FR3084592A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present application relates to a cosmetic composition comprising - 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5%, by weight of a Getto extract; - 0.0001 to 0.02% by weight of peptides; 0.001 to 10% by weight of hyaluronic acid or a derivative of hyaluronic acid; 0.001 to 10% by weight of vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative

Description

Cosmetic composition

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition, more particularly a composition for caring for the skin. More particularly, the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition making it possible to combat all of the signs of aging (wrinkles, loss of firmness, elasticity, loss of radiance ...) by stimulating cell regeneration.

The effects of time and aging are reflected in particular by a decrease in cell regeneration resulting in the appearance of wrinkles, a loss of firmness, elasticity and luminosity of the skin.

Added to this are the effects of oxidative stress induced by pollution and stress, among other parameters, which reinforce these degradations.

There is therefore an advantage in proposing cosmetic compositions allowing at the same time an action on wrinkles, firmness, elasticity, radiance of the skin and luminosity of the complexion.

There is also an advantage in providing cosmetic compositions which improve the general appearance of the skin.

There is also an advantage in providing compositions which also make it possible to stimulate cell regeneration.

These objectives are fulfilled by the present invention which relates to a composition comprising:

- 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5%, by weight of a Getto extract;

- 0.0001 to 0.02% by weight of peptides;

- 0.001 to 10% by weight of hyaluronic acid or a derivative of hyaluronic acid;

- 0.001 to 10% by weight of vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative

In a particularly advantageous manner, the inventors have shown that the use of a Getto extract, in particular combined with peptides, hyaluronic acid or derivatives and vitamin C or derivatives, makes it possible to smooth wrinkles, and to improve firmness, elasticity, radiance of the skin and luminosity of the complexion, this association also advantageously makes it possible to stimulate cell regeneration.

The getto extract according to the invention can in particular be obtained according to a process comprising the steps of:

Provide dried and cut Getto leaves;

Extract the leaves obtained in a water / alcohol mixture, preferably water / propanediol at a temperature between 20 and 100 ° C, preferably between 30 and 80 ° C;

Filter the mixture obtained.

The Getto extract used is the filtrate obtained at the end of the implementation of the process described above, it therefore comprises the extraction solvent. The dry extract in active Getto, obtained after evaporation of the solvent, can for example be included 0.1 and 1% by weight of the total composition.

Preferably, in the Getto extraction process the ratio by weight of Getto sheets / solvent is between 1 and 10%.

Preferably, the filtration step is carried out with a filter of 1 to 5 μm and can be followed by an additional sterilizing filtration step with a filter of less than 1 μm, preferably less than 0.5 μm.

Preferably, the Getto extract, in particular resulting from the process described above, comprises the following elements:

- quercetin 3-O-glucoronide;

- dihydro-5,6-dehydrokavain;

- 5,6-dehydrokavain;

- quercetin-3-O-glucoside;

- kaempferol-3-O-glucuronide;

- kaempferol-3-O-glucoside.

The peptides of the composition according to the invention are in particular Palmitoyl Tripeptide 1 or Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7 or their mixtures, they are in particular described in application WO2005048968.

In the composition according to the invention, the term “hyaluronic acid derivatives” means the salts of hyaluronic acid and the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. Among the hyaluronic acid salts, mention may in particular be made of sodium hyaluronate.

In the context of the present invention, the term “vitamin C derivative” is understood to mean in particular (2R) -2 - [(1S) -1,2-dihydroxyethyl] -3-ethoxy-4-hydroxy-2H-furan-5-one or 3O-ethyl ascrobic acid.

The composition may also comprise an extract of brown algae, in particular an extract of Undaria Pinnatifida, this extract is an extract of gametophyte derived from the brown alga Undaria Pinnatifida. The composition of the invention may comprise from 0.001% to 2%, for example from 0.001% to 1% by weight of such an extract. Particularly advantageously, this active ingredient has antioxidant properties which are beneficial for the skin.

The composition of the invention may also comprise a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast extract and more or less acetylated glucuronic acid oligosaccharides (the degree of acetylation preferably being 9 +/- 1), preferably a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast extract and polyglucuronic acid. Such a mixture is described in particular in WO2010 / 067327. Thus, the composition of the invention can comprise from 0.001 to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001 to 5% by weight of hydrolysed yeast extract and from 0.001% to 0.5% by weight of polyglucuronic acid.

The composition according to the invention can also comprise fibroin proteins, in particular in the form of a gel. The composition can comprise from 0.001 to 0.2% by weight of fibroins.

The composition according to the invention can be in any form compatible with use in cosmetics. Thus, the composition of the invention can be a composition in powder form or a composition compatible with topical application. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a cream, a gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a lotion, an oil, a solution or microemulsion in which the components are dissolved or microdispersed. The composition of the invention can comprise any additive usually used in cosmetic compositions. As an additive which can be used in the composition of the invention, mention may in particular be made of: fatty substances, silicones, humectants, thickening agents, alcohols, bulking agents, UV filters, emulsifying agents, dyes, preservatives, perfumes.

Thus, the composition of the invention can also include:

90% by weight of one or more fatty substances; and / or 40% by weight of one or more silicones; and / or 40% by weight of one or more humectants; and / or 5% by weight of one or more thickening agents; and / or 70% by weight of at least one alcohol; and / or 90% by weight of at least one expanding agent; and / or 50% by weight of at least one UV filter; and / or 15% by weight of at least one emulsifying agent; and / or 5% by weight of at least one dye; and / or 30% by weight of at least one preservative; and / or 10% by weight of at least one perfume.

The fatty substance is in particular chosen from oils, in particular vegetable and mineral oils, waxes, fats, in particular fatty alcohol comprising a carbon chain of 12 to 26 carbon atoms, and their mixtures.

The silicones are especially chosen from volatile silicones, for example cyclopentasiloxane, dimethicone, and their mixtures.

The humectants are especially chosen from glycerin, propylene glycol, polyethylene glycol and their mixtures.

The thickening agents are in particular chosen from xanthan gum, carbomers, and their mixtures.

The alcohol is for example ethanol.

The bulking agent is especially chosen from talc, silica, nylon powder, and mixtures thereof.

The emulsifying agent is chosen from anionic, amphoteric, nonionic surfactants, for example polyethylene glycol stearate, ceteareth, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention is an aqueous composition.

The composition of the invention can be obtained by simple mixing of the various ingredients mentioned above.

The present invention also relates to the use of a composition as described above on the skin, in particular for improving the appearance of the skin and cell regeneration.

In a particularly advantageous manner, the present invention relates to the use of a composition according to the invention for smoothing wrinkles, and improving the firmness, the elasticity, the radiance of the skin and the luminosity of the complexion, in particular by stimulating the cell regeneration.

The present invention will now be described with the aid of nonlimiting examples.

Example 1: Composition according to the invention

The following composition is prepared:

Water 63.1% by weight

Getto extract 4% by weight (i.e. 0.12% by weight of active ingredient Getto) Humectant 8.11705% by weight

- Fat 15.951% by weight

Emulsifier: 3.2235% by weight

- Preservative 1.43% by weight

- 3-o-ethyl ascorbic acid 0.5% by weight

Thickener 0.365% by weight

Perfume 0.2% by weight

- Sodium hyaluronate 0.1% by weight

- 0.0003% by weight of Palmitoyl tripeptide 1 and 0.00015% by weight of Palmitoyl tetrapeptide 7;

- 2.9% lyophilized yeast extract and 0.023% polyglucuronic acid

- 0.063% by weight of fibroin

- 0.05% by weight of Undaria Pinnatifida extract

Example 2: Results

The composition of Example 1 was tested for 28 days by a group of 22 healthy adult females (46 to 66 years old, average age 60 years old), under dermatological control. Subjects present before the test phase wrinkles in the crow's feet, a lack of firmness in the face and a dull and tired complexion.

The product was applied twice a day for 28 days to the cleansed and dry face and neck.

The subjects remain in a room at temperature 200 +/- 2 ° C and controlled humidity (45 +/- 5%) RH) at least 15 minutes before the clinical scoring and at most 30 minutes before the instrumental measurements.

- Effect on the complexion

Before the start of the tests and after 28 days of use, an esthetician assesses the luminosity of the complexion in front of an Evalux Bench® table which allows the parameters to be evaluated under repeatable light conditions.

The scores given are as follows:

: very dull complexion, very little light, which does not reflect light, bad-looking appearance: very bright complexion, very bright, which returns light very well, good-looking aspect.

The average score obtained at the start of the study (JO) is 4.5 and the average score obtained after 28 days is 5.2 the variation compared to JO is 17% and the p value is 0, 0010, the results are therefore significant.

- Evaluation of the biomechanical properties of the skin by cutometry

The measurements are taken using the MPA580® Cutometer on the left or right cheekbone at D0 and after 28 days (D28). The use of this device makes it possible to obtain the parameters illustrating the viscoelastic properties of the skin. This method allows the measurement of the biomechanical properties of the skin after stretching. The following data are obtained:

R0 = Uf: total extensibility

Ue: immediate extensibility (elasticity)

UV: viscoelastic extensibility (plasticity)

Ur: immediate elastic return

R2 = Ua / Uf: total return ratio

R5 = Ur / Ue: elastic return rate

R7 = Ur / Uf: elastic return rate

R6 = Uv / Ue: viscoelasticity rate

- Uf represents the passive behavior of the skin with respect to the force applied. If this parameter decreases, the skin is firmer (tightening effect); if it increases, the skin is more supple.

- Ue represents the purely elastic behavior of the skin in stretching and the parameter Uv corresponds to its plastic behavior.

Settings Time Average score + / standard deviation % variation vs D0 Statistical test P-value significance uv D0 0.086 ± 0.012 - 8 Student 0.0193 Significant D28 0.080 ± 0,015 Ue D0 0.153 ± 0.042 + 10.8 Student 0.0082 Significant

D28 0.170 ± 0.044 Uv / Ue OJ 0.605 ± 0.184 - 19.5 Student 0.0006 Significant D28 0.487 ± 0.110

The evaluation of the biomechanical properties of the skin by cutometry shows a statistically significant decrease in the Uv and (Uv / Ue) parameters, a statistically significant increase in the Ue parameter. The combination of these variations makes it possible to demonstrate an improvement in the elasticity of the skin after 28 days of using the composition of the invention.

Furthermore, immediately after application:

77% of subjects consider having a plumped skin sensation, 86% a brighter skin, 77% a homogeneous and even complexion. For 73% of subjects wrinkles are smoothed and the skin more toned. For 86% of subjects, the skin is more comfortable, supple and more hydrated.

After 28 days of use:

77% of subjects consider that their wrinkles are smoothed, their skin is firmer, the complexion more radiant and luminous, the skin more beautiful.

73% of subjects consider that their skin is more toned and redensified.

86% of subjects consider that their skin is regenerated, more supple and more comfortable. 68% of subjects consider that their skin appears younger.

59% of subjects consider that the signs of aging appear blurred and the skin transformed.

82% of the subjects believe that their complexion is uniform, homogeneous and the skin better hydrated.

In addition, 86% of subjects believe that their skin is regenerated.

Claims (10)

1. Composition including: - 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.1 to 5%, by weight of a Getto extract; - 0.0001 to 0.02% by weight of peptides; - 0.001 to 10% by weight of hyaluronic acid or a derivative of hyaluronic acid; - 0.001 to 10% by weight of vitamin C or a vitamin C derivative 2. Composition according to Claim 1, in which the getto extract is obtained according to a process comprising the steps of: Provide dried and cut Getto leaves; Extract the leaves obtained in a water / alcohol mixture, preferably water / propanediol at a temperature between 20 and 100 ° C, preferably between 30 and 80 ° C; Filter the mixture obtained. 3. Composition according to claim 2, in which the Getto extraction process the ratio by weight of Getto sheets / solvent is between 1 and 10%. 4. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 3, in which the Getto extract comprises the following elements: - quercetin 3-O-glucoronide; - dihydro-5,6-dehydrokavain; - 5,6-dehydrokavain; - quercetin-3-O-glucoside; - kaempferol-3-O-glucuronide; - kaempferol-3-O-glucoside. 5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, in which the hyaluronic acid derivatives are the salts of hyaluronic acid and the hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid. 6. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 5, in which the vitamin C derivative is (2R) -2 - [(1S) -1,2-dihydroxyethyl] -3-ethoxy-4-hydroxy2H-furan -5-one. 7. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 6, further comprising: - an extract of brown algae, in particular an extract of Undaria Pinnatifida; and or a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast extract and more or less acetylated glucuronic acid oligosaccharides, preferably a mixture of hydrolyzed yeast extract and polyglucuronic acid: and / or - fibroin proteins, especially in the form of a gel. 8. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 characterized in that it is an aqueous composition. 9. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for stimulating cell regeneration. 10. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 7 for smoothing wrinkles, and improving firmness, elasticity, the radiance of the skin and the luminosity of the complexion.