FR3079416A1 - NOVEL COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION FOR UV PROTECTION - Google Patents
NOVEL COSMETIC OR DERMATOLOGICAL COMPOSITION FOR UV PROTECTION Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3079416A1 FR3079416A1 FR1870352A FR1870352A FR3079416A1 FR 3079416 A1 FR3079416 A1 FR 3079416A1 FR 1870352 A FR1870352 A FR 1870352A FR 1870352 A FR1870352 A FR 1870352A FR 3079416 A1 FR3079416 A1 FR 3079416A1
- Authority
- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition
- quercetin
- composition according
- oil
- skin
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
- Granted
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Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
- A61K31/335—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin
- A61K31/35—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom
- A61K31/352—Heterocyclic compounds having oxygen as the only ring hetero atom, e.g. fungichromin having six-membered rings with one oxygen as the only ring hetero atom condensed with carbocyclic rings, e.g. methantheline
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K31/00—Medicinal preparations containing organic active ingredients
- A61K31/33—Heterocyclic compounds
- A61K31/395—Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins
- A61K31/495—Heterocyclic compounds having nitrogen as a ring hetero atom, e.g. guanethidine or rifamycins having six-membered rings with two or more nitrogen atoms as the only ring heteroatoms, e.g. piperazine or tetrazines
- A61K31/505—Pyrimidines; Hydrogenated pyrimidines, e.g. trimethoprim
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4953—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom containing pyrimidine ring derivatives, e.g. minoxidil
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/4973—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/498—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with oxygen as the only hetero atom having 6-membered rings or their condensed derivatives, e.g. coumarin
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
- A61P17/18—Antioxidants, e.g. antiradicals
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Biochemistry (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Bioinformatics & Cheminformatics (AREA)
- Chemical Kinetics & Catalysis (AREA)
- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Nuclear Medicine, Radiotherapy & Molecular Imaging (AREA)
- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique, dermatologique, ou pharmaceutique qui comprend, en association, au moins un oligomère de quercétine, de l'ectoïne et au moins un filtre anti-UV; laquelle composition peut être utilisée pour la protection de la peau et/ou des phanères contre les rayonnements UV et IR.The present invention relates to a cosmetic, dermatological or pharmaceutical composition which comprises, in combination, at least one quercetin oligomer, ectoin and at least one anti-UV filter; which composition can be used for the protection of the skin and / or integuments against UV and IR radiation.
Description
Domaine de l’inventionField of the invention
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique pour la protection contre les rayonnements, que ce soit ultraviolet ou infrarouge.The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition for protection against radiation, whether ultraviolet or infrared.
Etat de l’art antérieurState of the prior art
Les cellules de la peau sont constamment exposées à des espèces réactives oxygénées (ROS ou « Reactive Oxygen Species ») et au stress oxydant (ou oxydatif) provenant de sources exogènes et endogènes.Skin cells are constantly exposed to reactive oxygen species (ROS or "Reactive Oxygen Species") and to oxidative (or oxidative) stress from exogenous and endogenous sources.
Parmi ces stress, les rayonnements ultraviolet (UV) et infrarouge (IR), par leur exposition répétée, constituent certainement les facteurs environnementaux les plus importants dans le développement du cancer de la peau et du vieillissement cutané. La lumière solaire est la source primaire de radiations UV et IR pour toutes les espèces vivantes. Les radiations UV, comme les radiations IR d’ailleurs, peuvent produire des dommages du fait de leur absorption par des substances endogènes ou exogènes et qui sont susceptibles d’entraîner la production de ROS. Ces espèces hautement réactives générées peuvent interagir avec des macromolécules cellulaires telles que des protéines, des acides gras et des saccharides en causant des dommages oxydants, mais aussi avec l’ADN dans lequel elles peuvent entraîner des mutations.Among these stresses, ultraviolet (UV) and infrared (IR) radiation, through their repeated exposure, are certainly the most important environmental factors in the development of skin cancer and skin aging. Sunlight is the primary source of UV and IR radiation for all living species. UV radiation, like IR radiation for that matter, can produce damage due to its absorption by endogenous or exogenous substances and which is capable of causing the production of ROS. These highly reactive generated species can interact with cellular macromolecules such as proteins, fatty acids and saccharides causing oxidative damage, but also with DNA in which they can cause mutations.
Il existe trois types de rayonnements UV qui sont classés en fonction de leur longueur d'onde. Pour l’intervalle de 320 à 400 nm, on a des UVA, pour l’intervalle 280 à 320 nm, on trouve les UVB et enfin, pour l’intervalle 100 à 280 nm, on trouve les UV. Les UVC sont complètement filtrés par la couche d'ozone et seuls les UV-A et les UV-B peuvent atteindre la surface terrestre. Le rayonnement UVB, s’il est minoritaire par rapport aux UVA dans le spectre solaire, est le constituant le plus nocif. En effet, sa réactivité est telle qu’il a une capacité 1 000 fois supérieure aux UVA à induire des coups de soleil et présente un fort pouvoir génotoxique. Maintenant, ces UVB pénètrent peu dans la peau et ils agissent principalement sur la couche épidermique basale dans laquelle ils induisent des dommages directs sur l'ADN (formation de dimères de pyrimidine). Le rayonnement UVA, même si moins dangereux, endommage également l’ADN. L’absorption des photons UVA entraîne en effet un transfert d’électrons et d’énergie de molécules photosensibles comme les porphyrines, la bilirubine ou la mélanine vers les molécules d’oxygène entraînant la formation d’oxygène singulet. Cet oxygène singulet a la capacité d’induire une oxydation du noyau guanine suivie d'un réarrangement structurel avec la formation de 8-oxo-7,8dihydroguanine (8-oxo-G) et de la 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro-2'-désoxyguanosine (8-oxodG). Ces deux espèces 8-oxo-G et8-oxo-dG ont ensuite tendance à s’associer à l’adénine en lieu et place de la cytosine et à entraîner une mutation Cytosine vers Thymine.There are three types of UV radiation which are classified according to their wavelength. For the interval from 320 to 400 nm, we have UVA, for the interval 280 to 320 nm, we find UVB and finally, for the interval 100 to 280 nm, we find UV. UVCs are completely filtered by the ozone layer and only UV-A and UV-B can reach the earth's surface. UVB radiation, if it is a minority compared to UVA in the solar spectrum, is the most harmful constituent. Indeed, its reactivity is such that it has a capacity 1,000 times greater than UVA to induce sunburn and has a strong genotoxic power. Now, these UVBs penetrate little into the skin and they act mainly on the basal epidermal layer in which they induce direct damage to DNA (formation of pyrimidine dimers). UVA radiation, although less dangerous, also damages DNA. The absorption of UVA photons results in a transfer of electrons and energy from photosensitive molecules such as porphyrins, bilirubin or melanin to oxygen molecules resulting in the formation of singlet oxygen. This singlet oxygen has the capacity to induce an oxidation of the guanine nucleus followed by a structural rearrangement with the formation of 8-oxo-7,8dihydroguanine (8-oxo-G) and 8-oxo-7,8-dihydro -2'-deoxyguanosine (8-oxodG). These two 8-oxo-G and 8-oxo-dG species then tend to associate with adenine in place of cytosine and cause a Cytosine to Thymine mutation.
Pour le rayonnement IR, il correspond à une onde électromagnétique de fréquence comprise entre le domaine visible 0,7 pm) et le domaine des micro-ondes (~ 1 mm). En fonction de la longueur d’onde, on trouvera les rayons IRA (de 700 à 1400 nm), IRB (de 1400 à 3000 nm) et IRC (de 3000 nm à 1 mm). Les IRA pénètrent en profondeur dans les couches cutanées, contrairement aux IRB et les IRC, et représentent près de 30% du total des rayonnements infrarouges avec 65% atteignant le derme et 15% l’hypoderme. Le rayonnement infrarouge va jouer un rôle important dans le photo-vieillissement cutané. En effet, ils sont à l’origine de la sensation de chaleur, créant ainsi de l’inflammation cutanée, provoquant des dommages oxydatifs (génèrent des radicaux libres) et affectant par là l’intégrité cellulaire.For IR radiation, it corresponds to an electromagnetic wave of frequency between the visible range 0.7 pm) and the microwave range (~ 1 mm). Depending on the wavelength, we will find the rays IRA (from 700 to 1400 nm), IRB (from 1400 to 3000 nm) and IRC (from 3000 nm to 1 mm). ARI penetrates deep into the skin layers, unlike IRB and CRI, and accounts for almost 30% of total infrared radiation with 65% reaching the dermis and 15% the hypodermis. Infrared radiation will play an important role in skin photoaging. Indeed, they are at the origin of the sensation of heat, thus creating skin inflammation, causing oxidative damage (generate free radicals) and thereby affecting cell integrity.
La réduction du stress oxydant induit par les UV et les IR peut être atteinte de deux manières:The reduction of oxidative stress induced by UV and IR can be achieved in two ways:
1) en réduisant l'exposition aux rayons UV et IR1) by reducing exposure to UV and IR rays
2) en augmentant les niveaux de défense antioxydante2) increasing antioxidant defense levels
La mélanine, qui est le pigment produit par les mélanocytes, constitue la première ligne de défense contre les dommages causés à l'ADN. Maintenant, cette mélanine ne peut pas totalement prévenir tous les dommages causés à la peau. Les processus de réparation complètent cette première ligne de défense en éliminant les molécules biologiques endommagées avant qu'elles ne puissent s'accumuler et avant que leur présence n’entraîne une modification du métabolisme cellulaire. Si en complément à cette protection, il est possible de limiter son exposition au soleil ou de porter des vêtements adaptés, ces solutions sont rarement celles qui sont préférées. Aussi, il est en général préféré d’utiliser des crèmes comprenant des écrans solaires et/ou des antioxydants. Maintenant, les solutions 5 disponibles ne sont pas toujours à la hauteur et il existe un besoin récurrent pour des compositions permettant de protéger la peau contre de tels stress oxydatifs.Melanin, the pigment produced by melanocytes, is the first line of defense against damage to DNA. Now, this melanin cannot totally prevent all damage to the skin. Repair processes complement this first line of defense by eliminating damaged biological molecules before they can accumulate and before their presence causes changes in cell metabolism. If in addition to this protection, it is possible to limit its exposure to the sun or to wear suitable clothing, these solutions are rarely those which are preferred. Also, it is generally preferred to use creams comprising sunscreens and / or antioxidants. Now, the solutions available are not always up to par and there is a recurring need for compositions which make it possible to protect the skin against such oxidative stresses.
Description détaillée de l’inventionDetailed description of the invention
De façon surprenante, la demanderesse a constaté que l’association d’un oligomère de quercétine, d’ectoïne et d’au moins un filtre anti-UV permettait d’obtenir une activité 10 synergique pour protection de la peau contre les rayonnements, notamment UV.Surprisingly, the Applicant has found that the combination of a quercetin oligomer, ectoin and at least one UV filter made it possible to obtain a synergistic activity for protecting the skin against radiation, in particular UV.
En conséquence, un premier objet de l’invention porte sur une composition, qui prend avantageusement la forme d’une composition cosmétique ou dermatologique, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend en association :Consequently, a first subject of the invention relates to a composition, which advantageously takes the form of a cosmetic or dermatological composition, characterized in that it comprises in combination:
• au moins un oligomère de quercétine ;• at least one quercetin oligomer;
• de l’ectoïne ; et • au moins un filtre anti-UV.• ectoin; and • at least one UV filter.
La quercétine est un flavonol appartenant à la famille des flavonoïdes qui sont une classe de polyphénols. La représentation de la quercétine est donnée ci-dessous :Quercetin is a flavonol belonging to the family of flavonoids which are a class of polyphenols. The representation of quercetin is given below:
HOHO
La quercétine est présente dans de très nombreuses plantes. De préférence, Γoligomère de quercétine est obtenu à partir d’un extrait de plantes choisi dans le groupe comprenant Capparis spinosa, Levisticum officinale, Sambucus nigra, Theobroma cacao, Styphnolobium japonicum ; de préférence l’oligomère de quercétine est obtenu à partir d’un extrait de Styphnolobium japonicum et de manière particulièrement préférée à partir d’un extrait de fleurs de Styphnolobium japonicum (par exemple un extrait hydroalcoolique (eau/propanediol) ).Quercetin is present in many plants. Preferably, the quercetin oligomer is obtained from a plant extract chosen from the group comprising Capparis spinosa, Levisticum officinale, Sambucus nigra, Theobroma cacao, Styphnolobium japonicum; preferably the quercetin oligomer is obtained from an extract of Styphnolobium japonicum and particularly preferably from an extract of flowers of Styphnolobium japonicum (for example an alcoholic extract (water / propanediol)).
Styphnolobium japonicum, dénommé le « Sophora du Japon » ou arbre à miel, est une espèce d'arbre de la famille des Fabaceae qui bénéficie d’un large port, arrondi et majestueux. Cet arbre peut mesurer jusqu'à 25 m de hauteur et présentent de grandes feuilles composées (30 cm environ) avec une floraison en panicules blanc crème parfumés en milieu ou fin d'été sous réserve que l'été soit bien chaud.Styphnolobium japonicum, called "Japanese Sophora" or honey tree, is a species of tree in the Fabaceae family which benefits from a broad, rounded and majestic habit. This tree can measure up to 25 m in height and have large compound leaves (about 30 cm) with flowering in creamy white panicles scented in mid or late summer provided that the summer is very hot.
Des oligomères de quercétine peuvent être produits simplement en utilisant une laccase qui est une polyphénol-oxydase présente chez les plantes, les mycètes et certains microorganismes. Une telle oligomérisation peut être réalisée par exemple à l’aide d’une laccase d’Ustilago maydis (DESENTIS-MENDOZA et al., Biomacromolecules, vol.7(6), p : 1845-54, 2006) de Trametes versicolor (BOZIC et al., Carbohydr Polym., vol.89(3), p:854-64, 2012), de Streptomyces coelicolor (SHERIF et al., Microb Biotechnol., vol.6(5), p:588-97. 2013) ou encore de Botrytis cinerea (brevet FR 3 0004 341B1). De préférence, cette oligomérisation est obtenue à partir d’une laccase de Botrytis cinerea, l’oligomère de quercétine obtenu est alors essentiellement un dimère de quercétine représenté par la formule ci-dessous :Quercetin oligomers can be produced simply by using a laccase which is a polyphenol oxidase found in plants, fungi and certain microorganisms. Such oligomerization can be carried out for example using a laccase of Ustilago maydis (DESENTIS-MENDOZA et al., Biomacromolecules, vol. 7 (6), p: 1845-54, 2006) from Trametes versicolor (BOZIC et al., Carbohydr Polym., vol. 89 (3), p: 854-64, 2012), from Streptomyces coelicolor (SHERIF et al., Microb Biotechnol., vol. 6 (5), p: 588-97. 2013) or Botrytis cinerea (patent FR 3,0004,341B1). Preferably, this oligomerization is obtained from a Botrytis cinerea laccase, the quercetin oligomer obtained is then essentially a quercetin dimer represented by the formula below:
De manière particulièrement préférée, le dimère de quercétine est obtenu par réaction d’une laccase de de Botrytis cinerea sur un extrait de fleurs de Styphnolobium japonicum.In a particularly preferred manner, the quercetin dimer is obtained by reaction of a laccase of Botrytis cinerea with an extract of flowers of Styphnolobium japonicum.
Le terme « extrait » comme utilisé dans le présent document fait référence à une substance extraite d’un produit naturel, indépendamment de sa méthode d’extraction ou de la composition des ingrédients. Par exemple, cela inclut ceux obtenus par extraction d'ingrédients solubles à partir d’un produit naturel en utilisant l’eau ou un solvant organique, ou ceux obtenus par l’extraction d’ingrédients spécifiques uniquement, tels que 10 l’huile, à partir d’un produit naturel.The term "extract" as used in this document refers to a substance extracted from a natural product, regardless of its method of extraction or the composition of the ingredients. For example, this includes those obtained by extracting soluble ingredients from a natural product using water or an organic solvent, or those obtained by extracting specific ingredients only, such as oil, from a natural product.
En l’espèce, on préférera un extrait hydroalcoolique (mélange eau/propanediol) de fleurs de Styphnolobium japonicum tel que décrit dans le brevet FR 3 004 341, qui est disponible notamment auprès des laboratoires SOLABIA™ sous la dénomination RESISTRESS™In this case, a hydroalcoholic extract (water / propanediol mixture) of Styphnolobium japonicum flowers as described in patent FR 3 004 341 is preferred, which is available in particular from SOLABIA ™ laboratories under the name RESISTRESS ™
Avantageusement, la teneur en dimères/oligomères de quercétine de la composition selon l’invention est comprise entre 6 x 10'6 et 6 x 10'3% (en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition), de préférence entre 10 '5% et 3,6 x 10’3%.Advantageously, the content of quercetin dimers / oligomers in the composition according to the invention is between 6 x 10 ' 6 and 6 x 10' 3 % (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), preferably between 10 ' 5 % and 3.6 x 10 ' 3 %.
TMTM
Typiquement, cela correspond à une concentration de solution de RESISTRESS comprise entre 0,1 et 2%, de préférence entre 0,2 et 1% et, de manière particulièrement préférée, entre 0,3 et 0,7% (en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition)Typically, this corresponds to a concentration of RESISTRESS solution of between 0.1 and 2%, preferably between 0.2 and 1% and, in a particularly preferred manner, between 0.3 and 0.7% (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition)
L’ectoïne ou acide l,4,5,6-Tetrahydro-2-Methyl-,4S)-4-Pyrimidinecarboxylique présente la formule suivante :The ectoin or acid 1,4,5,6-Tetrahydro-2-Methyl-, 4S) -4-Pyrimidinecarboxylic has the following formula:
L’ectoïne est un composé naturel que l’on trouve chez différentes espèces de bactéries, notamment chez les bactéries halophiles où il intervient dans la résistance au sel et aux stress en général. Initialement, l’ectoïne a ainsi été identifié chez Ectothiorhodospira halochloris.Ectoin is a natural compound found in different species of bacteria, especially in halophilic bacteria where it is involved in resistance to salt and stress in general. Initially, ectoin was thus identified in Ectothiorhodospira halochloris.
Avantageusement, la teneur en ectoïne de la composition selon l’invention est comprise entre 0,1 et 10% (en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition), de préférence entre 0,2 et 5% et, de manière particulièrement préférée entre 0,3 et 2%.Advantageously, the ectoin content of the composition according to the invention is between 0.1 and 10% (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), preferably between 0.2 and 5% and, in a particularly preferred manner between 0.3 and 2%.
Par filtre anti-UV, on entend aussi bien un filtre anti-UVA et/ou anti-UVB, lequel filtre est choisi parmi les filtres organiques et les filtres minéraux (ou inorganiques).By anti-UV filter is meant both an anti-UVA and / or anti-UVB filter, which filter is chosen from organic filters and mineral (or inorganic) filters.
Les filtres UV minéraux (ou inorganiques) également appelés écrans sont constitués de poudres microscopiques inertes. Ces petites particules reflètent les rayons UVA/UVB et protègent ainsi la peau du rayonnement solaire. Les filtres inorganiques utilisables dans la composition selon l'invention sont en particulier les nanopigments (taille moyenne des particules primaires généralement entre 5 nm et 100 nm, de préférence entre nm et 50 nm) d'oxydes métalliques enrobés ou non comme par exemple des nanopigments d'oxyde de titane (amorphe ou cristallisé sous forme rutile et/ou anatase), de fer, de zinc, de zirconium ou de cérium qui sont tous des agents photo-protecteurs UV bien connus en soi, de préférence les oxydes de titane ou de zinc. Des agents d'enrobage classiques pour ces nanopigments sont par ailleurs l'alumine et/ou le stéarate d'aluminium. De tels nanopigments d'oxydes métalliques, enrobés ou non enrobés, sont en particulier décrits dans les demandes de brevets EP-A-0518772 et EP-A-0518773.Mineral (or inorganic) UV filters also called screens consist of inert microscopic powders. These small particles reflect UVA / UVB rays and thus protect the skin from solar radiation. The inorganic filters which can be used in the composition according to the invention are in particular nanopigments (average size of the primary particles generally between 5 nm and 100 nm, preferably between nm and 50 nm) of metallic oxides coated or not, such as for example nanopigments titanium oxide (amorphous or crystallized in rutile form and / or anatase), iron, zinc, zirconium or cerium which are all UV photo-protective agents well known per se, preferably titanium oxides or zinc. Conventional coating agents for these nanopigments are moreover alumina and / or aluminum stearate. Such metallic oxide nanopigments, coated or uncoated, are in particular described in patent applications EP-A-0518772 and EP-A-0518773.
Les filtres UV organiques sont des substances qui absorbent les rayons UV et les transforment en radiation thermique. Les filtres solaires synthétiques assurent ainsi une protection photochimique en absorbant l'énergie des rayons ultraviolets.Organic UV filters are substances that absorb UV rays and transform them into thermal radiation. Synthetic sun filters thus provide photochemical protection by absorbing energy from ultraviolet rays.
Des exemples de filtres UVA organiques adaptés comprennent notamment :Examples of suitable organic UVA filters include:
o(l) les dérivés de triazine, et en particulier la 2,4-bis {[4-(2-éthyl-hexyloxy)-2hydroxy]-phényl}-6-(4-méthoxy-phényl)-l,3,5-triazine disponible auprès de la société CIBA GEIGY sous la dénomination commerciale TINOSORB S et le 2,2'méthylènebis-[6-(2H benzotriazol-2-yl)4-(l,L3,3-tétraméthylbutyl)phénol] disponible auprès de la société CIBA GEIGY sous la dénomination commerciale TINOSORB M ;o (l) triazine derivatives, and in particular 2,4-bis {[4- (2-ethyl-hexyloxy) -2hydroxy] -phenyl} -6- (4-methoxy-phenyl) -1,3, 5-triazine available from the company CIBA GEIGY under the trade name TINOSORB S and 2,2'méthylènebis- [6- (2H benzotriazol-2-yl) 4- (1,, L3,3-tetramethylbutyl) phenol] available from CIBA GEIGY under the trade name TINOSORB M;
o(2) l'acide téréphtalylidène dicamphre sulfonique ou acide benzène 1,4 [di(3méthylidènecampho 10-sulfonique)]o (2) terephthalylidene dicamphor sulfonic acid or benzene acid 1,4 [di (3methylidenecampho 10-sulfonic)]
A titre d’exemple de filtres UVB organiques, on peut notamment citer :By way of example of organic UVB filters, there may be mentioned in particular:
o(l) les dérivés de l'acide salicylique, en particulier le salicylate d'homomenthyle et le salicylate d'octyle ;o (l) salicylic acid derivatives, in particular homomenthyl salicylate and octyl salicylate;
o (2) les dérivés de l'acide cinnamique, en particulier le p-méthoxycinnamate de 2éthylhexyle;o (2) cinnamic acid derivatives, in particular 2ethylhexyl p-methoxycinnamate;
ο (3) les dérivés de β,β'-diphénylacrylate liquides, en particulier l'a-cyano-α,β' diphénylacrylate de 2-éthylhexyle, ou octocrylène ;ο (3) derivatives of liquid β, β'-diphenylacrylate, in particular a-cyano-α, β '2-ethylhexyl diphenylacrylate, or octocrylene;
o (4) les dérivés de l'acide p-aminobenzoïque ;o (4) derivatives of p-aminobenzoic acid;
o (5) le 4-méthyl benzylidène camphre;o (5) 4-methyl benzylidene camphor;
o(6) l'acide 2-phénylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonique ; et o(7) les dérivés de 1,3,5-triazine, en particulier la 2,4,6-tris[p-(2'-éthylhexyl- Γoxycarbonyl)anilino] -1,3,5-triazine.o (6) 2-phenylbenzimidazole 5-sulfonic acid; and o (7) 1,3,5-triazine derivatives, in particular 2,4,6-tris [p- (2'-ethylhexyl- Γoxycarbonyl) anilino] -1,3,5-triazine.
Avantageusement, la teneur en filtre anti-UV (UVA et/ou UVB) de la composition selon l’invention est comprise entre 0,5 et 30% (en poids par rapport au poids total de la composition), de préférence entre 1 et 10%.Advantageously, the content of anti-UV filter (UVA and / or UVB) of the composition according to the invention is between 0.5 and 30% (by weight relative to the total weight of the composition), preferably between 1 and 10%.
Selon un deuxième mode de réalisation préférée, la composition selon l’invention prend la forme d’une composition topique.According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention takes the form of a topical composition.
Dans le présent document, le terme « composition topique » fait référence à une composition qui est appliquée extérieurement sur n’importe quelle partie du corps sauf les membranes muqueuses telles que les yeux, la bouche, etc. Maintenant, la composition topique de l’invention peut être également incorporée dans des lingeries qui sont utilisées pour appliquer la composition topique sur n’importe quelle partie du corps sauf les membranes muqueuses telles que les yeux, la bouche, etc. A ce titre, la composition selon l’invention prend la forme d’une pommade, d’une crème, d’une lotion, d’un gel, voire d’un spray.In this document, the term "topical composition" refers to a composition that is applied externally to any part of the body except the mucous membranes such as the eyes, mouth, etc. Now, the topical composition of the invention can also be incorporated into lingerie which is used to apply the topical composition to any part of the body except the mucous membranes such as the eyes, mouth, etc. As such, the composition according to the invention takes the form of an ointment, a cream, a lotion, a gel, or even a spray.
De façon générale, la composition selon l’invention pourra comprendre de nombreux types d'adjuvants ou de principes actifs classiquement utilisés dans les formulations cosmétiques, qu'il s'agisse de corps gras, de solvants organiques, d'épais sis sants, de gélifiants, d'adoucissants, d'antioxydants, d'opacifiants, de stabilisants, de tensioactifs moussants et/ou détergents, d'émollients, de surgraissants, de parfums, d'émulsionnants ioniques ou non, de charges, de séquestrants, de chélateurs, de conservateurs, d'huiles essentielles, de matières colorantes, de pigments, d'actifs hydrophiles ou lipophiles, d'humectants, comme par exemple la glycérine ou les glycols, de conservateurs, de colorants, d'actifs cosmétiques, de filtres solaires minéraux et/ou organiques, de charges minérales, de charges synthétiques comme les nylons et les poly(méthacrylate de méthyle) réticulés ou non, d'élastomères siliconés, ou d'extraits de plantes ou encore de vésicules lipidiques, ou bien tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique.In general, the composition according to the invention may include many types of adjuvants or active principles conventionally used in cosmetic formulations, whether they are fatty substances, organic solvents, thick sis sants, gelling agents, softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, foaming and / or detergent surfactants, emollients, superfats, perfumes, ionic or non-ionic emulsifiers, fillers, sequestrants, chelators , preservatives, essential oils, coloring matters, pigments, hydrophilic or lipophilic active agents, humectants, such as for example glycerin or glycols, preservatives, dyes, cosmetic active agents, sun filters mineral and / or organic, mineral fillers, synthetic fillers such as nylons and poly (methyl methacrylate) crosslinked or not, silicone elastomers, or plant extracts or lipid vesicles ues, or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics.
Comme exemples d'huiles, on peut citer les paraffines, les isoparaffines, les huiles blanches minérales, les huiles végétales (provenant de fleurs, de fruits, de légumes, d'arbres, de céréales, d'oléagineux ...), les huiles de synthèse, les huiles siliconées et les huiles fluorées ; et plus particulièrement : les huiles d'origine végétale, telles que l'huile d'amandes douces, l'huile de coprah, l'huile de ricin, l'huile de jojoba, l'huile d'olive, l'huile de colza, l'huile d'arachide, l'huile de tournesol, l'huile de germes de blé, l'huile de germes de maïs, l'huile de soja, l'huile de coton, l'huile de luzerne, l'huile de pavot, l'huile de potiron, l'huile d'onagre, l'huile de millet, l'huile d'orge, l'huile de seigle, l'huile de carthame, l'huile de bancoulier, l'huile de passiflore, l'huile de noisette, l'huile de palme, le beurre de karité, l'huile de noyau d'abricot, l'huile de calophyllum, l'huile de sysymbrium, l'huile d'avocat, l'huile de calendula, les huiles issues de fleurs ou de légumes; les huiles végétales éthoxylées les huiles minérales, telles que l'huile de paraffine, l'huile de vaseline et les isoparaffines ; les huiles synthétiques, notamment les esters d'acides gras tels que le myristate de butyle, le myristate de propyle, le myristate de cétyle, le palmitate d'isopropyle, le stéarate de butyle, le stéarate d'hexadécyle, le stéarate d'isopropyle, le stéarate d'octyle, le stéarate d'isocétyle, l'oléate dodécyle, le laurate d'hexyle, le dicaprylate de propylène glycol ; les esters dérivés d'acide lanolique, tels que le lanolate d'isopropyle, le lanolate d'isocétyle, les monoglycérides, diglycérides et triglycérides d'acides gras comme le triheptanoate de glycérol, les alkylbenzoates, les polyalphaoléfines, les polyoléfines comme le polyisobutène, les isoalcanes de synthèse comme l'isohexadécane, l'isododécane, les huiles perfluorées et les huiles de silicone. Parmi ces dernières, on peut plus particulièrement citer les diméthylpolysiloxanes, méthylphénylpolysiloxanes, les silicones modifiées par des aminés, les silicones modifiées par des acides gras, les silicones modifiées par des alcools, les silicones modifiées par des alcools et des acides gras, des silicones modifiées par des groupements polyéther, des silicones époxy modifiées, des silicones modifiées par des groupements fluorés, des silicones cycliques et des silicones modifiées par des groupements alkyles.Examples of oils include paraffins, isoparaffins, white mineral oils, vegetable oils (from flowers, fruits, vegetables, trees, cereals, oilseeds ...), synthetic oils, silicone oils and fluorinated oils; and more particularly: oils of vegetable origin, such as sweet almond oil, coconut oil, castor oil, jojoba oil, olive oil, rapeseed, peanut oil, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, corn germ oil, soybean oil, cottonseed oil, alfalfa oil, l poppy oil, pumpkin oil, evening primrose oil, millet oil, barley oil, rye oil, safflower oil, bancoulier oil, l passionflower oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, shea butter, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, sysymbrium oil, avocado oil, calendula oil, oils from flowers or vegetables; ethoxylated vegetable oils mineral oils, such as paraffin oil, petrolatum oil and isoparaffins; synthetic oils, in particular fatty acid esters such as butyl myristate, propyl myristate, cetyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexadecyl stearate, isopropyl stearate , octyl stearate, isocetyl stearate, dodecyl oleate, hexyl laurate, propylene glycol dicaprylate; esters derived from lanolic acid, such as isopropyl lanolate, isocetyl lanolate, monoglycerides, diglycerides and triglycerides of fatty acids such as glycerol triheptanoate, alkylbenzoates, polyalphaolefins, polyolefins such as polyisobutene, synthetic isoalkanes such as isohexadecane, isododecane, perfluorinated oils and silicone oils. Among the latter, mention may be made more particularly of dimethylpolysiloxanes, methylphenylpolysiloxanes, silicones modified with amines, silicones modified with fatty acids, silicones modified with alcohols, silicones modified with alcohols and fatty acids, modified silicones by polyether groups, modified epoxy silicones, silicones modified by fluorinated groups, cyclic silicones and silicones modified by alkyl groups.
Comme autre matière grasse, on peut citer les alcools gras, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, les mélanges d'alcools gras, linéaires et/ou ramifiés, saturés et/ou insaturés, ou les acides gras, linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés, des mélanges d'acides gras linéaires ou ramifiés, saturés ou insaturés.As other fatty materials, there may be mentioned fatty alcohols, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, mixtures of fatty alcohols, linear and / or branched, saturated and / or unsaturated, or fatty acids, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, mixtures of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated fatty acids.
Parmi les polymères épaississants et/ou émulsionnant utilisables, il y a par exemple, les homopolymères ou copolymères de l'acide acrylique ou de dérivés de l'acide acrylique, les homopolymères ou copolymères de l'acide méthacrylique ou dérivés de l'acide méthacrylique, les homopolymères ou copolymères de l'acrylamide, les homopolymères ou copolymères de dérivés de l'acrylamide, les homopolymères ou copolymères de l'acide acrylamidométhyl propanesulfonique, les homopolymères ou copolymères de monomères vinyliques, les homopolymères ou copolymères de chlorure de triméthylaminoéthylacrylate, les hydrocolloïdes d'origine végétale ou bio synthétique comme par exemple la gomme de xanthane, la gomme de karaya, les carraghénates, les alginates ; les silicates ; la cellulose et ses dérivés ; l'amidon et ses dérivés hydrophiles ; les polyuréthanes.Among the thickening and / or emulsifying polymers which can be used, there are for example, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylic acid or of acrylic acid derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of methacrylic acid or derivatives of methacrylic acid , homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamide derivatives, homopolymers or copolymers of acrylamidomethyl propanesulfonic acid, homopolymers or copolymers of vinyl monomers, homopolymers or copolymers of trimethylaminoethylacrylate chloride, hydrocolloids of plant or bio synthetic origin such as for example xanthan gum, karaya gum, carrageenans, alginates; silicates; cellulose and its derivatives; starch and its hydrophilic derivatives; polyurethanes.
Parmi les polymères de type polyélectrolytes pouvant être mis en jeu dans la production d'une phase aqueuse gélifiée apte à être utilisée dans la préparation d'émulsions E/H, H/E, E/H/E ou H/E/H, ou d'un gel aqueux comprenant le SEPIBIO™ POTENTILLA 217, il y a par exemple, les copolymères de l'acide acrylique et de l'acide-2-méthyl-[(l-oxo2-propényl)amino] 1-propane sulfonique (AMPS), les copolymères de l'acrylamide et de racide-2-méthyl-[(l-oxo-2-propényl)amino] 1-propane sulfonique, les copolymères de racide-2-méthyl-[(l-oxo-2-propényl)amino] 1-propane sulfonique et de l'acrylate de (2hydroxyéthyle), l'homopolymère de l'acide-2-méthyl-[(l-oxo-2-propényl)amino] 1-propane sulfonique, l'homopolymère de l'acide acrylique, les copolymères du chlorure d'acryloyl éthyl triméthyl ammonium et de l'acrylamide, les copolymères de l'AMPS et de la vinylpyrolidone, les copolymères de l'AMPS et du N5N Diméthyl acrylamide, les terpolymères de l'AMPS, de l'acide acrylique et du N5N Diméthyl acrylamide, les copolymères de l'acide acrylique et d'acrylates d'alkyle dont la chaîne carbonée comprend entre dix et trente atomes de carbone, les copolymères de l'AMPS et d'acrylates d'alkyle dont la chaîne carbonée comprend entre dix et trente atomes de carbone.Among the polymers of polyelectrolyte type which can be used in the production of a gelled aqueous phase capable of being used in the preparation of W / O, O / W, W / O / W or O / W / O emulsions, or an aqueous gel comprising SEPIBIO ™ POTENTILLA 217, there are, for example, copolymers of acrylic acid and 2-methyl acid - [(l-oxo2-propenyl) amino] 1-propane sulfonic acid (AMPS), copolymers of acrylamide and racide-2-methyl - [(l-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-sulfonic propane, copolymers of racide-2-methyl - [(l-oxo- 2-propenyl) amino] sulfonic 1-propane and (2hydroxyethyl) acrylate, the homopolymer of 2-methyl acid - [(l-oxo-2-propenyl) amino] 1-sulfonic propane, l homopolymer of acrylic acid, copolymers of acryloyl ethyl trimethyl ammonium chloride and acrylamide, copolymers of AMPS and vinylpyrolidone, copolymers of AMPS and N5N Dimethyl acrylamide, terpolymers of AMPS, acryl acid ique and N5N Dimethyl acrylamide, copolymers of acrylic acid and alkyl acrylates whose carbon chain comprises between ten and thirty carbon atoms, copolymers of AMPS and alkyl acrylates whose chain carbon contains between ten and thirty carbon atoms.
Parmi les cires utilisables dans les compositions selon l’invention, on peut citer par exemple la cire d'abeille, la cire de camauba, la cire de candelilla, la cire d'ouricoury, la cire du Japon, la cire de fibre de liège ou de canne à sucre, les cires de paraffines, les cires de lignite, les cires microcristallines, la cire de lanoline, l'ozokérite, la cire de polyéthylène, les huiles hydrogénées, les cires de silicone, les cires végétales, les alcools gras et les acides gras solides à température ambiante, les glycérides solides à température ambiante.Among the waxes which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned for example beeswax, camauba wax, candelilla wax, ouricoury wax, Japanese wax, cork fiber wax or sugar cane, paraffin waxes, lignite waxes, microcrystalline waxes, lanolin wax, ozokerite, polyethylene wax, hydrogenated oils, silicone waxes, vegetable waxes, fatty alcohols and fatty acids solid at room temperature, glycerides solid at room temperature.
Parmi les émulsionnants utilisables dans les compositions selon l’invention, on peut citer :Among the emulsifiers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned:
- les esters gras d'alkylpolyglycosides éventuellement alcoxylés;- fatty esters of optionally alkoxylated alkylpolyglycosides;
- les esters gras alcoxylés ;- alkoxylated fatty esters;
- les carbamates de polyalkylène glycols à chaînes grasses ;- fatty chain polyalkylene glycol carbamates;
- les acides gras, les acides gras éthoxylés, les esters d'acide gras et de sorbitol, les esters d'acides gras éthoxylés, les polysorbates, les esters de polyglycérol, les alcools gras éthoxylés, les esters de sucrose, les alkylpolyglycosides, les alcools gras sulfatés et phosphatés ou les mélanges d'alkylpolyglycosides et d'alcools gras;- fatty acids, ethoxylated fatty acids, fatty acid and sorbitol esters, ethoxylated fatty acid esters, polysorbates, polyglycerol esters, ethoxylated fatty alcohols, sucrose esters, alkylpolyglycosides, sulfated and phosphated fatty alcohols or mixtures of alkylpolyglycosides and fatty alcohols;
- les associations de tensioactifs émulsionnants choisis parmi les alkylpolyglycosides;- associations of emulsifying surfactants chosen from alkylpolyglycosides;
- les associations d'alkylpolyglycosides et d'alcools gras, les esters de polyglycérols ou de polyglycols ou de polyols.- combinations of alkylpolyglycosides and fatty alcohols, esters of polyglycerols or polyglycols or polyols.
Parmi les tensioactifs utilisables dans les compositions selon l’invention, on peut citer: les tensioactifs anioniques, cationiques, amphotères ou non ioniques topiquement acceptables habituellement utilisés dans ce domaine d'activité.Among the surfactants which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned: topically acceptable anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic surfactants usually used in this field of activity.
Parmi les tensioactifs anioniques utilisables dans les compositions selon l’invention, on citera particulièrement les sels de métaux alcalins, les sels de métaux alcalino-terreux, les sels d'ammonium, les sels d'aminés, les sels d'aminoalcools des composés suivants : les alkyléthers sulfates, les alkylsulfates, les alkylamidoéthersulfates, les alkylarylpolyéthersulfates, les monoglycérides sulfates, les alpha-oléfînesulfonates, les paraffines sulfonates, les alkylphosphates, les alkylétherphosphates, les alkylsulfonates, les alkylamidesulfonates, les alkylarylsulfonates, les alkylcarboxylates, les alkylsulfosuccinates, les alkyléthersulfosuccinates, les alkylamidesulfosuccinates, les alkylsulfoacétates, les alkylsarcosinates, les acyliséthionates, les N-acyltaurates, les acyllactylates.Among the anionic surfactants which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular the alkali metal salts, the alkaline earth metal salts, the ammonium salts, the amine salts, the amino alcohol salts of the following compounds : alkyl ether sulfates, alkylsulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates, alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffins sulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkyletherphosphates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylalkylsulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, alkyl aryl sulfons, , alkylamidesulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, alkylsarcosinates, acylisethionates, N-acyltaurates, acyllactylates.
Parmi les tensioactifs amphotères utilisables dans les compositions selon l’invention, on pourra citer les alkylbétaines, les alkylamidobétaines, les sultaines, les alkylamidoalkylsulfobétaines, les dérivés d'imidazolines, les phosphobétaïnes, les amphopolyacétates et les amphopropionates.Among the amphoteric surfactants which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, mention may be made of alkylbetaines, alkylamidobetaines, sultaines, alkylamidoalkylsulfobétaines, imidazoline derivatives, phosphobetaines, amphopolyacetates and amphopropionates.
Afin de potentialiser encore l’activité obtenue par la composition selon l’invention, celle-ci pourra être associée avec d’autres actifs notamment ceux connus pour leur action antioxydante, antiradicalaire, anti-âge, raffermissante, restructurante, stimulante, énergisante, oxygénante, anti-ride, décontractante, hydratante, antimicrobienne, séborrégulatrice, purifiante, apaisante, relaxante, décontractante, anti-stress, éclaircissante, immunomodulatrice, stimulatrice du renouvellement cellulaire, liftante, repulpante, amélioratrice de l’éclat du teint, etc....In order to further potentiate the activity obtained by the composition according to the invention, it may be associated with other active agents, in particular those known for their antioxidant, anti-radical, anti-aging, firming, restructuring, stimulating, energizing, oxygenating action. , anti-wrinkle, relaxing, hydrating, antimicrobial, sebum-regulating, purifying, soothing, relaxing, relaxing, anti-stress, lightening, immunomodulating, stimulating cell renewal, lifting, plumping, improving the radiance of the complexion, etc ... .
La composition selon l’invention pourra en outre être également associée à des composés présentant une propriété sensorielle, comme par exemple un effet rafraîchissant (exemple des extraits de menthe).The composition according to the invention may also be combined with compounds having a sensory property, such as for example a refreshing effect (example of mint extracts).
Un deuxième objet de l’invention porte sur une utilisation, pour la protection de la peau et/ou des phanères contre les rayonnements UV et IR, de préférence UV, d’une association d’au moins un oligomère de quercétine, d’ectoïne ; et d’au moins un filtre antiUV.A second subject of the invention relates to a use, for the protection of the skin and / or appendages against UV and IR radiation, preferably UV, of a combination of at least one oligomer of quercetin, of ectoin ; and at least one UV filter.
Un dernier objet de l’invention concerne un procédé, non-thérapeutique, de protection de la peau et/ou des phanères contre les rayonnements UV et IR, de préférence UV, caractérisé en ce qu’il comprend une étape d’application sur la peau (lèvres comprises) et/ou les phanères d’un sujet une quantité efficace de la composition selon l’invention telle que décrite précédemment.A final object of the invention relates to a non-therapeutic method for protecting the skin and / or integuments against UV and IR radiation, preferably UV, characterized in that it comprises a step of application to the skin (lips included) and / or the integuments of a subject an effective amount of the composition according to the invention as described above.
Le terme sujet vise un humain, lequel peut être un homme ou une femme.The term subject refers to a human, who can be a man or a woman.
Les expériences suivantes sont fournies pour illustrer les réalisations de l’invention et ne doivent pas être considérées comme limitant la portée de l’invention.The following experiments are provided to illustrate the embodiments of the invention and should not be considered as limiting the scope of the invention.
EXEMPLESEXAMPLES
1) Détail des compositions testées1) Details of the compositions tested
Les trois compositions testées prennent la forme de crèmes pour le visage pour la protection solaire.The three compositions tested take the form of face creams for sun protection.
2) Evaluation de la protection aux UV obtenue en présence de filtre anti-UV avec ou sans addition de dimères de quercétine et d’ectoïne2) Evaluation of the UV protection obtained in the presence of an UV filter with or without the addition of quercetin and ectoin dimers
MéthodologieMethodology
Une évaluation est menée sur un groupe de 15 sujets volontaires des deux sexes, âgés de 18 à 45 ans, et présentant un phototype I à Ilia sur l’échelle de FITZPATRICK qui ont, préalablement au test, évité toute exposition aux rayonnements ultraviolets (UV) au niveau du dos pendant au moins trois mois avant le début de l’évaluation et pendant toute la durée de l’évaluation. Chaque sujet a été examiné en début et fin d'étude par un dermatologue.An evaluation is carried out on a group of 15 volunteer subjects of both sexes, aged 18 to 45, and having a phototype I at Ilia on the FITZPATRICK scale who, prior to the test, avoided any exposure to ultraviolet (UV) radiation. ) at the back for at least three months before the start of the assessment and for the duration of the assessment. Each subject was examined at the start and end of the study by a dermatologist.
Une dose de 2mg/cm de chacune des compositions a été appliquée à deux reprises à 24 heures d’intervalle sur une surface de 10 cm de la peau du dos de chacun des quinze sujets.A dose of 2 mg / cm of each of the compositions was applied twice, 24 hours apart, to an area of 10 cm from the skin of the back of each of the fifteen subjects.
Les expositions sont ensuite réalisées à l’aide d’un simulateur solaire ORIEL de 1600 watts et bénéficiant de filtres de sorte de simuler le spectre solaire UVA + UVB (la dose administrée est de 2 DEM (double de la dose maximale).The exposures are then carried out using a 1600 watt ORIEL solar simulator and benefiting from filters so as to simulate the UVA + UVB solar spectrum (the administered dose is 2 DEM (double the maximum dose).
Après exposition, des mesures colorimétriques des différentes zones sont réalisées à l’aide d’un Chromamètre CR400 (KONICA-MINOLTA). De même, une évaluation de l’érythème induit par les UV pour chaque zone est effectuée selon le barème qui suit :After exposure, colorimetric measurements of the different zones are carried out using a CR400 chromometer (KONICA-MINOLTA). Similarly, an evaluation of the UV-induced erythema for each zone is carried out according to the following scale:
Enfin, la quantité de lésions 8-oxo-G (cellules endommagées/mm ) est déterminée sur des biopsies de peaux des différentes zones.Finally, the quantity of 8-oxo-G lesions (damaged cells / mm) is determined on biopsies of skins from the different areas.
Les résultats montrent que l’association selon l’invention présentent, au regard des compositions contrôle, une synergie pour ce qui est de la protection des cellules de la peau 5 contre le rayonnement UV.The results show that the combination according to the invention has, with regard to the control compositions, a synergy with regard to the protection of skin cells 5 against UV radiation.
Claims (10)
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