FR3018449A1 - COSMETIC USE OF A MIRABILIS JALAPA EXTRACT, ACTIVE INGREDIENT AND CORRESPONDING COSMETIC COMPOSITION - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention proposes the use of a Mirabilis Jalapa extract for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin, an active ingredient and a cosmetic composition corresponding thereto. The extract is preferably obtained by alcohol extraction of the aerial parts of the plant. The Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the overproduction of Nerve Growth Factor (NGF) and the TRPV1 receptor, to thicken the epidermis and to improve the barrier function of the stratum corneum.

Description

The invention relates to a use of a plant extract for a cosmetic treatment, as well as to a cosmetic active ingredient and a cosmetic composition containing it for this use. The cosmetics industry is in increasing demand for new products, particularly in the demand for new active ingredients that are derived from plants because they make it possible to combine the effectiveness, the limitation of the risks of irritation and allergy, the reduction of side effects, the biodegradability, with the possibilities of labeling / certifications and of adequacy with a logic of sustainable development and / or fair trade. More particularly, the invention is directed to a cosmetic treatment of sensitive (or so-called hyper-reactive) skins.

The skin is a very innervated organ since there is an average of 1 cm 'of skin 10 hairs and 12 nerve endings. If the cellular bodies of the nerves are deeply buried in ganglions, their very long extensions, the axons, reach the dermis from which they rise perpendicularly towards the surface of the skin, passing between the cells of the epidermis. At the level of the nerve endings, almost at the surface of the skin, these cells lack a protective lipid sheath, which puts them in full contact with their immediate environment consisting of epidermal keratinocytes. These play an important role in increasing or decreasing the level of activation of the nerve endings to external stimuli. The purpose of nerve endings is to transmit physico-chemical information from the environment to the brain. This organization allows the individual to be notified immediately of variations in his environment. Once warned, the nervous system sets in motion a variety of defense systems, the simplest of which is the removal of danger. The sensory response is a mechanism that allows external stimuli to trigger an action potential in the nerve cells that propagates along the nerve fibers to the body of the cell where it is treated. This in turn generates a reaction. These stimuli can act directly on the nerve endings by stimulating them or indirectly on the neighboring keratinocytes, which in return send signals towards the nerve endings, to excite them. At the molecular level a family of receptors is particularly involved in the sensitive response, TRPV. TRPV-1 are the most concerned in the sensitization reaction of the skin. They are expressed in nerve cells, but also in keratinocytes.

In response to a stimulus, TRPV-1 receptors are activated on the surface of nerve endings This activation is the starting point of the sensitive response. In the keratinocyte, the activation of TRPV-1, in response to a stimulus, will result in the release of NGF "Nerve Growth Factor" into the extracellular medium. This mediator will bind to the nerve endings and will trigger the synthesis of TRPV1 in the nerve cell, increasing the sensitivity of the nerve cell to external stimuli.

In sensitive skin, this mechanism is out of order; it is racing, leading to an overproduction of epidermal NGF, which will itself lead to an overproduction of TRPV1 receptors. And, it is this overproduction and subsequently the excitation of TRPV1 in excessive amount that is causing the symptoms of sensitive skin.

One of the objectives of the cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin is therefore to lower the keratinocyte production of these two molecules (NGF and TRPV1). In addition to TRPV1, the TRPV4 receptor is also involved in cutaneous sensitivity. It is sensitive to osmotic pressure variations, mechanical stress and temperatures close to 33 ° C. Its activation causes a calcium flux in the keratinocyte, which will promote its differentiation and the formation of the horny envelope (stratum corneum). Moreover, thanks to its effect on calcium, TRPV4 strengthens the tight bonds between keratinocytes, which is a key element in the efficacy of the cutaneous barrier. Unlike TRPV-1, the TRPV-4 receptor is therefore positively involved. in the treatment of sensitive skin and we will seek to promote its expression.

In the skin, moreover, the epidermis constitutes a protective barrier between the body and the environment. Keratinocytes constitute the essential part of the epidermis; by differentiating, they produce in the upper part the stratum corneum, a complex, dense assemblage of cell bodies and semi-permeable lipids. This stratum corneum forms an effective barrier against aggressive agents by buffering them and the rest of the skin. The modification of the homeostasis of this layer therefore leads to more or less serious inconvenience and facilitates the penetration of aggressive agents, which can interact more easily with keratinocytes and nerve cells according to the mechanism described above. This weakening of the barrier is observed in people with sensitive skin. In our entire population, the sensitive skin profile is far from being a rarity, it concerns both sexes, although women are a little more affected than men. All skin types are affected: very oily to oily, mixed, dry to very dry. This skin dysfunction is an important issue for the cosmetics industry, especially since it seems to be increasing. Sensitive skin is described as being more reactive than normal skin, with exaggerated reactions to external stimuli: hot, cold, wind, water, skin care or hygiene products, clothing rubbing or internal stimuli (cycle menstrual for example). People with sensitive skin report frequent and uncomfortable sensations such as tingling or tingling. It can be born with sensitive skin, as is very often the case for people with light skin, thin and blushing easily. It can also become so because of invasive gestures, repeated or a hygiene "too perfect" not allowing the regeneration of the stratum and damaging the thin protection of the skin. The abuse of the sun, lasers and peels also contribute to irritate, attack, de-lipid the protective layer that represents the stratum corneum. Sensitive skins tend to have: - on the one hand a thinner stratum corneum, more damaged, with reduced corneocyte surfaces, a change in intercellular lipids with fewer ceramides. These factors will cause a greater permeability of the skin vis-à-vis the aggressive agents; - On the other hand a higher density of nerve fibers which is accompanied by an increase in the basal level of NGF and TRPV1 receptors in the upper part of the epidermis where the keratinocytes are in contact with the nerve endings.

It is therefore appropriate for this type of sensitive skin to provide an active ingredient capable of: - reinforcing the protective capacity of the epidermis, by thickening and improving the barrier function of the stratum corneum; and - to lower the production of NGF and TRPV1, responsible for the runaway of the sensitive response.

The present invention aims to respond to this request. Extracts of Mirabilis jalapa have already been proposed in cosmetics. The document FR2818141 describes the use of an aqueous extract of Mirabilis jalapa in cosmetics as anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and to combat cutaneous dryness. JP63192705 discloses a Peruvian Wonder extract for treating chapped skin.

JP03220129 discloses an inhibitory effect of sebum production for an extract of Mirabilis jalapa. Mirabilis jalapa is an ornamental plant also called Peruvian Wonder or Belle de Nuit. Originally from Peru and first established in Spain, it is now possible to find in many parts of the world because it is both highly sought after and very resistant.

The present invention provides the use of an extract of the plant Mirabilis jalapa for the non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin. The tests presented below show that an extract of Mirabilis jalapa can be used to prevent and / or correct excessive sensitivity of the skin, by the decrease of the molecules which are at the origin (overproduction of Nerve Growth Factor (NGF) and TRPV1), thickening of the epidermis and improvement of the barrier function of the stratum corneum. By "extract" is meant according to the invention an extract of plant or parts of plant obtainable by the usual extraction techniques. As examples, the usual extraction techniques that can be used include maceration, simple decoction, leaching, extraction under reflux, extraction by supercritical fluid, extraction by means of ultrasound or micro and the techniques of countercurrent extraction. The extraction solvents may be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, PEG-6 Caprylic / capric glycerides, polyethylene glycol, methyl and / or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyols ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols, alcohols (methanol, ethanol, propanol, butanol), or any mixture of these solvents.

The invention also covers an extract obtained by in vitro plant culture. Various techniques exist including, in particular, undifferentiated cell culture, tissue or organ culture or in vitro micropropagation by somatic embryogenesis or by vegetative propagation. The obtaining of an extract by plant culture has advantages on the agro-industrial way (cultivation of plants in the field and subsequent extraction in the factory): the materials obtained are free of toxic substances (herbicides etc.), the reproducibility is better, biodiversity is preserved, etc. All parts of the plant, including aerial, such as leaves, stems, flowers or seeds or roots, can be used according to the invention. According to other particular characteristics, the application is topical; and / or Mirabilis jalapa extract is an extract derived from the aerial parts of the plant; and / or Mirabilis jalapa extract is obtained by alcohol extraction, preferably ethanol; and / or the extract is combined with a physiologically acceptable excipient; and / or the extract is a dry residue (obtained after removal of the extraction solvent) re-dissolved in said excipient, preferably comprising at least one short hydrocarbon-based alcohol; and / or - the% dry residue of the extract is between 0.00015 and 1.5%. More preferably, the extract is derived from the aerial parts of the plant and manufactured according to the following method: Grinding the aerial parts of the plant; Hot alcoholic extraction; Evaporation of the alcohol; and recovering the dry residue by a cosmetic excipient, in particular a mixture of short chain alcohols (s). The present invention also provides a cosmetic active ingredient for cosmetic use according to the invention for the treatment of sensitive skin, comprising an effective amount of a Mirabilis jalapa extract obtained by alkaline extraction, preferably ethanol. More preferably, the extract of Mirabilis jalapa is obtained by hot alcohol extraction, removal of the alcohol to obtain a dry residue and dissolution of said residue in a physiologically acceptable excipient.

The present invention also covers a composition comprising, as an active ingredient in the treatment of sensitive skin, an effective amount of a Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention in a physiologically acceptable medium. According to other advantageous characteristics, the Mirabilis jalapa extract can be used in combination with one or more additional active ingredients, advantageously making it possible to offer a wider range of cosmetic properties. The additional active ingredients may be for example chosen from lightening, pro-pigmenting, anti-redness, anti-stain, soothing agents, UV sunscreens, moisturizing, moisturizing, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging and anti-wrinkle active ingredients. and fine lines, improving the mechanical and elastic properties, the radiance of the complexion, the detoxifying active agents, anti-hair regrowth, anti-acne, acting on the secretion of sebum, mattifying, unifying, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-radical, anti-glycation agents, eye contours (anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness), promoting blood circulation, peptides, vitamins, etc. These active ingredients can be obtained from plant materials, such as plant extracts or vegetable or fermentation products.

More specifically, the extract of Mirabilis jalapa can be combined with at least one of the compounds selected from vitamin B3 compounds, compounds such as niacinamide or tocopherol, retinoid compounds such as retinol, hexamidine, and α-lipoic acid, resveratrol or DHEA, peptides, especially N-acetyl-Tyr-Arg-O-hexadecyl, Pal-VGVAPG, Pal-KTTKS, PalGHK, Pal-KMO2K and Pal-K GQPR, which are conventional active ingredients used in topical cosmetic or dermo-pharmaceutical compositions. The CTFA ("International cosmetic ingredient dictionary & handbook" (13th Ed. 2010) published by "The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, Inc.", Washington, DC) describes a wide variety, without limitation, of cosmetic ingredients and pharmaceuticals commonly used in the skin care industry, which are suitable for use as additional ingredients in the compositions of the present invention. Other additional skin care actives that are particularly useful can be found in Sederma's commercial literature and at www.sederma.com. The following commercial active agents may also be mentioned as examples: betaine, glycerol, Actimoist Bio 2TM (Active Organics), AquaCacteenTM (Mibelle AG Cosmetics), AquaphylineTM (Silab), AquaregulKTM (Solabia), CarcilineTM (Greentech) ), CodiavelaneTM (Biotech Marine), DermafluxTM (Arch Chemicals, Inc.), Hydra'FlowTM (Sochibo), Hydromoist LTM (Symrise), RenovHyalTM (Soliance), SeamossTM (Biotech Marine), ArgirelineTM (trade name acetyl hexapeptide). 3 of Lipotec), spilanthol or an extract of Acmella oleracea known as Gatuline ExpressionTM, an extract of Boswellia serrata known as BoswellinTM, Deepaline PVBTM (Seppic), Syn-AKETM (Pentapharm), AmelioxTM, BioxiliftTM (Silab ), PhytoCellTecTMArgan (Mibelle), Papilactyl DTM (Silab), PreventheliaTM (Lipotec), SubliskinTM (Sederma), VenuceaneTM (Sederma), Moist 24TM (Sederma), Vegesome Moist 24TM (Sederma), EssenskinTM (Sederma), JuvinityTM (Sederma) , RevidratTM (Sederma), ResistemTM (Sederma), Chronodyn TM (Sederma), KombuchkaTM (Sederma), ChromocareTM (Sederma), CalmosensineTM (Sederma), Glycokin factor STM (Sederma), Biobustyl TM (Sederma), IdealiftTM (Sederma), Ceramide 2TM, Ceramide A2TM and Ceramide HO3TM (Sederma), LeganceTM (Sederma), IntenslimTM (Sederma), ProdiziaTM (Sederma), Beautifeye TM (Sederma), Unsaponifiable Shea Butter (Natural Grade) (Sederma) or mixtures thereof. Among the plant extracts that can be combined with the extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of ivy extracts, for example climbing ivy (Hedera Helix), Bupleurum chinensis, Bupleurum Falcatum, arnica (Arnica Montana L), rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis N), marigold (Calendula officinalis), sage (Salvia officinalis L), ginseng (Panax ginseng), ginko biloba, St. John's wort (Hyperycum Perforatum), bergamot (Ruscus aculeatus L), water lilies (Filipendula ulmaria L), orthosiphon (Orthosiphon Stamincus Benth), algae (Fucus Vesiculosus), birch (Betula alba), green tea, kola nut ( Cola Nipida), horse chestnut, bamboo, Centella asiatica, heather, fucus, willow, pilosella, escin extracts, cangzhu extracts, chrysanthellum indicum extracts of chrysanthellum indicum, plants of the genus Armeniacea, Atractylodis Platicodon, Sinnomenum, Pharbitidis, Flemingia, Coleus such as C. Forskohlii, C. blumei, C. esquirolii, C. scutellaroides, C. xanthantus and C. Barbatus, as a raciness extract of Coleus barbatus, extracts of Ballote, Guioa, Davallia, Terminalia, Barringtonia, Trema, antirobia, cecropia, argania, dioscoreae as Dioscorea opposita or mexico, extracts of Ammi visnaga, Siegesbeckia, in particular Siegesbeckia orientalis, plant extracts of the Ericaceae family, in particular extracts of blueberries (Vaccinium angustifollium) from Arctostaphylos uva ursi , alpe vera, plants containing sterols (including phytosterols), Manjistha (extract of plants of the genus Rubia, in particular Rubia Cordifolia), Guggal (plant extract of the genus Commiphora, in particular Commiphora Mukul), an extract of kola, chamomile, violet clover, Piper methysticum (Kava Kava Sederma), Bacopa monieri (BacocalmineTM, Sederma) and sea whip, Glycyrrhiza glabra, mulberry, melaleuca (tree to tea), Larrea divaricata, Rabdosia rubescens, Euglena gracilis, Fibraurea recisa Hirudinea, Chaparral Sorghum, sunflower, Enantia chlorantha, Mitracarpe of the genus Spermacocea, Buchu barosma, Lawsonia inermis L., Adiantium Capillus-Veneris L., Chelidonium majus, Luffa cylindrical, Japanese Mandarin (Citrus reticulata Blanco var. unshiu), Camelia sinensis, Imperata cylindrical, Glaucium Flavum, Cupressus Sempervirens, Polygonatum multiflorum, loveyly hemsleya, Sambucus Nigra, Phaseolus lunatus, Centaurium, Macrocystis Pyrifera, Turnera Diffusa, Anemarrhena asphodeloides, of Portulaca pilosa, Humulus lupulus, Arabica coffee or Ilex Paraguariensis, Albizzia julibrissin, Oxydendron arboreum, Plantago lanceolata.

The compositions of the present invention may include peptides, including, but not limited to, di-, tri-, tetra-, penta- and hexapeptides and derivatives thereof. According to a particular embodiment, the concentration of the additional peptide in the composition varies between 1 × 10 -7% and 20%, preferably between 1 × 10 -6% and 10%, preferably between 1 × 10 -5% and 5%, by weight. . In the context of the present invention, the term "peptide" refers to peptides containing 10 amino acids or less, their derivatives, isomers and complexes with other species such as a metal ion (eg copper, zinc, manganese, magnesium, and others). The term "peptides" refers to both natural peptides and synthetic peptides. It also refers to compositions which contain peptides and which are found in nature, and / or which are commercially available. Nonlimiting examples of dipeptides that may be used in the context of the present invention include Carnosine (beta-AH), YR, VW, NF, DF, KT, KC, CK, KP, KK or TT. Non-limiting examples of tripeptides include RKR, HGG, GHK, GKH, GGH, GHG, KFK, GKH, KPK, KMOK, KMO2K or KAvaK. Nonlimiting examples of tetrapeptides are RSRK, GQPR or KTFK. A non-limiting example of pentapeptide is KTTKS and hexapeptides GKTTKS and VGVAPG.

Other peptides that may be used in the context of the present invention may be chosen from, without this list being limitative: lipophilic derivatives of peptides, preferably palmitoyl derivatives, and complexes with the metal ions mentioned above (eg copper complex tripeptide HGG). Preferred dipeptides include, for example, N-Palmitoyl-beta-Ala-His, N-Acetyl-Tyr-Arghexadecylester (Calmosensine ™, Idealift ™, Sederma). The preferred tripeptides include N-Pal-Gly-Lys-His, (Pal-GKH, Sederma), the copper derivative of HGG (LaminTM, Sigma), lipospondin (N-Elaidoyl-KFK) and its conservative substitution analogues , N-Acetyl-RKR-NH2 (Peptide CK +), N-Biot-GHK (Sederma), Pal-KMO2K (Sederma) and their derivatives. Tetrapeptide derivatives usable in the context of the present invention include, but are not limited to, NPal-GQPR (Sederma), useful pentapeptide derivatives are, but are not limited to, N-Pal-KTTKS (MATRIXYL ™, Sederma), N-Pal-Tyr-Gly-Gly-Phe-X with X being Met or Leu or their mixture. Useful hexapeptide derivatives include, but are not limited to: N-Pal-VGVAPG and derivatives. We can also mention the mixture Pal-GHK and Pal-GQPR (MatrixylTM 3000, Sederma). Preferred commercially available compositions containing a tripeptide or derivative include Biopeptide-CLTM, MaxilipTM or Sederma BiobustylTM. The preferred commercially available compositions of tetrapeptides include: RIGINTM, Eyeliss ™ Matrixyl ™ Reloaded and Matrixyl 3000 ™, which contain between 50 and 500 ppm of palmitoyl-GQPR and an excipient, provided by Sederma. The following commercial peptides may also be mentioned as additional active ingredients: VialoxTM, Syn-akeTM or Syn-CollTM (Pentapharm), Hydroxyprolisilane CNTM (Exsymol), Argireline TM, LeuphasylTM, AldenineTM, TrylgenTM, EyeserylTM, SerilesineTM or DecorinylTM (Lipotec) , CollaxylTM or QuintescineTM (Vincience), BONT-L-PeptideTM (Infinitec Activos), CytokinolTMLS (Serobiological Laboratories / Cognis), KollarenTM, IP2000TM or MelipreneTM (European Institute of Cell Biology), NeutrazenTM (Innovations), ECM-ProtectTm (Atrium Innovations) ), Timp-PeptideTM or ECM ModulinTM (lnfinitec Activos). The present invention will be better understood and other advantages will become apparent in the light of the detailed description and nonlimiting examples which follow.

Preparation of the compositions By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant according to the present invention, without being limiting, an aqueous or hydroalcoholic solution, a water-in-oil emulsion, an oil-in-water emulsion, a microemulsion, an aqueous gel, an anhydrous gel, a serum, a dispersion of vesicles, a powder. "Physiologically acceptable" means that the compositions are suitable for topical or transdermal use, in contact with the mucous membranes, superficial body growths (nails, hair, hair), scalp and mammalian skin and more particularly human, compositions that can be ingested or injected into the skin, without risk of toxicity, incompatibility, instability, allergic response, and others. This "physiologically acceptable medium" forms what is conventionally called the excipient of the composition. For the use according to the invention, the effective amount of Mirabilis jalapa extract, i.e. its dosage, depends on various factors, such as the age, the condition of the patient's skin, etc. An effective amount means a non-toxic amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect. For use in the treatment of sensitive skin according to the invention, the extract of Mirabilis jalapa, to be present in an effective amount, is generally in proportions of between 0.00015% and 1.5% of the dry residue. . Those skilled in the art are able to adjust the amount of extract depending on the desired effect. All percentages and ratios used in the present invention are by weight of the total composition and all measurements are made at 25 ° C unless otherwise specified.

The choice of the excipient of the composition is made according to the constraints related to the Mirabilis jalapa extract (stability, solubilization, etc.) and, if appropriate, to the pharmaceutical form envisaged subsequently for the composition. The extract of Mirabilis jalapa can be incorporated into a composition by means of conventional physiologically acceptable solubilizers, for example and without limiting to this list: ethanol, propanol, isopropanol, propylene glycol, glycerol, butylene glycol, 1,3 propane diol, or polyethylene glycol or any combination thereof. It may also be advantageous to solubilize the extract using emulsifiers. It is also possible to use a powder support. Preferably, according to the invention, a short chain hydrocarbon alcohol (at most 6 carbons) is used.

Compositions suitable for the present invention are generally prepared by usual methods well known to those skilled in the art of making topical and oral compositions and compositions for injection. Such methods may involve mixing ingredients in one or more steps to achieve a uniform state, with or without heating, cooling, etc. The various galenic forms that may contain the extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention are in any form namely creams, lotions, ointments milks or creams, gels, emulsions, dispersions, solutions, suspensions, cleaners, foundations, anhydrous preparations (sticks in particular lip balm, body and bath oils), shower and bath gels, shampoos and hair care lotions, milks or creams for the care of the skin or hair, lotions or makeup removers sunscreen lotions, lotions, lotions, artificial tanning creams, creams, mousses, gels or lotions for shaving, shaving, or aftershave, make-up, lipsticks, mascaras or nail polish, "essences" of skin, serums, adhesive or absorbent materials, transdermal patches, or powders, lotions, emollient milks or creams, sprays, body and bath oils, foundation bases, ointments, emulsions, colloids compact or solid suspensions, pencils, sprayable formulations, brushable, blushes, reds, eyeliners, lipliners, lip gloss, face or body powders, mousse or styling gels, nail conditioners, lip balms, conditioners skin, moisturizers, lacquers, soaps, exfoliants, astringents, depilatory permanent waving solutions, anti-dandruff formulations, antiperspirant or antiperspirant compositions, including sticks, "roll-on" deodorants, deodorants, sprays for nose and so on. These compositions may also be in the form of sticks for the lips intended either to color or avoid chapped skin, or eye makeup products or makeup and makeup for the face. The compositions according to the invention include beauty products, personal care products and pharmaceutical preparations. It is also possible to envisage a composition in the form of a foam or in the form of an aerosol composition also comprising a propellant under pressure. The compositions according to the invention can also be for oral use, for example a toothpaste. In this case, the compositions may contain adjuvants and additives customary for oral compositions and in particular surfactants, thickeners, humectants, polishing agents such as silica, various active ingredients such as fluorides, particularly sodium fluoride, and optionally sweetening agents sum sodium saccharinate.

The extract of Mirabilis jalapa in the context of the present invention may be used in solution, dispersion, emulsion, paste or powder form, individually or in premix or be conveyed individually or premixed with vectors such as macrocapsules, microcapsules or nanocapsules, macrospheres, microspheres, or nanospheres, liposomes, oleosomes or chylomicrons, macroparticles, microparticles or nanoparticles, macroeponges, microeponges or nanoepongs, microemulsions or nanoemulsions, or adsorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites, spores or exines and other inorganic or organic substrates.

The extract of Mirabilis jalapa in the context of the present invention can be used in any form, in a bound form, incorporated or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or on macro-, micro- and nanocapsules for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, wool, and any material intended to come into contact with the skin and which may be used in clothing, night or daywear, handkerchiefs, or the tissues, in order to exert its cosmetic effect through this skin / textile contact and to allow a continuous topical delivery. The present invention also proposes a topical treatment method for the treatment of sensitive skin, comprising the topical application of an effective amount of a composition according to the invention comprising an extract of Mirabilis jalapa as defined above. above. By "topical treatment" is meant an application that is intended to act at the place where it is applied: skin, mucosa, dander. Improvements in the appearance and general condition of the sensitive skin can be achieved by topical application on a regular basis such as daily. The practitioner will appreciate the cosmetic topical treatment which will comprise a composition containing the extract Mirabilis jalapa, this treatment can be carried out for example by applying topically the composition described in the present invention, according to a technique usually used to apply such a composition. The topical composition is preferably applied once daily for a period of at least one week, but may be applied for periods of 2, 4, 8 or 12 weeks. The topical composition is preferentially applied to the face and the neck, but may be applied to any part of skin requiring treatment, where the composition remains on the skin area to be treated, and preferably is not removed or rinsed from the skin . For example, for a cosmetic facial treatment, the European Cosmetics Directive has set a standard application amount of a cream of 2.72 mg / cm2 / day / person and for a lotion for the body of 0.5 mg / cm2 / day / person. It should also be understood that, as used herein, the terms treat and treat include and include the reduction, amelioration, progression, alleviation, and / or elimination of undesirable effects of sensitive skin. The compositions of the present invention as well as the methods are suitable for use in treating dermatological conditions of the skin in many areas of the skin, including but not limited to, the face, forehead, lips, neck, neck cleavage, arms, hands, body, legs, knees, feet, chest, back, buttocks, and others.

One of the great advantages of the present invention resides in the possibility of being able to proceed, whenever necessary or desirable, to localized and selective "soft" treatments thanks to the mode of application by topical, non-invasive methods. An application can be made very localized using a syringe or a microcannula. It is also possible to envisage a composition according to the invention intended to be injected subcutaneously.

According to other particularities, the cosmetic treatment method according to the invention may be associated with one or more other treatment methods aimed at the skin, such as, for example, treatments by light therapy, by heat or by aromatherapy. According to the invention, it is possible to propose devices with several compartments or kits intended for the implementation of the method described above, and which could include, by way of example, and without being limiting, in a first compartment containing a composition containing the extract of Mirabilis jalapa and in a second compartment a composition containing another active ingredient and / or excipient, the compositions contained in said first and second compartments being here considered as a combination composition for simultaneous, separate or spread over time in particular in one of the treatments defined above.

A) Example of obtaining a Mirabilis ialapa extract that can be used in the context of the invention A hot extraction under reflux of the aerial parts (stems and crushed leaves) of Mirabilis jalapa is carried out using a alcohol or a mixture of alcohols, preferably ethanol After filtration and removal of the alcohol, the dry residue is taken up by a cosmetic excipient (physiologically acceptable) short chain alcohols type (such as butylene) glycol); preferably 0.5% of the dry residue in a mixture of diols. The extract thus obtained (at 0.5% dry residue) can be used as an active ingredient in a pharmaceutical formulation. It is this extract that is used in the in vitro and in vivo evaluations as well as in the galenic formula below (paragraph C).

B) In Vitro Evaluations The advantage of the cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin according to the invention with an extract of Mirabilis jalapa is illustrated by the in vitro tests given below. 1. Moderation of factors causing sensitive skin a. Synthesis of NGF by keratinocytes under stress.

Too much NGF production is partly responsible for sensitive skin. Released by the keratinocyte, it will induce at the nerve terminal an overproduction of TRPV1 receptors. The activation of these numerous receptors by external stimuli triggers the symptoms of sensitive skin (tingling, itching ...). It is therefore advantageous to limit the production of NGF.35. Protocol Human keratinocytes (KH) in culture have been brought into contact with TNF-alpha, an agent that stimulates the production of NGF, and extract of Mirabilis jalapa (cf. A above) for 24 hours. At the end of this contact, the concentration of NGF produced by the cells was evaluated by ELISA in the culture media and reduced to the number of cells. Results Table 1: Modulation of NGF Production by KH Treated with TNF-Alpha Effect of Mirabilis Jalapa Extract According to the Invention Variation in NGF Number Variation (%) of Cells (%) (pg / mL / 106 cell.) TNF-alpha Reference 1,560 ± 0.443 Reference TNF-alpha + 0.6% Mirabilis jalapa extract -4.6%, dns 1,062 ± 0.171 -32%; p <0.05 TNF-alpha + 1.2% Mirabilis jalapa extract -5.7%, 0.792 ± 0.223% -49%; p <0.01 TNF-alpha increases the release of NGF. The application of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention at the same time as TNF-a makes it possible to reduce this release in a dose-dependent manner down to -49.2% (p <0.01). The extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention decreases the release of NGF at the level of the keratinocyte. b. Synthesis of TRPV1 by skin explants under stress.

TRPV1 is the key receptor for sensitive skin. In too large a quantity it will cause a disproportionate, too strong sensory response, causing the symptoms of sensitive skin. Moreover, in the keratinocyte its activation triggers the release of NGF. We also have an interest in limiting the production of TRPV1. Protocol Cutaneous explants (female, 28 years, breast) were kept alive in their culture medium. They were then placed in contact with Substance P, a neuron-mediated pain mediator, and received a 3% cream of Mirabilis jalapa extract (as described in the following point C of the description), or a placebo cream (same cream without the active ingredient of the invention) for 24 hours (n = 4). At the end of this contact the skins were prepared and cut, the skin sections thus obtained were immuno-labeled with an antibody directed against TRPV1. 40 photos per case (10 per sample) were used to measure fluorescence intensities and quantify effects.

Results Table 2: Modulation of the Expression of TRPV1 by Explants Treated with Substance P - Effect of the Mirabilis Jalapa Extract According to the Invention TRPV1 (UFA) Variation (%) Placebo Cream 18.8 ± 1.42 Reference Cream with 3% Mirabilis extract jalapa 16.7 ± 1.65 -11.2%; p <0.01 UFA: arbitrary fluorescence unit.

The extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the expression of TRPV1 linked to stress. It results from this effect a lower sensitivity to stress. vs. Synthesis of TRPV1 by keratinocytes under stress. Protocol Normal human keratinocytes in culture were brought into contact with Mirabilis jalapa extract for 24 h, then H202-based oxidative stress was applied and the residual effect on TRPV1 was evaluated by ELISA after 24 h. The result is reduced to the number of cells. Results Table 3: Modulation of the production of TRPV1 by KH treated with H202; effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention Variation in the number of TRPV1 Variation (%) cells (%) (ng / ml / 106 cells) Negative control + 17%, dns 3.90 ± 0.10 Ref. 1 H2O2 Reference 5.20 ± 0.40 + 33.3%; Ref. 2 p <0.02 H 2 O 2 + 1.2% of Mirabilis jalapa extract -1%, dns 3.90 ± 0.20 - -25%; p <0.05 The Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention makes it possible to reduce the production of TRPV-1 caused by oxidative stress. 2. Improvement of the barrier function of the epidermis and stratum corneum a) Production of TRPV4 by skin explants under stress. The TRPV4 receptor is like TRPV1 involved in skin sensitivity. But unlike TRPV1, its activation will have beneficial effects for sensitive skin. By causing a release of calcium in the keratinocyte, it will promote its differentiation and thus participate in the thickening of the stratum corneum. We will therefore seek to increase the production of this receiver. Protocol Cutaneous explants (female, 28 years, breast) were kept alive in their culture medium. They were then placed in contact with Substance P, a neuron-mediated pain mediator, and received a 3% cream of Mirabilis jalapa extract (as described in the following point C of the description), or a placebo cream (same cream without the active ingredient of the invention) for 24 hours (n = 4). At the end of this contact the skins were prepared and cut, the skin sections thus obtained were immuno-labeled with an antibody against TRPV4. 40 photos per case (10 per sample) were used to measure fluorescence intensities and quantify effects. Results Table 4: Modulation of TRPV4 Expression by Explants Treated with Substance P; effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention TRPV4 (UFA) Variation (%) Placebo cream 14.0 ± 2.07 Reference Cream with 3% Mirabilis extract jalapa 16.3 ± 2.74 +16 , 4%; p <0.01 UFA: arbitrary fluorescence unit. The Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention makes it possible to increase the synthesis of TRPV4 by + 17% (p <0.01) on explants of skins treated with substance P. This result reflects a beneficial effect of the extract. of Mirabis jalapa on the thickening of the horny layer. b) tight junctions in an explant of skin: measure of occludine. The tight junctions between the keratinocytes constitute a key element in the effectiveness of the cutaneous barrier. Occludin is a key protein in these tight junctions. We evaluated the effect of Mirabis extract jalapa on the synthesis of this molecule. Protocol Cutaneous explants (female, 3-lamb, breast) were kept alive in their culture medium. They were then placed in contact with a cream containing 3% Mirabilis jalapa extract (as described in the following point C of the description), or a placebo cream (same cream without the active ingredient of the invention). ), for 6 days (n = 4). At the end of this contact the skins were prepared and cut, the skin sections thus obtained were immuno-labeled with an antibody directed against occludin. 40 photos per case were used to measure the fluorescence intensities and quantify the effects. Results Table 5: Modulation of occludin formation in explants; effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention. Occludine (UFA) Variation (%) Placebo cream 12.7 ± 3.34 Reference Cream with 3% Mirabilis jalapa extract 15.6 ± 3.64 + 22.8%; p <0.01 UFA: arbitrary fluorescence unit The Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention promotes the synthesis of one of the key proteins of the tight junctions, occludin, on a skin explant, which contributes to strengthening the cohesion of the epidermis. c) tight junctions in a culture of KH: measurement of occludin. Protocol Normal human keratinocytes in culture were brought into contact with the Mirabilis jalapa extract for 72 hours and then the cells were fixed and immuno-labeled with an antibody directed against occludin. The result is reduced to the number of cells. Results Table 6: Modulation of occludin production by KH (n = 4); effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention. Variation of occludin Variation (%) Number of (UFA / 106 cells) Cells (%) Negative control Reference 0.069 ± 0.043 Reference 0.6% Mirabilis jalapa extract -19% * 0.115 ± 0.052 + 66.7% ; p <0.01 1.2% Mirabilis jalapa extract -22% * 0.143 ± 0.097 + 107.2%; p <0.01 * No toxicity was noted with respect to control; the decrease in the number of cells comes from the formation of differentiated cells (thus non-proliferative cells) and sometimes without nuclei, this reflects the positive effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract on the formation of the barrier. The extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention stimulates the synthesis of one of the key proteins of the tight junctions, occludin, in a KH culture. d) Synthesis of ceramides on explants The stratum corneum forms a barrier against harmful external agents. In this perspective, the lipid layer formed with 50% ceramides is essential and particularly effective. It helps to improve the barrier in sensitive skin. We sought the effect of Mirabis extract jalapa on the synthesis of ceramides. Protocol Cutaneous explants (female, 3 lambs, breast) were kept alive in their culture medium. They were then placed in contact with a cream containing 3% Mirabilis jalapa extract (as described in the following point C of the description), or a placebo cream (same cream without the active ingredient of the invention). ), for 6 days (n = 4). At the end of this contact the skins were prepared and cut, the skin sections thus obtained were immuno-labeled with an antibody directed against a ceramide precursor. 40 photos per case (10 per sample) were used to measure fluorescence intensities and quantify effects.

Results Table 7: Modulation of the synthesis of ceramides in explants; effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention. Ceramides (UFA) Variation (%) Placebo cream 14.2 ± 2.98 Reference Cream with 3% Mirabilis jalapa extract 17.2 ± 4.92 + 21.1%; p <0.05 UFA: arbitrary fluorescence unit The Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention promotes the synthesis of ceramides. e) Synthesis of Ceramides on subjects with sensitive skin (ex-vivo). Protocol Adhesives were applied to the skin of volunteers with sensitive skin (N = 20) in order to harvest their corneocytes (stripping) at TO and then after 2 months of applying a cream containing 3% Mirabilis extract. jalapa (as described in the following point C of the description), or a placebo cream (same cream without the active ingredient of the invention). Immunolabelling of a ceramide precursor was performed on these adhesives and photographs were made to evaluate the levels of markings (12photos / adhesives / volunteer). Results Table 8: Modulation of ceramide synthesis on sensitive skin subjects; effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention. Ceramides Placebo 3% of Mirabilis extract jalapa TO T 2 months TO T 2 months Mean 1,960 ± 1,300 1,824 ± 0,900 1,838 ± 1,000 2,640 ± 1,600 Variation (%); Significance vs. TO Ref. -7%, dns Ref. + 44%, p <0.05 Variation (%) and Significance vs. placebo Ref. TO Ref. T2 -6%, dns + 45%, p <0.02 The extract of Mirabis jalapa promotes the synthesis of a ceramide in this ex-vivo system. f) Transglutaminase activity on keratinocytes Transglutaminase is strongly induced during the differentiation of the epidermis in order to bind the proteins produced by the keratinocytes of the granular layer together and which thus form the stratum corneum. The increase in its activity can be followed by a fluorescent probe that serves as a substrate and that binds to the proteins of the cell. Protocol Normal human keratinocytes in culture were placed in contact with Mirabis jalapa extract for 2 days. At the end of this contact, the fluorescence fixed on the cells was measured and compared with that of the control mat. A parallel count of the number of cells made it possible to harmonize the results. Results Table 9: Modulation of transglutaminase activity by KH (n = 6); effect of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention. Transglutaminase Variation (%) (UFA / 106 cell.) Negative control 24812 ± 4654 Reference 0.2% of Mirabis extract jalapa 34751 ± 4968 + 40%; p <0.01 0.6% of Mirabis extract jalapa 39229 ± 2717 + 58%; p <0.01 The Mirabis jalapa extract according to the invention promotes the overall activity of transglutaminase in keratinocyte cultures in a dose-dependent manner. C) Examples of galenic formulations As mentioned above in the description, it goes without saying that different cosmetic formulations can be implemented that can incorporate the active ingredient of the invention. A cream formula is given below as an example. Additional active ingredients, optionally supporting and / or complementing the activity of the active ingredient according to the invention may be added in the appropriate phase of the formulations, depending on their hydrophobic or hydrophilic nature. These ingredients can be of any category depending on their function (s), the place of application (body, face, neck, bust, hands, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, etc.), the desired end effect and the targeted consumer, for example anti-aging, anti-wrinkle, moisturizing, concealer, firming, anti-glycation, slimming, soothing, myo-relaxing, anti-redness, anti-vergetures, etc. Form Cream Product% INCI Name Phase A: aqueous H2O Qsp100 Water Optasense G83 0.30 Carbomer Phase B: fat including surfactants Brij S2-SS- (RB) 0.40 Steareth-2 Brij S10-SO- (RB) 1.20 Steareth-10 Crodafos CES-PA- (RB) 4.00 Cetearyl Alcohol & Dicetyl Phosphate & Ceteth10 Phosphate Crodacol CS90-PA 1.50 Cetearyl Alcohol Laurocapram 2.50 Laurocapram BRB CM 56 2.00 Cyclopentasiloxane & Cyclohexasiloxane Crodamol OSU -LQ- (RB) 4.00 Diethylhexyl Succinate Crodamol GTCC-LQ- (MV) 3.00 Caprylic / Capric Triglyceride Phase C: Humectant and Preservative Glycerin 4.00 Glycerin Octanediol 0.50 Caprylyl Glycol Phase D: Preservative Phenoxyethanol qs Phenoxyethanol Phase E: antifungal potassium sorbate qs Potassium Sorbate Phase F: pH adjustment H2O 4.00 Water NaOH 30% 0.40 Sodium Hydroxide Phase G Active ingredient according to the invention 3.00 Phase H Fragrance 0.10 Fragrance Protocol: weigh phase A and allow to swell without stirring for 30 min. Put phase A to heat at 75 ° C in a water bath. Weigh phase B and heat to 75 ° C in a water bath. Weigh and melt phase C at 45 ° C. Add phase D to phase C, previously cooled. Pour phase D + C into phase A, with stirring. Pour phase B into phase A + C + D, with rapid stirring.

Well homogenize. Extemporaneously, add phase E, well homogenize. Add phase F, mix well. Add phase G, homogenize well. Add phase H, below 35 ° C, mix well. Examples of ingredients that can be added to this cream formula: CENTECELL ™: an anti-redness active ingredient based on an extract of Centella asiatica, marketed by Sederma which protects the blood capillary and the extracellular matrix from oxidative attacks and collagenase; 2% of this ingredient can be added at the end of the formulation before phase H. - NG Birch sap: toning and moisturizing active ingredient marketed by Sederma, based on raw Sap of the birch sapwood. MATRIXYL 3000: anti-wrinkle active ingredient based on peptides marketed by Sederma (WO2005 / 048968) which helps repair the skin damage caused by aging. - MATRIXYL synthe'6: peptide-based anti-wrinkle active ingredient marketed by Sederma (W02010 / 082175) that helps repair skin damage caused by aging. - PRODIZIATM: active ingredient marketed by Sederma that fights the cutaneous signs of fatigue caused by glycation and glycoxidation. As other galenic forms which are particularly advantageous for carrying out the cosmetic treatment according to the invention, mention may be made of: Mask form, with as examples of ingredients that may be added: SEBULESSTm: purifying sebo-regulating ingredient based on Syringa extract vulgaris, which matifies and refreshes the complexion, blurs the imperfections. - YEAST WALLSTm: active ingredient based on cell membranes with a high enzymatic activity, marketed by Sederma, having an anti-seborrhea activity, an effect on the texture and the complexion of the skin and on its suppleness. AQUALANCETm: osmoprotective moisturizing active ingredient marketed by Sederma (WO2009 / 104118) composed of homarine and erythritol. 4% can be added at the end of the formula. Serum form (fluid emulsion), with as examples of ingredients that can be added: - RESISTEMTm: anti-aging ingredient marketed by Sederma (WO2012 / 104774), helping the skin to build its own anti-aging system, based on an extract obtained by cell culture of the plant Globularia cordifolia. - MARUCELLTm: anti-pollution active ingredient, anti-oxidant, marketed by Sederma, based on an extract of Marrubium vulgare. - Unsaponifiable shea butter: with nourishing and protective properties for the treatment of skin damaged by the environment. - VENUCEANETm: active ingredient marketed by Sederma (WO2002 / 066668) which prevents visible signs of photoaging (spots, wrinkles, dryness ...), protects cell structures from damage caused by UV and reinforces the integrity of the skin. Washing lotion form, with as examples of ingredients that can be added: - ECODERMINETm: active ingredient marketed by Sederma to fight skin problems due to microbial imbalance (acne, dryness, itching tendency) by preserving the natural defense mechanism of skin, includes a combination of lactitol and xylitol. - HAIRSPATm: Soothing and moisturizing active ingredient of the scalp marketed by Sederma, also based on lactitol, xylitol and glycerin. Milk form, with as examples of ingredients that can be added: - LEONTOCELLTm: anti-wrinkle active ingredient marketed by Sederma based on extract of Leontopodium alpinum (Edelweiss). - LEGANCETm: anti-aging active ingredient marketed by Sederma, corresponding to an extract of Zingiber zerumbet Smith obtained by supercritical CO2 in a water-soluble excipient and titrated in zerumbone. It is an overall anti-aging ingredient for the legs. It improves their appearance and comfort by reducing water retention, improving microcirculation and refining fat tissue. - INTENSLIMTm: Slimming active ingredient marketed by Sederma. It is a synergistic combination of extracts of Globularia cordifolia obtained by plant cell culture, Zingiber zerumbet Smith titrated in zerumbone and vegetable caffeine obtained by supercritical CO2 extraction.

Form Gel (for example for the eye area, especially sensitive area), with as examples of ingredients that can be added: - EYELISSTm: Active ingredient contours of the eyes (acts especially on dark circles and puffiness) marketed by Sederma, combination of 3 active molecules in solution: hesperidin methyl chalcone, dipeptide VW and lipopeptide Pal-GQPR. - BEAUTIFEYETm: active ingredient marketed by Sederma which is a combination of Albizia julibrissin extract and darutoside extract of Siegesbeckia orientalis, lifts the upper eyelid, reduces crow's feet wrinkles, reduces dark circles and reduces puffiness under the eyes. D) In Vivo Assessments The evaluation of the efficacy in the treatment of sensitive skin of the extract according to the invention was conducted on the face and forearm through the series of clinical tests detailed below. A cream prepared according to point C above was used for these tests. Study 1: sensitive skin by a tingling test ("Stinging test"); Study 2: on the discomfort felt by volunteers with sensitive skin (self-assessment); Study 3: on the effect of the barrier (thickness of the epidermis, size of the corneocytes and regeneration of the epidermis). Principle: A total of 30 women aged 39 years (23 - 54 years) reporting having sensitive skin was included. 21 volunteers were selected for Study 1. 30 volunteers completed a self-evaluation questionnaire for Study 2. 24 volunteers were selected in Study 3. A second skin sensitivity study (Study 2bis) was also performed. performed. Principle for this study 2bis: a panel of 22 women aged 35 years (19 - 50 years), with sensitive skin (validated by a dermatologist) was included. Thus, the effect of the extract according to the invention on the decrease in cutaneous sensitivity was evaluated by: a measurement of cutaneous sensitivity by "Stinging test" (Study 1); and two evaluations of the perceived effect of questionnaires. (Studies 2 and 2bis). The effect of the extract according to the invention on the improvement of the barrier (Study 3) was evaluated by: a measurement of the size of the corneocytes by image analysis on "Stripping"; a measurement of the thickness of the epidermis by confocal microscopy; and a measurement of the cutaneous barrier by VapometerTM The synopsis of the studies can be summarized according to the diagram below: TO T 1 month T 2 months Sensibility (Stinging test) Sensitivity (Stinging test) Cutaneous barrier (Vapometer) Cutaneous barrier (VapometerTm) Epidermis Thickness (VivascopeTm) Epidermis Thickness Corneocyte Size (Stripping) Corneocyte Size (VivascopeTm) (Stripping) Perceived Effect (Self-Evaluation) Perceived Effect (Self-Evaluation) (Studies 2 and 2bis) (Studies 2 and 2bis) 1. Study of sensitive skin - Decreased skin sensitivity. Skin sensitivity, as we have seen, is mainly felt. It is linked to a triggering factor causing tingling, itching, tightness and so on. The study of the reduction of sensibility by the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention was conducted in 3 studies: by inducing an unpleasant sensation with the Stinging test (Study 1) and by means of a self-evaluation by the volunteer under conditions of normal use (Studies 2 and 2bis). a) Perceived sensitivity measured by Stinging test Special inclusion criteria: the volunteers had to have sufficient cutaneous sensitivity, estimated by a specific questionnaire and by a positive Stinging test. A number of parameters were checked during the test (hormonal consistency before and during the test, pre-application on the face of a moisturizer provided, prohibition of certain drugs that can disturb the effects).

Type of study and duration: the study was conducted in single-blind on the face and forearms who received either the cream of 3% Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention or the placebo cream applied in contralateral. The 2 creams were applied in bi-daily massage for 2 months. Statistical studies were performed using Student's t-test or, if needed, a nonparametric Wilcoxon test. In both cases, the two-sided tests were performed on matched series.

For self-evaluation, a Chi-square test was used. Principle: The Stinging test is used to diagnose sensitive skin and to study the soothing effects of cosmetics. This test consists in applying in a standardized way a solution of lactic acid on the nasolabial folds and the cheeks, which induces a tingling of variable intensity according to the volunteers. This tingling is due to the acidity of the product that activates the TRPV1 receptors.

The advantage of this activation is its transient and moderate nature, unlike activation by capcaicin.

A tingling test was performed at TO and then the same test was performed after 2 months of use of the 3% cream of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention or its placebo. Just after the application of the acid, the volunteers noted the sensations felt every minute for 15 minutes, with a grade in 6 points ranging from 0 = nothing to 5 = sharp tingling + strong burning sensations.

The results of this Stinging test show a reduction of the discomfort felt by 30% compared with TO and a clear and significant advantage in favor of the cream containing 3% of the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention compared to the placebo ( -6.8%, p <0.01). The unpleasant sensation of the acid is therefore less perceived thanks to the extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention making the sensation of the volunteer of the zone "sharp tingling" to "slight tingling" or even "slight sensation". b) Sensitivity perceived by self-evaluation questionnaire (Study 2) A self-evaluation questionnaire was completed by 30 volunteers who, under conditions of use, applied for 2 months, the cream to 3% of the extract of Mirabilis jalapa according to the invention or its placebo. The volunteers gave a favorable opinion, unfavorable or indifferent to both products at the end of applications. Table 10: Sensitivity perceived after 2 months of application of the 3% cream according to the invention or a placebo (% of favorable opinions, n = 30 volunteers) According to the invention Placebo skin with less than 77% ** 63 % tightness comfortable skin all 83% ** 67% * less sensitive skin day 67% * 50% ** Very significant variation compared to unfavorable + indifferent opinions; p <0.01 (Chi-square test) * Significant variation compared to unfavorable + indifferent opinions; p <0.1 (Chi-square test) The results of this self-evaluation after use of the two creams show a clear advantage in favor of the cream containing 3% of the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention compared to the placebo. Users thus find their skin significantly more comfortable (83%), less sensitive (67%) and less tugging (77%). c) Sensitivity perceived by questionnaire (Study 2bis) The efficacy of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention was also evaluated on a panel of 22 women, having a skin sensitive to one or more factors. The study method, developed in collaboration with a specialist in neuroscience and sensitive skin, consisted of a questionnaire specific to these skins targeting the relevant criteria including stinging and itching. Each criterion was graded on a scale from 0 to 10.

The study was conducted double-blind on the face; the cream with 3% of the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention or the placebo cream were applied in bi-daily massage for 21 days. The evaluation was performed at TO and T2 'days. These results show a significant soothing effect in favor of the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention. Indeed, on the placebo side, the 3 classic discomforts of sensitive skin do not vary between TO and T21 days (+ 20%, -22% and -13% all insignificant). On the other hand, the use of 3% of the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention makes it possible to significantly reduce tingling of 86% and itching by 80% (respectively p <0.05 and p <0.01). 2. Study of the improvement of the barrier.

Having a deficient barrier is one of the factors that contributes to the emergence of sensitive skin. This may be related to a decrease in the thickness of the epidermis, the size of the corneocytes, poor regeneration capacity following stress. The effect of the ingredient according to the invention on these 3 aspects has been studied. a) Thickness of the epidermis measured by confocal microscopy A finer epidermis is associated with a more sensitive skin. The thickness of the epidermis can be measured in a harmless manner by laser confocal microscopy (Vivascope® 3000, Mavig), a device to see through the skin and study healthy skin or aging. A specific light is emitted through the skin and provides an image by reflecting differently according to the structures encountered (keratin, melanin, collagen). It is thus possible to have a clear image of an ultrafine layer of the skin at a controlled depth which is the equivalent of a biopsy in real time. For this study, regularly spaced vertical acquisitions were performed to image the entire epidermis. The measurement of the thickness of the epidermis (between the end of the stratum corneum and the epidermal floor) was performed on several areas of the same acquisition to increase the accuracy of the measurement. Table 11: Modulation of the thickness of the epidermis after application of a cream to 3% of the Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention or a placebo cream (N = 22 volunteers, measurements in lm). Cream according to the invention Placebo TO T2mois TO T2mois Mean ± Standard deviation 58.2 ± 14.8 64.9 ± 12.8 61.0 ± 12.7 59.7 ± 9.9 Variation vs TO - + 6.7um - -1.3um Variation vs. TO (%) - + 11.5% - -2.1% Significance p = 0.07 dns% variation; significance + 13.6%; vs Placebo p <0.05 The thicknesses thus calculated are in agreement with those of the literature. The study of the results shows us an undeniable benefit on the thickness thanks to the application of the cream according to the invention. At the 2nd month of application of the cream according to the invention, the epidermis is restructured, which leads to an increase in its thickness of + 14%, ie + 41 μm, relative to placebo (significant at p <0.05). ). This difference of 41 μm is similar to that found in the literature to differentiate normal skin from sensitive skin. b) Size of corneocytes measured on Stripping A TO and Tlmois, the corneocytes were harvested on the skin of the volunteers in a standardized manner using adhesives and then were stained with a fluorescent reagent allowing them to be visualized and quantified. surface under a microscope. About 150 corneocytes were quantified by volunteers and by case.

Table 12: Modulation of the size of the corneocytes after application of a cream according to the invention or a placebo cream (N = 24 volunteers, measurements in Wn2). Cream according to the invention Placebo TO Tlmois TO Tlmois Mean 952 ± 41,982 ± 43,966 ± 48,970 ± 44 Variation vs. TO - + 301m2 +4! Lm2% variation vs.TO (%) + 3.2% + 0.4% Significance p <0.01 dns Variation; + 2.8% Significance vs. placebo p <0.05 Physiological scale (*) Variation; + 10% Significance vs. placebo p <0.05 These results show that the surface of the corneocytes increases on average by + 30.7p · m 2 following the application of the cream according to the invention to 3% for 1 month. This increase in size is significantly greater (p <0.05) compared to the stagnation observed after application of a placebo. (*) In order to better understand this result, we can report this increase on a physiological scale which goes from the smallest corneocyte (754tm2 = 0%) to the largest one (1054, m2 = 100%). The variation observed after 1 month of application of the cream according to the invention is then + 10%. c) Regenerative capacity due to stress The measurement of water-insensitive loss (or PIE) is a very good indicator of the barrier quality and its regenerative capacity, which can be evaluated after a slight break in the barrier. help with adhesives.

At TO, the basal PIE was measured using the VapometerTM (Delfin Technologies) and then a series of controlled strippings were performed to cause a slight break in barrier homeostasis. After stabilization of the signal, the increase of the PIE due to this rupture was measured. After two months of application of the cream to 3% of Mirabilis jalapa extract according to the invention or of the placebo cream, a protocol identical to that used at TO was used. This makes it possible to evaluate a possible improvement of the resistance. The forearm was used because the volunteers' faces were too sensitive for this test. Table 13: Variation of the increase of the PIE after stripping - effect of the application of a cream according to the invention or a placebo cream (N = 21 volunteers, measurements in g / m 2 / h).

Ingredient according to the invention Placebo TO T2mois TO T2mois Mean 6.6 ± 5.7 3.6 ± 3.5 6.3 ± 6.8 4.5 ± 2.8 Variation vs TO (g / m2 / h) - -3 - -1.8% variation vs.TO (%) - -44.8% - -28.9% Significance p = 0.05 dns Variation; - -15.9% Significativity vs placebo - p <0.05 These results show that the application of the cream according to the invention clearly improves the regeneration of the damaged barrier. The barrier is indeed more resistant by 45% compared to TO; the cream according to the invention additionally provides an action that is 16% greater (p <0.05) than that of the placebo cream.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Use of a Mirabilis jalapa extract for a non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment of sensitive skin. 2. Use according to claim 1 characterized in that the ex nit Mirabilis jalapa allows - to reduce the overproduction of Nerve Growth Factor (NGF) and the TRPV1 receptor, to thicken the epidermis and to improve the barrier function stratum corneum. 3. Use according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it is topical. 4. Use according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the Mirabilis jalapa extract is an extract from the aerial parts of the plant. 5. Use according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the Mirabilis jalapa extract is obtained by alcohol extraction. 6. Use according to one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract of Mirabilis jalapa is obtained by ethanolic extraction. 7. Use according to one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the extract is combined with a physiologically acceptable excipient. 8. Use according to claim 7, characterized in that the extract is a dry residue redissous in said excipient. 9. Use according to claim 7 or 8, characterized in that said excipient comprises at least one short hydrocarbon chain alcohol. 10. Use according to one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the extract is combined with one or more additional active ingredients selected from lightening active, pro-pigmenting, anti-redness, anti-stain, calming, UV sunscreens, moisturizing active ingredients, moisturizing, exfoliating, smoothing, toning, anti-aging, anti-wrinkle and fine lines, improving mechanical and elastic properties, complexion radiance, detoxifying active ingredients, anti-hair regrowth, anti-aging Acne, acting on the secretion of sebum, mattifying, unifying, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, anti-free radicals, anti-glycation, eye contours (anti-dark circles and anti-puffiness), promoting blood circulation, peptides and vitamins. 11. Use according to one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the% dry residue of the extract is between 0.00015 and 1.5% by weight relative to the total weight of composition comprising said dry residue. . 12. Use according to one of claims 1 to 11, characterized in that the extract of Mirabilis jalapa is used in a form bound, incorporated or adsorbed on macro-, micro-, and nanoparticles, or on macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, for the treatment of textiles, natural or synthetic fibers, wools, and materials intended to come into contact with the skin and which may be used in clothing, day or nightwear, handkerchiefs , or the tissues, in order to exert a cosmetic effect through this skin / textile contact and to allow a continuous topical delivery. 13. The cosmetic active ingredient for cosmetic use according to one of claims 1 to 12, comprising an effective amount of an alcoholic extract of Mirabilis jalapa. 14. Ingredient according to claim 13, characterized in that the extract of 4Mirabilis jalapa is obtained by hot alcohol extraction, removal of the alcohol to obtain a dry residue and dissolution of said residue in a physiologically acceptable excipient. 15. Cosmetic composition for a cosmetic use according to one of claims 1 to 12, comprising at least one cosmetic ingredient according to claim 13 or 14 in a physiologically acceptable excipient.