FR3090373A1 - COMPOSITION COMPRISING EXTRACT OF ARGAN TREE, EXTRACT OF CAMELIA AND ROYAL JELLY AND ITS COSMETIC USES - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition. The invention is characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a royal synergy between an extract of argan tree (Argania spinosa L.), an extract of camellia and royal jelly. The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments. Figure 1

Description

Description

Title of the invention: COMPOSITION COMPRISING EXTRACT OF ARGAN TREE, EXTRACT OF CAMELIA AND ROYAL JELLY AND ITS COSMETIC USES Technical field

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetics. It relates more particularly to a composition comprising a new combination of cosmetically active natural ingredients, as well as its use for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments.

The skin is a vital organ composed of several superimposed layers (epidermis, dermis and hypodermis) which cover the entire surface of the body and provides protective, sensitive, immune, metabolic or thermoregulatory functions. The skin is the interface between the body and the external environment. It aims to protect the body from external aggressions but also to fight against dehydration by limiting the diffusion of water. This skin barrier is largely provided by the epidermis.

[0003] The epidermis is a coating epithelium which constitutes the external structure of the skin and ensures its protective function. This function is ensured by the cohesion of the epithelial cells and by the production of a filamentous and resistant protein, keratin. The barrier function is based in particular on the quality of the epidermis which depends in particular on the state of the stratum comeum and on the balance between the proliferation and differentiation of epidermal keratinocytes. The quality and proper functioning of the skin are also closely linked to the water content of the different layers of the epidermis.

[0004] Also, healthy skin is in particular well hydrated skin. It is then soft, firm, flexible and elastic. Indeed, the dermis is made up of a cellular structure whose main mission is to ensure the hydration of our skin. In the epidermis, lamellae of horny cells, composed of protective keratin in the shape of a thousand leaves, serve as a barrier to retain water and filter its evaporation. The skin is made up of about 70% water, or 1/5 of the water stored in our body. The hydration of the stratum comeum of the epidermis is the result of three factors: the supply of water from the dermis, the loss of water to the outside environment and the ability of the stratum comeum to fix the water molecules. A cellular cushion made up of fatty substances based on lipids, and more particularly ceramides, prevents water from evaporating. It is he who determines the natural hydration factor of our epidermis. A hydrated epidermis has a normal rate of hydration between 13% and

15%. When this rate drops to 10%, the skin is dehydrated.

The skin, like the other organs, is subject to aging. Skin aging is manifested by a number of biochemical changes in the epidermis and dermis. There are many potential targets (lipids, proteins, DNA), the degradation of which due to oxidative stress causes, among other things, an alteration in the elasticity of tissues or early aging. Due to a less rapid renewal of keratinocytes and an accumulation of corneocytes, the epidermis thins in favor of a thickening of the stratum corneum, causing wrinkles and roughness to appear. The consistency of the surface hydrolipidic film is also modified, the skin becoming dry and losing its suppleness.

The appearance of the skin can be modified by internal changes (intrinsic aging, diseases and hormonal changes such as pregnancy) or external (environmental factors, such as pollution, sunlight, pathogens, variations temperature, etc.). The skin is thus exposed to oxidative stress by exogenous factors, in addition to endogenous factors such as the action of cells such as neutrophils. Free radicals and the oxidative damage they cause play a major role in the aging process of tissues. Work on oxidative stress and its consequences on aging has been the subject of numerous publications (R. Sohal et al., “Mechanisms of aging: an appraisal of the oxidative stress hypothesis”, 2002; ER Stadtman, “Importance of individuality in oxidative stress and aging ”, 2002).

Following these alterations, wrinkles and fine lines may appear, pigmentation defects, dryness or even dehydration of the skin, thinning of the epidermis, elastosis, imperfections, age spots, etc. . All these changes affect not only the skin, but also the keratinous appendages such as the nails and hair.

[0008] Also, aging manifests itself in a very heterogeneous manner according to the parts of the body. The areas exposed to extrinsic factors (sources of oxidative stress) undergo accelerated aging compared to the areas subject only to the effects of intrinsic factors where the skin remains more supple, finer and less wrinkled. Thus, the additional or excessive production of reactive oxygen species or free radicals following harmful pro-oxidant exposures leads to an acceleration of skin aging (H. Chang et al., "The role of H ₂ O ₂ as a mediator of UVB induced apoptosis in keratinocytes ”, 2003).

Prior art

Cosmetic professionals have been looking for means for many years to increase the resistance of the skin to external aggressions and to the stress which it undergoes daily in order to limit dehydration of the skin.

To date, there are many cosmetic products based on natural extracts for the care of the skin and hair.

Argan oil is for example known to be a precious ally for the beauty of the skin and that of the hair. It is particularly rich in vitamin E and unsaponifiables, and renowned for its nourishing, regenerating and firming properties. Its antioxidant content makes it an ideal active ingredient to fight against the signs of skin aging, and its fatty acids restore suppleness and softness to dry and undernourished skin.

Argan oil can be used "pure", that is to say alone as such, to be able to benefit from all its benefits. It is also often mixed with other oils or cosmetic products and available in different formulations such as creams, oils, makeup removers ...

Camellia oil, although less recognized than argan oil, is also known to be protective and penetrating, and ideal for preparing care for dry skin. It is also mainly used as a fortifying ingredient for soft and brittle hair and nails.

We know for example the shampoo BIFERDIL® - anti-frizz with argan and camellia oils more particularly intended for washing and caring for dry hair, supposed to allow good nutrition and good hydration of the hair, by promoting restoration of its humidity.

We also know, among the long list of natural ingredients used in cosmetics, royal jelly which is a cocktail of vitamins, minerals and trace elements commonly used in anti-aging cosmetic preparations especially to revitalize dull and tired skin .

By way of example, mention may be made of NUTRITION INTENSE® cream by AB ELLIE® which is an anti-aging cream for the face which is particularly concentrated in royal jelly. It includes more particularly 15% organic royal jelly as well as at least two other anti-aging active ingredients, namely a precious fern extract from New Zealand and an extract of golden seaweed from Brittany.

CAMELIA AND ORANGE FLOWER HONEY shower gel is also known from MELVITA®, which is a combination of natural ingredients based in particular on royal jelly. The white camellia has nourishing and softening properties, ideal for preserving the virtuous balances of the skin and soothing it. Orange blossom honey, also nourishing and softening, helps protect the epidermis. Royal jelly enriches the formula and allows to gently cleanse the skin while helping to preserve its protective hydrolipidic film.

Technical problem

In general, it remains necessary to search for new compositions which have antioxidant, anti-free radical and anti-aging properties and have good cosmetic activity.

Considering the above, a problem which the invention proposes to solve is to develop a cosmetic product intended to be applied more particularly to the skin combining a complex of natural active ingredients having an improved antioxidant power to delay and fight against the effects of skin aging. More particularly, the invention aims to provide a product having an anti-radical activity and providing a moisturizing effect to improve the microdermal relief, while having good cosmetic tolerance and acceptability and being non-photosensitizing.

Technical solution

The solution to this problem posed first object is a composition characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an argan extract (Argania spinosa L.), a camellia extract, preferably Camellia oleifeira, and royal jelly.

The second object is the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments.

Benefits

The cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a synergistic association between an argan extract (Argania spinosa L ·), a camellia extract and royal jelly.

It is antioxidant, anti-aging and will thus help revitalize and restructure the skin.

It will nourish and protect it by improving the barrier function.

Its emollient properties will soften, soothe and soften the skin while moisturizing it.

Finally, from a regulatory and ecological point of view, the composition according to the invention meets the COSMOS Organic label controlled by ECOCERT.

In this description, unless otherwise specified, it is understood that, when an interval is given, it includes the upper and lower bounds of said interval.

Brief description of the drawings

The invention and the advantages which ensue therefrom will be better understood on reading the description and the nonlimiting embodiments which follow, illustrated with reference to the appended drawings in which:

Fig. L

[Fig.l] represents the evolution of the antioxidant power of certain compositions comprising one or more natural ingredients used in the composition according to the invention and used in the context of Example 4.

Fig. 2

[Fig-2] represents the measures of the acceptability and the effectiveness of a composition according to the invention according to example 1 with targeted panelists.

Fig. 3

[Fig-3] represents the measures of the acceptability and the effectiveness of a composition according to the invention according to example 2 with targeted panelists.

Fig. 4

[Fig-4] represents the measures of the acceptability and the effectiveness of a composition according to the invention according to Example 3 with targeted panelists.

Fig. 5

[Fig-5] shows the results of a clinical study for the evaluation of the moisturizing effect of a composition according to the invention according to Example 3, after single skin application, in adult volunteers.

Description of the embodiments

The invention relates to a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an argan extract (Argania spinosa L.), a camellia extract, preferably Camellia oleifeira, and royal jelly.

A physiologically acceptable medium means a medium suitable for bringing into contact with the outer layers of the skin or mucous membranes, without toxicity, irritation, undue and similar allergic response or intolerance reaction, and proportionate to an advantage / reasonable risk.

Such a physiologically acceptable medium comprises suitable ingredients, known and used in the cosmetic field. In all cases, those skilled in the art will take care to choose the physiologically acceptable medium (choice of additional ingredients as well as their proportions) so that it does not harm the desired advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention.

As physiologically acceptable medium commonly used in the field of application envisaged, there may be mentioned, for example, adjuvants necessary for the formulation, such as solvents, thickeners, gelling agents, diluents, oils, butters , dyes, pigments, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, odor absorbers, etc.

The composition according to the invention comprises an argan extract (Argania spinosa L.) ·

The argan tree is a thorny shrub endemic to Morocco. The fruit of the argan tree is an ovoid drupe with greenish pulp, the nucleus of which contains one or more fleshy and oleaginous almonds.

Preferably, the argan extract according to the invention is an argan oil, more preferably obtained by cold pressing from the almonds.

The argan oil according to the invention advantageously comes from fruit from an organic sector of the original terroir between Essaouira and Agadir offering traceability of the harvesting area and guaranteeing the absence of pesticides.

By way of nonlimiting example of a method of obtaining, the argan oil according to the invention is made from fruits harvested at maturity between May and August and advantageously dried as a result of the sun. They are then pulped manually or mechanically to obtain the argan nut. It is in turn crushed manually or mechanically to remove the shell of the nut (which can be used as fuel) and obtain the almond. The latter, not toasted, are then cold pressed (the temperature should not exceed 60 ° C) to obtain a crude argan oil and oil cake which can advantageously be used to make extracts for cosmetics for example. Impurities in the oil are removed by filtration before being stored.

As an illustrative and nonlimiting example, 100 kg of argan fruit are necessary to obtain 30 kg of nuts, 3 kg of almonds to ultimately produce 1 L of argan oil according to the invention .

Argan oil can be used as in the composition according to the invention or be advantageously deodorized, for example by a natural deodorization process by entrainment in water vapor.

The argan oil preferably used in the composition according to the invention comprises around 99% glycerides and 0.36-1.1% unsaponifiables.

The content of unsaturated fatty acids represents more than 80%, the main ones being:

• myristic acid C14: 0: 0.1%;

• palmitic acid C16: 0: 14.3%;

• palmitoleic acid Cl6: 1: 0.1%;

• C18 stearic acid: 0: 5.1%;

• C18 oleic acid: l: 45.6%;

• Cl8 linoleic acid: 2: 34.4%;

• C18: 3 linolenic acid: <0.1%;

• arachidonic acid C20: 0: <0.3%;

• C20 eicosaenoic acid: l: 0.2%.

The unsaponifiables represent approximately 1% of the fat but remain in sufficient quantity to attribute interesting virtues. Their composition is as follows:

• tocopherols: 635 mg / kg (α-tocopherol (vitamin E) 5%, γ-tocopherol 83%, ô tocopherol 12%);

• phenolic compounds: trace amounts (caffeic acid 2 ppm, eleuropein 4 ppm);

• carotenoids: xanthophylls 2 mg / kg, all-trans-B-carotene 1, 7 mg / kg;

• sterols:

- Stigmastane derivatives (Camp sterol 2.9 mg / kg, b-sitosterol 39.2 mg / kg, stigmastadienes spinasterol 40.1 mg / kg, schottenol 50.9 mg / kg, avenasterol 52.9-74, 5mg / kg, stigmasterol 745.9mg / kg);

- methyl sterols (citrostradienol, cycloeucalenol);

- triterpene alcohols (Lupeol, Butyrospermol, Ttirucallol, B-amyrin, Methylene 24 cycloartanol).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the argan extract (Argania spinosa L.) at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), more preferably between 0.5% and 30%, for example, 2%, 5%, 10% or even 20%.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises argan oil at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), even more preferably between 0, 5% and 30%, for example, 2%, 5%, 10% or even 20%.

The composition according to the invention also comprises an extract of camellia, preferably an extract of Camellia oleifeira.

The genus Camellia represents the main genus of the family Theaceae and more than 400 species of botanical camellias have been named and published. As examples of Camellia species that can be used as an extract in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of Camellia chrysantha, Camellia grijsii, Camellia japonica, Camellia oleifera, Camellia sasanqua, Camellia sinensis, preferably Camellia oleifera .

Camellia oleifera is a 5 to 7 m shrub endemic to China, the fruits of which are three-compartment capsules containing one to two seeds.

Preferably, the camellia extract according to the invention is a camellia oil, more preferably obtained by cold pressing from the seeds of the camellia.

The camellia oil according to the invention advantageously comes from seeds of Camellia oleifera from an organic sector of the endemic terroir in China.

By way of nonlimiting example of a method of obtaining, the camellia oil according to the invention is made from the seeds of the fruits of Camellia oleifera picked up and stripped of their hulls. The seeds are then cold pressed (the temperature should not exceed 60 ° C). They then undergo a series of degumming, neutralization, discoloration and deodorization in order to obtain the camellia oil advantageously used according to the invention.

The camellia oil preferably used in the composition according to the invention is composed of:

• lipids in the form of triglycerides of fatty acids:

- oleic acid (72 to 80%) [Omega 9];

- palmitic acid (6 to 16%);

- linoleic acid (5 to 14%) [Omega 6];

- alpha-linolenic acid (0.5 to 1%) [Omega 3];

• an unsaponifiable fraction containing:

- phenolic compounds, including lignans (sesamine);

- terpenoids, among which triterpenes such as triterpene alcohols (isoaglaiol, camelliol A, B and C, achilléol, helianol, isohélianol, sasanquol, isotirucallol, isoeuphol ...) and squalene;

- carotenoids, including carotenes (provitamin A);

- vitamin E (tocopherols).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises the camellia extract at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), more preferably between 0.5% and 30% , for example, 2%, 5%, 10% or even 20%.

More preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises camellia oil at a concentration between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), even more preferably between 0.5 % and 30%, for example, 2%, 5%, 10% or even 20%.

The composition according to the invention also includes royal jelly.

Royal jelly is the secretory product of the cephalic glandular system (hypo-pharyngeal glands and mandibular glands) of worker bees, between the 5th and 14th day of their existence (workers who then bear the name of nurses).

The royal jelly according to the invention advantageously comes from a French production sector, preferably from New Aquitaine, working with respect for bees.

The royal jelly preferably used in the composition according to the invention is essentially composed of:

• Water: around 66% (about 2/3);

• Carbohydrates: 14.5%, mainly glucose and fructose for the most part, and in much lower proportions of sucrose, maltose, erlose, trehalose and melibiose;

• Lipids: 4.5% in the form of various fatty acids.

• Proteins (nitrogenous substances): 13.57% amino acids in the free or combined state, including the eight essential amino acids for life that our body cannot synthesize and that it must find daily in our diet, namely : isoleucine, leucine, lysine, methionine, phenylalanine, threonine, tryptophan and valine including proline, hydroxyproline, as well as a particular protein of 57-kDa called royalactine.

• Fatty acid: 2 to 5% (E) -10-hydroxy-2-decenoic acid (10HDA). One also finds there in particular:

• vitamins in large numbers with a majority of those belonging to group B (B 1 or thiamine, B2 or riboflavin, B3 (vitamin PP) or nicotinamide, B5 or pantothenic acid, B6 or pyridoxine, B7 or meso inositol, B8 (vitamin H) or biotin, B9 or folic acid and B12 or cyanocobalamin), as well as in much smaller quantities: A, C, D and E;

• mineral substances and trace elements among which: calcium, copper, iron, magnesium, phosphorus, potassium, silicon, sodium and sulfur;

• acetylcholine which is found in very high quantities (up to 1 milligram per gram).

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises royal jelly at a concentration between 0.005% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), more preferably between 0.05% and 10%, by for example, 0.1%, 0.5%, 2% or even 5%.

The composition according to the invention comprises an effective amount of argan extract (Argania spinosa L.), camellia extract (preferably Camellia oleifeira) and royal jelly.

By effective amount, we mean the minimum amount of each of the active ingredients according to the invention which is necessary to obtain the activity of the composition, in particular cosmetic and more particularly to improve the appearance of the skin, fight against signs of skin aging or to improve skin hydration, without this amount being toxic.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the argan extract (Argania spinosa L.) at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w ), camellia extract at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and of royal jelly at a concentration of between 0.005% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).

According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises the argan extract (Argania spinosa L.) at a concentration of between 0.5% and

30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), the camellia extract at a concentration of between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and of the jelly royal at a concentration between 0.05% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises argan oil at a concentration of between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) , camellia oil at a concentration between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and royal jelly at a concentration between 0.05% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w).

The composition according to the invention can also further comprise gelling agents, emulsifiers, thickeners, oils, butters, esters, stabilizers, preservatives, dyes, pigments, preservatives, perfumes, flavors.

The composition according to the invention can be applied by any suitable route, in particular external topical, and the formulation of the compositions will be adapted by a person skilled in the art.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is formulated in a form suitable for being applied topically to the skin, the scalp and / or the integuments. The composition must therefore contain a physiologically acceptable medium, that is to say compatible with the skin and the integuments, without risk of discomfort during its application and covers all suitable cosmetic forms.

By topical application is meant the fact of applying or spreading the composition according to the invention on the surface of the skin, scalp, mucous membrane or integuments.

"Skin" means the skin of the face, especially the eye area and the mouth, nose, forehead, neck, hands, but also the skin of the whole body.

The integuments designate substances naturally present in the human organism or the animal organism rich in keratin, and more particularly the hair, the hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows and the nails.

The topical compositions for the implementation of the invention may in particular be in the form of cream, fluid, milk, gel, gel-cream, lotion, mask, scrub, serum, biphase, emulsion, powder.

The composition according to the invention can be applied once a day, advantageously twice, for example in the morning and / or in the evening, for a period of 1,2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8 , 9 or even 10 weeks, advantageously for a period of one or two months.

Another object of the invention relates to the cosmetic use of a composition according to the invention for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is used to improve the appearance of the skin and / or integuments, fight against the signs of skin aging or to improve the nutrition and hydration of the skin and strengthen the function fence.

By "improving the appearance of the skin" is meant that the texture of the skin appears finer, the brightness more intense and the complexion more uniform.

By “signs of skin aging” is meant any modification of the external appearance of the skin due to aging, such as, for example, wrinkles and fine lines, cracks, bags under the eyes, dark circles, wilting, loss of elasticity, firmness and / or tone of the skin, but also all internal modifications of the skin which do not systematically result in a modified external appearance such as, for example, thinning of the skin, or all internal degradations of the skin following environmental stresses such as pollution and UV radiation.

The term “improvement of skin hydration” is understood to mean any improvement in changes in the external appearance of the skin due to dehydration such as, for example, dryness, tightness and discomfort.

The composition according to the invention is more preferably used to protect the skin and improve the complexion by participating in firmer, denser, stronger, more radiant and full of life skin.

The synergy of the natural ingredients used gives the composition according to the invention antioxidant, moisturizing properties and an anti-aging action.

The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used on mature and / or dry skin to nourish, strengthen and restructure the skin. It softens, soothes and softens the skin. It can form a film-forming agent which will participate in hydrating, protecting the skin and improving the barrier function.

In particular, the composition according to the invention will have an immediate hydrating effect, that is to say 1, 2, 3 or 4 hours after application, on the surface layers of the epidermis.

It also makes it possible to improve the skin microrelief, for example in the crow's feet, from 4 weeks of daily or bi-daily application. The skin is smoother, supple, soft and nourished and shows an anti-wrinkle potential.

Examples

The present invention will now be illustrated by means of the following examples: Example 1: Preparation of an example of composition according to the invention "ROSE ECLAT day cream"

[0093]

[Tables 1]

Phase INCI Mixed Names (Raw Material) % (w / w) 1 WATER 20-80 1 GELLIFIER: XANTHAN GUM & MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE & CELLULOSE GUM 0.05 - 1 1 MOISTURIZING: GLYCERIN 1-10 2 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE & GLYCERYL STEARATE SE & SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE & CETEARYL ALCOHOL 0.1-15 2 Oil of argan almonds (Argania spinosa L.) 0.005 - 50 2 Camellia seed oil (Camellia oleifera) 0.005 - 50 3 Royal jelly 0.005 - 5 2 DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE & GLYCINE SOY OIL & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE 2-20 2 OLUS OIL & HYDROGENATED VEGETABLE OIL & CANDELILLA CERA & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL 2-20 3 LAURYL LAURATE & LAUROYL LYSINE & RIBOSE 2-20 3 ANTIOXIDANT: TOCOPHEROL 0.01 - 1 3 NATURAL COLOR: CI 77019 & CI 77491 & CI 77499 0.01-2 3 PRESERVATIVES: SODIUM BENZOATE & SODIUM LEVULINATE & GLYCERIN & BENZYL ALCOHOL & SODIUM HYDROXIDE 0.05 - 2 3 PERFUME 0.05 - 1

Mode of operation

Gel the aqueous phase (phase 1) by homogenization with vigorous stirring (2500 rpm) and heat to 80 ° C.

Prepare the fatty phase (phase 2) and heat to 80 ° C with stirring (35 rpm).

When the 2 phases are at 75 ° C make the emulsion with vigorous stirring (2500 rpm) for 15 minutes.

After checking the emulsion under a microscope, cool gently and add the components of phase 3 at 30 ° C with gentle stirring (35 rpm) for at least 15 minutes. Example 2: Preparation of an example of a composition according to the invention "Nourishing night cream"

[Tables!]

Phase INCI Mixed Names (Raw Material) % (w / w) 1 WATER 15-80 1 GELLIFIER: XANTHAN GUM & BENTONIOTE 0.05 - 2 1 MOISTURIZING: GLYCERIN & PROPANEDIOL 1-10 2 GLYCERYL STEARATE CITRATE & CETEARYL ALCOHOL & SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE & C12-16 ALCOHOLS & HYDROGENATED LECITHIN & PALMITIC ACID 3-15 2 Oil of argan almonds (Argania spinosa L.) 0.005 - 50 2 Camellia seed oil (Camellia oleifera) 0.005 - 50 3 Royal jelly 0.005 - 5 2 BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII BUTTER & OCTYLDODECANOL & COCO-CAPRYLATE / CAPRATE & DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE & GLYCINE SOJA OIL & CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE & HELIANTHUS ANNUUS SEED OIL 2-20 3 ALGAE EXTRACT & HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID 0.005 - 5 3 LAURYL LAURATE & PHYTIC ACID 1-10 3 ANTIOXIDANT: TOCOPHEROL 0.01 - 1 3 CONSERVATIVES: SODIUM BENZOATE & SODIUM LE- VULINATE & GLYCERIN & BENZYL ALCOHOL & SODIUM HYDROXIDE 1 0.05 - 2 3 PERFUME 0.05 - 1

Mode of operation

Gel the aqueous phase (phase 1) by homogenization with vigorous stirring (2500 rpm) and heat to 80 ° C.

Prepare the fatty phase (phase 2) and heat to 80 ° C with stirring (35 rpm).

Incorporate the fatty phase (phase 2) into the aqueous phase (1) and allow to homogenize with gentle stirring (35 rpm) for 30 min still at 80 ° C.

Then make the emulsion with vigorous stirring (2500 rpm) for 20 minutes. After checking the emulsion under a microscope, cool gently and add the components of phase 3 at 30 ° C with gentle stirring (35 rpm) for at least 15 minutes.

Example 3: Preparation of an example of a composition according to the invention "Regenerating hydrating serum"

[Tables3]

Phase INCI Mixed Names (Raw Material) % (w / w) 1 WATER 15-80 1 GELLIFIER: XANTHAN GUM & BENTONIOTE 0.05 - 2 2 MOISTURIZING: GLYCERIN 1-10 2 SUCROSE STEARATE & GLYCERYL STEARATE SE & ACACIA DECURRENS / JOJOBA / SUNFLOWER SEED WAX / POLYGLYCERYL-3 ESTERS 3-15 3 Oil of argan almonds (Argania spinosa L.) 0.005 - 50 3 Camellia seed oil (Camellia oleifera) 0.005 - 50 4 Royal jelly 0.005 - 5 3 CAPRYLIC / CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDE & DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE & GLYCINE SOYBEAN OIL & 2-20 4 AQUA & ALGAE EXTRACT & ALCOHOL & PRUNUS PERSICA LEAF EXTRACT & RUBUS IDAEUS EXTRACT & PYRUS MALUS EXTRACT & HYDROLYZED HYALURONIC ACID 0.005 - 5 4 ANTIOXIDANT: TOCOPHEROL 0.01 - 1 4 CONSERVATIVES: SODIUM BENZOATE & SODIUM LE- VULINATE & GLYCERIN & BENZYL ALCOHOL & SODIUM HYDROXIDE & POTASSIUM SORBATE 0.05 - 2 4 PERFUME 0.05 - 1

Procedure

Gel the aqueous phase (phase 1) by medium homogenization with stirring (2500 rpm) and heat at 80 ° C for 20 minutes.

Prepare the fatty emulsifying phase (phase 2) and add it to the aqueous phase (phase 1), homogenize for 10 min at low agitation (50 rpm).

Prepare the fatty phase (phase 3), heat to 80 ° C.

When the 2 phases (phase 1 + 2 and phase 3) are at 80 ° C make the emulsion with rapid stirring (2500 rpm) for 15 minutes.

After checking the emulsion under a microscope, cool gently and add the components of phase 4 at 30 ° C with gentle stirring (35 rpm) for at least 15 minutes.

Example 4: Evaluation of the antioxidant capacity of a composition according to the invention

2,2-diphenyl-1-picrylhydrazyl (DPPH) is a commercially available radical under very stable nitrogen, characterized by an intense purple-red color. DPPH is used for its discolouring properties when it is reduced in the presence of a compound with antioxidant capacity. In this test, the DPPH assay determines whether a test product has an antioxidant effect by comparing it to a vitamin E analog, Trolox. It is possible to quantify the reducing capacity of the test product which acts by hydrogen transfer and electron transfer by spectrophotometric measurement at 517 nm of the change in absorbance of the DPPH solution after reaction with an antioxidant compound.

The results obtained in Table 4 below are expressed relative to the protection exerted by Trolox, the reference antioxidant. A range of Trolox introduced into the test makes it possible to express the results in pmol of Trolox equivalent / L of product.

The antioxidant activity by reduction of DPPH was thus measured for pure organic camellia oil (Camellia oleifera), pure organic royal jelly, royal jelly at 0.1% in water, as well as for a composition combining royal jelly at 0.1% with camellia oil (Camellia oleifera) and a composition combining royal jelly at 0.1% with organic argan oil, and compared to the measurement carried out for a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising royal jelly at 0.1% with camellia oil (Camellia oleifera) at 49.05% and argan oil at 49.05%.

The results of the DPPH assay relating to the different compositions tested are listed in Table 2 below and illustrated (in part) by Ligure 1.

[0106]

[Tables4]

Compositions tested Results (pmol Trolox / L of product) Pure organic camellia oil 31.18 Pure organic royal jelly 0.37 0.1% organic royal jelly in water 0.118 0.1% royal jelly + 99.90% organic camellia oil 0.32 0.1% royal jelly + 99.90% organic argan oil 40.31 Royal jelly 0.1% + organic camellia oil 49.95% + organic argan oil 49.95% 41.72

In the test carried out, pure royal jelly or 0.1% does not appear to have a strong antioxidant power (0.37 and 0.118 respectively). It nevertheless retains the same activity potential at low concentration.

By comparing the results thus obtained, it can be surprisingly noted that the royal jelly at 0.1% substantially inhibits the antioxidant power of camellia oil (0.32 instead of 31.18), which this is not the case with argan oil (40,31).

Also, under the test conditions carried out, surprisingly, the composition according to the invention comprising royal jelly at 0.1% with camellia oil and argan oil has a potentiated antioxidant activity, greater than the sum of the results obtained with the compositions combining royal jelly at 0.1% with either camellia oil or argan oil (41.72 compared to 0.32 and 40.31 respectively).

The results obtained with royal jelly at 0.1% in water, and with the compositions comprising royal jelly at 0.1% in water with camellia oil only and with in addition argan oil are more particularly illustrated in Figure 1.

The three ingredients used in the composition according to the invention thus appear to be synergistically optimized for the antioxidant effect of the composition, on the contrary, for example from the combination of royal jelly and camellia oil.

Example 5: Measuring the acceptability and effectiveness of the "ROSE ECLAT day cream" (according to example 1) with targeted panelists

The composition according to Example 1 was tested on 37 women over the age of 50, purchasing anti-aging products in supermarkets and with at least 50% of the panel having sensitive skin, for 28 days of application. .

The application process consists in applying the product in the morning to the perfectly cleansed face and neck.

The observations were made after 1 day and 28 days of use and are illustrated in Figure 2.

The overall judgment of this cream according to the invention is good since 80.5% state that they want to buy it, and 77% have a general positive impression of the product. It obtains an average of overall satisfaction of 7.1 out of 10.

81% of the panelists have a positive impression on efficiency.

The sensory data linked to the use of this product show that: the texture is pleasant (97%) and the application is easy (97%);

penetration is easy (88.5%);

the fragrance is pleasant (94%) and its intensity is just fine (83%);

the color is just fine (94%) and corresponds to expectations for a radiant product (88.5%).

[0119] Immediately (after 1 day of use):

the skin is comfortable (91.5%) and hydrated (91.5%);

a feeling of freshness is felt (72%);

the complexion appears fresher (72%).

[0120] After 28 days of use:

the skin is more comfortable (86%), hydrated (91.5%) and less tired (83%);

the skin regains radiance (75%);

feelings of discomfort and tightness are alleviated (91.5%);

the complexion appears fresher (72%).

In terms of the significance of the effectiveness, certain criteria (not shown) were also self-assessed on scales on D0 and D28.

A very significant difference on the luminosity of the complexion and on the color of the complexion (from gray to pink) could be observed.

A significant difference on the density of the skin and on the firmness of the skin could also be observed.

Example 6: Measuring the acceptability and effectiveness of the "nutritive night cream" (according to Example 2) with targeted panelists

The composition according to Example 2 was tested on 49 women over 50, purchasing in supermarkets and with at least 50% of the panel having sensitive skin, for 28 days of application.

The application process consists in applying the product in the evening, in light massages, to the perfectly cleansed face.

The observations were made after 1 day and 28 days of use and are illustrated in Figure 3.

The overall judgment of this cream according to the invention is good since 73.5% state that they want to buy it, and 72% have a general positive impression of the product. It obtains an average of overall satisfaction of 7.4 out of 10.

77% of the panelists noted a satisfactory effectiveness.

The sensory data linked to the use of this product show that: the texture is pleasant (98%) and allows easy application (91.5%);

the fragrance is pleasant (93.5%);

penetration is easy (87.5%).

[0131] Immediately (after 1 day of use):

the skin is supple (87.5%), comfortable (85.5%), firmer (63%) and nourished (85%); a feeling of comfort is felt (85.5%).

[0132] After 28 days of use:

the skin is comfortable (91.5%), supple (93.5%), hydrated (89.5%), firmer (68.5%), intensely nourished (83.5%), more even (72%) and brighter (79.5%);

the skin regains density (76.5%) and radiance (79.5%);

feelings of discomfort and tightness are soothed (87.5%).

Example 7: Measuring the acceptability and effectiveness of the "Regenerating hydrating serum" (according to Example 3) with targeted panelists

The composition according to Example 3 was tested on 47 women over 50, purchasing in supermarkets and with at least 50% of the panel having sensitive skin for 28 days of application.

The application process consists in applying the product morning and evening, before the daily care.

The observations were made after 1 day and 28 days of use and are illustrated in Figure 4.

The overall judgment of this serum according to the invention is good since 83% state that they want to buy it, and 77% have a general positive impression of the product. He obtains an average overall satisfaction of 7.5 out of 10.

78.5% of the panelists note a satisfactory effectiveness.

The sensory data linked to the use of this product show that: the texture is pleasant (100%) and allows easy application (100%);

the fragrance is pleasant (93.5%);

penetration is easy (97.5%);

the cream is non-greasy (97.5%).

[0140] Immediately (after 1 day of use):

the skin is nourished (84.5%), comfortable (95.5%), firmed (59.5%) and hydrated (91.5%);

a feeling of comfort is felt (91.5%).

[0141] After 28 days of use:

the skin is more comfortable (91.5%), hydrated (95.5%), firmed (70%), regenerated (73.5%), intensely nourished (81.5%), more toned (78.5% ) and more uniform (80%);

the skin regains density (69.5%);

the complexion is brighter (80.5%).

Example 8: Clinical study for the evaluation of the hydrating effect of the "regenerating hydrating serum" (according to example 3), after single cutaneous application, in adult volunteers

The objective of the study is to evaluate the moisturizing effect of a composition according to the invention (Example 3), on the basis of repeated instrumental measurements of the electrical capacity (corneometry), after single skin application , in the adult volunteer.

The study was thus carried out on 10 female volunteers, of Caucasian type, adults (18-70 years), and having a dryness in the forearms (internal face) with an electrical capacity less than or equal These volunteers also show no sign of irritation or other anomaly in the area concerned.

The treated and control (untreated) areas were delimited at the level of the forearm (internal face) right and / or left, on a surface of 4 x 5 cm (20 cm ² ).

The composition tested was applied to the treated area determined according to randomization (Latin square), with 2 mg / cm ^2, ie 40 mg of product, by single application to the IEC, by a technician using a fingertip by light massage until complete penetration.

The results obtained are detailed below and illustrated in Ligure 5.

As illustrated in Ligure 5, a statistically significant increase in electrical capacity is observed after the application of the hydrating serum according to the invention (composition of Example 3), compared with the initial measurements and the values recorded at the level of the control zone, at each time of the study:

hydration gain at T2 hours: + 43.23%;

hydration gain at T4 hours: + 42.29%.

The single skin application of the moisturizing serum according to the invention (composition of Example 3), under the experimental conditions adopted, in volunteers with dry skin at the forearms, thus produced a statistically effect significant and very clear on the degree of hydration of the upper layers of the epidermis, approximately 2 and 4 hours after application.

Claims (1)

Claims [Claim 1] Composition characterized in that it comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, an extract of argan tree (Argania spinosa L.), an extract of camellia, preferably Camellia oleifeira, and royal jelly. [Claim 2] Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the argan extract is an argan oil, preferably obtained by cold pressing from the almonds. [Claim 3] Composition according to Claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the camellia extract is a camellia oil, preferably obtained by cold pressing from the seeds of the camellia. [Claim 4] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises the argan extract (Argania spinosa L.) at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w ), camellia extract at a concentration of between 0.005% and 50% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and of royal jelly at a concentration of between 0.005% and 20% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w). [Claim 5] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises argan oil at a concentration of between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w), of camellia oil at a concentration between 0.5% and 30% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w) and royal jelly at a concentration between 0.05% and 10% by weight of the total weight of the composition (w / w). [Claim 6] Composition according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is formulated in a form suitable for being applied topically to the skin, the scalp and / or the integuments. [Claim 7] Composition according to Claim 6, characterized in that it is in the form of a cream, fluid, milk, gel, gel-cream, lotion, mask, exfoliation, serum, biphase, emulsion, powder. [Claim 8] Cosmetic use of a composition according to one of claims 1 to 7 for the care of the skin, scalp and / or integuments. [Claim 9] Cosmetic use according to claim 8 to improve the appearance of the skin and / or integuments, fight against the signs of skin aging or to improve the nutrition and hydration of the skin. [Claim 10] Cosmetic use according to claim 9 for protecting the skin and improve the complexion.