FR3115693A1 - ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND/OR MAKEUP OF KERATIN MATERIALS - Google Patents

Abstract

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND/OR MAKE-UP OF KERATIN MATERIALS The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition intended for the care and/or makeup of keratin materials comprising: a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil optionally having a dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (I) below: in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl; b) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (II) below: in which Me is a methyl and Ph is a phenyl, OR' represents an -OSiMe 3 group and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000 and c) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers; in which the weight ratio of the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1. The present invention also relates to a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and lips, comprising the application of the anhydrous composition according to the present invention to the keratin materials. Figure for the abstract: none

Description

ANHYDROUS COMPOSITION FOR THE CARE AND/OR MAKEUP OF KERATIN MATERIALS

The present invention relates to an anhydrous composition intended for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

The present invention also relates to a process intended for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

STATE OF THE ART

Compositions for caring for and/or making up the skin and/or the lips are produced to satisfy the need for moistening or hydrating the skin and the lips.

Many lipsticks will migrate, that is to say spin at the level of the fine lines of the lips after the application.

To date, certain prior art documents relating to cosmetic compositions intended for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips have been published.

WO 2013/191300 describes a solid cosmetic composition for making up and/or caring for the skin and/or the lips, comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, at least one fatty phase comprising:

- from 5 to 30% by weight (a) of non-volatile hydrocarbon-based apolar oils, or of one of their mixtures, relative to the total weight of the composition,

- from 43 to 90% by weight of the total content of (a) non-volatile silicone oil(s) relative to the total weight of the composition, in which at least one of said non-volatile silicone oil(s) volatile(s) is a non-volatile phenyl silicone oil and

- from 3 to 30% by weight of (a) wax(es) or of a mixture of the latter, relative to the total weight of the composition,

WO 2012/165130 discloses a cosmetic for the lips which is characterized in that it comprises: (a) 5 to 30% by mass of hydrogenated polyisobutene; (b) 30 to 70% by weight of one or more types of methylphenylsilicones separating when mixed with (a) at 25°C; (c) 0.5 to 15% by weight of an oil separating when: mixed with (a) at 25°C; and mixed with (b) at 25°C; and (d) 4 to 12% by weight of a wax:

In general, when women use makeup products, especially lip products such as lipstick or lip gloss, they expect the lip products to be stable and have good application properties such that glides on easily and leaves a deposit with a good level of shine on the lips. It is desirable that the products do not migrate easily after application.

Consequently, there is still a need to obtain care and/or makeup products for keratin materials such as the skin and the lips which are stable and have good gliding properties and which will leave a shiny deposit with good resistance. migration to keratin materials such as skin and lips.

One of the objects of the present invention is, consequently, to provide care and/or makeup products for keratin materials such as the skin and the lips which are stable and have good gliding properties and which will leave a deposit gloss with good resistance to migration on keratin materials such as skin and lips.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, preferably the lips.

Consequently, according to one aspect, the present invention provides an anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials comprising:

a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil optionally having a dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl;

a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (II) below:

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'is -OSiMe ₃ and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000 and

c) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers;

wherein the weight ratio of non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1.

According to another aspect, the present invention proposes a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, comprising the application of the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

It has surprisingly been found that the anhydrous composition obtained exhibits good gliding quality and leaves a glossy deposit exhibiting good resistance to migration on keratin materials such as the skin and the lips.

Furthermore, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is stable, that is to say it remains active after remaining at 20° C., 37° C. and 45° C. for 2 months.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

As used in this document, unless otherwise specified, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions "between...and..." and "from...to ." ..”

As used herein, the term "comprising" shall be construed to encompass all specifically mentioned features as well as optional, additional and unspecified features.

As used herein, the term "comprising" also refers to the embodiment in which no feature other than the specifically mentioned features is present (i.e. "consisting of").

Unless otherwise indicated, all technical and scientific terms used herein have the same meaning as commonly understood by one of ordinary skill in the art to which this invention pertains. Where the definition of a term in this description conflicts with the meaning commonly understood by those skilled in the art in the field to which this invention pertains, the definition described in this description will apply.

Unless otherwise indicated, all numerical values expressing the quantity of ingredients and similar values used in the description and the claims are to be understood as being modified by the term “about”. Therefore, unless otherwise stated, the numerical values and parameters described herein are approximate values which may be modified according to the desired performance obtained, if necessary.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “anhydrous” means that the composition according to the present invention contains less than 2% by weight and preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition. If necessary, these small amounts of water can be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain it in residual quantity, but are not deliberately provided.

As used herein, the term "keratin materials" refers to skin and lips. By "skin" we mean all the skin of the body, including the scalp. Preferably, the keratin material is that of the lips.

The anhydrous care and/or makeup composition for keratin materials according to the present invention comprises:

a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil optionally having a dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl;

a) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (II) below:

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' represents an -OSiMe ₃ group and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000 and m is between 1 and 1000 and

c) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers;

wherein the weight ratio of non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1.

In certain embodiments, the anhydrous composition according to the present invention is solid.

The term “solid” used herein means that the hardness of the composition at 20° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm ⁻¹ when measured according to the protocol described below.

The composition whose hardness is to be determined is kept at 20°C for 24 hours before measuring the hardness.

Hardness can be measured at 20°C by the "cheese wire" method, which involves cutting a rod of product, which is preferably a circular cylinder, crosswise by means of a rigid tungsten wire of 250 µ in diameter, by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm/minute.

The hardness of the samples of the compositions of the present invention, expressed in Nm ⁻¹ , is measured using a DFGS2 tensile testing machine from the company Indelco-Chatillon.

The measurement is repeated three times and then averaged. The average of the three shear values read using the tensile testing machine mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted into Newtons and then divided by L which represents the longest distance the wire passes through. In the case of a cylindrical rod, L is equal to the diameter (in meters).

The hardness is converted into Nm ^-1 by the equation below:

(Y × 10 ^-3 × 9.8)/L

For a measurement at a different temperature, the composition is kept for 24 hours at this new temperature before the measurement.

According to this measurement method, the composition according to the present invention preferably has a hardness at 20° C. and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 40 Nm ^-1 and preferably greater than 55 Nm ^-1 .

Preferably, the composition according to the present invention has in particular a hardness at 20° C. of less than 200 Nm ^-1 , in particular less than 150 Nm ^-1 and preferably less than 100 Nm ^-1 .

Advantageously, the composition has a shear value between 50 and 90 gF and preferably 65 to 80 gF. Thus, the composition can be formulated in standard packaging requiring no means of composition support.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oil(s)

According to one aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) and at least one second non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II).

The term “oil” refers to a non-aqueous, water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The term “non-volatile” designates an oil whose vapor pressure at 25°C and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and is less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 ^-3 mmHg (0 .13 Pa).

The term “ silicone oil ” designates an oil containing at least one silicone atom, in particular containing Si—Os groups.

The expression “phenyl silicone oil” denotes a silicone oil bearing at least one phenyl substituent.

These non-volatile phenyl silicone oils can be chosen from those having at least one dimethicone fragment, or from those not having any.

According to the present invention, a dimethicone fragment corresponds to the following unit:

-Si(CH ₃ ) ₂ -O-.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils optionally having a dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (I):

wherein the R groups independently represent methyl or phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents phenyl.

Preferably, the phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) comprises at least three, at least four or at least five phenyl groups.

Mixtures of different phenylorganopolysiloxane compounds described above can be used.

Mention may be made, as examples, of mixtures of triphenyl-, tetraphenyl- or pentaphenyl-organopolysiloxanes.

Among the compounds of formula (I), mention may more particularly be made of phenyl silicone oils not having dimethicone fragments, corresponding to formula (I) in which at least 4 or at least 5 radicals R represent a phenyl radical, the radicals remainder representing methyls.

Such non-volatile phenyl silicone oils are preferably trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. They are notably marketed by Dow Corning under the reference PH-1555 HRI or Dow Corning ® 555 Cosmetic Fluid (chemical name: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI designation: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane) , the tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane sold under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used: 1,3,5-trimethyl-1,1,3,5,5-pentaphenyltrisiloxane; INCI name: trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane), or tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane marketed under the reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid by Dow Corning can also be used.

They correspond in particular to formulas (Ia) and (Ib) below:

wherein Me represents methyl and Ph represents phenyl.

According to certain embodiments, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is chosen from trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane

Preferably, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is present in an amount ranging from 1% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 2% by weight to 20% by weight and even better still from 5% by weight to 12% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Non-volatile phenyl silicone oils optionally having at least one dimethicone fragment corresponding to formula (II):

in which Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR 'represents an -OSiMe ₃ group and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000. In particular, m and p are such that the phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is a non-volatile oil.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) has at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that compound (II) is a non-volatile oil. Trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone, marketed in particular under the reference Belsil PDM 1000 by the company Wacker, can, for example, be used.

According to one embodiment, the non-volatile phenyl silicone of formula (II) has no dimethicone fragment, p is equal to 0 and m is between 1 and 1000, more particularly m is such that the compound (II) is a non-volatile oil.

Phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane, in particular marketed under the reference Dow Corning® 556 Cosmetic Grade Fluid (DC556), can for example be used.

According to certain embodiments, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is selected from phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane and from trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone.

Preferably, the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is present in an amount ranging from 2% by weight to 40% by weight, preferably from 6% by weight to 30% by weight and better still from 10% by weight to 24% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cellulose ethers

According to one aspect, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers.

Non-limiting examples of cellulose ethers include methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose, methylethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose (cellulose gum), ethylcarboxymethylcellulose, hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylhydroxyethylcellulose, methylhydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylmethylcellulose, ethyl hydroxyethylcellulose, methylethylhydroxyethylcellulose and a mixture thereof.

In certain preferred embodiments, at least one film-forming polymer is chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose and methylethylcellulose.

As a commercial example of cellulose ether, mention may be made of AQUALON™ EC N7 PHARM (ethylcellulose) available from the company ASHLAND.

Preferably, the film-forming polymer is present in an amount of between 0.5% and 10% by weight, preferably between 1% and 8% by weight, better still between 2% and 6% by weight, relative to the total weight of composition.

Additional oils

The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may further comprise one or more additional oils in addition to the non-volatile phenyl silicone oils described above.

The additional oils can be non-volatile oils and/or volatile oils.

The term “volatile oil” designates any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin or the lips in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. Specifically, a volatile oil has an evaporation rate between 0.01 and 200 mg/cm2/min, limits included.

The oils can be a silicone oil, a fluorinated oil, a hydrocarbon oil or a mixture of the latter.

The term “fluorinated oil” designates an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and/or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

The silicone oil and the fluorinated oil can be chosen from polar oils, apolar oils or mixtures thereof.

Polar oils that can be used as a supplemental oil can be "hydrocarbon oils".

Within the meaning of the present invention, the term “polar oil” denotes a solubility parameter in oil at 25° C., δa, is different from 0 (J/cm ³ ) ^1/2 .

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one additional oil chosen from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone, and mixtures thereof.

When it exists, the additional oil or oils are present in the composition according to the present invention in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 40% by weight to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Advantageously, the total amount of all the oils is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 50% by weight to 80% by weight, preferably from 60% by weight to 75% by weight, relative to the weight composition total.

The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may also comprise an additional oil of at least one wax and/or at least one colorant.

Raincoats)

The wax examined in the context of the present invention is generally a lipophilic compound which is solid at room temperature (25°C), with a reversible solid/liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30°C, of preferably greater than or equal to 40°C, which can range up to 200°C and in particular up to 120°C.

The waxes used in the present invention include waxes of animal origin, waxes of vegetable origin, waxes of mineral origin, synthetic waxes and various fractions of waxes of natural origin.

Animal waxes include, but are not limited to, beeswax, spermaceti wax, lanolin wax, lanolin derivatives and Chinese insect waxes. Vegetable waxes include, but are not limited to, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, uricurry wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, cocoa butter, Japan and staghorn wax. Mineral waxes include, in particular, montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins, ozokerite, petroleum jelly and ceresin. Synthetic waxes include, in particular, polyethylene homopolymer and copolymer waxes, synthetic beeswax, waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and silicone waxes.

Waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils, with linear or branched C ₈ -C ₃₂ fatty chains, as well as fatty esters and glycerides are also used.

Waxes also include silicone waxes, among which mention may be made of alkyls, alkoxys and/or polymethylsiloxane esters. The waxes can be in the form of stable dispersions of colloidal wax particles, according to known methods, such as "Microemulsions Theory and Practice", LM Prince Ed., Academic Press (1977), pages 21-32. Montan wax can also be used.

The waxes useful in the composition according to the present invention can provide one or more of the following properties, including, but not limited to, swelling, texture and a degree of water resistance. Waxes should not substantially reduce the gloss properties of a gloss film former, if any.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the wax used in the present invention is chosen from synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, VP/eicosene copolymer, and mixtures thereof.

Where appropriate, the wax may be present in an amount of between 5% and 30% by weight, preferably between 7% and 20% by weight, better still between 8% and 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Colorant(s)

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “dye” designates a compound capable of producing a colored optical effect when it is formulated in sufficient quantity in an appropriate cosmetic medium.

The dye under consideration in the context of the present invention can be chosen from water-soluble or water-insoluble, fat-soluble or non-fat-soluble, organic or inorganic dyes, and materials with an optical effect, and mixtures thereof.

Water-soluble dyes

The water-soluble dyes used according to the present invention are more particularly water-soluble dyes.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “water-soluble dye” designates any natural or synthetic compound, generally organic, which is soluble in an aqueous phase or in water-miscible solvents and which is capable of imparting color. In particular, the term "water-soluble" is intended to characterize the capacity of a compound to dissolve in water, measured at 25°C, at a concentration at least equal to 0.1 g/l (production of a solution macroscopically isotropic, transparent, colored or colorless). This solubility is in particular greater than or equal to 1 g/l.

As water-soluble dyes which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes, for example FD&C Red 4 (CI: 14700), DC Red 6 (Lithol Rubine Na; CI: 15850), DC Red 22 (CI: 45380), DC Red 28 (CI: 45410 Na salt), DC Red 30 (CI: 73360), DC Red 33 (CI: 17200), DC Orange 4 (CI: 15510), FDC Yellow 5 (CI: 19140), FDC Yellow 6 (CI: 15985), DC Yellow 8 (CI: 45350 Na salt), FDC Green 3 (CI: 42053), DC Green 5 (CI: 61570), FDC Blue 1 (CI: 42090).

By way of non-limiting illustrations of sources of water-soluble dye(s) that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made, in particular, of those of natural origin, such as extracts of cochineal carmine, beet , grape, carrot, tomato, annatto, paprika, henna, caramel and curcumin.

Consequently, the water-soluble dyes that can be used in the present invention are in particular carminic acid, betanin, anthocyanins, enocyanins, lycopene, β-carotene, bixin, norbixin, capsanthin, capsorubin, flavoxanthin, lutein, cryptoxanthin, rubixanthin, violaxanthin, riboflavin, rhodoxanthin, cantaxanthin and chlorophyll, and mixtures thereof.

It can also be copper sulphate, iron sulphate, water-soluble sulphopolyesters, rhodamine, betaine, methylene blue, the disodium salt of tartrazine and the disodium salt of fuchsin.

Some of these water-soluble dyes are approved for food use in particular. Among the representatives of these dyes, mention may be made more particularly of the dyes of the carotenoid family, referenced under the food codes E120, E162, E163, E160a-g, E150a, E101, E100, E140 and E141.

Pigments

The term “pigments” should be understood as designating white or colored particles, inorganic (mineral) or organic, insoluble in a liquid organic phase, and intended to color and/or opacify the composition and/or the deposit made with the composition .

The pigments can be chosen from mineral pigments, organic pigments and composite pigments (that is to say pigments based on mineral and/or organic materials).

The pigments can be chosen from monochromatic pigments, lakes and optical effect pigments, for example goniochromatic pigments and nacres.

The mineral pigments can be chosen from metal oxide pigments such as chromium oxides, iron oxides (black, yellow, red), titanium dioxide, zinc oxides, cerium oxides and oxides of zirconium, chromium hydrate, manganese violet, Prussian blue, ultramarine blue, ferric blue, SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, metallic powders such as aluminum and copper powders, and mixtures thereof.

Organic lakes are organic pigments formed from a dye attached to a substrate.

Lacquers, also called organic pigments, can be chosen from the materials below and their mixtures:

- cochineal carmine;

- the organic pigments of azo dyes, anthraquinone dyes, indigoid dyes, xanthene dyes, pyrene dyes, quinoline dyes, triphenylmethane dyes or fluorane dyes.

Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Blue No. 4, D&C Brown No. 1, D&C Green No. 5, D&C Green No. 6, D&C Orange No. 4, D&C Orange No. 5, D&C Orange No. 10, D&C Orange No. 11, D&C Red No. 6, D&C Red No. 7, D&C Red No. 17, D&C Red No. 21, D&C Red No. 22, D&C Red No. 27, D&C Red No. 28, D&C Red No. 30, D&C Red No. 31, D&C Red No. 33, D&C Red No. 34, D&C Red No. 36, D&C Violet No. 2, D&C Yellow No. 7, D&C Yellow No. 8, D&C Yellow No. 10, D&C Yellow No. 11, FD&C Blue No. 1, FD&C Green No. 3, FD&C Red No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6;

- the organic lakes can be insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminium, zirconium, strontium or titanium of acid dyes such as azo, anthraquinone, indigoid, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane or fluorane dyes, these dyes comprising optionally at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group.

Organic lacquers can also be supported on an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate for example.

Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D&C Red No. 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 7 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Calcium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Barium/Strontium lake, D&C Red No. 9 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 19 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 22 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 27 Aluminum/Titanium/Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Barium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 27 Zirconium lake, D&C Red No. 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 30 lake, D&C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red No. 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red No .36 lake, D&C Red No. 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green No. 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Orange No. 10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange No. 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue No. 1 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 4 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red No. 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum lake and FD&C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum lake.

Mention may also be made of fat-soluble dyes, such as Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, β-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, DC Orange 5 and quinoline yellow.

The chemical substances corresponding to each of the organic dyes mentioned above are mentioned in the publication “International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook”, 1997 edition, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by “The Cosmetic, Toiletries and Fragrance Association” , the content of which is incorporated into this patent application by reference.

The pigments may also have been subjected to a hydrophobic treatment.

The hydrophobic treatment agent can be chosen from silicones such as methicones, dimethicones, alkoxysilanes and perfluoroalkylsilanes; fatty acids such as stearic acid; metallic soaps such as aluminum dimyristate, aluminum salt of hydrogenated tallow glutamate, perfluoroalkyl phosphates, perfluoroalkylsilanes, perfluoroalkylsilazanes, polyhexafluoropropylene oxides, polyorganosiloxanes comprising perfluoroalkyl perfluoropolyether groups and amino acids; N-acylamino acids or their salts; lecithin, isopropyl 1-triisostearyl titanate and mixtures thereof.

The N-acylamino acids can comprise an acyl group containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, such as for example a 2-ethylhexanoyl, caproyl, lauroyl, myristoyl, palmitoyl, stearoyl or cocoyl group. The salts of these compounds can be aluminum, magnesium, calcium, zirconium, zinc, sodium or potassium salts. The amino acid can be, for example, lysine, glutamic acid or alanine.

The term "alkyl" mentioned in the compounds cited above denotes in particular an alkyl group containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms and preferably containing from 5 to 16 carbon atoms.

Pigments treated to be rendered hydrophobic are described in particular in patent application EP-A-1 086 683.

mother-of-pearl

For the purposes of this patent application, the term "mother-of-pearl" designates colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell, or else synthesized, and which have a color effect via optical interference.

As examples of nacres, mention may be made of pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with of an organic dye, in particular of the aforementioned type, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

They may also be particles of mica, on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and/or dyes.

The nacres may more particularly have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and/or copper color or tint.

As illustrations of nacres capable of being introduced as interference pigments in the first composition, mention may be made of the golden nacres marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Brilliant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica) and Monarch gold 233X (cloisonne); the nacres of bronze marketed in particular by the company Merck under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company BASF under the name Super bronze (Cloisonne); the orange nacres marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and by the company Merck under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the brown-tinted nacres marketed in particular by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chroma-lite); the copper nacres marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-tinted nacres marketed in particular by the company MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres tinted with yellow marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the gold-tinted red nacres marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres marketed in particular by the company BASF under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); gold-tinted black mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company BASF under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue mother-of-pearl in particular sold by the company Merck under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), tinted white mother-of-pearl sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the pink-orange green-gold nacres marketed in particular by the company Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

Goniochromatic pigments

For the purposes of the present invention, the term “goniochromatic pigment” designates a pigment which makes it possible to obtain, when the composition is spread on a support, a color trajectory in the a*b* plane of the CIE 1976 colorimetric space which corresponds to a variation Dh° of the shading angle h° of at least 20° when the observation angle relative to the normal is varied between 0° and 80°, for an incident light angle of 45° .

The color trajectory can be measured, for example, using an Instrument Systems reference GON 360 Goniometer spectrogonioreflectometer, after the composition has been spread in fluid form to a thickness of 300 μ at the using an automatic spreader on an Erichsen brand reference Typ 24/5 contrast card, the measurement being taken on the black background of the card.

The goniochromatic pigment can be chosen for example from multilayer interference structures and liquid crystal dyes.

In the case of a multilayer structure, it can comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being, for example, made of at least one material chosen from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF ₂ , CeF ₃ , ZnS, ZnSe , Si, SiO ₂ , Ge, Te, Fe ₂ O ₃ , Pt, Va, Al ₂ O ₃ , MgO, Y 2 O ₃ , S ₂ O ₃ , SiO, HfO ₂ , ZrO ₂ , CeO _{2 ,} Nb ₂ O ₅ , Ta ₂ O ₅ , TiO ₂ , Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS ₂ , cryolite, alloys, polymers and combinations thereof.

The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry in the chemical nature of the stacked layers.

Different effects are obtained depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers.

The following structures can be examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures: Fe ₂ O ₃ /SiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃ /SiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃ , a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name Sicopearl by the company BASF; MoS ₂ /SiO ₂ /mica oxide/SiO ₂ /MoS ₂ ; Fe ₂ O ₃ /SiO ₂ /mica oxide/SiO ₂ /Fe ₂ O ₃ ; TiO ₂ /SiO ₂ /TiO ₂ and TiO ₂ /Al ₂ O ₃ /TiO ₂ , the pigments exhibiting these structures being marketed under the name Xirona by the company Merck.

Liquid crystal dyes include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. Examples of goniochromatic particles of liquid crystals that can be used include, for example, those marketed by the company Chenix as well as those marketed under the name ^Helicone® HC by the company Wacker.

Goniochromatic pigments which can also be used include certain nacres, pigments having effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular a substrate such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide or aluminum, or flakes interference obtained from a polyterephthalate film.

By way of nonlimiting examples of goniochromatic pigments, mention may in particular be made, alone or in mixtures, of the goniochromatic pigments SunShine® marketed by SunChemicals, Cosmicolor Celeste® from Toyo Aluminum KK, Xirona® from Merck and Reflecks Multidimensions® from BASF.

These particles may optionally comprise or be coated with one or more optical brighteners (or organic white fluorescent substances).

Optical brighteners are compounds well known to those skilled in the art. Such compounds are described in "Fluorescent Whitening Agent, Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, Kirk-Othmer", vol. 11, p. 227-241, ^4th Edition, 1994, Wiley.

Their use in cosmetics exploits in particular the fact that they are made up of chemical compounds with fluorescence properties, which absorb in the ultraviolet region (maximum absorption at a wavelength of less than 400 nm) and re-emit energy by fluorescence. for a wavelength between 380 and 830 nm. They can be defined more particularly as compounds absorbing essentially in the UVA region between 300 and 390 nm and re-emitting essentially between 400 and 525 nm. Their lightening effect is based more particularly on an emission of energy between 400 and 480 nm, which corresponds to an emission in the blue part of the visible zone, which contributes to visually lightening the skin when this emission takes place on the skin. .

More particularly known optical brighteners include stilbene derivatives, in particular polystyrylstilbenes and triazinylstilbenes, coumarin derivatives, in particular hydroxycoumarins and aminocoumarins, oxazole, benzoxazole, imidazole, triazole and pyrazoline derivatives, pyrene derivatives, porphyrin derivatives and mixtures thereof.

The optical brighteners that can be used can also be in the form of copolymers, for example of acrylates and/or methacrylates, grafted with optical brightener groups as described in application FR 99 1094.

According to a preferred embodiment, the dye used in the present invention is chosen from metal oxide pigments, organic lakes, synthetic or natural water-soluble dyes and mixtures thereof.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the dye used in the present invention is chosen from YELLOW 5 LAKE, Blue 1 lake, RED 22 LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxides , synthetic fluorophlogopite and mixtures thereof.

If present, the colorant may be present in an amount between 3% and 20% by weight, preferably between 3% and 15% by weight, more preferably between 5% and 12% by weight, based on the weight composition total.

Additives

The anhydrous composition according to the present invention may also comprise at least one additive usually used in the field considered. In particular, the additive is chosen from anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants, thickening agents, fillers (such as the cross-polymer of methyl methacrylate), antioxidants, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, antiseptics, complementary cosmetic active agents, such as vitamins, moisturizers, emollients or collagen protection agents, and mixtures thereof.

For those skilled in the art, adjusting the nature and quantity of the additives present in the compositions in accordance with the present invention so that the advantageous properties of the composition used according to the present invention are not, or are not substantially affected by the he proposed addition is a routine operation.

According to a preferred embodiment, the present invention provides an anhydrous care and/or makeup composition for keratin materials comprising, relative to the total weight of the composition:

a) from 5% to 12% by weight of trimethylpentaphenyl trisiloxane;

b) from 10% to 24% by weight of trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone;

c) from 2% to 6% by weight of ethylcellulose and

d) from 8% to 15% by weight of at least one wax chosen from synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, VP/eicosene copolymer and mixtures thereof;

e) from 5% to 12% by weight of at least one colorant chosen from YELLOW 5 LAKE, BLUE 1 Lake, RED 22 LAKE, RED 21, RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxides, synthetic fluorophlogopite and mixtures thereof; And

f) from 60% to 75% by weight of at least one dye chosen from octyldodecanol, steryl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, dimethicone and their mixtures and.

Pharmaceutical form

The composition of the present invention is suitable for use as a skin care or makeup product. More particularly, the composition of the present invention is in the form of lipstick and so on.

The composition according to the present invention can be prepared in a conventional manner.

The present invention also proposes a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, comprising the application of the anhydrous composition as described above to the keratin materials.

The following examples are given by way of non-limiting illustrations of the present invention. The percentages are percentages by weight.

Examples

Example 1:

Lipsticks according to the formula of the invention (IE.) 1 and comparative formulas (CE) 1-3 were prepared with the ingredients listed in Table 1 (the contents are expressed in percentages by weight of active ingredient per relative to the total weight of each lipstick, unless otherwise stated):

Ingredients (trade name and supplier) Inv.1 Comp. 1 Comp.2 Comp. 3 YELLOW 5 LAKE (C69002 SUNCROMA FD AND C YELLOW 5 AL LAKE by SUN) 3.634 3.534 3.534 3.534 BLUE 1 LAKE (FD&C BLUE N°1 ALUMINUM LAKE W 042 by SENSIENT) 0.023 0.023 0.023 0.023 RED 7 (UNIPURE RED LC 3079 by SENSIENT) 1.464 1.5624 1.5624 1.5624 TITANIUM DIOXIDE (TIPAQUE™ PF-671 (COSMETIC GRADE) by ISHIHARA SANGYO) 3.25 3.35 3.25 3.25 RED 22 LAKE(SUNCROMA™ D&C RED 22 AL LAKE C14-6634 by SUN) 0.67 0.47 0.57 0.57 IRON OXIDES (SUNPURO ^TM RED IRON OXIDE C33-8001 from SUN) 0.94 1.0416 1.0416 1.0416 OCTYLDODECANOL (EUTANOL® G from BASF) QS100 QS100 QS100 QS100 HYDROGENATED POLYISOBUTENE (PARLEAM® from NOF CORPORATION) 3 3 3 3 STEARYL HEPTANOATE (AND) STEARYL CAPRYLATE (SOLID DUB from STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 5 5 5 5 PARAFFIN (and) MICROCRYSTALLINE WAX (and) SYNTHETIC WAX (PARACERA 30540 from PARAMELT) 4 4 4 4 ISOHEXADECANE (ISOHEXADECANE by INEOS) 3 3 3 3 VP / EICOSENE COPOLYMER (ANTARON™ V-220F polymer OR GANEX V 220F from ISP (ASHLAND)) 3 3 3 3 POLYETHYLENE (PERFORMALENE™ 500-L POLYETHYLENE from NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES) 5 5 5 5 METHYL METHACRYLATE CROSS-POLYMER (10 MICRONS, (COVABEAD LH 85 from SENSIENT)) 1 1 1 1 ETHYLCELLULOSE (AQUALON™ EC N7 PHARM from ASHLAND) 4 4 4 0 DIMETHICONE (BELSIL® DM 5 PLUS DIMETHICONE from WACKER) 10 10 10 10 TRIMETHYLSILOXYPHENYL DIMETHICONE (BELSIL® PDM 1000 from WACKER) 17 - 26.26 17 TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL TRISILOXANE (DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID by DOW CORNING (DOW CHEMICAL)) 9 26.26 - 9 C12-15 ALKYL BENZOATE (C12/C15 BENZOATE (DUB B1215) from STEARINERIE DUBOIS) 15 15 15 15

Preparation procedure:

The lipsticks were prepared by following the following steps:

i) Grind all colorants (lacquers, dyes, titanium dioxide and iron oxides) with a three-roller mill into a pigment paste;

ii) Mix the pigment paste and all other ingredients except ethyl cellulose, dimethicone, trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone and trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane at 105°C until homogeneous, stirring the mixture at 300 rpm with a type homogenizer VMI;

iii) Then gradually introduce ethyl cellulose into the mixture and stir at 500 rpm with the VMI type homogenizer until the ethyl cellulose dissolves completely;

iv) Introduce and mix the remaining ingredients

v) Pour the homogenized mixture into a lipstick mold preheated to 42 ± 2°C, leave the mixture in the mold at 25°C until solidification and

vi) Unmold the solid mixture from the lipstick mold cooled to approximately 4°C.

Assessment :

Shear value, hardness and stability of lipsticks and use effect such as ease of gliding and sheen of deposit after application were evaluated.

The shear value and the hardness were evaluated according to the protocol described previously.

The stability was evaluated by 5 experts according to the following steps:

i) placing the lipsticks in ovens at 20°C, 37°C and 45°C and

ii) check the appearance of the lipsticks after 2 months.

The glideability is used to assess whether the lipstick can glide easily and smoothly when applied to the lips.

The gliding ability was rated by 5 experts as follows: Slowly apply a lipstick to the upper lip on both sides twice and to the lower lip twice with the same force, while carefully feeling the force between the lipstick lipstick and lip skin during the second application. The lower the friction force, the higher the ease of sliding.

Gloss and migration resistance were evaluated by 5 experts by applying lipstick to the upper lip on both sides twice and to the lower lip twice using the same force. Migration means that the product slips away at the level of small wrinkles. The less migration the better.

Finally, comments or ratings were given by the experts on stability, ease of gliding, shine and resistance to migration.

5: Very good;

4: Fairly well;

3: Acceptable;

2: Fairly bad and unacceptable;

1: Bad, unacceptable.

The results of the evaluation of each lipstick have been summarized in the following Table 2.

Properties Inv.1 Comp.1 Comp.2 Comp.3 Shear value (gF) 75 80 62 48 Hardness (Nm ^-1 )* 64 68 53 41 Stability 5 5 5 3 Shine 4.5 5 2 4 Migration Resistance 4.5 2 5 1 Ease of gliding 5 5 2 5

It was observed that the lipstick of Inv.1 is stable and has a desired shear value and hardness, as well as a wear effect such as easy glide, and leaves a glossy deposit having good resistance. to migration on keratin materials.

Claims (10)

Anhydrous composition for caring for and/or making up keratin materials, comprising:

1. at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil optionally having a dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (I) below:

in which the R groups represent, independently of each other, a methyl or a phenyl, provided that at least one R group represents a phenyl;
b) at least one non-volatile phenyl silicone oil having at least one dimethicone moiety corresponding to formula (II) below:

wherein Me is methyl and Ph is phenyl, OR' is -OSiMe₃and p is 0 or is between 1 and 1000, and m is between 1 and 1000 and
c) at least one film-forming polymer chosen from cellulose ethers;
wherein the weight ratio of non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (I) to non-volatile phenyl silicone oil corresponding to formula (II) is 0.5 to 1. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) comprises at least three, at least four or at least five phenyl groups A composition according to claim 1, wherein the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (I) is selected from trimethylpentaphenyltrisiloxane and tetramethyltetraphenyltrisiloxane. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) has at least one dimethicone fragment, p is between 1 and 1000 and m is more particularly such that the compound (II) is a non-volatile oil. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the non-volatile phenyl silicone oil of formula (II) is chosen from phenyltrimethylsiloxytrisiloxane and trimethylsiloxyphenyl dimethicone. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 5, in which at least one film-forming polymer is chosen from methylcellulose, ethylcellulose, propylcellulose and methylethylcellulose. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 6, further comprising at least one additional oil chosen from octyldodecanol, stearyl heptanoate, stearyl caprylate, isohexadecane, C12-15 alkyl benzoate , dimethicone and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 30% by weight to 70% by weight, preferably from 40% by weight to 65% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7, further comprising at least one wax selected from synthetic wax, paraffin, microcrystalline wax, polyethylene, VP/eicosene copolymer, and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 5% by weight to 30% by weight, preferably from 7% by weight to 20% by weight, better still from 8% by weight to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 8, additionally comprising at least one colorant chosen from the following ingredients: YELLOW 5 LAKE, Blue 1 lake, RED 22 LAKE, RED 21 , RED 7, titanium dioxide, iron oxides , synthetic fluorophlogopite and mixtures thereof, in an amount ranging from 3% by weight to 20% by weight, preferably from 3% by weight to 15% by weight, more preferably from 5% by weight to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition Process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials such as the skin and the lips, comprising the application of the composition as defined in any one of Claims 1 to 9 to the keratin materials.