FR3112283A1 - Anti-acne compositions - Google Patents

Abstract

Anti-acne compositions The present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in an aqueous phase: - at least one anti-acne active agent; and - hydroxyethyl cellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid), and uses thereof. Figure for abstract: none

Description

Anti-acne compositions

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions which are useful for the care of the skin, in particular for the care of the skin against acne.

Skin disorders, such as acne, can be irritating to the skin and embarrassing to the person suffering from the disorder. This is the most common reason for a visit to a dermatologist. There are many treatments, but no cure for acne. These include antibiotics (which inhibit the growth of Propionibacterium acnes bacteria which play a role in acne), retinoids such as Roaccutane® or Differin® (which reduce sebum production by the sebaceous gland), and antimicrobials such as benzoyl peroxide, α-hydroxy acids or β-hydroxy acids. Acne lesions result from the rupture of a sebaceous follicle, followed by inflammation and pus (a "whitehead"), or an accumulation of clogged material in the sebaceous follicle (a "blackhead"). It is therefore important to keep the skin clean, and to supply active agents to the lesions. Unfortunately, cleaning is not always enough. Additionally, active agents used for acne treatment tend to be harsh and irritating. Additionally, the most potent actives may need to be applied by a dermatologist.

Among the various compositions available to treat acne are anti-acne daily leave-in facial gels, which usually have a low pH, i.e. around 3.5 to 4.5. Indeed, maintaining such a low pH is important for this kind of product, as it is effective against acne.

However, the formulation of a cosmetic product in this pH range is difficult, in particular because the choice of polymers is highly limited, because most polymers gain in viscosity and show suitable rheological properties at a pH of at least 5, 5.

There is therefore a need to formulate a skincare composition which has an anti-acne effect, which has a low pH, which is stable, non-sticky, without a noodling effect; and which provides additional benefits such as excellent applications and spreads, and contributes to the overall acceptable sensory properties of the final product at low pH.

Applicant has now discovered that it is possible to formulate such compositions having the desired properties as described above.

Specifically, the applicant has discovered that it is possible to formulate care and/or makeup compositions for keratinous materials which are stable, non-sticky, and which have good consistency and good spreading. Said compositions comprise a unique combination of at least two specific polymers, which allow physical viscoelastic properties within acceptable ranges for good consistency and good spreading.

Consequently, the present invention relates to a composition, preferably a cosmetic composition, comprising, in an aqueous phase:

- at least one active anti-acne agent; And

- hydroxyethyl cellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulphonic acid).

The composition of the invention is an aqueous gel. It is stable, non-sticky and has no noodling effect. In addition, it is quickly absorbed when applied to the skin, and has a fluid gel texture.

By "stable", it is meant that the composition of the invention does not exhibit any sedimentation (i.e. accumulation of fatty globules at the bottom of the container) or phase shift (i.e. separation of the aqueous and fatty phases) during time, in particular for one month, preferably for two months, at different temperatures (4°C, 37°C and 45°C).

By "noodling effect" is meant that the formulation or polymer (hydroxyethyl cellulose and/or 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid polymer) comes apart with normal friction. This results in non-acceptance by consumers.

Other subjects and characteristics, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range, in particular in the expressions “between” and “ranging from ... to ...”.

In addition, the expression "at least one" used in the present description is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

Throughout the present application, the term "comprising" must be interpreted as encompassing all the features specifically mentioned as well as those optional, additional, not specified. As used herein, use of the term "comprising" also discloses the embodiment in which no features other than the specifically mentioned features are present (i.e., "consisting of").

Viscosity of the composition of the invention

The composition of the invention has a viscosity of 1500 mPa.s to 2300 mPa.s, preferably of 1600 mPa.s to 2200 mPa.s, preferably of 1700 mPa.s to 2100 mPa.s.

The viscosity is measured according to the following protocol:

the viscosity is measured at ambient temperature, with the mobile M3 of the Rheometer Lamy Rheology RM 200, at least 24 hours after preparation of the composition.

anti-acne agent

The composition includes at least one anti-acne agent.

The expression “anti-acne agent” means in particular any active agent which has effects on the specific flora of oily skin, for example Propionibacterium acnes ( P. acnes ).

These effects can be bactericidal.

The anti-acne agent can be chosen from:

salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as salts and esters;

niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters;

peroxides, including benzoyl peroxide, stabilized hydrogen peroxide and organic acid peroxides, such as lauroyl peroxide;

a metal gluconate, such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate or mixtures thereof;

asiatic acid,

the monoethanolamine salt of 1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone (INCI name: piroctone olamine), marketed in particular under the registered trademark Octopirox® by Clariant,

citronellic acid, perillic acid (or 4-isopropenylcyclohex-1-ene carboxyl acid), glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether (INCI name: ethylhexylglycerine), for example sold under the registered trademark Sensiva SC 50 ^® by Schulke & Mayr ,

glyceryl caprylate/caprate, for example marketed under the registered trademark Capmul ^MCM® by Abitec;

sodium calcium phosphosilicate, marketed in particular under the registered trademarks Bioactive Glasspowder ^® and Actysse Premier BG ^® by Schott Glass;

silver-based particles, for example those marketed under the registered trademark Metashine ME 2025 ^PS® by Nippon Sheet Glass;

hop cone extract ( Humulus lupulus ) obtained by supercritical CO ₂ extraction, such as the product marketed under the registered trademark HOP CO2-TO Extract ^® by Flavex Naturextrakte,

St. John's wort extract obtained by supercritical CO ₂ extraction, such as the product marketed under the registered trademark St. John's Wort CO2-TO Extract ^® by Flavex Naturextrakte,

the mixture of root extracts of Scutellaria baicalensis , Paeonia suffruticosa and Glycyrrhiza glabra , such as the product marketed under the registered trademark BMB-CF ^® by Naturogin,

argan extract, for example Argapure ^LS9710® from Cognis;

extracts of bearberry leaves, for example the product marketed under the registered trademark Melfade-J by Pentapharm;

10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid such as Acnacidol P ^® from Vincience, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone, such as Amical Flowable ^® from Angus, malachite powder, zinc oxide such as ^Zincare® from Elementis GMBH, octadecenedioic acid such as Arlatone dioic ^DCA® from Uniqema; ellagic acid; 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (or triclosan), 1-(3′,4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea (or triclocarban), 3,4,4 '-trichlorocarbanilide, 3′,4′,5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3 ,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerin or octoglycerin, octanoylglycine, such as Lipacid C8G ^® from SEPPIC, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylimidazoldioxolane and its derivatives described in document WO 93/18743, butylcarbamate d 'iodopropynyl, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-tried nol or farnesol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the anti-acne agent is chosen from salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as salts and esters; niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters; a metal gluconate, such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate; and their mixtures. More preferably, the anti-acne agent is selected from salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc gluconate and mixtures thereof.

Preferably, the anti-acne agent(s) is (are) present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Aqueous phase

The composition of the invention comprises an aqueous phase, which comprises hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulphonic acid).

Said aqueous phase is preferably present in an amount ranging from 10% to 99% by weight, more preferably from 20% to 97% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

The composition of the invention preferably comprises water. Water is preferably present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 90% by weight, preferably from 5% to 87% by weight, more preferably from 10% to 85% by weight. , based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one polyol. The polyols can be chosen from polyols comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerol, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol , hexylene glycol, caprylyl glycol, dipropylene glycol and diethylene glycol.

The aqueous phase may also comprise at least one water-miscible organic solvent other than polyols. Said organic solvent miscible with water (at an ambient temperature of 25° C.) can be chosen from monoalcohols comprising from 2 to 6 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol; glycol ethers (in particular having from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ ) ethers, mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol akyl ( C ₁ to C ₄ ) ethers and mixtures thereof.

The polyols and/or water-miscible organic solvents may be present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 3% to 20% by weight, more preferably from 4% to 10% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

The aqueous phase can also comprise sodium hyaluronate. Said ingredient may be beneficial for skin hydration. Preferably, the sodium hyaluronate is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.015% to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 % to 1% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition.

Hydroxyethylcellulose

The composition of the invention comprises at least hydroxyethylcellulose (HEC).

HEC is a polymer derived from cellulose, and is a hydrophilic thickening agent.

The HEC according to the invention is generally present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.2 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

AMP Homopolymer S ® (poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid))

The composition of the invention comprises at least one crosslinked or non-crosslinked homopolymer comprising 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid (AMPS®) units.

The 2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid homopolymer can be cross-linked or non-cross-linked.

These are water-soluble, water-dispersible or water-swellable copolymers.

Preferably, the AMPS® homopolymers used in accordance with the invention can be partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base (such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia) or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or basic amino acids such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. They are usually neutralized. In the present invention, the term "neutralized" is understood to mean polymers which have been completely or almost completely neutralized, ie at least 90% neutralized.

The AMPS® homopolymers used in the composition of the invention generally have a number-average molecular mass ranging from 1,000 to 20,000,000 g/mol, preferably ranging from 20,000 to 5,000,000, and even more preferably from 100,000 to 1,500,000 g/mol.

When the homopolymers are crosslinked, the crosslinking agents can be chosen from compounds possessing olefinic polyunsaturation commonly used to crosslink polymers obtained by radical polymerization. As crosslinking agents, mention may, for example, be made of divinylbenzene, diallyl ether, dipropylene glycol diallyl ether, polyglycol diallyl ethers, triethylene glycol divinyl ether, hydroquinone diallyl ether, ethylene glycol di(meth)acrylate, di(meth) )tetraethylene glycol acrylate, trimethylolpropane triacrylate, methylenebisacrylamide, methylenebismethacrylamide, triallylamine, triallyl cyanurate, diallyl maleate, tetraallylethylenediamine, tetraallyloxyethane, trimethylolpropane diallyl ether, allyl (meth)acrylate, allyl ethers of alcohols of the sugars, or other allyl or vinyl ethers of polyfunctional alcohols, and also allyl esters of phosphoric acid derivatives and/or vinyl phosphonic acid derivatives, or mixtures of these compounds.

The degree of crosslinking generally ranges from 0.01 to 10% by mole, and more particularly from 0.2 to 2% by mole, based on the polymer.

A preferred polymer of the present invention is poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid), which is partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked, such as ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, also known by the trade name Hostacerin AMPS®, and commercially available from supplier Clariant.

Preferably, the composition of the invention comprises poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid).

The AMPS® homopolymer according to the invention is generally present in quantities of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.8 to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the AMPS® homopolymer according to the invention is present in a ratio by weight of active ingredient of (AMPS® homopolymer): (hydroxyethylcellulose) ranging from 3:1 to 30:1, preferably from 4 :1 to 25:1, preferably 4:1 to 7:1.

surfactant

The composition of the invention may comprise at least one surfactant. This surfactant can be anionic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or cationic. It is generally introduced into the aqueous phase.

It may have an HLB balance (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) at 25° C. in terms of GRIFFIN, preferably greater than or equal to 8. The HLB value according to GRIFFIN is defined in J. Soc. cosm. Chem. 1954 (volume 5), pages 249 to 256. Reference may be made to the document "Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER", volume 22, p. 333 to 432, ^3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the emulsifying properties and functions of surfactants, in particular on pages 347 to 377 of this reference.

Preferably, the surfactant according to the invention is chosen from:

a) anionic surfactants such as:

polyoxyethylenated fatty acid salts and in particular those derived from alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof;

phosphoric esters and their salts such as “DEA oleth-10 phosphate” (Crodafos N10N from CRODA) or monocetyl monopotassium phosphate (Amphisol K from Givaudan);

sulfosuccinates such as "PEG-5 lauryl citrate disodium sulfosuccinate" and "ricinoleamido MEA disodium sulfosuccinate";

alkyl ether sulphates such as sodium lauryl ether sulphate;

isethionates;

acylglutamates such as “hydrogenated disodium tallow glutamate” (AMISOFT HS- ^21R® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and sodium stearoyl glutamate (AMISOFT HS-11 ^PF® marketed by AJINOMOTO) and mixtures thereof;

derivatives of soya beans such as potassium soyate;

citrates, such as glyceryl citrate stearate (Axol C 62 Pellets from Degussa);

proline derivatives, such as sodium palmitoyl proline (Sepicalm VG from Seppic), or the mixture of sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate, magnesium palmitoyl glutamate, palmitic acid and palmitoyl proline (Sepifeel One from Seppic);

lactylates, such as sodium stearoyl lactylate (Akoline SL from Karlshamns AB);

sarcosinates, such as sodium palmitoyl sarcosinate (Nikkol sarcosinate PN) or the mixture of stearoyl sarcosine and myristoyl sarcosine 75/25 (Crodasin SM from Croda);

sulfonates, such as C-alkyl₁₄To VS₁₇dry sodium sulfonate (Hostapur SAS 60 from Clariant);

glycinates, such as sodium cocoyl glycinate (Amilite GCS-12 from Ajinomoto).

C ₁₆ to C ₃₀ fatty acid salts, in particular those derived from amines, such as triethanolamine stearate and/or 2-methyl-2-aminopropane-1,3-diol stearate;

b) amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, such as N-acyl-amino acids such as N-alkyl-aminoacetates (such as trimethylglycine), disodium cocoamphodiacetate, amine oxides such as stearamine oxide or even silicone surfactants such as dimethicone copolyol phosphates such as that sold under the trade name PECOSIL PS ^100® by PHOENIX CHEMICAL;

c) nonionic surfactants with an HLB greater than or equal to 8 at 25°C, such as:

saccharide esters and ethers such as the mixture of cetylstearyl glucoside and cetyl and stearyl alcohols such as Montanov 68 from Seppic;

oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of glycerol;

oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene ethers (which may comprise from 1 to 150 oxyethylene and/or oxypropylene groups) of fatty alcohols (in particular C ₈ to C ₂₄ and preferably C ₁₂ to C ₁₈ alcohols) such as oxyethylene ether of cetearyl alcohol with 30 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Ceteareth-30"), oxyethylene ether of stearyl alcohol with 20 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name "Steareth-20"), and oxyethylene ether of mixture of C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ fatty alcohols containing 7 oxyethylene groups (CTFA name “C12-15 Pareth-7”) marketed under the name NEODOL 25-7 ^® by SHELL CHEMICALS,

fatty acid esters (in particular a C ₈ to C ₂₄ acid, and preferably a C ₁₆ to C ₂₂ acid) and of polyethylene glycol (which may comprise from 1 to 150 ethylene glycol units) such as PEG-50 stearate and PEG-40 monostearate sold under the trade name MYRJ 52P ^® by ICI UNIQUEMA,

fatty acid esters (in particular of C ₈ to C ₂₄ acid, and preferably of C ₁₆ to C ₂₂ acid) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylated glycerol ethers (which may include from 1 to 150 groups oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene), such as PEG-200 glyceryl monostearate sold in particular under the name Simulsol 220 TM ^® by SEPPIC; polyethoxylated glyceryl stearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT S ^® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl oleate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT O ^® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT, polyethoxylated glyceryl cocoate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product VARIONIC LI 13 ^® sold by SHEREX, polyethoxylated glyceryl isostearate with 30 ethylene oxide groups such as the product TAGAT L ^® sold by GOLDSCHMIDT and polyethoxylated glyceryl laurate with 30 groups ethylene oxide such as the TAGAT I ^® product from GOLDSCHMIDT,

fatty acid esters (in particular of C ₈ to C ₂₄ acid and preferably of C ₁₆ to C ₂₂ acid) and oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene sorbitol ethers (optionally containing 1 to 150 oxyethylenated groups and/or or oxypropylene), such as polysorbate 20 sold under the name Tween 20 ^® by CRODA, polysorbate 60 sold under the name Tween 60 ^® by CRODA,

oxyalkylenated (oxyethylenated and/or oxypropylene) fatty acid esters, for example the PEG-100 stearate/glyceryl stearate mixture sold, for example, by the company Croda under the name Arlacel 165;

polydimethylsiloxanes comprising both oxyethylenated groups and oxypropylene groups, such as dimethicone copolyol with INCI name PEG/PPG-17/18 DIMETHICONE, such as that sold under the trade name Q2-5220 Resin ^Modifier® by DOW CORNING,

dimethicone copolyol benzoate (FINSOLV SLB 101 ^® and 201 ^® from FINTEX),

copolymers of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide (also called EO/PO polycondensates), and more particularly copolymers consisting of polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol blocks, such as, for example, polyethylene glycol/polypropylene triblock polycondensates glycol/polyethylene glycol, for example those having the following chemical structure:

H-(O-CH2-CH2)a-(O-CH(CH3)-CH2)b-(O-CH2-CH2)a-OH, where a is 2 to 120, and b is 1 to 100.

As EO/PO polycondensate that can be used, mention may be made of the triblock polyethylene glycol/polypropylene glycol/polyethylene glycol polycondensates sold under the trade names ^SYNPERONIC® such as SYNPERONIC PE/ ^L44® and SYNPERONIC PE/ ^F127® by ICI;

d) cationic surfactants such as primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may in particular be made of those satisfying the following general formula:

in which :

- R8 to R11, identical or different, each represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl, knowing that at least one of the R8 groups to R11 comprises from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, and preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. Preferably, the aliphatic groups at R8 to R11 are chosen from C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkyl, C ₁ to C ₃₀ alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C ₂ to C ₆ ), alkylamide (C ₁ to C ₃₀ ) groups. , (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkylamido(C ₂ -C ₆ )alkyl, (C ₁₂ -C ₂₂ )alkyl acetate, and hydroxy(C ₁ -C ₃₀ )alkyl; And

- X- is an organic or inorganic anionic counterion, such as that chosen from halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, alkyl (in C ₁ to C ₄ )sulfates, alkyl (in C ₁ to C ₄ )- or alkyl (C ₁ to C ₄ )aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts, preference is given to tetradecyltrimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, behenyltrimethylammonium, dipalmitoylethyl-hydroxyethylmethylammonium salts, and more particularly tetradecyltrimethylammonium bromide, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride or dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammonium methosulfate; And

e) mixtures thereof.

The surfactant may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 0.7% to 5% by weight based on the weight composition total.

Fat phase

The composition of the invention may comprise a dispersed fatty phase.

The fatty phase may be present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight based on the total weight of composition.

Said fatty phase preferably comprises at least one oil. The oil can be volatile or non-volatile.

The term "oil" means a non-aqueous water-immiscible compound that is liquid at room temperature (25°C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg).

The expression “non-volatile oil” means an oil which remains on keratinous materials at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and which in particular has a vapor pressure of less than ^{10-3 mmHg} (0.13 Pa). A non-volatile oil can also be defined as having an evaporation rate such that, under the conditions defined previously, the quantity evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg/cm².

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

Preferably, said oil is chosen from hydrocarbon-based, silicone or fluorinated oils.

The expression "hydrocarbon-based oil" or "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil formed essentially of, or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally of O and N atoms, and devoid of Si and F. Such an oil may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and/or amide groups.

The expression “silicone oil” means an oil containing at least one silicon atom, in particular containing Si—O groups.

The expression "fluorinated oil" means an oil containing at least one fluorine atom.

Preferably, the oil is chosen from silicone oils, volatile hydrocarbon-based oils and mixtures thereof.

The oil may be, for example, present in an amount ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 7% by weight, more preferably from 1% to 5% by weight. based on the total weight of the composition.

Mention may be made, for example, of volatile oils based on hydrocarbons containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures and in particular branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ alkanes such as C ₈ to C ₁₆ isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins), isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and, for example, oils sold under the trade names Isopar or permethyl, branched C ₈ to C ₁₆ esters such as neopentanoate d isohexyl and mixtures thereof. Isododecane or isohexadecane are preferred.

As non-volatile oils, mention may be made of:

- hydrocarbon-based oils of mineral or synthetic origin, such as linear or branched hydrocarbons, for example liquid paraffin or its derivatives, liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, squalane of synthetic or vegetable origin;

- hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin based on triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths, knowing that it is possible that the latter are linear or branched, and saturated or unsaturated, in particular the triglycerides of a fatty acid containing in particular from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, for example the triglycerides of heptanoic acid, the triglycerides of octanoic acid and the triglycerides of capric acid /caprylic, or otherwise hydroxylated triglycerides, such as sweet almond oil, calophyllum oil, palm oil, grapeseed oil, sesame oil, arara, rapeseed oil, sunflower oil, cottonseed oil, apricot oil, castor oil, alfalfa oil, pumpkin seed oil, blackcurrant oil, macadamia oil, rosehip oil, hazelnut oil, coriander oil, avocado oil, jojoba oil, l olive oil, cereal germ oil (corn, wheat, barley, oats), shea butter oil; fatty acid esters, in particular containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, and in particular octanoic acid, heptanoic acid, lanolic acid, oleic acid, lauric acid or stearic acid , such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, propylene glycol monoisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 diisostearate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;

- synthetic esters of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched higher fatty acid containing from 7 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 3 to 40 carbon atoms, for example Purcellin's oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isononyl isononanoate, a C ₁₂ to C ₁₅ alcohol benzoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl stearate, erucate of 2-octyldodecyl, isostearyl isostearate, 2-octyldodecyl benzoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, laurate diisopropyl adipate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, 2-diethylhexyl succinate, diisostearyl malate, isodecyl neopentanoate, hydroxy esters such as lactate isostearyl, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, glyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate; diethylene glycol diisononanoate; pentaerythritol esters; esters of aromatic acids and alcohols containing from 4 to 22 carbon atoms, in particular tridecyl trimellitate;

- higher C8 to C26 fatty acids such as myristic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid or isostearic acid;

- C ₈ to C ₂₆ higher fatty alcohols such as oleyl alcohol, linoleyl alcohol, linolenyl alcohol, isostearyl alcohol or octyldodecanol;

- synthetic ethers containing at least 7 carbon atoms;

- silicone oils such as linear polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which are liquid at room temperature, and which are optionally phenylated, such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyltrisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethyl-siloxysilicates liquid, optionally substituted by groups aliphatic and/or aromatic, for example alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, which are pendent and/or at the end of a silicone chain, these groups containing from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, and optionally fluorinated, or by functional groups such as hydroxyl, thiol and/or amine groups; polysiloxanes modified with fatty acids or fatty alcohols or polyoxyalkylenes, such as dimethicone copolyols or alkyl methicone copolyols; liquid fluorosilicones;

- and mixtures thereof.

cross-linked starch

The composition of the invention may comprise at least one cross-linked starch. Said cross-linked starch is also called modified starch. The cross-linked starch can be useful in improving the sensory and oil absorption properties of the composition.

The starch(es) which can be used in this invention is (are) in particular macromolecules in the form of polymers composed of elementary units which are anhydroglucose units. The number of these motifs and their assembly gives a means of distinguishing between amylose (linear polymer) and amylopectin (branched polymer). The relative proportions of amylose and amylopectin, as well as their degree of polymerization, vary according to the plant origin of the starches.

The starch molecules used in this invention can derive their origin from a vegetable source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables and fruits. Thus, the starch(es) may derive their origin from a plant source such as selected from corn, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, banana, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca and sorghum. The starch is preferably derived from potatoes.

Starch hydrolysates mentioned above can also be used.

Starches are usually in the form of a white powder, insoluble in cold water, with an elementary particle size varying from 3 to 100 microns.

The starches used in the composition according to the invention are chemically modified by crosslinking. In particular, these reactions can be carried out by crosslinking by functional agents capable of reacting with hydroxyl groups of starch molecules which will thus be linked to each other (for example with glyceryl and/or phosphate groups).

In particular, monostarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)2 type), distarch phosphates (of the Am-O-PO-(OX)-O-Am type) or even tristarch phosphates (of the type Am-O-PO-(O-Am)2) or mixtures of them can be obtained by crosslinking with phosphorus compounds.

In particular, X denotes alkali metals (for example sodium or potassium), alkaline-earth metals (for example calcium, magnesium), ammonium salts, amine salts such as monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine salts, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, ammonium salts derived from basic amino acids such as lysine, arginine, sarcosine, ornithine, citrulline.

The phosphorus compounds can for example be sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium orthophosphate, phosphorus oxychloride or sodium trimetaphosphate.

Distarch phosphates will in particular be used, or compounds rich in distarch phosphate such as the product marketed under the references PREJEL VA-70-T AGGL (gelatinized hydroxypropyl cassava distarch phosphate) or PREJEL TK1 (cassava distarch phosphate gelatinized) or PREJEL 200 (gelatinized acetylated cassava distarch phosphate) by AVEBE or STRUCTURE ZEA or STRUCTURE XL by Akzo Nobel (gelatinized hydroxypropyl maize distarch phosphate).

Preferably, the cross-linked starch is gelatinized hydroxypropyl corn distarch phosphate.

Amphoteric starches can also be used in the invention; these amphoteric starches contain one or more anionic groups and one or more cationic groups. The anionic and cationic groups can be attached to the same reactive site of the starch molecule or to different reactive sites, but they are preferably attached to the same reactive site. The anionic groups can be of the carboxylic, phosphate or sulphate type, and preferably carboxylic. The cationic groups can be of the primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine type.

As amphoteric starches, in particular, we have potato starches modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid. Mention may in particular be made of potato starch modified with 2-chloroethyl aminodipropionic acid neutralized with sodium hydroxide, marketed under the reference STRUCTURE SOLANACE by NATIONAL STARCH.

O-carboxymethylated starch refers to a starch that has been modified by substitution, in the free hydroxyl groups, of a hydrogen by a carboxymethylated group –CH2COOH. It can be as it is, or in the form of a salt, for example an alkali metal salt.

O-carboxymethylated starches can be prepared, for example, by reaction of a starch with monochloroacetic acid, or an alkaline salt of monochloroacetic acid (for example the sodium salt). Preferably an O-carboxymethylated starch is used which is in the form of an alkali metal salt, and more preferably in the form of a sodium salt.

Preferably, the O-carboxymethylated starch is prepared using potato starch.

O-carboxymethylated starch can also be partially or fully cross-linked. Preferably, it is partially crosslinked. The cross-linking of starch can be carried out, for example, by heating the starch, or by letting it react with cross-linking agents such as phosphates, glycerol. Even more preferably, the O-carboxymethylated starch is a sodium salt of starch, in particular potato, O-carboxymethylated and partially crosslinked. Such a product is for example marketed under the name PRIMOJEL by AVEBE.

The crosslinked starch may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 8% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 5% by weight and preferably from 0.7% to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition.

Additional ingredients

The composition of the invention can comprise at least one additive, such as UV filters, fragrances, preservatives, vitamins, chelating agents, pH regulators and/or fillers.

A person skilled in the art can adjust the type and amount of additives present in the compositions according to the invention by means of routine operations, so that the cosmetic properties and stability properties desired for these compositions are not not affected by additives.

UV filters can be mineral, such as titanium dioxide, or organic.

The chelating agent may be tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (sold as Dissolvine GL-47-S by AkzoNobel).

The filler can be organic or inorganic. Among the mineral fillers that can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention can be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin or bentone. Among the organic fillers, mention may be made of polyamide powders (Nylon ^® Orgasol from Atochem), polyalanine and polyethylene powders, polytetrafluoroethylene (Teflon ^® ) powders, lauroyllysine, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders, hollow polymer microspheres, such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate, magnesium stearate or lithium stearate , zinc laurate or magnesium myristate.

pH of the composition of the invention

The composition of the invention has a low pH, i.e. less than 4.5. Preferably the pH is between 3 and 4.5, preferably between 3.5 and 4.5.

Methods and use

According to one embodiment, the present invention relates to a non-therapeutic method of treating keratinous material, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the keratinous material.

Preferably, the present invention relates to a method of caring for the skin, comprising the step of applying the composition of the present invention to the skin.

The present invention also relates to the use of the composition of the present invention for treating acne.

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being of a limiting nature.

Examples

Example 1: Preparation of a composition according to the present invention and of comparative compositions

Formula A according to the invention, and comparative compositions B to H (indicated by a star in the following tables) were prepared according to the amounts given in the table below. The amounts are given in % by weight of the total composition.

The protocol is as follows:

1/ Heat approximately 88% of the WATER, TETRASODIUM GLUTAMATE DIACETATE and SALICYLIC ACID to approximately 70°C with stirring at approximately 200 RPM.

2/ When the temperature reaches approximately 70°C, add the SODIUM HYDROXIDE and wait until the SALICYLIC ACID powder has completely disappeared. Maintain this temperature.

3/ Add the SODIUM HYALURONATE very slowly and leave it 15 minutes to swell.

4/ Add the AMMONIUM POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL TAURATE slowly and give it 20 minutes to swell until the formulation becomes a completely clear gel. Adjust the speed to approximately 600 RPM during this step.

5/ Maintain the speed at around 600 RPM, add the HYDROXYETHYLCELLULOSE and give it 15 minutes to swell.

6/ Add the melted GLYCERYL STEARATE (and) PEG-100 STEARATE, and give them 10 minutes to disperse while maintaining the temperature.

7/ Start to reduce the temperature and when it reaches 60°C, slowly add the HYDROXYPROPYL STARCH PHOSPHATE and give it 20 minutes to disperse.

8/ In a separate beaker, use a particle disperser to disperse the TITANIUM DIOXIDE in the DIPROPYLENE GLYCOL. At approximately 55°C, add the TITANIUM DIOXIDE mixture to the main tank.

9/ At about 35°C, add the DIMETHICONE, and reduce the stirrer speed to about 400 RPM.

10/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the ZINC GLUCONATE in approximately 6% of the WATER. At approximately 35°C, add the mixture to the main tank.

11/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the NIACINAMIDE in approximately 6% of the WATER. To facilitate dissolution, heating to around 30°C may help. At approximately 35°C, add the mixture to the main tank.

12/ When the temperature reaches 30°C, add the ISODODECANE.

13/ If necessary, adjust the pH to 4.2 ± 0.3.

14/ In a separate beaker, dissolve the MENTHOL in the PERFUME. When the preparation reaches room temperature, add the mixture to the main tank.

15/ If necessary, adjust the quantity of water in the main tank.

FORMULATION AT

B*

VS*

D*

E*

F*

G*

H* (invention) Tetrasodium glutamate diacetate (Dissolvine
GL-47-S from Akzo-nobel 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Dipropylene Glycol 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 Isododecane 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Dimethicone (5cst) 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Glyceryl Stearate (and)
PEG-100 stearate (Arla cel 165 from Croda)


1


1


1


1


1


1


1


1 Hydroxyethyl cellulose
polyacryloyldimethyltaurate
ammonium 0.3 - - 0.3 - - 0.3 -
(Hostacerin ^® from Clariant)
Hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose


1.5


-


1.5


-


1.5


-


-


- Carbomer (Carbopol
-
-
-
-
0.3
1.8
-
- Ultrez 30 from Lubrizol)
1.5
1.8 Talc 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 TiO2 (water soluble)
Hydroxypropyl phosphate
starch
1 1 1 1 1 1 1 1 (XL frame)
1
1
1
1
1
1
1
1 Salicylic acid 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Sodium hydroxide 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 2 Zinc gluconate 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.5 Classic menthol 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Scent 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 qsp qsp qsp qsp TOTAL WATER qsp 100 qsp 100 100 qsp 100 100 100 100 qsp 100

For each composition, viscosity, conventional stability, stability under stress (stress cycle), sensory tests by a panel and sensory tests by the formulator were measured, according to the following respective protocols:

Viscosity measurement protocol :

Material

Rheometer Lamy Rheology RM 200

Mobile M3

Procedure

The viscosity is measured at 3 instants, t=0 s, t=30 s and t=10 minutes, with the mobile M3. For freshly formulated products, the viscosity is measured 24 hours after formulation of the product (first experiment).

For stability samples, the viscosity is measured after the sample has reached room temperature.

The viscosity is indicated in UD in the table below. For information, 40 UD correspond to 1,700 mPa.s; 50 UD correspond to 2100 mPa.s; and 60 UD correspond to 2500 mPa.s.

Stability Protocol, “ s classic table »

Material

Four temperature-controlled chambers of 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C. 50g stability glass jars.

Principle

The purpose of this test is to simulate the aging process of the formula, to see if the formula is stable over the shelf life of the product. The product is maintained at four different temperatures (4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C) and stability observations are made at two different times (1 month and 2 months). Indeed, 2 months at 45°C is equivalent to 3 years stored under real-time conditions.

Procedure

Approximately 50 g of the test samples are kept in duplicate glass jars at 4°C, 25°C, 37°C and 45°C, respectively. At times of 1 month and 2 months respectively, a jar is analyzed at each temperature and different parameters such as appearance, color, fragrance, smell, pH and viscosity are estimated. If the product complies with the target values, the product is considered stable at the given time. Observations should be noted and if any deviation is not acceptable, the product is considered unstable over time.

Stability Protocol, “ vs stress cycle »

Material

Three temperature-controlled chambers of 4°C, 25°C and 50°C.

50g stability glass jars.

Principle

The objective of this test is to subject the test sample to extreme (forced) temperature conditions and temperature shocks in order to estimate possible stability concerns that these temperature conditions may lead to in the test sample. 'essay. Following this nine-day protocol (comprising three cycles of three days each; each cycle consists of subjecting the test sample(s) for 24 hours each at 50°C, 25°C & 4°C), any sign of instability suggests a likelihood of potential stability issues. Whereas if the sample turns out to be stable without noticeable concern, in the most likely cases, the sample will be stable in a classic stability protocol. This protocol allows to get a good idea about the stability after only 9 days of time.

Procedure

Approximately 50 g of the test samples are placed in triplicate glass jars on a stability chamber at 50°C for 24 hours. The samples are then transferred to a chamber at 25°C for the next 24 hours. After that, they are moved to a room at 4°C for another 24 hours. This completes the first cycle for a total of three cycles. One out of three jars is then analyzed. Various parameters such as appearance, color, fragrance, odor, pH and viscosity are estimated. If the product complies with the target values, the product is considered stable after one cycle. The two remaining samples go through a second cycle (24 hours each at 50°C, 25°C and 4°C) then a glass jar is removed and the analysis is repeated. If the product complies with the target values, the product is considered stable after two cycles. Finally, the last glass jar goes through a third cycle. After analysis, if the product is compliant after 3 cycles, it is considered stable under stressed conditions and the product is also likely to be stable under the conventional stability protocol.

All observations should be noted and if any deviation is not acceptable then the product is considered unstable under stressed conditions and is also most likely not stable under a conventional stability protocol.

Protocol for measuring the sensory effect by a sensory panel with universal profile:

Place of the test: INDIA

Objectives: Evaluate and compare the sensory properties of two formulas

Experimental procedure: sequential monadic evaluation in blinded randomized presentation

Panel: 17 women trained, aged 18 to 35

Area and time of evaluation: appearance of the product – during application, immediately after application and after 2 minutes of application.

Protocol for measuring the sensory effect by the formulator or laboratory:

Place of the test: INDIA

Objectives: Evaluate and compare the sensory properties of two formulas

Experimental procedure: Application of 2 known products, one on each front face of the arm

Evaluator: experienced formulator

Area and time of evaluation: appearance of the product – during application, immediately after application and after 2 minutes of application.

FORMULATION AT
(invention) B* VS* D* E* F* G* H* pH
viscosity (UD) T0
Viscosity (UD) T30s Viscosity (UD) T10 min 4.03
50.5
50.1
48.73 -
-
-
- 4.35
26.6
26
25.21 4.48
3
2.8
2.5 4.36
43.7
42.7
42.36 4.17
66.5
60
51.36 4.17
46.3
42.4
37.34 4.01
34.6
33.8
33.05 Stability comment at first sight OK 2 totally unstable and liquid phases OK 2 totally unstable and liquid phases OK Presence of
some white particles on the surface surface Crushed white polymer aggregates Dispersion TiO2 OK NO OK NO OK OK OK Noodle effect NO - NO - OK Yes Yes a lot Texture OK - Lightweight and easy to spread slight squealing sensation - Sticky and dry feeling Very sticky feeling unacceptable for a leave-in product Sticky like a facial cleanser sticky Stress cycle Steady N / A Steady N / A Steady Unstable N / A N / A Classic stability Stable 2 months N / A Some crystals observed at 1 month at 2-8°C N / A N / A N / A N / A N / A

As shown above, a number of cellulose-based polymers have been tested. However, formulations based on hydroxypropyl methyl cellulose (E and F) resulted in very sticky formulations and took a much longer time to absorb into the skin, which is not appreciated.

HEC-based formulations D and G helped build viscosity and led to non-sticky formulas. However, such HEC formulations mainly lead to a brittle effect, ie the formulation where the polymer comes apart with normal friction, thus resulting in non-acceptance by consumers. However, HEC alone does not provide the gel strength necessary to hold the titanium dioxide particles in suspension in the formulation, as shown in Formula D.

In conclusion, it appears that only formula A according to the invention is stable, presents a dispersion of TiO2, no wetting effect, and shows the required texture.

Example 2: Preparation of compositions according to the present invention

Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention were prepared according to the quantities given in the table below, according to the same protocol as that of Example 1. The quantities are given in% by weight of the total composition.

The viscosity was measured according to the same protocol as that of Example 1.

F1 F2 F3 F4 Glutamate diacetate tetrasodium (Dissolvine GL-47-S from AkzoNobel) 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Dipropylene Glycol 4 4 5 5 Isododecane - - 1 1 Dimethicone (5cst) 1 1 1 1 Sodium hyaluronate 0.03 0.03 0.03 0.03 Glyceryl Stearate ( And)
stearate of PEG-100 ( Arlacel
165 from Croda) 1 1 1 1 Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.3 0.3 0.3 0.3 POLYACRYLOYLDIMETHYL AMMONIUM TAURATE
(Hostacerin® from home
Clarifying) 1.5 1.5 1.5 1.5 Talc - - 1 1 TiO2 ( water soluble) 1.5 1 1 1 Starch hydroxypropyl phosphate ( Structure XL)
-
-
1
1 Salicylic acid 1.2 1.2 1.2 1.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 2 Zinc gluconate - 0.5 0.5 0.5 Octadecenedioic acid - - 0.5 0.5 Piroctone Olamine - - - 0.5 Menthol Natural - 0.02 - - Menthol classic - 0.03 0.03 Scent 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 Qsp 100 VISCOSITY T30s ( UD) 38.9 35 62 60 OBSERVATION AT THE LAB (during preparation) Very little noodle effect No noodles approved by sensory experts other comments Acceptable consistency Base for Oil Control Ingredients

Formulas F1 to F4 according to the invention are stable, do not have a wetting effect, and show the required texture.

Example 3: Preparation of Comparative Compositions

The comparative formulas C ₁ to C ₃ were prepared according to the quantities given in the table below, according to the same protocol as that of Example 1. The quantities are given in% by weight of the total composition.

The viscosity was measured according to the same protocol as that of Example 1.

C1 C2 C3 Glutamate tetrasodium diacetate - 0.1 0.1 (Dissolve GL-47-S from home
AkzoNobel) Dipropylene glycol 3 4 4 Propylene glycol 3 - - coconut betaine 0.75 - - Hydrogenated castor oil 0.75 - - Ethanol 3 - - UV FILTERS YES NO NO Dimethicone (5cst) - 1 1 Dimethicone ( 50cst) 0.5 - - Sodium hyaluronate 0.05 0.03 0.03 Glyceryl Stearate ( And) PEG-100 stearate (Arlacel 165 from Croda) - 1 1 Hydroxyethyl cellulose ( CET) 1.5 - - xanthan gum - 0.25 - Sepigel 305 (Seppic)
(POLYACRYLAMIDE (and) ISOPARAFFIN in C₁₃to C₁₄(and) LAURETH-7 in 40% isoparaffin/water inverse emulsion) 1 - Cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose - - 1 Cetearyl alcohol - 1 - Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 30) - 1 - TiO2 (oil soluble) 0.5 - - TiO2 (water soluble) 0.5 1 1 Salicylic acid 1.2 2 1.2 Niacinamide 2 2 2 Zinc gluconate - 0.5 - Menthol natural - 0.02 - Scent 0.1 0.1 0.1 VISCOSITY t30s (UD) 74 3 4.3 OBSERVATION AT THE LAB (during preparation) Observation of noodle effect due to a high concentration of HEC No thickening No thickening, long and unstable absorption

Xanthan gum could not build up the required viscosity as shown in formulation C2, and also resulted in a sticky feeling on the skin.

Similarly, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose-based formulations similarly took longer to absorb, did not thicken, and did not lead to stable formulations (C3).

In conclusion, it appears that the comparative compositions C ₁ to C ₃ exhibit a wetting effect, or do not exhibit the required texture, due to the absence of thickening of the composition.

Claims (9)

Composition comprising, in an aqueous phase:
- at least one active anti-acne agent; And
- hydroxyethylcellulose and at least poly(2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid). Composition according to Claim 1, in which the anti-acne agent is chosen from:
salicylic acid and its derivatives, such as salts and esters;
niacinamide, niacin, and nicotinic acid esters;
peroxides, including benzoyl peroxide, stabilized hydrogen peroxide and organic acid peroxides, such as lauroyl peroxide;
a metal gluconate, such as zinc gluconate, copper gluconate or mixtures thereof;
asian acid,
1-hydroxy-4-methyl 6-trimethylpentyl-2-pyridone monoethanolamine salt;
citronellic acid, perillic acid,
glyceryl 2-ethylhexyl ether,
glyceryl caprylate/caprate;
sodium calcium phosphosilicate;
silver-based particles;
a hop cone extract ( Humulus lupulus ) obtained by supercritical CO ₂ extraction,
an extract of St. John's wort obtained by supercritical CO ₂ extraction,
the mixture of extracts from the roots of S cu t e ll a ri a ba i ca l ens i s , P aeon i a su ffr u ti cosa and G ycyrrhiz a g l a b r a ,
an argan extract;
bearberry leaf extracts;
10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, sodium ursolate, azelaic acid, diiodomethyl p-tolyl sulfone, malachite powder, zinc oxide, octadecenedioic acid; ellagic acid; 2,4,4′-trichloro-2′-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 1-(3′,4'-dichlorophenyl)-3-(4'-chlorophenyl)urea, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanilide, 3′,4′,5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, phenoxyethanol, phenoxypropanol, phenoxyisopropanol, hexamidine isethionate, metronidazole and its salts, miconazole and its salts, itraconazole, terconazole, econazole, ketoconazole, saperconazole, fluconazole, clotrimazole, butoconazole, oxiconazole, sulfaconazole, sulconazole, terbinafine, ciclopirox, ciclopiroxolamine, undecylenic acid and its salts, 3-hydroxybenzoic acid, l 4-hydroxybenzoic acid, phytic acid, N-acetyl-L-cysteine, lipoic acid, arachidonic acid, resorcinol, 3,4,4'-trichlorocarbanalide, octoxyglycerin or octoglycerin , octanoylglycine, caprylyl glycol, 10-hydroxy-2-decanoic acid, dichlorophenylimidazoldioxolane, iodopropynyl butylcarbamate, 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca-2,5,10-trienol or farn esol, phytosphingosines; quaternary ammonium salts, for example cetyltrimethylammonium salts and cetylpyridinium salts, and
their mixtures,
preferably the anti-acne agent is chosen from salicylic acid, niacinamide, zinc gluconate and mixtures thereof. Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, in which the anti-acne agent is present in the composition of the present invention in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 15% by weight, more preferably 1% to 10% by weight, more preferably 2% to 6% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 3, in which the hydroxyethylcellulose is present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.15 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.2 to 3% by weight based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 4, in which the poly(2-acrylamido 2 -methyl propane sulfonic acid) is crosslinked or non-crosslinked; and/or is partially or completely neutralized with an inorganic base, such as sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide or aqueous ammonia, or an organic base such as mono-, di- or triethanolamine, an aminomethylpropanediol, N-methylglucamine or acids basic amines such as arginine and lysine, and mixtures of these compounds. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the poly(2-acrylamido 2-methyl propane sulfonic acid) is partially neutralized with ammonia and highly cross-linked, such as ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, in which the poly(2-acrylamido 2 -methyl propane sulfonic acid) is present in amounts of active material ranging from 0.01 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight and more particularly from 0.8 to 3% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. Composition according to any one of Claims 1 to 7, in which the ratio by weight of active ingredient of poly(2-acrylamido 2-methylpropanesulfonic acid):(hydroxyethylcellulose) ranges from 3:1 to 30:1, preferably from 4:1 to 25:1, preferably from 4:1 to 7:1. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, for use in the treatment of acne.