FR2999925A1 - Cosmetic use of an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora e.g. to prevent and/or treat the cutaneous signs of aging, preferably photo-aging of aged or aging skins, wrinkles, fine lines, cracks, skin thinning, and liver spots - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic use of an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora to prevent and/or treat the cutaneous signs of aging, preferably photo-aging, is claimed. ACTIVITY : Dermatological. MECHANISM OF ACTION : Metalloproteinase type 1 inhibitor.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of cosmetic products, and more particularly to the active ingredients dedicated to act with regard to skin aging and in particular photoaging. The human skin consists of several compartments, three of which cover the whole body, namely a superficial compartment, the epidermis, the dermis and a deep compartment, the hypodermis. By "skin" is meant all of the skin of the body, including the scalp, the mucous membranes, the semi-mucous membranes, and its annexes. By "appendages of the skin" is meant hairs, eyelashes, hair, and nails. More particularly, it is considered in the present invention the skin of the neckline, neck and face, including the skin of the face. The hypoderm consists essentially of a type of cells specialized in the accumulation and storage of fats, the adipocytes. The dermis is a connective tissue made of collagen fibers and elastic fibers as well as glycosaminoglycans, proteoglycans and fibroblasts. Its architecture results from the arrangement and the interactions between the constituents of the extracellular matrix and the fibroblasts which ensure their synthesis and their degradation. This extracellular matrix is composed mainly of elastin and collagen. Collagen is a fibrous protein found in the extracellular environment of all connective tissues. Of the 20 types of collagen identified, collagens I and III are the major components of the dermis. They are secreted in the extracellular matrix by fibroblasts in the form of pro-collagens, consisting of 3 alpha polypeptide chains forming a helical structure. It is also known that collagen synthesis starts with the assembly of pro-collagen units. For example, for the synthesis of type I collagen, these are type I pro-collagen units (also called Pro-Co111). The dermal-epidermal junction (DEJ) or basement membrane consists of extracellular matrix layers separating cells of different origin: keratinocytes and fibroblasts. The main constituents of this JDE are collagen IV, non-fibrillar protein forming a two-dimensional network and proteoglycans such as laminin, nidogene and perlecan. Finally, collagen VII molecules secreted by keratinocytes and fibroblasts form anchoring fibers ensuring cohesion between the basement membrane of the epidermis and the dermis. Finally, the epidermis consists mainly of keratinocytes, but also other cells, in particular melanocytes. These cells are located at a basement membrane that separates them from the dermis. Melanocytes are specialized dendritic cells whose function is to synthesize melanin. Over time, and particularly chronological and / or photoinduced aging, the skin undergoes numerous modifications and degradations that are reflected, at the tissue level, by a disorganization of the architecture of the epidermis, of the dermal junction. epidermal, dermis, as well as blood supply and innervation systems, and a slowing down or disruption of various cellular metabolisms, such as those involved in the balance of the barrier function or involved in melanogenesis. At the cellular level, aging thus results in an alteration of the physiology or metabolism of the main cell types such as dermal fibroblasts, epidermal keratinocytes, and also melanocytes. Skin aging results from two separate and independent processes that involve intrinsic or extrinsic factors. Intrinsic or chrono-biological aging corresponds to age-related normal or physiological aging. The intrinsic aging results in a slowing down of the renewal of the cells of the epidermis and the appearance of fine lines or wrinkles. At the level of the dermis, the biosynthesis of macromolecules such as collagen decreases with age, changing the mechanical properties of the dermis, hence slackening of the skin, one of the clinical signs of aging. Extrinsic aging corresponds to aging caused in general by the environment and corresponds more particularly to the photo-aging due to exposure to the sun. Photo-induced skin aging, that is to say, caused following exposure to the sun is still called photo-aging or heliodermia. Photo-aging is the result, at the level of the dermis, of the degradation of the collagen fibers resulting in particular in clinical alterations such as thick wrinkles and the formation of a soft and tanned skin. The aging of the skin is accelerated by chronic UV exposure.

Thus, the prolonged exposure to ultraviolet radiation, particularly to type A and B radiation, has the effect of stimulating the expression of collagenases, particularly MMP-1 (also called matrix metalloproteinase 1 or interstitial collagenase), constituting one of the components of photo-induced or non-photoinduced skin aging. It follows a lipid peroxidation of skin and / or scalp surfaces and in particular the photo-induced peroxidation of lipids of sebaceous origin, such as squalene. It is known that the lipids found on the surface of the skin, the scalp and the hair are constantly subjected to external aggressions and in particular air, air pollutants and visible and especially ultraviolet (UV) radiation and that the most exposed to external aggressions are those contained in the fatty secretions of the skin such as sebum, rich in squalene. The presence in the squalene molecules of six double bonds renders these molecules sensitive to oxidation phenomena. Thus, during prolonged exposure to UV, squalene is photoperoxide to give squalene peroxides. This high production of squalene peroxides causes in particular a series of chain damage especially in and on the skin, giving rise to numerous skin disorders including photoaging. Because of exposure to environmental factors, the skin is therefore subject to oxidative stress accelerating its aging. To fight against this damage, the skin contains several regulation and defense systems to fight against this oxidative stress, including enzymatic systems. One of these endogenous defense systems is Super-Oxide Dismutase (SOD). In particular, 50D2, present in mitochondria, transforms superoxide radicals into much less reactive hydrogen peroxides. A compound capable of inducing or potentiating the synthesis of these defense systems or stimulating its activity is another way to prevent or limit the consequences of oxidative stress, and in particular skin aging associated with oxidative stress.

The inhibitory activity of MMP-1 (without UV) also makes it possible to prevent the degradation of collagen fibers due to skin aging and thus to maintain the quality of the dermis. As for the stimulating activity on the synthesis of pro-Coin, it makes it possible to obtain these same effects. Therefore, several courses of action are possible to prevent or limit the consequences of skin aging, and thus maintain the quality of the dermis: either by stimulating the synthesis of macromolecules and in particular collagens I, III or VII or by inhibiting the synthesis MMP-1, either by stimulating endogenous defense systems such as SOD2. Many agents or treatments for preventing and / or treating photoaging already exist such as vitamin A, botulinum toxin, skin fillers, various laser treatments, dermabrasion and peels. However, it remains a permanent need to have new assets that can exert a beneficial cosmetic action on the signs of skin aging, especially chronological, or photoaging The object of the present invention is to satisfy this need.

By "care" is meant a non-therapeutic care that can produce an effect without preventing or correcting a malfunction of keratin materials. According to the invention, the term "prevention" or "prevention" means reducing the risk of occurrence or slowing down the occurrence of a given phenomenon, namely, according to the present invention, skin disorders and / or imperfections. skin associated with aging skin. In the remainder of the description, the term "Nepeta cataria citriodora" will be used in an undifferentiated manner, and for purposes of simplification, to designate an essential oil of "Citronic Catnip of the Drôme", of "Cataire Citronnée", Nepeta cataria L. citriodora or Nepeta cataria var. citriodora (BECK). This plant belongs to the Lamiaceae family. Certainly compositions comprising extracts or essential oils of plants belonging to the Lamiaceae family have already been reported in the literature. The documents JP09118630 and JP10330221 teach in particular the antioxidant properties of Nepeta cataria, called "catnip" or "catnip", and its protective role against the formation of wrinkles. WO2009098595 and WO2007085902 also describe anti-wrinkle compositions comprising extracts of Nepeta cataria. As described in Chalchat and Lamy, (1996, Chemical Composition of the Essential Oil Isolated from the Wild Catnip Nepeta Cataria L. Citriodora from the Drome Region of France, Journal of Essential Oil Research), this Nepeta cataria is a distinct variety of Nepeta. cataria citriodora, and of different composition. The essential difference between the essential oils of these two plant varieties is the amount of nepetalactone: nepetalactone and its isomers are among the main constituents of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria, called "catnip": they are present in an amount ranging from from 70 to 85% by weight, whereas they are present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora only in an amount of less than 10% by weight, and preferably in an amount of less than 1% by weight. Preferably, nepetalactone is present in trace amounts. According to a first subject, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora, as an active agent for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular chronological or photo-aging. The inventors have indeed demonstrated that the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora has an anti-aging activity. One of the advantages of the invention is to propose a natural active ingredient.

In particular, according to this first aspect, the present invention aims to protect the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora to prevent and / or treat aged or senescent skin. According also to this first aspect, the cosmetic use according to the present invention makes it possible to prevent and / or treat wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or crevices, the thinning of the skin, in particular of the dermis, and / or stains of senescence. By "cosmetic treatment of wrinkles and / or fine lines" is meant according to the present invention the fact of fading wrinkles and / or fine lines, or to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and / or fine lines. In addition, the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention makes it possible to prevent and / or treat the alteration of the microrelief, the loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity, and / or or softness of the skin and / or prevent and / or treat the loosening and / or drying of the skin.

According to this first aspect, the present invention relates to the cosmetic use of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora to stimulate the expression of pro-collagen I and / or to inhibit the expression of metalloproteinase type I of the extracellular matrix, in particular inhibiting the expression of type I metalloproteinase of the extracellular matrix, and / or combating oxidative stress-related disorders. The present invention also aims to protect a cosmetic skin treatment method for preventing or combating the signs of cutaneous aging, in particular chronological or photoaging, comprising at least one step of applying to the skin, in particular to the skin presenting such signs of skin aging or photo-aging, at least one composition comprising the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora. A composition used according to the invention, namely intended for the implementation of the invention, may be a cosmetic composition according to the intended application, and therefore comprises a physiologically acceptable medium.

By "physiologically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is compatible with all keratin materials such as the skin, the scalp, the nails, the mucous membranes, the eyes and the hair, or any other cutaneous zone of the body. A physiologically acceptable medium is preferably a cosmetically or acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the route of administration considered. Essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora The composition used according to the invention comprises the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora.

Nepeta cataria citriodora is an aromatic and fluffy herbaceous perennial plant, 1 m tall. The leaves are borne on a long tail. The stems are stiff, covered with short, tight hairs, forming a felting. It presents white flowers in whorls, piquetées of purple. The inflorescences are in compound clusters, fairly elongated, distributed from top to bottom of each branch.

The blooming time extends over the summer, from June to September, in sunny or partially shaded places.

This plant is found along paths, along hedges, in stony soils in most of France and in Corsica. This plant is a catnip catnip, or Nepeta cataria, but should not be confused with catnip. A cultivar can be considered as a particular variety obtained in culture. As seen previously, the cultivar "lemon" Nepeta cataria citriodora has the same botanical characteristics as Nepeta cataria but its essential oil has a different chemical composition, including the strong presence of lemon alcohols, and a much lower content of nepetalactone and its isomers compared to that of Nepeta cataria.

According to the definition given in International Standard ISO 9235 and adopted by the European Pharmacopoeia Commission, an essential oil is a product generally of complex composition, obtained from a botanically defined plant raw material, either by steam distillation. water, either by dry distillation or by a suitable mechanical process without heating (cold expression). The essential oil is most often separated from the aqueous phase by a physical process that does not entail a significant change in the composition. The choice of the technique depends mainly on the raw material: its original state and its characteristics, its nature proper. This choice conditions the characteristics of the essential oil, in particular viscosity, color, solubility, volatility, enrichment or depletion in certain constituents. The yield "essential oil / vegetable raw material" can be extremely variable according to the plants: 15 ppm to more than 20 ° A. Among the methods for obtaining an essential oil include steam distillation and dry distillation.

The training with water vapor corresponds to the vaporization in the presence of water vapor of a substance poorly miscible with water. The raw material is brought into the presence of boiling water or water vapor in a still. The water vapor causes the essential oil vapor which is condensed in the refrigerant to be recovered in liquid phase in a florentine (or essencier) vase where the essential oil is separated from the water by decantation. The aqueous distillate which remains in steam distillation after the separation of the essential oil is called "aromatic water or" hydrosol "or" floral distilled water ".

Dry distillation consists in obtaining the essential oil by distillation of wood, bark or roots, without the addition of water or water vapor in a closed chamber designed for the liquid to be recovered in its lower part. Cade oil is the best-known example of this method of production.

An essential oil according to the invention can therefore be prepared according to the techniques mentioned above, and preferably by steam distillation. Physico-chemical characteristics Essential oils are usually volatile and liquid at room temperature, which differentiates them from so-called fixed oils. They are more or less colored and their density is generally lower than that of water. They have a high refractive index and most can deflect polarized light. They are liposoluble and soluble in the usual organic solvents, entrainable with water vapor, very little soluble in water.

Plant Raw Materials In the context of the present invention, an essential oil used according to the invention may be prepared from any plant material derived from Nepeta cataria citriodora, cultured in vivo or derived from in vitro culture.

By in vivo culture is meant any culture of conventional type that is to say in soil in the open air or in the greenhouse or above ground. By in vitro culture is meant all the techniques known to those skilled in the art which artificially allows the production of a plant or part of a plant. The selection pressure imposed by the physicochemical conditions during the growth of the plant cells in vitro makes it possible to obtain standardized plant material that is available throughout the year, unlike plants grown in vivo. The essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora used in the present invention can be obtained from any plant material derived from this whole plant or from any part of this plant, such as, for example, leaves, stems, roots, flowers. , petals, seeds, umbels, roots, fruits, and buds, which are at various states of dryness (dry, withered, fresh).

This plant material may be from the whole plant or any part of it, such as leaves, stems, flowers, petals, seeds, umbels, buds and roots. Preferably, an essential oil used according to the invention is obtained from the flowering aerial parts.

As stated above, preferably, an essential oil used according to the invention is obtained according to the conventional technique of steam distillation. Advantageously, an essential oil used according to the invention is obtained from the flowering aerial parts of Nepeta cataria citriodora, preferably by hydrodistillation or steam distillation on a glass apparatus, distiller (apparatus of the Clevenger type 4 liters), as defined in the European Pharmacopoeia for the determination of the essential oil of a plant material. Preferably, the essential oil according to the invention is prepared from the grained umbels of Nepeta cataria citriodora, by hydro-distillation. Preferably, according to the invention, the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora is used in a cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.001% to 1% by weight. and most preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. The chemical composition of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in accordance with the invention thus obtained can be analyzed by standard techniques known to those skilled in the art such as gas chromatographic analysis GPC, chromatographic analysis with Flame ionization detection named GCFID, or GC / MS analysis which involves the use of a mass spectrometer coupled to a gas chromatograph.

Advantageously, the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora contains mainly monoterpenols and monoterpenals. The monoterpenols particularly considered according to the invention are nerol, geraniol and citronellol. The monoterpenals particularly considered according to the invention are the neral, the geranial and the citronellal.

The nerol is generally present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in a content of 15 to 31% by weight, in particular of 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

Geraniol is generally present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in a content of 15 to 32% by weight, in particular in a content of 25 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil. Citronellol is generally present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in a content of 10 to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil. The mineral is generally present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in a content of 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

Geranial is generally present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in a content of 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil. Citronellal may be present in the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora in a content of 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil. Terpenes, in particular beta-pinenes, are present in a low content, in particular less than 2.5% by weight, preferably in the form of traces relative to the total weight of said essential oil.

As indicated above, the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora comprises less than 10%, preferably less than 5%, more preferably less than 3%, and most preferably less than 1% of nepetalactone by weight, relative to total weight of said essential oil. Preferentially nepetalactone is present in the form of traces.

According to another embodiment, an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention consists of at least 40% by weight, preferably at least 50% by weight, and still more preferably at least 65% by weight. weight of monoterpenols selected from nerol, geraniol and citronellol.30 Such an oil can be sold by the company ELIXENS under the name "CATALONIC LEMON OIL ORGANIC CATRENED Essential Oil" (CAT800138).

Composition Preferably, a composition that is suitable for the invention is intended for a cosmetic application. It can be administered especially topically or orally. As indicated above, an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora used according to the present invention contains mainly nerol, geraniol and citronellol. Thus, according to one particular embodiment, a cosmetic composition that is suitable for the invention comprises an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention comprising a quantity of nerol in a content of 15 to 31% by weight, in particular from 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, a quantity of geraniol in a content of 15 to 32% by weight, in particular in a content of 25 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil , an amount of citronellol in a content of 10 to 17% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, a quantity of neral in a content of 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, a amount of geranial in a content of 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and a quantity of citronellal in a content of 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil e. Preferably, an essential oil according to the invention, when present in a composition, is formulated in a physiologically acceptable medium. When the composition is to be administered topically, such a medium is considered physiologically acceptable when it does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user. Advantageously, a composition suitable for the invention comprising an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention is intended for topical administration.

A composition that is suitable for use in the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic field. It may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, an aqueous gel , a gelled oil or not, a dispersion of oil (s) in an aqueous phase, in particular using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric particles or better, lipid vesicles of ionic type and / or non-ionic, or in the form of a powder, serum, paste or soft stick. It can be of solid consistency, pasty, or liquid more or less fluid. Thus, the composition may comprise all the constituents usually employed in the intended topical application and administration. Mention may in particular be made of water, solvents, oils of mineral, animal and / or vegetable origin, in particular as detailed below, the waxes, in particular as described below, the pigments, the fillers, the surfactants, thickeners, gelling agents, preservatives, and mixtures thereof. A composition that is suitable for the invention may also contain various adjuvants commonly used in the cosmetics field, such as sequestering agents, odor absorbers, UV filters, perfumes, mattifying agents, and abrasive fillers or exfoliating agents. and their mixtures. A composition suitable for the invention may advantageously comprise at least one additional active ingredient. By the term "additional active" is meant, in the context of the present invention, a compound which has, by itself, that is to say not requiring the intervention of an external agent for the activating a biological activity which may be in particular: - a metalloproteinase inhibitory activity (MMP), and / or - a photoprotective activity and / or - a moisturizing activity, and / or - a muscle relaxant or relaxing activity, and / or a stimulating activity of collagen synthesis, and / or a stimulating activity of elastin synthesis, and / or a stimulating activity of glycosaminoglycan synthesis; a stimulating activity for the synthesis of fibronectin, and / or a stimulating activity for the proliferation of fibroblasts, and / or a stimulating activity for the proliferation and / or differentiation of keratinocytes.

The additional active ingredient used in a composition suitable for the invention may represent from 0.0001% to 20%, preferably from 0.01% to 10% and more preferably from 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to to the total weight of the composition. Furthermore, a composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously comprise from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 35 to 75% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of said composition. A composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously have a firm, compact feel on setting. It can be thick on application and then transform, melt and release freshness. Of course, a person skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the essential oil according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the envisaged addition and that the properties of the resulting compositions are compatible with the preferred route of administration. A composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously comprise at least one fatty phase that is liquid at room temperature and at atmospheric pressure. As examples of oils that may be used in a composition that is suitable for the invention, mention may be made of: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of acids fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn, soya, squash, grapeseed, sesame, hazelnut or apricot oils , macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, such as those sold by Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel , jojoba oil, shea butter oil, esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the oils of formulas R 1 COOR 2 and R 10 R 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a fatty acid, bearing from 8 to 29 carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, for example purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate or isopropyl myristate. ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxyl esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate, linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, isohexadecane, isododecane, petrolatum polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam® oil, natural or synthetic essential oils, fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and the like. mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyl dodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol, partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in US Pat. the document JP-A-2-295912, silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, liquid or pasty at room temperature e, especially cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl-dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl tri siloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates and polymethylphenylsiloxanes, and mixtures thereof. The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups.

Other fatty substances that may be present in the oily phase are, for example, waxes and fatty acids containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, such as stearic acid, lauric acid, palmitic acid and oleic acid. As waxes that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of waxes of animal origin such as beeswax, spermaceti, lanolin wax and lanolin derivatives, vegetable waxes such as wax of Carnauba, Candellila, Ouricury, Japan, cocoa butter or cork fiber or sugarcane waxes, mineral waxes, eg paraffin, petrolatum, lignite or microcrystalline waxes or ozokerites synthetic waxes, among which are polyethylene waxes, polytetrafluoroethylene waxes and waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis, or silicone waxes, hydrogenated oils that are solid at 25 ° C., such as hydrogenated castor oil, and oil. hydrogenated jojoba, hydrogenated palm oil, hydrogenated tallow, hydrogenated coconut oil and concrete fatty esters at 25 ° C such as C20-C40 alkyl stearate sold under the trade name KEST ER WAX K82H "by KOSTER KEUNEN.

These fatty substances may be chosen in a varied manner by those skilled in the art in order to prepare a composition having the desired properties, for example of consistency or texture. The compositions that are suitable for the invention may comprise a volatile oil.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil capable of evaporating on contact with keratin materials in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 0 to 13 Pa at 40,000 Pa (10-3 to 300 mm Hg), in particular ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and more particularly ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mmHg).

Volatile oils which may be mentioned include, among others, cyclic or linear silicones containing from 2 to 6 silicon atoms, such as cyclohexasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, butyltrisiloxane and ethyltrisiloxane. It is also possible to use branched hydrocarbons such as, for example, isododecane as well as volatile perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050®" and "PF 5060®" by the company 3M and the derivatives perfluoromorpholine, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052®" by the company 3M. The amount of oily phase present in the compositions that are suitable for the invention may range, for example, from 0.01 to 50% by weight and preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition that is suitable for the invention may advantageously be in the form of an emulsion, in particular obtained by dispersing an aqueous phase in a fatty phase (W / O) or a fatty phase in an aqueous phase (O / W). ), of liquid or semi-liquid consistency of the milk type, or of soft, semi-solid or solid consistency of the cream or gel type, or of multiple emulsion (W / O / W or H / E / H). These compositions are prepared according to the usual methods. A composition of this type may be in the form of a care product or make-up of the face and / or the body, and may be packaged, for example, in the form of potted cream or fluid in a tube or in a pump bottle. The emulsions suitable for the invention may comprise at least one emulsifier chosen from amphoteric, anionic, cationic or nonionic emulsifiers, used alone or as a mixture. Advantageously, the emulsifiers are suitably selected according to the emulsion to be obtained (W / O or HIE). The emulsifiers are generally present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. For the emulsions HIE, mention may be made, for example, as emulsifiers, of nonionic surfactants, and in particular esters of polyols and of saturated or unsaturated chain fatty acid comprising, for example, from 8 to 24 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives, that is to say comprising oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene units, such as esters of glyceryl and of C 8 -C 24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of polyethylene glycol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sorbitol and of C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; esters of sugar (sucrose, glucose, alkylglucose) and C8-C24 fatty acid, and their oxyalkylenated derivatives; fatty alcohol ethers; sugar ethers and C8-C24 fatty alcohols, and mixtures thereof. A composition that is suitable for the invention may also comprise at least one silicone elastomer, such as the products sold under the names "KSG" by the company Shin-Etsu, under the names "Trefil", "BY29" or "EPSX" by the Dow Corning or under the names "Gransil" by the company Grant Industries. A composition that is suitable for the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff chosen, for example, from pigments, nacres, dyes, effect materials and their mixtures. These dyestuffs may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.01% to 30% relative to the total weight of the composition. A composition that is suitable for the invention may also comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. % in weight.

These fillers can be mineral or organic of all shapes, platelet, spherical or oblong, whatever the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, or amorphous). Mention may be made of silica, talc, mica, kaolin, lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, PTFE powders, PMMA powders, methyl silsesquioxane resin powders (such as Tospearl 145A of GE Silicone), hollow hemispherical silicone resin particles (such as Takemoto Oil and Fat's NLK 500, NLK 506 and NLK 510), barium sulfate, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and hydrochloride. magnesium carbonate, hydroxyapatite, glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids having from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc stearate; , magnesium or lithium, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

In the case of oral administration, the composition may be in the form of tablets, capsules, dragees, syrups, suspensions, solutions, powders, granules, emulsions, suspensions of microspheres or nanospheres or lipid or polymeric vesicles for controlled release. Preferably, the composition is in the form of a food supplement. In the case of topical administration, the compositions according to the invention may be in the form of skincare or semi-mucous products such as a protection, treatment or facial care composition, for example the lips, for the hands, for the feet, for the anatomical folds or for the body (for example, day cream, night cream, makeup remover, make-up base, sunscreen composition, body protection or care milk, milk after -solar, lotion, gel or mousse for the care of the skin or scalp, serum, powder, mask, artificial tanning composition, aftershave composition, hair composition, product for the armpit area, product for hygiene and According to a preferred embodiment, a composition comprising the essential oil of the invention is formulated in an anti-aging cream.A composition that is suitable for the invention may be manufactured by any method known generally in the art. used in the cosmetic or dermatological fields.

The cosmetic treatment process of the invention is advantageously carried out by topically administering a composition comprising an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention. The topical administration consists of the external application on the skin of cosmetic compositions according to the technique of usual use of these compositions.

According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic treatment method according to the present invention is characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the flowering aerial parts of Nepeta cataria citriodora. According to another particular embodiment, said process is characterized in that said essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora comprises a quantity of nerol ranging from 15 to 31% by weight, in particular from 20 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, an amount of geraniol ranging from 15 to 32% by weight, in particular from 25 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, an amount of citronellol ranging from 10 to 17% by weight per relative to the total weight of said essential oil, a quantity of neral ranging from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil, a quantity of geranial ranging from 4 to 12% by weight, relative to the total weight of said essential oil, and a quantity of citronellal ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil. By way of illustration, the cosmetic process according to the invention may be carried out by topical application, for example daily, of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention, which may for example be formulated in the form of creams, gels, serums, lotions, emulsions, cleansing milks or after-sun compositions, and in particular anti-aging cream. The method according to the invention may comprise a single application. According to another embodiment, the application is repeated for example 2 to 3 times daily for a day or more and generally for an extended period of at least 4 or even 4 to 15 weeks, with one or more periods if applicable. interruption. In addition, treatment combinations with possibly oral or topical forms may be envisaged in order to supplement or reinforce the activity of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora as defined by the invention.

Thus, it is possible to envisage a topical treatment with a composition containing an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to the invention, associated with an oral or topical composition possibly containing another essential oil. The ingredients are mixed prior to shaping, in order and under conditions readily determined by those skilled in the art. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, it is also possible to add, in a composition that is suitable for the invention, other agents intended to embellish the appearance and / or the texture of the skin. Throughout the description, including the claims, the phrase "having one" should be understood as being synonymous with "having at least one" unless the opposite is specified.

Expressions "between ... and ..." and "ranging from ..." must be understood as inclusive terms, unless otherwise specified. The following examples and figures are presented for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the invention. The compounds are, as the case may be, cited in chemical names or in 5 CTFA names (International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook). EXAMPLES Example 1: Formulation for anti-aging cream Ingredients Percentage by weight Glycerol 5 Xanthan mixture: Polysaccharides: Glucose / Mannose / Glucuronic acid (40/30/30) Rhodicare XC (RHODIA) 0.4 Herbal mixture of Lecithin, of fatty acids and 5 fatty alcohols Biophilic H Lucas Meyer Cosmetics (UNIPEX) Organic cold sunflower oil Emile Noel 0.5 ORGANIC apricot kernel oil (EARTH OIL®) 6 Bidistilled cetostearyl alcohol 5 TEGOe ALKANOL 1618 (EVONIK GOLDSCHMIDT) Ditertiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene NIPANOXe BHT 0.05 (CLARIANT) Benzyl alcohol / Dehydroacetic acid / Water GEOGARD 221 (LONZA) 0.8 Nepeta essential oil cataria citriodora (Elixens ®) 0.5 L-Arginine 0.1 Water qs The fatty phase is heated to 70 ° C. Xanthan is pre-empted in the cold glycerin and then added with stirring to the aqueous phase at 50 ° C. The gelled aqueous phase is raised to 70 ° C. and the Biophilic H emulsifier is added thereto with stirring for 15 minutes.

The emulsion is then produced by pouring the fatty phase into the aqueous phase with stirring. After cooling to room temperature, lemon catnip essential oil is added to the final composition.

This cream applied for example 1 to 2 times a day can prevent and / or treat the cutaneous signs of aging, and in particular to limit the appearance of wrinkles and loss of firmness. Example 2 Evaluation of the Dermal Activity of the Lemon Catnip Essential Oil Effects of the different treatments on the synthesis / secretion of WP-1 (after UVA irradiation) by fibroblasts in culture. A. Material and Methods The effect of the different essential oils on the biosynthesis of the macromolecules of the extracellular matrix is measured on skin fibroblasts culture. ELIXENS Lemon Catnip Essential Oil (Cat800138) is diluted to 0.0002% in phosphate buffered saline (PBS).

Normal human skin fibroblast cells (primoculture) are cultured at confluence in 8500 cells / well for 72 h in MEM medium supplemented with 10% fetal calf serum (FCS). The fibroblasts are incubated for 24 hours in the presence of UVA (12J / cm 2), and / or of a diluted essential oil preparation as defined above. At the end of incubation, the quantification of the synthesis / secretion of MMP1 is carried out (n = 3) with an MMP1 assay per Elisa kit. B. Results Treatment Concentration M1VIP-1 (+ UV) (n = 3)% control Lemon Catnip essential oil ELIXENS 0.0002% 83 * * 0.01 <p <0.05 As shown above, lemon catnip essential oil significantly inhibits the synthesis of MMP-1 by fibroblasts, after UVA induction. EXAMPLE 3 Activity of the Lemon Catnip Essential Oil on the Expression of the Genes Encoding Mn-SOD by Human Fibroblasts Irradiated or Not by UT / s Objective of the study: The effects of lemon catnip essential oil were evaluated by real-time RT-PCR quantitative expression (RT-qPCR) of the expression of SOD2 transcripts encoding MnSOD by fibroblasts. A. Materials and Methods 1. Culture and Treatment Normal human dermal fibroblasts (primoculture strain) were inoculated and cultured in culture medium (DMEM composition + 10% FCS). At confluence, the medium was replaced with assay medium (DMEM + 1% FCS) and the cells were incubated for 24 hours. The medium was then replaced with test medium containing or not (control) an essential oil of lily catnip Elixens (Ref CAT800138).

After 24 hours of incubation, the culture medium was replaced by irradiation medium (EBSS solution), and then the cells were irradiated or not (non-irradiated conditions) by 20 J / cm 2 of UVA. At the end of the irradiation, the irradiation medium was replaced by test medium containing or not (control) the essential oil of Cataire lemon Elixens (Ref CAT800138). The cells were then incubated for 6 hours. All the experimental conditions were realized in triplicate. At the end of the incubations the medium was removed, the cells were rinsed with PBS and the cell mats were frozen at -80 ° C in the presence of Tripure Isolation Reagent. 2. Differential Expression Analysis Expression markers were evaluated by RT-qPCR on messenger RNAs extracted from the cell mats of each treatment (the triplicates were pooled before RNA extraction). 2a. Inverse Transcription Total RNAs from each sample were extracted using the TriPure Isolation Reagent reagent and quantified by NanovueTM spectrophotometer (Amersham). The contaminating DNA is removed according to the protocol established by the DNA-free system (Ambion 1906). The reverse transcription reaction of the mRNAs is carried out from oligo (dT) primers and Superscript II (Gibco) enzyme according to the manufacturer's protocol. The quantification of the cDNAs obtained is carried out on a NanovueTM spectrophotometer (Amersham), and the concentration of the cDNAs is adjusted to 10 ng / μl. 2b. Quantitative PCR The PCR reactions were performed by quantitative PCR with the "Light Cycler®" system (Roche Molecular Systems Inc.). This analysis system makes it possible to carry out fast and efficient PCR reactions, with a prior development of the analysis conditions of the different primers. It consists of two main components: an optimized thermocycler for extremely fast heat transfer; a fluorimeter for continuously measuring the fluorescence intensity incorporated in the DNA (detection at 521 nm). The primer pairs used in this study allow the amplification of the following specific fragments: Gene name Abbreviation Ref. Gene Length of Bank cDNA (bp) Glyceraldehyde-3-phosphate dehydrogenase GAPDH NM-002046 269 Superoxide dismutase 2, mitochondrial SOD2 NM-000636.2 235 The reaction mixture (10 μl final) for each sample is as follows: - 2.5 μl d CDNA at 10 ng / 1.11, - primers of the different markers used, - reaction mixture (Roche) containing the enzyme taq DNA polymerase, the marker SYBR Green I (fluorophore which is inserted in the double-stranded DNA, during the elongation step) and MgCl 2. 2c. Treatment of Quantitative PCR Data Fluorescence incorporation into the amplified DNA is measured continuously during PCR cycles. These measurements make it possible to obtain fluorescence intensity curves as a function of PCR cycles and thus to evaluate a relative expression value for each marker. The number of cycles is determined from the "exit" points of the fluorescence curves. For the same marker analyzed, the longer a sample leaves (high number of cycles), the lower the initial number of copies of the messenger RNA. The value of ER (relative expression) is expressed in arbitrary units according to the following formula: (1/2 number of cycles) x 106 B. Results The results in Table 1 show an overexpression of 50D2 by control fibroblasts after UVA treatment, of the order of 236 ° A, relative to the level of expression observed before irradiation. Table 1. Effect of irradiation by UVA (20 J / cm2) on the expression of 50D2 by fibroblasts. Results referenced to the amount of G3PDH messenger (reference gene) and expressed as% of unirradiated control. Treatment G3PDH SOD2 SOD2 / G3PDH% ER (UA) ER (UA) (after / before irradiation) Without irradiation 20.748 0.654 3.16E-02 - (Control) Irradiation 20 J / cm2 16.025 1.197 7.47E-02 236 The effect of Lemon Catnip essential oil on this overexpression of UVA-dependent SOD2 is then evaluated. The results are summarized in Table 2. Table 2 - Assessment of the effects of lemon catnip essential oil on the relative expression of SOD2 markers by irradiated or non-irradiated fibroblasts. Results referenced to the amount of G3PDH messengers (reference gene) and expressed as a percentage of the untreated control. Treatment Concentration SOD2 / G3PDH (% control) Without irradiation Essential oil of 0.000002% 114 Lemon catkin 0.00002% 97 Irradiation Essential oil of 0.000002% 237 20 km 'Lime catamen 0.00002% 246 Under the experimental conditions of this study, the essential oil of Lemon catnip significantly increased the expression of UVA-induced SOD2 (Table 2), compared with the expected physiological increase on control fibroblasts (Table 1). Basal level, in the absence of irradiation, the expression of this marker was not modulated following this treatment.

It has therefore been shown that the irradiation of fibroblasts by UVA (20 J / cm 2) clearly stimulated the expression of SOD2 after 6 hours of culture. These results were expected and validate the test.

In particular, it has been shown that this stimulation of the expression of SOD2 UV-induced by the essential oil of Cataire lemon was of the order of 237 and 246% for respective concentrations of 0.000002% and 0.00002 %.

Claims (13)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic use of the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora, as an active ingredient for preventing and / or treating the cutaneous signs of aging, in particular of photo-aging. 2. Cosmetic use according to claim 1 for preventing and / or treating aged or senescent skin. 3. Cosmetic use according to the preceding claim, for preventing and / or treating wrinkles and / or fine lines and / or crevices, thinning of the skin, in particular the dermis, and / or senescence spots. 4. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims for preventing and / or treating the alteration of the microrelief, the loss of firmness and / or elasticity and / or tonicity and / or suppleness of the skin, and / or prevent and / or treat sagging and / or drying of the skin. 5. Cosmetic use of an essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora according to one of the preceding claims for inhibiting the expression of type I metalloproteinase of the extracellular matrix and / or to fight against disorders related to oxidative stress. 6. Cosmetic use according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that said essential oil is obtained from the flowering aerial parts. 7. Use according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that said essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora is used in a cosmetic composition in a content ranging from 0.0001% to 10% by weight, preferably 0.001%. % to 1% by weight, and most preferably from 0.01% to 1% by weight, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. 8. Use according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that said essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora comprises less than 10% of nepetalactone by weight, preferably less than 1% of nepetalactone, relative to the total weight of said composition. 9. Use according to one of the preceding claims characterized in that said essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora comprises a quantity of nerol ranging from 15 to 31%, a geraniol amount ranging from 15 to 32%, a quantity of citronellol ranging from 10 to 17%, a quantity of neral ranging from 2 to 8%, a quantity of geranial ranging from 4 to 12%, and a quantity of citronellal ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said oil essential. 10. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the essential oil is administered topically. 11. Use according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the essential oil is formulated in an anti-aging cream. 12. A method of cosmetic skin treatment to prevent or fight against the signs of skin aging, including photoaging comprising at least one step of applying to the skin at least one composition comprising the essential oil of Nepeta cataria citriodora. 13. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said essential oil of Nepeta cataria L. citriodora comprises a nerol amount ranging from 15 to 31%, a geraniol amount ranging from 15 to 32%, a quantity of citronellol ranging from at 17%, a quantity of neral ranging from 2 to 8%, a quantity of geranial ranging from 4 to 12%, and a quantity of citronellal ranging from 0.5 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of said essential oil .