WO2013092779A2

WO2013092779A2 - Cosmetic composition comprising at least one silicone functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and at least one hygroscopic salt

Info

Publication number: WO2013092779A2
Application number: PCT/EP2012/076255
Authority: WO
Inventors: Grégory Plos; Anne Bouchara
Original assignee: L'oreal
Priority date: 2011-12-20
Filing date: 2012-12-20
Publication date: 2013-06-27
Also published as: FR2984144B1; FR2984144A1; WO2013092779A3

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups, one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals and one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin. The invention also relates to a process for permanently reshaping the hair and to a multicompartment device using these compounds.

Description

COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING AT LEAST ONE SILICONE FUNCTIONALIZED WITH ONE OR MORE MERCAPTO GROUPS AND AT LEAST ONE HYGROSCOPIC SALT

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition used in a process for permanently reshaping the hair comprising at least one silicone functional ized with one or more mercapto groups and at least one hygroscopic salt, to a process for cosmetic treatment of the hair during an operation for permanent reshaping of the hair using said composition, to the use of said composition, and also to kits.

Two techniques are generally used to obtain permanent reshaping of the hair. They are based on breaking the -S-S- disulfide bonds present in keratin (cystine).

The first technique for obtaining permanent reshaping of the hair consists in firstly opening the disulfide bonds using a composition containing a reducing agent (reduction step), and then, after having preferably rinsed the hair, in secondly reconstituting said disulfide bonds by applying to the hair, which has been placed under tension beforehand with rollers or the like or shaped or smoothed by other means, an oxidizing composition, also known as fixative (oxidation step), so as to give the head of hair the desired shape. This technique makes it possible, without distinction, either to wave the hair or to shape, relax, uncurl or straighten it.

The second technique for obtaining permanent reshaping of the hair consists in performing an operation known as lanthionization, using a composition containing a base belonging to the hydroxide family. It results in disulfide bonds (-CH₂-S-S-CH₂-) being replaced with lanthionine bonds (-CH₂-S- CH₂-).

The compositions generally used for carrying out the lanthionization contain, as base, a hydroxide such as sodium hydroxide, guanidinium hydroxide or lithium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide and guanidinium hydroxide are the main two agents used for shaping or relaxing naturally curly hair.

Compared with the first technique described above that uses a reducing agent, this lanthionization technique does not require a fixing step since the formation of the lanthionine bridges is irreversible. It is therefore carried out in a single step. These two techniques make it possible either to wave the hair or to shape, relax, uncurl or straighten it. However, the lanthionization technique is mainly used for shaping naturally curly hair.

There is currently, in certain countries, and in particular in Brazil, a very strong consumer trend towards haircare treatments based on formol. These treatments provide volume control and control of humidity-mediated frizziness, and hair that is straight, well-behaved and easy to style, and that feels repaired, and do so in a long-lasting manner.

Since the use of formol is prohibited owing to its toxic nature, there is a real need to look for nontoxic alternative solutions for obtaining the same effects.

The applicant has discovered that, by applying, to the hair, a cosmetic composition comprising the particular combination of one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and of at least one hygroscopic salt chosen from salts of polyvalent metals, it is possible to give the hair a smooth feel, a decrease in mass and also volume control and control of humidity-mediated frizziness, these effects being persistent for at least 5 shampooing operations, and also an effect of relaxing curls on wavy and frizzy hair. The most notable effect is that the mass of the head of hair becomes finer, which is particularly advantageous in the case of a very frizzy head of hair.

Known, from document GB 1 182 939, is a process for treating the hair, comprising a step of applying a reducing composition, a step of applying an aqueous dispersion of an organic silicone containing at least one mercaptoalkyl substituent, and then an oxidation step. This process makes it possible to provide significant improvements in terms of sheen and body of the hair, and a shaping of the hair that lasts longer with respect to humidity.

Also known, from document US 5 776 454, is a process for permanent shaping of the hair, giving said hair a conditioning effect. This process comprises the incorporation, into the reducing solution and/or into the oxidizing solution, of an emulsion comprising a thiolated silicone, prepared by emulsion polymerization.

Also known, from document EP 0 295 780, is a hair treatment process comprising the application of a reducing composition comprising an organic silicone functionalized with a mercaptoalkyl group, and then the application of an oxidizing composition. This process makes it possible to perform permanent shaping of the hair while at the same time conferring a conditioning effect resistant to washing.

Finally, known, from document JP62255413, is a process for semipermanent shaping of the hair, in which a composition comprising a mercaptosiloxane as main agent is applied. The composition does not comprise an aqueous alkaline solution or an oxidizing agent. The composition is applied at ambient temperature, and then heated.

However, none of the solutions proposed by these documents makes it possible to satisfactorily solve the problems indicated previously.

It has already been proposed to introduce one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups into a reducing composition or into an oxidizing composition of a permanent reshaping process as described in documents W01 1039097, W01 1039098 and FR2950531 .

There is a need to further improve the smooth feel of the hair, the decrease in mass, the volume control and the control of humidity-mediated frizziness, and also the persistence of these effects.

One subject of the invention is therefore a cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups, one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals and one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin.

Another subject of the invention is a device comprising:

- a first compartment containing a first composition comprising one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin and optionally one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and optionally one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals;

- a second compartment containing a second cosmetic composition comprising one or more oxidizing agent(s);

- optionally a third compartment containing a third cosmetic composition comprising one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and optionally one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals; - optionally a fourth compartment containing a fourth cosmetic composition comprising one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals.

Another subject of the invention is a process for permanently reshaping the hair, comprising:

i) a step of breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin, by applying, to the keratin fibres, one or more agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin,

ii) then optionally a fixing step aimed at reclosing said disulfide bonds, by applying an oxidizing composition to the keratin fibres in the case of the use of one or more reducing agents as breaking agent(s),

with the application of one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and the application of one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals carried out in step (i) and/or (ii) and/or in one or two additional steps.

The process may also comprise a step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 220°C, preferably from 80°C to 220°C, more preferentially from 90°C to 200°C, better still from 100°C to 180°C.

The composition according to the invention comprises one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups.

The mercapto group(s) may be located at the ends of the main chain and/or may be pendent.

The silicone according to the invention preferably corresponds to one of the formulae below:

(I)

R'qR3(3-q₎Si-0 -[SiR2(2₎-0-]_m-[SiR'pR2(2-p₎-0]n1-SiR'qR3(3-q)

(III) in which:

Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic, divalent hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with one or more heteroatoms chosen from N, O, S and P, Ri preferably denotes a C1-C100, preferably C1-C10, alkylene group, which is preferably linear, such as propylene,

R' denotes a group R1-SH,

R2 denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R2 preferably denotes a methyl group or a methoxy group,

n ranges from 0 to 132,

ni ranges from 1 to 132,

m ranges from 1 to 132,

p ranges from 0 to 2,

q ranges from 0 to 3,

p+q is greater than or equal to 1 ,

R₃ denotes an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R₃ preferably denotes an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and more preferably a methoxy group.

Preferably, the functionalized silicones defined above have a molecular weight of less than 10 000, preferably between 1000 and 10 000, better still between 1000 and 8000, limits included. Preferably, the silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups corresponds to formula (I), and more preferably to formula (I) in which R₂ and R₃ denote an alkyle group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and even more preferably in which R₂ and R3 denote a methyl group.

As functionalized silicones that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the mercaptosiloxane in which the mercapto functions are at the chain ends, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference X-22-167B, the mercaptosiloxane in which the mercapto functions are pendent, sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference KF-2001 , and the mercaptosiloxanes having chain-end and pendent mercapto functions, sold by the company Shin-Etsu.

The silicone(s) functionalized with one or more mercapto groups is (are) present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, better still from 1 % to 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one hygroscopic salt chosen from salts of polyvalent metals.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hygroscopic salt" means a salt that is capable of absorbing water from the surrounding atmosphere.

The hygroscopic salt(s) used in the cosmetic composition according to the invention absorb at least 0.05 g of water per gram of salt at 25°C, at 25% relative humidity and at atmospheric pressure.

Preferably, the hygroscopic salts of the invention are water-soluble.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "water-soluble salt" means a salt with a solubility of greater than or equal to 20 grams/litre (g/l) in water measured at 20°C, preferentially a solubility of greater than or equal to 100 g/l and even more preferentially a solubility of greater than or equal to 500 g/l .

In particular, the salts of the invention preferably have a solubility in water measured at 20°C ranging from 30 to 45 000 g/l.

The hygroscopic salt(s) used in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from the salts of polyvalent metals and the hydrates thereof, and preferably from the salts of divalent metals, and the hydrates thereof. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "salts of polyvalent metals" means salts of elements from columns 2 to 13 of the Periodic Table (Merck Index 12th edition), in particular calcium, magnesium, manganese, copper, iron, titanium, zinc and cerium.

The salts of divalent metals are preferably salts of elements from column 2 or I la of the Periodic Table.

Preferentially, the salt(s) of divalent metals used in the composition according to the invention are chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromide, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium borogluconate, calcium lactate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenolsulfonate, calcium thiosulfate, calcium acetate, calcium nitrate, calcium bromate, calcium chlorate, calcium nitrate tetrahydrate, calcium nitrite, calcium perchlorate, calcium permanganate, zinc chloride, zinc acetate, aluminium chloride, aluminium bromide, cerous chloride, copper chloride, ferric nitrate, titanium trichloride or gold trichloride, and mixtures thereof.

More preferentially, the salt of a divalent metal used in the composition according to the invention is calcium chloride, calcium lactate or calcium acetate, or mixtures thereof.

The salt(s) of divalent metals used in the composition according to the invention is (are) preferably chosen from inorganic salts of divalent metals and more preferentially from inorganic calcium salts.

Even more preferentially, the salt of a divalent metal used in the composition according to the invention is calcium chloride.

The hygroscopic salt(s) chosen from salts of polyvalent metals used in the composition according to the present invention is (are) preferably present in a content ranging from 1 % to 50% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 1 .5% to 20% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition also comprises one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin.

The agent(s) for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin is (are) chosen from thiolated reducing agents, nonthiolated organic reducing agents, and inorganic or organic hydroxides or precursors thereof. The reducing agents are generally chosen from the reducing agents of formula:

H(X')q(R')r

in which X' represents P, S or SO₂, q is 0 or 1 , r is 1 or 2, and R' is a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon-based (C1-C20) radical optionally interrupted with a heteroatom, and optionally comprising substituents chosen from a hydroxy group, a halogenated group, an amine group or a carboxy group, a ((C1-C30) alkoxy)carbonyl group, an amido group, a ((Ci- C3o)alkyl)aminocarbonyl group, a ((Ci-C3o)acyl)amino group, a monoalkylamino or dialkylamino group, or a monohydroxylamino or dihydroxylamino group, or a salt thereof in combination with a base.

As thiolated reducing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of the thiolated reducing agents chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glyceryl monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N-acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N- acety I cysteine, thiomalic acid, pantetheine, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N- (mercaptoalkyl)-o)-hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto-4- butyramides, aminomercaptoalkylamides, derivatives of N-(mercaptoalkyl)- succinamic acids and of N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinimides, alkylaminomercapto- alkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2- hydroxy-1 -methyl)ethyl thioglycolate, mercaptoalkylaminoamides, N- mercaptoalkylalkanediamides and derivatives of formamidine sulfinic acid, and salts thereof.

The nonthiolated organic reducing agents can be chosen from phosphines, sulfites and sulfinic compounds.

Among the phosphines, mention may be made of monophosphines or diphosphines as described in the FR 28701 19 series.

Borohydrides can also be used as reducing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention. Mention may be made of sodium borohydride or potassium borohydride.

Reducing sugars can also be used as reducing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention. Mention may be made, in a nonlimiting way, of ribose, glucose, maltose, galactose, lactose or xylose. Reductones can also be used as reducing agents that can be used in the composition according to the invention. Mention may be made, in a nonlimiting way, of ascorbic acid and erythorbic acid.

For the purposes of the invention, the expression "inorganic or organic hydroxides" is understood to mean the compounds of structure (X^p+)(OH^")_q with X^p+ denoting an inorganic or organic cation and

p and q being such that the electroneutrality of the compound is respected.

The inorganic or organic hydroxides can be chosen from sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide and guanidine hydroxide.

As organic hydroxide precursors, mention may be made only of guanidine carbonate.

The agent(s) for breaking the disulfide bonds of Keratin generally represent(s) from 0.1 % to 50% by weight and preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention may comprise water. The water may be present in concentrations of between 10% and 90%, better still between 50% and 85%. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents, including more particularly alcohols, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol, benzyl alcohol and phenylethyl alcohol, or polyols or polyol ethers, such as, for example, glycerol, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol and ethers thereof such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol and also diethylene glycol alkyl ethers such as, for example, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether.

The organic solvents may then be present in concentrations of between about 0.1 % and 20% and preferably between about 1 % and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Generally, the composition is in the form of a solution, a dispersion or an emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may comprise one or more cosmetic active agents different from the compounds of the invention. This or these cosmetic active agent(s) is (are) generally chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric and zwitterionic surfactants, swelling agents and penetrants, disulfide compounds of reducing agents, for example dithioglycolic acid, thickening polymers of natural or synthetic origin, fixing polymers, conditioning agents such as cationic polymers, cations, cationic surfactants, silicones other than those of the invention and chitosans and their derivatives, solvents such as propylene glycol or glycerol, fatty substances such as mineral oils, natural oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty amines or fatty esters, direct dyes, in particular cationic or natural dyes, oxidation dyes, organic or mineral pigments, UV-screening agents, fillers, for example nacres, ΤΊΟ₂, resins and clays, fragrances, peptizers, vitamins, amino acids, preservatives and chelating agents.

The surfactants optionally present in the composition according to the invention are especially the following:

(i) Anionic surfactant(s):

The term "anionic surfactant" means a surfactant comprising, as ionic or ionizable groups, only anionic groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups -C(0)OH, -C(0)0-, -SO₃H, -S(0)₂0-, -OS(0)₂OH, -OS(0)₂0-, -P(0)OH₂, -P(0)₂0-, -P(0)0₂-, -P(OH)₂, =P(0)OH, -P(OH)0-, =P(0)0-, =POH, =PO-, the anionic parts comprising a cationic counterion such as an alkali metal, an alkaline-earth metal or an ammonium.

Mention may be made, as examples of anionic surfactants that can be used in the composition according to the invention, of alkyi sulfates, alkyi ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, a- olefinsulfonates, paraffinsulfonates, alkyi sulfosuccinates, alkyi ether sulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkyi sulfoacetates, acyl sarcosinates, acyl glutamates, alkyi sulfosuccinamates, acyl isethionates and N- acyl taurates, salts of alkyi monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyl lactylates, salts of D-galactosideuronic acids, salts of alkyi ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, salts of alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds, the alkyi and acyl groups of all these compounds comprising from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group denoting a phenyl group. These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably comprise from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C6-C2₄ alkyl monoesters of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-citrates, C₆-C₂₄ alkyl polyglycoside-tartrates and C6-C2₄ alkyl polyglycoside-sulfosuccinates.

When the anionic surfactant(s) is (are) in salt form, it (they) may be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium salt and preferably the sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular aminoalcohol salts or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salts.

Examples of aminoalcohol salts that may especially be mentioned include monoethanolamine, diethanolamine and triethanolamine salts, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine or triisopropanolamine salts, 2- amino-2-methyl-1 -propanol salts, 2-amino-2-methyl-1 ,3-propanediol salts and tris(hydroxymethyl)aminomethane salts.

Use is preferably made of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal salts and in particular of sodium or magnesium salts.

Among the anionic surfactants mentioned, use is preferably made of (Ce- C2₄)alkyl sulfates, (C6-C2₄)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds.

In particular, use is preferably made of (Ci2-C2o)alkyl sulfates, (C12- C2o)alkyl ether sulfates comprising from 2 to 20 ethylene oxide units, especially in the form of alkali metal, ammonium, aminoalcohol and alkaline earth metal salts, or a mixture of these compounds. Better still, it is preferred to use sodium lauryl ether sulfate containing 2.2 mol of ethylene oxide.

(ii) Nonionic surfactant(s):

Examples of nonionic surfactants that can be used in the composition used according to the invention are described, for example, in the "Handbook of Surfactants" by M.R. Porter, published by Blackie & Son (Glasgow and London), 1991 , pp. 1 16-178. They are especially chosen from alcohols, a-diols and (Ci-C₂o)alkylphenols, these compounds being polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated and/or polyglycerolated, and containing at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, it being possible for the number of ethylene oxide and/or propylene oxide groups to range in particular from 2 to 50, and for the number of glycerol groups to range in particular from 2 to 30.

Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, optionally oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyoxyalkylenated fatty acid esters, optionally oxyalkylenated alkyl polyglycosides, alkyl glucoside esters, derivatives of N-alkylglucamine and of N- acylmethylglucamine, aldobionamides and amine oxides.

The nonionic surfactants are chosen more particularly from monooxyalkylenated or polyoxyalkylenated or monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylene units are more particularly oxyethylene or oxypropylene units, or a combination thereof, preferably oxyethylene units.

Examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants that may be mentioned include:

" oxyalkylenated (C₈-C₂₄)alkylphenols;

• oxyalkylenated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈-C₃o alcohols;

• oxyalkylenated linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈-C₃o amides;

- esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈-C₃₀ acids and polyethylene glycols;

• polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C₈-C₃o acids and of sorbitol;

• saturated or unsaturated oxyethylenated vegetable oils;

· condensates of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide, inter alia, alone or as mixtures;

• oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylenated silicones.

The surfactants contain a number of moles of ethylene oxide and/or of propylene oxide of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50 and preferably between 2 and 30. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units.

In accordance with a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C₈-C₃o alcohols comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide; and polyoxyethylenated esters of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Cs- C30 acids and of sorbitol comprising from 1 to 100 mol of ethylene oxide.

As examples of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, use is preferably made of monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated Cs- C40 alcohols.

In particular, the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated C₈-C₄₀ alcohols correspond to formula (A7) below:

R290-[CH₂-CH(CH₂OH)-0]_m-H (A7)

in which formula (A7):

R29 represents a linear or branched Cs-C₄o and preferably C8-C30 alkyl or alkenyl radical; and

^■ m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to

10.

As examples of compounds of formula (A7) that are suitable within the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (I NCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Lauryl Ether), lauryl alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol, oleyl alcohol containing 4 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-4 Oleyl Ether), oleyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol (INCI name: Polyglyceryl-2 Oleyl Ether), cetearyl alcohol containing 2 mol of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol containing 6 mol of glycerol, and octadecanol containing 6 mol of glycerol.

The alcohol of formula (A7) may represent a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of m represents a statistical value, which means that, in a commercial product, several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols may coexist in the form of a mixture.

Among the monoglycerolated or polyglycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use a C₈/Ci₀ alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol, a C10/C12 alcohol containing 1 mol of glycerol and a C12 alcohol containing 1 .5 mol of glycerol.

(Hi) Amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s):

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s), which is (are) preferably non- silicone, that can be used in the present invention may in particular be optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. Mention may be made in particular of (C₈-C₂o)alkylbetaines, sulfobetaines, (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines and (C8-C₂o)alkylamido(C6-

Csjalkylsulfobetaines.

Among the optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives that can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the compounds of respective structures (A1 ) and (A2) below:

Ra-C(0)-NH-CH₂-CH₂-N⁺(Rb)(Rc)-CH₂C(0)0^", M⁺, X^" (A1 ) in which formula (A1 ):

Ra represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid RaCOOH preferably present in hydrolysed coconut oil, or a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group;

Rb represents a β-hydroxyethyl group; and

^■ Rc represents a carboxymethyl group;

M⁺ denotes a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; and

■ X^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci - C₄)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate; or alternatively M⁺ and X^" are absent;

Ra'-C(0)-NH-CH₂-CH₂-N(B)(B') (A2)

in which formula (A2):

^■ B represents the group -CH₂-CH₂-0-X';

^■ B' represents the group -(CH₂)_ZY', with z = 1 or 2;

^■X' represents the group -CH₂-C(0)OH, -CH₂-C(0)OZ', -CH₂-CH₂-C(0)OH, or -CH₂-CH₂-C(0)OZ', or a hydrogen atom;

- Y' represents the group -C(0)OH, -C(0)OZ', -CH₂-CH(OH)-S0₃H or the group -CH₂-CH(OH)-S0₃-Z';

^■Z' denotes a cationic counterion derived from an alkali metal or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine; ^■ Ra' represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid Ra'-C(0)OH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular a C17 alkyl group, and its iso form, or an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid and cocoamphodipropionic acid.

Mention may be made, by way of example, of the cocoamphodiacetate sold by the company Rhodia under the trade name Miranol^® C2M Concentrate.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C₈-C₂o)alkylbetaines such as cocobetaine, (C₈- C2o)alkylamido(C3-C8)alkylbetaines such as cocamidopropylbetaine, and mixtures thereof. More preferentially, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant(s) is (are) chosen from cocamidopropylbetaine and cocobetaine.

(iv) Cationic surfactant(s):

The cationic surfactant(s) that can be used in the composition according to the invention comprise(s), for example, optionally polyoxyalkylenated primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, of, for example:

- those corresponding to the general formula (A3) below, and which are different from the surfactants of formula (i):

(A3)

in which formula (A3):

Rs to R11 , which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic group comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, it being understood that at least one of the groups Re to R comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms; and

X^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C )alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C₄)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

The aliphatic groups of Rs to Rn may also comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups of Rs to Rn are chosen, for example, from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxy(C₂-C₆)alkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12- C22)alkylamido(C2-C6)alkyl, (Ci2-C22)alkylacetate and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl groups, and X^" is an anionic counterion chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C )alkyl sulfates, and (Ci-C₄)alkylsulfonates or (Ci- C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (A3), preference is given, firstly, to tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group comprises approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethyl- ammonium or benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides, or else, secondly, to distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoyl- ethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate or distearoylethylhydroxyethyl- ammonium methosulfate, or else, lastly, to palmitylamidopropyltrimethyl- ammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl(myristyl acetate)ammonium chloride, sold under the name Ceraphyl® 70 by the company Van Dyk;

- quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, for instance those of formula (A4) below:

in which formula (A4): Ri₂ represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives;

Ri₃ represents a hydrogen atom, a C₁-C₄ alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms;

Ri4 represents a Ci-C₄ alkyl group;

Ri₅ represents a hydrogen atom or a C₁-C₄ alkyl group;

X^" represents an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci- C₄)alkylsulfonates or (Ci-C₄)alkylarylsulfonates.

Preferably, R₁₂ and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example tallow fatty acid derivatives, Ri₄ denotes a methyl group, and R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is sold, for example, under the name Rewoquat® W 75 by the company Rewo;

- diquaternary ammonium salts or triquaternary ammonium salts, in particular of formula A5) below:

(A5)

in which formula (A5):

R16 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms, which is optionally hydroxylated and/or interrupted with one or more oxygen atoms;

Ri₇ is chosen from hydrogen, an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group -(CH₂)3-N⁺(Ri₆a)(Ri7a)(Ri8a), X^";

Ri6a, i7a, Ri8a, R18, Ri9, R20 and R21 , which may be identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen and an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and

The X^" ions, which may be identical or different, represent an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (Ci-C₄)alkyl sulfates, (Ci-C₄)alkylsulfonates or (Ci- C₄)alkylarylsulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate. Such compounds are, for example, Finquat CT-P, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 89), and Finquat CT, sold by the company Finetex (Quaternium 75);

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as those of formula (A6) below:

in which formula (A6):

R22 is chosen from C1-C6 alkyl and C1 -C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R23 is chosen from:

o

- the group ^{R26 c} ,

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups R27,

- a hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

o

- the group ^R2~c ,

- linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated Ci-C₆ hydrocarbon-based groups R

- a hydrogen atom,

R2₄, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C7-C21 hydrocarbon-based groups,

r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are integers having values from 2 to 6,

r1 and t1 , which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 , with r2+r1 =2r and t1 +t2=2t,

y is an integer having a value from 1 to 10,

x and z, which are identical or different, are integers having values from 0 to 10, X^" denotes an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0, then R23 denotes R27 and that when z is 0, then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 may be linear or branched, and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z has a value from 1 to 10.

When R23 is a hydrocarbon-based group R27, it may be long and may have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or may be short and may have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R25 is a hydrocarbon-based group R29, it preferably contains from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R2₄, R26 and R₂8, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon- based groups, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Preferably, x and z, which may be identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1 .

Advantageously, y is equal to 1 .

Preferably, r, s and t, which may be identical or different, are equal to 2 or

3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anionic counterion X^" is preferably a halide, such as chloride, bromide or iodide; a (CrC )alkyl sulfate or a (CrC₄)alkylsulfonate or (Ci - C₄)alkylarylsulfonate. However, it is possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid, such as acetate or lactate, or any other anion that is compatible with the ammonium containing an ester function.

The anionic counterion X^" is even more particularly chloride, methyl sulfate or ethyl sulfate.

Use is made more particularly in the composition according to the invention of the ammonium salts of formula (A6) in which:

- R22 denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1 ,

- z is equal to 0 or 1 , - r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R23 is chosen from:

0 the group ^{R¾ c}

methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon-based groups,

a hydrogen atom,

- R25 is chosen from:

O the group ^R2^~c

a hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, which may be identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon-based groups, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13- Ci 7 alkyl and alkenyl groups.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon-based radicals are linear.

Among the compounds of formula (A6), examples that may be mentioned include salts, especially the chloride or methyl sulfate, of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethyl- ammonium, monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethylammonium, triacyloxy- ethylmethylammonium or monoacyloxyethylhydroxyethyldimethylammonium, and mixtures thereof. The acyl groups preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and originate more particularly from a vegetable oil, such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these groups may be identical or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, an alkyldiethanolamine or an alkyldiisopropanolamine, which are optionally oxyalkylenated, with fatty acids or with fatty acid mixtures of plant or animal origin, or by transestenfication of the methyl esters thereof. This esterification is followed by a quaternization by means of an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl halide, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably dimethyl or diethyl sulfate, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol chlorohydrin or glycerol chlorohydrin. Such compounds are sold, for example, under the names Dehyquart® by the company Henkel, Stepanquat® by the company Stepan, Noxamium® by the company Ceca or Rewoquat® WE 18 by the company Rewo-Witco.

The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium monoester, diester and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function that are described in patents US-A-4 874 554 and US-A-4 137 180.

Use may be made of behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, sold by Kao under the name Quatarmin BTC 131 .

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants that may be present in the composition according to the invention, it is more particularly preferred to choose cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium and dipalmitoylethyl- hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and mixtures thereof, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride and dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate, and mixtures thereof.

Chelating agents that may be mentioned include diethylenetriaminepentaacetic acid and salts thereof.

The thickener(s) optionally present in the composition according to the invention may be chosen from cellulose-based thickeners, for example hydroxyethyl cellulose, hydroxypropyl cellulose and carboxymethyl cellulose, guar gum and derivatives thereof, for example the hydroxypropyl guar sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105, gums of microbial origin, such as xanthan gum and scleroglucan gum, synthetic thickeners such as crosslinked acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid homopolymers, for example Carbomer, nonionic, anionic, cationic or amphoteric associative polymers, such as the polymers sold under the names Pemulen TR1 or TR2 by the company Goodrich, Salcare SC90 by the company Ciba, Aculyn 22, 28, 33, 44 or 46 by the company Rohm & Haas, and Elfacos T210 and T212 by the company Akzo. Mention may also be made of thickening polymers of polysaccharide type. The pH values of the composition according to the invention can be obtained and/or adjusted conventionally by adding either alkaline agents, such as, for example, aqueous ammonia, monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine, isopropanolamine, 1 ,3-propanediamine, an alkali metal carbonate or bicarbonate or ammonium carbonate or bicarbonate, it being possible of course for all these compounds to be taken alone or as a mixture, or acidifying agents such as, for example, hydrochloric acid, acetic acid, lactic acid, boric acid, citric acid or phosphoric acid.

The pH of the composition ranges preferably from 1 to 13, more preferably from 7 to 1 1 , and better still from 7.5 to 10.

The invention also relates to a process for permanently reshaping the hair, comprising:

According to one embodiment of the process of the invention, the hygroscopic salt(s) chosen from salts of polyvalent metals and the silicone(s) functionalized with one or more mercapto groups are applied to the hair from the same composition.

As a variant, the hygroscopic salt(s) chosen from salts of polyvalent metals and the silicone(s) functionalized with one or more mercapto groups are applied to the hair separately.

The functionalized silicone(s) is (are) introduced into a composition comprising one or more agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin, and/or into the oxidizing composition and/or into an intermediate composition. Preferably, the functional ized silicone(s) is (are) introduced into the composition comprising one or more agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin.

The functional ized silicone(s) can be introduced into one of the abovementioned compositions, just before the application of said compositions to the keratin fibres.

The functionalized silicone(s) may be introduced into one of the abovementioned compositions either in pure form, or in the presence of one or more silicone-based or hydrocarbon-based solvents, or in the form of a latex.

The content of functionalized silicone in one of the abovementioned compositions generally ranges from 0.1 % to 50%, preferably from 0.5% to 5% and better still from 1 % to 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition containing it.

The hygroscopic salt is introduced into the composition comprising one or more agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin, and/or into the oxidizing composition and/or into a composition which comprises neither the agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin nor the oxidizing agent, and which may or may not contain the functionalized silicone(s).

Preferably, the hygroscopic salt is introduced into the composition comprising one or more agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin. More preferably, the hygroscopic salt is introduced into the composition comprising one or more agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin and the functionalized silicone(s).

When the salt is introduced into a composition which comprises neither the agents for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin nor the oxidizing agent, the composition may be a care composition which can be applied as a pretreatment or as a post-treatment for a treatment with a composition comprising a reducing agent. The care composition may be in the form of a lotion, a cream, a mousse, a gel or a spray.

When the reducing composition contains the silicone according to the invention, it may be in the form of a dispersion. It is then stirred before use. The reducing composition may also be in the form of an emulsion that is sufficiently homogeneous to be applied directly to the hair. The composition comprising an agent for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin may be in liquid form or in thickened form. It may be applied from a squeeze bottle, by brush or directly from the tube.

Generally, the composition comprising an agent for breaking disulfide bonds of keratin is left on for 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 10 minutes to 30 minutes. After the optional leave-on time, the hair may be rinsed, preferably with water.

The oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention generally comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, and adsorbed or non-adsorbed metal salts.

Preferably, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in the form of aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution, or alkali metal bromates. Even more preferentially, the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in the form of aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.

The oxidizing agent(s) generally represent(s) from 0.1 % to 8% and preferably from 0.2% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

When the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide in aqueous solution, the oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention preferably contains at least one stabilizer of aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution.

Mention may be made in particular of alkali metal or alkaline earth metal pyrophosphates, such as tetrasodium pyrophosphate, alkali metal or alkaline earth metal stannates, phenacetin or salts of acids and of oxyquinoline, for instance oxyquinoline sulfate (8-hydroxyquinoline sulfate). Even more advantageously, use is made of at least one stannate optionally in combination with at least one pyrophosphate.

The stabilizer(s) of aqueous hydrogen peroxide solution generally represent from 0.0001 % to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.01 % to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the oxidizing composition.

The oxidizing composition used in the process according to the invention may also comprise one or more cosmetic active agents, such as those mentioned above with regard to the composition according to the invention.

The oxidizing composition may be in liquid form or in thickened form. Generally, the pH of the oxidizing composition ranges from 1 to 13 and preferably from 1 .5 to 8.

When the oxidizing agent is hydrogen peroxide, the pH of the oxidizing composition preferentially ranges from 1 .5 to 5.

Generally, the oxidizing composition is left on for 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably for 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The various compositions used in the process according to the invention may contain water and one or more organic solvents as mentioned above.

As explained previously, the process according to the invention may comprise, and preferably comprises, a step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 220°C, after application of the composition according to the invention.

This heating step makes it possible to enhance the particular effect of the composition according to the invention.

The step of heating the hair may be performed by drying the hair and/or by treating it with a heating appliance. In particular, the heating step may be performed using a hairdryer, a hood, a straightening iron, a curling iron, a crimping iron, a waving iron, an infrared lamp or an exothermic system in the composition. Preferably, the heating step is performed using a straightening iron.

According to one preferred embodiment, the step of heating the hair is performed at a temperature ranging from 80°C to 220°C, preferably from 90°C to 200°C and better still from 100°C to 180°C.

The heating step can be carried out just after the step of applying the composition comprising an agent for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin or after the fixing step, or else after each of these steps.

Generally, the process according to the invention comprises, after the step of fixing by oxidation, and after an optional leave-on time, a step of rinsing the hair, preferably with water.

One particular process according to the invention consists in applying the composition according to the invention several times, optionally interspersing one or more cosmetic treatments, in particular a shampooing operation, until the desired treatment intensity is obtained. When it is desired to carry out a permanent-wave operation, mechanical means for placing the hair under tension, such as rollers, are preferably used.

In the context of a permanent-wave process, the steps below are followed.

Shampooing can be carried out followed by rinsing.

Preferably, the composition containing one or more reducing agents as defined above is applied to dry or wet, optionally shampooed, hair rolled beforehand onto rollers having a diameter of from 2 to 30 mm. The composition may also be applied gradually as the hair is rolled up.

Generally, the reducing composition is then left to act for a period of 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes. Rinsing may then be performed.

Optionally, an intermediate rinse-off or leave-on composition optionally comprising one or more silicones functional ized with one or more mercapto groups and optionally one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals is then applied.

An oxidizing composition for reforming the disulfide bonds of keratin is then applied to the rolled-up or unrolled hair, generally for a leave-on time of 1 minute to one hour. The head of hair is generally thoroughly rinsed, preferably with water. Final shampooing can be carried out.

Optionally, a care composition comprising a hygroscopic salt chosen from salts of polyvalent metals is then applied.

A step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 220°C is preferably carried out as indicated above.

In the context of a hair relaxing or uncurling process, the steps below are followed, using a composition comprising one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin.

Shampooing can be carried out followed by rinsing.

When it is desired to relax or uncurl the hair, the composition containing one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin is applied to dry or wet hair.

The composition is optionally left on for a period of 5 minutes to 1 hour, preferably for 5 to 30 minutes, and then the hair is rinsed in order to remove the composition. The hair is straightened or uncurled generally using a comb. Rinsing may then be performed.

Then, when a composition comprising one or more reducing agents has been used, the oxidizing composition as defined above is then applied, and is generally left to act for 1 minute to one hour, and then the hair is generally thoroughly rinsed, generally with water.

Final shampooing may optionally be carried out.

Another subject of the invention is a device comprising:

- optionally a third compartment containing a third cosmetic composition comprising one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and optionally one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals;

- optionally a fourth compartment containing a fourth cosmetic composition comprising one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals.

The invention is illustrated by the following examples.

The following compositions were prepared, the amounts of which are expressed as percentage of materials in their given state by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition:

Example 1 = Reference 1 Composition comprising a reducing agent

* sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference X-22-167B ** sold by the company Rhodia under the reference Jaguar HP 105 Example 2 according to the invention

Composition comprising a reducing agent

* sold by the company Shin-Etsu under the reference X-22-167B The calcium chloride is introduced directly into the composition containing a reducing agent and a mercaptosiloxane.

The compositions are applied according to the following protocol:

- shampooing

- impregnation of the hair: on half a head with the composition of Example 1 , on the other half a head with the composition of Example 2

- left on for 15 min

- rinsing

- application of a Dulcia Vital DV2 oxidizing solution, 8 volumes, for 5 minutes - rinsing

- predrying of the hair with a hairdryer

- application of a straightening iron.

A panel of expert hairstylists evaluated the head of hair according to the following criteria on a scale of marks of 0 to 5 (0 = the criterion is not present, 5 = the criterion is very present).

The heads of hair of the 10 models are evaluated on the day of application.

On wet hair:

On the half of the head of hair having received the treatment with the composition of Example 2, the wet hair exhibits, compared with the half of the head of hair having received the treatment with the composition of Example 1 :

- better disentangling (+0.5 pts)

- a more coated feel (+0.6 pts)

- a softer feel (+0.6 pts)

- On dry hair:

On the half of the head of hair having received the treatment with the composition of Example 2, the hair, after drying, exhibits, compared with the half of the head of hair having received the treatment with the composition of Example 1 :

- a smoother feel (+0.5 pts)

- greater suppleness (+0.6 pts)

- a softer feel (+0.8 pts)

- a more coated feel (+0.5 pts)

- greater manageability (+0.7 pts) The heads of hair of the 10 models are then evaluated after, on average, 9 shampooing operations.

On dry hair:

- roots more lifted (+0.5 pts)

- curls more individualized (+0.7 pts)

- hair more individualized (+0.6 pts)

- greater lightness (+0.5 pts)

In the detailed description above, reference was made to preferred embodiments of the invention. It is obvious that variants can be introduced therein without departing from the invention as claimed hereinbelow.

Claims

1 . - Cosmetic composition for treating keratin fibres, comprising one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups, one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals and one or more agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin.

2. - Composition according to Claim 1 , characterized in that the mercapto group(s) is (are) located at the ends of the main chain and/or are pendent.

3. - Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the silicone functionalized with one or more mercapto groups located at the ends of the main chain corresponds to the formula below:

in which:

Ri denotes a saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, optionally cyclic, hydrocarbon-based chain comprising from 1 to 100 carbon atoms, optionally interrupted with a heteroatom chosen from N, O, S and P,

R₂ and R3 denote an alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or an alkoxy group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably a methyl group, it being possible for R₂ and R3 to be identical or different, and

n ranges from 0 to 132.

4. - Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the silicone functionalized with one or more pendent mercapto groups corresponds to the formula below:

in which:

Ri and R2 are as defined in Claim 2, and

ni ranges from 1 to 132 and m ranges from

5. - Composition according to Claim 2, characterized in that the silicone functionalized with one or more pendent and chain-end mercapto groups corresponds to the formula below:

R'qR3(3-q)Si-0 -[SiR2(2)-0-]_m-[SiR'pR2(2-p)-0]n1-SiR'qR3(3_-q)

(Ml) in which:

R' denotes a group R1-SH,

Ri , R2 and R₃ are as defined in Claim 2,

ni and m range from 1 to 132,

p ranges from 0 to 2,

q ranges from 0 to 3,

p+q is greater than or equal to 1 .

6. - Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the functionalized silicones have a molecular weight of less than 10 000, preferably between 1000 and 10 000, more particularly between 1000 and 8000, limits included.

7. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of functionalized silicone ranges from 0.1 % to 10%, preferably from 0.5% to 5%, better still from 1 % to 2% by weight, of the total weight of the composition.

8. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hygroscopic salt(s) is (are) chosen from the water-soluble salts of divalent metals, and the hydrates thereof.

9. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hygroscopic salt(s) is (are) chosen from calcium iodide, calcium bromide, calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium borogluconate, calcium lactate, calcium cyclamate, calcium levulinate, calcium phenolsulfonate, calcium thiosulfate, calcium acetate, calcium nitrate, calcium bromate, calcium chlorate, calcium nitrate tetrahydrate, calcium nitrite, calcium perchlorate, calcium permanganate, zinc chloride, zinc acetate, aluminium chloride, cerous chloride, copper chloride, ferric nitrate, titanium trichloride or gold trichloride, and more preferentially from calcium chloride, calcium gluconate, calcium lactate and calcium acetate, or mixtures thereof.

10. - Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hygroscopic salt(s) is (are) chosen from inorganic salts of divalent metals and preferably from inorganic calcium salts, and even more preferentially from calcium chloride.

1 1 . - Cosmetic composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the hygroscopic salt(s) chosen from salts of polyvalent metals is (are) present in a content ranging from 1 % to 50% by weight, in particular in a content ranging from 1 .5% to 20% by weight and better still in a content ranging from 2% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of said cosmetic composition.

12. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent(s) for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin is (are) chosen from thiolated reducing agents, nonthiolated organic reducing agents, and inorganic or organic hydroxides or precursors thereof.

13. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agents for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin are chosen from thioglycolic acid, thiolactic acid, glyceryl monothioglycolate, cysteamine, N- acetylcysteamine, N-propionylcysteamine, cysteine, N-acetylcysteine, thiomalic acid, pantetheine, 2,3-dimercaptosuccinic acid, N-(mercaptoalkyl)-ijo- hydroxyalkylamides, N-mono- or N,N-dialkylmercapto-4-butyramides, amino- mercaptoalkylamides, derivatives of N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinamic acids and of N-(mercaptoalkyl)succinimides, alkylaminomercaptoalkylamides, the azeotropic mixture of 2-hydroxypropyl thioglyconate and (2-hydroxy-1 -methyl)ethyl thioglycolate, mercaptoalkylaminoamides, N-mercaptoalkylalkanediamides and derivatives of formamidine sulfinic acid, and salts thereof, phosphines, sulfites and sulfinic compounds, sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, calcium hydroxide, guanidine hydroxide and guanidine carbonate.

14. - Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the agent(s) for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin represent(s) from 0.1 % to 50% by weight and preferably from 1 % to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

15. - Device comprising:

16. - Device according to Claim 15, in which the agent(s) for breaking the disulfide bonds of keratin is (are) chosen from thiolated reducing agents, nonthiolated organic reducing agents, and inorganic or organic hydroxides or precursors thereof.

17. - Process for permanently reshaping the hair, comprising:

with the application of one or more silicones functionalized with one or more mercapto groups and the application of one or more hygroscopic salts chosen from salts of polyvalent metals carried out in step (i) and/or (ii) and/or in one or two additional steps;

the process optionally comprising a step of heating the hair at a temperature ranging from 60°C to 220°C, preferably from 80°C to 220°C, more preferentially from 90°C to 200°C, better still from 100°C to 180°C.

18. - Process according to Claim 17, characterized in that the hygroscopic salt(s) chosen from salts of polyvalent metals and the silicone(s) functionalized with one or more mercapto groups are applied to the hair from the same composition or separately.

19. - Process according to either one of Claims 17 and 18, characterized in that the oxidizing composition comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, alkali metal bromates, polythionates, persalts, such as perborates, percarbonates and persulfates, adsorbed or non-adsorbed metal salts, and enzymes of the 2-electron oxidase family, and preferably hydrogen peroxide.