FR3124381A1 - Process for lightening keratin fibers using a composition at basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds - Google Patents
Process for lightening keratin fibers using a composition at basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds Download PDFInfo
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- FR3124381A1 FR3124381A1 FR2106929A FR2106929A FR3124381A1 FR 3124381 A1 FR3124381 A1 FR 3124381A1 FR 2106929 A FR2106929 A FR 2106929A FR 2106929 A FR2106929 A FR 2106929A FR 3124381 A1 FR3124381 A1 FR 3124381A1
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- Prior art keywords
- composition
- chosen
- compounds
- formula
- lightening
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 59
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 29
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 28
- 150000002736 metal compounds Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 13
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 title claims description 22
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 9
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001735 carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000004677 hydrates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000012453 solvate Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 5
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zirconium Chemical compound [Zr] QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bicarbonate Chemical compound OC([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 3
- WPBNNNQJVZRUHP-UHFFFAOYSA-L manganese(2+);methyl n-[[2-(methoxycarbonylcarbamothioylamino)phenyl]carbamothioyl]carbamate;n-[2-(sulfidocarbothioylamino)ethyl]carbamodithioate Chemical compound [Mn+2].[S-]C(=S)NCCNC([S-])=S.COC(=O)NC(=S)NC1=CC=CC=C1NC(=S)NC(=O)OC WPBNNNQJVZRUHP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungsten Chemical compound [W] WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052721 tungsten Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000010937 tungsten Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Carbonate Chemical compound [O-]C([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Fluoride anion Chemical compound [F-] KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 2
- ZOKXTWBITQBERF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Molybdenum Chemical compound [Mo] ZOKXTWBITQBERF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010941 cobalt Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910017052 cobalt Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- GUTLYIVDDKVIGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cobalt atom Chemical compound [Co] GUTLYIVDDKVIGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen iodide Chemical compound I XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052500 inorganic mineral Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052741 iridium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iridium atom Chemical compound [Ir] GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011707 mineral Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052750 molybdenum Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011733 molybdenum Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052758 niobium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000010955 niobium Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- GUCVJGMIXFAOAE-UHFFFAOYSA-N niobium atom Chemical compound [Nb] GUCVJGMIXFAOAE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L persulfate group Chemical group S(=O)(=O)([O-])OOS(=O)(=O)[O-] JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 2
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052706 scandium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- SIXSYDAISGFNSX-UHFFFAOYSA-N scandium atom Chemical compound [Sc] SIXSYDAISGFNSX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052720 vanadium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- GPPXJZIENCGNKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N vanadium Chemical compound [V]#[V] GPPXJZIENCGNKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052727 yttrium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- VWQVUPCCIRVNHF-UHFFFAOYSA-N yttrium atom Chemical compound [Y] VWQVUPCCIRVNHF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 4
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 3
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 3
- 229910019977 (NH4)2ZrO Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 2
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims 2
- AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycolic acid Chemical compound OCC(O)=O AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 2
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims 2
- 239000003086 colorant Substances 0.000 claims 2
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 2
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N (S)-malic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003513 alkali Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 1
- 150000001342 alkaline earth metals Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims 1
- 229940061720 alpha hydroxy acid Drugs 0.000 claims 1
- 150000001280 alpha hydroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-hydroxysuccinic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002585 base Substances 0.000 claims 1
- -1 bromates alkali metals Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 150000001720 carbohydrates Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims 1
- 235000015165 citric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 239000001630 malic acid Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 235000011090 malic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- 150000002772 monosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 229920001542 oligosaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 150000002482 oligosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 150000004965 peroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 claims 1
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims 1
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 1
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 125000002924 primary amino group Chemical group [H]N([H])* 0.000 claims 1
- 239000004576 sand Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims 1
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 claims 1
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims 1
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims 1
- 238000004383 yellowing Methods 0.000 claims 1
- GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N bromochloroacetic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)C(Cl)Br GEHJBWKLJVFKPS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 abstract 1
- XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Melanin Chemical compound O=C1C(=O)C(C2=CNC3=C(C(C(=O)C4=C32)=O)C)=C2C4=CNC2=C1C XUMBMVFBXHLACL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 2
- 239000007844 bleaching agent Substances 0.000 description 2
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000000593 degrading effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000037308 hair color Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000011295 pitch Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Inorganic Chemistry (AREA)
- Emergency Medicine (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne un procédé d’éclaircissement des kératiniques comprenant une étape d’application d’une composition à pH basique comprenant un ou plusieurs composés métalliques particuliers.The present invention relates to a process for lightening keratins comprising a step of applying a composition at basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds.
Description
Domaine technique de l’inventionTechnical field of the invention
La présente invention concerne un procédé d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques comprenant une étape d’application d’une composition à pH basique comprenant un ou plusieurs composés métalliques particuliers.The present invention relates to a process for lightening keratin fibers comprising a step of applying a composition at basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds.
Contexte de l’inventionBackground of the invention
Lorsqu’une personne souhaite changer de couleur de cheveux, notamment lorsqu’elle souhaite obtenir une couleur plus claire que sa couleur d’origine, il est souvent nécessaire de procéder au préalable à un éclaircissement ou une décoloration des cheveux. Pour ce faire, on utilise des produits d’éclaircissement ou de décoloration.When a person wants to change their hair color, especially when they want to get a lighter color than their original color, it is often necessary to first lighten or bleach the hair. To do this, lightening or bleaching products are used.
L’éclaircissement des cheveux est évalué par la hauteur de ton qui caractérise le degré ou le niveau d’éclaircissement. La notion de « ton » repose sur la classification des nuances naturelles, un ton séparant chaque nuance de celle qui la suit ou la précède immédiatement. Cette définition et la classification des nuances naturelles est bien connue des professionnels de la coiffure et publiée dans l’ouvrage « Sciences des traitements capillaires » de Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, pp.215 et 278.The lightening of the hair is evaluated by the height of tone which characterizes the degree or level of lightening. The notion of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from that which immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and classification of natural shades is well known to hairdressing professionals and published in the book "Science of hair treatments" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, pp.215 and 278.
Les hauteurs de ton s’échelonnent de 1 (noir) à 10 (blond clair clair), une unité correspondant à un ton ; plus le chiffre est élevé et plus la nuance est claire.The pitches range from 1 (black) to 10 (light light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.
Il est connu d’éclaircir ou de décolorer les cheveux, avec des compositions éclaircissantes ou décolorantes contenant au moins un agent oxydant chimique, en condition de pH alcalin dans la grande majorité des cas. Cet agent oxydant a pour rôle de dégrader la mélanine des cheveux, ce qui, en fonction de la nature de l’agent oxydant présent et des conditions de pH, conduit à un éclaircissement plus ou moins prononcé des fibres. Ainsi, pour un éclaircissement relativement faible, l’agent oxydant est généralement le peroxyde d’hydrogène. Lorsqu’un éclaircissement plus important est recherché, notamment lorsque les cheveux traités sont foncés, on met habituellement en œuvre des persulfates en présence de peroxyde d’hydrogène. Cependant, l’éclaircissement obtenu par l’action d’une telle association n’est pas toujours satisfaisant car on obtient des cheveux avec des nuances jaune-orangé peu esthétiques qui s’éloignent des nuances naturelles, ce qui complique la coloration ultérieure en la limitant à l’obtention de tons chauds.It is known to lighten or bleach the hair, with lightening or bleaching compositions containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present and the pH conditions, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres. Thus, for relatively low lift, the oxidizing agent is usually hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, especially when the treated hair is dark, persulfates are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening obtained by the action of such a combination is not always satisfactory because one obtains hair with unattractive yellow-orange shades which deviate from the natural shades, which complicates subsequent coloring in the limiting to obtaining warm tones.
Ainsi, il existe un réel besoin de mettre au point un procédé d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques, notamment des fibres kératiniques foncées, permettant d’obtenir un niveau d’éclaircissement satisfaisant avec une diminution de la chromaticité des fibres éclaircies et un rendu moins jaune, donc plus naturel. Un tel procédé devra faire appel à des compositions faciles d’utilisation pouvant être éventuellement utilisées en association avec des compositions éclaircissantes disponibles commercialement.Thus, there is a real need to develop a process for lightening keratin fibers, in particular dark keratin fibers, making it possible to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening with a reduction in the chromaticity of the lightened fibers and a less yellow rendering. , so more natural. Such a process should make use of easy-to-use compositions that can optionally be used in combination with commercially available lightening compositions.
La demanderesse a découvert de manière surprenante que l’ensemble de ces objectifs peuvent être atteints par le procédé selon la présente invention.The applicant has surprisingly discovered that all of these objectives can be achieved by the process according to the present invention.
Selon un premier aspect, la présente invention a pour objet un procédé d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques comprenant l’étape i) ou les étapes i’) et i’’) suivantes :
i) application sur les fibres kératiniques d’une composition éclaircissante(A)à pH basique comprenant un ou plusieurs composés métalliquesC;
i’) application sur les fibres kératiniques d’une composition éclaircissante(A 1 ) ;
ii’) application sur les fibres kératiniques d’une composition(A 2 ) à pH basique comprenant un ou plusieurs composés métalliquesC ;
dans lequel :
▪ les compositions (A 1 ) et(A 2 ) sont différentes ;
▪ le ou les composés métalliquesCsont choisis parmi les composés de formule(I)suivante, leurs associations avec une ou plusieurs bases organiques ou minérales sous forme salifiée ou non, leurs solvates tels que les hydrates et leurs mélanges :
(M) n (L) p (I)
Formule(I)dans laquelle :
-M représente un métal choisi parmi le scandium, le titane, le vanadium, le manganèse, le fer, le cobalt, le nickel, l’yttrium, le zirconium, le niobium, le molybdène, le tungstène, et l’iridium ;
-Lidentiques ou différents sont choisis parmi :
a) les acides carboxyliques de formule(II) suivante :
Formule(II)dans laquelle :
○Treprésente un groupe hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, cyclique ou non cyclique, aromatique ou non aromatique, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyles et/ou amino ;
○qreprésente un nombre entier allant de 0 à 10, de préférence allant de 0 à 5, plus préférentiellement allant de 0 à 2 ;
b) les halogénures tels que le fluorure, le chlorure, le bromure et l’iodure, de préférence le chlorure ;
c) hydroxo (OH-) ;
d) oxo (O2-) ;
e) carbonate (CO3 2-) ;
f) bicarbonate (HCO3 -) ;
-ndésigne un nombre entier choisi parmi 1, 2, 3 ou 4, de préférence 1 ;
-pdésigne un nombre entier choisi parmi 1, 2, 3 ou 4 ;
-netpsont choisis de manière à garantir l’électroneutralité du ou des composés métalliquesC ;
▪ le ou les composés métalliquesCsont présents dans la composition(A)ou(A 2 ) en une teneur totale d’au moins 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition(A)ou(A 2 ) respectivement ;
▪ les étapes i’) et ii’) sont mises en œuvre simultanément ou séparément dans l’ordre i’) puis ii’) ou ii’) puis i’).According to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a process for lightening keratin fibers comprising step i) Or the following steps i') and i''):
i) application to the keratin fibers of a lightening composition(AT)at basic pH comprising one or more metal compoundsVS;
i') application to the keratin fibers of a lightening composition(AT 1 ) ;
ii') application to the keratin fibers of a composition(AT 2 ) at basic pH comprising one or more metal compoundsVS ;
in which :
▪ compositions (AT 1 ) And(AT 2 ) are different ;
▪ the metal compound(s)VSare chosen from the compounds of formula(I)following, their associations with one or more organic or mineral bases in salified form or not, their solvates such as hydrates and their mixtures:
(M) not (I) p (I)
Formula(I)in which :
-M represents a metal selected from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten, and iridium;
-Iidentical or different are chosen from:
a) the carboxylic acids of formula(II) next :
Formula(II)in which :
○Trepresents a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups;
○qrepresents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferably ranging from 0 to 2;
b) halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide, preferably chloride;
c) hydroxo (OH-);
d) oxo (O2-);
e) carbonate (CO3 2-);
f) bicarbonate (HCO3 -);
-notdenotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1;
-pdenotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4;
-notAndpare chosen in such a way as to guarantee the electroneutrality of the metal compound(s)VS ;
▪ the metal compound(s)VSare present in the composition(AT)Or(AT 2 ) in a total content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT)Or(AT 2 ) respectively ;
▪ steps i') and ii') are implemented simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i').
Selon un deuxième aspect, la présente invention a pour objet l’utilisation d’un ou plusieurs composés métalliquesCtels que définis précédemment pour le déjaunissement des fibres kératiniques éclaircies.According to a second aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of one or more metal compounds C as defined previously for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
Selon un troisième aspect, la présente invention a pour objet l’utilisation d’une composition(A 2 )telle que définie précédemment pour le déjaunissement des fibres kératiniques éclaircies.According to a third aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (A 2 ) as defined previously for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
Selon un quatrième aspect, la présente invention a pour objet l’utilisation d’une composition(A 2 )telle que définie précédemment en tant que composition de pré-traitement ou de post-traitement d’un procédé d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques, de préférence en tant que composition de post-traitement d’un procédé d’éclaircissement des fibres kératiniques.According to a fourth aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (A 2 ) as defined above as a pre-treatment or post-treatment composition for a process for lightening keratin fibres, preferably as a post-treatment composition for a keratin fiber lightening process.
Selon un cinquième aspect, la présente invention a pour objet l’utilisation d’une composition(A)telle que définie précédemment pour éclaircir les fibres kératiniques, de préférence pour éclaircir les fibres kératiniques tout en les déjaunissant.According to a fifth aspect, a subject of the present invention is the use of a composition (A) as defined above for lightening keratin fibers, preferably for lightening keratin fibers while removing yellowness from them.
Selon un sixième aspect, la présente invention a pour objet un kit de traitement des fibres kératiniques comprenant un premier compartiment renfermant une composition(A 1 ’ )comprenant du peroxyde d’hydrogène, un deuxième compartiment renfermant une composition(A 2 )telle que définie précédemment et éventuellement un troisième compartiment renfermant une composition( A 1 ’’ )comprenant un ou plusieurs sels peroxygénés.According to a sixth aspect, the subject of the present invention is a kit for treating keratin fibers comprising a first compartment containing a composition (A 1 ' ) comprising hydrogen peroxide, a second compartment containing a composition (A 2 ) as defined above and optionally a third compartment containing a composition ( A 1 '' ) comprising one or more peroxygen salts.
Claims (20)
i) application sur les fibres kératiniques d’une composition éclaircissante(A)à pH basique comprenant un ou plusieurs composés métalliquesC;
i’) application sur les fibres kératiniques d’une composition éclaircissante(A 1 ) ;
ii’) application sur les fibres kératiniques d’une composition(A 2 ) à pH basique comprenant un ou plusieurs composés métalliquesC ;
dans lequel :
▪ les compositions (A 1 ) et(A 2 ) sont différentes ;
▪ le ou les composés métalliquesCsont choisis parmi les composés de formule(I)suivante, leurs associations avec une ou plusieurs bases organiques ou minérales sous forme salifiée ou non, leurs solvates tels que les hydrates et leurs mélanges :
(M) n (L) p (I)
Formule(I)dans laquelle :
-M représente un métal choisi parmi le scandium, le titane, le vanadium, le manganèse, le fer, le cobalt, le nickel, l’yttrium, le zirconium, le niobium, le molybdène, le tungstène, et l’iridium ;
-Lidentiques ou différents sont choisis parmi :
a) les acides carboxyliques de formule(II) suivante :
Formule(II)dans laquelle :
○Treprésente un groupe hydrocarboné, saturé ou insaturé, cyclique ou non cyclique, aromatique ou non aromatique, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyles et/ou amino ;
○qreprésente un nombre entier allant de 0 à 10, de préférence allant de 0 à 5, plus préférentiellement allant de 0 à 2 ;
b) les halogénures tels que le fluorure, le chlorure, le bromure et l’iodure, de préférence le chlorure ;
c) hydroxo (OH-) ;
d) oxo (O2-) ;
e) carbonate (CO3 2-) ;
f) bicarbonate (HCO3 -);
-ndésigne un nombre entier choisi parmi 1, 2, 3 ou 4, de préférence 1 ;
-pdésigne un nombre entier choisi parmi 1, 2, 3 ou 4 ;
-netpsont choisis de manière à garantir l’électroneutralité du ou des composés métalliquesC ;
▪ le ou les composés métalliquesCsont présents dans la composition(A)ou(A 2 ) en une teneur totale d’au moins 5% en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition(A)ou(A 2 ) respectivement ;
▪ les étapes i’) et ii’) sont mises en œuvre simultanément ou séparément dans l’ordre i’) puis ii’) ou ii’) puis i’).Process for lightening keratin fibers comprising step i) Or the following steps i') and i''):
i) application to the keratin fibers of a lightening composition(AT)at basic pH comprising one or more metal compoundsVS;
i') application to the keratin fibers of a lightening composition(AT 1 ) ;
ii') application to the keratin fibers of a composition(AT 2 ) at basic pH comprising one or more metal compoundsVS ;
in which :
▪ compositions (AT 1 ) And(AT 2 ) are different ;
▪ the metal compound(s)VSare chosen from the compounds of formula(I)following, their associations with one or more organic or mineral bases in salified form or not, their solvates such as hydrates and mixtures thereof:
(M) not (I) p (I)
Formula(I)in which :
-M represents a metal selected from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten, and iridium;
-Iidentical or different are chosen from:
a) the carboxylic acids of formula(II) next :
Formula(II)in which :
○Trepresents a hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups;
○qrepresents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferably ranging from 0 to 2;
b) halides such as fluoride, chloride, bromide and iodide, preferably chloride;
c) hydroxo (OH-);
d) oxo (O2-);
e) carbonate (CO3 2-);
f) bicarbonate (HCO3 -);
-notdenotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1;
-pdenotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4;
-notAndpare chosen in such a way as to guarantee the electroneutrality of the metal compound(s)VS ;
▪ the metal compound(s)VSare present in the composition(AT)Or(AT 2 ) in a total content of at least 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition(AT)Or(AT 2 ) respectively ;
▪ steps i') and ii') are implemented simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i').
-Treprésente un groupe hydrocarboné comprenant de 1 à 50 atomes de carbone, saturé ou insaturé, cyclique ou non cyclique, aromatique ou non aromatique, éventuellement interrompu par un ou plusieurs hétéroatomes et/ou éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyles et/ou amino ;
-qreprésente un nombre entier allant de 0 à 10, de préférence allant de 0 à 5, plus préférentiellement allant de 0 à 2.Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of L is chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
- T represents a hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and/or amino;
- q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferably ranging from 0 to 2.
-Treprésente un groupe (C1-C6)alkyle ou (C1-C6)alkylène, éventuellement substitué par un ou plusieurs groupes hydroxyles et/ou amino ;
-qreprésente un nombre entier allant de 0 à 10, de préférence allant de 0 à 5, plus préférentiellement allant de 0 à 2 ;
de préférence au moins un desL représente l’acide acétique.A method according to any preceding claim, wherein at least one ofIis chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula(II)in which :
-Trepresents a group (C1-VS6)alkyl or (C1-VS6) alkylene, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups;
-qrepresents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferably ranging from 0 to 2;
preferably at least one ofI stands for acetic acid.
-Treprésente le résidu d’un glucide choisi parmi les monosaccharides, les oligosaccharides et les polysaccharides ;
-q = 0.A method according to any preceding claim, wherein at least one ofIis chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula(II)in which :
-Trepresents the residue of a carbohydrate chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides;
-q = 0.
- Zr(Cl)4;
- (CH3CO2)xZr(OH)yavec x+y= 4 ;
- Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- les composés de formule(III)suivante :
Zr(OH) r (Q 1 ) s (Q 2 ) u (III)
Formule(III)dans laquelle :
○Q 1 identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi CO3 2-ou HCO3 -;
○Q 2 identiques ou différents sont choisis parmi NH3ou NH4 +;
○rreprésente un nombre entier choisi parmi 1, 2 ou 3 ;
○sreprésente un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à 1 ;
○ureprésente un nombre entier supérieur ou égal à 1 ;
○r,setusont choisis de manière à garantir l’électroneutralité des composés de formule(III) ;
○ la sommer+s+uest égale à 6 ou 7 ;
- (NH4)2ZrO(CO3)2;
-;
- Ti(OH)2(CO3)2;
- les solvates de ces composés tels que les hydrates ;
- et leurs mélanges ;
de préférence parmi les composés suivants :
- Zr(Cl)4;
- (CH3CO2)xZr(OH)yavec x+y= 4 ;
- Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- (NH4)3Zr(OH)(CO3)3;
- (NH4)2ZrO(CO3)2;
-;
- Ti(OH)2(CO3)2;
- les solvates de ces composés tels que les hydrates ;
- et leurs mélanges ;
plus préférentiellement parmi les composés suivants :
- Zr(Cl)4;
- (CH3CO2)xZr(OH)yavec x+y= 4 ;
- (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- les solvates de ces composés tels que les hydrates ;
- et leurs mélanges.Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the metal compound(s)VSare chosen from the following compounds:
- Zr(Cl)4;
- (CH3CO2)xZr(OH)therewith x+y= 4;
- Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- the compounds of formula(III)next :
Zr(OH) r (Q 1 ) s (Q 2 ) a (III)
Formula(III)in which :
○Q 1 identical or different are chosen from CO3 2-or HCO3 -;
○Q 2 identical or different are chosen from NH3or NH4 +;
○rrepresents an integer chosen from 1, 2 or 3;
○srepresents an integer greater than or equal to 1;
○arepresents an integer greater than or equal to 1;
○r,sAndaare chosen so as to guarantee the electroneutrality of the compounds of formula(III) ;
○ the sumr+s+ais equal to 6 or 7;
- (NH4)2ZrO(CO3)2;
-;
- Ti(OH)2(CO3)2;
- the solvates of these compounds such as hydrates;
- and mixtures thereof;
preferably from the following compounds:
- Zr(Cl)4;
- (CH3CO2)xZr(OH)therewith x+y= 4;
- Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- (NH4)3Zr(OH)(CO3)3;
- (NH4)2ZrO(CO3)2;
-;
- Ti(OH)2(CO3)2;
- the solvates of these compounds such as hydrates;
- and mixtures thereof;
more preferably from the following compounds:
- Zr(Cl)4;
- (CH3CO2)xZr(OH)therewith x+y= 4;
- (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CO3)2;
- the solvates of these compounds such as hydrates;
- and mixtures thereof.
Priority Applications (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2106929A FR3124381B1 (en) | 2021-06-28 | 2021-06-28 | Process for lightening keratin fibers using a basic pH composition comprising one or more specific metal compounds |
| PCT/EP2022/067764 WO2023275070A1 (en) | 2021-06-28 | 2022-06-28 | Method for lightening keratin fibres employing a composition having a basic ph comprising one or more specific metal compounds |
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
| Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
|---|---|---|---|
| FR2106929A FR3124381B1 (en) | 2021-06-28 | 2021-06-28 | Process for lightening keratin fibers using a basic pH composition comprising one or more specific metal compounds |
| FR2106929 | 2021-06-28 |
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| Publication Number | Publication Date |
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| FR3124381A1 true FR3124381A1 (en) | 2022-12-30 |
| FR3124381B1 FR3124381B1 (en) | 2024-05-10 |
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| FR2106929A Active FR3124381B1 (en) | 2021-06-28 | 2021-06-28 | Process for lightening keratin fibers using a basic pH composition comprising one or more specific metal compounds |
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| Country | Link |
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| FR (1) | FR3124381B1 (en) |
| WO (1) | WO2023275070A1 (en) |
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| US5957140A (en) | 1998-11-19 | 1999-09-28 | Mcgee; Robert J. | Hair styling iron for straightening and curling |
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| WO2006106366A1 (en) * | 2005-04-06 | 2006-10-12 | The Boots Company Plc | Improved oxidative hair dyes and related topical compositions |
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| FR3037241A1 (en) * | 2015-06-12 | 2016-12-16 | Oreal | A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING A TITANIUM SALT, A COLOR, AND A PARTICULAR SOLVENT |
| FR3052053A1 (en) * | 2016-06-07 | 2017-12-08 | Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa |
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2021
- 2021-06-28 FR FR2106929A patent/FR3124381B1/en active Active
-
2022
- 2022-06-28 WO PCT/EP2022/067764 patent/WO2023275070A1/en active Application Filing
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| GB852777A (en) * | 1958-04-15 | 1960-11-02 | Lawrence Richard Bruce Inc | Improvements in composition for bleaching hair |
| FR2586913A1 (en) | 1985-09-10 | 1987-03-13 | Oreal | PROCESS FOR FORMING IN IN SITU A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF TWO PARTS CONDITIONED SEPARATELY AND DISPENSING ASSEMBLY FOR IMPLEMENTING SAID METHOD |
| US5046516A (en) | 1988-10-31 | 1991-09-10 | George Barradas | Hair curling iron |
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| WO2003047542A1 (en) * | 2001-12-05 | 2003-06-12 | Unilever Plc | Hair bleaching and colouring composition which comprise trasition metal catalysts |
| WO2006106366A1 (en) * | 2005-04-06 | 2006-10-12 | The Boots Company Plc | Improved oxidative hair dyes and related topical compositions |
| WO2011000892A2 (en) * | 2009-07-02 | 2011-01-06 | University Of Leeds | Catalysed dye systems |
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Also Published As
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| FR3124381B1 (en) | 2024-05-10 |
| WO2023275070A1 (en) | 2023-01-05 |
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