FR2984139A1 - Transparent, anhydrous and solid composition used for making up skin, comprises polyamide resin, gelling system comprising combination of lipophilic gelling agent and solvent to form hydrogen bonds, and (non)polar nonvolatile oil - Google Patents

Abstract

Transparent, anhydrous and solid composition comprises at least one of polyamide resin, of gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent with low molecular weight dialkyl N-acylglutamides bearing a linear or branched alkyl chain, preferably 2-6C dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear or branched 8-22C alkyl chain and a solvent to form hydrogen bonds with the low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agent, of polar nonvolatile oil, and of nonpolar nonvolatile oil (less than 35 wt.%). An independent claim is included for a core-shell product comprising a first composition forming the shell, and a second composition, which is different from the first composition, forming the core.

Description

The present invention relates to the field of care and / or make-up of the skin and / or the lips, in particular the lips. Skincare and / or make-up compositions for the skin and / or the lips generally contain one or more fatty substances structured with a "structuring" or "gelling" agent, conventionally a wax or a polymer, to improve the rigidity of the compositions. and in particular to obtain solid compositions, preferably in the form of rods, which remain stable in this state and in particular which do not exude notably at room temperature. Of course, the dosage form of these compositions must meet the requirements on the one hand of mechanical order to ensure the sliding and holding rod during application and prevent it breaks and other on the other hand, transfer qualities to ensure a comfortable application as well as a sufficient deposit and good quality on the lips. Compositions containing waxes are not always satisfactory, especially in terms of gloss and gloss retention. In terms of sensory qualities, the users note that these compositions often lead to a thick, non-slippery deposit and to a "waxy" waxy feeling that can be attributed to a recrystallization effect of the waxes in contact with the lips. The cosmetic compositions contemplated in the present invention are more particularly solid makeup and / or care compositions intended to be applied to keratinous substances, in particular the skin and the lips, and may be formulated in particular as lipstick, as a balm for lipstick, lip liner, solid foundation, in particular cast in a stick or cup, in an anticler product, in a product for coloring the skin, in an eye makeup product, such as eyeliner, in particular in the form of a pencil , and mascara, especially in the form of bread or eyeshadow. The problem at the origin of the present invention was to obtain a care composition and / or makeup of the skin and / or anhydrous and transparent lips that is free of waxes so as not to have the drawbacks mentioned above attached to compositions based on waxes. The inventors solved this problem by means of the composition according to the present invention.

Thus, according to a first aspect, the subject of the present invention is a solid, anhydrous and transparent composition comprising: at least one polyamide resin; at least one gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl Ns; linear low alkyl chain acylglutamides, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain, with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl Ns; acylglutamides with a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain, in particular chosen from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a C 8 to C 22 branched alkyl chain and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents, at least one polar non-volatile oil, at least one apolar non-volatile oil in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a second aspect, the subject of the present invention is a method for caring for and / or making up the skin and / or the lips in which the composition according to the invention is applied to the skin and / or the lips. According to a third aspect, the subject of the present invention is the use of the composition according to the invention for the care and / or the make-up of the skin and / or the lips and especially as a lipstick, in particular for improving comfort. of keratin materials. The compositions according to the invention have the advantage of being both solid and transparent.

Because of their transparency, these compositions are very satisfying visually. In addition, they are characterized by a good sliding application. The resulting deposit is fine, shiny and has a soft, creamy texture close to that of a balm. In the remainder of the present description, other objects, aspects, properties and advantages of the present invention are presented.

Protocol for Measuring Hardness By "solid" composition is meant the form of the composition at 20 ° C., and in particular, by solid, is meant a composition whose hardness at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg ) is greater than or equal to 30 Nm-1 when measured according to the protocol described below. The hardness of a solid composition is measured according to the following protocol. The composition whose hardness is to be determined is kept at 20 ° C. for 24 hours before measuring the hardness. The hardness can be measured at 20 ° C. by the so-called "butter-cutting thread" method, which consists in transversely cutting a stick of product, preferably cylindrical of revolution, with the aid of a rigid tungsten wire. diameter 250 i.tm by moving the wire relative to the stick at a speed of 100 mm / min. The hardness of the samples of compositions of the invention, expressed in Nm-i, is measured by means of a DFGS2 dynamometer marketed by INDELCO15 CHATILLON. The measurement is repeated three times and averaged. The average of the three values read using the dynamometer mentioned above, denoted Y, is given in grams. This average is converted to Newton and divided by L which represents the highest dimension traversed by the wire. In the case of a cylindrical stick, L is equal to the diameter (in meters). The hardness is converted to Nm-1 by the following equation: (Yx 10-3 x9.8) / L For a measurement at a different temperature, the stick is kept at this new temperature for 24 hours before the measurement. According to this measuring method, the composition according to the invention preferably has a hardness at 20 ° C. and at atmospheric pressure greater than or equal to 40 Nm -1, preferably greater than 50 Nm -1. Preferably, the composition according to the invention has in particular a hardness at 20 ° C of less than 500 Nm-1, especially less than 400 Nm-1, preferably less than 300 Nm-1. Advantageously, these compositions have a shear value ranging from 80 to 120, preferably from 90 to 120 gF. Thus, these compositions can be formulated in a conventional packaging that does not require a means of supporting the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the term "transparent composition" is intended to mean a composition which transmits at least 40% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm without diffusing it, that is to say a composition in which The diffraction angle of the light is less than 5 °, more preferably about 0 °. The transparent composition can transmit at least 50%, especially at least 60%, especially at least 70% of light at a wavelength of 750 nm.

The measurement of the transmission is carried out with a UV-visible spectrophotometer Cary 300 Scan from Varian according to the following protocol: The composition is cast in a square-section spectrophotometer tank whose side has a length of 10 mm. - The sample of the composition is then maintained in a thermostatically controlled chamber at 20 ° C for 24 hours. The transmitted light is then measured through the sample of the spectrophotometer composition by scanning wavelengths ranging from 700 nm to 800 nm, the measurement being made in transmission mode. The percentage of light transmitted through the sample of the composition at the wavelength of 750 nm is then determined. The transparent compositions, when placed at 0.01 m in front of a black line of thickness 2 mm in diameter traced on a white sheet, show this feature; in contrast, an opaque, that is, non-transparent composition, would not allow it. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is colorless.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "colorless composition" is intended to mean that the composition absorbs light outside the visible range, or outside the wavelength range of between 400 and 700 nm, advantageously between 380 and 700 nm. and 780 nm. The composition may also be slightly colored, in which case it contains at most 1%, preferably less than 0.5% and more preferably less than 0.2% by weight of at least one organic coloring matter based on the weight total of the composition.

The dyestuff is preferably selected from organic dyestuffs, metal oxides, and mixtures thereof. Said organic dyestuff may be chosen from organic pigments.

The organic pigments can be chosen from the following materials and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane dyes.

Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of the D & C-certified pigments known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red # 17, D & C Red # 21, D & C Red # 22, D & C Red n ° 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7 , D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The The chemical materials corresponding to each of the above-mentioned organic dyestuffs are referred to in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association. whose content is incorporated in the this request by reference. Advantageously, said organic coloring material is chosen from the following fat-soluble dyes: Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, (3-Carotene, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5, quinoline yellow, water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, etc. The dyestuff may also be a powdery material surface-treated with a hydrophobic agent chosen from pigments and / or pearlescent agents.

By pigments, it is necessary to include particles of any shape, white or colored, mineral or organic, insoluble in the physiological medium, intended to color the composition.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand particles of any iridescent form, in particular produced by certain molluscs in their shell or else synthesized. The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum. It is also possible to mention effect pigments, such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate whether or not covered with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, oxide of chromium and mixtures thereof. The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium, or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, blue. ferric oxide or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It is also possible to use interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments.

The dyestuffs, in particular the pigments treated with a hydrophobic agent, may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 20% by weight. The pulverulent dyestuffs treated on the surface with a hydrophobic agent may constitute from 10 to 100% by weight of all the dyestuffs.

As an illustration of pearlescent agents that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored pearlescent agents, sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne) , Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention is anhydrous. For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous composition" is intended to mean a composition containing less than 2%, preferably less than 0.5% by weight of water, with respect to total weight of the composition. If necessary, such small amounts of water may be provided by ingredients of the composition which contain a residual amount but are not made deliberately. The composition according to the invention comprises, preferably consists essentially of a fatty phase and structuring agents of said fatty phase. The fatty phase of the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil, and at least one apolar nonvolatile oil in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. By "oil" is meant a non-aqueous compound, immiscible with water, liquid at room temperature (25 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the keratin materials at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than 101 mmHg (0.13 Pa). It is also possible to define a non-volatile oil as having an evaporation rate such that under the conditions defined above, the amount evaporated after 30 minutes is less than 0.07 mg / cm 2. Polar oils The composition comprises a polar nonvolatile oil, preferably chosen from hydrocarbon oils and fluorinated oils. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition does not comprise non-volatile oil (s) silicone (s). By silicone oil is meant an oil containing at least one silicon atom, and in particular containing Si-O groups.

By fluorinated oil is meant an oil containing at least one fluorine atom. According to a first preferred embodiment, said polar nonvolatile oil is a hydrocarbon oil.

By "polar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, δa, is different from 0 (J / cm3) 1/4. These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "polar hydrocarbon oil" is meant an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing a silicon atom or of fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. Non-volatile hydrocarbon oil In particular, the non-volatile hydrocarbonaceous polar oil may be chosen from the following list of oils, and their mixtures: vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids having from 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or jojoba oil; the hydrocarbon esters of formula RCOOR 'in which RCOO represents a carboxylic acid residue containing from 2 to 30 carbon atoms, and R' represents a hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, such as isononanoate; isononyl, isotridecyl isononanoate, diisostearyl malate, oleyl erucate or octyl-2-dodecyl neopentanoate; isopropyl myristate; polyesters obtained by condensation of dimer and / or trimer of unsaturated fatty acid and of diol, such as those described in patent application FR 0 853 634, such as in particular dilinoleic acid and 1,4-diol; butanediol. Mention may in particular be made of the polymer marketed by Biosynthis under the name Viscoplast 14436H (INCI name: dilinoleic acid / butanediol copolymer), or the copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, preferably monoalcohols, preferably branched, such as octadodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyl decanol, 2-undecyl pentadecanol, oleic alcohol, isostearyl alcohol; higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and mixtures thereof; oils of vegetable origin, such as sesame oil (820.6 g / mol), fatty acids having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as oleic acid; di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name Cetiol CC®, by Cognis; and non-volatile oils of high molecular weight, for example between 650 and 10,000 g / mol, for example: i) copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone such as the vinylpyrrolidone / 1-hexadecene copolymer, ANTARON V-216 marketed or manufactured by the ISP company (MW = 7300 g / mol), ii) ester oils such as: a) linear fatty acid esters having a total number of carbon ranging from 35 to 70, such as pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate (MW = 697 , 05 g / mol), b) hydroxyl esters such as polyglycerol-2 triisostearate (MW = 965.58 g / mol), c) aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate (MW = 757.19 g / mol d) esters of fatty alcohol or branched C24-C28 fatty acids such as those described in application EP-A-0 955 039, and in particular triisoarachidyl citrate (MW = 1033.76 g / mol ), pentaerythrityl tetraisonanoate (MW = 697.05g / mol), glyceryl triisostearate (MW = 891.51 g / mol), tri-decyl-2 tetradecanoate of glyceryl (MW = 1143.98 g / mol), pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (MW = 1202.02 g / mol), polyglyceryl-2 tetraisostearate (MW = 1232.04 g / mol) or tetra decyl Pentaerythrityl tetradecanoate (MW = 1538.66 g / mol), e) diol dimer and mono- or dicarboxylic acid esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters and dimer diols and dimer of dicarboxylic acid, there may be mentioned the esters of dilinoleic diacids and dimers dilinoleic diols sold by the company Nippon FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DDDA7®. - and their mixtures.

The esters of diol dimer and of monocarboxylic acid can be obtained from monocarboxylic acid comprising from 4 to 34 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 32 carbon atoms, which acids are linear, branched, saturated or unsaturated.

By way of illustration of an example of a monocarboxylic acid which is suitable for the invention, mention may in particular be made of fatty acids. The diol dimer and dicarboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a dicarboxylic acid dimer derived in particular from the dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular C 8 to C 34, in particular C 18 to C 22, in particular C 16 to C20, and more particularly C18. According to a particular variant, it is more particularly the dicarboxylic acid dimer from which the diol dimer to be esterified is also derived. The dimer diol and carboxylic acid esters may be obtained from a diol dimer produced by catalytic hydrogenation of a dicarboxylic acid dimer as described above, for example hydrogenated dilinoleic diacid. By way of illustration of the diol dimer esters, mention may be made in particular of the esters of dilinoleic diacids and of dilinoleic diol dimers marketed by NipPON FINE CHEMICAL under the trade name LUSPLAN DD-DA5® and DD-DA7®. Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one polar nonvolatile oil chosen from hydrocarbon polar oils, preferably chosen from ester oils, alcoholic oils and mixtures thereof. In particular, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one non-volatile ester oil, preferably with a molecular weight greater than 650 g / mol, preferably chosen from aromatic esters such as tridecyl trimellitate. Preferably, the ester oils are chosen from isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, tridecyl trimellitate and diisostearyl malate. Preferably, the alcoholic oils are selected from octadodecanol and isostatic alcohol. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight and more preferably at least 90% by weight of oil (s). ) non-volatile (s) hydrocarbon (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. Non-volatile fluorinated oil The non-volatile oil may also be a fluorinated oil.

By "fluorinated oil" is meant an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The fluorinated oils that may be used according to the invention may be chosen from fluorosilicone oils, fluorinated polyethers, fluorinated silicones as described in document EP-A-847752 and perfluorinated compounds. By perfluorinated compounds is meant according to the invention compounds in which all the hydrogen atoms have been substituted by fluorine atoms. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil according to the invention is chosen from perfluorinated oils.

As examples of perfluorinated oils that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of perfluorodecalin and perfluoperhydrophenanthrene. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the fluorinated oil chosen from perfluoperhydrophenanthrenes, and in particular Fiflow® products marketed by the company Creations Couleurs. In particular, it is possible to use the fluorinated oil whose INCI name is perfluoperhydrophenanthrene, sold under the reference FIFLOW 220 by the company F2 Chemicals. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight, preferably 90% by weight and more preferably 95% by weight of non-volatile oil relative to to the total weight of said composition. Hydrocarbon apolar oils The composition according to the invention further comprises a hydrocarbon-based apolar oil.

The composition comprises less than 35%, preferably less than 22%, more preferably less than 20% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) apolar (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition comprises 1 to 34.5% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) apolar (s) relative to the total weight of the composition.

These oils can be of vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin. By "apolar oil" within the meaning of the present invention is meant an oil whose solubility parameter at 25 ° C, δa, is equal to 0 (J / cm3) 1/4.

The definition and calculation of the solubility parameters in the HANSEN three-dimensional solubility space are described in the article by C. M. Hansen: "The three dimensional solubility parameters" J. Paint Technol. 39, 105 (1967). According to this Hansen space: - SD characterizes the dispersion forces of LONDON resulting from the formation of dipoles induced during molecular shocks; - δp characterizes the DEBYE interaction forces between permanent dipoles as well as the KEESOM interaction forces between induced dipoles and permanent dipoles; hh characterizes the specific interaction forces (hydrogen bond, acid / base, donor / acceptor, etc.) type; and - 15a is determined by the equation: δa = ((Sp2 8h2) 1/4 .The parameters δp, δh, 15D and δa are expressed in (J / cm3) 1/4. By "hydrocarbon oil", means an oil formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly oxygen, nitrogen, and not containing silicon or fluorine atoms. Alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide By "hydrocarbon ester oil" is meant a hydrocarbon oil comprising at least one ester group, Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is atom-free. Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil may be chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as: paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, petrolatum oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes such as INDOPOL H-100 (molar mass or MW = 965 g / mol), INDOPOL H-300 (MW = 1340 g / mol), INDOPOL H-1500 (MW = 2160 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO, hydrogenated polyisobutylenes such as Parleam® sold by the company Nippon Oil Fats, PANALANE H-300 E marketed or manufactured by the company AMOCO (MW = 1340 g / mol), Viseal 20000 marketed or manufactured by SYNTEAL (MW = 6000 g / mol), REWOPAL PIB 1000 marketed or manufactured by WITCO (MW = 1000 g / mol), decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, especially Indopol L-14, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes such as: PURESYN 10 (MW = 723 g / mol), PURESYN 150 (MW = 9200 g / mol) marketed or manufactured by the company MOBIL CHEMICALS, and their mixtures.

Preferably, the non-volatile apolar hydrocarbon oil is isoeicosane. According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of hydrogenated polydecenes.

Volatile oils Preferably, the composition according to the invention is free of volatile oil. By "volatile oil" is meant an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (101 Pa). at 300 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mmHg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.1 to 10 mm) of Hg).

Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises less than 0.5%, better still less than 0.1% and even better is completely free of wax. Indeed, such waxes may compromise the transparent aspect advantageously sought after a composition according to the invention.

The wax (es) in question is generally a solid-state solid (25 ° C) lipophilic solid-reversible liquid-solid state compound having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. up to 200 ° C and especially up to 120 ° C. In particular, the waxes that are suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C., and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C.

For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis (DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments.

Preferably, the waxes have a melting enthalpy AHf greater than or equal to 70 J / g. Preferably, the waxes comprise at least one crystallizable part, visible by X-ray observations. The measurement protocol is as follows: A sample of 5 mg of wax placed in a crucible is subjected to a first temperature rise of -20. ° C at 120 ° C, at the heating rate of 10 ° C / minute, then is cooled from 120 ° C to -20 ° C at a cooling rate of 10 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second rise in temperature ranging from -20 ° C to 120 ° C at a heating rate of 5 ° C / minute. During the second rise in temperature, the following parameters are measured: the melting point (Tf) of the wax, as previously mentioned, corresponding to the temperature of the most endothermic peak of the observed melting curve, representing the variation of the the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature; AHf: the melting enthalpy of the wax corresponding to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained. This enthalpy of fusion of the wax is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The composition according to the invention may also contain at least one "pasty fatty substance".

The term "pasty fatty substance" (also referred to as "pasty") is understood to mean a lipophilic fat compound with a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising, at a temperature of 23 ° C., a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

In other words, the starting melting temperature of the pasty compound may be less than 23 ° C. The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 23 ° C. can represent 9 to 97% by weight of the compound. This liquid fraction at 23 ° C is preferably between 15 and 85%, more preferably between 40 and 85% by weight.

Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have an end-of-melting temperature of less than 60 ° C. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have a hardness less than or equal to 6 MPa. Preferably, the pasty fatty substances have in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization, visible by X-ray observations. For the purposes of the invention, the melting temperature corresponds to the temperature of the most endothermic peak observed in thermal analysis ( DSC) as described in ISO 11357-3; 1999. The melting point of a paste or a wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name "DSC Q2000" by the company TA Instruments . As regards the measurement of the melting temperature and the determination of the end-of-melting temperature, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: A sample of 5 mg of pasty fatty substance preheated to 80 ° C. and taken from below Magnetic stirring using an equally heated spatula is placed in an airtight aluminum capsule, or crucible. Two tests are carried out to ensure the reproducibility of the results. The measurements are carried out on the calorimeter aroused. The oven is subjected to a nitrogen sweep. Cooling is ensured by the RCS 90 heat exchanger.

The sample is then subjected to the following protocol by being first brought to a temperature of 20 ° C. and then subjected to a first temperature rise ranging from 20 ° C. to 80 ° C., at the heating rate of 5 ° C. / minute, then cooled from 80 ° C to -80 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute and finally subjected to a second temperature rise from -80 ° C to 80 ° C at a heating rate 5 ° C / minute. During the second temperature rise, the variation of the power difference absorbed by the empty crucible and the crucible containing the pasty or wax sample is measured as a function of temperature. The melting point of the compound is the value of the temperature corresponding to the peak apex of the curve representing the variation of the difference in power absorbed as a function of the temperature. The end of melting temperature corresponds to the temperature at which 95% of the sample melted. The liquid fraction by weight of the pasty compound at 23 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is the enthalpy consumed by the compound to pass from the solid state to the liquid state. The pasty compound is said to be in the solid state when the entirety of its mass is in crystalline solid form. The pasty compound is said to be in a liquid state when all of its mass is in liquid form. The heat of fusion of the pasty compound is equal to the integral of the whole of the melting curve obtained with the aid of the calorimeter evoked, with a rise in temperature of 5 or 10 ° C. per minute, according to the ISO standard. 11357-3: 1999. The enthalpy of fusion of the pasty compound is the amount of energy required to pass the compound from the solid state to the liquid state. It is expressed in J / g. The heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C is the amount of energy absorbed by the sample to change from the solid state to the state that it has at 23 ° C consisting of a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C is preferably 30 to 100% by weight of the compound, preferably 50 to 100%, more preferably 60 to 100% by weight of the compound. When the liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to 100%, the temperature of the end of the melting range of the pasty compound is less than or equal to 32 ° C.

The liquid fraction of the pasty compound measured at 32 ° C. is equal to the ratio of the enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. to the heat of fusion of the pasty compound. The enthalpy of fusion consumed at 32 ° C. is calculated in the same way as the heat of fusion consumed at 23 ° C. Regarding the hardness measurement, the sample preparation and measurement protocols are as follows: The pasty fat is placed in a mold 75 mm in diameter which is filled to about 75% of its height. In order to overcome the thermal past and control the crystallization, the mold is placed in the Vôtsch VC0018 programmable oven where it is first heated to 80 ° C for 60 minutes, then cooled from 80 ° C to 0 ° C at a cooling rate of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 0 ° C for 60 minutes, then subjected to a temperature rise from 0 ° C to 20 ° C, at a rate of heat of 5 ° C / minute, then left at the stabilized temperature of 20 ° C for 180 minutes. The compression force measurement is performed with Swantech TA / TX2i texturometer. The mobile used is chosen according to the texture: - mobile cylindrical steel 2 mm in diameter for very rigid raw materials; - Cylindrical 12 mm diameter steel mobile for inferior raw materials; The measurement comprises 3 steps: a first step after automatic detection of the surface of the sample where the mobile moves at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrates into the pasty fatty substance at a depth of penetration of 0.3 mm, the software records the value of the maximum force reached; a second so-called relaxation stage where the mobile stays at this position for one second and where the force is noted after 1 second of relaxation; finally a third step called withdrawal or the mobile returns to its initial position at the speed of 1 mm / s and note the energy withdrawal of the probe (negative force). The value of the hardness measured in the first step corresponds to the maximum compression force measured in Newton divided by the area of the cylinder of the texturometer expressed in mm 2 in contact with the pasty fatty substance. The hardness value obtained is expressed in mega pascals or MPa. STRUCTURING AGENT OF THE FATTY PHASE The composition comprises at least one polyamide resin and at least one gelling system comprising at least two lipophilic gelling agents, also called "organogelators", as structuring agents and of the fatty phase.

Preferably, the amount of structuring agents, comprising the polyamide resin and the gelling system, is between 17 and 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ORGANOGELATOR According to the invention, "an organogelling agent" is defined herein as comprising an organic compound whose molecules may be capable of establishing, among themselves, at least one physical interaction leading to a self-aggregation of the molecules with formation of a three-dimensional macromolecular network which may be responsible for the gelation of the liquid fatty phase. The network can result from the formation of a network of fibrils (due to the stacking or aggregation of organic gelling molecules), immobilizing the molecules of the liquid fatty phase. Depending on the nature of the organogelator, the interconnected fibrils have varying dimensions that can range from a few nanometers to 1 micron or even several micrometers. These fibrils may occasionally combine to form ribbons or columns. The term "gelling" means a structuring, or more generally a thickening of the medium which can lead according to the invention to a fluid consistency to pasty or solid. The ability to form this network of fibrils, and thus the gelling of the composition, depends on the nature (or chemical category) of the organogelling agent, the nature of the substituents carried by its molecules for a given chemical category, and the nature of the liquid fatty phase. For example, this gelation is reversible under the action of an external stimulus such as temperature.

Physical interactions are diverse but may include co-crystallization. These physical interactions are, for example, interactions chosen from among autocomplementary hydrogen interactions, 7C interactions between unsaturated nuclei, dipolar interactions, and coordination bonds with organometallic derivatives. The establishment of these interactions can often be favored by the architecture of the molecule, for example by nuclei, unsaturations, and the presence of asymmetric carbon. In general, each molecule of an organogelator can establish several types of physical interaction with a neighboring molecule. Thus, in one embodiment, the molecules of the organogelator according to the invention may comprise at least one group capable of establishing a hydrogen bond, for example at least two groups capable of establishing a hydrogen bond; at least one aromatic ring, for example at least two aromatic rings; at least one bond with ethylenic unsaturation; and / or at least one asymmetric carbon. The groups capable of forming a hydrogen bond may be selected, for example, from hydroxyl, carbonyl, amine, carboxylic acid, amide, benzyl, sulfonamide, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino and biguanidino groups. The organogellators of the invention can be solid or liquid at room temperature (20 ° C) and at atmospheric pressure. Among the lipophilic gelling agents, mention may be made of combinations of at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, especially chosen from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises an alkyl chain. linear C 6 to C 22 such as dibutylamide of lauroylglutamic acid (or "dibutyl lauroyl glutamide"), with at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide branched alkyl chain of low molecular weight, especially selected from dialkyl (C2-C6) Nacylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid (or "dibutylethylhexanoyl glutamide) and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two lipophilic gelling agents of low molecular weight. Preferably, the lipophilic gelling ratio chosen from dialkyl Nacylglutamides with a linear alkyl chain / lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl Nacylglutamide with a branched alkyl chain is between 1.5 and 5, preferably between 1.7 and 5. Preferably, the dialkyl N-acylglutamide with linear alkyl chain is used in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5% and more preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. Preferably, the branched alkyl chain dialkyl N-acylglutamide is used in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 10%, preferably 0.5 to 5%, more preferably 1.0 to 3.0% by weight per ratio to the total weight of the fat phase.

More preferably, the total amount of N-acylglutamic acid diamide lipophilic gelling agents of low molecular weight is preferably between 0.5 and 7% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. The lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide is sold or manufactured by the company AJINOMOTO under the name GP-1 by INCI name: Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide and N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid dibutylamide is sold or manufactured by the company AJINOMOTO under the name EB-21, INCI name: Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide. Such a compound is described in JP2005-298635. The solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the gelling agents is a protic solvent preferentially chosen, for example, from alcohols, monoalcohols, dialcohols, acids and esters. Preferably, the solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with the lipophilic gelling agents is chosen from C 2 -C 5 glycols such as propylene glycol, butylene glycols and pentene glycols. This solvent may also be chosen from octyldodecanol and isostearyl alcohol. The amount of solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds ranges from 3 to 50% by weight, preferably from 5 to 40%, more preferably from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the fatty phase. Preferably, the solvent is a fatty alcohol and is particularly chosen from fatty alcohols having a fatty chain length of between 12 and 28 carbon atoms, preferably between 14 and 22, and still more preferably between 16 and 20 carbon atoms. Even more preferentially, the solvent is a branched chain fatty alcohol. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one other lipophilic gelling agent. This other lipophilic gelling agent may be chosen from esters of dextrin and of fatty acids such as dextrin palmitates, especially such as those sold under the names Rheopearl TL® or Rheopearl KL® by the company Chiba Flour; hydroxyl fatty acids such as HYDROXYSTEARIC ACID, glycerol esters such as GLYCERYL BEHENATE / ISOSTEARATE / EICOSADIOATE.

POLYAMIDE RESIN The composition according to the invention comprises at least one polyamide resin chosen from hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and better still repeating units. For the purposes of the invention, the term "polyamide" means a compound having at least 2 amide repeating units, preferably at least 3 amide repeating units and more preferably 10 amide repeating units. Hydrocarbon Polyamide The term "hydrocarbon polyamide" is intended to mean a polyamide formed essentially or even consisting of carbon and hydrogen atoms, and possibly of oxygen, nitrogen and not containing a silicon atom. or fluorine. It may contain alcohol, ester, ether, carboxylic acid, amine and / or amide groups. For the purposes of the invention, the term "functionalized chains" means an alkyl chain comprising one or more functional groups or reactive groups chosen in particular from hydroxyl, ether, esters, oxyalkylene or polyoxyalkylene groups. Advantageously, this polyamide of the composition according to the invention has a weight average molecular weight of less than 100,000 g / mol, especially ranging from 1000 to 100,000 g / mol, in particular less than 50,000 g / mol, in particular ranging from 1,000. at 50 000 g / mol, and more particularly ranging from 1000 to 30 000 g / mol, preferably from 2000 to 20 000 g / mol, and better still from 2000 to 10 000 g / mol. This polyamide is insoluble in water, especially at 25 ° C. According to a first embodiment of the invention, the polyamide used is a polyamide of formula (I): X + CRC-NH-RNH + CR, CX II 2 II n OOOO (I) in which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 or a group -OR 'wherein R1 is a linear or branched Cg-C22 alkyl radical, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a di-C28-C42 dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5; - and their mixtures; According to a particular embodiment, the polyamide used is an amide-terminated polyamide of formula (Ia) II C 2 -X II n OOO (Ta) in which X represents a group -N (R 1) 2 in which R 1 is a linear alkyl radical or branched C8-C22, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5; - and their mixtures. As amide-terminated polyamide compounds such as those described in the application US2009 / 0280076, and in particular an amide-terminated polyamide of formula of formula (Ia) II C 2 -X II n 0 0 0 0 (Ia) in which X represents a group -N (R1) 2 in which R1 is a linear or branched C8 to C22, preferably C8 to C20, preferably C14 to C20 and preferably C14 to C18 and better still C18 alkyl radical, which may be identical or different from each other, R2 is a C28-C42 diacid dimer residue, preferably a dilinoleic acid dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5, preferably between 3 and 4; mention may be made of the compound of formula (Ia) whose INCI name is bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer. As a specific example of amide-terminated polyamide which may be used, mention may be made of the compound Haimalate PAM sold by the company Kokyu Alcohol Kogyo, which is in combination with diisostearyl malate and whose INCI name is diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecyl amide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer.

According to another embodiment of the invention, the polyamide is an amide-ester-terminated polyamide of formula (Ib) ## STR1 ## in which X represents a group -OR 'in which R 1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22, preferably C16 to C22, alkyl radical which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a di-C28-C42 dimer residue, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5. As compounds of polyamides of formula (Ib) II C 2 -X II n 0 0 0 0 (Ib) in which X represents a group -OR 'in which R 1 is a linear alkyl radical or branched C 6 to C 22, preferably C 16 to C 22, which may be the same or different from each other, R 2 is a C 28 -C 42 diacid dimer residue, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is between 2 and 5, mention may be made of the commercial products sold by Arizona Chemical under the names Uniclear 80 and Uniclear 100 or Uni clear 80 V, Uniclear 100 V and Uniclear 100 VG, whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer". They are sold respectively in the form of a gel containing 80% active ingredient in a mineral oil and 100% active ingredient. They have a softening point of 88 to 94 ° C. These commercial products are a mixture of copolymers of a C36 di-acid condensed on ethylene diamine, with a weight average molecular weight of about 6000 g / mol. The terminal ester groups result from the esterification of the remaining acid termini with cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol or mixtures thereof (also called cetylstearyl alcohol).

Preferably, the total amount of polyamide resin in the compositions used according to the invention is between 0.1% and 50% by weight, preferably between 2% and 45% by weight, or even better between 5% by weight. and 40% and preferably between 10 and 25% by weight of active material, relative to the total weight of the composition (limits included).

Advantageously, the total amount of structuring agents as defined above, present in the compositions used according to the invention, is between 0.1% and 60%, preferably between 2% and 50%, of preferred way between 5 and 40% and advantageously between 12 and 30% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of said composition. According to another embodiment of the invention, the polyamide is a silicone polyamide.

Silicone Polyamide The silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). The silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit of formula (III) or (IV): ## STR2 ## wherein R 4 is one of the following groups: ## STR5 ## (IV) in which: R4, R5, R6 and R7, which are identical or different, represent a group chosen from: linear or branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, in C1 to C40, saturated or unsaturated, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, which may be partially or completely substituted by fluorine atoms; C 6 -C 10 aryl groups, optionally substituted with one or more C 1 -C 6 alkyl groups; at C4, the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, the Xs, which may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched C1 to C30 alkylene di-yl group; , which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen atoms and / or nitrogen, Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 50, which may include one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or or nitrogen, and / or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C3-C8 cycloalkyl, C1-C40 alkyl, C5-C10 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 C 1 -C 3 alkyl, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamines, or Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R 8 T / in which - T represents a linear or branched trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group saturated or unsaturated C3-C24 optionally substituted by a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms selected from O, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a C1 to C50 alkyl group, linear or branched ié, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulphonamide groups which may or may not be linked to another polymer chain, n is an integer ranging from 2 at 500, preferably from 2 to 200 and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200. According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7, of the polymer are preferably selected from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl. In another embodiment, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7 of the polymer are methyl groups. According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally additionally having one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from: a) linear C 1 to C 20, preferably C 1 to C 10, alkylene groups, b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise unsubstituted rings and unsaturations, at C 30 to C 50, ) C 5 -C 6 cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups, e) C 1 to C 20 alkylene groups having from 1 to 5 amide groups, f) groups. C1 to C20 alkylene having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C3 to C8 cycloalkane, C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl and C6 to C6 aminoalkyl, and g) polyorganosiloxane chains of the formula: R5-R4 R4 SiO Si O R7 R6 R5 SiT 7 _m OR _ R5 -R4 28 1 R5 Si_ O Si O Si R7 R6 1 R7 In wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above. Such a unit can be obtained: either by a condensation reaction between a silicone having α, β-carboxylic acid ends and one or more diamines, according to the following reaction scheme: HOOC X R 4 R 5 X COOH + H 2 N Y NH 2 -) 1111 ## STR2 ## by reacting two molecules of α-unsaturated carboxylic acid with a diamine according to the following reaction scheme: cu.sub.2 = c11-Xi-cooll + FI2N-v-Nu2 CH2 = CH-Xi-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-Xi-CH = CH2 followed by the addition of a siloxane to the ethylenic unsaturations, according to the scheme following: CH2 = CH-X'-CO-NH-Y-NH-CO-X'-CH = CH2-R4 R5 i0 SiH + H R6 R7-R4-R5 i0 CO Si X CO NH Y NH n R6 R7 m in which X1- (CH2) 2- corresponds to the X defined above and Y, R4, R5, R6, R7 and m are as defined above, or by reaction of a silicone with ends a, e NH 2 and a diacid of formula HOOC-Y-COOH according to the following reaction scheme: R 4 R 5 Si SiO 2 NH 2 NH 2 + HOOC-Y-COOH R 6 In these silicone polyamides of formula (III) or (IV), m ranges from 1 to 700, in particular from 15 to 500 and in particular from 50 to 500. 200 and n is particularly preferably from 1 to 500, preferably from 1 to 100 and more preferably from 4 to 25, X is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain having 1 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular 1 to 20 carbon atoms, carbon, in particular of 5 to 15 carbon atoms and more particularly of 10 carbon atoms, and Y is preferably a linear or branched alkylene chain or which may comprise rings and / or unsaturations, having from 1 to 40 carbon atoms , in particular from 1 to 20 carbon atoms, and more preferably from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, in particular from 6 carbon atoms. In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements: 1 to 5 amide groups, urea, urethane or carbamate; C5 or C6 cycloalkyl group, and - a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C1 to C3 alkyl groups.

In the formulas (III) and (IV), the alkylene groups may also be substituted with at least one member selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group, a C3-C8 cycloalkyl group, one to three C1-alkyl groups at C40, a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C1 to C3 alkyl groups, a C1 to C3 hydroxyalkyl group, and a C1 to C6 aminoalkyl group. In these formulas (III) and (IV), Y may also represent: R8 where R8 represents a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T represents a group of formula: R13 (CH2), C (CH2) b OR (CH2) a N (CF12 ) 1) (CH2) c (CF12) c wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and Rn is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7. In the formulas (III) and (IV), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups. As has been seen previously, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (III) or (IV). Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (III) or (IV) of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to the formula (y) R 4 R 4 R 5 SiO Si XC (O) NH Y NH R 6 m IR 7 R 5 Wherein X, Y, n, R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, ml and m 2 which are different, are chosen in the range from 1 to 1000, and p is an integer ranging from 2 to 300. In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer . In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys. In this case, the polymer may have the formula VI: R 4 R 4 R 5 - R 5 (O) X SiO Si XC (O) NH Y NH C (O) X - SiO Si XC (O) NH Y NH 6 R m 17 R " m, 7 (VI) in which R4 to R7, X, Y, ml, m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Yi is different from Y but selected from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the different The patterns may be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer.

In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polyamide may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units can be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

In this case, the polymer may comprise at least one unit of formula (VII): ## STR2 ## in which X 1 and X 2, which are identical or different, have the same meaning. given for X in formula (III), n is as defined in formula (III), Y and T are as defined in formula (III), R14 to R2 'are groups selected from the same group as R4 to R7, ml and m2 are numbers in the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 500. In formula (VII), it is preferred that: p is from 1 to 25, more preferably 1 to 7, R 14 to R 2 'are methyl groups, T is one of the following formulas: R 23 C 23 R 24 R 24 R 22 R 25 R 25 R 25 R 23 Al R 24 R 25 in which R 22 is a hydrogen atom hydrogen or a group selected from the defined groups and R23, R24 and R25 for R4 to R7 are independently linear or branched alkylene groups, more preferably, the formula: R23 R24 R25, in particular with R23, R24 and R25 representing -CH2-CH2-, m1 and m2 are from 15 to 500, and more preferably from 15 to 45, X1 and X2 are - (CH2) 10-, and Y is - CH2.

As noted above, the siloxane units may be in the backbone or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer comprising units of formula (III) or (IV) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide.

According to a preferred embodiment, the silicone polyamide comprises units of formula III. Preferably, according to this embodiment, the groups R4, R5, R6 and R7 represent methyl groups, one of X and Y represents an alkylene group with 6 carbon atoms and the other an alkylene group with 11 carbon atoms. . n is an integer from 2 to 500, n represents the degree of polymerization DP of the polymer. By way of example of such silicone polyamides, mention may be made of the compounds marketed by Dow Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100) and DC 2-8178 (DP 15), the INCI name of which is "Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers "i.e. Nylon-611 / dimethicone copolymers. Advantageously, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of general formula (I) having an index m of value about 100. The index "m" corresponds to the degree of polymerization of the silicone portion of the polymer. More preferably, the composition used according to the invention comprises at least one polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (III) in which m ranges from 50 to 200, in particular from 75 to 150, and preferably from the order of More preferably, R4, R5, R6 and R7 independently represent a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group in formula (III). As an example of a silicone polymer that may be used, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained according to Examples 1 to 3 of US Pat. No. 5,981,680. According to one preferred embodiment, the polyamide silicone polymer marketed by Dow is used. Corning under the name DC 2-8179 (DP 100). The silicone polymers and / or copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

The silicone polyamide may be present in the composition in a total content ranging from 5% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 40% by weight, and better still ranging from 5% to 30% by weight, preferably ranging from 5 to 25% by weight of the total weight of said composition.

The silicone polymers and / or copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature in the liquid state of from 70 to 130 ° C and more preferably from 80 ° C to 105 ° C.

According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a structuring system comprising at least one: (i) polyamide of formula (I) X + CRC-NH-RNH + CR, CX II 2 II n 0 0 0 0 (Ib) ) in which X represents a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, preferably C16 to C22, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a dimer residue; C 28 -C 42 diacid, R 3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5 and (ii) a combination of a (C 2 -C 6) N-acylglutamide dialkyl in which the acyl group comprises a linear alkyl chain. Cs to C22 / preferably N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and a (C 2 -C 6) dialkyl N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched alkyl chain Cg to C22, preferably the dibutylamide of the N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid.

According to a preferred embodiment, the structuring system comprises an amide-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is "diisostearyl malate (and) bis-dioctadecylamide dimer dilinoleic acid / ethylene diamine copolymer" marketed by the company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO under the name Haimalate PAM, and a combination of N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid dibutylamide. According to another preferred embodiment, the structuring system comprises an ester-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer" sold by Arizona Chemical under the name Uniclear 100 VG, and a combination of N-lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and N-2-ethylhexanoylglutamic acid dibutylamide. FORM OF THE COMPOSITION The base of the composition according to the invention is solid, the resulting composition is advantageously a cosmetic product, preferably a stick for the lips. This may be in the form of a stick or poured into a cup for example. According to a preferred embodiment, it is a lipstick or a lip balm in the form of a stick.

Nacre Auxiliary Agents Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises less than 0.5%, better still less than 0.1%, and even better is free of nacres. Indeed, such nacres could compromise the transparent aspect advantageously sought after a composition according to the invention.

By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. The nacres can be chosen from pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with a dye. organic and pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs.

Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be used in the context of the present invention, mention may be made especially of gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

Advantageously, the fatty phase comprises less than 0.5%, better still less than 0.1%, and more preferably is free of fillers. Indeed, such charges could compromise the transparent aspect advantageously sought after a composition according to the invention.

By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition.

The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (Nylon®) (Orgasol® from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene powders, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon® ), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel® (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap®). Dow Corning Company) and silicone resin microspheres (Toshiba Tospearls®, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocyanate, hydroxyapatite, microspheres hollow silica (Silica Beads® from Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium stearate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate. Other Additional Cosmetic Ingredients The composition according to the invention may furthermore comprise any additional cosmetic ingredient that may be chosen in particular especially from sunscreens, film-forming agents, and mixtures thereof. Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional ingredients and / or their quantity so that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged. The composition according to the invention can be advantageously used for the make-up of the skin and / or the lips depending on the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the composition used according to the invention can be in the form of a solid foundation, lipstick or paste, lip balm, concealer, or eye contour, eye shadow. , body makeup product. In particular, the composition according to the invention may be in the form of a lip makeup product such as a lipstick, or a pencil, possibly having care or treatment properties. It can be in the form of an anhydrous stick. The composition according to the invention can be obtained by the process comprising the following steps: - mixing the oils and the polyamide resin, preferably at a temperature of the order of 100 to 125 ° C., verifying that the mixture obtained is homogeneous, - preparation of the gelling system, - introduction gelling system in the fatty phase containing the polyamide resin, - casting of the composition obtained in a packaging. The composition obtained is hot-cast, preferably at a temperature of between 95 ° C. and 115 ° C., in a package which is preferably a metal mold capable of providing it with the final shape (for example of a stick) and the whole can allowed to cool to room temperature or at -20 ° C, for example for 20 minutes to 1 hour. The composition used according to the invention is in particular a stick for the lips. The composition according to the invention may also be used as a bark composition in a core-shell product. The present invention also relates to a core-bark product comprising a first composition according to the invention forming the bark and a second composition different from the first composition forming the core. In this case, the core composition of the core-shell product comprises at least one oil. Volatile oil The core composition may comprise at least one volatile oil. The volatile oil may be a silicone oil, a hydrocarbon oil or a fluorinated oil. Non-volatile oils The core composition according to the invention may comprise at least one other non-volatile oil chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone and / or fluorinated oils, and preferably from hydrocarbon oils. In addition to the oils described above, the core composition may also comprise at least one fatty substance which is not liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure, called solid fatty substance, chosen from waxes and fatty substances. pasty.

Paste The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives; Vaseline, in particular the one whose INCI name is petrolatum and marketed under the name ULTIMA WHITE PET USP by Perenco, polyol ethers chosen from pentaerythritol ethers and polyalkylene glycol ethers, fatty alcohol ethers and of sugar, and mixtures thereof, pentaerythritol ether and polyethylene glycol comprising 5 oxyethylenated units (50E) (CTFA name: PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), pentaerythritol ether and polypropylene glycol comprising 5 oxypropylene units (5 OP ) (CTFA name: PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether), and their mixtures and more especially the mixture PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and soybean oil, sold under the name "Lanolide" by the company Vevy, mixture where the constituents are in a ratio by weight 46/46/8: 46% of PEG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether, 46% of PPG-5 Pentaerythrityl Ether and 8% of soybean oil. - Polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, - Polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, - Vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers and copolymers of olefins, - Homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, - Linear or branched oligomers, homopolymers or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates preferably having a C 8 -C 30 alkyl group, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100 diols, preferably C2-C50 diols, and / or mixtures thereof. The pasty compound is preferably a polymer, in particular a hydrocarbon polymer. Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or of propylene oxide with long-chain C 6 -C 30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxides in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 0E) marketed under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the esters of diglycerol, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, preferably such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 sold under the trademark Softisan 649 by the Sasol company, homopolymers of vinyl ester having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, such as polyvinyl laurate (in particular sold under the reference Mexomère PP by the company Chimex), arachidyl propionate sold under the trade name Waxenol 801 by Alzo, - phytosterol esters, - fatty acid triglycerides and their derivatives, such as, for example, fatty acid triglycerides, especially C10-C18, partially or totally hydrogenated such as those sold under the reference Softisan 100 by the company Sasol, - the pentaerythritol esters - the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a dicarboxylic acid or a polycarboxylic acid linear or branched C4-050 and a diol or a polyol C2-050, - the ester aliphatic esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid. Preferably, the aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; E) partial or total esters of C 2 to C 16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono- or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof; esters of diol dimer and diacid dimer, if appropriate, esterified on their function (s) alcohol (s) or acid (s) free (s) by acidic radicals or alcohols, especially dimer dilinoleate esters, such esters may be chosen in particular from the following INCI nomenclature esters : bis-behenyl / isostearyl / phytosteryl dimerdilinoleyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool G), phytosteryl / isosteryl / cetyl / stearyl / behenyl dimerdilinoleate (Plandool H or Plandool S), and mixtures thereof, - mango butter, such as that marketed under the reference Lipex 203 by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN, - hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, mixtures of hydrogenated vegetable oils such as the vegetable oil mixture hydrogenated soy, coconut, palm and rapeseed slab, for example the mixture marketed under the Akogel® reference by the company AARHUSKARLSHAMN (INCI name Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil), - shea butter, in particular the one whose INCI name is Butyrospermum Parkii Butter , such as that marketed under the reference Sheasoft® by AARHUSKARLSHAMN, and mixtures thereof. Among the pasty compounds, bishephenyl isostearyl / phytosteryl dimeric dilinoleyl, bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2, dimerized hydrogenated castor oil dilinoleate, for example RISOCAST-DA-L sold by KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, are preferably chosen. hydrogenated castor oil isostearate for example SALACOS HCIS (VL) sold by NISSHIN OIL, polyvinyl laurate, mango butter, shea butter, hydrogenated soybean oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated rapeseed oil, vinylpyrrolidone / eicosene copolymers or their mixture. Waxes The waxes that may be used in the core composition are chosen from waxes which are solid, at room temperature of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. As an illustration of the waxes that are suitable for the core composition, there may be mentioned hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax, and Chinese insect waxes, rice bran wax, and Carnauba wax. Candellila wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, berry wax, shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes (such as the one sold under the reference Microwax HW by Paramelt), paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes such as those sold under the name Performalene 500-L and Performalene 400 by New Phase Technologies, the waxes obtained by the Fisher-Tropsch synthesis. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50®, sunflower oil hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name Hest 2T-4S® by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64® and 22L73® by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in the application FR-A-2792190. As wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms) can be used, alone or as a mixture . Such a wax is in particular sold under the names "Kester Wax K 82 P" Hydroxypolyester K 82 P "and" Kester Wax K 80 P ", and" Kester Wax K 82 H "by the company KO S TER KEUNEN. Advantageously, the core composition comprises at least one filler, especially in a total content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the core composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% in weight. Structuring agent / thickener The core composition may comprise, in addition to the waxes possibly present, at least one structuring agent chosen from lipophilic gelling agents and mixtures thereof.

Lipophilic Gelling Agents According to one embodiment, the core composition may comprise at least one gelling agent. The gelling agents that may be used in the compositions according to the invention may be organic or inorganic, polymeric or molecular lipophilic gelling agents.

Advantageously, the core comprises the same gelling system as the bark. According to a first variant, the core comprises at least one compound chosen from pasty fatty substances, waxes, fillers and their mixtures. According to a second variant, the core comprises the same gelling system as the bark and at least one pasty fatty substance.

Preferably the core comprises at least 0.01% by weight, better still 0.1% by weight of dyestuff relative to the total weight of the composition, for example a content ranging from 0.01 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. According to one particular embodiment, the second composition, that is to say the core composition, comprises a combination of at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, especially chosen from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) N acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of lauroylglutamic acid (or "dibutyl lauroyl glutamide"), with at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide having a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain , especially chosen from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched chain Cg to C22 alkyl such as dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid (or "dibutyl ethylhexanoyl glutamide) and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents and it comprises at least 0.01% of at least one dyestuff.

The present invention further relates to a method of care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips in which said product is applied to the skin and / or the lips and also the use of said product for the care and / or the makeup of the skin and / or lips and in particular to moisturize the skin and / or the lips, especially as a lipstick.

The following examples are given for illustrative and non-limiting purposes of the present invention. Percentages are percentages by weight.

Examples The composition was obtained according to the following method. In a first beaker, the components of phase A were mixed at a temperature between 95 and 115 ° C until a homogeneous mixture.

In another beaker, the constituents of phase B were mixed at a temperature between 115 and 125 ° C until a homogeneous and transparent mixture was obtained. Phase B was introduced into the fatty phase A with magnetic stirring or Rayneri.

The compositions obtained were then cast in a mold and allowed to cool in order to obtain sticks with a diameter of 12.7 mm. The percentages are given by weight of active ingredient. Example 1: transparent stick Phase Name% A ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER (UNICLEAR 100VG) 17.00 A ISOEICOSANE 18.75 A TRIDECYL TRIMELLITATE 23.00 AIS ONONYL IS ONONANO ATE 26.06 B ISOSTEARYL ALCOHOL 11.35 B DIBUTYL ETHYLHEXANOYL GLUTAMIDE (EB 21) 1.27 B DIBUTYL LAUROYL GLUTAMIDE (GP 1) 2.57 100 The stick obtained has a shear of 99.5 GF. The colorless and transparent visual effect is obtained. Example 2: Bark core stick with transparent bark and white heart The stick was prepared using the composition below as a core composition and the composition of Example 1 as a bark composition: Name% BUTYROSPERMUM PARKII SHEA) BUTTER 3.80 DIBUTYL ethylhexanoyl glutamide 1.27 Isopropyl Myristate 12.47 TITANIUM DIOXIDE 0.1 isostearyl ALCOHOL 11.35 VP / hexadecene Copolymer 3.17 DIBUTYL LAUROYL glutamide 2.57 pentaerythrityl Tetra-DI-T-bUTYL 0.17 hydroxyhydrocinnamate diisostearyl MALATE 3.81 CITRIC ACID qs PETROLATUM 10.17 34.10 POLYBUTENE ETHYLENEDIAMINE / STEARYL DIMER 17 DILINOLEATE COPOLYMER The application of these sticks is comfortable thanks to their sliding properties and their creamy texture.

Claims (17)

REVENDICATIONS1. A solid, anhydrous and transparent composition comprising: at least one polyamide resin; at least one gelling system comprising a combination of at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with a linear low molecular weight alkyl chain, chosen in particular from dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain with at least one lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamides with a low molecular weight branched alkyl chain, chosen in particular from the group consisting of dialkyl (C2-C6) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two low molecular weight lipophilic gelling agents, and - at least one nonvolatile polar oil, at least one apolar nonvolatile oil in an amount of less than 35% by weight relative to the total weight al of the composition. 2. Composition according to claim 1 wherein the polyamide resin is selected from hydrocarbon polyamides and silicone polyamides. 3. A composition according to claim 1 or 2 wherein the polyamide is a polyamide of the formula (I) X ± CRC-NH-RNH + CR, CX II 2 II n O 0 OO (I) wherein X is a group - N (R1) 2 or a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, which may be the same or different from each other, R2 is a C28-diacid dimer residue; C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5. A composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the linear alkyl chain dialkyl N-acylglutamide is lauroylglutamic acid dibutylamide and the branched alkyl dialkyl N-acylglutamide is N-acid dibutylamide. 2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the lipophilic gelling ratio chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a linear alkyl chain / lipophilic gelling agent chosen from dialkyl N-acylglutamide with a branched alkyl chain is between 1.7 and 5. . 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising at least one: (i) polyamide of formula (Ib) X ± CRC-NH-RNH + CR, CX II 2 II n 0 0 0 0 (Ib) in which X represents a group -OR 'in which R1 is a linear or branched Cg to C22 alkyl radical, preferably C16 to C22, which may be identical to or different from each other, R2 is a C28-diacid dimer residue; C42, R3 is an ethylene diamine radical, n is 2 to 5 and (ii) a combination of a (C2-C6) N-acylglutamide dialkyl in which the acyl group comprises a linear C6 to C22 alkyl chain, lauroylglutamic and - a (C 2 -C 6) dialkyl N-acylglutamide wherein the acyl group comprises a branched alkyl chain Cg to C22, preferably dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid. 7. Composition according to the preceding claim comprising an ester-terminated polyamide, preferably the compound whose INCI name is "ethylenediamine / stearyl dimer dilinoleate copolymer", and a combination of dibutylamide of Nlauroylglutamic acid and dibutylamide of N-acid. -2-ethylhexanoyl-glutamic acid. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims comprising less than 22%, preferably less than 20% by weight of non-volatile oil (s) non-polar (s) relative to the total weight of the composition. 9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the non-volatile non-volatile oil is chosen from linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, such as chosen from paraffin oil or its derivatives, squalane, isoeicosane, vaseline oil, naphthalene oil, polybutylenes, preferably N-polyisobutylenes dibutylamide, decene / butene copolymers, polybutene / polyisobutene copolymers, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes and mixtures thereof and preferably isoeicosane. 10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 characterized in that it is free of hydrogenated polydecenes. 11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the non-volatile polar oil is a hydrocarbon oil selected from ester oils, alcohol oils and mixtures thereof. 12. Composition according to the preceding claim wherein the volatile non-polar oil is chosen from isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, tridecyl trimellitate and diisostearyl malate, octadodecanol and isosteral alcohol. 13. Composition according to claim 11 or 12, characterized in that it contains at least 60% by weight, preferably at least 70% by weight, preferably at least 80% by weight and more preferably at least 90% by weight. % by weight of non-volatile hydrocarbon oil (s) relative to the total weight of said composition. 14. A core-bark product comprising a first composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims forming the bark and a second composition different from the first core-forming composition. 15. Product according to the preceding claim wherein the second composition comprises: a combination of at least one linear alkyl chain dialkyl N-acylglutamide of low molecular weight, especially selected from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) N-acylglutamides in wherein the acyl group comprises a linear Cg to C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of lauroylglutamic acid, with at least one dialkyl N-acylglutamide branched alkyl chain of low molecular weight, especially selected from dialkyl (C 2 -C 6) ) N-acylglutamides in which the acyl group comprises a branched Cg to C22 alkyl chain such as dibutylamide of N-2-ethylhexanoyl glutamic acid and preferably with a solvent capable of forming hydrogen bonds with these two lipophilic gelling agents. low molecular weight, and at least 0.01% of at least one dyestuff. 16. A method of care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips in which the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 or the product according to any one of claims 14 or 15 is applied to the skin. and / or the lips. 17. Use of the composition according to any one of claims 1 to 13 or the product according to any one of claims 14 or 15 for the care and / or makeup of the skin and / or lips and more particularly in as long as lip stick.