FR3060315A1 - CAPILLARY CLARIFICATION COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, PEROXYGEN SALT, ORGANIC AMINE, AND AT LEAST ONE POLYPHOSPHORIC DERIVATIVE - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, comprising (a) hydrogen peroxide; (b) one or more particular organic amine (s), (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition, (d) one or more peroxygenated salts, said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s), and preferably the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 11, preferably lower or The invention also relates to a lightening process using said composition and to a multi-compartment device, suitable for the implementation of said lightening composition.

Description

® FRENCH REPUBLIC

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF INDUSTRIAL PROPERTY © Publication number:

(to be used only for reproduction orders)

©) National registration number

060 315

62856

COURBEVOIE © Int Cl ⁸ : A 61 K8 / 22 (2017.01), A 61 K8 / 41, 8/43, 8/55, 8/19, 8/84, A 61 Q 5/08

A1 PATENT APPLICATION

©) Date of filing: 20.12.16. (© Priority: (© Applicant (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme— FR. ©) Date of public availability of the request: 06.22.18 Bulletin 18/25. @ Inventor (s): LAGRANGE ALAIN and LALLEMAN BORIS. ©) List of documents cited in the preliminary search report: See the end of this booklet (© References to other related national documents: ©) Holder (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme. ©) Extension request (s): (© Agent (s): L'OREAL Société anonyme.

FR 3 060 315 - A1 (04) HAIR LIGHTENING COMPOSITION COMPRISING HYDROGEN PEROXIDE, PEROXYGEN SALT, ORGANIC AMINE, AND AT LEAST ONE POLYPHOSPHORUS DERIVATIVE.

The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising (a) hydrogen peroxide; (b) one or more particular organic amine (s), (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (d) one or more peroxygenated salts, the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being separate from the said peroxygenated salt (s), and preferably the pH of the composition being less than or equal to 11, preferably lower or equal to 10.

The invention also relates to a lightening method using said composition and to a device with several compartments, suitable for using said lightening composition.

Hair brightening composition comprising hydrogen peroxide, peroxygenated salt, organic amine, and at least one polyphosphorus derivative

The present invention relates to a composition for lightening keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising (a) hydrogen peroxide;

(b) one or more particular organic amines, (c) one or more particular polyphosphorus derivatives, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (d) one or more peroxygenated salts, said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s).

The invention also relates to a lightening process using said composition as well as to a device with several compartments, suitable for the implementation of said lightening composition.

The present invention relates to the field of lightening keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers and more particularly to that of hair thinning.

The lightening of the hair is evaluated by the pitch which characterizes the degree or the level of lightening. The concept of "tone" is based on the classification of natural shades, a tone separating each shade from the one that immediately follows or precedes it. This definition and classification of natural shades is well known to hair professionals and published in the book "Sciences of hair treatments" by Charles ZVIAK 1988, Ed. Masson, pp. 215 and 278.

The pitch of the tone ranges from 1 (black) to 10 (light light blonde), a unit corresponding to a tone; the higher the number, the lighter the shade.

Lightening not only brings a lighter tone than the natural, initial tone of the hair, which is particularly sought after by consumers.

The methods of lightening human keratin fibers usually used consist of using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for a relatively weak lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater clarification is sought, peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, are usually used in the presence of hydrogen peroxide.

One of the difficulties comes from the fact that the lightening process is generally carried out under very alkaline conditions and that the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. The use of ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow activation of the oxidizing agent. But this alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and therefore increases the efficiency of the reaction.

However, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user due to the characteristic strong, rather unpleasant odor of ammonia which is released during the process.

In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user, who not only remains uncomfortable with the smell but who may also be confronted with greater risks of intolerance, such as for example irritation of the scalp, notably manifested by tingling.

In addition, the use of ammonia and persulfates is not without consequence on the integrity of the hair fiber and can lead to a deterioration in the quality of the hair. The main causes of this deterioration in the quality of the hair are a decrease in their cosmetic properties, such as their shine, and a degradation of their mechanical properties, more particularly a degradation of their mechanical resistance which can also result in an increase in their porosity. The hair is weakened and can become brittle during subsequent treatments such as brushing.

It has also been proposed to replace all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional basifying agents, such as alkanolamines, however the solutions proposed so far do not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these basifying agents do not lead to sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent. In addition monoethanolamine, when used in high concentrations can cause irritation of the scalp.

Thus, the hair lightening technology which must make it possible to obtain sufficient lightening of the fiber generally involves using either ammonia or monoethanolamine, or a mixture of monoethanolamine and ammonia, as an alkalizing agent. mixed with hydrogen peroxide.

Thus one of the objectives of the present invention is to provide compositions for lightening keratin materials, preferably human keratin fibers such as the hair which do not have the drawbacks mentioned above, that is to say which are capable of leading to very good lightening performance while having qualities of use superior to those of existing compositions, in particular by presenting a less unpleasant odor when they are applied to the fibers or during their preparation, and indeed tolerated by the scalp and respecting the nature of the hair.

In particular, the invention according to the invention makes it possible to obtain good lightening levels (power of the lightening obtained) with compositions comprising low contents of peroxygenated salts and / or whose pH may be less alkaline (ie more close to 7) than the compositions of the prior art.

These and other objects are achieved by the present invention, which therefore relates to a cosmetic composition, for the clarification of keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising:

(a) hydrogen peroxide, (b) one or more organic amine (s) chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and their derivatives, amines comprising at minus a guanidine group and the compounds of formula (I) below:

Rx Rz \ / _X NW-N ^R y ^x Rt

d) in which W is a C 1 -C 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical, and their salts, (c) one or more derivatives polyphosphorus compounds preferably chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms linked to each other covalently by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom, said at least one polyphosphorus derivative (s) being present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s);

- said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s).

Within the meaning of the present invention, by "composition for lightening or by lightening composition" means a ready-to-use composition which is applied to keratin materials, preferably to keranitic fibers. The lightening composition can be prepared just before application to said fibers.

The present invention also relates to a process for lightening keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair.

The invention also relates to a device with several compartments allowing the use of the composition according to the invention.

The compositions according to the invention thus make it possible to lead to very good performance in lightening keratin fibers, in particular in terms of level and uniformity of lightening.

Furthermore, the lightening method according to the invention also makes it possible to use compositions which do not have the drawbacks linked to the odor when they are applied to keratin fibers or during their preparation.

Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will appear more clearly on reading the description and the examples which follow.

In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the limits of a range of values are included in this range.

The human keratin fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair.

The expression "at least one" is equivalent to the expression "one or more".

(a) a chemical oxidizing wear

The lightening composition according to the invention contains hydrogen peroxide, as a chemical oxidizing agent.

By "chemical oxidizing agent" is meant an oxidizing agent other than air oxygen.

The composition preferably has a total content of hydrogen peroxide 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, or even more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lightening composition.

b) Organic amine

The organic amines (b) are chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and their derivatives, amines comprising at least one guanidine group and the polyamines of formula (I) below:

Rx Rz \ / nw-n „/ \ ^R y Rt (i) wherein W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl radical, a C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical, and their salts.

Examples of such amines of formula (I) that may be mentioned include 1,3 diaminopropane, 1,3 diamino 2 propanol, spermine, spermidine.

By alkanolamine is meant an organic amine comprising a primary, secondary or tertiary amine function, and one or more alkyl groups, linear or branched, in Ci-Cg carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

Particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, which may or may not be C1-C4.

Among compounds of this type, mention may be made of monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2 amino-2-methyl-l-propanol, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3. -propanediol, 3-amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylamino-methane.

According to one embodiment, a trialcanolamine is used, in particular trishydroxymethylamino-methane.

According to another embodiment, a monoalkanolamine is used, in particular monoethanolamine.

More particularly, the amino acids which can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D or racemic form and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form.

As amino acids which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine , glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, an amino acid or an amino acid derivative having a pKa (pKa of the amine function) less than or equal to 9.5 is used.

Mention may in particular be made of asparagine, threonine, methionine, tyrosine and their mixtures.

As an amino acid derivative, mention may be made of sulfur-containing amino acid derivatives such as taurine.

As amino acid derivatives, mention may also be made of amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides which can be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of glycylglycine (glygly),

As amino acid derivatives, mention may also be made of amino acid tripeptides. Mention may in particular be made, as amino acid tripeptides of the present invention, of glycylglycylglycine.

The organic amine can also be chosen from compounds comprising at least, preferably a guanidine group. As amines of this type which can be used in the present invention, there may be mentioned in addition to the arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2 ([amino (imino) methyl] amino) acid and 1-sulfonic acid

Preferably the organic amine present in the composition of the invention is chosen from alkanolamines, amino acids, their salts and their mixtures, preferably from amino acids.

It is also possible to use the salts of amines mentioned above with organic or mineral acids, in particular the salts of amines mentioned above with acids such as carbonic acid, hydrochloric acid.

One can in particular use guanidine carbonate or monoethanolamine hydrochloride.

Advantageously, an organic amine is used having a pKa of less than or equal to 9.5. The pKa can range in particular from 6 to 9.5.

The organic amine (s) described above may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lightening composition and again more preferably from 0.1% to 15% and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

c) polyphosphorus derivatives)

The lightening composition according to the invention comprises c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

By “polyphosphorus derivative” is preferably meant linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms linked to each other covalently by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom According to one embodiment, when the linker comprises at least one carbon atom, it can comprise at least one nitrogen atom.

Preferably, the polyphosphorus derivative (s) used according to the present invention comprises (comprise) less than 20 phosphorus atoms, preferably less than 15 phosphorus atoms, preferably less than 10 phosphorus atoms.

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative comprises at least two groups chosen from a group -P (R) (= O) -OH, a group -P (R) (= 0) -0 M, a group> P (= O) OH and / or a group> P (= 0) -0 M with:

• M representing a cationic counter ion, preferably chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, • R representing a hydroxy group, -OM ′ a (Ci-Ce) alkyl group, (CiCejalkoxy, cycloalkyloxy, (hetero) aryloxy and •> representing the two bonds linked to the phosphorus atom and forming part of a cycle.

According to the present invention, said polyphosphorus derivative (s) are present in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the polyphosphorus derivative (s) is (are) chosen from the inorganic polyphosphorus derivative (s).

According to another embodiment, the polyphosphorus derivative (s) is (are) chosen from the organic polyphosphorus derivative (s).

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative (s) present in the compositions according to the invention is / are non-amino (s).

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative (s) (c) as defined above are chosen from polyphosphates and polysphosphonates, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the polyphosphorus derivative (s) are polyphosphates.

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative (s) c) as defined above are chosen from:

- inorganic polyphosphorus derivatives chosen from:

o pyrophosphates, preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate;

o hexametaphosphates, preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium hexametaphosphate;

o tripolyphosphates; preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium tripolyphosphate;

o trimetaphosphates, preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium trimetaphosphate;

o and their mixtures;

- and organic polyphosphorus derivatives, preferably chosen from:

o organic polyphosphate derivatives, such as polyphosphoric acids and / or their salts such as phytic acid (also called myo-inositol hexaphosphoric acid, o organic polyphosphonate derivatives, such as polyphosphonic acids and / or their salts such as l 'EDTMP, DETMP, ATMP, HEDP, DTPMP, and mixtures thereof;

- and their mixtures.

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative (s) are chosen from:

- Inorganic polyphosphate derivatives chosen from pyrophosphates of alkali metal hydrated or not, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; and their mixtures;

- and the organic polyphosphorus derivatives chosen from organic polyphosphate derivatives such as polyphosphoric acids and / or their salts such as phytic acid (also called myo-inositol hexaphosphoric acid),, organic polyphosphonate derivatives such as polyphosphonic acids and / or their salts such as EDTMP, DETMP, ATMP, HEDP, DTPMP, and mixtures thereof;

- and their mixtures.

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative (s) is / are chosen from inorganic polyphosphate derivatives, preferably from alkali metal pyrophosphates, hydrated or not, preferably from sodium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate potassium, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate,

Preferably, the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) is / are chosen from the compounds belonging to any one of the following formulas (I), (II) and (III); or their mixtures

M 00

II

-p — 0 O-- M '(I)

O

II

Y-P-O-M O-- M '(III) as well as their solvates, such as hydrates; with

- n ranging from 2 to 10 preferably from 2 to 6 better from 2 to 3;

- m ranging from 2 to 10 preferably from 2 to 6;

Y representing an alkyl chain comprising at least one phosphorus atom and optionally one or more hetero atoms different from phosphorus, or a carbon-containing cyclic radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms, said hydrocarbon radical being substituted by one or more groups comprising one or more atoms phosphorus;

M or M ’representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal;

representing a single bond when M or M ’is H or an ionic bond.

It is understood that when M or M ’is different from H, then M or M’ are such that the overall charge of the molecule is zero. Thus, in the case of divalent metals M and M ’can represent one and the same divalent metal.

The polyphosphorus derivatives of formula (I) are linear.

The polyphosphorus derivatives of formula (II) are cyclic.

Preferably, according to a first embodiment, the polyphosphorus derivative (s) are inorganic polyphosphate compounds, preferably chosen from:

• polyphosphates, and / or their hydrates; and mixtures thereof, preferably sodium and / or potassium, such as sodium hexameta phosphate (SHMP),

Na ⁺ Ό 0'Na ⁺

O = P P = O ° p '°

o.

^{Na +} 'θό.

p ^ p ^ O> 0 ^X O 'Na ⁴

Na ⁺ Ό 0 0 '0' Na ⁺ sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimeta phosphate, preferably sodium tripolyphosphate of the following formula:

Wa

W © • pyrophosphates and / or their hydrates, and mixtures thereof, preferably sodium and / or potassium; preferably chosen from sodium pyrophosphate and / or potassium pyrophosphate, and their hydrates, such as sodium pyrophosphate, decahydrate of the following formula, h ₂ o or potassium pyrophosphate of the following formula:

C O x

According to a second embodiment, the polyphosphorus derivative (s) are organic polyphosphate derivatives and / or organic polyphosphonate derivatives, preferably chosen from polyphosphoric acids and / or their salts, polyphosphonic acids and / or their salts such as EDTMP, DETMP, ATMP, HEDP, DTPMP

PO (OHfe

PO (OHfc

PO (OH) 2

PO (OHÏ2

PO (OH) 2 DETMP and mixtures thereof;

- Iminodi (methylphosphonic) acid or its salts and their mixtures;

/OH

OH

- Tetrasodium etidronate formula

- the phytic acid of formula

HO

- and their mixtures.

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivatives are chosen from inorganic polyphosphates preferably chosen from: alkali metal pyrophosphates, optionally hydrated, preferably chosen from sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polymetaphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; polyphosphated sodium such as sodium tripolyphosphate, and mixtures thereof. Sodium and / or potassium are preferably used as the alkali metal.

According to another embodiment, the organic polyphosphorus derivatives are chosen from polyphosphoric acids and / or their salts, such as phytic acid, polyphosphonic acids and / or their salts such as EDTMP, DETMP, ATMP, HEDP, DTPMP, and mixtures thereof.

Preferably the polyphosphorus derivative (s) c) as defined above represent a total content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight of the weight of the composition containing them. More particularly from 0.55 to 15% by weight, better from 0.7 to 12% by weight, better still from 1 to 10% and better still from 2% to 10% by weight of the composition.

According to the invention, the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) are distinct from the said peroxygenated salt (s).

d) Peroxygenated salts

The composition according to the invention comprises d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s) distinct from the polyphosphorus derivative as defined above.

Preferably, parsley is not a polyphosphorus compound. (redundant ??)

Advantageously, the peroxygenated salt (s) is (are) chosen from persulfates, perborates of alkali metals, such as potassium, sodium; magnesium peroxide; alone or as a mixture.

According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the peroxygenated salt is not an ammonium salt.

Preferably, the composition comprises at least one persulfate as the peroxygenated salt, and even more preferably, at least one sodium and / or potassium persulfate.

Preferably, the content of peroxygenated salt varies from 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Additional oxidizing agent:

The lightening composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional oxidizing agents different from the peroxygenated salts and different from the hydrogen peroxide mentioned above.

More particularly, the additional oxidizing agent (s) may be chosen from alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more additional basifying agent (s) different from the organic amine (s) b) as defined above, and different from the polyphosphorus derivative (s) c) as defined above.

Additional basifying agent

The additional basifying agent can be mineral or organic. It can be chosen from alkali carbonates or bicarbonates such as sodium or potassium carbonates or bicarbonates, sodium or potassium hydroxides or their mixtures, mineral or organic hydroxides, alkali metal silicates such as sodium metasilicates and their mixtures.

Inorganic or organic hydroxides, particularly inorganic or organic hydroxides are preferably chosen from i) hydroxides of an alkali metal, ii) hydroxides of an alkaline earth metal, such as sodium or potassium hydroxides, iii) hydroxides of a transition metal, such as hydroxides of metals from groups III, IV, V and VI, iv) hydroxides of lanthanides or actinides ,.

According to a preferred embodiment, when the composition comprises one or more additional alkaline agent (s), different from the organic amine (s) as defined above, and different from the polyphosphorus derivative (s) c) , it (s) is / are chosen (s) from (bi) carbonates. and / or one or more (bi) carbonate generating systems.

By “(bi) carbonate” is meant a carbonate or a bicarbonate.

The (bi) carbonate (s) or the (bi) carbonate generating system (s) can be used in one or more cosmetic compositions during the coloring process.

By “(bi) carbonate generating system” is meant a system which generates (bi) carbonate in situ, for example carbon dioxide in water or by buffering carbonate with a mineral or organic acid.

When they are present, the (bi) carbonate agent (s) used preferably represent a total content of 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention and even more preferably 0 , 1% to 15% by weight.

Preferably, when they are present, the (bi) carbonate agent (s) represent a total content of 0.5% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition according to the invention.

The (bi) carbonate (s) is / are preferably chosen from:

- the carbonate (s), preferably chosen from:

a) alkali metal carbonates (Met ₂ ⁺ , CO3 ² ), alkaline earth metal (Met ' ²⁺ , CO3 ² ), or phosphonium (R ”4P ⁺ ) 2, CO3 ² with Met' representing a metal alkaline earth and Met representing an alkali metal, and R ”, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group (Ci-Ojalkyle optionally substituted such as hydroxyethyl; and mixtures thereof;

- the bicarbonate (s), preferably chosen:

b) the compounds of the following formulas:

> R ' ⁺ , HCO3 with R' representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal, or a phosphonium group R ”4P ⁺ - where R”, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a group (Ci-C6alkyl optionally substituted such as hydroxyethyl and when R 'represents a hydrogen atom the hydrogen carbonate is then called dihydrogen carbonate (CO2, H ₂ O); and>Met' ²⁺ (HCO3 ^_ ) ₂ with Met 'representing an alkali metal- earthy;

- and their mixtures.

More particularly, the (bi) carbonate (s) is / are chosen from (bi) carbonates of alkali metals, of alkaline earth metals; preferably the (bi) carbonates of alkali metals, or their mixtures.

Preferably, they are chosen from (bi) carbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and their mixtures. Preferably the (bi) carbonate (s) is / are chosen from (bi) carbonate of Na, (bi) carbonate of K, and their mixtures.

More particularly, the (bi) carbonate (s) is or are chosen from bicarbonates of alkali metals, of alkaline earth metals; preferably bicarbonates of alkali metals.

According to a preferred embodiment, the bicarbonate (s) is (are) not ammonium bicarbonate.

Preferably, they are chosen from bicarbonates of Na, K, Mg, Ca and their mixtures, and in particular from bicarbonate of Na, of K, and their mixtures, preferably bicarbonate of Na.

These bicarbonates can come from natural water, for example spring water from the Vichy basin, from La Roche Posay, water from Badoit (cf. patent for example the document FR 2 814 943). Particular mention may be made of sodium bicarbonate or sodium bicarbonate [144-55-8] = NaHCCh, and calcium bicarbonate = Ca (HCO3) 2.

When (s) is (are) present, the additional basifying agent (s) as defined above preferably represent from 0.001% to 10% by weight, more particularly from 0.005 % to 8% relative to the total weight of the composition or compositions containing them.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not comprise ammonia, nor of ammonia-generating compound, such as ammonium salts. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition does not comprise ammonium salts. Thus, preferably the additional alkaline agent is not chosen from ammonia or ammonium salts.

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention does not include ammonia.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more acidifying agent (s) different from the polyphosphorus derivatives c) as described above.

Among the acidifying agents, there may be mentioned, by way of example, mineral acids such as for example hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, boric acid, nitric acid, sulfuric acid or organic acids such as for example the compounds comprising at least one carboxylic acid function such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, a sulfonic acid function, a phosphonic acid function or a phosphoric acid function.

Preferably citric acid is used.

It can be adjusted by adding acidifying agents which can be chosen from hydrochloric acid, (ortho) phosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, boric acid, as well as carboxylic acids such as, for example, acetic acid, lactic acid, citric acid, or sulfonic acids.

pH of the composition

The lightening composition preferably has a pH varying from 6 to

11.

Preferably the pH of the composition according to the invention is less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10, better still less than or equal to 9.7. Preferably the pH of the composition varies from 6 to 11, better still from 6 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.7. In particular, it is observed that, compared with the existing lightening compositions, the compositions according to the invention make it possible to obtain a good or better level of discoloration while having a substantially lower pH.

Fat body.

According to one embodiment, the composition according to the invention can comprise one or more fatty substances.

By “fatty substance” is meant within the meaning of the present invention an organic compound insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013 × 10 ⁵ Pa), having a solubility in water of less than 5%, preferably less than 1%, and even more preferably less than 0.1%. The fatty substances generally have in their structure a hydrocarbon chain comprising at least 6 carbon atoms. In addition, fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same temperature and pressure conditions, such as, for example, chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petrolatum oil or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane.

The fatty substances are moreover not (poly) oxyalkylenated and not (poly) glycerolated. In other words, fatty substances do not contain in their structure a (poly) oxide of ethylene or (poly) glycerol or (poly) propylene glycol.

The fatty substance (s) may be chosen from solid fatty substances and / or liquid fatty substances (also called “oil”), and their mixtures.

By “oil” is meant a “fatty substance” which is liquid, that is to say which is capable of flowing under the action of its own weight at ambient temperature (25 ° C.), and at atmospheric pressure ( 760 mm Hg, i.e. 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa). Preferably the viscosity at the temperature of 25 ° C and at a shear rate of ls ' ¹ of the oil is between 10' ³ Pa.s and 2 Pa.s. It can be measured with a Thermo Haake RS600 rheometer with flat cone geometry or an equivalent device.

By “solid fatty substance” is understood within the meaning of the present invention a non-liquid fatty substance at room temperature (20-25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa), in particular a compound solid or a compound having a viscosity greater than 2 Pa.s at a shear rate of ls' ¹ under the conditions mentioned above.

The solid fatty substances used in the composition according to the invention have a melting temperature greater than room temperature, preferably a melting temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C, preferably ranging from 46 to 95 ° C.

In particular, the fatty substance can be chosen from hydrocarbon fatty substances, silicone fatty substances and / or fluorinated fatty substances.

By “hydrocarbon fatty substance”, is meant a fatty substance formed essentially, or even constituted, of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen atoms, and not containing any silicon atom. or fluorine. It can contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups.

The hydrocarbon fatty substance can in particular be chosen from hydrocarbons, fatty substances of animal origin, fatty substances of vegetable origin, fatty alcohols and fatty esters and fatty ethers.

According to a first embodiment, the fatty substance can be silicone.

The term “silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance containing at least one silicon atom. The term “non-silicone fatty substance” means a fatty substance that does not contain a silicon (Si) atom.

According to one embodiment, the silicone fatty substance can be a liquid silicone oil (also called silicone oil or liquid silicone). By "liquid silicone" is meant an organopolysiloxane liquid at ordinary temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg; or 1.013.10 ⁵ Pa).

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from liquid polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular liquid polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and liquid polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least one aryl group.

The polydialkylsiloxanes are especially chosen from polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups, and polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA). Polyorganosiloxanes containing aryl groups, in particular which are chosen from polydiarylsiloxanes, in particular poly diphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkyl-arylsiloxanes.

Organopolysiloxanes are defined in more detail in Walter NOLL Chemistry and Technology of Silicones (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or non-volatile.

When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and more particularly still from:

(i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes comprising from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name of VOLATILE SILICONE® 7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE® 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name of VOLATILE SILICONE® 7158 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE ® 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures.

Mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as SILICONE VOLATILE® FZ 3109 sold by the company UNION CARBIDE, of formula:

i— D - D'- -D - D '- | ch ₃ Ç ^H 3 with: - Si-O - with' : -If-O 1 ch ₃ C ₈ H ₁₇

Mention may also be made of mixtures of cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and tetratrimethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-l, l - (hexa -2.2.2 ', 2', 3.3'trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity less than or equal to 5.10 ' ⁶ m ² / s at 25 ° C. These are, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name SH 200 by TORAY SILICONE. Silicones falling into this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91, Jan. 76, P. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics.

Preference is given to using non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, gums and resins of polydialkylsiloxanes, polyorganosiloxanes modified by the above organofunctional groups and their mixtures.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes among which mention may mainly be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to standard ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, non-limiting mention may be made of the following commercial products:

- SILBIONE® oils of series 47 and 70,047 or MIRASIL® oils marketed by RHODIA such as, for example, oil 70,047 V 500,000;

- the oils of the MIRASIL® series sold by the company RHODIA;

- oils of the 200 series from the company DOW CORNING such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm ² / s;

- VISCASIL® oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and certain oils from the SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC.

Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA.

In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products marketed under the names ABIL WAX® 9800 and 9801 by the company

GOLDSCHMIDT which are polydialkyl (C1-C20) siloxanes.

The silicone gums which can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high number average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or as a mixture in a solvent. This solvent can be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane oils (PDMS), polyphenylmethylsiloxane oils (PPMS), isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures.

Preferably, the fatty substances which can be used in the composition according to the invention are non-silicone fatty substances, that is to say a fatty substance not containing a silicon (Si) atom.

According to a second embodiment, the fatty substance can be fluorinated. By “fluorinated fatty substance” is meant a fatty substance containing at least one fluorine atom.

In particular, as fluorinated fatty substances, mention may be made of fluorinated oils such as perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3 dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names of FLUTEC® PCI and FLUTEC® PC3 by the company BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names of PF 5050® and PF 5060® by the company 3M, or even bromoperfluorooctyle sold under the name FORALKYL® by the company Atochem; nonafluoromethoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name PF 5052® by the company 3M.

According to a third preferred embodiment, the fatty substance is a hydrocarbon fatty substance as defined above. In particular, preferably, the hydrocarbon fatty substance (s) are chosen from hydrocarbon oils, solid hydrocarbon fatty substances, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the fatty substance (s), preferably hydrocarbon, are advantageously chosen from hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, C6-C6 alkanes, oils or triglycerides of vegetable origin, liquid synthetic triglycerides, fatty alcohols , fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, or mixtures thereof.

They are preferably chosen from C6-C6 alkanes, linear, branched, possibly cyclic, such as hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, fisododecane and their mixtures; hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and mixtures thereof; liquid fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, fatty acids, esters of fatty acids and / or liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof.

According to a first preferred variant of the invention, the fatty substance is an oil, preferably hydrocarbon-based.

Preferably, the hydrocarbon oils are chosen from:

linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, halogenated or non-halogenated, of less than 16 carbon atoms, in particular having between 6 and 15 carbon atoms, such as hexane, cyclohexane, undecane, dodecane, isododecane, isohexadecane, tridecane, or of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as petrolatum oil, paraffin oil, polydecenes of formula Cio _n H [(2On) +2] in which n varies from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, polybutenes, hydrogenated polybutenes, polyisobutene, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures.

unsaturated or branched liquid fatty alcohols having from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, such as those of formula C _n H _2n + iOH with n an integer inclusive between 6 and 20. Mention may in particular be made of oleic alcohol, linolenic alcohol, linoleic alcohol, ricinoleic alcohol, undecylenic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol, and octyldodecanol.

triglyceride oils of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or also, for example sunflower, corn, soybean oils , squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, macaw, sunflower, castor, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides like those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol® 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; and liquid esters other than triglycerides.

These esters are preferably the liquid esters of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, linear or branched aliphatic mono- or polyacids, in C1-C26 and of linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, aliphatic or polyalcohols, C1-C26 carbon atoms of the esters being greater than or equal to 10.

Preferably, for monoalcohol esters, at least one of the alcohol or of the acid from which the esters of the invention are derived is branched.

Among the monoesters of monoacids and monoalcohols, mention may be made of ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl or ethyl myristate, isocetyl stearate, isononanoate ethyl-2-hexyl, isodecyl neopentanoate, and isostearyl neopentanoate.

It is also possible to use the esters of C4-C22 di- or tricarboxylic acids and of C1-C22 alcohols and the esters of mono-, di- or tricarboxylic acids and of di-, tri- non-sugar alcohols , tetra- or pentahydroxylé in C4-C26.

Mention may in particular be made of: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di n-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl teteasononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate; glyceryl trilactate; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate; diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, hexyl stearate, propylene glycol dicaprylate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate.

The composition may also comprise, as liquid fatty ester, esters and di-esters of sugars and of fatty acids C6-C30, preferably C12-C22. It is recalled that "sugar" is understood to mean oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

The hydrocarbon oils are preferably chosen from the polydecenes of formula Cio _n H [(2On) +2] in which n varies from 3 to 9 and preferably from 3 to 7, fatty alcohols, esters and in particular esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids, esters or diesters of sugars of C12-C24 fatty acids, or cyclic esters, cyclic ethers, hydrocarbon oils, mineral oils, vegetable oils or animal oils, or their mixtures.

Preferably, the liquid fatty substance (s) are chosen from polydecenes, petrolatum oil, paraffin oil, isododecane, fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol or isostearyl alcohol, liquid esters of fatty alcohols or fatty acids, and mixtures thereof.

Even more preferably, the liquid fatty substances are chosen from petrolatum oil, isododecane and octyldodecanol, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the liquid body or bodies at room temperature, preferably hydrocarbon, are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from 5 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 10 to 75% by weight, better still from 20 to 70% by weight, even more advantageously from 25 to 70%, preferably from 25 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

According to a preferred embodiment, the solid fatty substance (s) are hydrocarbon fatty substances, preferably chosen from fatty alcohols and / or fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohols. Preferably, the solid hydrocarbon fatty substances are chosen from solid fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, comprising from 14 to 30 carbon atoms and / or solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and from C9-C26 fatty alcohols.

Preferably, the solid fatty alcohols are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, containing from 14 to 30 carbon atoms. Preferably the fatty alcohol (s) are chosen from saturated and linear fatty alcohols containing from 14 to 30 and preferably from 16 to 22 carbon atoms.

In addition, it is understood that the fatty alcohols do not comprise any C2-C3 oxyalkylenated unit (s) or glycerolated unit (s).

Preferably, the solid fatty substance (s) are chosen from cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenic alcohol and their mixture. For example, cetylstearyl alcohol can be used.

The solid or hydrocarbon fatty substances can also be chosen from fatty acid esters and / or solid fatty alcohols, mention may in particular be made of solid esters derived from C9-C26 fatty acids and C9 fatty alcohols -C26.

In particular, these esters can be chosen from octyldodecyl behenate, isoketyl behenate, cetyl lactate, stearyl octanoate, octyl octanoate, cetyl octanoate, decyl, myristyl stearate, octyl palmitate, cetyl palmitate, octyl pelargonate, octyl stearate, alkyl myristates such as cetyl, mirystyle or stearyl myristate, and hexyl stearate.

Preferably, the fatty substance (s) solid at room temperature, preferably hydrocarbon, are present in the composition according to the invention in a total content ranging from to 0.1% to 15% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 10% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 8% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably, the fatty substance (s) are chosen from liquid fatty substances, preferably hydrocarbon oils, more preferably from:

- Cô-Cô alkanes, linear, branched, possibly cyclic, such as hexane, dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohexadecane, isodecane, and their mixtures;

- hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, preferably paraffin oils, petroleum jelly, petroleum jelly oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam®, and their mixtures,

- fatty alcohols, such as octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol, behenic alcohol and their mixtures;

- and their mixtures.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least a total of 10% by weight of fatty substances, preferably non-silicone, in particular oils, preferably non-silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition of the invention.

More particularly, the composition according to the invention may comprise at least 5% by weight, preferably at least 10% by weight, better at least 15% by weight, better at least 20% by weight, even better at least 25% by weight. weight of fatty substances preferably non-silicone, in particular oils, preferably non-silicone, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention more particularly has a content of preferably non-silicone fatty substances, in particular of oils, preferably non-silicone, ranging from 5 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, of preferably from 15 to 75% by weight, better from 20 to 70% by weight, even more advantageously from 25 to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Surfactants:

The composition according to the present invention may comprise one or more surfactants. These can be chosen from anionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and cationic surfactants.

The term “anionic surfactant” is intended to mean a surfactant comprising only anionic groups as ionic or ionizable groups. These anionic groups are preferably chosen from the groups CO2H, CO2, SO ₃ H, SO ₃ , OSO3H, OSO ₃ , H2PO3, HPO ₃ , PO ₃ ² , H2PO2, HPO ₂ , PO ₂ ² , POH and PO.

Examples of anionic surfactants which can be used in the composition according to the invention include alkyl sulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamidoethersulfates, alkylarylpolyethersulfates, monoglyceride sulfates, alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates , alpha-olefinsulfonates, paraffin sulfonates, alkyl sulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfoacetates, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylsulfosuccinamates, acylisethionates and C-alkyl) N-acyltaurates, the salts of alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside-polycarboxylic acids, acyllactylates, the salts of D-galactosideuronic acids, the salts of alkyl ether-carboxylic acids, the salts of alkyl aryl ethercarboxylic acids, salts of alkyl amidoether-carboxylic acids; and the corresponding non-salified forms of all these compounds; the alkyl and acyl groups of all these compounds (unless otherwise stated) generally containing from 6 to 24 carbon atoms and the aryl group generally denoting a phenyl group.

These compounds can be oxyethylenated and then preferably contain from 1 to 50 ethylene oxide units.

The salts of C 6 -C 24 alkyl monoesters and of polyglycoside polycarboxylic acids can be chosen from C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside citrates, C 6 -C 24 alkyl polyglycoside tartrates and alkyl polyglycoside sulfosuccinates C6-C24.

When the anionic surfactant (s) are in salt form, they can be chosen from alkali metal salts such as the sodium or potassium and preferably sodium salt, ammonium salts, amine salts and in particular particular amino alcohols or alkaline earth metal salts such as the magnesium salt.

By way of example of amino alcohol salts, mention may in particular be made of the mono-, di- and triethanolamine salts, the mono-, di- or tri-isopropanol-amine salts, the 2-amino 2-methyl salts 1-propanol, 2-amino 2-methyl 1,3-propanediol and tris (hydroxymethyl) amino methane.

The alkali or alkaline earth metal salts are preferably used and in particular the sodium or magnesium salts.

The anionic surfactants which may be present may be mild anionic surfactants, that is to say without sulphate function.

As regards mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures:

polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids;

polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids;

polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids, in particular those comprising 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups;

uronic alkyl D galactoside acids; acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates; and carboxylic alkylpolyglycoside esters.

In particular, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids can be used, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5 EO), sold for example under the name ΑΚΥΡΟ RLM 45 CA from KAO.

The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) which can be used in the present invention may in particular be derivatives of secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines, optionally quaternized, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms , said amine derivatives containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group.

Mention may in particular be made of (C8-C2o) alkyl betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-C2o alkyl) amido (Cf-Csbbetaine alkyl or (C8-C2o alkyl) amido (C6-C8 alkyl) sulfobetaines .

Among the derivatives of optionally quaternized secondary or tertiary aliphatic amines which can be used, as defined above, mention may also be made of the following compounds of respective structures (Ai), (A ₂ ) and (A ₃ ):

R _a -CONHCH2CH2-N ⁺ (R _b ) (R _c ) (CH ₂ COO) (Ai) in which:

R _a represents a C 10 -C 30 alkyl or alkenyl group derived from an acid R _a COOH preferably present in hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group,

Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and

Rc represents a carboxymethyl group; and

R ' _a -CONHCH ₂ CH ₂ -N (B) (B') (A ₂ ) in which:

B represents -CH2CH2OX ',

B 'represents - (CH ₂ ) _Z -Y', with z = 1 or 2,

X 'represents the group -CH ₂ -COOH, CH ₂ -COOZ', -CH ₂ CH ₂ -COOH, CH2CH2-COOZ ', or a hydrogen atom,

Y 'represents -COOH, -COOZ', the group -CH ₂ -CHOH-SO ₃ H or CH ₂ -CHOHSO ₃ Z ',

Z ’represents an ion derived from an alkaline or alkaline-earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine,

R ' _a represents a C10 to C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R' _a -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl group, in particular C17 and its form iso, an unsaturated C17 group.

These compounds of formula (Ai) or (A ₂₎ are classified in the CTFA dictionary, ^5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate capryloamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate disodium cocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate of disodium, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate marketed by the company RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL® C2M concentrate.

R _a ”-NHCH (Y”) - (CH ₂ ) _n CONH (CH ₂ ) _n -N (Rd) (R _e ) (A ₃ ) formula in which:

Y ”represents the group -COOH, -COOZ”, -CH ₂ -CH (OH) SO3H or the group CH ₂ CH (OH) SO ₃ -Z ”;

Rd and Re, independently of one another, represent a C1-C4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical;

Z ”represents a cationic counter ion derived from an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, an ammonium ion or an ion derived from an organic amine;

R _a ”represents a C10-C30 alkyl or alkenyl group of an acid R _a ” -COOH preferably present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil;

n and n ’, independently of each other, denote an integer ranging from 1 to 3.

Among the compounds of formula (A ₃ ), mention may be made of the compound classified in the CTFA dictionary under the name sodium diethylaminopropyl cocoaspartamide and marketed by the company CHIMEX under the name CHIMEXANE HB.

Among the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants mentioned above, use is preferably made of (C8-C ₂ o) alkyl betaines such as cocoylbetaine, (C8-C ₂ o alkyl) amido (Cs-Csjbetaine alkyl such than cocoylamidopropyl betaine, and mixtures thereof More preferably, the amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactant (s) are chosen from cocoylamidopropyl betaine and cocoyl betaine.

The nonionic surfactant (s) in the compositions of the present invention are in particular described, for example, in "Handbook of Surfactants" by

M.R. PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178. They are chosen in particular from alcohols, alpha-diols, alkyl (Ci-C2o) phenols or fatty acids, these compounds being ethoxylated, propoxylated or glycerolated, and having at least one fatty chain comprising, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups possibly ranging from 1 to 200 and the number of glycerol groups possibly ranging from 1 to 30.

Mention may also be made of condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; ethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, fatty acid esters of sorbitan ethoxylates having from 1 to 30 ethylene oxide units, fatty acid esters of sucrose, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, (C 6 -C 24 alkyl) polyglycosides, oxyethylenated vegetable oils, N- derivatives (C6C24 alkyl) glucamine, amine oxides such as (Cio-Cujamines alkyl or N- (Cio-Cnj-aminopropylmorpholine) oxides.

The cationic surfactant (s) which can be used in the composition according to the invention are generally chosen from the salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated, quaternary ammonium salts, and their mixtures.

Mention may in particular be made, as quaternary ammonium salts, for example:

- those corresponding to the following general formula (X):

^R 8 \ / ^R 10

NX ^R 9 R _n (X) in which the groups Rg to Ru, which may be identical or different, represent an aliphatic group, linear or branched, comprising from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic group such as aryl or alkylaryl , at least one of the groups Rg to Ru comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 24 carbon atoms. The aliphatic groups can comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens.

The aliphatic groups are for example chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C2-C6), C1-C30 alkylamide, (Ci2C22) amidoalkyl (C2-C6), alkyl (Ci2- C22) acetate, and C1-C30 hydroxyalkyl, X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (CiCQsulfates, alkyl (Ci-C4) - or alkyl (Ci-C4) aryl-sulfonates.

Among the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (X), tetraalkylammonium chlorides are preferred on the one hand, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl group contains approximately from 12 to 22 atoms of carbon, in particular behenyltrimethylammonium chlorides, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium or, on the other hand, distearoylethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium methosulfate, dipalmitoylethylhydroxyethylammethylethylammethylethyl hydroxyethylammonium methane stearamidopropyldimethyl chloride (myristylacetate) -ammonium marketed under the name CERAPHYL® 70 by the company VAN DYK.

- the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as for example those of formula (XI) below:

R

CH ₂ CH - N (R ₁₅ ) —CO— R (xi) in which

R12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl group comprising from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids,

R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group or an alkenyl or alkyl group containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms,

R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl group,

Ris represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl group, X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl (CiC ₄ ) sulfates, alkyl (Ci-C4) - or alkyl (Ci-C ₄ ) aryl sulfonates.

Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl groups comprising from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids, R14 denotes a methyl group, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT® W 75 by the company REWO.

- the quaternary di- or triammonium salts in particular of formula (XII) below:

R-17 ^ 19 ^R "- N— (CH ₂ ) ₃ - N— R ₂₁

R R ^ 18 20

2+

2X (XII) in which Ri6 denotes an alkyl group comprising approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms optionally hydroxylated and / or interrupted by one or more oxygen atoms,

R17 is chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms or a group - (CH ₂ ) 3-N ⁺ (Ri6a) (Ri7a) (Ri8a),

Ri6a, Ri7a, Ri8a, Ris, R19, R20 and R ₂ i, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an alkyl group comprising from 1 to 4 carbon atoms, and

X 'is an anion chosen from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl sulfates, (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl - or (C ₁ -C ₄ ) alkyl aryl sulfonates, in particular methyl sulfate and ethyl sulfate.

Such compounds are for example Finquat CT-P offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 89), Finquat CT offered by the company FINETEX (Quaternium 75).

- quaternary ammonium salts containing one or more ester functions, such as, for example, those of formula (XIII) below:

(C _s H _2s O) _z - r ₂₅ o

^R 24 C - (O — CrHr2 (OH) r1) y — N ⁺ - (CtH _t2 (OH) _t1 —O) —R ₂₃ X ^R22 (XIII) in which:

R22 is chosen from C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups and C 1 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl groups,

R23 is chosen from:

O

- the ^{Rze c} group

- the R27 C1-C22 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R25 is chosen from:

O

- the ^{Rzs c} group,

- the R29 C 1 -C 6 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated,

- the hydrogen atom,

R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C7-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6, rl and tl, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1, r2 + rl = 2 r and tl +12 = 2 t, y is an integer are worth from 1 to 10, x and z, identical or different, are integers being worth from 0 to 10,

X 'is a simple or complex, organic or inorganic anion, provided that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then

R23 denotes R27 and when z is 0 then R25 denotes R29.

The alkyl groups R22 can be linear or branched and more particularly linear.

Preferably, R22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl group, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl group.

Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is worth from 1 to 10.

When R ₂₃ is a hydrocarbon group R ₂₇ , it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

When R ₂ 5 is a hydrocarbon R ₂ 9 group, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

Advantageously, R ₂ 4, R ₂ 6 and R ₂ x, which are identical or different, are chosen from C11-C21 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and more particularly from C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl groups , linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Preferably, x and z, identical or different, are worth 0 or 1.

Advantageously, y is equal to 1.

Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are worth 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2.

The anion X is preferably a halide, preferably chloride, bromide or iodide, an alkyl (Ci-C4) sulfate, alkyl (Ci-C4) - or alkyl (Ci-C4) aryl-sulfonate. It is however possible to use methanesulfonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium having an ester function.

The anion X is even more particularly chloride, methylsulfate or ethylsulfate.

More particularly used in the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (XIII) in which:

- R ₂₂ denotes a methyl or ethyl group,

- x and y are equal to 1,

- z is 0 or 1,

- r, s and t are equal to 2,

- R ₂₃ is chosen from:

O

- the ^{Rz6 C} group

- methyl, ethyl or Ch-C ₂₂ hydrocarbon groups,

- the hydrogen atom,

- R ₂ 5 is chosen from:

ο

- the ^{Rzs c} group,

- the hydrogen atom,

- R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from C13-C17 hydrocarbon groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and preferably from C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl groups, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated.

Advantageously, the hydrocarbon groups are linear.

Mention may be made, for example, among the compounds of formula (XIII) of the salts, in particular the chloride or methyl sulfate of diacyloxyethyldimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethyl methylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyldihydroxyethylmethyl ammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of mono acyloxyethylhydroxyethylammonium. The acyl groups preferably have 14 to 18 carbon atoms and more particularly come from a vegetable oil such as palm or sunflower oil. When the compound contains several acyl groups, these can be the same or different.

These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or on mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by quaternization using an alkylating agent, such as an alkyl halide, preferably methyl or ethyl, a dialkyl sulfate, preferably methyl or ethyl, methyl methanesulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, chlorohydrin, glycol or glycerol.

Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART® by the company HENKEL, STEPANQUAT® by the company STEPAN, NOXAMIUM® by the company CECA, REWOQUAT® WE 18 by the company REWOWITCO.

The composition according to the invention can contain, for example, a mixture of mono-, di- and triester salts of quaternary ammonium with a majority by weight of diester salts.

It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in patents US-A-4,874,554 and US-A-4,137,180.

It is also possible to use behenoylhydroxypropyltrimethylammonium chloride, for example, offered by the company KAO under the name Quartamin BTC 131.

Preferably, the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function contain two ester functions.

Among the cationic surfactants, it is more particularly preferred to choose the salts of cetyltrimethylammonium, of behenyltrimethylammonium, of dipalmitoylethylhydroxy ethylmethylammonium, and their mixtures, and more particularly behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, cetyltrimethylammonium chloride, methosulphethylmethylammonium hydroxide.

Preferably, the surfactant (s) are chosen from anionic and / or nonionic surfactants. When the composition comprises one or more surfactants, their content may preferably vary from 0.05 to 20% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 5% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

Liquid organic solvents

According to one embodiment of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more liquid organic solvents, distinct from the fatty substances mentioned above.

By "organic solvent" is meant an organic substance capable of dissolving or dispersing another substance without chemically modifying it.

The said organic solvent (s) can be chosen from lower C1-C4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, monoethyl ether and diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, hexylene glycol, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof .

Preferably the said organic solvent (s) is (are) chosen from liquid organic compounds having a solubility parameter δΗ of Hansen / 9 greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa.

In the context of the present invention, such a compound is also called a hydrotropic compound.

By hydrotropic compound is meant in the sense of the present invention a compound capable of increasing the solubility of hydrophobic compounds in the aqueous phases.

Said liquid compounds more preferably have a Hansen solubility parameter δΗ of between 5 and 15.8 MPa / 2, even more preferably between 8 and 15.8 MPa ^1/2 , and better still between 8 and 15 MPa ^1/2 .

These compounds are liquid at a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, or 1.013.105 Pa).

The compound (s) exhibiting a value of the Hansen solubility parameter δΗ, as defined above, are for example described in the reference work "Hansen solubility parameters A user's handbook, Charles M. HANSEN", CRC Press, 2000, pages 167 to 185, or in the book “Handbook of Solubility Parameters and other cohesion parameters”, CRC, Press, pages 95 to 121 and pages 177 to 185.

This value of the solubility parameter δΗ is linked to the formation of hydrogen bonds. It may be recalled that there are three major types of interactions in organic compounds, non-polar interactions, dipole-permanent dipole interactions and interactions of the hydrogen bond type, the latter being the subject of the parameter defining the hydrotropic compound. present in the composition used in accordance with the invention.

In particular, the book “Handbook of Solubility Parameters and other cohesion parameters”, CRC Press, pages 95 to 121 and pages 177 to 185, gives the equation δΗ = (X-zUh / V) l / 2 where, zUh ( in J. mol-1) describes the contributions of the functional group considered in the solubility parameters linked to hydrogen bonds (values in table 14, page

183), this parameter zUh being also described in the book "The relation between surface tension and solubility parameter in liquids", Bagda, E, Farbe Lack, 84, 212, 1978; and V is the volume of the molecule.

It should be noted that the value of the solubility parameter δΗ is usually given for a temperature of 25 ° C and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 1.013.105 Pa).

In particular, liquid organic compounds having a value of the Hansen solubility parameter δΗ greater than 0 and less than 16 MPa ’Λ, are nonionic compounds.

Preferably, the said liquid organic solvent (s) are chosen from alcohol ethers, aliphatic esters, aliphatic ethers, aromatic ethers, aryl substituted alkanols, lactones and mixtures thereof.

The said liquid organic solvent (s) may preferably be chosen from:

• alcohol ethers, in particular C1-C4 ethers of C5-C30 alcohols, preferably saturated, linear or branched, possibly interrupted by one or more non-adjacent ether functions;

• the aliphatic esters of C1-C4 carboxylic acids and of C3-C10 mono or poly-hydroxylated alcohols, interrupted by one or more non-adjacent ether functions;

• the aromatic ethers, in particular in C6-C10, of C1-C6 alkyl possibly carrying a hydroxyl group, • the aryl (C6-C10) (C1-C6) alkyl, of C1-C6 alkyl ethers optionally carrying a hydroxyl group, • the aryl-substituted alkanols, preferably for which the aryl part is C6-C10, advantageously C6, and the alkyl part of the C1-C4 alkanol, this alkyl part being able to be terminated or interrupted by a heteroatom, advantageously oxygen or a hydroxyl group, preferably such as benzyl alcohol;

• the lactones preferably of formula (iii), as well as their mixtures, with:

R '.0 (CH ₂ ) _n (iü) in which R' represents hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C4 alkyl, linear or branched C1-C4 hydroxyalkyl, n is 1, 2 or 3 and preferably R 'represents hydrogen, linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl, linear or branched C1-C2 hydroxyalkyl.

As particularly advantageous examples of lactones, mention may be made of γbutyrolactone.

Mention may also be made of certain liquid alkanols, for example 1pentanol.

Even more preferably, said liquid organic solvent (s) are chosen from dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether acetate, dipropylene glycol methyl ether, dipropylene glycol mono n-butyl ether (whose INCI name is PPG-2 BUTYL ETHER), tripropylene glycol methyl ether , propylene glycol n-butyl ether, propylene glycol n-propyl ether, monomethyl ether of propylene glycol, monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether of diethylene glycol, 3-phenyl-l-propanol, 2phenyl-l-propanol, benzyl alcohol , benzyloxyethanol, phenoxyethanol, and mixtures of these compounds.

The liquid organic solvent (s) is (are) preferably chosen from among propylene glycol derivatives and aromatic alcohols, and mixtures thereof; even more preferably chosen from alkanols with aryl substituents and even more preferably benzyl alcohol and / or propylene glycol nbutyl ether.

Preferably, when they are present, the liquid organic solvent (s) represent a total content varying from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Direct dyes

The composition according to the invention may optionally comprise b) one or more synthetic or natural direct dyes, chosen from cationic, anionic and nonionic species, preferably cationic or nonionic species.

Examples of suitable direct dyes which may be mentioned include azo direct dyes; (poly) methine dyes such as cyanines, hemicyanins and styryles; carbonyl dyes; azine dyes; nitro (hetero) aryl dyes; tri (hetero) arylmethane dyes; porphyrin dyes; phthalocyanine dyes and natural direct dyes, alone or in the form of mixtures.

The direct dyes are preferably cationic direct dyes. Mention may be made of the cationic hydrazono dyes of the formulas (Ilia) and (IU’a), the cationic dyes azo (IVa) and (IV’a) and the cationic dyes diazo (Va) below:

Het ⁺ -C (R ^a ) = NN (R ^b ) -Ar,

An (Ilia)

Ar ⁺ -N = N-Ar ”, An (IV'a)

Het ⁺ -N (R ^a ) -N = C (R ^b ) -Ar,

An '(IU’a)

And

Het ⁺ -N = N-Ar, An '(IVa)

Het ⁺ -N = N- Ar '-N = N- Ar, An (Va) in which formulas (Ilia), (IU'a), (IVa), (IV'a) and (Va):

• Het ⁺ represents a heteroaryl cationic radical, preferably carrying an endocyclic cationic charge, such as imidazolium, indolium or pyridinium, optionally substituted, preferably, by one or more groups (Ci-Cgj-alkyl, such as methyl;

• Ar ⁺ represents an aryl radical, such as phenyl or naphthyl, carrying an exocyclic cationic charge, preferably ammonium, in particular tri (CiCx) alkyl ammonium such as trimethylammonium;

• Ar represents an aryl group, in particular phenyl, which is optionally substituted, preferably by one or more electron donor groups, such as i) (Ci-Csjalkyl optionally substituted, ii) (Ci-Csjalcoxy optionally substituted, iii) (di) (Ci-C8) (alkyl) amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group (s) by a hydroxyl group, iv) aryl (Ci-C8) alkylamino, v) N- (Ci-C8) alkyl- N-aryl (CiCsjalkylamino optionally substituted or, alternatively, Ar represents a julolidine group;

• Ar 'represents an optionally substituted divalent (hetero) arylene group, such as phenylene, in particular para-phenylene, or naphthalene, which are optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (Ci-Csjalkyl, hydroxylated or (Ci-Csjalcoxy) groups ;

• Ar ”represents an optionally substituted (hetero) aryl group, such as phenyl or pyrazolyl, which are optionally substituted, preferably by one or more (Ci-Csalkyl, hydroxyl, (di) (Ci-C8) (alkyl) amino groups , (C 1 -C 6 alkoxy or phenyl;

• R ^a and R ^b , which may be the same or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a group (Ci-Csjalkyle, which is optionally substituted, preferably by a hydroxyl group;

or, alternatively, the substituent R ^a with a substituent of Het ⁺ and / or R ^b with a substituent of Ar and / or R ^a with R ^b form, together with the atoms which carry them, a (hetero) cycloalkyl;

in particular, R ^a and R ^b represent a hydrogen atom or a group (CiCQalkyle, which is optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group;

• An represents an anionic counterion, such as mesylate or halide.

Mention may in particular be made of the cationic azo and hydrazono dyes carrying an endocyclic cationic charge of the formulas (Ilia), (IIPa) and (IVa) as defined above. More particularly, those of formulas (Ilia), (IU’a) and (IVa) derived from the dyes described in patent applications WO 95/15144, WO 95/01772 and EP-714954.

Preferably, the cationic part is derived from the following derivatives:

(IIIa-1) (IVa-1) formulas (III-1) and (IV-1) with:

- R ¹ representing a (Ci-C4) -alkyl group such as methyl;

- R ² and R ³ , which are identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a (Ci-C4) -alkyl group, such as methyl; and

- R ⁴ represent a hydrogen atom or an electron donor group, such as an optionally substituted (Ci-Cs) alkyl group, (Ci-Cs) optionally substituted alkoxy or (di) (Ci-C8) (alkyl ) amino optionally substituted on the alkyl group (s) by a hydroxyl group; in particular R ⁴ represents a hydrogen atom,

- Z represents a CH group or a nitrogen atom, preferably CH;

- An represents an anionic counterion, such as mesylate or halide.

In particular, the dye of formulas (IIIa-1) and (IVa-1) is chosen from Basic Red 51, Basic Yellow 87 and Basic Orange 31 or corresponding derivatives:

Among the natural direct dyes which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of hennotannic acid, juglone, alizarin, purpurin, carminic acid, kermesic acid, purpurogallin, protocatechaldehyde, indigo,

Tisatin, curcumin, spinulosin, apigenidin and Torcein. Extracts or decoctions containing these natural dyes and in particular poultices or extracts based on henna can also be used.

When they are present, the direct dye (s) represent more particularly 0.001% to 10% by weight and preferably 0.005% to 5% by weight of the total weight of the composition.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the method is a coloring method and the composition contains at least one direct dye as defined above.

Middle

The cosmetically acceptable medium suitable for lightening keratin fibers, also called “support”, generally comprises water or a mixture of water and at least one organic solvent as described above or a mixture of organic solvents for solubilize compounds which are not sufficiently soluble in water.

The compositions used according to the invention generally comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more organic solvents or a mixture of organic solvents.

The composition according to the invention preferably comprises water.

Preferably the water content varies from 5 to 90% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, better still from 20 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

Cationic polymers

According to an advantageous embodiment of the invention, the composition comprises one or more cationic polymers.

As cationic polymers which can be used in the compositions according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular:

(1) alkyl diallyl amine or dialkyl diallyl ammonium cyclopolymers such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (I) or (II):

(CH ₂ ) k

- (CH ₂ ) t - CR ₁₂ C (R ₁₂ ) -CH ₂ h ₂ c

CHL (CH ₂ ) k

- (CH ₂ ) t- - cr ₁₂ Ç (Ri ₂ ) - ^CH 2 'CH,

H ₂ C (l) ⁿ + _Y.

(He)

Rio ' ^R 11 in which

- k and t are equal to 0 or 1, the sum k +1 being equal to 1;

- R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl radical;

- RIO and R11, independently of one another, denote a C1-C6 alkyl group, a C1-C5 hydroxyalkyl group, an C1-C4 amidoalkyl group; or else RIO and R11 can denote jointly with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, a heterocyclic group such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; RIO and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote a C1-C4 alkyl group;

- Y is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate.

Mention may more particularly be made of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium salts (for example chloride), for example sold under the name MERQUAT 100 by the company NALCO. Preferably, the polymers of family (1) are chosen from homopolymers of dialkyl diallyl ammonium .

(2) quaternary diammonium polymers comprising repeating units of formula

N + -A ₁ -N- ^ B ₁

XR X “^ 16 in which:

- R13, R14, R15 and R16, identical or different, represent aliphatic, alicyclic, or arylaliphatic radicals comprising from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or hydroxyalkylaliphatic radicals in Cl-Cl2, or else R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, constitute with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached heterocycles optionally comprising a second heteroatom other than nitrogen or else RI 3, RI4, RI 5 and RI 6 represent a linear or branched substituted C1-C6 alkyl radical by a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-D or -CO-NH-R17D group where RI 7 is an alkylene and D a quaternary ammonium group;

-Al and B1 represent divalent polymethylenic groups comprising from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and which can contain, linked to or inserted in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and

- X 'denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid;

it being understood that Al, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring;

in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene radical, B1 can also denote a group (CH2) n-CO-D-OC- (CH2) p-, with n and p, identical or different, being integers varying from 2 to 20, and D denoting:

a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: (CH2CH2O) x-CH2CH2- and - [CH2CH (CH3) O] y -CH2CH (CH3) - where x and y denote an integer from 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing an average degree of polymerization;

b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative;

c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH- where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, or else the divalent radical -CH2-CH2-S-S-CH2-CH2-;

d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-.

Preferably, X 'is an anion such as chloride or bromide. These polymers have a number-average molar mass (Mn) generally between 1000 and 100,000.

Mention may more particularly be made of cationic polymers which consist of recurring units corresponding to the formula:

? ³

- N ⁺ (CH ₂ ) _n -hH (CH ₂ ) _p - (IV) '\ z' X r ₂ xr ₄ in which RI, R2, R3 and R4, identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms, n and p are whole numbers varying from 2 to 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid.

A particularly preferred compound of formula (IV) is that for which RI, R2, R3 and R4 represent a methyl radical, n = 3, p = 6 and X = Cl, called Hexadimethrine chloride according to the INCI nomenclature (CTFA).

Preferably, the cationic polymer (s) is / are chosen from homopolymers of dialkyl diallyl ammonium, in particular homopolymers of dimethyldiallylammonium salts, the polymers consisting of recurring units corresponding to formula (IV) ) above, in particular poly (dimethyliminio) -1, 3propanediyl (dimethyliminio) -1, 6-hexanediyldichloride, whose name INCI hexadimethrine chloride and their mixtures.

When they are present, the concentration of cationic polymers in the composition according to the present invention can vary from 0.01 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5%, relative to the weight of the composition, even more advantageously from 0.2 to 3% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition.

Other additives

The composition according to the invention may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair lightening compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic polymers or their mixtures; mineral thickening agents, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickening agents, with in particular associative anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric thickeners; antioxidants; penetration agents; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersing agents; film-forming agents; ceramides; preservatives; opacifying agents.

The above adjuvants are generally present in an amount for each of them of between 0.01 and 40% by weight relative to the weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the composition or to the composition (s) useful in the lightening process according to the invention does not are not, or not substantially, altered by the planned addition (s).

The composition may in particular comprise one or more thickening agents. In particular, the thickening agents may be mineral thickening agents chosen from organophilic clays, fumed silicas, or their mixtures.

The organophilic clay can be chosen from montmorillonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and their mixtures. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite.

These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amino soaps, fatty sulfates, alkyl aryl sulfonates, amine oxides, and their mixtures.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by the company Rhéox, Tixogel VP by the company United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by the company Rheox, Tixogel LG by the company United Catalyst, Claytone AF, Claytone APA by the company Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by the company Southern Clay.

Pyrogenic silicas can be obtained by high-temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are for example marketed under the names AEROSIL

130®, AEROSIL 200®, AEROSIL 255®, AEROSIL 300®, AEROSIL 380® by Degussa, CAB-O-SIL HS-5®, CAB-O-SIL EH-5®, CAB-O-SIL LM- 130®, CAB-O-SIL MS-55®, CAB-O-SIL M-5® by the company Cabot.

It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups can be:

- Trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references AEROSIL R812® by the company Degussa, CABO-SIL TS-530® by the company Cabot.

- dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are called Silica dimethyl silylate according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references AEROSIL R972®, AEROSIL R974® by the company Degussa, CAB-O-SIL TS-610®, CAB-O-SIL TS-720® by the company Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size which can be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from approximately 5 to 200 nm.

When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

The composition can also include one or more organic thickening agents.

These thickening agents can be chosen from fatty acid amides (diethanol- or monoethanol-coconut amide, oxyethylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acid monoethanolamide), polymeric thickeners such as cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid and associative polymers (polymers comprising hydrophilic zones, and hydrophobic fatty chain zones (alkyl, alkenyl comprising at least 10 carbon atoms) capable, in an aqueous medium, of reversibly associating with each other or with other molecules).

According to a particular embodiment, the organic thickener is chosen from cellulosic thickeners (hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose), guar gum and its derivatives (hydroxypropylguar), gums of microbial origin (xanthan gum, scleroglucan gum ), crosslinked homopolymers of acrylic acid or acrylamidopropanesulfonic acid, and preferably from cellulosic thickeners with in particular hydroxyethylcellulose.

The content of organic thickening agent (s), if present, usually varies from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight.

The composition of the invention can be in various forms, such as, for example, a solution, an emulsion (milk or cream) or a gel, preferably in the form of an emulsion and particularly of a direct emulsion.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

(a) hydrogen peroxide, (b) one or more organic amines as defined above, (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives, preferably chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms linked between them covalently by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom, in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition;

(d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s);

(e) preferably one or more surfactants;

(f) preferably one or more fatty substances, preferably non-silicone;

(g) preferably one or more liquid organic solvents;

the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from the said peroxygenated salt (s), the pH of the said composition preferably being less than or equal to 11, preferably between 6 and 11, preferably between 6 and 10 limits included.

Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises:

(a) hydrogen peroxide (b) one or more organic amine (s) as defined above, (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms linked together covalently by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom in a total content greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative the total weight of the composition;

(d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s);

(e) preferably one or more surfactants;

(f) preferably one or more fatty substances in a content ranging from 5 to 40% by weight, preferably from 5 to 30% by weight, better still from 10 to 25%, relative to the weight of the composition; and (g) preferably one or more liquid organic solvent (s)

the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from the said peroxygenated salt (s), and the pH of the said composition preferably being less than or equal to 11, preferably between 6 and 11, preferably between 6 and 10,

According to the present invention, the limits of the value ranges are included.

Lightening process

The lightening process according to the invention consists in applying the composition comprising at least the ingredients a) to d) and optionally the ingredients e), and / or f) and / or g) as defined above on keratin materials, preferably dry or wet keratin fibers. The composition is left in place for a duration, generally from 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably from 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the lightening process is conventionally between room temperature (between 15 to 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C.

At the end of the treatment, the keratin materials, preferably the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally undergoes washing with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or left at to dry.

The composition according to the invention is preferably prepared by mixing at least two compositions. Preferably, the mixing of said at least two compositions is carried out extemporaneously, before the application of the composition according to the invention to the keratin fibers.

In a first variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising at least the ingredients (a) to (d) and optionally the ingredients e), and / or f) and / or g) as defined above, is resulting from the mixture of two compositions:

- a composition (A) comprising (a) one or more oxidizing agents as described above, and a composition (B) comprising (b) one or more organic amine (s) as defined above and (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s) as defined above and (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives as defined above, such that the content of polyphosphorus derivatives (c) of the lightening composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) + (B) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from the said peroxygenated salts.

Preferably the pH of the composition is less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10, better still less than or equal to 9.7. Preferably the pH of the composition varies from 6 to 11, better from 6 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.7

Preferably, at least one of the compositions (A) or (B) is aqueous.

Even more preferably, the two compositions (A) and (B) are aqueous.

By "aqueous composition" is meant a composition comprising at least 5% water. Preferably, an aqueous composition comprises more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water.

Preferably, the composition (A) is aqueous.

The compositions (A) and (B) are preferably mixed in a weight ratio (A) / (B) ranging from 0.2 to 10 better still from 0.5 to 2.

According to this embodiment, the lightening process therefore consists in applying to the keratin fibers the lightening composition obtained from the mixture of the compositions (A) and (B) mentioned above.

In a second variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising at least the ingredients (a) to (d) and optionally the ingredients e), and / or f) and / or g) as defined above, is resulting from the mixture of two compositions:

a composition (A) comprising (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives as described above and (a) hydrogen peroxide and (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s), the polyphosphorus derivative (s) ( s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s), and

- a composition (B) comprising (b) one or more organic amine (s) as defined above,

-, and (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives as defined above, so that the content of polyphosphorus derivatives (c) of the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) + (B) is greater or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from the said peroxygenated salt (s) and preferably that the pH of the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) + (B) is preferably less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10. Preferably the pH of the composition varies from 6 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.7.

In a third variant of the invention, the composition according to the invention comprising at least the ingredients (a) to (d) and optionally the ingredients e), and / or f) and / or g) as defined above, is resulting from the mixture of three compositions:

- a composition (A) comprising (a) hydrogen peroxide,

a composition (B) comprising (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s), and

a composition (C) comprising (b) (b) one or more organic amine (s) as defined above,

-, and (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives as defined above, said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s), so that preferably the content of polyphosphorus derivatives (c) of the lightening composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) + (B) + (C) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Preferably the pH of the composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) + (B) + (C) is less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10, better still less than or equal to 9.7 . Preferably the pH of the composition varies from 6 to 11, better still from 6 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.7

Device

Finally, the invention relates to a device with several compartments comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition (A) as described above and at least a second compartment containing the composition (B) as described above, and optionally a third compartment containing the composition (C) as described above, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application.

The content of polyphosphorus derivative (s) of the formulation resulting from the mixture of (A) + (B) or (A) + (B) + (C) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to by weight of the formulation resulting from the mixture of the compositions of the various compartments and the pH is preferably less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10. better still less than or equal to 9.7. Preferably the pH of the composition varies from 6 to 11, better from 6 to 10, and more preferably from 7 to 9.7

The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting.

In these examples, the color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system, using a Minolta Spectrophotometer CM2600D colorimeter.

In this L * a * b * system, the three parameters respectively designate the intensity of the color (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis. The higher the value of L *, the lighter the color. The higher the value of a *, the redder the color, the higher the value of b *, the more yellow the color.

The variation or the importance of the lightening between the strands of untreated hair and the strands of hair after treatment is defined by the parameter DE * and is calculated according to the following equation:

DE * = V (L * -L _o *) ² + (a * -a0 *) ² + (b * -b0 *) ² (i)

In this equation, the parameters L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on the locks of hair after lightening and the parameters L _o *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on the locks of untreated hair. The higher the value of DE *, the better the lightening of the keratin fibers.

1} Example 1:

The following lightening compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in grams:

component A invention component B invention component C invention component D invention component E invention Asparagine 2.5 2.63 4.1 Methionine 3.13 Di sodium Tyrosinate 3.8 7.5N soda 2.5 2.66 4.1 2.8 pyrophosphate potassium 5.9 4.75 5.9 6 4.9 Water 16.3 17.1 17.6 18 15.7 Dodecane 27.1 28.5 29.4 20 16.3 Benzyl alcohol 0.9 0.95 1 1 0.8 l- (2-butoxy-l- methylethoxy) propane-2- ol 9 9.5 4.9 10 8.1 Laureth-2 0.5 0.47 0.5 Sodium laureth sulfate 26% ai in water 35.3 33.4 31 34.6 48.0 Acid solution phosphoric Qsp pH 9.8 Qsp pH 9.8 Qsp pH 9.8 Qsp pH 10.3. Qsp pH 11

The lightening compositions A to E are mixed with hydrogen peroxide (50%) (20 final volumes) and with a parsley and then applied to locks of natural Caucasian pigmented hair with a pitch of 4 (HT4),

The “mixture / wick” bath ratio is 10/1 (g / g) respectively.

The pause time of 1 hour, on a hot plate set either at 33 ° C or 40 ° C. At the end of the pause time, the locks are rinsed and then dried under a helmet at 40 ° C.

They are then applied to locks of natural Caucasian pigmented hair with a pitch of 4 (HT4) with a bathing ratio “dye / wick mixture” of 10/1 (g / g).

The pause time of 1 hour, on a hot plate set at 40 ° C.

At the end of the pause time, the locks are rinsed and then dried under a helmet at 40 ° C.

The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta CM3600D spectrocolorimeter (illuminant D65, anglelO ⁰ ).

In this L * a * b * system, the three parameters respectively designate the clarity (L *), a * indicates the green / red color axis and b * the blue / yellow color axis.

The variation or the importance of the lightening between the strands of untreated hair and the strands of hair after treatment is defined by the parameter DE * and is calculated according to the following equation:

DE * = ^ (L * -L _o *) ² + (a * -a0 *) ² + (b * -b0 *) ² (i)

In this equation, the parameters L *, a * and b * represent the values measured on the locks of hair after lightening and the parameters L _o *, ao * and bo * represent the values measured on the locks of untreated hair. The higher the value of DE *, the better the lightening of the keratin fibers

composition pH composition applied L * at* b * OF* /hair no cleared up Hair reference natural pigmented no cleared HT4 20.04 2.92 3.62 87.5 grams of composition with 12.5 grams of water AT 9.2 39.7 9.92 23.11 28.86

oxygenated (50%) (20 volumes final) 40 ° C + 1 gr of potassium persulfate 87.5 grams of composition with 12.5 grams of hydrogen peroxide (at 50%) (20 final volumes) 40 ° C + 5 gr of potassium persulfate AT 9.2 42.35 10.3 25 32.08 D 8.6 32.35 9.27 16.93 19.77 E 9.2 33.69 10.02 18.87 22.22 81.25 grams of composition with 18.75 grams of hydrogen peroxide (50%) (30 final volumes) 40 ° C + 5 gr of potassium persulfate B 8.8 45.67 10.22 26.89 35.57 VS 8.5 44.28 11.01 27.17 35.03

The pKa of asparagine is 8.8, the compositions according to the invention lead to very good levels of discoloration, at pHs close to 9 and this with a low content of persulfate.

Example 2:

The following lightening compositions are prepared from the following ingredients in the following proportions indicated in grams:

compo F invention compo G invention compo H invention Tris (hydroxymethyl) aminomethane 5 4 5 Sodium bicarbonate 2 Sodium polytriphosphate 4 5 potassium pyrophosphate 6 Water 15 25 35 isoDodecane 15 15 15 Benzyl alcohol 2 1 l- (2-butoxy-l- methylethoxy) propan-2-ol 2.8 17 5 Laureth-2 4 Sodium laureth sulfate 26% ai in water 45 32.5 30 Phosphoric acid solution Qsp pH 9.7 Qsp pH 9.7 Qsp pH 9.7

The lightening compositions F to H are mixed with hydrogen peroxide and a parsley and then applied to locks of natural Caucasian pigmented hair of tone height 4 (HT4),

The “mixture / wick” bath ratio is 10/1 (g / g) respectively.

The pause time of 1 hour, on a hot plate set either at 33 ° C or 40 ° C. At the end of the pause time, the locks are rinsed and then dried under a helmet at 40 ° C.

The color of the locks was evaluated in the CIE L * a * b * system using a Minolta CM3600D spectrocolorimeter.

composition pH composition applied L * at* b * OF* /hair no cleared up Reference natural hair pigmented not thinned HT4 20.04 2.92 3.62 87.5 grams of composition with 12.5 grams of hydrogen peroxide (at 50%) (20 final volumes) 40 ° C + 5 gr of persulfate F 9.15 50.24 8.02 24.02 37.28 G 9.1 41.93 10.54 25.58 32.45 H 9.2 46.21 10.25 27.64 36.79

potassium

All the examples lead to levels of discoloration with very little persulfate.

Claims (27)

1. Composition for lightening keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, comprising: (a) hydrogen peroxide; (b) one or more organic amine (s) chosen from alkanolamines, oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylenated ethylenediamines, amino acids and their derivatives, amines comprising at least one guanidine group and the polyamines of formula (I) below : Rx Rz \ / nw-n „/ \ ^R y Rt (i) in which W is a C 1 -C 6 alkylene radical optionally substituted by a hydroxyl group or a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical; Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical, and their salts, (c) one or more derivatives polyphosphorus compounds preferably chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms linked to each other covalently by at least one linker L comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom, in a content total greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition; (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s); said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s). 2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the hydrogen peroxide represents from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, and more preferably from 2 to 15% by weight, by relative to the total weight of the composition. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that d) the peroxygenated salt (s) is / are not chosen from ammonium salts, and preferably is / are chosen from persulfates, perborates of alkali metals, such as potassium, sodium; magnesium peroxide; and their mixtures, preferably among persulfates and even more preferably, among alkali metal persulfates, preferably sodium and / or potassium persulfates, and their mixtures. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the content of peroxygenated salt (s) represents between 0.01 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.05 to 20% by weight, or even more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine (b) is chosen from alkanolamines such as mono-, di- or tri-alkanolamines, comprising one to three hydroxyalkyl radicals, identical or no, in C1-C4, in particular monoethanolamine, diethanolamine,, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-lpropanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl- 1,3-propanediol, 3 amino- 1,2,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, trishydroxymethylamino-methane. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine (b) is chosen from amino acids, their derivatives and their salts such as aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine , arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine, cysteine, glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, proline, serine, taurine threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine, valine and taurine, preferably asparagine, threonine, methionine, tyrosine, sulfur-containing amino acid derivatives such as taurine, amino acid dipeptides such as glycylglycine, amino acid tripeptides such as glycylglycylglycine and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine (b) is chosen from amino acids or an amino acid derivative having a pKa (pKa of the amine function) less than or equal to 9.5. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine has a pKa of less than or equal to 9.5. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine (s) represent (s) from 0.01% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the lightening composition and again more preferably from 0.1% to 15% and better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more additional alkaline agent (s) distinct from the organic amines, preferably chosen from (bi) carbonates, preferably of alkali or alkaline earth metals, and their mixtures; preferably from the (bi) carbonates of K or Na. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) are chosen from linear or cyclic compounds comprising at least two phosphorus atoms linked together so covalent with at least one L linker comprising at least one oxygen atom and / or at least one carbon atom. 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) comprises at least two groups chosen from a group -P (R) (= O) -OH, a group P (R) (= 0) -0 M, a group> P (= O) -OH and / or a group> P (= 0) -0 M with: • M representing a cationic counter ion, preferably chosen from alkali metals, alkaline earth metals, • R representing a hydroxy group, a group —O ′ M, with M representing a cationic counter ion, preferably chosen from alkali metals , alkaline earth metals, a (Ci-Ce) alkyl, (Ci-C6alkoxy, cycloalkyloxy, (hetero) aryloxy) group, and> representing the two bonds linked to the phosphorus atom and forming part of a ring. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) is / are chosen from the compounds belonging to any one of the formulas (I), ( II) and (III) below; or their mixtures (I) (Π) (III) as well as their solvates, such as hydrates; with - n ranging from 2 to 10 preferably from 2 to 6 better from 2 to 3; - m ranging from 2 to 10 preferably from 2 to 6; Y representing an alkyl chain comprising at least one phosphorus atom and optionally one or more hetero atoms different from phosphorus, or a carbon-containing cyclic radical optionally comprising one or more heteroatoms, said hydrocarbon radical being substituted by one or more groups comprising one or more atoms phosphorus; M or M ’representing a hydrogen atom, an alkali metal or an alkaline earth metal; representing a single bond when M or M ’is H or an ionic bond. 14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphosphorus derivative (s) is / are chosen from: inorganic polyphosphorus derivatives chosen from: o pyrophosphates, preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate, decahydrate; o hexametaphosphate, preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium hexametaphosphate; o tripolyphosphates; preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodium tripolyphosphate; o trimetaphosphates, preferably in the form of salts, preferably alkali metal salts, hydrated or not, such as sodiumtrimetaphosphate; o and their mixtures; - and organic polyphosphorus derivatives, preferably chosen from: o organic polyphosphate derivatives, such as polyphosphoric acids and / or their salts such as phytic acid (also called myo-inositol hexaphosphoric acid), o organic polyphosphonate derivatives, such as polyphosphonic acids and / or their salts such as EDTMP, DETMP, ATMP, HEDP, DTPMP, and mixtures thereof; - and their mixtures. 15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphosphorus derivative (s) is / are chosen from: - the inorganic polyphosphate derivatives chosen from pyrophosphates of alkali metal hydrated or not, such as sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate; and polyphosphates, such as sodium hexametaphosphate, sodium polyphosphate, sodium tripolyphosphate, sodium trimetaphosphate; and their mixtures; - the organic polyphosphorus derivatives chosen from polyphosphoric acids and / or their salts such as phytic acid (also called myo-inositol hexaphosphoric acid), polyphosphonic acids and / or their salts, such as EDTMP, DETMP, ATMP, HEDP, DTPMP, and mixtures thereof; and their mixtures; preferably from inorganic polyphosphate derivatives. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphosphorus derivative (s) is / are chosen from inorganic polyphosphate derivatives, preferably from hydrated alkali metal pyrophosphates or no, preferably from sodium pyrophosphate, potassium pyrophosphate, sodium pyrophosphate decahydrate, and mixtures thereof. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the polyphosphorus derivative (s) are present in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 20% by weight of the weight of the lightening composition containing them, preferably 0.55% to 15% by weight, better from 0.7 to 12% by weight, and better still from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more surfactant (s), preferably chosen from anionic and / or nonionic surfactants. 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty substances, preferably non-silicone, preferably chosen from hydrocarbons of more than 16 carbon atoms, C6-C6 alkanes , oils or triglycerides of vegetable origin, synthetic liquid triglycerides, fatty alcohols, fatty acid and / or fatty alcohol esters other than triglycerides and non-silicone waxes, or mixtures thereof, preferably chosen (s ) from hydrocarbons with more than 16 carbon atoms, such as petrolatum oil, paraffin oil, and polydecenes; liquid fatty alcohols such as octyldodecanol, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or liquid fatty alcohols, or mixtures thereof; preferably from hydrocarbon oils. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substance (s) represent from 5 to 80% by weight, more preferably from 10 to 80% by weight, preferably from 15 to 75% by weight, better still from 20 to 70% by weight, even more advantageously from 25 to 60% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises one or more liquid organic solvents, preferably chosen from alcohol ethers, aliphatic esters, aliphatic ethers, aromatic ethers, alkanols with aryl substituents, the lactones and their mixtures, preferably chosen from propylene glycol derivatives and aromatic alcohols, and their mixtures, preferably benzyl alcohol and / or propylene glycol n-butyl ether, preferably in a content total varying from 0.1 to 35% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, better still from 0.5 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the pH is less than or equal to 11, preferably less than or equal to 10, better still less than or equal to 9.7, preferably the pH varies from 6 to 11 , preferably from 6 to 10, preferably from 6 to 9.7. 23. Method for lightening keratin materials, preferably keratin fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, in which the composition as defined according to any one of the keratin materials, preferably fibers, is applied. previous claims. 24. Lightening method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 22 is obtained from the mixture of at least two compositions, and in particular from two compositions: - a composition (A) comprising (a) one or more oxidizing agents as described above, and a composition (B) comprising (b) one or more organic amine (s) as defined above and (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s) as defined above and (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives as defined above, such that the content of polyphosphorus derivatives (c) of the lightening composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of the compositions (A) + (B) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, the said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from the said peroxygenated salts. 25. Lightening method according to claim 23 characterized in that the composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 22 is obtained from the mixture of at least three compositions: - a composition (A) comprising (a) hydrogen peroxide; a composition (B) comprising (d) one or more peroxygenated salt (s), and - a composition (C) comprising (b) one or more organic amine (s) as defined above, and (c) one or more polyphosphorus derivatives as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 22 said polyphosphorus derivative (s) being distinct from said peroxygenated salt (s), and such that the total content of polyphosphorus derivatives of the lightening composition according to the invention resulting from the mixture of compositions (A) + (B) + (C) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition,. 26. Multi-compartment device comprising at least a first compartment containing the composition (A) as defined in claim 24 and at least one second compartment containing the composition (B) as defined in claim 24, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing, so that the content of c) polyphosphorus derivative (s) as defined according to any one of the preceding claims of the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions (A) + (B) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of the formulation resulting from the mixture of (A) + (B). 27. Device with several compartments comprising at least one 5 first compartment containing the composition (A) as defined in claim 24 and at least one second compartment containing the composition (B) as defined in claim 24, and optionally a third compartment containing the composition C as defined in the claim 24, the compositions of the compartments being intended to be 10 mixed before application, to give the formulation after mixing, so that the content of c) polyphosphorus derivative (s) as defined in any one of the preceding claims of the composition resulting from the mixture of the compositions ( A) + (B) + (C) is greater than or equal to 0.5% by weight relative to the weight of the formulation obtained from the mixture of (A) + (B) + (C).