FR3087119A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION FOR SKIN CARE AND RADIANCE AND PROCESS FOR PREPARING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin as well as a process for the manufacture thereof. The cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin of the »invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable base B1 comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and a combination of n interference pigments N1, N2, N3, N4, N5 , with 3 ≤ n ≤ 5, at least two of which reflect complementary colors, each interference pigment N1, N2, N3, N4, N5 being present in the base B1 in percentages by mass relative to the total mass of the base B1 respectively x1, x2, x3, x4, x5, such as: * - 0.5 ≤ a1 (x1) + a2 (x2) + a3 (x3) + a4 (x4) + a5 (x5) ≤ +0, 5 with a1 (x1), a2 (x2), a3 (x3), a4 (x4), a5 (x5) being respectively the values of a, measured in the base B1, in transmission, at the percentages respectively x1, x2, x3 , x4, x5, in the L ab system respectively interference pigments N1, N2, N3, N4, N5, * - 0.5 ≤ b (x1) + b2 (x2) + b3 (x3) + b4 (x4 ) + b5 (x5) ≤ +0.5, with b1 (x1), b2 (x2), b3 (x3), b4 (x4), b5 (x5) being respectively the values of b measured in the base B1, in transmission to the percentages respectively x1, x2, x3, x4, x5, in the system L ab, interference pigments N1, N2, N3, N4, N5, * the sum X = x1 + x2 + x3 + x4 + x5 is between 0.5 and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the base B1, and the L value of each interference pigment N1, N2, N3, N4, N5 being greater than or equal to 88% and the Haze value of the cosmetic composition being greater than or equal to 50%. The invention finds application in the field of the cosmetic industry.

Description

The cosmetic composition for skin care and radiance of the invention comprises a cosmetically acceptable base B1 comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and a combination of n interference pigments N _{> 1} , N ^, N _{> 3} , N _{> 4} , N _{> 5} , with 3 ξα3 η ξα3 5, at least two of which reflect complementary colors, each interference pigment Ν _{> υ} N _{> 2} , N _{> 3} , N _{> 4} , N _{> 5} being present in base B1 in percentages by mass relative to the total mass of base B1 respectively χ _{> υ} x _{> 2} , x _{> 3} , x _{> 4} , x _{> 5} , such as:

* - 0.5 ξ "3 a ^ i (xi) + a. p (x. ₂ ) + a. o (x. o) + a. ₄ (x. ₄ ) + a. c, (xc) 5ot3 +0.5 with a _{? 1} (x> i), a _{> 2} (x _{> 2} ), a _{> 3} (x _{> 3} ), a _{> 4} (x _{> 4} ), a _{> 5} (x _{> 5} ) being respectively the values of a, measured in the base B1, in transmission, with the percentages respectively χ _{> Ί} , x _{? 2} , x _{> 3} , x> ₄ , x> 5, in the system L ab respectively interference pigments Ν _{> υ} N _{> 2} , N _{> 3} , N _{> 4} , N _{> 5} , * - 0.5 ξα3 b (x _{> 1} ) + b _{> 2} (x _{> 2} ) + b _{> 3} ( x _{> 3} ) + b _{> 4} (x _{> 4} ) + b> ₅ (x> ₅ ) ξα3 +0.5, with b _{> 1} (x _{> 1} ), b> ₂ (x> 2). b _{> 3} (x _{> 3} ), b _{> 4} (x _{> 4} ), b _{> 5} (x _{> 5} ) being respectively the values of b me-

AND THE RADIANCE OF THE SKIN AND METHOD FOR SA surées in the base B1, in transmission to the percentages respectively x _>; i, x _{> 2} , x _{> 3} , x _{> 4} , x _{> 5} , in the L ab system, interference pigments n> i, n _{> 2} , n _{> 3} , n _{> 4} , n _{> 5i} * la sum X = χ _{> Ί} + x _{> 2} + x _{> 3} + x _{> 4} + x _{> 5} is between 0.5 and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the base B1, and the value L of each interference pigment N _{> 1} , N _{> 2} , N _{> 3} , N> ₄ , N ^ being greater than or equal to 88% and the Haze value of the cosmetic composition being greater than or equal to 50%.

The invention finds application in the field of the cosmetic industry.

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Cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin and process for its preparation

The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin as well as a process for the manufacture thereof.

Cosmetic skin care compositions currently exist on the market comprising at least one active ingredient, such as a moisturizing agent, an agent promoting the reduction of wrinkles or enlarged pores, or even improving the tone of the skin.

However, these cosmetic compositions have, by vocation, a long-term action and do not immediately improve the appearance of the skin by masking its imperfections, such as brown spots, redness, too light or too dark skin. .

There are also currently cosmetic makeup compositions on the market, including in particular foundations, comprising at least one non-interference pigment to unify and modify the apparent color of the skin and aimed at masking the imperfections of the skin.

However, these cosmetic makeup compositions, by vocation, do not allow long-term care of the skin and are sometimes considered uncomfortable because they are too covering and / or transfer their color to the hands, for example.

There are also currently on the market tinted cosmetic care compositions containing at least one active care ingredient and at least one non-interference pigment.

However, these cosmetic compositions have the same drawbacks as cosmetic makeup compositions.

In addition, the color given to the skin by these tinted make-up or care compositions varies from light beige to chocolate and it is difficult, both for the make-up product and for the tinted care product, to provide suitable care. at each phototype.

However, there is currently a strong demand for cosmetic skin care compositions which make it possible to improve the quality of the skin in the long term but also to provide an immediate effect of improving the appearance of the skin, without have the drawback of tinted make-up or care compositions.

To this end, the invention provides a cosmetic skin care composition in which the presence of dyes or pigments of mineral or organic origin and not of interference is not necessary, which visibly and immediately improves the appearance of the skin by increasing its radiance and which, by an optical effect, visibly reduces its imperfections.

The radiance of the skin comes from three main factors:

- a homogeneous complexion, that is to say a uniform skin color. This homogeneous complexion is currently obtained, as we have seen, using cosmetic makeup or care compositions with tint, with the drawbacks mentioned above. In addition, the addition of non-interference pigment does not increase the brightness (radiance) of the skin,

- a tight skin texture, that is to say with non-enlarged pores, and finally

- a complexion that is said to be luminous, that is to say that reflects light.

To increase the brightness, there are currently care products containing large amounts of oil (s).

However, these products are not suitable for oily skin and they produce an unnatural shiny effect.

In addition, the presence of a large amount of oil (s) can promote the formation of blackheads.

Patent EP 1 928 400 B1 proposes a skin care composition for improving the appearance of visible discontinuities in the skin and for improving the condition of the skin, and which should not contain any colorant.

The composition of patent EP 1 928 400 B1, in one embodiment comprises at least one pair of interference pigments. Each interference pigment in the pair of interference pigments reflects a color complementary to the other interference pigment and the proportions of the first to the second interference pigment are such that the cosmetic composition obtained appears essentially uncolored when applied. on the skin.

Compositions are given as examples in which two interference pigments reflecting complementary colors are present.

However, in these compositions, the two interference pigments are present in identical amounts. However, any interference pigment reflects well in a dominant color but also other colors: a pigment reflecting a green light will also reflect a little yellow light or a little blue light, an interference pigment reflecting a yellow light will also reflect a little green or red light, a reflective pigment of red light will also reflect a little yellow light or a little blue light, and a reflective pigment of blue light will also reflect a little green light or a little Red light.

Thus, it appears very difficult, if not impossible, to obtain, with only two interference pigments reflecting complementary colors used in equal amounts, white light.

Indeed, the inventors have discovered that only white reflected light makes it possible to obtain a natural radiance effect suitable for all skin phototypes, whether it is clear, dewy, yellow or dark.

In this context, the invention aims to provide a composition which makes it possible to bring radiance to the skin with a natural effect and having little or no impact on the color and texture of the base in which the interference pigments are to be integrated.

This means in particular that if the cosmetic care composition is white, it will remain white and that if it is colored, due to the addition of colored active skin care ingredients, such as certain plant extracts, or because that it includes a dye to make it more attractive to the consumer, this coloration will not be affected little by little by the presence of interference pigments but will make it possible to obtain the desired radiance of the skin.

The invention proposes, to bring radiance to the skin, whatever its phototype, a cosmetic composition reflecting a light of white color.

The color in the invention is defined according to the values L, a, and b of the CIELAB color system, which provides a way of objectively representing a perceived color and color differences.

According to this color system, the values of a vary between -60 and +60 along a green-red horizontal axis and the values of b vary between -60 and +60 along a vertical blue-yellow axis.

Thus, the more the value a of the color of the light reflected by an interference pigment, the more this interference pigment reflects green light; similarly, the more positive the a, the redder the color of the light reflected by the interference pigment; the more the b of the interference pigment is positive, the more yellow the light it reflects, and the more the b of the interference pigment is negative, the more the color of the light that this interference pigment reflects is blue.

Brightness is translated in this color space by the value of L: the closer L is to 0, the more the reflected light is black, and the closer L is to the value 100%, the more the reflected light is white.

In the invention, the values of L, a, and b are measured on a C3600d spectrocolorimeter (Konica-Minolta).

By dye is meant, in the invention, a colored substance soluble in water and / or in an oil providing a coloration visible to the naked eye.

In contrast, a non-interference or interference pigment, particularly interference pigment, is made up of particles that are insoluble in oil and / or water.

An interference pigment in the invention consists of thin particles, in the form of platelets, comprising two or more layers of controlled thickness. These layers have different refractive indices and reflect a color resulting from the constructive or destructive interference of the light reflections of the different layers.

Interference pigments transmit a color complementary to that which it reflects. As an illustration, a blue interference pigment reflects a blue color but transmits a complementary yellow color to the skin.

In contrast to the colored pigments, the interference pigments used in the invention are white in mass, while reflecting a color.

They are also called, in the art, "nacres" or even "white interference nacres".

Thus, the use of interference pigments (nacres) in a cosmetic composition will have no impact on the color and texture of the base in which the interference pigments are incorporated. Depending on the amount of mother-of-pearl added, it will have an impact on the intensity of this color.

This means in particular that if the cosmetic composition is bright pink, before the addition of interference pigments (nacres), this coloration will simply be less vivid when adding interference pigments.

In order to provide care and radiance to the skin, in a natural way, the invention provides a cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin comprising:

a cosmetically acceptable base B1 comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and

- a combination of n interference pigments Ni, N ?, N3, N4, N5, at least two of which reflect complementary colors.

As previously explained, the number n of interference pigments must be greater than or equal to 3.

This means that:

- when n = 3, the interference pigment combination includes the interference pigments Ni, N ?, and N3,

- when n = 4, the interference pigment combination includes the interference pigments N], N2, Nj, and N4,

- when n = 5, the combination of interference pigments includes those of interference pigments Ni, N2, N3, N4, andN ₅ .

Although the number n of interference pigments can be much higher, using more than 5 interference pigments does not bring any advantage.

For this reason, in the cosmetic composition, 3 <n <5.

The base B1 comprises at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle can be in various forms, non-limiting examples of which include simple water-based or oil-based solutions, gels, foams and emulsions. The cosmetically acceptable vehicle can represent approximately 50% to 99.9% by mass, relative to the total mass of the base B1.

The oils which can be used as a cosmetically acceptable vehicle are oils derived from plants, such as fatty acid esters, fatty alcohol esters, and fatty alcohols, and which are liquid at a temperature of 15 ° C. They can be natural or synthetic oils, and they can include silicone oils.

Non-limiting examples of vegetable oils are macadamia oil and hazelnut oil.

Non-limiting examples of hydrocarbon oils and waxes include petrolatum, mineral oil, microcrystalline resins, polyalkenes, paraffins, cerasin, ozocerite, polyethylene, perhydrosqualene, poly alpha olefins , hydrogenated polyisobutenes and combinations thereof.

Nonlimiting examples of silicone oils include dimethicone copolyol, crosslinked silicone polymers, dimethylpolysiloxane, diethylpolysiloxane, mixed Ci.jo polysiloxanes, dimethicone phenyl, dimethiconol, and combinations thereof. In one embodiment, the silicone oils are non-volatile silicone oils selected from a group consisting of dimethicone, dimethiconol, mixed alkyl polysiloxanes C] .30, crosslinked silicone polymers, and combinations thereof.

A preferred silicone oil of the invention is dimethicone marketed by the company Momentive under the trade name "Element 14 * PDMS 5-A".

The cosmetically acceptable water-based vehicle may contain, in addition to water, a water-miscible solvent such as a monoalcohol, preferably ethanol, a polyol such as glycerol, propanediol, pentylene glycol. and butylene glycol.

However, in order to form a base B1 which is a stable emulsion or gel, the cosmetically acceptable vehicle may be combined with an emulsifier and / or a gelling agent and / or a thickener, in particular when this cosmetically acceptable vehicle is a solution.

When the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is oil-based, the emulsifiers can be non-ionic, anionic or cationic. Such emulsifiers are described for example in US Patent 3,755,560, US Patent 4,421,569, and the manual McCutcheon’s Detergents and Emulsifiers, North America Edition, pages 317-324 (1986).

Preferably, in the invention, the emulsifier is non-ionic. Nonlimiting examples are alkylpolyglucosides, phospholipids, and polysorbates.

A preferred emulsifying gelling polymer is an acryloyldimethyltaurate / vinylpyrrolidone (VP) ammonium copolymer such as that sold by the company Clariant under the trade name "Aristoflex AVC".

When the cosmetically acceptable vehicle is water-based, nonlimiting examples of gelling agents and / or thickeners are cellulose derivatives, gums of plant origin such as guar or carob gum, alginates, carrageenans, gums of microbial origin such as xanthan gum, Γ ammonium acryloyldimethyl taurate / vinyl pyrrolidone and carbomers.

The base Bl, in the invention, does not contain dyes, colored pigments or active ingredients for skin care. On the other hand, the cosmetic composition according to the invention may contain dyes and / or colored pigments and / or active ingredients for caring for the skin. Indeed, these compounds can falsify the measurements of the values of L, a and b of the interference pigments introduced into the cosmetic composition of the invention. These values of L, a and b are therefore, in the invention, measured only on the mixture of base Bl and interference pigments.

As interference pigments, an interference pigment based on synthetic mica, preferably synthetic fluorphlogopite (name INCI: Synthetic Fluorphlogopite) coated with titanium dioxide (TiOa, name INCI: Titanium Dioxide) is preferably used.

The color of the light reflected by the interference pigments depends on the thickness of the titanium layer.

The interference pigments which can be used in the invention may however also include traces of other compounds, such as, for example, manufacturing adjuvants such as tin oxide (SnCh) at a content of less than 1% by weight relative to to the total mass of the interference pigment.

The use of a synthetic mica makes it possible to avoid variations in appearance in mass of the compositions in which they are introduced, such as variations in color or graying in which they are introduced.

Titanium dioxide can be in the form of rutile or anatase, the rutile form being the preferred form because Γ anatase is sometimes considered to be phototoxic.

Examples of interference pigments are KT pigments from KOBO, SunSHINF pigments. from the company SunChemical and the pigments HELIOS RIO from the company IMCD.

Although not based on mica, boron nitride also forms part, for the purposes of the invention, of the interference pigments used.

The interference pigments preferred in the invention are the pigments of C81-4060 SunSHINE® Soft Green, C81-4010 SunSHINE® Soft Gold, C81-4030 SunSHINE® Soft Red, C81-4050 SunSHINE * Soft Blue and boron nitride because, in particular, their particle size makes it possible to obtain a natural effect. Indeed, when the particles of interference pigments have a number-average diameter when compared to a sphere (D50) greater than 40 micrometers, they are visible to the naked eye and give an unnatural "glitter" effect on the skin. Preferably, the D50 is less than 25 micrometers.

The combination of interference pigments Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N4 and N5 used in the cosmetic composition of the invention must include at least two interference pigments reflecting complementary colors in the space L a b.

The number of interference pigments used in combination is preferably between 3 and 5.

Each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ and N ₅ is present in the base B1 in percentages by mass relative to the total mass of the base B1 respectively denoted xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ and X5.

To obtain a cosmetic composition which makes it possible to reflect white light, the amounts of interference pigments N _b N ?, N ₃ , N4 and N ₅ in the base B1 must be such that - 0.5 <ai (xi) + a ₂ (x ₂ ) + a ₃ (x ₃ ) + a4 (x4) + a ₅ (x ₅ ) <+0.5. The b values of the interference pigments must also be such that - 0.5 <b (xi) + b ₂ (x ₂ ) + b ₃ (x ₃ ) + b ₄ (x ₄ ) + b ₅ (x ₅ ) <+0.5.

However, and in contrast to the prior art, these values of a and b will be measured not in reflection but in transmission.

When measured in transmission, it is possible to reliably select the respective quantities of mother-of-pearl to be used.

The values ai (xi), a ₂ (x ₂ ), a ₃ (x ₃ ), a4 (x <) and as (xs) are the values of a measured in transmission at the percentages respectively xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , X4 and x ₅ of the interference pigments Ni, N?, N ₃ , N4 and N ₅ .

To know the values ai (xi), a ₂ (x ₂ ), a ₃ (x ₃ ), a4 (x ₄ ) and a ₅ (x ₅ ), each pigment is measured in the base Bl alone at least three percentages PI, P2, P3 by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl, the percentages Pl, P2 and P3 being between 0 and 10%.

Once the measurements in transmission of the values of a and b in the base Bl of each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ and N _{5 have been} measured, we draw calibration curves for each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ and N ₅ , showing the evolution of the value of a and the value of b as a function of the variation of their percentage Pl, P2 and P3 in the base Bl

The values of ai (xi), a ₂ (x ₂ ), a ₃ (x ₃ ), a4 (x ₄ ), a ₅ (x ₅ ) and bi (xi), b ₂ (x ₂ ), b ₃ ( x ₃ ), b ₄ (x ₄ ), b ₅ (x ₅ ) will therefore be the values of a and the values of b at the percentages respectively xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ and X5 measured on the curves.

The third condition to be fulfilled is the choice of a total percentage of interference pigments to be introduced into the cosmetic composition.

This total quantity is noted X in the following.

Thus, we will also have to satisfy the following condition:

Χ1 + Χ2 + Χ3 + Χ4 + Χ5 = X.

in which x _b x _2î and x ₃ are greater than 0 (at least three interference pigments) and x ₄ and X5 are greater than or equal to 0.

The number n of interference pigments used is also fixed.

Once the total quantity X and the number n of interference pigments have been chosen, the following three equations must be solved:

(1) ai (xi) + a ₂ (x2) + a ₃ (x ₃ ) + a4 (x4) + a5 (x5) = 0 (2) bi (xi) + b ₂ (x?) + B ₃ ( x ₃ ) + b ₄ (x ₄ ) + b ₅ (xs) - 0 (3) X1 + X2 + X3 + X4 + X5 = X with the value of ai to as and b] to bs introduced into these equations corresponding to values recorded on the calibration curves plotted, at the percentages x _b x ₂ , X3, x ₄ , and X5.

Of course, if only three interference pigments are used, x ₄ and X5 will be worth 0, and if only four interference pigments are used, x ₅ will be worth 0.

To solve this system of equations, we use a solver such as the solver found on http://wims.unice.fr/winis/wims.cgi.

With the system of three equations above:

- if the number of interference pigments is 3, the solver offers a unique solution,

- if the number of interference pigments is 4, the solver offers several solutions for the values x _b x ₂ , X3, and x ₄ , these solutions depending on the value of x ₄ . In this case it will be necessary to set a value for x ₄ . This value must be such that xi + x ₂ + X3 + x ₄ = X and such that none of x _b x ₂ , x ₂ , and x ₄ is less than or equal to 0,

- if the number of interference pigments is 5, the solver offers several solutions for the values x _b x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄₎ and x ₅ , these solutions depending on the value of x ₄ and X5. In this case it will be necessary to set a value for x ₄ and for X5.

The values determined by the solver are multi-digit values after the decimal point.

These values are reduced to numbers to the nearest hundredth, which reduces the number of possible solutions.

Solutions are also chosen in which each interference pigment is in an amount less than or equal to 3.5%, if such solutions are proposed.

A proposed solution is chosen and this combination of interference pigments is then introduced into the chosen base B1 and the values of a and b of the composition obtained are measured.

The solution (s) for which the values of a and b of the composition obtained are such that - 0.5 <a <+ 0.5 and - 0.5 <b <+ 0.5 are retained.

Preferably, the sum X representing the total quantity of mother-of-pearl is between 0.5 and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the base B1.

Indeed, below 0.5%, the effect of reflected light provided by the interference pigments is insufficient and beyond 10%, the effect is no longer natural.

In addition, in order to obtain a natural effect, the L value of each interference pigment used in the cosmetic composition of the invention must be greater than or equal to 88% and the Haze value of the final cosmetic composition must be greater. or equal to 50%.

Haze is the blur index provided by the cosmetic composition.

It is expressed as a percentage which is calculated according to the following equation:

% Haze = (diffuse transmitted light / total transmitted light) xlOO

Haze provides an optical effect of tight skin texture (little visible pores).

The value of the% Haze of the cosmetic composition can be adjusted by adding colorless or white, colorless or white fillers (pulverulent materials), insoluble in the other components of the cosmetic composition of the invention, including at temperature of manufacturing these compositions.

These fillers can be mineral or synthetic, lamellar or non-lamellar.

Examples of such fillers are talc, mica, kaolin, nylon, polyethylene powders, starches, boron nitride, polymethyl methacrylate powders, polyurethane powders, and hydroxyapatite.

Preferably, the total amount X of interference pigments introduced into the base B1 is between 5 and 7% by mass relative to the total mass of the base BL Most preferably, the total amount X of interference pigments introduced in the base Bl is equal to 3.5% by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl.

The cosmetic composition may also contain a humectant such as glycerin, a chelating agent such as EDTA, and / or preservatives such as propanediol, ethylhexylglycerin, caprylyl glycol and phenoxyethanol.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise an active ingredient for caring for the skin.

By active ingredient is meant an ingredient useful for improving the appearance and condition of the skin or for producing long-term or temporary benefits.

Active skin care ingredients include, but are not limited to vitamins, peptides and peptide derivatives, sugar amines, sunscreens, oil control agents, flavonoids, antioxidants, preservatives , phytosterols, protease inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatory agents, plant extracts, and mixtures thereof.

These skin care agents can provide more benefit or work through more than one mode of action.

Non-limiting examples of plant extract are a sabline extract (very colored), a lemon thyme extract (colored), and a mint extract (colorless).

By way of example, the composition of the present invention can comprise one or more vitamins, for example to provide an antioxidant effect or nutritional benefits to the skin.

The term "vitamin" in the present invention means vitamins, provitamins and their salts, their isomers and their derivatives.

Vitamins can include water-soluble vitamins such as, for example, vitamin B compounds including vitamin B3 compounds such as niacinamide, nicotinic acid, C1 to nicotinic acid esters and nicotinyl alcohol , vitamin B compounds such as pyroxidine and vitamin B5 compounds such as panthenol or "pro-B5", and vitamin C compounds including fatty acid ascorbyl esters and ascorbic acid derivatives, for example for example ascorbyl glucoside, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl sorbate and their mixtures.

Vitamins may also include vitamins with limited water solubility such as vitamin A compounds and all synthetic and / or natural analogs of vitamin A including retinoids, carotenoids, and other compounds which possess the biological activity of vitamin A; vitamin D compounds, vitamin E or tocopherol compounds, including tocopherol sorbate, tocopherol acetate, or other tocopherol esters, vitamin K compounds and mixtures thereof.

Vitamins can represent from 0.001% to about 10% of the total cosmetic composition.

It is important to clarify here that the values of a and b measured in transmission must be measured only on the basis of Bl, that is to say not including the active skin care ingredients mentioned here.

Among the peptides and peptide derivatives which can be used as active skin care ingredients are peptides which help repair the skin, exfoliate it and provide other benefits to the skin.

The term "peptide" here refers to peptides containing 10 or less amino acids, their derivatives, their isomers and complexes with other species such as metal ions (for example, copper, zinc, manganese, and magnesium). As used herein, the term "peptide" refers to natural and synthesized peptides.

The peptides can be di-, tri-, tetra-, penta-, and hexa-peptides, their salts, isomers, derivatives and mixtures.

Examples of useful peptide derivatives include but are not limited to peptides derived from soy proteins, palmitoyl-lysine-threonine (palKT) and palmitoyl-lysine-threonine-threonine-lysine-serine (pal-KTTKS), such as those known as MATRIXYL®, palmitoyl-glycine-glutamine-proline-arginine (palGQPR), such as those sold in the composition RIGIN® from the company Sederma, France, and Cu-histidine-glycine-glycine (Cu-HGG) also known under the name IAMIN®.

The peptides and peptide derivatives can represent from 1x10 ⁷ % to around 20% of the cosmetic composition.

As active ingredients, it is also possible to use a sugar amine, such as amino sugars and their salts, isomers, tautomers and derivatives.

The sugar amines can be synthetic or natural and can be used alone or as a mixture such as, for example, extracts from natural sources or mixtures of synthetic materials. For example, glucosamine is commonly found in many shellfish and can also be derived from fungal sources. Sugar amine compounds useful in the present invention include, for example, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine.

The composition of the present invention can comprise one or more solar active agents (or solar agent) and / or ultraviolet light absorbers which can be can be organic or inorganic. Examples of useful solar active ingredients include benzophenone, benzophenone-1, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, benzophenone-4, benzophenone-5, benzophenone-6, benzophenone-7, benzophenone-8, benzophenone9, benzophenone-10, benzophenone -11, benzophenone-12, benzotriazolyl dodecyl pcresol, 3-benzylidene camphor, benzylidene camphor sulfonic acid, benzyl salicylate, bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, bomelone, bumetrizole, methoxydibenzoyl-methane-butane-ABP ), cinnamidopropyl-trimonium chloride, cinoxate, naphthalene dibenzoxazoyl, camphor hydroxy-benzylidene di-t-butyl, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, diethylhexyl 2,6-naphthalate, ethyl cinisopropyl cinnamate, cinnamate , di-methoxycinnamido-propyl ethyldimonium chloride ether, cetearyldimonium ethyl dimethyl tosylate PABA, dimorpholino-pyridazinone, dimo rpholino-pyridazinone, disodium triaminotriazine stilbenedisulfonate biséthylphényl, disodium distyrylbiphenyl disulfonate, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, drometrizole, drometrizole trisiloxane, dihydroxypropyl PABA ethyl, ethyl diisopropyl-cinnamate, melamine bisisopentylbenzoxazolylphényl ethylhexyl dimethoxybenzylidene dioxoimidazolidine propionate, ethyl dimethyl PABA d ethylhexyl, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, ethyl methoxycinnamate, ethyl PABA, ethyl urocanate, etocrylene, 2-propoxy-hydroxybenzophenone 4- (2-beta siloxy), dimethoxycinnamate glyceryl ethylhexanoate, PABA glyceryl, glycol salicylate, hexanediol disalicylate, isoamyl cinnamate, isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate, trisiloxane trimethoxy-cirmamate isopentyl, salicylmylenzyl isopropyl acetyl isopropyl, isopropyl methoxy-cinnamate, galangal root extract, menthyl anthranilate, menthyl salicylate, methoxycinnamido-propyl hydroxysultaine, laurdimonium methoxycinnamido-propyl tosylate, 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, bisoctrizole, octoryl

P ΑΒΑ, phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid, benzylidene polyacrylamidomethyl camphor, polyamide-2, polyquatemium-59, polysilicone-15, potassium methoxycinnamate, potassium phenyl-benzimidazole sulfonate, red petroleum jelly, butylphenol benzotriazidylazonazin sodium sulfonate sodium, TEA-phenylbenzimid-azole sulfonate, salicylic acid compound with 2,2 ', 2 ”-nitrilotriethanol, dicamphor terephthalylidene sulfonic acid, tetrabutyl phenyl hydroxybenzoate, titanium dioxide, urocanic acid, zinc cerium oxide, zinc oxide, and their mixtures.

The composition of the present invention may include one or more components used to regulate the production of body oil, or sebum, and to improve the appearance of oily skin. Useful examples of oil control agents include salicylic acid, dehydroacetic acid, benzoyl peroxide, components of vitamin B3 (e.g., niacinamide), their isomers, esters, salts and derivatives, and their mixtures.

The composition of the present invention may include a flavonoid, for example to provide antioxidant effects. The flavonoid can be a synthetic substance or obtained from extracts from natural sources, which can also be derived. Examples of useful flavonoids include, but are not limited to, unsubstituted flavanones, methoxy flavanone, unsubstituted chalcone, 2'4-dihydroxy chalcone, and mixtures thereof. In one embodiment, the flavonoids are unsubstituted flavanones, unsubstituted chalcone (especially the trans-isomer), their glucosylated derivatives, and mixtures thereof.

The composition of the present invention may include non-vitamin antioxidants, preservatives, phytosterols and / or plant hormones, protease inhibitors, tyrosinase inhibitors, anti-inflammatory agents and N-acyl amino acid compounds .

Useful non-vitamin antioxidants include, but are not limited to, butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), tetrahydrocurcumin, cetylpyridinium chloride, carnosine, diethylhexyl syringylidenemalonate (available under the brand name OXYNEX ™), ubiquinone (coenzyme Q10), and combinations thereof.

Useful examples of plant sterols and / or plant hormones include, but are not limited to, disosterol, stigmasterol, campesterol, brassicasterol, kinetin, zeatin, and mixtures thereof.

Useful protease inhibitors include, but are not limited to, hexamidine, vanilla acetate, menthyl anthranilate, and mixtures thereof.

Useful tyrosinase inhibitors include, but are not limited to, white mustard seed extract, tetrahydrocumin, cetylpyridinium chloride, and mixtures thereof.

Useful anti-inflammatory agents include, but are not limited to, glycyrrhizic acid (also known as glycyrrhizin, and glycyrrhetinic glycoside acid), glycyrrhetinic acid, and combinations thereof.

Other skin care active ingredients used include dehydroepiandrosterone (DHEA), its analogs and derivatives; alpha and beta hydroxy acids, including glycolic acid and octanoyl salicylate, arbutin, dimethylaminoethanol (DMAE), kojic acid, dihydroxy acetone (DHA), soy proteins and peptides, of their isomers, salts, and derivatives, and their mixtures.

The composition of the present invention may include particulate matter. Particulate matter can be derived from inorganic, organic, natural, and synthetic sources, and can be a treated surface. Nonlimiting examples of useful materials include almond powder, alumina, aluminum oxide, aluminum silicate, apricot seed powder, attapulgite, barley flour, bismuth oxychloride, boron nitride, calcium carbonate, calcium phosphate, calcium pyrophosphate, calcium sulfate, cellulose, chalk, chitin, l clay, corncob flour, corncob powder, cornmeal, cornmeal, cornstarch, diatomaceous earth, dicalcium phosphate, dicalcium phosphate dihydrate, fuller's earth, hydrated silica, hydroxyapatite, iron oxide, jojoba seed powder, kaolin, loofah, magnesium trisilicate, mica, microcrystalline cellulose, montmorillonite green clay, oat bran, oatmeal, oat groats, kernel powder peach, pecan flour, polybutylene, polyethylene, polyisobutylene, polymethylstyrene, polypropylene, polystyrene, polyurethane, nylon * TEFLON® (i.e. polytetrafluoroethylene) , polyhalogenated olefins, rice bran, rye flour, sericite, silica, silk, sodium bicarbonate, sodium silicoaluminate, talc, tin oxide, titanium dioxide, tricalcium phosphate, nutshell powder, wheat bran, wheat flour, wheat starch, zirconium silicate, and mixtures thereof

The cosmetic composition of the present invention may comprise a structuring agent.

The structuring agent helps to obtain the rheological characteristics of the composition which contributes to the stability of the composition.

The structuring agents of the present invention can be selected from the group consisting of stearic acid, palmitic acid, stearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, behenyl alcohol, palmitic acid , polyethylene glycol ester of stearyl alcohol having an average of about 1 to about 5 units of ethylene oxide, and mixtures thereof.

The cosmetic composition of the invention may also comprise one or more organic dyes, of plant or animal origin or synthetic. Examples of such dyes include, but are not limited to, FDC Blue 1, FDC red 4, anthocyanins, chlorophyll, and carmine.

It should not contain inorganic pigments other than interference pigments.

The amount of dyes of the cosmetic composition of the invention preferably does not represent more than 0.02% by mass relative to the total mass of the cosmetic composition of the invention.

Indeed, although the interference pigments do not modify the color of the cosmetic composition provided by the dyes or little, putting too much dyes leads to a cosmetic composition which could stain the skin

In order to better understand the invention, we will describe non-limiting and purely illustrative examples of implementation, with reference to the accompanying drawings in which:

FIG. 1 represents the variations in the values of a and b of the base Bl as a function of the% by mass, relative to the mass of the base Bl, of yellow interference pigment, C81-4010 Sunshine * Soft Gold introduced in this base Bl,

FIG. 2 represents the variations in the values of a and b of the base Bl as a function of the% by mass, relative to the mass of the base Bl, of red interference pigment, C81-4030 Sunshine * Soft Red introduced in this base Bl,

FIG. 3 represents the variations in the values of a and b of the base Bl as a function of the% by mass, relative to the mass of the base Bl, of blue interference pigment, C81-4050 Sunshine® Soft Blue introduced in this base Bl,

FIG. 4 represents the variations in the values of a and b of the base Bl as a function of the% by mass, relative to the mass of the base Bl, of green interference pigment, C81-4060 Sunshine * 'Soft Green introduced into this base Bl,

Example 1: Method for measuring the values of L, a and b

Equipment used :

- Automatic applicator Bykodrive G (BYK), called in the following text "Automatic applicator"

- Square Frame 2 square applicator, 1-8 mils (BYK), called in the following text "Square applicator"

- Byko-chart PE films of 50 pm (BYK), called in the following text "Byko-chart PE films"

- C3600d spectrocolorimeter (Konica-Minolta) connected to a computer with SpectraMagic NX professional version software.

Measuring principle:

For each sample, a measurement is made of the values of a and b in transmission.

For each of the measurements carried out, a D65 illuminant and a 10 ° observer are chosen.

The spectrocolorimeter performs two measurements:

- The first measurement, on a white background, allows to obtain the total transmission, i.e. all the light transmitted (specular / direct + diffuse) by the sample.

- The second measurement, with a light trap at the level of the specular, measures the diffuse transmission, that is to say only the light which has been diffused by the particles without the specular transmission.

The spectral measurements obtained are then averaged over the entire visible spectrum (400 to 700 nm) to obtain the values of total transmission and diffuse transmission.

The value of L is also measured in transmission.

Film preparation

Once the nacres have been introduced at the desired percentage, in the base B1, a thin and uniform film of these compositions must be prepared in order to be able to carry out the measurements with the spectrocolorimeter.

- On the automatic applicator, fix a PE Byko-chart film using the clamp supplied with the spectrocolorimeter.

- The movable bar is moved using the arrow buttons.

- Make sure that it is correctly positioned on the far left by pressing the left arrow.

- Place the square applicator against the movable bar. Depending on how it is placed, this applicator makes it possible to obtain films of 8 different thicknesses (from 1 to 8 mils, 1 mils = 25 pm). The possible thicknesses are indicated on the sides of the applicator. The thickness chosen will be that engraved on the side of the applicator in contact with the movable bar, at the bottom. The thickness used for the measurements is 50 µm (2 mils).

- Deposit a fairly large amount of composition comprising the interference pigment (s) to be tested in the applicator.

- Attach the weight bar to the movable bar in order to exert pressure on the square applicator.

- Launch the film application by pressing the right arrow. It is possible to stop the movable bar before it stops automatically by pressing this button again.

- Let the film dry for 24 hours at room temperature.

Spectrocolorimeter measurements

Place the LAV mask on the spectrocolorimeter and position the white standard.

- Open the SpectraMagic NX software and check the basic parameters:

X In the "Instrument" menu, click on "Instrument settings". Then select Transmission, LAV, and check the “Opacity / Haze” box.

X In the "Data" menu, check that the D65 illuminant is the reference illuminant by clicking on "Observers / Illuminants".

X Still in the "Data" menu, click on "List items" to display the Haze index in the list of measurements.

- Proceed to the calibration of the spectrocolorimeter.

- Perform the 0% calibration by closing the beam using the cover (inside the sphere, where the sample is placed for the measurements) and the 100% with the PE film Byko-chart alone .

The film to be measured must be pre-cut so that the sample is correctly positioned in the sphere (measuring circle completely covering the film). The sample is placed on the product side towards the detector.

The measurements are then carried out.

The measurement on a black background is done by placing the light trap in front of the device (on the LAV mask) while the measurement on a white background is done by placing the white standard there.

Example 2: Manufacture of a base Bl

In this example, the base B1 has the following composition:

Compounds (EU INCI names) Function % by weight / total weight of the composition Demineralized water (aqua) 69.05 Disodium EDTA Chelating agent 0.05 Glycerin (glycerin) Humectant 5 Propanediol 2 Ethylhexylglycerin Preservatives 0.2 Phenoxyethanol 0.5 Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer ¹ Emulsifying gelling polymer 1.2 Dimethicone Silicone oil 10

Aristoflex AVC marketed by Clariant

Base preparation protocol:

Cold emulsion

- Weigh 0.6 g of EDTA into a beaker, then add 828.6 g of water and stir with a Rayneri deflocculator until the EDTA is dissolved: phase A was obtained.

- Weigh into a stainless steel dish 60.0 g of glycerin, 24.0 g of propanediol, 2.4 g of ethylhexylglycerine (SENSIVA SC 50) and 6.0 g of phenoxyethanol and premix with a maryse: we obtained phase B.

- Add phase B to the beaker containing phase A, with stirring with the deflocculator. Shake for 5 minutes.

- Add 1 ’Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer (phase C) with stirring with the Rayneri deflocculator in the vortex. Stir until the Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate / VP Copolymer is homogenized.

- Emulsify by adding dimethicone (phase D) (DIMETHICONE 5 CST OIL M 5) to the beaker with stirring with the Rayneri deflocculator. Leave to stir for 5 min.

Example 3: Manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to the invention

Principle

The following steps are carried out (a) selection of n interference pigments Ni, N ?, N ₃ , N4, N5, with 3 <n <5, at least two of which reflect complementary colors, and each having a value of L in the system L ab greater than or equal to 80%, on a white background,

base Bl, of each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N ₅ , taken individually, at least three percentages PI, P2, P3 by mass relative to the total mass of base Bl, different between 0.5% and 10%, (e) measurement in transmission of the values of b, in the system L ab,

and, from these measurements, plotting of calibration curves, for each

(f) determination, from these calibration curves of the quantities xi,

in transmission to the percentages respectively x _b x ₂ , xj, x ₄ , X5, in the Lab system respectively interference pigments Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N5, (2) - 0.5 <b ( xi) + b ₂ (x ₂ ) + b ₃ (x ₃ ) + b ₄ (x ₄ ) + b ₅ (x ₅ ) <+0.5 with bi (xi), b ₂ (x ₂ ), b ₃ (x ₃ ), b ₄ (x ₄ ), being respectively the values of b measured, in the base Bl, in transmission to the percentages respectively xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ , X5, in the system L ab of the pigments interference Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , Ν _3ι (3) x 1 + x ₂ + x ₃ + x ₄ + X5 = X chosen in step c), (g) mixture of the base Bl with the quantities xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ , X5 of the interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N _5j determined in step f).

Preferably the sum X = xj + x ₂ + x ₃ + x ₄ + x ₅ is 3 and 7%.

More preferably, the sum X = x, + x ₂ + x ₃ + x ₄ + X5 is 3.5%.

Also preferably, the percentages P1, P2 and P3 are respectively 1%, 1.75% and 3.5%.

(h) optionally, adding at least one active ingredient for skin care in the cosmetic composition.

(i) optionally adding a Haze-enhancing agent to the cosmetic composition.

Example 4: Manufacture of a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprising 4 interference pigments.

Four interference pigments were selected to be added to the composition according to the present invention:

- C81-4030 SunSHINE® Soft Bed (Supplier: SunChemical ®)

INCI nomenclature: Titanium Dioxide & Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Composition:

58-69% titanium dioxide (CAS 13463-67-7) and

31-42% synthetic fluorphlogopite (CAS 12003-38-2) <1% SnO ₂

Hereinafter called sss red.

- C81-4060 SunSHINE® Soft Green (Supplier: SunChemical ®)

INCI nomenclature: Titanium Dioxide & Synthetic Fluorphlogopite

Composition:

71-82% titanium dioxide (CAS 13463-67-7)

18-29% synthetic fluorphlogopite (CAS 12003-38-2) <1% SnO ₂

Hereinafter called sss green.

- C81-4010 SunSHINE® Soft Gold (Supplier: SunChemical ®) INCI classification: Titanium Dioxide & Synthetic Fluorphlogopite Composition:

52-63% titanium dioxide (CAS 13463-67-7)

37-48% synthetic fluorphlogopite (CAS 12003-38-2) <1% SnO ₂

Hereinafter called sss gold.

- C81-4050 SunSHINE® Soft Blue (Supplier: SunChemical ®) INCI classification: Titanium Dioxide & Synthetic Fluorphlogopite Composition:

64-75% titanium dioxide (CAS 13463-67-7)

25-36% synthetic fluorphlogopite (CAS 12003-38-2) <1% SnO ₂

Hereinafter called sss blue.

Before you can determine the percentage of each interference pigment to add to the composition, it is necessary to perform calibration curves (step e).

For this, each of these four interference pigments are formulated in the formulation base B1 obtained in Example 2, at the percentages PI of approximately 1%, P2 of approximately 1.75%, P3 of approximately 3.5%, and P4 of approximately 7%, by mass relative to the total basic mass B1. Although these percentages are given with values of "approximately", they are calculated precisely from the quantity of interference pigment actually weighed.

The values of a and b are measured for each of these percentages. The values obtained from a and b measured in transmission (average of 3 measurements) are grouped in the tables which follow.

Amount of red interference pigment (C81-4030 SunSHINE® Soft Red) in the formulation base (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition)  has' ό measured b measured haze measured / The 5 measured 0.3 -0.24 0.2 99.96 1 4.03 0.9 28.46 98.29 1.75 4.85 1.5 40.85 96.95 3.5 -3.642 2.92 61.93 94.69

Amount of blue interference pigment (C81-4050 SunSHINE® Soft Blue) in the formulation base (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) ' ' at ? measured b measured haze measured  The 4 measured 0.3 0.14 0.59 16.87 99.19 0.5 0.21 0.95 19.72 98.9 1 0.42 1.93 26.51 98.12 1.75 0.78 3.15 35.35 97.07 3.5 1.67 6.47 56 94.41

Amount of green interference pigment (C81-4060 SunSHINE® Soft Green) in the formulation base (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) has measured b measured L measured haze measured 0.5 0.56 -0.06 98.65 0.94 1.04 -0.32 97.8 1.26 1.37 -0.47 3.5 3.55 4.08 92.88 46

Amount of yellow interference pigment (C81-4010 SunSHINE® Soft Gold) in the formulation base (% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition) at measured b measured -0.84 haze measured 'L'; measured 1 -0.5 28 56 175 -0.86 -1.63 38 95.8 3.5 -1.74 -3.018 56 93.2 7 -2.97 -5 80 88.3

For each of these interference pigments, a calibration curve is modeled by a polynomial regression model.

We note on these curves a slope change point from which the variation of a and b is polynomial whereas before it is linear.

With the interference pigments used in this example, this slope change point is around 3.5%.

It will be clear to those skilled in the art that for other pigments, the inflection point may be at other percentage values of each pigment and the calibration curves modeled by a linear regression model will be then to draw between 0 and this inflection point.

We then draw the calibration curve modeled by a linear regression model for each interference pigment between 0 and 3.5%.

The calibration curves obtained are shown in Figures 1 to 4 attached.

As seen in Figure 1:

- the variation of a of the yellow interference pigment (sss gold) varies according to the equation y _r = -0.4972 xi + 0.0025 and the variation of b of the yellow interference pigment (sss gold) varies according to the equation y'i = -0.8574xi - 0.0432.

As seen in Figure 2:

- the variation of a of the red interference pigment (sss red) varies according to the equation y ₂ = -1.0593x2 + 0.0442 and the variation of b of the red interference pigment (sss red) varies according to the equation y'7 = 0.8395x7 + 0.0052.

As seen in Figure 3:

- the variation of a of the blue interference pigment (sss blue) varies according to the equation y ₃ = -0.4822x3.0.036 and the variation of b of the red interference pigment (sss red) varies according to the equation y ' ₃ = 1.8299x ₃ + 0.0378.

As seen in Figure 4:

- the variation of a of the green interference pigment (sss green) varies according to the equation y ₄ = 0.9891x4 + 0.0969 and the variation of b of the green interference pigment (sss green) varies according to the equation y'4 = -0.3192x4 - 0.0123.

We choose to use a total of 3.5% interference pigments.

The system of equations to be solved is as follows:

(1) X] + X2 + x ₃ + X4 = 3.5 (2) (-0.4972xi ₊ 0.0025) + (-l, 0593x ₂ + 0.0442) + (-0.4822x ₃ .. ... 0.036) + (0.9891x ₄₊ 0.0969) = 0 (3) (-0.8574xi - 0.0432) + (0.8395x ₂ + 0.0052) + (1.8299x ₃ + 0 , 0378) + (-0.3192x4 ^ 0.0123) = 0

Calculation using the linear solver and solutions proposed by the solver.

x ₄ = 2.221540465030292-0.8253908841568934 rl, x3 = 0.7450737038563265 rl-0.5704691817442717, x2 = 1.848928716713979-0.9196828196994331 rl, rl = xi.

SOLUTION 1

Taking rl = 1, and rounding the numbers to the hundredth, we get: xi (yellow) = 1, x ₂ (red) = 0.95, x ₃ (blue) = 0.25 and x ₄ (green) = 1.30 xd

In order to obtain a composition making it possible to reflect a light of white color, we used:

- 1.30% green interference pigment

- 0.95% red interference pigment

- 0.25% blue interference pigment

- 1.00% yellow interference pigment.

These percentages are percentages by mass relative to the total mass of cosmetic composition according to the invention, including the interference pigments.

We weighed 96.5 g of base B1 and added 1.00 g of yellow interference pigment, 0.95 g of red interference pigment, 0.25 g of blue interference pigment and 1.29 g of green interference pigment.

The composition obtained was mixed.

The values of L, a, and b and of the Haze of the composition obtained were measured in transmission.

The values of L, a and b obtained were as follows:

L = 93.66667%, a = -0.01333 b = 0.09

Haze = 54.18

We then introduced into 99.9g of the composition obtained (base B1 + interference pigments), an extract of Harungana (name INCI Harungana) as a skin care agent.

Harungana extract is colored. It should therefore only be introduced after the measurements of a and b.

This extract is introduced in the form of a 1% solution, by mass, of Harungana extract in glycerin.

The amount of this solution introduced into the base composition B1 + interference pigments was 0.1 g.

SOLUTION 2

Taking rl = 1.7, and rounding the numbers to the nearest hundredth, we get:

xi (yellow) = 1.7, x ₂ (red) = 0.77, x ₃ (blue) = 0.32 and x ₄ (green) = 0.71

In order to obtain a composition making it possible to reflect a light of white color, we used:

- 0.71% green interference pigment

- 0.77% red interference pigment

- 0.32% blue interference pigment

- 1.70% yellow interference pigment.

These percentages are percentages by mass relative to the total mass of cosmetic composition according to the invention, including the interference pigments.

96.5 g of base B1 obtained in Example 2 were weighed and 1.70 g of yellow interference pigment, 0.77 g of red interference pigment, 0.32 g of interference pigment were introduced into it. blue and 0.71g of green interference pigment.

The composition obtained was mixed.

The values of L, a, and b and of the Haze of the composition obtained were measured in transmission.

The values of L, a and b obtained were as follows:

L = 93.5033333%, a = -0.132 b = 0.015

Haze = 54.16

We then introduced into 99.9 g of this composition (base B1 + interference pigments), a Harungana extract (INCI name Harungana) as a skin care agent.

This extract is introduced in the form of a 1% solution, by mass, of Harungana extract in glycerin.

The amount of this solution introduced into the base composition B1 + interference pigments was 0.1 g.

Claims (7)

1. Cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin, characterized in that it comprises: a cosmetically acceptable base B1 comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle, and - a combination of n interference pigments Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , Nj, with 3 <n <5, at least two of which reflect complementary colors, in that each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N5 is present in the base Bl in percentages by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl respectively xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ , X5, such as: (1) - 0.5 <ai (xi) + a ₂ (x ₂ ) + a ₃ (x ₃ ) + a ₄ (x ₄ ) + a5 (x5) <+0.5 with ai (xi), a ₂ (x ₂ ), a ₃ (x ₃ ), a ₄ (x4), a ₃ (x5) being respectively the values of a, measured in the base Bl, in transmission, at the percentages respectively xj, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ , x ₅ , in the L ab system respectively interference pigments N |, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N ₅ , (2) - 0.5 <b (xi) + b ₂ (x ₂ ) + b ₃ (x ₃ ) + b ₄ (x ₄ ) + b ₅ (x ₅ ) <+0.5, with bi (xi), b ₂ (x ₂ ), b ₃ (x ₃ ), b ₄ (x ₄ ), bs (xs) being respectively the values of b measured in the base Bl, in transmission to the percentages respectively xj, x ₂ , x ₃ , x ₄ , x ₅ , in the system L ab, of the pigments d interference Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N5, (3) the sum X = xj + x ₂ + x ₃ + x ₄ + x ₅ is between 0.5 and 10% by mass relative to the mass total of the base Bl, and in that the L value of each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N ₅ is greater than or equal to 88% and the Haze value of the compositi one cosmetic is greater than or equal to 50%. 2. Composition according to claim 1 characterized in that the sum X = xi + x ₂ + x ₃ + x ₄ + X5 is between 3 and 7% by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the sum X = xj + x ₂ + x ₃ + x ₄ + X5 is equal to 3.5% by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it has a Haze value greater than or equal to 80%. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one active ingredient for caring for the skin. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it additionally comprises at least one dye. 7. Method for manufacturing a cosmetic composition for the care and radiance of the skin according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: (a) selection of n interference pigments Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N4, N5, with 3 <n <5, at least two of which reflect complementary colors, and each having a value of L in the system L ab greater than or equal to 80%, on a white background, (b) selection of a cosmetically acceptable base Bl comprising at least one cosmetically acceptable vehicle, (c) choice of an amount X, between 0.5 and 10% by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl, of interference pigments Ni, N ?, N ₃ , N4, N ₅ , (d) measurement in transmission of the values a in the system L ab, in the base Bl, of each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N $, taken individually, at least three percentages PI, P2, P3 by mass relative to the total mass of the base Bl, different between 0 , 5% and 10%, (e) measurement in transmission of the values of the values of b, in the system L ab, in the base Bl, of each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N _3î N ₄ , Ns, to to me ns the three percentages PI, P2, P3, and, from these measurements, plotting of calibration curves, for each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N5, showing the evolution of the value of a and the value of b as a function of the variation in their percentage PI, P2, P3, in the base Bl, (f) determination, from these calibration curves of the quantities x _b x ₂ , X3, X4, x ₅ of each interference pigment Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N ₄ , N _5> to be introduced in combination into the base B1 by applying the following conditions: (1) - 0.5 <ai (xi) + a ₂ (x2) + a ₃ (x ₃ ) + a4 (x4) + a5 (x5) <+0.5 with ai (xi), a ₂ (x ₂ ), a3 (x ₃ ), a4 (x4), asix respectively being the values of a, measured, in the base NI, in transmission to the percentages respectively xi, x ₂ , x ₃ , X4, X5, in the system L ab respectively interference pigments Ni, N ₂ , N ₃ , N4, N5,