WO2023275070A1 - Method for lightening keratin fibres employing a composition having a basic ph comprising one or more specific metal compounds - Google Patents
Method for lightening keratin fibres employing a composition having a basic ph comprising one or more specific metal compounds Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- WO2023275070A1 WO2023275070A1 PCT/EP2022/067764 EP2022067764W WO2023275070A1 WO 2023275070 A1 WO2023275070 A1 WO 2023275070A1 EP 2022067764 W EP2022067764 W EP 2022067764W WO 2023275070 A1 WO2023275070 A1 WO 2023275070A1
- Authority
- WO
- WIPO (PCT)
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- chosen
- keratin fibres
- compounds
- ranging
- Prior art date
Links
- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 181
- 102000011782 Keratins Human genes 0.000 title claims abstract description 85
- 108010076876 Keratins Proteins 0.000 title claims abstract description 85
- 238000000034 method Methods 0.000 title claims abstract description 55
- 150000002736 metal compounds Chemical class 0.000 title claims abstract description 49
- XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N Iron Chemical compound [Fe] XEEYBQQBJWHFJM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 40
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 28
- MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO MHAJPDPJQMAIIY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 26
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonia Chemical compound N QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 23
- 229910052742 iron Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 20
- 238000010438 heat treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- 150000003839 salts Chemical class 0.000 claims description 16
- 238000011282 treatment Methods 0.000 claims description 16
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N water Substances O XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 16
- 239000007800 oxidant agent Substances 0.000 claims description 14
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims description 13
- 125000003118 aryl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 12
- 125000004122 cyclic group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 12
- 229910052751 metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000002184 metal Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000000126 substance Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 claims description 12
- 150000004677 hydrates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000007529 inorganic bases Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000007530 organic bases Chemical class 0.000 claims description 11
- 239000012453 solvate Substances 0.000 claims description 11
- 150000001735 carboxylic acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 10
- QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Acetic acid Chemical compound CC(O)=O QTBSBXVTEAMEQO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N citric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)CC(O)(C(O)=O)CC(O)=O KRKNYBCHXYNGOX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 9
- 125000002887 hydroxy group Chemical group [H]O* 0.000 claims description 9
- VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M Chloride anion Chemical compound [Cl-] VEXZGXHMUGYJMC-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 8
- PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nickel Chemical compound [Ni] PXHVJJICTQNCMI-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N Titanium Chemical compound [Ti] RTAQQCXQSZGOHL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Zirconium Chemical compound [Zr] QCWXUUIWCKQGHC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 125000003277 amino group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 8
- 229920006395 saturated elastomer Polymers 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 8
- 229910052783 alkali metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000000217 alkyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 7
- 125000005842 heteroatom Chemical group 0.000 claims description 7
- JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L persulfate group Chemical group S(=O)(=O)([O-])OOS(=O)(=O)[O-] JRKICGRDRMAZLK-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 7
- QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O Ammonium Chemical compound [NH4+] QGZKDVFQNNGYKY-UHFFFAOYSA-O 0.000 claims description 6
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bicarbonate Chemical compound OC([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 6
- -1 alkali metal bromates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000001340 alkali metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000002947 alkylene group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- 125000001183 hydrocarbyl group Chemical group 0.000 claims description 6
- JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N lactic acid Chemical compound CC(O)C(O)=O JVTAAEKCZFNVCJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 150000002772 monosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 6
- WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N tungsten Chemical compound [W] WFKWXMTUELFFGS-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
- 229910052721 tungsten Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 6
- 239000010937 tungsten Substances 0.000 claims description 6
- BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L Carbonate Chemical compound [O-]C([O-])=O BVKZGUZCCUSVTD-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 5
- 229910052784 alkaline earth metal Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 5
- 150000001342 alkaline earth metals Chemical class 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003638 chemical reducing agent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- 239000003960 organic solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 5
- CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M Bromide Chemical compound [Br-] CPELXLSAUQHCOX-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000004150 EU approved colour Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M Fluoride anion Chemical compound [F-] KRHYYFGTRYWZRS-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 claims description 4
- AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N Glycolic acid Chemical compound OCC(O)=O AEMRFAOFKBGASW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- ZOKXTWBITQBERF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Molybdenum Chemical compound [Mo] ZOKXTWBITQBERF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 125000004432 carbon atom Chemical group C* 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910017052 cobalt Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010941 cobalt Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- GUTLYIVDDKVIGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N cobalt atom Chemical compound [Co] GUTLYIVDDKVIGB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 150000004820 halides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 4
- XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N hydrogen iodide Chemical compound I XMBWDFGMSWQBCA-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052741 iridium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N iridium atom Chemical compound [Ir] GKOZUEZYRPOHIO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- WPBNNNQJVZRUHP-UHFFFAOYSA-L manganese(2+);methyl n-[[2-(methoxycarbonylcarbamothioylamino)phenyl]carbamothioyl]carbamate;n-[2-(sulfidocarbothioylamino)ethyl]carbamodithioate Chemical compound [Mn+2].[S-]C(=S)NCCNC([S-])=S.COC(=O)NC(=S)NC1=CC=CC=C1NC(=S)NC(=O)OC WPBNNNQJVZRUHP-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052750 molybdenum Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000011733 molybdenum Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052759 nickel Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052758 niobium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000010955 niobium Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- GUCVJGMIXFAOAE-UHFFFAOYSA-N niobium atom Chemical compound [Nb] GUCVJGMIXFAOAE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229940006093 opthalmologic coloring agent diagnostic Drugs 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052706 scandium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- SIXSYDAISGFNSX-UHFFFAOYSA-N scandium atom Chemical compound [Sc] SIXSYDAISGFNSX-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052720 vanadium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- GPPXJZIENCGNKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N vanadium Chemical compound [V]#[V] GPPXJZIENCGNKB-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- 229910052727 yttrium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 4
- VWQVUPCCIRVNHF-UHFFFAOYSA-N yttrium atom Chemical compound [Y] VWQVUPCCIRVNHF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N Dextrotartaric acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)C(O)=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-JCYAYHJZSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M Ilexoside XXIX Chemical compound C[C@@H]1CC[C@@]2(CC[C@@]3(C(=CC[C@H]4[C@]3(CC[C@@H]5[C@@]4(CC[C@@H](C5(C)C)OS(=O)(=O)[O-])C)C)[C@@H]2[C@]1(C)O)C)C(=O)O[C@H]6[C@@H]([C@H]([C@@H]([C@H](O6)CO)O)O)O.[Na+] DGAQECJNVWCQMB-PUAWFVPOSA-M 0.000 claims description 3
- ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N Potassium Chemical compound [K] ZLMJMSJWJFRBEC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N Tartaric acid Natural products [H+].[H+].[O-]C(=O)C(O)C(O)C([O-])=O FEWJPZIEWOKRBE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000015165 citric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000004676 glycans Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000004310 lactic acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000014655 lactic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001542 oligosaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 150000002482 oligosaccharides Chemical class 0.000 claims description 3
- 229920001282 polysaccharide Polymers 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000005017 polysaccharide Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052700 potassium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011591 potassium Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 238000002203 pretreatment Methods 0.000 claims description 3
- 229910052708 sodium Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011734 sodium Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 239000011975 tartaric acid Substances 0.000 claims description 3
- 235000002906 tartaric acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 3
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N (S)-malic acid Chemical compound OC(=O)[C@@H](O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-REOHCLBHSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- PWHULOQIROXLJO-UHFFFAOYSA-N Manganese Chemical compound [Mn] PWHULOQIROXLJO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N alpha-hydroxysuccinic acid Natural products OC(=O)C(O)CC(O)=O BJEPYKJPYRNKOW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000001720 carbohydrates Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
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- 235000011090 malic acid Nutrition 0.000 claims description 2
- 229910052748 manganese Inorganic materials 0.000 claims description 2
- 239000011572 manganese Substances 0.000 claims description 2
- 150000004965 peroxy acids Chemical class 0.000 claims description 2
- AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N urea hydrogen peroxide Chemical compound OO.NC(N)=O AQLJVWUFPCUVLO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 2
- 210000004209 hair Anatomy 0.000 description 48
- 210000003128 head Anatomy 0.000 description 37
- 238000004061 bleaching Methods 0.000 description 27
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 20
- LVTJOONKWUXEFR-FZRMHRINSA-N protoneodioscin Natural products O(C[C@@H](CC[C@]1(O)[C@H](C)[C@@H]2[C@]3(C)[C@H]([C@H]4[C@@H]([C@]5(C)C(=CC4)C[C@@H](O[C@@H]4[C@H](O[C@H]6[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O6)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]6[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](C)O6)[C@H](CO)O4)CC5)CC3)C[C@@H]2O1)C)[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O1 LVTJOONKWUXEFR-FZRMHRINSA-N 0.000 description 12
- 238000004040 coloring Methods 0.000 description 10
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- 239000004411 aluminium Substances 0.000 description 9
- 229910052782 aluminium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 9
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- 230000003647 oxidation Effects 0.000 description 9
- 238000007254 oxidation reaction Methods 0.000 description 9
- 150000004679 hydroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 7
- 239000002453 shampoo Substances 0.000 description 7
- 235000011114 ammonium hydroxide Nutrition 0.000 description 6
- 238000005259 measurement Methods 0.000 description 6
- 238000005406 washing Methods 0.000 description 6
- DUNKXUFBGCUVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-J zirconium tetrachloride Chemical compound Cl[Zr](Cl)(Cl)Cl DUNKXUFBGCUVQW-UHFFFAOYSA-J 0.000 description 6
- VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N Ammonium hydroxide Chemical compound [NH4+].[OH-] VHUUQVKOLVNVRT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 5
- 238000009877 rendering Methods 0.000 description 5
- 229940058020 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol Drugs 0.000 description 4
- WRAGBEWQGHCDDU-UHFFFAOYSA-M C([O-])([O-])=O.[NH4+].[Zr+] Chemical compound C([O-])([O-])=O.[NH4+].[Zr+] WRAGBEWQGHCDDU-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 4
- CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N aminomethyl propanol Chemical compound CC(C)(N)CO CBTVGIZVANVGBH-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 4
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- UXFQFBNBSPQBJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-amino-2-methylpropane-1,3-diol Chemical compound OCC(N)(C)CO UXFQFBNBSPQBJW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
- WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N Benzyl alcohol Chemical compound OCC1=CC=CC=C1 WVDDGKGOMKODPV-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 3
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- 238000012505 colouration Methods 0.000 description 3
- 230000001590 oxidative effect Effects 0.000 description 3
- HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-Aminoethan-1-ol Chemical compound NCCO HZAXFHJVJLSVMW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004475 Arginine Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 239000004215 Carbon black (E152) Substances 0.000 description 2
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- 125000006577 C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N Triethanolamine Chemical class OCCN(CCO)CCO GSEJCLTVZPLZKY-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 229910052910 alkali metal silicate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
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- 125000005263 alkylenediamine group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 125000004103 aminoalkyl group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
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- 210000000077 angora Anatomy 0.000 description 1
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- QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N atomic oxygen Chemical compound [O] QVGXLLKOCUKJST-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 238000000861 blow drying Methods 0.000 description 1
- AXCZMVOFGPJBDE-UHFFFAOYSA-L calcium dihydroxide Chemical compound [OH-].[OH-].[Ca+2] AXCZMVOFGPJBDE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000000920 calcium hydroxide Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910001861 calcium hydroxide Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- STIAPHVBRDNOAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N carbamimidoylazanium;carbonate Chemical compound NC(N)=N.NC(N)=N.OC(O)=O STIAPHVBRDNOAJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052799 carbon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 210000000085 cashmere Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 125000002091 cationic group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000000919 ceramic Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000006243 chemical reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960002173 citrulline Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000013477 citrulline Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000004581 coalescence Methods 0.000 description 1
- 238000006482 condensation reaction Methods 0.000 description 1
- 230000003750 conditioning effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000008406 cosmetic ingredient Substances 0.000 description 1
- XXJWXESWEXIICW-UHFFFAOYSA-N diethylene glycol monoethyl ether Chemical compound CCOCCOCCO XXJWXESWEXIICW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940075557 diethylene glycol monoethyl ether Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000003995 emulsifying agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000002148 esters Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000001747 exhibiting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 210000004709 eyebrow Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 210000000720 eyelash Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000000835 fiber Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000945 filler Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000012530 fluid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000006260 foam Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000003205 fragrance Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940051250 hexylene glycol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229960002885 histidine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- HNDVDQJCIGZPNO-UHFFFAOYSA-N histidine Natural products OC(=O)C(N)CC1=CN=CN1 HNDVDQJCIGZPNO-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000004678 hydrides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 125000004435 hydrogen atom Chemical group [H]* 0.000 description 1
- XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-M hydroxide Chemical compound [OH-] XLYOFNOQVPJJNP-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 238000011065 in-situ storage Methods 0.000 description 1
- 235000000396 iron Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940102253 isopropanolamine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229910052747 lanthanoid Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000002602 lanthanoids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000002045 lasting effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000006210 lotion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960003646 lysine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000002739 metals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000007522 mineralic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000003020 moisturizing effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000978 natural dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000007935 neutral effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000003287 optical effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 150000007524 organic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000005985 organic acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229960003104 ornithine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000001301 oxygen Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052760 oxygen Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 230000000737 periodic effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229960005323 phenoxyethanol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003003 phosphines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000011007 phosphoric acid Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000049 pigment Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002985 plastic film Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920006255 plastic film Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 150000003077 polyols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000003141 primary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000003380 propellant Substances 0.000 description 1
- 125000001453 quaternary ammonium group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 150000003335 secondary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 150000004756 silanes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910000029 sodium carbonate Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 235000017550 sodium carbonate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 235000019795 sodium metasilicate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000007787 solid Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940063673 spermidine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940063675 spermine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-L sulfite Chemical class [O-]S([O-])=O LSNNMFCWUKXFEE-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 150000003460 sulfonic acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000004094 surface-active agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000000979 synthetic dye Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003512 tertiary amines Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 239000002562 thickening agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- 150000003573 thiols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 229910052723 transition metal Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 150000003624 transition metals Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 210000002268 wool Anatomy 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
- A61Q5/08—Preparations for bleaching the hair
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/27—Zinc; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/28—Zirconium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/19—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing inorganic ingredients
- A61K8/29—Titanium; Compounds thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
- A61K8/36—Carboxylic acids; Salts or anhydrides thereof
- A61K8/365—Hydroxycarboxylic acids; Ketocarboxylic acids
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/80—Process related aspects concerning the preparation of the cosmetic composition or the storage or application thereof
- A61K2800/88—Two- or multipart kits
- A61K2800/884—Sequential application
Definitions
- the present invention relates to a method for lightening keratin fibres comprising a step of application of a composition having a basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds.
- head hair lightening or bleaching products are used.
- tone depth which characterizes the degree or level of lightening.
- tone is based on the classification of natural shades, one tone separating each shade from the shade immediately following or preceding it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairstyling professionals and are published in the book Sciences des.s capillaires [The Science of Hair Care] by Charles Zviak, 1988, published by Masson, pp. 215 and 278.
- the tone depths range from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the figure, the lighter the shade.
- a subject matter of the present invention is a method for lightening keratin fibres comprising the following step i) or steps i') and ii'): i) application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (A) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; i') application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (Ai); ii') application to the keratin fibres of a composition (A ⁇ ) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; in which:
- compositions (Ai) and (A ⁇ ) are different;
- the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
- - M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium;
- - L which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II): in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH-); d) oxo (O 2- ); e) carbonate (CO 3 2 ); f) bicarbonate (HCO 3 );
- - n denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1 ;
- - p denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4;
- the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) respectively;
- steps i') and ii') are carried out simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or N') then i').
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of one or more metal compound(s) C as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A ⁇ ) as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A ⁇ ) as defined above as pre-treatment or post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres, preferably as post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A) as defined above for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while deyellowing them.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is a kit for the treatment of keratin fibres comprising a first compartment including a composition (Ai ' ) comprising hydrogen peroxide, a second compartment including a composition (A ⁇ ) as defined above and optionally a third compartment including a composition (AG) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts.
- the term "keratin fibres" is understood to mean fibres of human or animal origin, such as head hair, body hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibres are preferably human keratin fibres, more preferably head hair;
- lightening composition is understood to mean a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent
- alkyl group is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical
- (C x -C y )alkyl group is understood to mean an alkyl group comprising from x to y carbon atoms;
- alkylene group is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, divalent hydrocarbon radical
- (C X' -C y' )alkylene group is understood to mean an alkylene group comprising from x 1 to y 1 carbon atoms;
- basic pH is understood to mean a pH of greater than 7;
- oligosaccharide is understood to mean a polymer comprising from 2 to 10 monosaccharide units in which the monosaccharides are connected together by a glycoside bond;
- polysaccharide is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least 11 monosaccharide units in which the monosaccharides are connected together by a glycoside bond;
- the term "chemical oxidizing agent” is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen;
- the term “lightened keratin fibres” is understood to mean keratin fibres lightened using a lightening composition;
- reducing agent is understood to mean an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of head hair, such as compounds chosen from thiols, alkaline sulfites, hydrides and phosphines. Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present patent application, this is also understood to mean their optical isomers, their geometrical isomers or their tautomers, alone or as a mixture.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is a method for lightening keratin fibres as defined above.
- the method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain efficient lightening of keratin fibres with a decrease in the chromaticity of the lightened fibres and a less yellow, thus more natural, rendering.
- the method comprises the following step i): i) application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (A) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C;
- the metal compound(s) C being chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
- - M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium;
- - L which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II): in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH ); d) oxo (O 2-
- - p denotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4;
- the method comprises the following steps i') and ii'): i') application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (Ai); ii') application to the keratin fibres of a composition (A ⁇ ) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; in which:
- compositions (Ai) and (A ⁇ ) are different;
- the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
- - M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium;
- - L which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II): in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH ); d) oxo (O 2-
- - p denotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4; - n and p are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the metal co pound(s) C;
- ⁇ the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A ⁇ ) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A ⁇ ); ⁇ steps i') and ii') are carried out simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i').
- This second embodiment is particularly advantageous because it employs a separate composition (A ⁇ ) comprising the metal compound(s) C which can be used with any type of lightening composition already available on the market.
- compositions (Ai) and (A ⁇ ) are preferably mixed together before application in order to obtain a composition (B) which is subsequently applied to the keratin fibres.
- steps i') and ii') are carried out separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i'). More preferentially, steps i') and ii') are carried out separately in the order i') then ii').
- composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) comprises one or more metal compound(s) C chosen from the compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures.
- the oxidation state of the metal M is preferably chosen from +II, +III, +IV or +V.
- the oxidation state of the metal M is the highest oxidation state present in the natural state.
- M represents a metal chosen from titanium, zirconium, manganese and tungsten.
- M represents a metal chosen from titanium and zirconium.
- M represents a metal chosen from titanium and zirconium.
- T represents a monovalent group when q is equal to 0 or a polyvalent group when q is greater than or equal to 1.
- T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups and q is as defined above.
- T represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl or (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups and q is as defined above.
- At least one of the entities L represents acetic acid.
- At least one of the entities L is chosen from a- hydroxy acids.
- At least one of the entities L is chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid.
- the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds: - Zr(CI) 4 (CAS 10026-11-6);
- the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds:
- the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds:
- the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the combinations of the compounds of formula (I) as defined above with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form.
- the organic or inorganic bases are preferably chosen from: a) aqueous ammonia or its alkaline form NH 3 ; b) alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di- or tri(Ci-C 6 )alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (AMP), 2-amino- 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol (AM PD) and 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol, and also their derivatives; c) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated (Ci-C 6 )alkylenediamines; d) inorganic or organic hydroxides; e) basic amino acids, such
- - W represents a (Ci-Ce)alkylene group optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or one (Ci-Ce)alkyl group and/or optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom, such as O or NR U ;
- R x , R y , R z , R t and R u which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: (Ci-Ce)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl. Mention may be made, as example of such compounds of formula (IV), of 1,3- diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine or spermidine.
- the inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from hydroxides of an alkali metal, hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals from Groups III, IV, V and VI of the Periodic Table of the Elements, hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide.
- the hydroxide can be formed in situ, such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide, formed by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.
- the organic or inorganic bases are chosen from aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates, such as ammonium or sodium carbonate or ammonium or sodium bicarbonate, basic amino acids, such as arginine, alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine (MEA), 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3- propanediol (AMPD) and 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
- aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates such as ammonium or sodium carbonate or ammonium or sodium bicarbonate
- basic amino acids such as arginine
- alkanolamines such as monoethanolamine (MEA), 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3- propanediol (AMPD) and 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
- MEA monoethanolamine
- AMP 2-amino
- the organic or inorganic bases are chosen from aqueous ammonia and ammonium carbonate. Content of metal compounds C
- the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) respectively.
- the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) in a content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) respectively.
- the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) respectively.
- the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents. More preferentially, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and their mixtures.
- composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts.
- the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts, the peroxygenated salt(s) being chosen from persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or of ammonium and their mixtures.
- the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts, the peroxygenated salt(s) being chosen from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and their mixtures.
- composition (A) or (Ai) can comprise a total content of chemical oxidizing agents ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) respectively. Additional characteristics regarding the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) preferably comprise a total content of colouring agents and/or reducing agents of less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferentially still of less than 0.001 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) or (A ⁇ ) respectively.
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) are devoid of colouring agents and/or reducing agents.
- colouring agent is understood to mean an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
- oxidation dye is understood to mean an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are colourless or sparingly coloured compounds which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a coloured entity.
- direct dye is understood to mean a natural and/or synthetic dye, including in the form of an extract or extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are coloured compounds which will spread superficially over the fibre. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.
- the composition (A ⁇ ) preferably comprises a total content of chemical oxidizing agents of less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially still of less than 0.001% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A2).
- the composition (A ⁇ ) is devoid of chemical oxidizing agents.
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) can contain additives chosen from surfactants, thickening agents, propellants; oils; solid fatty substances and in particular C8-C40 esters; C8-C40 acids; C8-C40 alcohols; sunscreens; moisturizing agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescence agents; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning or styling polymers; fragrances; silanes.
- the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) can very obviously comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) can thus be provided in any form compatible with application to keratin fibres, for example in the form of a wax, a paste, a more or less fluid or thick cream, a gel, a foam, a spray or a lotion. pH of the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A2)
- the pH of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) is basic.
- the pH of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) is from 8 to 12. More preferentially, the pH of the composition (A) or (A ⁇ ) is from 9 to 11.
- the pH of the composition (Ai) is basic. More preferentially, the pH of the composition (Ai) is from 8 to 12. More preferentially still, the pH of the composition (Ai) is from 9 to 11.
- the pH of the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) can be adjusted to the desired value by means of customarily used basifying agents or acidifying agents. Mention may be made, among the basifying agents, by way of examples, of the organic or inorganic bases described above.
- inorganic or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as, for example, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) can comprise one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents and their mixtures.
- organic solvent is understood to mean an organic substance which is capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it.
- the organic solvents can be chosen from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; hexylene glycol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; and their mixtures.
- linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols such as ethanol and isopropanol
- polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether
- hexylene glycol such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol
- the organic solvents can be present in the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) or (A ⁇ ) respectively.
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) comprise water as solvent.
- compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A ⁇ ) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres.
- composition (A) can advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 12 g, preferably from 0.2 g to 5 g, of composition (A) per gram of keratin fibres.
- composition (Ai) can advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 10 g, preferably from 0.2 g to 5 g, of composition (Ai) per gram of keratin fibres.
- composition (A ⁇ ) can advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 10 g, preferably from 0.2 g to 5 g, of composition (A ⁇ ) per gram of keratin fibres.
- Step i) or steps i') and ii') of the method according to the present invention can be followed by a step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres using a heating means maintained at a temperature of at least 60°C.
- the heating means is maintained at a temperature of at least 80°C.
- the heating means is maintained at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 250°C, preferably ranging from 60°C to 230°C, more preferentially still ranging from 80°C to 230°C.
- the heating means can be maintained at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 150°C, preferably ranging from 80°C to 150°C, in particular when the treated head hair is brittle head hair. Heating means
- the heating means used during step iii) is preferably chosen from a straightening iron (or flat-nose tongs), a crimping or curling iron, a steam iron, a styling hood, a hair dryer, a dispenser of infrared rays and a heating comb.
- the heating means used during step iii) is a straightening iron.
- iron is understood to mean a device for heating keratin fibres which brings said fibres and the heating device into contact.
- the end of the iron which comes into contact with the keratin fibres generally exhibits two flat surfaces. These two surfaces can be made of metal or of ceramic. In particular, these two surfaces can be smooth or crimped or curved. Mention may be made, as examples of irons which can be used in the method according to the present invention, of any type of flat iron and in particular, in a non-limiting way, of those described in Patents US 5957 140 and US 5046516.
- steam iron is understood to mean an iron which comprises a device which emits steam and which applies this steam before, during or after the straightening operation.
- the steam is applied to the keratin fibres with a flow rate of less than 5 g/min, particular of between 1 and 4 g/min.
- the straightening or steam iron can be applied by successive separate strokes lasting a few seconds or by gradual movement or sliding along the locks.
- the straightening or steam iron can be applied in a continuous movement from the root to the end of the hair, in one or more passes, in particular in two to twenty passes.
- the duration of each pass of the straightening or steam iron can range from 2 seconds to 1 minute.
- the method can additionally comprise, immediately after step i), a step consisting in leaving the composition (A) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min.
- the method can additionally comprise, immediately after step i'), a step consisting in leaving the composition (Ai) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min, and/or, immediately after step ii'), a step consisting in leaving the composition (A ⁇ ) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min.
- the leave-on time for the first and the second embodiment of the invention can take place at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 45°C.
- the leave-on time and the step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres can be simultaneous.
- the leave-on time can take place under an occlusive system. Mention may be made, as non-limiting example of an occlusive system, of an occlusive system of curl paper type made of aluminium or of plastic film.
- the method additionally comprises one or more steps of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres.
- drying step is understood to mean a step of rinsing with water.
- the washing step is carried out using a shampoo, followed by rinsing with water. Drying step
- the method additionally comprises one or more steps of drying the keratin fibres.
- the drying step can be carried out using a hair dryer or a styling hood or also in the open air.
- the drying step can advantageously be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 70°C.
- the drying step can be carried out using a hair dryer and a brush (blow drying).
- the heating means used during the optional step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres is a straightening iron, a crimping or curling iron or a steam iron
- the method preferably comprises a drying step prior to step iii).
- the method according to the invention can be repeated several times, either consecutively or after a waiting period varying from a few hours to a few days. Depending on the situation, it is possible to carry out a series of treatments, the next one of which depends on the result of the preceding treatment.
- step i') can be repeated several times before carrying out step ii'). Examples of specific methods according to the present invention
- the method according to the first embodiment of the present invention can comprise the following successive steps:
- composition (A) a step consisting in leaving the composition (A) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min;
- the method according to the second embodiment of the present invention can comprise the following successive steps:
- composition (Ai) a step consisting in leaving the composition (Ai) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min;
- a step consisting in leaving the composition (A ⁇ ) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min, and optionally a simultaneous step of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres using a heating means maintained at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably maintained at a temperature of at least 80°C;
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of one or more metal compound(s) C as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A ⁇ ) as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A ⁇ ) as defined above as pre-treatment or post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres, preferably as post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A) as defined above for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while deyellowing them.
- a subject-matter of the present invention is a kit for the treatment of keratin fibres comprising a first compartment including a composition (Ai ' ) comprising hydrogen peroxide, a second compartment including a composition (A ⁇ ) as defined above and optionally a third compartment including a composition (AG) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts.
- the peroxygenated salt(s) included in the composition (AG) are preferably chosen from persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or of ammonium and their mixtures, more preferentially from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and their mixtures.
- the kit comprises a third compartment including a composition (AG) as defined above
- the composition (Ai) employed in the method according to the present invention is obtained by mixing, before application, the composition (Ai ' ) with the composition (AG).
- compositions (Ai ' ), (AG) and (A ⁇ ) can optionally be accompanied by suitable application means, such as fine brushes, brushes or sponges.
- suitable application means such as fine brushes, brushes or sponges.
- the kit can also be equipped with a means which make it possible to deliver the desired mixture to the head hair, such as, for example, the device described in Patent FR 2 586 913. Examples
- Example 1 (First embodiment of the invention) Four different locks of head hair a, b, a' and b' were prepared according to the preparation protocols described below.
- TD2 tone depth 2
- the preparation was left to stand for 30 minutes.
- the lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and dried with a hair dryer.
- the lock b was obtained from the lock a, which was treated a second time according to the protocol P1 described above.
- the lock b is a lock which has been subjected to two successive bleaching treatments.
- the lock b' was obtained from the lock a', which was treated a second time according to the protocol P3 described above.
- the lock b' is a lock which has been subjected to two successive bleaching treatments. Colorimetric measurements
- the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65).
- L* represents the lightness
- a* indicates the shade of the colour along the green/red colour axis
- b* indicates the shade of colour along the blue/yellow colour axis.
- the higher the value of L the lighter or less intense the colour.
- the lower the value of L the darker or more intense the colour.
- the difference in the colour on head hair corresponds to the variation in colouration between the locks of head hair bleached with a bleaching composition and the locks of head hair bleached with the same bleaching composition which additionally comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
- This difference (DE) is measured according to the following equation: in which: L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on a lock bleached once or twice with the bleaching composition comprising a metal compound C and U*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on a lock bleached respectively once or twice with the same bleaching composition without metal compound C.
- the chromaticity is calculated according to the following formula: The results of the colorimetric measurements are summarized in the following table:
- Protocol for preparation of the locks 1 , 2 and 3 (P5)
- the locks 1, 2 and 3 were prepared according to the protocol (P1) of Example 1, except for the drying step, the protocol being carried out three times in succession. Thus, the three locks are therefore bleached three times in succession.
- Protocol for preparation of the lock 4 - Application to wet head hair (P6) Immediately after the bleaching according to the protocol P5, 5.4 g of a 60% by weight aqueous solution of ammonium zirconium carbonate of formula (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CC>3)2 at pH 11 sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464597 were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the still wet lock 1 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet.
- the lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
- the lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
- Protocol for preparation of the lock 5 Application to head hair dried with a hair dryer (P7)
- the lock 2 was dried with a hair dryer and then 5.4 g of a 60% by weight aqueous solution of ammonium zirconium carbonate of formula (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CC>3)2 at pH 11 sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464597 were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the lock 2 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet.
- the lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
- the lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
- the lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
- the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65).
- L* represents the lightness
- a* indicates the shade of the colour along the green/red colour axis
- b* indicates the shade of colour along the blue/yellow colour axis.
- the higher the value of L the lighter or less intense the colour.
- the lower the value of L the darker or more intense the colour.
- the higher the value of a* the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade.
- the difference in the colour on head hair corresponds to the variation in colouration between the locks of head hair bleached with a bleaching composition and the locks of head hair bleached with the same bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
- This difference (DE) is measured according to the following equation: in which:
- L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention and U*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition but untreated with the composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
- composition according to the present invention comprising a metal compound C in post-treatment of a method for bleaching keratin fibres makes it possible to reduce the chromaticity, in particular the b* value, of a bleached lock and thus to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening with a less yellow and thus more natural rendering, it not mattering much if the post-treatment is carried out on a wet lock or on a lock dried with a hair dryer or in the open air.
- the preparation was left to stand for 50 minutes.
- the lock was subsequently rinsed with water and then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out.
- the lock was subsequently combed.
- the lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
- the lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
- the lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
- the colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65).
- L* represents the lightness
- a* indicates the shade of the colour along the green/red colour axis
- b* indicates the shade of colour along the blue/yellow colour axis.
- the higher the value of L the lighter or less intense the colour.
- the lower the value of L the darker or more intense the colour.
- the difference in the colour on head hair corresponds to the variation in colouration between the locks of head hair bleached with a bleaching composition and the locks of head hair bleached with the same bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
- This difference (DE) is measured according to the following equation: in which:
- L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention and U*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition but untreated with the composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
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Abstract
The present invention relates to a method for lightening keratin fibres comprising a step of application of a composition having a basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds.
Description
METHOD FOR LIGHTENING KERATIN FIBRES EMPLOYING A COMPOSITION HAVING A BASIC PH COMPRISING ONE OR MORE SPECIFIC METAL COMPOUNDS FIELD OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to a method for lightening keratin fibres comprising a step of application of a composition having a basic pH comprising one or more specific metal compounds.
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
When a person wishes to change head hair colour, in particular when he or she wishes to obtain a lighter colour than his or her original colour, it is often necessary to carry out, beforehand, head hair lightening or bleaching. To do this, lightening or bleaching products are used.
The lightening of head hair is evaluated by the "tone depth", which characterizes the degree or level of lightening. The notion of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, one tone separating each shade from the shade immediately following or preceding it. This definition and the classification of natural shades are well known to hairstyling professionals and are published in the book Sciences des traitements capillaires [The Science of Hair Care] by Charles Zviak, 1988, published by Masson, pp. 215 and 278.
The tone depths range from 1 (black) to 10 (very light blond), one unit corresponding to one tone; the higher the figure, the lighter the shade.
It is known practice to lighten or bleach head hair with lightening or bleaching compositions containing at least one chemical oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. The role of this oxidizing agent is to degrade the melanin of head hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present and on the pH conditions, results in more or less pronounced lightening of the fibres. Thus, for relatively mild lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, in particular when the treated head hair is dark, use is normally made of persulfates in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. However, the lightening obtained by the action of such a combination is not always satisfactory because head hair with rather unattractive orangey-yellow shades which are very different from
natural shades is obtained, thereby complicating the subsequent colouring by limiting it to the obtaining of warm tones.
Thus, there exists a real need to develop a method for lightening keratin fibres, in particular dark keratin fibres, which makes it possible to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening with a decrease in the chromaticity of the lightened fibres and a less yellow, thus more natural, rendering. Such a method should resort to easy-to-use compositions which can optionally be used in combination with commercially available lightening compositions.
The applicant company has discovered, surprisingly, that all of these objectives can be achieved by the method according to the present invention.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION According to a first aspect, a subject matter of the present invention is a method for lightening keratin fibres comprising the following step i) or steps i') and ii'): i) application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (A) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; i') application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (Ai); ii') application to the keratin fibres of a composition (Aå) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; in which:
■ the compositions (Ai) and (Aå) are different;
■ the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
(M)n(L)p (I) in which formula (I):
- M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium;
- L, which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II):
in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH-); d) oxo (O2-); e) carbonate (CO3 2 ); f) bicarbonate (HCO3 );
- n denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1 ; - p denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4;
- n and p are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the metal compound(s) C;
■ the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (Aå) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Aå) respectively;
■ steps i') and ii') are carried out simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or N') then i').
According to a second aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of one or more metal compound(s) C as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
According to a third aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (Aå) as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
According to a fourth aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (Aå) as defined above as pre-treatment or post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres, preferably as post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres.
According to a fifth aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A) as defined above for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while deyellowing them.
According to a sixth aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a kit for the treatment of keratin fibres comprising a first compartment including a composition (Ai') comprising hydrogen peroxide, a second compartment including a composition (Aå) as defined above and optionally a third compartment including a composition (AG) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION Within the meaning of the present invention and unless otherwise indicated:
■ the term "keratin fibres" is understood to mean fibres of human or animal origin, such as head hair, body hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, wool, angora, cashmere or fur. According to the present invention, the keratin fibres are preferably human keratin fibres, more preferably head hair;
■ the term "lightening composition" is understood to mean a composition comprising at least one chemical oxidizing agent;
■ the term "successive steps" is understood to mean steps carried out in the order indicated;
■ the term "alkyl group" is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, monovalent hydrocarbon radical;
■ the term "(Cx-Cy)alkyl group" is understood to mean an alkyl group comprising from x to y carbon atoms;
■ the term "alkylene group" is understood to mean a saturated, linear or branched, divalent hydrocarbon radical;
■ the term "(CX'-Cy')alkylene group" is understood to mean an alkylene group comprising from x1 to y1 carbon atoms;
■ the term "basic pH" is understood to mean a pH of greater than 7;
■ the term "oligosaccharide" is understood to mean a polymer comprising from 2 to 10 monosaccharide units in which the monosaccharides are connected together by a glycoside bond; ■ the term "polysaccharide" is understood to mean a polymer comprising at least 11 monosaccharide units in which the monosaccharides are connected together by a glycoside bond;
■ the term "chemical oxidizing agent" is understood to mean an oxidizing agent other than atmospheric oxygen; - the term "lightened keratin fibres" is understood to mean keratin fibres lightened using a lightening composition;
■ the term "reducing agent" is understood to mean an agent capable of reducing the disulfide bonds of head hair, such as compounds chosen from thiols, alkaline sulfites, hydrides and phosphines. Unless otherwise indicated, when compounds are mentioned in the present patent application, this is also understood to mean their optical isomers, their geometrical isomers or their tautomers, alone or as a mixture.
The expressions "at least one" and "one or more" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably. The expressions "lightening" and "bleaching" are synonymous and can be used interchangeably.
Method for lightening keratin fibres
According to a first aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a method for lightening keratin fibres as defined above.
The applicant company has found, surprisingly, that the method according to the invention makes it possible to obtain efficient lightening of keratin fibres with a decrease in the chromaticity of the lightened fibres and a less yellow, thus more natural, rendering.
First embodiment
According to a first embodiment, the method comprises the following step i):
i) application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (A) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C;
■ the metal compound(s) C being chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
(M)n(L)p (I) in which formula (I):
- M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium; - L, which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II):
in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH ); d) oxo (O2-); e) carbonate (CO3 2 ); f) bicarbonate (HCO3 ); - n denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1 ;
- p denotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4;
- n and p are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the metal compound(s) C;
■ the metal compound(s) C being present in the composition (A) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A).
Second embodiment
According to a second embodiment, the method comprises the following steps i') and ii'): i') application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (Ai); ii') application to the keratin fibres of a composition (Aå) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; in which:
■ the compositions (Ai) and (Aå) are different;
■ the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
(M)n(L)p (I) in which formula (I):
- M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium; - L , which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II):
in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH ); d) oxo (O2-); e) carbonate (CO3 2 ); f) bicarbonate (HCO3 ); - n denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1 ;
- p denotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4;
- n and p are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the metal co pound(s) C;
■ the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (Aå) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (Aå); ■ steps i') and ii') are carried out simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i').
This second embodiment is particularly advantageous because it employs a separate composition (Aå) comprising the metal compound(s) C which can be used with any type of lightening composition already available on the market.
In the case where steps i') and ii') are carried out simultaneously, the compositions (Ai) and (Aå) are preferably mixed together before application in order to obtain a composition (B) which is subsequently applied to the keratin fibres.
Preferably, steps i') and ii') are carried out separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i'). More preferentially, steps i') and ii') are carried out separately in the order i') then ii').
Metal compounds C The composition (A) or (Aå) comprises one or more metal compound(s) C chosen from the compounds of formula (I) as defined above, their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures. The oxidation state of the metal M is preferably chosen from +II, +III, +IV or +V.
Preferably, the oxidation state of the metal M is the highest oxidation state present in the natural state.
Preferably, M represents a metal chosen from titanium, zirconium, manganese and tungsten.
More preferentially, M represents a metal chosen from titanium and zirconium. a) Carboxylic acids of formula (II):
According to a specific embodiment, at least one of the entities L is chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula (II) as defined above.
In the formula (II), T represents a monovalent group when q is equal to 0 or a polyvalent group when q is greater than or equal to 1.
Preferably, T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups and q is as defined above.
According to a specific embodiment, T represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl or (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups and q is as defined above.
Preferably, at least one of the entities L represents acetic acid.
According to a preferred embodiment, at least one of the entities L is chosen from a- hydroxy acids.
According to a more preferred embodiment, at least one of the entities L is chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid.
According to a specific embodiment, T represents the residue of a carbohydrate chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides and q = 0.
Preferably, the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds: - Zr(CI)4 (CAS 10026-11-6);
- (CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4;
- Zr(0H)2(C03)2 (CAS 687610-10-2); - the compounds of following formula (III):
Zr(OH)r(Qi)s(Q2)u (III) in which formula (III): o which are identical or different, are chosen from C03 2 or HC03 ; o Q2, which are identical or different, are chosen from NH3 or NH4 +;
o r represents an integer chosen from 1, 2 or 3; o s represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 ; o u represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 ; o r, s and u are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the compounds of formula (III); o the sum r+s+u is equal to 6 or 7;
(CAS 65104-06-5);
- Ti(0H)2(C03)2 (CAS 735236-14-3); - the solvates of these compounds, such as the hydrates;
- and their mixtures.
More preferentially, the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds:
- Zr(CI)4 (CAS 10026-11-6); - (CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4;
- Zr(0H)2(C03)2 (CAS 687610-10-2);
- (NH4)2Zr(0H)2(C03)2 (CAS 68309-95-5);
- (NH4)3Zr(0H)(C03)3 (CAS 32535-84-5);
(CAS 65104-06-5);
- Ti(0H)2(C03)2 (CAS 735236-14-3);
- the solvates of these compounds, such as the hydrates;
- and their mixtures. More preferentially still, the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds:
- Zr(CI)4 (CAS 10026-11-6);
- (CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4;
- (NH4)2Zr(0H)2(C03)2 (CAS 68309-95-5);
- the solvates of these compounds, such as the hydrates;
- and their mixtures.
Organic or inorganic bases
According to a specific embodiment, the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the combinations of the compounds of formula (I) as defined above with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form. The organic or inorganic bases are preferably chosen from: a) aqueous ammonia or its alkaline form NH3; b) alkanolamines, in particular mono-, di- or tri(Ci-C6)alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- and triethanolamines, isopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (AMP), 2-amino- 2-methyl-1, 3-propanediol (AM PD) and 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol, and also their derivatives; c) oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated (Ci-C6)alkylenediamines; d) inorganic or organic hydroxides; e) basic amino acids, such as arginine, lysine, ornithine, citrulline and histidine; f) alkali metal or alkaline earth metal silicates or metasilicates, such as sodium metasilicates; g) carbonates and bicarbonates, particularly of primary, secondary or tertiary amine, of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, or of ammonium; and h) the compounds of following formula (IV):
in which formula (IV):
- W represents a (Ci-Ce)alkylene group optionally substituted by at least one hydroxyl group or one (Ci-Ce)alkyl group and/or optionally interrupted by at least one heteroatom, such as O or NRU;
- Rx, Ry, Rz, Rt and Ru, which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group chosen from: (Ci-Ce)alkyl, C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or C1-C6 aminoalkyl.
Mention may be made, as example of such compounds of formula (IV), of 1,3- diaminopropane, 1,3-diamino-2-propanol, spermine or spermidine.
The inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from hydroxides of an alkali metal, hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide, hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals from Groups III, IV, V and VI of the Periodic Table of the Elements, hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides, quaternary ammonium hydroxides and guanidinium hydroxide.
The hydroxide can be formed in situ, such as, for example, guanidine hydroxide, formed by reaction of calcium hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.
Preferably, the organic or inorganic bases are chosen from aqueous ammonia, carbonates or bicarbonates, such as ammonium or sodium carbonate or ammonium or sodium bicarbonate, basic amino acids, such as arginine, alkanolamines, such as monoethanolamine (MEA), 2-amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol (AMP), 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3- propanediol (AMPD) and 2-amino-1, 3-propanediol.
More preferentially, the organic or inorganic bases are chosen from aqueous ammonia and ammonium carbonate. Content of metal compounds C
The metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (Aå) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Aå) respectively.
Preferably, the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (Aå) in a content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Aå) respectively.
More preferentially, the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (Aå) in a content ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Aå) respectively.
Lightening composition (A) or (Ai)
Preferably, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents.
More preferentially, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and their mixtures.
More preferentially still, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts.
Most preferentially, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts, the peroxygenated salt(s) being chosen from persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or of ammonium and their mixtures. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts, the peroxygenated salt(s) being chosen from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and their mixtures.
The composition (A) or (Ai) can comprise a total content of chemical oxidizing agents ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, more preferentially ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) respectively. Additional characteristics regarding the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or
The compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) preferably comprise a total content of colouring agents and/or reducing agents of less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.01 % by weight, more preferentially still of less than 0.001 % by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) or (Aå) respectively.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) are devoid of colouring agents and/or reducing agents.
The term "colouring agent" is understood to mean an oxidation dye, a direct dye or a pigment.
The term "oxidation dye" is understood to mean an oxidation dye precursor chosen from oxidation bases and couplers. Oxidation bases and couplers are colourless or sparingly coloured compounds which, by a condensation reaction in the presence of an oxidizing agent, give a coloured entity.
The term "direct dye" is understood to mean a natural and/or synthetic dye, including in the form of an extract or extracts, other than oxidation dyes. These are coloured compounds which will spread superficially over the fibre. They can be ionic or non-ionic, i.e. anionic, cationic, neutral or non-ionic.
The composition (Aå) preferably comprises a total content of chemical oxidizing agents of less than 0.1% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially still of less than 0.001% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A2). According to a preferred embodiment, the composition (Aå) is devoid of chemical oxidizing agents.
The compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) can contain additives chosen from surfactants, thickening agents, propellants; oils; solid fatty substances and in particular C8-C40 esters; C8-C40 acids; C8-C40 alcohols; sunscreens; moisturizing agents; antidandruff agents; antioxidants; pearlescent and opacifying agents; plasticizing or coalescence agents; fillers; emulsifiers; polymers, in particular conditioning or styling polymers; fragrances; silanes. The compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) can very obviously comprise several cosmetic ingredients appearing in the above list.
The compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) can thus be provided in any form compatible with application to keratin fibres, for example in the form of a wax, a paste, a more or less fluid or thick cream, a gel, a foam, a spray or a lotion. pH of the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (A2)
The pH of the composition (A) or (Aå) is basic.
Preferably, the pH of the composition (A) or (Aå) is from 8 to 12. More preferentially, the pH of the composition (A) or (Aå) is from 9 to 11. Preferably, the pH of the composition (Ai) is basic. More preferentially, the pH of the composition (Ai) is from 8 to 12. More preferentially still, the pH of the composition (Ai) is from 9 to 11.
The pH of the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) can be adjusted to the desired value by means of customarily used basifying agents or acidifying agents. Mention may be made, among the basifying agents, by way of examples, of the organic or inorganic bases described above. Mention may be made, among the acidifying agents, by way of examples, of inorganic or organic acids, such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids, such as, for example, acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid or lactic acid, or sulfonic acids.
Solvents The compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) can comprise one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents and their mixtures.
The term "organic solvent" is understood to mean an organic substance which is capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it.
The organic solvents can be chosen from linear or branched C2-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers, such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether; hexylene glycol; aromatic alcohols, such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol; and their mixtures.
The organic solvents can be present in the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) or (Aå) respectively.
According to a preferred embodiment, the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) comprise water as solvent.
Additional characteristics regarding the method The compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) can be applied to dry or wet keratin fibres.
Bath ratio
The composition (A) can advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 12 g, preferably from 0.2 g to 5 g, of composition (A) per gram of keratin fibres.
The composition (Ai) can advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 10 g, preferably from 0.2 g to 5 g, of composition (Ai) per gram of keratin fibres.
The composition (Aå) can advantageously be applied to the keratin fibres in an amount ranging from 0.1 g to 10 g, preferably from 0.2 g to 5 g, of composition (Aå) per gram of keratin fibres.
Step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres
Step i) or steps i') and ii') of the method according to the present invention can be followed by a step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres using a heating means maintained at a temperature of at least 60°C.
Preferably, the heating means is maintained at a temperature of at least 80°C.
According to a preferred embodiment, the heating means is maintained at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 250°C, preferably ranging from 60°C to 230°C, more preferentially still ranging from 80°C to 230°C.
The heating means can be maintained at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 150°C, preferably ranging from 80°C to 150°C, in particular when the treated head hair is brittle head hair. Heating means
The heating means used during step iii) is preferably chosen from a straightening iron (or flat-nose tongs), a crimping or curling iron, a steam iron, a styling hood, a hair dryer, a dispenser of infrared rays and a heating comb.
According to a specific embodiment, the heating means used during step iii) is a straightening iron.
The term "iron" is understood to mean a device for heating keratin fibres which brings said fibres and the heating device into contact. The end of the iron which comes into contact with the keratin fibres generally exhibits two flat surfaces. These two surfaces can be made of metal or of ceramic. In particular, these two surfaces can be smooth or
crimped or curved. Mention may be made, as examples of irons which can be used in the method according to the present invention, of any type of flat iron and in particular, in a non-limiting way, of those described in Patents US 5957 140 and US 5046516. The term "steam iron" is understood to mean an iron which comprises a device which emits steam and which applies this steam before, during or after the straightening operation.
Mention may be made, as examples of steam iron, of the appliances of Steampod type of the Rowenta trademark.
Advantageously, the steam is applied to the keratin fibres with a flow rate of less than 5 g/min, particular of between 1 and 4 g/min.
The straightening or steam iron can be applied by successive separate strokes lasting a few seconds or by gradual movement or sliding along the locks.
The straightening or steam iron can be applied in a continuous movement from the root to the end of the hair, in one or more passes, in particular in two to twenty passes. The duration of each pass of the straightening or steam iron can range from 2 seconds to 1 minute.
Optional steps of the method
Leave-on time step
In the context of the first embodiment of the invention, the method can additionally comprise, immediately after step i), a step consisting in leaving the composition (A) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min.
In the context of the second embodiment of the invention, the method can additionally comprise, immediately after step i'), a step consisting in leaving the composition (Ai) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min, and/or, immediately after step ii'), a step consisting in leaving the composition (Aå) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min.
The leave-on time for the first and the second embodiment of the invention can take place at a temperature ranging from 15°C to 45°C.
According to a preferred embodiment, the leave-on time and the step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres can be simultaneous.
The leave-on time can take place under an occlusive system. Mention may be made, as non-limiting example of an occlusive system, of an occlusive system of curl paper type made of aluminium or of plastic film.
Rinsing and/or washing step
Preferably, the method additionally comprises one or more steps of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres.
The term "rinsing step" is understood to mean a step of rinsing with water.
Preferably, the washing step is carried out using a shampoo, followed by rinsing with water. Drying step
Preferably, the method additionally comprises one or more steps of drying the keratin fibres.
The drying step can be carried out using a hair dryer or a styling hood or also in the open air. The drying step can advantageously be carried out at a temperature ranging from 20°C to 70°C. The drying step can be carried out using a hair dryer and a brush (blow drying).
When the heating means used during the optional step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres is a straightening iron, a crimping or curling iron or a steam iron, the method preferably comprises a drying step prior to step iii).
The method according to the invention can be repeated several times, either consecutively or after a waiting period varying from a few hours to a few days. Depending on the situation, it is possible to carry out a series of treatments, the next one of which depends on the result of the preceding treatment.
In the context of the second embodiment of the invention, step i') can be repeated several times before carrying out step ii').
Examples of specific methods according to the present invention
By way of example, the method according to the first embodiment of the present invention can comprise the following successive steps:
1) a step of application, to the keratin fibres, of a lightening composition (A) as defined above;
2) a step consisting in leaving the composition (A) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min;
3) a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres;
4) optionally a step of combing the keratin fibres;
5) a step of drying the keratin fibres.
By way of example, the method according to the second embodiment of the present invention can comprise the following successive steps:
1') a step of application, to the keratin fibres, of a lightening composition (Ai) as defined above;
2') a step consisting in leaving the composition (Ai) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min;
3') a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres;
4') optionally a step of drying the keratin fibres;
5') a step of application, to the keratin fibres, of a composition (Aå) as defined above;
6') a step consisting in leaving the composition (Aå) to stand on the keratin fibres for a period of time ranging from 5 min to 60 min, preferably from 15 min to 40 min, more preferentially from 20 min to 40 min, and optionally a simultaneous step of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres using a heating means maintained at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably maintained at a temperature of at least 80°C;
7') a step of rinsing and/or washing the keratin fibres;
8') a step of drying the keratin fibres.
The technical characteristics described above regarding the various steps of the method according to the present invention also apply to these specific examples of methods.
Uses
According to a second aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of one or more metal compound(s) C as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres. According to a third aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (Aå) as defined above for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
According to a fourth aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (Aå) as defined above as pre-treatment or post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres, preferably as post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres.
According to a fifth aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is the use of a composition (A) as defined above for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while deyellowing them.
Kit
According to a sixth aspect, a subject-matter of the present invention is a kit for the treatment of keratin fibres comprising a first compartment including a composition (Ai') comprising hydrogen peroxide, a second compartment including a composition (Aå) as defined above and optionally a third compartment including a composition (AG) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts.
The peroxygenated salt(s) included in the composition (AG) are preferably chosen from persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or of ammonium and their mixtures, more preferentially from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and their mixtures.
When the kit comprises a third compartment including a composition (AG) as defined above, the composition (Ai) employed in the method according to the present invention is obtained by mixing, before application, the composition (Ai') with the composition (AG).
The compositions (Ai'), (AG) and (Aå) can optionally be accompanied by suitable application means, such as fine brushes, brushes or sponges.
The kit can also be equipped with a means which make it possible to deliver the desired mixture to the head hair, such as, for example, the device described in Patent FR 2 586 913. Examples
The examples which follow serve to illustrate the invention without, however, exhibiting a limiting nature.
Example 1 (First embodiment of the invention) Four different locks of head hair a, b, a' and b' were prepared according to the preparation protocols described below.
Protocol for preparation of the lock a (P1)
A preparation obtained by mixing 10.8 g of bleaching powder based on persulfates, L'Oreal Professionnel Platifiz Precision, with 16.2 g of 20 volume oxidizing cream, L'Oreal Professionnel, was applied uniformly using a fine colouring brush to a lock of head hair, tone depth 2 (TD2), of 2.7 g positioned flat on an aluminium sheet placed on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 33°C.
The preparation was left to stand for 30 minutes. The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and dried with a hair dryer.
Protocol for preparation of the lock b (P2)
The lock b was obtained from the lock a, which was treated a second time according to the protocol P1 described above. Thus, the lock b is a lock which has been subjected to two successive bleaching treatments.
Protocol for preparation of the lock a' (P3)
A preparation obtained by mixing 10.8 g of bleaching power based on persulfates, L'Oreal Professionnel Platifiz Precision, with 16.2 g of 20 volume oxidizing cream, L'Oreal Professionnel, and 3 g of a 60% by weight aqueous solution of ammonium zirconium carbonate of formula (NH4)2Zr(0H)2(C03)2 sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464597 was applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to a lock of head hair (tone depth 2) of 2.7 g positioned flat on an aluminium sheet placed on a heating plate
maintained at a temperature of 33°C. The preparation was left to stand for 30 minutes. The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and dried with a hair dryer. Protocol for preparation of the lock b' (P4)
The lock b' was obtained from the lock a', which was treated a second time according to the protocol P3 described above. Thus, the lock b' is a lock which has been subjected to two successive bleaching treatments. Colorimetric measurements
The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65).
In this L* a* b* system, L* represents the lightness, a* indicates the shade of the colour along the green/red colour axis and b* indicates the shade of colour along the blue/yellow colour axis. The higher the value of L, the lighter or less intense the colour. Conversely, the lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the colour. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade.
The difference in the colour on head hair corresponds to the variation in colouration between the locks of head hair bleached with a bleaching composition and the locks of head hair bleached with the same bleaching composition which additionally comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention. This difference (DE) is measured according to the following equation:
in which: L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on a lock bleached once or twice with the bleaching composition comprising a metal compound C and U*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on a lock bleached respectively once or twice with the same bleaching composition without metal compound C. The chromaticity is calculated according to the following formula:
The results of the colorimetric measurements are summarized in the following table:
[Table 1]
These results demonstrate that the addition of a metal compound C according to the present invention to the bleaching composition makes it possible to reduce the chromaticity, in particular the b* value, of a lock bleached once or twice and thus to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening with a less yellow, and thus more natural, rendering. Example 2 (Second embodiment of the invention)
Six different locks of head hair were prepared according to the preparation protocols described below.
Protocol for preparation of the locks 1 , 2 and 3 (P5) The locks 1, 2 and 3 were prepared according to the protocol (P1) of Example 1, except for the drying step, the protocol being carried out three times in succession. Thus, the three locks are therefore bleached three times in succession.
Protocol for preparation of the lock 4 - Application to wet head hair (P6) Immediately after the bleaching according to the protocol P5, 5.4 g of a 60% by weight aqueous solution of ammonium zirconium carbonate of formula (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CC>3)2 at
pH 11 sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464597 were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the still wet lock 1 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet.
The lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes. The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
Protocol for preparation of the lock 5 - Application to head hair dried with a hair dryer (P7) Immediately after the bleaching according to the protocol P5, the lock 2 was dried with a hair dryer and then 5.4 g of a 60% by weight aqueous solution of ammonium zirconium carbonate of formula (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CC>3)2 at pH 11 sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464597 were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the lock 2 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet. The lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air. Protocol for preparation of the lock 6 - Application to head hair dried in the open air (P8)
Immediately after the bleaching according to the protocol P5, the lock 3 was left to dry in the open air and then, on the following day, 5.4 g of a 60% by weight aqueous solution of ammonium zirconium carbonate of formula (NH4)2Zr(OH)2(CC>3)2 at pH 11 sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464597 were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the lock 3 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet.
The lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
Colorimetric measurements
The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65).
In this L* a* b* system, L* represents the lightness, a* indicates the shade of the colour
along the green/red colour axis and b* indicates the shade of colour along the blue/yellow colour axis. The higher the value of L, the lighter or less intense the colour. Conversely, the lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the colour. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade. The difference in the colour on head hair corresponds to the variation in colouration between the locks of head hair bleached with a bleaching composition and the locks of head hair bleached with the same bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention. This difference (DE) is measured according to the following equation:
in which:
L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention and U*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition but untreated with the composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
The chromaticity is calculated according to the following formula:
The results of the colorimetric measurements are summarized in the following table:
These results demonstrate that the use of a composition according to the present invention comprising a metal compound C in post-treatment of a method for bleaching keratin fibres makes it possible to reduce the chromaticity, in particular the b* value, of a bleached lock and thus to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening with a less yellow and thus more natural rendering, it not mattering much if the post-treatment is carried out on a wet lock or on a lock dried with a hair dryer or in the open air.
Example 3 (Second embodiment of the invention)
Four different locks of head hair were prepared according to the preparation protocols described below.
Protocol for preparation of the locks 8 and 9 (P9)
A preparation obtained by mixing 8 g of bleaching powder based on persulfates, L'Oreal Professionnel Blond Studio Multi-Techniques 8, with 16 g of 30 volume oxidizing cream, L'Oreal Professionnel Blond Studio, was applied uniformly using a fine colouring brush all along a lock of head hair, tone depth 2 (TD2), of 2.7 g positioned flat on an aluminium sheet placed on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 33°C. The preparation was left to stand for 50 minutes. The lock was subsequently rinsed with water and then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out. The lock was subsequently combed.
Protocol for preparation of the lock 10 - zirconium(IV) chloride (P10)
Immediately after the bleaching according to the protocol P9, 5.4 g of a solution of zirconium(IV) chloride (ZrCL) at 15% by weight in water prepared from zirconium chloride sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 221880 at pH 11 with addition of aqueous ammonia were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the still wet lock 8 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet.
The lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air. Protocol for preparation of the lock 11 - zirconium(IV) acetate hydroxide (P11)
Immediately after the bleaching according to the protocol P9, 5.4 g of a solution of zirconium(IV) acetate hydroxide at 15% by weight in water prepared from zirconium(IV) acetate hydroxide ((CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4) sold by Sigma-Aldrich under the reference 464600 at pH 11 with addition of aqueous ammonia were applied uniformly using a thin colouring brush to the still wet lock 9 positioned flat on an aluminium sheet. The lock was subsequently kept flat in an oven at 80°C for 30 minutes.
The lock was subsequently rinsed with water, then a shampooing (0.4 g of shampoo per gram of head hair) was subsequently carried out and, finally, the lock was combed and left to dry suspended in the open air.
Colorimetric measurements
The colour of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L* a* b* system, using a Minolta® CM 3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65).
In this L* a* b* system, L* represents the lightness, a* indicates the shade of the colour along the green/red colour axis and b* indicates the shade of colour along the blue/yellow colour axis. The higher the value of L, the lighter or less intense the colour. Conversely, the lower the value of L, the darker or more intense the colour. The higher the value of a*, the redder the shade, and the higher the value of b*, the yellower the shade.
The difference in the colour on head hair corresponds to the variation in colouration between the locks of head hair bleached with a bleaching composition and the locks of head hair bleached with the same bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention. This difference (DE) is measured according to the following equation:
in which:
L*, a* and b* represent the values measured on a lock bleached with the bleaching composition and then treated with a composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention and U*, ao* and bo* represent the values measured on
a lock bleached with the bleaching composition but untreated with the composition which comprises a metal compound C according to the present invention.
The results of the colorimetric measurements are summarized in the following table:
[Table 3]
These results demonstrate that the use of a composition according to the present invention comprising a metal compound C in post-treatment of a method for bleaching keratin fibres makes it possible to reduce the chromaticity, in particular the b* value, of a bleached lock and thus to obtain a satisfactory level of lightening with a less yellow and thus more natural rendering.
Claims
1. Method for lightening keratin fibres comprising the following step i) or steps i') and ii'): i) application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (A) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; i') application to the keratin fibres of a lightening composition (Ai); ii') application to the keratin fibres of a composition (Aå) having a basic pH comprising one or more metal compounds C; in which:
■ the compositions (Ai) and (Aå) are different; - the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the compounds of following formula (I), their combinations with one or more organic or inorganic bases in or not in salified form, their solvates, such as hydrates, and their mixtures:
(M)n(L)p (I) in which formula (I): - M represents a metal chosen from scandium, titanium, vanadium, manganese, iron, cobalt, nickel, yttrium, zirconium, niobium, molybdenum, tungsten and iridium;
- L, which are identical or different, are chosen from: a) the carboxylic acids of following formula (II):
in which formula (II): o T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups; o q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; b) halides, such as the fluoride, the chloride, the bromide and the iodide, preferably the chloride; c) hydroxo (OH ); d) oxo (O2-); e) carbonate (CO32);
f) bicarbonate (HCO3 );
- n denotes an integer chosen from 1 , 2, 3 or 4, preferably 1 ;
- p denotes an integer chosen from 1, 2, 3 or 4;
- n and p are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the metal compound(s) C;
■ the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (Aå) in a total content of at least 5% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Aå) respectively;
■ steps i') and ii') are carried out simultaneously or separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i').
2. Method according to Claim 1, in which the method comprises steps i') and ii'), steps i') and ii') being carried out simultaneously, the compositions (Ai) and (Aå) being preferably mixed together before application in order to obtain a composition (B) which is subsequently applied to the keratin fibres.
3. Method according to Claim 1, in which the method comprises steps i') and ii'), steps i') and ii') being carried out separately in the order i') then ii') or ii') then i'), preferably in the order i') then ii').
4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which M represents a metal chosen from titanium, zirconium, manganese and tungsten, preferably from titanium and zirconium.
5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of the entities L is chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
- T represents a saturated or unsaturated, cyclic or non-cyclic, aromatic or non-aromatic, hydrocarbon group comprising from 1 to 50 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted by one or more heteroatoms and/or optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups;
- q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2.
6. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of the entities L is chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
- T represents a (Ci-Ce)alkyl or (Ci-Ce)alkylene group, optionally substituted by one or more hydroxyl and/or amino groups;
- q represents an integer ranging from 0 to 10, preferably ranging from 0 to 5, more preferentially ranging from 0 to 2; preferably, at least one of the entities L represents acetic acid.
7. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of the entities L is chosen from a-hydroxy acids, preferably chosen from lactic acid, citric acid, malic acid, tartaric acid and glycolic acid.
8. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which at least one of the entities L is chosen from a) the carboxylic acids of formula (II) in which:
- T represents the residue of a carbohydrate chosen from monosaccharides, oligosaccharides and polysaccharides;
- q = 0.
9. Method according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the metal compound(s) C are chosen from the following compounds:
- Zr(CI)4;
- (CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4;
- Zr(0H)2(C03)2;
- the compounds of following formula (III): Zr(OH)r(Qi)s(Q2)u (III) in which formula (III): o which are identical or different, are chosen from C03 2 or HC03 ; o Q2, which are identical or different, are chosen from NH3 or NhV; o r represents an integer chosen from 1, 2 or 3; o s represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 ; o u represents an integer greater than or equal to 1 ; o r, s and u are chosen so as to guarantee the electrical neutrality of the compounds of formula (III); o the sum r+s+u is equal to 6 or 7; - (NH4)2Zr0(C03)2;
- Ti(0H)2(C03)2;
- the solvates of these compounds, such as the hydrates;
- and their mixtures; preferably from the following compounds:
- Zr(CI)4;
- (CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4;
- Zr(0H)2(C03)2;
- (NH4)2Zr(0H)2(C03)2; - (NH4)3Zr(0H)(C03)3;
- Ti(0H)2(C03)2;
- the solvates of these compounds, such as the hydrates; - and their mixtures; more preferentially from the following compounds:
- Zr(CI)4;
- (CH3C02)xZr(0H)y with x+y = 4;
- (NH4)2Zr(0H)2(C03)2; - the solvates of these compounds, such as the hydrates;
- and their mixtures.
10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the metal compound(s) C are present in the composition (A) or (A2) in a total content ranging from 5% to 60% by weight, preferably ranging from 10% to 60% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Aå) respectively.
11. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the pH of the composition (A) or (Aå) ranges from 8 to 12, preferably from 9 to 11.
12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) comprise one or more solvents chosen from water, organic solvents and their mixtures, preferably water.
13. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) comprise a total content of colouring agents and/or reducing agents of less than 0.1% by weight, preferably of less than 0.01% by weight, more preferentially of less than 0.001% by weight, with respect to the total weight of the composition (A) or (Ai) or (Aå) respectively; more preferably still, the compositions (A), (Ai) and/or (Aå) are devoid of colouring agents and/or reducing agents.
14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises one or more chemical oxidizing agents, preferably chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, peroxygenated salts, peracids and their precursors, and their mixtures; more preferentially, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts; more preferentially still, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts, the peroxygenated salt(s) being chosen from persulfates, perborates or percarbonates of alkali metals or alkaline earth metals or of ammonium and their mixtures; most preferentially, the composition (A) or (Ai) comprises a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and of one or more peroxygenated salts, the peroxygenated salt(s) being chosen from sodium, potassium or ammonium persulfates and their mixtures.
15. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, in which step i) or steps i') and ii') is/are followed by a step iii) of elevation of the temperature of the keratin fibres using a heating means maintained at a temperature of at least 60°C, preferably maintained at a temperature of at least 80°C.
16. Use of one or more metal compounds C as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 4 to 9 for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
17. Use of a composition (Aå) as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 4 to 13 for the deyellowing of lightened keratin fibres.
18. Use of a composition (Aå) as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 4 to 13 as pre treatment or post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres, preferably as post-treatment composition of a method for lightening keratin fibres.
19. Use of a composition (A) as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 4 to 14 for lightening keratin fibres, preferably for lightening keratin fibres while deyellowing them.
20. Kit for the treatment of keratin fibres comprising a first compartment including a composition (Ai') comprising hydrogen peroxide, a second compartment including a composition (Aå) as defined in any one of Claims 1 or 4 to 13 and optionally a third compartment including a composition (AG) comprising one or more peroxygenated salts.
Applications Claiming Priority (2)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR2106929 | 2021-06-28 | ||
FR2106929A FR3124381B1 (en) | 2021-06-28 | 2021-06-28 | Process for lightening keratin fibers using a basic pH composition comprising one or more specific metal compounds |
Publications (1)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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WO2023275070A1 true WO2023275070A1 (en) | 2023-01-05 |
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Application Number | Title | Priority Date | Filing Date |
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PCT/EP2022/067764 WO2023275070A1 (en) | 2021-06-28 | 2022-06-28 | Method for lightening keratin fibres employing a composition having a basic ph comprising one or more specific metal compounds |
Country Status (2)
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FR (1) | FR3124381B1 (en) |
WO (1) | WO2023275070A1 (en) |
Citations (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB852777A (en) * | 1958-04-15 | 1960-11-02 | Lawrence Richard Bruce Inc | Improvements in composition for bleaching hair |
FR2586913A1 (en) | 1985-09-10 | 1987-03-13 | Oreal | PROCESS FOR FORMING IN IN SITU A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF TWO PARTS CONDITIONED SEPARATELY AND DISPENSING ASSEMBLY FOR IMPLEMENTING SAID METHOD |
US5046516A (en) | 1988-10-31 | 1991-09-10 | George Barradas | Hair curling iron |
US5957140A (en) | 1998-11-19 | 1999-09-28 | Mcgee; Robert J. | Hair styling iron for straightening and curling |
EP1174491A2 (en) * | 2000-07-21 | 2002-01-23 | Ekkehardt Hahn | Bleaching and oxidation agents and their use |
WO2003047542A1 (en) * | 2001-12-05 | 2003-06-12 | Unilever Plc | Hair bleaching and colouring composition which comprise trasition metal catalysts |
WO2006106366A1 (en) * | 2005-04-06 | 2006-10-12 | The Boots Company Plc | Improved oxidative hair dyes and related topical compositions |
WO2011000892A2 (en) * | 2009-07-02 | 2011-01-06 | University Of Leeds | Catalysed dye systems |
FR2954098A1 (en) * | 2009-12-23 | 2011-06-24 | Oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL DERIVATIVE A PARTICULAR METAL DERIVATIVE AND ALKALINIZING AGENT FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS |
FR3037241A1 (en) * | 2015-06-12 | 2016-12-16 | Oreal | A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING A TITANIUM SALT, A COLOR, AND A PARTICULAR SOLVENT |
FR3052053A1 (en) * | 2016-06-07 | 2017-12-08 | Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa |
-
2021
- 2021-06-28 FR FR2106929A patent/FR3124381B1/en active Active
-
2022
- 2022-06-28 WO PCT/EP2022/067764 patent/WO2023275070A1/en unknown
Patent Citations (11)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
GB852777A (en) * | 1958-04-15 | 1960-11-02 | Lawrence Richard Bruce Inc | Improvements in composition for bleaching hair |
FR2586913A1 (en) | 1985-09-10 | 1987-03-13 | Oreal | PROCESS FOR FORMING IN IN SITU A COMPOSITION CONSISTING OF TWO PARTS CONDITIONED SEPARATELY AND DISPENSING ASSEMBLY FOR IMPLEMENTING SAID METHOD |
US5046516A (en) | 1988-10-31 | 1991-09-10 | George Barradas | Hair curling iron |
US5957140A (en) | 1998-11-19 | 1999-09-28 | Mcgee; Robert J. | Hair styling iron for straightening and curling |
EP1174491A2 (en) * | 2000-07-21 | 2002-01-23 | Ekkehardt Hahn | Bleaching and oxidation agents and their use |
WO2003047542A1 (en) * | 2001-12-05 | 2003-06-12 | Unilever Plc | Hair bleaching and colouring composition which comprise trasition metal catalysts |
WO2006106366A1 (en) * | 2005-04-06 | 2006-10-12 | The Boots Company Plc | Improved oxidative hair dyes and related topical compositions |
WO2011000892A2 (en) * | 2009-07-02 | 2011-01-06 | University Of Leeds | Catalysed dye systems |
FR2954098A1 (en) * | 2009-12-23 | 2011-06-24 | Oreal | COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE ORTHODIPHENOL DERIVATIVE A PARTICULAR METAL DERIVATIVE AND ALKALINIZING AGENT FOR COLORING KERATIN FIBERS |
FR3037241A1 (en) * | 2015-06-12 | 2016-12-16 | Oreal | A CAPILLARY COLORING PROCESS USING A TITANIUM SALT, A COLOR, AND A PARTICULAR SOLVENT |
FR3052053A1 (en) * | 2016-06-07 | 2017-12-08 | Henkel Ag & Co Kgaa |
Non-Patent Citations (1)
Title |
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CHARLES ZVIAK: "The Science of Hair Care", 1988, article "Sciences des traitements capillaires", pages: 215,278 |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR3124381B1 (en) | 2024-05-10 |
FR3124381A1 (en) | 2022-12-30 |
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