigment”, is meant all the pigments providing color to keratin materials. Their solubility in water at 25° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is less than 0.05% by weight, and preferably less than 0.01%.

The pigments which can be used are chosen in particular from the organic and/or inorganic pigments known in the art, in particular those which are described in the encyclopedia of chemical technology by Kirk-Othmer and in the encyclopedia of industrial chemistry by Ullmann.

They can be natural, of natural origin, or not.

These pigments can be in the form of powder or pigment paste. They can be coated or uncoated.

The pigments can for example be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments, lakes, special effect pigments such as nacres or glitter, and mixtures thereof.

The pigment can be an inorganic pigment. By mineral pigment, we mean any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the chapter inorganic pigment. Mention may be made, among the mineral pigments useful in the present invention, of iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate, ferric blue and titanium oxide.

The pigment may be an organic pigment. By "organic pigment", we mean any pigment that meets the definition of the Ullmann encyclopedia in the organic pigment chapter.

The organic pigment can in particular be chosen from nitroso, nitro, azo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, quinoline, anthraquinone, triphenylmethane, fluorane, phthalocyanine, metal complex type compounds, isoindolinone, isoindoline, quinacridone, perinone, perylene, diketopyrrolopyrrole, indigo , thioindigo, dioxazine, triphenylmethane, quinophthalone.

In particular, the white or colored organic pigments can be chosen from carmine, carbon black, aniline black, azo yellow, quinacridone, phthalocyanine blue, the blue pigments codified in the Color Index under the references Cl 42090, 69800, 69825, 74100, 74160, The yellow pigments codified in the color index under the references C 11680, 11710, 19140, 20040, 21100, 21100, 47000, 47005, the green pigments codified in the color index under the references Cl 61565, 61570, 74260, The orange pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 11725, 45370, 71105, the red pigments codified in the color index under the references CI 12085, 12120, 12370, 12420, 12490, 14700, 15525 pigments obtained by oxidizing polymerization of indole, phenolic derivatives such as they are described in the FR patent 2,679,771.

By way of example, mention may also be made of organic pigment pigment pastes such as the products sold by the company HOECHST under the name:

- YELLOW COSMENYL IOG: Pigment YELLOW 3 (Cl 11710);

- COSMENYL G YELLOW: Pigment YELLOW 1 (Cl 11680);

- ORANGE COSMENYL GR: Pigment ORANGE 43 (Cl 71105);

- COSMENYL RED R: Pigment RED 4 (Cl 12085);

- CARMIN COSMENYL FB: Pigment RED 5 (Cl 12490);

- VIOLET COSMENYL RL: Pigment VIOLET 23 (Cl 51319);

- COSMENYL BLUE A2R: Pigment BLUE 15.1 (Cl 74160);

- GREEN COSMENYL GG: Pigment GREEN 7 (Cl 74260);

- COSMENYL BLACK R: Pigment BLACK 7 (Cl 77266).

The pigments in accordance with the invention can also be in the form of composite pigments as described in patent EP 1 184 426. These composite pigments can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core, at least one binder ensuring the fixing organic pigments on the core, and at least one organic pigment at least partially covering the core.

The organic pigment can also be a lake. By lacquer, we mean the dyes adsorbed on insoluble particles, the assembly thus obtained remaining insoluble during use.

The inorganic substrates on which the dyes are adsorbed are for example alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

Among the dyes, we can mention carminic acid. Mention may also be made of the dyes known under the following names: D & C Red 21 (CI 45 380), D & C Orange 5 (CI 45 370), D & C Red 27 (CI 45 410), D & C Orange 10 (CI 45 425), D & C Red 3 (CI 45 430), D & C Red 4 (CI 15 510), D & C Red 33 (CI 17 200), D & C Yellow 5 (CI 19 140), D & C Yellow 6 (CI 15 985), D & C Green (CI 61 570), D & C Yellow 1 O (CI 77 002), D & C Green 3 (CI 42 053), D & C Blue 1 ( CI 42 090).

As examples of lacquers, mention may be made of the product known under the following name: D & C Red 7 (CI 15 850:1).

The pigment may also be a special effect pigment. By special effect pigments, we mean pigments that generally create a colored appearance (characterized by a certain shade, a certain liveliness and a certain clarity) which is not uniform and changes according to the conditions of observation (light, temperature , viewing angles, etc.). They are therefore opposed to colored pigments which provide a uniform opaque, semi-transparent or classic transparent shade.

There are several types of special effect pigments, those with a low refractive index such as fluorescent or photochromic pigments, and those with a higher refractive index such as nacres, interference pigments or glitter.

As examples of special effect pigments, mention may be made of pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as mica covered with titanium and iron oxides, mica covered with iron oxide, mica covered with titanium and in particular with ferric blue or chromium oxide, mica covered with titanium and an organic pigment as defined previously as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. As pearlescent pigments, mention may be made of Cellini nacres marketed by BASF (Mica-TiO ₂ -lacquer), Prestige marketed by Eckart (Mica-TiO ₂ ), Prestige Bronze marketed by Eckart (Mica-Fe ₂ O ₃ ) Colorona marketed by Merck (Mica-TiO ₂ -Fe ₂ O ₃ ).

Mention may also be made of the gold-colored nacres marketed by the company BASF under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne) ; the mother-of-pearl bronzes marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown nacres in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); mother-of-pearl with a copper sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); nacres with a red sheen in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with a yellow sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with a gold sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Tan opale G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold sheen in particular marketed by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), white mother-of-pearl with sheen silver in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the orange-pink golden-green nacres in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and mixtures thereof.

Still by way of example of nacres, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with titanium oxide.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with titanium oxide are in particular sold under the name METASHINE MC1080RY by the company TOYAL.

Finally, as examples of nacres, mention may also be made of polyethylene terephthalate flakes, in particular those marketed by the company Meadowbrook Inventions under the name Silver 1P 0.004X0.004 (silver flakes). One can also consider multilayer pigments based on synthetic substrates such as alumina, silica, calcium and sodium borosilicate or calcium and aluminum borosilicate, and aluminum.

The special effect pigments can also be chosen from reflective particles, that is to say in particular particles whose size, structure, in particular the thickness of the layer or layers which constitute it and their physical and chemical natures, and the surface finish, allow them to reflect incident light. This reflection may, where appropriate, have sufficient intensity to create on the surface of the composition or mixture, when the latter is applied to the support to be made up, highlights visible to the naked eye, that is i.e. brighter points that contrast with their surroundings by seeming to shine.

The reflective particles can be selected so as not to significantly alter the coloring effect generated by the coloring agents associated with them and more particularly so as to optimize this effect in terms of color rendering. They may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or reflection.

These particles can have various shapes, in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical.

The reflective particles, whatever their shape, may or may not have a multilayer structure and, in the case of a multilayer structure, for example at least one layer of uniform thickness, in particular of a reflective material.

When the reflective particles do not have a multilayer structure, they may be composed for example of metal oxides, in particular titanium or iron oxides obtained by synthesis.

When the reflective particles have a multilayer structure, these may for example comprise a natural or synthetic substrate, in particular a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of a reflective material, in particular of at least one metal or metallic material . The substrate can be monomaterial, multimaterial, organic and/or inorganic.

More particularly, it can be chosen from glasses, ceramics, graphite, metal oxides, aluminas, silicas, silicates, in particular aluminosilicates and borosilicates, synthetic mica and mixtures thereof, this list not being limiting.

The reflective material may comprise a layer of metal or of a metallic material.

Reflective particles are described in particular in the documents JP-A-09188830, JP-A-10158450, JP-A-10158541, JP-A-07258460 and JP-A-05017710.

Still as an example of reflective particles comprising a mineral substrate coated with a layer of metal, mention may also be made of particles comprising a borosilicate substrate coated with silver.

Particles with a glass substrate coated with silver, in the form of platelets, are sold under the name MICROGLASS METASHINE REFSX 2025 PS by the company TOYAL. Particles with a glass substrate coated with a nickel/chromium/molybdenum alloy are sold under the name CRYSTAL STAR GF 550, GF 2525 by this same company.

It is also possible to use particles comprising a metal substrate such as silver, aluminum, iron, chromium, nickel, molybdenum, gold, copper, zinc, tin, magnesium, steel, bronze, titanium, said substrate being coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide such as titanium oxide, aluminum oxide, iron oxide, cerium, chromium oxide, silicon oxides and mixtures thereof.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the aluminum, bronze or copper powders coated with SiO ₂ marketed under the name VISIONAIRE by the company ECKART.

Mention may also be made of pigments with an interference effect not fixed on a substrate, such as liquid crystals (Helicones HC from Wacker), holographic interference flakes (Geometric Pigments or Spectra f/x from Spectratek). Special effect pigments also include fluorescent pigments, whether fluorescent in daylight or which produce ultraviolet fluorescence, phosphorescent pigments, photochromic pigments, thermochromic pigments and quantum dots, marketed for example by the Quantum Dots Corporation.

The variety of pigments which can be used in the present invention makes it possible to obtain a rich palette of colors, as well as particular optical effects such as metallic and interference effects.

The size of the pigment used in the composition according to the present invention is generally between 10 nm and 200 μm, preferably between 20 nm and 80 μm, and more preferably between 30 nm and 50 μm.

The pigments can be dispersed in the composition using a dispersing agent.

The dispersing agent serves to protect the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. This dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, they can cling physically or chemically to the surface of the pigments. These dispersants also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium. In particular, use is made of esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid in particular and of C8 to C20 fatty acid and of polyol such as glycerol, diglycerin, such as poly(12-hydroxystearic) acid stearate of molecular weight of approximately 750 g/mole such as that sold under the name Solsperse 21,000 by the company Avecia, polygyceryl-2 dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel or polyhydroxystearic acid such as than that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by the company Uniqema and their mixtures.

As other dispersant that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids such as Solsperse 17000 sold by the company Avecia, mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane/oxypropylene such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C.

The pigments used in the composition can be surface-treated with an organic agent.

Thus the pigments previously surface-treated useful in the context of the invention are pigments which have undergone totally or partially a surface treatment of a chemical, electronic, electro-chemical, mechano-chemical or mechanical nature, with an organic agent such as those which are described in particular in Cosmetics and Toiletries, February 1990, Vol. 105, p. 53-64 before being dispersed in the composition in accordance with the invention. These organic agents can for example be chosen from waxes, for example carnauba wax and beeswax; fatty acids, fatty alcohols and their derivatives, such as stearic acid, hydroxystearic acid, stearyl alcohol, hydroxystearyl alcohol, lauric acid and their derivatives; anionic surfactants; lecithins; sodium, potassium, magnesium, iron, titanium, zinc or aluminum salts of fatty acids, for example aluminum stearate or laurate; metal alkoxides; polyethylene; (meth)acrylic polymers, for example polymethylmethacrylates; polymers and copolymers containing acrylate units; alkanoamines; silicone compounds, for example silicones, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes; fluorinated organic compounds, for example perfluoroalkyl ethers; fluoro-silicone compounds.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the composition may also have been treated with a mixture of these compounds and/or have undergone several surface treatments.

The surface-treated pigments useful in the context of the present invention can be prepared according to surface treatment techniques well known to those skilled in the art or found as such in commerce.

Preferably, the surface-treated pigments are covered by an organic layer.

The organic agent with which the pigments are treated can be deposited on the pigments by solvent evaporation, chemical reaction between the molecules of the surfactant or creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments.

The surface treatment can thus be carried out, for example, by chemical reaction of a surfactant with the surface of the pigments and creation of a covalent bond between the surfactant and the pigments or the fillers. This method is described in particular in US patent 4,578,266.

Preferably, an organic agent bound to the pigments covalently will be used.

The surface treatment agent can represent from 0.1 to 50% by weight of the total weight of the surface-treated pigment, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight, and even more preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. weight of the total weight of surface-treated pigment.

Preferably, the surface treatments of the pigments are chosen from the following treatments:

- a PEG-Silicone treatment such as the AQ surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Methicone treatment such as the SI surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Dimethicone treatment such as the Covasil 3.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Dimethicone/Trimethylsiloxysilicate treatment such as the Covasil 4.05 surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- a Magnesium Myristate treatment such as the MM surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- an Aluminum Dimyristate treatment such as the MI surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

- a Perfluoropolymethylisopropyl ether treatment such as the FHC surface treatment marketed by LCW;

- an Isostearyl Sebacate treatment such as the HS surface treatment marketed by Miyoshi;

- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the PF surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an acrylate copolymer/dimethicone and perfluoalkyl phosphate treatment such as the FSA surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- a Polymethylhydrogen siloxane/Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate treatment such as the FS01 surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an Acrylate/Dimethicone Copolymer treatment such as the ASC surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- an Acrylate copolymer treatment such as the APD surface treatment marketed by Daito;

- a Perfluoroalkyl Phosphate/Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate treatment such as the PF+ITT surface treatment marketed by Daito.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the dispersing agent is present with organic or inorganic pigments in particulate form of sub-micron size in composition B.

By “sub-micronic” or in English “sub-micronic” is meant pigments whose particle size has been micronized by the micronization method and whose average particle size is less than one micrometer (µm), in particular between 0.1 and 0.9 μm, and preferably between 0.2 and 0.6 μm.

According to one embodiment, the dispersing agent and the pigment(s) are present in quantity (dispersant: pigment), according to a weight ratio, of between 1:4 and 4:1, particularly between 1.5:3.5 and 3.5:1 or better between 1.75:3 and 3:1.

The dispersing agent(s) can therefore have a silicone skeleton, such as silicone polyether and dispersants of the amino-silicone type, different from the amino silicones mentioned below. Suitable dispersing agents include:

- amino-silicones i.e. silicones comprising one or more amino groups such as those marketed under the names and references: BYK LPX 21879, by BYK, GP-4, GP-6, GP-344, GP-851, GP-965, GP-967 and GP-988-1, marketed by Genesee polymers,

- silicone acrylates such as Tego ® RC 902, Tego ® RC 922, Tego ® RC 1041, and Tego ® RC 1043, marketed by Evonik,

- polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) silicones with carboxylic groups such as X-22162 and X-22370 by Shin-Etsu, silicone epoxy such as GP-29, GP-32, GP-502, GP-504, GP-514, GP-607, GP-682, and GP-695, by Genesee Polymers, or Tego ® RC 1401, Tego ® RC 1403, Tego ® RC 1412, by Evonik.

According to one particular embodiment, the dispersing agent(s) are of the amino-silicone type different from the amino silicones mentioned below and are cationic.

Preferably, the pigment(s) is (are) chosen from inorganic, mixed inorganic-organic or organic pigments.

In a variant of the invention, the pigment(s) are organic pigments, preferably organic pigments surface-treated with an organic agent chosen from silicone compounds. In another variant of the invention, the pigment or pigments are mineral pigments.

Preferably, the pigment or pigments are chosen from iron oxides, in particular red, brown or black. By way of example of iron oxide, mention may be made of the iron oxide sold by the company Sun Chemical under the name SunPuro® Red Iron Oxide.

Direct dye

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may comprise one or more direct dye(s).

By “direct dye”, we mean natural and/or synthetic dyes, different from oxidation dyes. These are dyes that will diffuse superficially on the fiber.

They can be ionic or nonionic, preferably cationic or nonionic.

Examples of suitable direct dyes which may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly)methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanines and styryls; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro(hetero)aryl dyes; tri(hetero)arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.

The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the cationic hydrazono dyes of formulas (XIII) and (XIV), the cationic azo dyes (XV) and (XVI) below:

(XIII),

(XIV),

(XV),

(XVI),

formulas (XIII) to (XVI) in which:

- Het+ represents a cationic heteroaryl radical, preferably with an endocyclic cationic charge such as imidazolium, indolium, or pyridinium, optionally substituted preferably by at least one (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group such as methyl;

- Ar+ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, with an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, particularly tri(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl-ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

- Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron-donating groups such as i) (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl optionally substituted, ii) (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl)amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl(C ₁ -C ₈ )alkylamino, v) N-(C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkyl-N-aryl (C ₁ -C ₈ ) alkylamino optionally substituted or else Ar represents a julolidine group;

- Ar'' represents an optionally substituted (hetero)aryl group such as phenyl or pyrazolyl optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl, hydroxyl, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl )amino, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy or phenyl;

- Ra and Rb, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl group optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

or else the substituent Ra with a substituent of Het+ and/or Rb with a substituent of Ar form together with the atoms which carry them a (hetero)cycloalkyl; particularly Ra and Rb, representing a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

- Q- represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion such as a halide or an alkyl sulfate.

In particular, mention may be made of direct dyes with an endocyclic cationic charge, azoic and hydrazono, of formula (XIII) to (XVI) as defined above; more particularly, the cationic direct dyes with an endocyclic cationic charge described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954; preferably the following direct dyes:

(XVII),

(XVIII),

Formulas (XVII) and (XVIII) in which:

- R ¹ represents a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (C ₁ -C ₄ )alkyl group such as methyl; And

- R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom or an electron-donating group such as (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkyl optionally substituted, (C ₁ -C ₈ )alkoxy optionally substituted, (di)(C ₁ -C ₈ )(alkyl) amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group(s) by a hydroxyl group; particularly R ⁴ is a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH,

- Q- is an anionic counter ion as defined above, particularly a halide such as chloride or an alkyl sulphate such as methyl sulphate or mesytyl.

In particular, the dyes of formula (XV) and (XVI) are chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or their derivatives with Q′ an anionic counterion as defined previously, particularly halide such as chloride or a alkyl sulfate such as methyl or mesyl sulfate.

The direct dyes can be chosen from anionic direct dyes. The anionic direct dyes of the invention are dyes commonly called “acid” direct dyes for their affinity with alkaline substances. By anionic direct dyes is meant any direct dye comprising in its structure at least one CO ₂ R or SO ₃ R substituent with R designating a hydrogen atom or a cation originating from a metal or an amine, or an ammonium ion . The anionic dyes can be chosen from acid nitro direct dyes, acid azo dyes, acid azine dyes, acid triarylmethane dyes, acid indoamine dyes, acid anthraquinone dyes, indigoids and acid natural dyes.

As acid dyes useful in the invention, mention may be made of the dyes of formulas (XIX), (XIX'), (XX), (XX'), (XXI), (XXI'), (XXII), (XXII '), (XXIII), (XXIV), (XXV) and (XXVI) below:

1. diaryl anionic azo dyes of formula (XIX) or (XIX'):

(XX),

(XIX'),

formulas (XIX) and (XIX') in which:

- R ₇ , R ₈ , R ₉ , R ₁₀ , R′ ₇ , R′ ₈ , R′ ₉ and R′ ₁₀ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X'', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- R''-S(O) ₂ -, with R'' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group, an aryl group, (di) (alkyl) amino, aryl (alkyl) amino; preferably a phenylamino or phenyl group;

- R'''-S(O) ₂ -X'- with R''' representing an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group, X' as defined above;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ and iv) alkoxy with M+ as defined above;

- optionally substituted heteroaryl; preferentially a benzothiazolyl group;

- cycloalkyl, in particular cyclohexyl;

- Ar-N=N- with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl, (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or phenylamino groups;

- or else two contiguous groups R ₇ with R ₈ or R ₈ with R ₉ or R ₉ with R ₁₀ together form a fused benzo A'group; and R' ₇ with R' ₈ or R' ₈ with R' ₉ or R' ₉ with R' ₁₀ together form a fused group benzo B'; with A' and B' optionally substituted with one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; (v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X''-; x) Ar-N=N- and xi) optionally substituted aryl(alkyl)amino; with M+, R°, X, X', X'' and Ar as defined previously;

- W represents a sigma σ bond, an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical i) –NR- with R as defined previously, or ii) methylene -C(Ra)(Rb)- with Ra and Rb identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom or an aryl group, or else Ra and Rb form together with the carbon atom which carries them a cycloalkyl spiro; preferentially W represents a sulfur atom or Ra and Rb together form a cyclohexyl;

it being understood that the formulas (XIX) and (XIX') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical (O)CO--, M+ on one of the rings A, A ', B, B' or C; preferentially sodium sulfonate.

Examples of dyes of formula (XIX) include: Acid Red 1, Acid Red 4, Acid Red 13, Acid Red 14, Acid Red 18, Acid Red 27, Acid Red 28, Acid Red 32, Acid Red 33, Acid Red 35, Acid Red 37, Acid Red 40, Acid Red 41, Acid Red 42, Acid Red 44, Pigment red 57, Acid Red 68, Acid Red 73, Acid Red 135, Acid Red 138, Acid Red 184, Food Red 1, Food Red 13, Acid Orange 6, Acid Orange 7, Acid Orange 10, Acid Orange 19, Acid Orange 20, Acid Orange 24, Yellow 6, Acid Yellow 9, Acid Yellow 36, Acid Yellow 199, Food Yellow 3 ; Acid Violet 7, Acid Violet 14, Acid Blue 113, Acid Blue 117, Acid Black 1, Acid Brown 4, Acid Brown 20, Acid Black 26, Acid Black 52, Food Black 1, Food Black 2; Food yellow 3 or sunset yellow;

and by way of example of dyes of formula (XIX′), mention may be made of: Acid Red 111, Acid Red 134, Acid yellow 38;

b) the anionic azo dyes pyrrazolone of formula (XX) and (XX'):

(XX),

(XX'),

formulas (XX) and (XX') in which:

- R ₁₁ , R ₁₂ and R ₁₃ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, an alkyl group or -(O) ₂ S(O-), M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl group or a -C(O)O- group, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- R ₁₅ represents a hydrogen atom;

- R ₁₆ represents an oxo group in which case R' ₁₆ is absent, or else R ₁₅ with R ₁₆ together form a double bond;

- R ₁₇ and R ₁₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- Ar-OS(O) ₂ - with Ar representing an optionally substituted aryl group; preferably a phenyl optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups;

- R ₁₉ and R ₂₀ together form either a double bond or a benzo group D', optionally substituted;

- R′ ₁₆ , R′ ₁₉ and R′ ₂₀ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl or hydroxy group;

- R ₂₁ represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or alkoxy group;

- Ra and Rb which are identical or different, are as defined above, preferably Ra represents a hydrogen atom and Rb represents an aryl group;

- Y represents either a hydroxy group or an oxo group;

- represents a single bond when Y is an oxo group; and represents a double bond when Y represents a hydroxy group;

it being understood that the formulas (XX) and (XX') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+ on one of the rings D or E ; preferentially sodium sulfonate;

By way of example of dyes of formula (XX), mention may be made of: Acid Red 195, Acid Yellow 23, Acid Yellow 27, Acid Yellow 76, and by way of example of dyes of formula (XX'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 17;

c) anthraquinone dyes of formula (XXI) and (XXI'):

(XXI),

(XXI'),

formulas (XXI) and (XXI') in which:

- R ₂₂ , R ₂₃ , R ₂₄ , R ₂₅ , R ₂₆ and R ₂₇ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- optionally substituted aryloxy or arylthio, preferentially substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- aryl(alkyl)amino optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from alkyl and (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- Z' represents a hydrogen atom or an NR ₂₈ R ₂₉ group with R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- polyhydroxyalkyl such as hydroxyethyl;

- aryl optionally substituted by one or more particularly i) alkyl groups such as methyl, n-dodecyl, n-butyl; ii) (O)2S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as previously defined; iii) R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R°, X, X' and X'' as defined above, preferably R° represents an alkyl group;

- cycloakyl, in particular cyclohexyl;

- Z represents a group chosen from hydroxy and NR′ ₂₈ R′ ₂₉ with R′ ₂₈ and R′ ₂₉ , which are identical or different, represent the same atoms or groups as R ₂₈ and R ₂₉ as defined previously;

it being understood that the formulas (XXI) and (XXI') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferably sodium sulfonate;

Examples of dyes of formula (XXI) include: Acid Blue 25, Acid Blue 43, Acid Blue 62, Acid Blue 78, Acid Blue 129, Acid Blue 138, Acid Blue 140, Acid Blue 251, Acid Green 25, Acid Green 41, Acid Violet 42, Acid Violet 43, Mordant Red 3; EXT purple #2; and by way of example of dyes of formula (XXI′), mention may be made of: Acid Black 48;

d) nitro dyes of formula (XXII), (XXII'):

(XXII),

(XXII'),

formulas (XXII) and (XXII') in which:

- R ₃₀ , R ₃₁ and R ₃₂ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups, alkylthio optionally substituted by one or more hydroxy groups;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- polyhaloalkyl;

- R°-C(X)-X’-, R°-X’-C(X)-, R°-X’-C(X)-X’’- with R°; X, X' and X'' as previously defined;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- (di)(hydroxyalkyl)amino;

- heterocycloalkyl such as piperidino, piperazino or morpholino; particularly R ₃₀ , R ₃₁ and R ₃₂ represent a hydrogen atom;

- Rc and Rd, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- W is as defined above; W particularly represents an –NH– group;

- ALK represents a divalent linear or branched, C ₁ -C ₆ alkylene group; particularly ALK represents a -CH ₂ -CH ₂ - group;

- n is 1 or 2;

- p represents an integer comprised inclusively between 1 and 5;

- q represents an integer comprised inclusively between 1 and 4;

- u is 0 or 1;

- when n is 1, J represents a nitro or nitroso group; especially nitro;

- when n is 2, J represents an oxygen or sulfur atom, or a divalent radical –S(O)m– with m representing an integer 1 or 2; preferably J represents a –SO ₂ – radical;

- M' represents a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- present or absent represents a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more R ₃₀ groups as defined above,

it being understood that the formulas (XXII) and (XXII') comprise at least one sulphonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulphonate.

By way of example of dyes of formula (XXII), mention may be made of: Acid Brown 13; Acid Orange 3; as examples of dyes of formula (XXII'), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 1, Sodium salt of 2,4-dinitro-1-naphthol-7-sulfonic acid, 2-piperidino 5-nitro benzene acid sulfonic acid, 2(4'-N,N(2"-hydroxyethyl)amino-2'-nitro)aniline ethane sulfonic acid, 4-β-hydroxyethylamino-3-nitrobenzene sulfonic acid; EXT D&C yellow 7;

e) triarylmethane dyes of formula (XXIII):

(XXIII),

formula (XXIII) in which:

- R ₃₃ , R ₃₄ , R ₃₅ and R ₃₆ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from alkyl, optionally substituted aryl and optionally substituted arylalkyl; particularly an alkyl and benzyl group optionally substituted by an (O)mS(O-)-, M+ group with M+ and m as defined previously;

- R ₃₇ , R ₃₈ , R ₃₉ , R ₄₀ , R ₄₁ , R ₄₂ , R ₄₃ and R ₄₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- (di)(alkyl)amino;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X'', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- or else two contiguous groups R ₄₁ with R ₄₂ or R ₄₂ with R ₄₃ or R ₄₃ with R ₄₄ together form a fused benzo group: I'; with I′ optionally substituted by one or more groups chosen from i) nitro; ii) nitroso; iii) (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+; iv) hydroxy; (v) mercapto; vi) (di)(alkyl)amino; vii) R°-C(X)-X'-; viii) R°-X'-C(X)-; ix) R°-X'-C(X)-X''-; with M+, R°, X, X', X'' as defined previously;

in particular R ₃₇ to R ₄₀ represent a hydrogen atom, and R ₄₁ to R ₄₄ , which are identical or different, represent a hydroxy or (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ group; and when R ₄₃ with R ₄₄ together form a benzo group, it is preferentially substituted by an (O) ₂ S(O-)- group;

it being understood that at least one of the rings G, H, I or I' comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)- or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-; preferentially sulfonate.

By way of example of dyes of formula (XXIII), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 1; Acid Blue 3; Acid Blue 7, Acid Blue 9; Acid Violet 49; Acid green 3; Acid green 5; Acid Green 50.

f) dyes derived from xanthene of formula (XXIV):

(XXIV),

formula (XXIV) in which:

- R ₄₅ , R ₄₆ , R ₄₇ and R ₄₈ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a halogen atom;

- R ₄₉ , R ₅₀ , R ₅₁ and R ₅₂ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen or halogen atom, or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined previously;

particularly R ₄₉ , R ₅₀ , R ₅₁ and R ₅₂ represent a hydrogen or halogen atom;

- G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;

- L represents an alcoholate O-, M+; an S-, M+ thioalcoholate or an NRf group, with Rf representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group, and M+ as defined previously; M+ is particularly sodium or potassium;

- L' represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an ammonium group: N+RfRg, with Rf and Rg, identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, an optionally substituted alkyl or aryl group; L' represents in particular an oxygen atom or a phenylamino group optionally substituted by one or more alkyl groups or (O)mS(O-)-, M+ with m and M+ as defined above;

- Q and Q', identical or different, represent an oxygen or sulfur atom; particularly Q and Q' represent an oxygen atom;

- M+ is as defined previously.

By way of example of dyes of formula (XXIV), mention may be made of: Acid Yellow 73; Acid Red 51; Acid Red 52, Acid Red 87; Acid Red 92; Acid Red 95; Acid Violet 9;

g) dyes derived from indole of formula (XXV):

(XXV),

formula (XXV) in which:

- R ₅₃ , R ₅₄ , R ₅₅ , R ₅₆ , R ₅₇ , R ₅₈ , R ₅₉ and R ₆₀ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from:

- alkyl;

- alkoxy, alkylthio;

- hydroxy, mercapto;

- nitro, nitroso;

- R°-C(X)-X'-, R°-X'-C(X)-, R°-X'-C(X)-X''- with R° representing a hydrogen atom, an alkyl or aryl group; X, X' and X'', identical or different, representing an oxygen, sulfur or NR atom with R representing a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

- (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counterion;

- (O)CO--, M+ with M+ as defined above;

- G represents an oxygen or sulfur atom or an NRe group with Re as defined previously; particularly G represents an oxygen atom;

- Ri and Rh, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group;

it being understood that formula (XXIII) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O)2S(O-)-, M+ or a carboxylate radical -C(O)O-, M+; preferentially sodium sulphonate.

By way of example of dyes of formula (XXV), mention may be made of: Acid Blue 74;

h) dyes derived from quinoline of formula (XXVI):

(XXVI),

formula (XXVI) in which:

- R ₆₁ represents a hydrogen or halogen atom or an alkyl group;

- R ₆₂ , R ₆₃ , and R ₆₄ , identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a cationic counter-ion ;

or else R ₆₁ with R ₆₂ , or R ₆₁ with R ₆₄ , together form a benzo group optionally substituted by one or more (O) ₂ S(O-)- groups, M+ with M+ representing a hydrogen atom or a counter -cationic ion;

it being understood that formula (XXVI) comprises at least one sulphonate radical (O) ₂ S(O-)-, M+, preferably sodium sulphonate.

Examples of dyes of formula (XXVI) include: Acid Yellow 2, Acid Yellow 3 and Acid Yellow 5.

Among the natural direct dyes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of lawsone, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogalline, protocatechaldehyde, indigo, isatin , curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidine, orceins. It is also possible to use extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna.

Preferably, the direct dyes are chosen from anionic direct dyes.

The coloring agent(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from the pigments.

The pigment(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.05 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

The direct dye(s) may be present in a total amount ranging from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.

Non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may also comprise at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “non-carboxylic agent” means an agent which does not comprise a carboxylic acid (-COOH) or carboxylate ( ^-COO- ) function.

By thickening agent is meant within the meaning of the present invention a compound which increases the viscosity of a composition into which it is introduced at a concentration of 0.05% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, by at least 20 cps, preferably at least 50 cps, at room temperature (25°C), atmospheric pressure and a shear rate of 1 s ^-1 (viscosity can be measured using a cone viscometer /plan, Haake R600 Rheometer or similar).

Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from non-carboxylic anionic polymers, more preferably from anionic polymers containing sulphonic group(s).

By anionic polymer is meant within the meaning of the invention a polymer comprising one or more anionic or anionizable groups and not comprising any cationic or cationizable group.

Advantageously, the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) are chosen from anionic polymers comprising at least one ethylenically unsaturated monomer containing a sulphonic group, in free or partially or totally neutralized form.

These polymers can be crosslinked or non-crosslinked. They are preferably cross-linked.

These polymers may or may not be associative, preferably non-associative.

It is recalled that “associative polymers” are polymers capable, in an aqueous medium, of combining reversibly with one another or with other molecules.

Their chemical structure more particularly comprises at least one hydrophilic zone and at least one hydrophobic zone.

By “hydrophobic group”, is meant a radical or polymer with a hydrocarbon chain, saturated or not, linear or branched, comprising at least 8 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 30 carbon atoms. carbon and more preferably from 18 to 30 carbon atoms.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon group comes from a monofunctional compound. By way of example, the hydrophobic group can come from a fatty alcohol such as stearyl alcohol, dodecyl alcohol, decyl alcohol. It can also designate a hydrocarbon-based polymer such as for example polybutadiene.

The ethylenically unsaturated monomers containing a sulfonic group are chosen in particular from vinylsulfonic acid, styrenesulfonic acid, (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulfonic acids, N-(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkyl( meth)acrylamido-(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulphonics such as undecyl-acrylamido-methane-sulphonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

More preferably, (meth)acrylamido(C ₁ -C ₂₂ )alkylsulphonic acids such as for example acrylamido-methane-sulphonic acid, acrylamido-ethane-sulphonic acid, acrylamido-propane-sulphonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, methacrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-n-butane-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,4,4- trimethylpentane-sulfonic, 2-methacrylamido-dodecyl-sulfonic acid, 2-acrylamido-2,6-dimethyl-3-heptane-sulfonic acid as well as their partially or totally neutralized forms.

More particularly, 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid (AMPS) as well as its partially or totally neutralized forms will be used.

Among the copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid, mention may be made of crosslinked copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methyl-propane sulphonic acid and partially or totally neutralized acrylamide, and mention may be made in particular of product described in Example 1 of document EP 503 853 and reference may be made to this document as regards these polymers.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid or its salts and hydroxyethyl acrylate, such as the compound sold under the name Sepinov EMT 10 by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

The associative AMPS polymers can in particular be chosen from random associative polymers of AMPS modified by reaction with an n-monoalkylamine or a di-n-alkylamine in C ₆ -C ₂₂ , and such as those described in the patent application WO 00/31154 (part of the content of the description). These polymers may also contain other ethylenically unsaturated hydrophilic monomers chosen, for example, from derivatives of (meth)acrylic acids, such as their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, (meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.

The preferred polymers of this family are chosen from associative copolymers of AMPS and of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer.

These same copolymers may also contain one or more ethylenically unsaturated monomers not comprising a fatty chain such as derivatives of (meth)acrylic acids, in particular their esters obtained with monoalcohols or mono- or poly-alkylene glycols, ( meth)acrylamides, vinylpyrrolidone, or mixtures of these compounds.

These copolymers are described in particular in patent application EP-A-750899, US patent 5089578 and in the following publications by Yotaro Morishima:

- "Self-assembling amphiphilic polyelectrolytes and their nanostructures - Chinese Journal of Polymer Science Vol. 18, No. 40, (2000), 323-336. » ;

- “Miscelle formation of random copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and a non-ionic surfactant macromonomer in water as studied by fluorescence and dynamic light scattering - Macromolecules, Vol. 33, No. 10 (2000), 3694-3704”;

- “Solution properties of miscelle networks formed by non-ionic moieties covalently bound to a polyelectrolyte: salt effects on rheological behavior - Langmuir, , Vol. 16, No. 12, (2000) 5324-5332”;

- “Stimuli responsive amphiphilic copolymers of sodium 2-(acrylamido)-2-methylpropanesulfonate and associative macromonomers - Polym. Preprint, Div. Polym. Chem., 40(2), (1999), 220-221”.

Among these polymers, we can mention:

- crosslinked or non-crosslinked copolymers, neutralized or not, comprising from 15 to 60% by weight of AMPS units and from 40 to 85% by weight of (C ₈ -C ₁₆ )alkyl (meth)acrylamide units or of (C ₈ -C ₁₆ )alkyl (meth)acrylate with respect to the polymer, such as those described in application EP-A750 899;

- terpolymers comprising from 10 to 90% by mole of acrylamide units, from 0.1 to 10% by mole of AMPS units and from 5 to 80% by mole of n-(C ₆ -C ₁₈ )alkylacrylamide units, such as those described in US-5089578.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of fully neutralized AMPS and of dodecyl methacrylate as well as non-crosslinked and crosslinked copolymers of AMPS and n-dodecylmethacrylamide, such as those described in the articles by Morishima cited above.

Preferably, the non-carboxylic anionic thickener(s) are chosen from sodium 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane-sulfonate/hydroxyethylacrylate copolymer, marketed by the company SEPPIC (INCI name: hydroxyethylacrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer).

Advantageously, the total quantity of the non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C.

amino silicone

Composition C used in the context of the method according to the invention may also comprise at least one amino silicone.

The term " amino silicone " denotes any silicone comprising at least one primary, secondary, tertiary amine or a quaternary ammonium group.

Preferably, the amino silicone is different from the silicone acrylic copolymer.

The weight average molecular masses of these amino silicones can be measured by Gel Permeation Chromatography (GPC) at ambient temperature (25° C.) in polystyrene equivalent. The columns used are μ styragel columns. The eluent is THF, the flow rate is 1 ml/min. 200 μl of a 0.5% by weight solution of silicone in THF are injected. Detection is done by refractometry and UVmetry.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) capable of being used in the context of the invention are chosen from:

a) the polysiloxanes corresponding to the formula (A):

in which x' and y' are integers such that the weight-average molecular weight (Mw) is between 5,000 and 500,000 approximately;

b) amino silicones corresponding to formula (B):

R'aG3-a-Si(OSiG2)n-(OSiGbR'2-b)m-O-SiG3-a-R'a (B)

in which :
- G, identical or different, denotes a hydrogen atom, a phenyl group, OH, C ₁ -C ₈ alkyl, for example methyl, or C ₁ -C ₈ alkoxy, for example methoxy,
- a, identical or different, designates 0 or an integer from 1 to 3, in particular 0,
- b denotes 0 or 1, in particular 1,
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- R', identical or different, denotes a monovalent radical of formula -CqH2qL in which q is a number ranging from 2 to 8, and L is an optionally quaternized amino group chosen from the groups: -N(R")2; - N+(R")3 A-; -NR"-QN(R")2 and -NR"-Q-N+(R")3 A-, in which R", identical or different, denotes hydrogen, phenyl, benzyl, or a monovalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, by example a C ₁ -C ₂₀ alkyl radical; Q denotes a group of formula C _r H _2r , linear or branched, r being an integer ranging from 2 to 6, preferably from 2 to 4; and A- represents an anion cosmetically acceptable, in particular halide such as fluoride, chloride, bromide or iodide.

Preferably, the amino silicone(s) are chosen from the amino silicones of formula (B). Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the following formulas (C), (D), (E), (F) and/or (G).

According to a first embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from silicones called "trimethylsilylamodimethicone" corresponding to formula (C):

in which m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000, in particular from 50 to 150, n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 1999, and in particular from 49 to 149 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10.

According to a second embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of formula (D) below:

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n+m) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 250 and more particularly from 100 to 200; n possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 249 and more particularly from 125 to 175 and m possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10, more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ , identical or different, represent a hydroxy or C ₁ -C ₄ alkoxy radical, at least one of the radicals R ₁ to R ₃ designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio preferably ranges from 0.2:1 to 0.4:1 and preferably from 0.25:1 to 0.35:1 and more particularly is equal to 0.3:1.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these silicones preferably ranges from 2,000 to 1,000,000, more particularly from 3,500 to 200,000.

According to a third embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the following silicones of formula (E):

in which :
- p and q are numbers such that the sum (p+q) varies from 1 to 1000, in particular from 50 to 350, and more particularly from 150 to 250; p possibly denoting a number from 0 to 999 and in particular from 49 to 349 and more particularly from 159 to 239 and q possibly denoting a number from 1 to 1000, in particular from 1 to 10 and more particularly from 1 to 5;
- R ₁ , R ₂ , different, represent a hydroxy or alkoxy radical in C ₁ -C ₄ , at least one of the radicals R ₁ or R ₂ designating an alkoxy radical.

Preferably the alkoxy radical is a methoxy radical.

The hydroxy/alkoxy molar ratio generally ranges from 1:0.8 to 1:1.1 and preferably from 1:0.9 to 1:1 and more particularly is equal to 1:0.95.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone preferably ranges from 2000 to 200000 and even more particularly from 5000 to 100000 and more particularly from 10000 to 50000.

Commercial products comprising silicones of structure (D) or (E) can include in their composition one or more other amino silicones whose structure is different from formulas (D) or (E).

A product containing amino silicones of structure (D) is offered by WACKER under the name BELSIL® ADM 652.

A product containing amino silicones of structure (E) is offered by WACKER under the name Fluid WR 1300® or else under the name Belsil ADM Log 1.

When these amino silicones are implemented, a particularly advantageous embodiment is their use in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion. The oil-in-water emulsion can comprise one or more surfactants. The surfactants can be of any kind, but preferably cationic and/or nonionic. The number average size of the silicone particles in the emulsion generally ranges from 3 nm to 500 nanometers. Preferably, in particular as amino silicones of formula (E), use is made of microemulsions whose mean particle size ranges from 5 nm to 60 nanometers (limits included) and more particularly from 10 nm to 50 nanometers (limits included). Thus, it is possible to use, according to the invention, the amino silicone microemulsions of formula (E) offered under the names FINISH CT 96 E® or SLM 28020® by the company WACKER.

According to a fourth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (F):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably linear.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 2000 to 1000000 and even more particularly from 3500 to 200000.

Another silicone corresponding to formula (B) is for example XIAMETER MEM 8299 EMULSION from DOW CORNING (INCI name amodimethicone and trideceth-6 and cetrimonium chloride).

According to a fifth embodiment, the amino silicones corresponding to formula (B) are chosen from the silicones of following formula (G):

in which :
- m and n are numbers such that the sum (n + m) varies from 1 to 2000 and in particular from 50 to 150, n being able to designate a number from 0 to 1999 and in particular from 49 to 149 and m being able to designate a number from 1 to 2000, and in particular from 1 to 10;
- A denotes a linear or branched alkylene radical having from 4 to 8 carbon atoms and preferably 4 carbon atoms. This radical is preferably branched.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of these amino silicones preferably ranges from 500 to 1,000,000 and even more particularly from 1,000 to 200,000.

A silicone corresponding to this formula is, for example, DC2-8566 Amino Fluid from DOW CORNING.

c) amino silicones corresponding to the formula (H):

in which :
- R ₅ represents a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, or a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- Q- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 20, in particular from 2 to 8;
- s represents an average statistical value ranging from 20 to 200, in particular from 20 to 50.

Such amino silicones are described in particular in US Pat. No. 4,185,087.

- d) quaternary ammonium silicones of formula (I):

in which :
- R ₇ , which are identical or different, represent a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical or a ring comprising 5 or 6 carbon atoms, for example methyl;
- R ₆ represents a divalent hydrocarbon radical, in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical or a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyleneoxy radical, for example C ₁ -C ₈ linked to Si by an SiC bond;
- R ₈ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a monovalent hydrocarbon radical having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and in particular a C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkyl radical, a C ₂ -C ₁₈ alkenyl radical , an -R ₆ -NHCOR ₇ radical;
- X- is an anion such as a halide ion, in particular chloride or an organic acid salt, in particular acetate;
- r represents an average statistical value ranging from 2 to 200, in particular from 5 to 100.

These silicones are for example described in application EP-A-0530974.

e) amino silicones of formula (J):

in which :
- R ₁ , R ₂ , R ₃ and R ₄ , which are identical or different, denote a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a phenyl group,
- R ₅ denotes a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl radical or a hydroxyl group,
- n is an integer ranging from 1 to 5,
- m is an integer ranging from 1 to 5, and
- x is chosen such that the amine number varies from 0.01 to 1 meq/g.

f) multiblock polyoxyalkylenated amino silicones, of (AB) _n type, A being a polysiloxane block and B being a polyoxyalkylenated block comprising at least one amine group.

Said silicones preferably consist of repeating units of the following general formulas:

[-(SiMe ₂ O) _x SiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R'-O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -R'-N(H)-R- ]

or

[-(SiMe ₂ O)xSiMe ₂ - R -N(R")- R' - O(C ₂ H ₄ O) _a (C ₃ H ₆ O) _b -]

in which :
- a is an integer greater than or equal to 1, preferably ranging from 5 to 200, more particularly ranging from 10 to 100;
- b is an integer between 0 and 200, preferably ranging from 4 and 100, more particularly between 5 and 30;
- x is an integer ranging from 1 to 10000, more particularly from 10 to 5000;
- R" is a hydrogen atom or a methyl;
- R, identical or different, represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical C ₂ -C ₁₂ , linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R denotes a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical;
- R′, which are identical or different, represent a divalent C ₂ -C ₁₂ hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms such as oxygen; preferably, R' denotes an ethylene radical, a linear or branched propylene radical, a linear or branched butylene radical, or a CH ₂ CH ₂ CH ₂ OCH ₂ CH(OH)CH ₂ - radical; preferably R' denotes -CH(CH ₃ )-CH ₂ -.

The siloxane blocks preferably represent 50 and 95% by mole of the total weight of the silicone, more particularly from 70 to 85% by mole.

The amine content is preferably between 0.02 and 0.5 meq/g of copolymer in a 30% solution in dipropylene glycol, more particularly between 0.05 and 0.2.

The weight-average molecular mass (Mw) of the silicone is preferably between 5,000 and 1,000,000, more particularly between 10,000 and 200,000.

Mention may in particular be made of the silicones marketed under the names Silsoft A-843 or Silsoft A+ by Momentive.

g) and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the amino silicones of formula (B) are chosen from the amino silicones corresponding to the formula (E).

Preferably, composition C used in the context of the method according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone.

Preferably, composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone with the INCI name amodimethicone, preferably introduced in the form of an emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants.

Preferably, composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention comprises at least one amino silicone with INCI name amodimethicone in emulsion or microemulsion with surfactants with INCI name trideceth-5 and trideceth-10.

The amino silicone(s) can be present in a total amount varying from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 15%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10%, more preferably still from 0.2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may be aqueous. The water content can range from 1 to 70% by weight, preferably from 10 to 65% by weight, more preferably from 20 to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C.

Additives

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention may contain any adjuvant or additive usually used.

Among the additives likely to be contained in the composition, mention may be made of reducing agents, softeners, anti-foaming agents, moisturizing agents, UV filters, peptizers, perfumes, anionic or cationic surfactants, nonionic or amphoteric, proteins, vitamins, preservatives, oils and mixtures thereof.

Composition C used in the context of the process according to the invention can be in particular in the form of a suspension, dispersion, gel, emulsion, in particular oil-in-water (O/W) or water-in-oil emulsion. (W/O), or multiple (W/O/W or polyol/O/W or O/W/O), in the form of cream, mousse, stick, dispersion of vesicles, in particular of ionic or non-ionic lipids, biphase or multiphase lotion.

The person skilled in the art will be able to choose the appropriate galenic form, as well as its method of preparation, on the basis of his general knowledge, taking into account on the one hand the nature of the constituents used, in particular their solubility in the support, and on the other hand of the intended application for the composition.

Application of composition D

The hair coloring process according to the invention may also comprise the application to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group.

Preferably, the silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group is a silicone compound different from the silicone acrylic copolymer and the amino silicone as described above.

The term "carboxylic group" means a COOH or COO ^- functional group, the counter-ion of the COO ^- group being able to be chosen from alkali metals, alkaline-earth metals, quaternary ammoniums.

The silicones that can be used can be soluble or insoluble in composition D; they can be in the form of oil, wax, resin or gum; silicone oils and gums are preferred.

Silicones are in particular described in detail in Walter NOLL's work "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press.

Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVII) below:

(XXVII)

in which :
- R1 independently represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an alkoxy group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- R2 independently represents an R4-COOM group with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the atom of sulfur, the nitrogen atom, the oxygen atom and their mixtures, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′3, with identical or different R′ representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; a pyrrolidone radical comprising a carboxylic group COOH or a Ra-(ORb)x-COOM group with Ra representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, Rb representing an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 atoms carbon, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with identical or different R′ representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- R3 independently represent an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a hydroxy group; an R4-COOM group with R4 representing a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, oxygen atom and mixtures thereof, and M representing a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with identical or different R′ representing H or alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an aryl group having from 6 to 12 carbon atoms or an R _a -(OR _b ) _x -COOM group with R _a representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R _b representing a group alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200; and M representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with identical or different R′ representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- p denotes an integer ranging from 0 to 1000;
it being understood that at least one of the radicals R2 and/or R3 comprises a carboxylic group COOH or COOM with M representing an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with R′ identical or different, representing H or a alkyl having 1 to 4 carbon atoms.

In particular, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group can be chosen from the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII) below:

(XXVIII),

in which :
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferentially methyl;
- R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or else a divalent group R _a -(OR _b ) _x - with R _a representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R _b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with R′ identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;

- the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXIX):

(XXIX),

in which :
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, more preferably a methyl;
- R4 represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen atom, oxygen atom and their mixtures; or else a divalent group R _a -(OR _b ) _x - with R _a representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R _b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- M represents a hydrogen atom; an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR' ₃ , with identical or different R' , representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- p denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;

- the organosiloxanes of the following formula (XXX):

(XXX)

in which :
- R1 independently represents an alkyl group having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms, even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferentially methyl;
- R4 represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from sulfur atom, nitrogen atom , the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or else a divalent group R _a -(OR _b ) _x - with R _a representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R _b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- R3 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms; an alkoxy group having 1 to 20 carbon atoms or an aryl group having 6 to 12 carbon atoms;
- M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with R′ identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;

- the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI) below:

(XXXI)

in which :
- R8 represents an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl;
- m denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000;
- n designates an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.

-and mixtures thereof.

Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a carboxy terminal function such as the compounds sold by the company Momentive under the trade name SILFORM INX (INCI name: Bis-Carboxydecyl dimethicone).

Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXIX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a pendent carboxy function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3701E.

Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXX), mention may be made of polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a carboxy terminal function such as the compounds sold by the company Shin Etsu under the trade name X-22-3710.

Among the organosiloxanes of formula (XXXI), mention may be made of the compounds sold by the company Grant Industries under the trade name Grandsil SiW-PCA-10 (INCI name: Dimethicone (and) PCA Dimethicone (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Decyl Glucoside ).

The silicone compounds comprising a carboxylic group can for example correspond to the compounds described in patent application EP186507 in the name of Chisso Corporation introduced here by reference.

Preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXVIII), organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXIX) and mixtures thereof.

More preferably, the silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group are chosen from the organopolysiloxanes of formula (XXVIII) below:

(XXVIII)

in which :

- R1 independently represents an alkyl group, linear or branched, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 1 to 10 carbon atoms even better from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; preferentially methyl;
- R4 independently represents a linear or branched alkylene group, having from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 4 to 16 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom chosen from the sulfur atom, the nitrogen, the oxygen atom and their mixtures; or else a divalent group R _a -(OR _b ) _x - with R _a representing a linear or branched alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, R _b representing an alkylene group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and x being an integer ranging from 1 to 200;
- M independently represents a hydrogen atom, an alkali or alkaline-earth metal or a quaternary ammonium NR′ ₃ , with R′ identical or different, representing H or an alkyl having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms;
- n designates an integer ranging from 1 to 1000.

Advantageously, the total amount of silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.

Oils

Composition D may comprise one or more oil(s).

Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s). More preferentially, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from alkanes.

By “ oil ”, is meant a fatty substance that is liquid at ambient temperature (25° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg or 1.013 10 5 Pa).

The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

By “ volatile oil ”, is meant an oil capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, liquid at room temperature. More specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate of between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm ² /min, limits included (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).

By “ non-volatile oil ”, is meant an oil remaining on the skin or the keratin fiber at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. More specifically, a non-volatile oil has an evaporation rate strictly lower than 0.01 mg/cm2/min (see protocol for measuring the evaporation rate indicated in the text below).

Preferably, the composition comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes and/or mixtures thereof.

As regards the C ₆ -C ₁₆ alkanes, the latter can be linear, branched, possibly cyclic.

Mention may in particular be made of branched C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ -C ₁₆ iso-alkanes (also called isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, the oils sold under the names commercial Isopars or Permetyls, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of linear alkanes, preferably of plant origin, comprising from 7 to 15 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 14 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 11 to 13 carbon atoms.

By way of example of a linear alkane suitable for the invention, mention may be made of n-heptane (C7), n-octane (C8), n-nonane (C9), n-decane (C10), n-undecane (C11), n-dodecane (C12), n-tridecane (C13), n-tetradecane (C14), -pentadecane (C15), and mixtures thereof, and in particular the mixture of n -undecane (C11) and n-tridecane (C13) described in example 1 of application WO2008/155059 from Cognis.

Mention may also be made of n-dodecane (C12) and n-tetradecane (C14) sold by Sasol respectively under the references PARAFOL 12-97 and PARAFOL 14-97, as well as their mixtures.

By way of example of alkanes suitable for the invention, mention may be made of the alkanes described in patent applications WO 2007/068371 and WO2008/155059. These alkanes are obtained from fatty alcohols, themselves obtained from copra or palm oil.

According to a particular embodiment, the composition comprises isododecane. Such a compound is for example isododecane sold under the reference ISODODECANE by INEOS.

Preferably, composition D comprises one or more oil(s) chosen from C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and/or mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, composition D comprises isododecane.

Composition D may comprise one or more oils present in a total amount of between 30% and 99% by weight, preferably between 50% and 99% by weight, better still between 70% and 99% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D.

Composition D may comprise at least at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof as described above.

Protocol

Composition C and optional composition D described above can be applied to dry or damp hair, as well as to all types of hair, light or dark, natural or colored, permed, bleached or straightened.

According to a preferred embodiment, composition C and optional composition D are applied simultaneously to the keratin fibres.

According to another preferred embodiment, the optional composition D is applied to the hair after the application of the composition C to the hair.

According to another preferred embodiment, optional composition D is applied to the hair before applying composition C to the hair.

More preferentially, composition D is applied to the hair after the application of composition C to the hair.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the hair is washed before application of composition C and of composition D.

Preferably, a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying is implemented after the application of composition C to the hair and optionally before the application of composition D to the hair.

More preferably, a drying step is implemented after the application of composition C to the hair and optionally before the application of any composition D to the hair.

The application to the hair can be carried out by any conventional means, in particular by means of a comb, a brush, a brush, a sponge or the fingers.

The application of composition C and/or of composition C followed by any composition D to the hair is generally carried out at room temperature (between 15 to 25° C.).

After application of composition C to the hair, it is possible to wait between 1 minute and 6 hours, in particular between 1 minute and 2 hours, more particularly between 1 minute and 1 hour, more preferably between 1 minute and 30 minutes, before for example the application of composition D to the hair or, for example, a washing, rinsing, spin-drying or drying step.

Preferably, there is no leave-in time after the application of composition C to the hair and before the application of any composition D to the hair.

After the application of composition C and/or of composition C followed by any composition D, the hair can be left to dry or dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30° C.

The method according to the invention may thus comprise a step of applying heat to the keratin fibers using a heating tool.

The heat application step of the process of the invention can be implemented using a helmet, a hair dryer, a straightening or curling iron, a climazon, etc.

Preferably, the heat application step of the method of the invention is implemented using a hair dryer.

When the method of the invention implements a step of applying heat to the hair, the step of applying heat to the hair takes place after the application of composition C and of composition D, if any, on the hair. hair.

During the step of applying heat to the hair, a mechanical action can be exerted on the locks, such as combing, brushing, passing the fingers.

When the step of applying heat to the hair is implemented using a helmet or a hair dryer, the temperature is preferably between 30 and 110° C., preferentially between 50 and 90 °C.

When the step of applying heat to the hair is implemented using a straightening iron, the temperature is preferably between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

In a particular variant, the method of the invention implements a step (c1) of applying heat using a helmet, a hair dryer or a climazon, preferably a hair dryer and a step (c2) of applying heat using a straightening or curling iron, preferably a straightening iron.

Step (c1) can be performed before step (c2).

During step (c1), also called the drying step, the hair can be dried, for example at a temperature greater than or equal to 30°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 40°C. According to a particular embodiment, this temperature is greater than 45°C and less than 110°C.

Preferably, if the hair is dried, it is, in addition to a supply of heat, with a flow of air. This flow of air during drying improves the individualization of the sheathing.

During drying, a mechanical action on the locks can be exerted such as combing, brushing, the passage of the fingers.

During step (c2), the passage of the straightening or curling iron, preferably the straightening iron, can be carried out at a temperature ranging from 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

After the heating step, a shaping step can be implemented with, for example, a straightening iron, the temperature for the shaping step is between 110 and 220°C, preferably between 140 and 200°C.

Preferably, the invention is a hair coloring process comprising the following steps:
i) the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
- one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as described above,

- one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as described above;

- at least two compounds having the following Hansen's d solubility parameters:

d _h ranging from 5 to 40 MPa ^1/2 and

d _p ranging from 4 to 14 MPa ^1/2 ; And
- one or more coloring agent(s) chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof; Then
ii) optionally a leave-in time for said composition C on the hair from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 20 minutes; Then
iii) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying said hair, then

iv) optionally the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above; Then
v) optionally a leave-in time for said composition D on the hair from 1 minute to 30 minutes, preferably from 1 to 20 minutes; Then
vi) optionally a step of washing, rinsing, spinning or drying the hair.

Preferably, composition C also comprises at least one amino silicone and/or at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent, as described above.

Advantageously, the coloring process comprises step iv) of application to the hair of a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above.

Preferably, the step of applying composition C to the hair is repeated several times.

According to a preferred embodiment, the coloring process according to the invention is a hair coloring process consisting in mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and in applying composition C on the hair, with:
- Composition A comprising one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as described above;
- composition B comprising one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as described above, and at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as described above,

composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof;
composition A and/or composition B optionally comprising at least one amino silicone as described above and/or at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as described above.

Advantageously, the coloring process further comprises the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above, said composition D being applied to the hair before and/or or after applying composition C to the hair.

Preferably, composition B comprises at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, composition A does not comprise at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof.

According to this embodiment, compositions A and B are preferably mixed less than 15 minutes before application to the hair, more preferably less than 10 minutes before application, better still less than 5 minutes before application.

The weight ratio between composition A and composition B preferably ranges from 0.1 to 10, preferably from 0.2 to 5, better still from 0.5 to 2, or even from 0.6 to 1.5. In a particular embodiment, the weight ratio between composition A and composition B is equal to 1.

According to a particular embodiment, the hair coloring process according to the invention is a hair coloring process consisting in mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C, and in applying composition C on the hair, with:
- composition A comprising one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as described above; And
- composition B comprising one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as described above, at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as described above, and at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof;
composition A and/or composition B optionally comprising at least one amino silicone as described above and/or at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as described above, and
- the application to the hair of at least one composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above, said composition D being applied to the hair before and/or after application of the composition C on the hair.

Preferably, composition A optionally comprises at least one amino silicone as described above.

More preferably, composition A comprises at least one amino silicone as described above.

Preferably, composition A optionally comprises at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as described previously.

More preferentially, composition A comprises at least at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as described above.

Preferably, composition B does not comprise at least one amino silicone as described above.

Preferably, composition B does not include at least one non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent as described previously.

The total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound or compounds preferably ranges from 0.01 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 20% by weight, even more preferably from 1 to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

The total amount of silicone acrylic copolymer(s) preferably ranges from 2 to 60% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 40% by weight, better still from 5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

The total quantity of compounds having the Hansen solubility parameters d as defined above ranges from 1 to 60% by weight, preferably from 2 to 50% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 45% by weight, better from 10 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of composition B.

The amine silicone(s) may be present in a total amount varying from 0.01% to 20%, preferably from 0.05 to 15%, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% , more preferably still from 0.5 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition A.

The non-carboxylic anionic thickening agent(s) may be present in a total amount varying from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight. weight, better still from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and better still from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition A.

Multi-compartment device (kit)

The present invention also relates to a device for coloring hair comprising one or more compartments containing:
- in a first compartment, a composition C comprising:
a) one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as described above,
b) one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as described above,
c) at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as described above, and
d) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and
- optionally in a second compartment, a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above.

The present invention also relates to a device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing:
- in a first compartment, a composition A comprising:
a) one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as described above,

-in a second compartment, a composition B comprising:
b) one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as described above, and
c) at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as described above, and

composition A and/or composition B comprising:
d) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and
- optionally in a third compartment, a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as described above.

The present invention will now be described more specifically by means of examples, which are in no way limiting of the scope of the invention. However, the examples support specific features, variations, and preferred embodiments of the invention.

EXAMPLES

The (poly)carbodiimide(s) of the invention are accessible by synthetic methods known to those skilled in the art from commercial products or from reactants that can be synthesized according to chemical reactions also known to those skilled in the art. Mention may be made, for example, of the work Sciences of Synthesis – Houben – Weyl Methods of Molecular Transformations, 2005, Georg Thiem Verlag Kg, Rudigerstrasse 14, D-70469 Stuttgart, or the American patent US 4,284,730 or the Canadian application CA 2 509 861.

More particularly, the process for preparing the (poly)carbodiimides of the invention uses, in a first step, a diisocyanate reagent (1):
O=C=NL ₁ -N=C=O (1),
formula (1) in which L ₁ is as defined above which reacts in the presence of a carboimidation catalyst (2) such as those described in US Pat. preferably under an inert atmosphere (nitrogen or Argon), and in particular in a preferably aprotic polar solvent such as THF, glyme, diglyme, 1,4-dioxane, and DMF, at a temperature between room temperature and reflux solvent, preferably around 140°C; to lead to the carbodiimide diisocyanate compound (3):
O=C=NL ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -N=C=O (3),
formula (3) in which L ₁ and n are as defined previously. Benzoyl halogen such as benzoyl chloride can be added to deactivate the catalyst.

To obtain “symmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second stage of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H, then 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent with R ₁ , X ₁ and E as defined previously, to lead to the “symmetrical” compound according to the invention (4):
[R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -NH-C(O)] ₂ -E (4),
formula (4) in which R ₁ , X ₁ , L ₁ , n, and E are as defined previously. According to a variant to obtain the compound (4) from (3) it is possible to add first 0.5 eq. of HEH reagent, then 1 eq. of reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H.

To obtain “dissymmetrical” (poly)carbodiimides, during the second step of the preparation process, compound (3) reacts with 1 molar equivalent (1 eq) of nucleophilic reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H then 1 eq. of HEH reagent with R ₁ , X ₁ and E as defined above, to yield compound (5):
R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -NH-C(O)-EH (5),
formula (5) in which R ₁ , X ₁ , L ₁ , n, and E are as defined above.

According to a variant to obtain the compound (5) from (3) it is possible to add first 1 eq. of reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H, then 0.5 eq. of HHE reagent.

During a third step, compound (5) reacts with 1 eq. compound (6)
R ₂ -X ₂ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z -N=C=O (6), said compound (6) is prepared beforehand from compound (3 '):
O=C=NL ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z -N=C=O (3'),

formula (3’) in which L₁and z are as previously defined which reacts with 1 eq of nucleophilic reagent R₂-X₂-H with L₁, R₂, X₂, and z as defined previously, to lead to the asymmetrical compound (7):
R₁-X₁-C(O)-NH-L₁-(N=C=N-L₁)_not-NH-C(O)-E-C(O)-NH-L₁--(N=C=N-L₁)_z-NH-C(O)-X₂-R₂(7),

Formula (7) in which R ₁ , X ₁ , L ₁ , R ₂ , X ₂ , n, z and E are as defined above.

It is also possible to react 1 molar equivalent of compound O=C=NL ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z -N=C=O (3') with 1/w molar equivalent of HEH, then 1 eq . of nucleophilic reagent R ₂ -X ₂ -H to yield compound (8):
H-[EC(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z ] _w -NH-C(O)-X ₂ -R ₂ (8),

formula (8) in which L ₁ , R ₂ , X ₂ , z and E are as defined above, and w is an integer between 1 and 3, more preferably w = 1.

This last compound (8) can then react with 1 eq of compound (4'):
R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -N=C=O (4'), (said compound (4') being able to be synthesized by reaction of 0 .5 eq of nucleophilic reagent R ₁ -X ₁ -H with 1 equivalent of compound (3)), to yield the (poly)carbodiimide of the invention (9):
R ₁ -X ₁ -C(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _n -NH-C(O)-[EC(O)-NH-L ₁ -(N=C=NL ₁ ) _z ] _w -NH C(O)-X ₂ -R ₂ (9),
formula (9) in which L ₁ , R ₁ , X ₁ , R ₂ , X ₂ , n, z, w, and E are as defined previously.

The (poly)carbodiimide compounds, like all the reaction intermediates and reagents, can be purified using standard methods known to those skilled in the art, such as extraction with water and an organic solvent immiscible in water, precipitation, centrifugation, filtration, and/or chromatography.

Example 1: Process for the synthesis of the (poly)carbodiimide compound

In a 500 mL three-necked flask equipped with a thermometer, a stirrer and a reflux tube, 50 g of dicyclohexylmethane 4,4'-diisocyanate and 0.5 g of 4,5-dihydro-3-methyl -1-phenyl-1H-phosphole 1-oxide were introduced with stirring.

The reaction medium was heated at 140° C. under nitrogen for 4 hours, following the reaction by infrared spectroscopy through the absorption of the isocyanate functions between 2200 and 2300 cm ^-1 , then cooled to 120° C.

A mixture of 5.3 g of polyethylene glycol monomethyl ether and 1.2 g of 1,4-butanediol is introduced into the reaction medium with stirring. The temperature of 120° C. is maintained until the total disappearance of the isocyanate functions, monitored by infrared spectroscopy at 2200-2300 cm ^-1 , then cooled to room temperature.

After cooling to room temperature, the reaction medium is poured drop by drop with vigorous stirring into a 500 mL glass beaker containing 85 g of distilled water to yield the desired product in the form of a translucent yellow liquid.

Example 2

Compositions A, B, C, D and E as described below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of starting material as it is/100g, unless otherwise stated, in Table 1 below.

Compositions AT B VS D E Crotonic acid/ vinyl C ₈ -C ₁₂ isoalkyl esters/VA/Bis-vinyldimethicone crosspolymer ⁽¹⁾ 24 24 24 24 24 Ethanol 9 9 9 9 9 alkaline agent 1 1 1 1 1 Hexylene glycol - - - 36 9.2 Glycerin - - 36 - - Methylpropanediol - - - - 8.8 Dipropylene glycol - - - - 6.8 Isododecane - 36 - - - Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

(1) sold by Wacker Chemie AG under the trade name Belsil® P1101 (50% active ingredient in ethanol)

Assessment of the disorder

The cloudiness of the compositions was observed after their preparation. The disorder was assessed visually by a trained panel of 5 people during a blind test during which a score from 1 to 5 was assigned (the result corresponds to an average of the scores assigned), according to the scale following notation as described in Table 2:

trouble note Aspect 1 crystal clear 1.5 Very very slightly opalescent 2 Slightly opalescent 2.5 Medium opalescent 3 Opalescent 4 Translucent 4.5 Milky 5 Trouble

The results obtained are collated in Table 3 below:

Compositions AT B VS D E Disorder scoring 4.5 5 2.5 1 1.5

It has been observed that the compositions comprising at least two compounds having the following Hansen d solubility parameters: d _h ranging from 5 to 40 MPa ^1/2 and d _p ranging from 4 to 14 MPa ^1/2 , i.e. that is to say at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters according to the invention, exhibited a haze score strictly less than 2.5.

Thus, the solubility of the compositions comprising at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters according to the invention is very satisfactory in an aqueous medium. In other words, the compositions comprising at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters according to the invention make it possible to have good solubility of the silicone acrylic copolymer.

Example 3

Compositions F, G1, G2 and G3 as described below were prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as it is/100g, unless otherwise stated. In Table 4 below, "ma" means active ingredient.

Composition F Polycarbodiimide ⁽²⁾ 24 Hydroxyethyl acrylate/sodium acryloyldimethyl taurate copolymer ⁽³⁾ 0.9 my Amodimethicone (and) Trideceth-5 (and) Trideceth-10 ⁽⁴⁾ 5 Curator(s) qs Water Qsp 100

(2) synthesized according to the synthesis process described in Example 1 (at 40% active ingredient in water),

(3) sold by SEPPIC under the name SEPINOV EMT10,
(4) sold by WACKER under the name BELSIL ADM LOG 1 (at 15% active ingredient)

Compositions G1 G2 G3 Crotonic Acid/Vinyl C8-12 Isoalkyl Esters/VA/Bis-Vinyldimethicone Crosspolymer ⁽¹⁾ 24 24 24 Ethanol 9 9 9 alkaline agent 1 1 1 Hexylene glycol - 10 4 Dipropylene glycol - - 8 Methylpropanediol - - 9.8 Hydroethylcellulose 0.5 0.5 0.5 Thickening 1.5 1.5 1.5 Red iron oxide (CI 77491) 12 12 12 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100

Three mixtures are then made. Composition F is mixed with each of compositions G1, G2 and G3 at a 50/50 mass ratio to obtain three compositions H1, H2 and H3.

Thus, the process implementing composition H1 is a comparative process. The processes implementing the compositions H2 and H3 are processes according to the invention.

Then, composition I as described below was prepared: the quantities are expressed in g of raw material as it is/100g.

Composition I Organopolysiloxane with carboxyl group ⁽⁵⁾ 2 Isododecane qsp 100

(5) Silform INX sold by Momentive Performance Materials

Protocol

Each of the compositions H1, H2 and H3 is applied to locks of 90% white natural dry hair, at the rate of 0.8 g of composition per gram of lock. The locks of hair are then disentangled and dried with a hair dryer, then combed.

Then, composition I is applied to said locks of hair previously treated with compositions H1, H2 and H3, at the rate of 0.5 g of composition per gram of lock.

The locks of hair are then dried using a hair dryer at medium heat, then stored at a temperature of 22°C and a humidity of 35% for 24 hours.

The locks of hair thus colored are then subjected to a test of several repeated shampoos so as to evaluate the tenacity (remanence) of the coloring obtained with the shampoos, according to the shampoo protocol described below.

Shampoo protocol:

The strands of colored hair are combed, moistened under water at 35°C before being passed between the fingers 5 times for 5 seconds. The locks of hair are then wrung out between two fingers.

A standard shampoo (Garnier Ultra Doux) is applied evenly to the colored locks at the rate of 0.4 g of standard shampoo per gram of locks, gently kneading the locks of hair lengthwise (6 passes) for 15 seconds, root to tip.

The locks of hair are then placed in a watch glass and left to rest for 1 minute.

Then, the locks of hair are rinsed with water by passing the lock between the fingers (15 passages). The locks of hair are then wrung out between two fingers before the next shampoo.

After the proofs of several shampoos are carried out, the strands of hair are combed and dried with a hair dryer.

Results

The persistence of the color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L*a*b* system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM3600A colorimeter (illuminant D65, angle 10°, specular component included).

In this L*a*b* system, L* represents the intensity of the color, a* indicates the green/red color axis and b* the blue/yellow color axis.

The persistence of the coloring is evaluated by the difference in color ΔE between the colored locks before shampoo, then after having undergone 5 shampoos according to the protocol described above. The lower the value of ΔE, the more the color persists to shampoos.

The value of ΔE is calculated according to the following equation:

In this equation, L*a*b* represent the values measured after coloring the hair and after having undergone shampoos, and L ₀ *a ₀ *b ₀ * represent the values measured after coloring the hair but before shampooing.

Processes Number of shampoos I* To* b* ΔE H1 + I (comparative) 0 34.2 28.1 22.0 - 5 43.9 22.1 18.3 12.0 H2 + I (invention) 0 34.7 29.9 23.6 - 5 38.5 28.6 22.3 4.2 H3 + I (invention) 0 34.5 28.1 22.2 - 5 36.3 27.5 21.1 2.2

The locks of hair treated with the methods according to the invention and washed with five shampoos exhibit lower ΔE values than those of the locks of hair treated with the comparative method.

Thus, the colored coating obtained with the methods according to the invention has an improved remanence to shampoos.

Claims (22)

Hair coloring process comprising the application to the hair of at least one composition C comprising:
- one or more (poly)carbodiimide compounds;
- one or more silicone acrylic copolymers;
- at least two compounds having the following Hansen's d solubility parameters:
d_hranging from 5 to 40 MPa^1/2And
d_pranging from 4 to 14 MPa^1/2 ; And
- at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (I) below:
(I)
in which :
- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a group chosen from a hydrocarbon radical, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), a group chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl groups , carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acylpentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth)acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane, and a hydrocarbon radical é, preferably alkyl, optionally interrupted by one or several heteroatom(s) and by one or more groups chosen from alkoxysilyl, hydroxysilyl, acetoxysilyl, vinylsilyl, acrylalkylsilyl, methacrylalkylsilyl, crotonylalkylsilyl, carboxyanhydridoalkylsilyl, carboxyalkylsilyl, hydroxyalkylsilyl, aldehydoalkylsilyl, mercaptoalkylsilyl, norbornenylsilyl, acyl groups pentadienylalkylsilyl, maleimidoalkylsilyl, sulphonylalkylsilyl, (meth) acrylalkyl, crotonylalkyl, alkylepoxide such as propylepoxide or butylepoxide, and azacyclopropane;
- n denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 1000; And
- A is a monomer chosen from the compounds below:
. Process according to Claim 1, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) below:
(II),
in which
- X ₁ and X ₂ represent, independently, an oxygen atom O, a sulfur atom S or an NH group;
- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z≥2 and w denotes an integer ranging from 1 to 3;
- L ₁ independently represents a C ₁ -C ₁₈ divalent aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and their mixtures;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
-OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -,
in which R ₃ and R ₄ independently represent a divalent hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
- R ₅ independently represents a covalent bond or a divalent saturated hydrocarbon radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s);
- R ₆ independently represents a hydrogen atom, or a hydrocarbon radical optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s). Process according to Claim 3, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R ₁ and R ₂ are chosen independently from dialkylamino alcohols, alkyl esters of hydroxycarboxylic acid and monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed, and mixtures thereof;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;
- L1 is chosen from a divalent C ₁ -C ₁₈ aliphatic hydrocarbon radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ heterocycloalkylene group, or a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene group, and their mixtures;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
- -OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;
in which R3 and R4 are chosen independently from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms ( s), and mixtures thereof;
- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; And
- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and their mixtures. Process according to Claim 3 or 4, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R ₁ and R ₂ are independently monoalkyl ethers of (poly)alkylene glycol, in which a hydroxy group has been removed;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 1 to 20, with n+z ≥ 2 and w is equal to 1;
- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical;
- E independently represents a group chosen from:
-OR ₃ -O-; -SR ₄ -S-; -R ₅ -N(R ₆ )-R ₄ -N(R ₆ )-R ₅ -;
in which R ₃ and R ₄ are chosen independently from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof;
- when R ₅ is not a covalent bond, R ₅ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof; And
- R ₆ is chosen from a C ₆ -C ₁₄ arylene radical, a C ₃ -C ₁₂ cycloalkylene radical, a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and their mixtures. Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 5, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
-X₁ and X₂independently represent an oxygen atom;
-R₁and R₂, independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:
R₁₃-[O-CH₂-C(H)(R)₁₄)]_q- (VI),
in which R₁₃represents a C-alkyl group₁-VS₄or phenyl, preferably C-alkyl₁-VS₄, more preferably a methyl, R₁₄represents a hydrogen atom or a C-alkyl group₁-VS₄, preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10 and w is equal to 1;
- I₁is a C cycloalkylene radical₃-VS₁₅such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, and
- E represents an -O-R group₃-O- in which R₃is selected from a C arylene radical₆-VS₁₄, a C cycloalkylene radical₃-VS₁₂, a linear or branched C alkylene radical₁-VS₁₈, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 6, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (II) in which:
- X ₁ and X ₂ independently represent an oxygen atom;
- R ₁ and R ₂ independently represent the compound of formula (VI) below:
R ₁₃ -[O-CH ₂ -C(H)(R ₁₄ )] _q - (VI),
in which R ₁₃ represents a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group or a phenyl, preferably a C ₁ -C ₄ alkyl group, more preferably a methyl, R ₁₄ represents a hydrogen atom or a C ₁ alkyl group -C ₄ , preferably a hydrogen atom and q denotes an integer ranging from 4 to 30;
- n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, and w is equal to 1;
- L ₁ is a C ₃ -C ₁₅ cycloalkylene radical such as cyclopentylene, cycloheptylene, cyclohexylene and 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, preferably 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane; And
- E represents an -OR ₃ -O- group in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene, ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s) . Process according to any one of Claims 3 to 7, characterized in that the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) is (are) chosen from the compounds of formula (XII) below:
(XII),
in which L ₁ is 4,4-dicyclohexylene methane, n and z denote an integer ranging from 2 to 20, with n+z ranging from 4 to 10, E represents a -OR ₃ -O- group in which R ₃ represents a linear or branched C ₁ -C ₁₈ alkylene radical such as methylene, propylene, butylene ethylene, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatom(s), and r and s denote an integer ranging from 4 to 30. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of the (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight , more preferably from 0.2 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 8% by weight, better still from 1 to 6% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one acrylic or methacrylic or crotonic pattern;
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one crotonic unit and at least one unit chosen from an alkyl crotonate unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms; a vinyl acetate unit; a vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms; and mixtures thereof; And
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the silicone acrylic copolymer(s) comprise:
- at least one crotonic unit, at least one vinyl acetate unit and at least one vinyl alkyl ester unit, the alkyl radical being a linear or branched, saturated radical containing from 2 to 18 carbon atoms, preferably from 6 to 16 carbon atoms ; And
- at least one polydimethylsiloxane unit comprising at least one polymerizable radical group comprising a vinyl group. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of silicone acrylic copolymer(s) ranges from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 1 to 15% by weight, better still from 2 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compounds have a d _h ranging from 10 to 35 MPa ^1/2 , preferably from 10 to 30 MPa ^1/2 , more preferably from 12 to 30 MPa ^{1/ 2} . Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said compounds have a d _p ranging from 5 to 13 MPa ^1/2 , preferably from 6 to 13 MPa ^1/2 . Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as defined in any one of the preceding claims ranges from 1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 2 to 40% by weight, more preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, better still from 10 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of composition C. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the total quantity of coloring agent(s) ranges from 0.001 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.005 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition C, preferably the coloring agent(s) are chosen from pigments. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises a step of applying to the hair a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group. Process according to Claim 18, characterized in that the total quantity of silicone compound(s) comprising at least one carboxylic group ranges from 0.01 to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight , more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight, better still from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition D. Process according to Claim 18 or 19, characterized in that composition D additionally comprises one or more oil(s), preferably chosen from C ₈ -C ₁₆ alkanes, more preferably from isododecane, isohexadecane, tetradecane and/or mixtures thereof. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 17, characterized in that it consists in mixing extemporaneously at the time of use at least two compositions A and B to obtain a composition C and in applying composition C to the hair, with :
- composition A comprising one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8;
- composition B comprising one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as defined in any one of claims 1 and 10 to 12, and at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as defined in any one of claims 1 and 14 to 15,
composition A and/or composition B comprising at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof. Device for coloring hair comprising several compartments containing:
- in a first compartment, a composition A comprising:
a) one or more (poly)carbodiimide compound(s) as defined in any one of claims 1 to 8;
- in a second compartment, a composition B comprising:
b) one or more silicone acrylic copolymers as defined in any one of claims 1 and 10 to 12, and
c) at least two compounds having Hansen's d solubility parameters as defined in any one of claims 1 and 14 to 15;
composition A and/or composition B comprising:
d) at least one coloring agent chosen from pigments, direct dyes, and mixtures thereof, and
- optionally in a third compartment, a composition D comprising at least one silicone compound comprising at least one carboxylic group as defined in claim 18 or 19.