FR2924603A1 - Molded anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably in stick form, useful for make-up and/or care of lips and as lipstick e.g. lip balm/lip gloss, comprises dispersion of a quantity of hydrophilic active agent particles in a fatty phase - Google Patents

Abstract

Molded anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick for lip make-up and/or care, comprises a dispersion of a quantity of hydrophilic active agent particles in a fatty phase, where the composition is stabilized by an effective quantity of at least a dispersant adsorbed on the surface of the particles, the dispersant is e.g. 8-30C aliphatic alcohols, surfactants and polymers, and the hydrophilic active agent is e.g. derivatives of C-glycoside, hydroxyalkylurea, and/or salicylic acid derivatives, in a medium. Molded anhydrous cosmetic composition, preferably in the form of a stick for lip make-up and/or care comprises a dispersion of a quantity of hydrophilic active agent particles in a fatty phase, where the composition is stabilized by an effective quantity of at least a dispersant adsorbed on the surface of the particles, the dispersant is 8-30C aliphatic alcohols, hydrocarbon dispersants, surfactants, polymers comprising at least one imide or succinimide group linked by a covalent chain with hydrocarbon polymer chain of molecular weight of at least 600, and the hydrophilic active agent is derivatives of C-glycoside, hydroxyalkylurea, 4-(2-hydroxyethyl)piperazin-1-ethanesulfonic acid (HEPES) and/or salicylic acid derivatives, in a medium.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions for makeup and / or care of the lips. In particular, the present invention relates to anhydrous cosmetic compositions comprising a dispersion of at least one hydrophilic active agent in a liquid fatty phase. The invention also relates to a cosmetic treatment method for makeup and / or care of the lips using such a cosmetic composition. Conventionally, the cosmetic makeup compositions of the lips must provide a film with a number of qualities whether in terms of behavior or aesthetic effect. Thus, this film must have a good water resistance, a good resistance to friction, good sliding properties and good flexibility properties, and in some cases be able to provide a brilliant effect. This film must also be comfortable to apply, and maintain this comfort effect over time. Because of these requirements, the formulations of these compositions generally comprise a significant proportion of fat phase and lipophilic compounds, which make it possible to obtain a flexible, resistant, glossy and comfortable makeup film. However, users are increasingly seeking, in parallel, cosmetic compositions which not only provide the above-mentioned qualities, but also a care effect, for example against drying out, temperature variations or aging of the lips. A composition intended to be applied to the lips, whether makeup or not, must therefore have a repairing activity or strengthening of the lips vis-à-vis the attacks they may suffer. It therefore becomes necessary to be able to vector active agents through these compositions in order to endow them with properties which, beyond the immediate effects of appeasement or make-up, would bring the benefit of the active agents thus diffused and regularly applied. However, many active agents that may be of interest for the care and / or makeup of the lips are hydrophilic in nature.

Obtaining the effect linked to the presence of the hydrophilic active agent requires the possibility of introducing this agent in a sufficient quantity into the make-up composition and thus of formulating them in the presence of a large aqueous phase. Indeed, the hydrophilic nature of the active agents of interest makes them difficult to formulate in anhydrous fatty phases. And their modification in order to make them lipophilic could impair their effectiveness, directly related to their structure, and also to their bioavailability. However, the presence of an aqueous phase in a large proportion tends to make unstable cosmetic compositions comprising a high proportion of fat phase. This instability can result in phenomena of phase shift and exudation over time. More particularly, the presence of a large amount of water makes it difficult to formulate in the solid state and maintain in this form compositions comprising a high content of fat phases.

The compositions for care and / or makeup of the lips must also be anhydrous in order, on the one hand, to ensure optimum comfort and hydration and, on the other hand, to avoid the presence of a phase likely to evaporate. Indeed, the use of volatile compound involves ensuring a tightness of the packaging to preserve over time the expected properties of the products containing them. Therefore, there is a need to be able to formulate anhydrous, fluid or solid dispersions comprising an effective amount of hydrophilic active in a fatty phase. There is also a need for cosmetic compositions combining the makeup effects resulting from the presence of fatty phases and the care effects resulting from the presence of the hydrophilic active agents. The object of the present invention is to satisfy these needs. According to a first subject, the present invention relates to an anhydrous composition for makeup and / or care of the lips comprising in a physiologically acceptable medium a dispersion of an effective amount of particles of at least one hydrophilic active agent in a fatty phase. said composition being stabilized by an effective amount of at least one dispersing agent adsorbed on the surface of said particles. According to another object, the present invention relates to a molded anhydrous cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a stick for makeup and / or care of the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a dispersion of an effective amount of particles of at least one hydrophilic active agent in a fatty phase, said composition being stabilized by an effective amount of at least one dispersing agent adsorbed on the surface of said particles, said dispersing agent being chosen from C 8 -C 20 aliphatic alcohols, hydrocarbon dispersing agents of non-zero polarity, surfactants, polymers comprising at least one imide or succinimide group covalently linked to a polymeric hydrocarbon chain of molecular weight of at least 600, and said hydrophilic active agent being chosen from C-glycoside derivatives, hydroxyalkylurea derivatives, HEPES, salic acid derivatives ylique, and their mixtures.

Surprisingly, the inventors have observed that it is possible to obtain a stable anhydrous composition comprising hydrophilic active agents dispersed in a fatty phase by adsorbing dispersing agents on the surface of the hydrophilic active agent particles. According to the present invention, the term "sufficient quantity" is understood to mean an amount of a given substance which makes it possible to obtain a required effect, namely in the context of the invention, the stabilization of hydrophilic particles in a hydrophobic medium. According to the present invention, dispersion is understood to mean a homogeneous mixture of particles in a continuous phase, for example a fatty phase. The particles may be solid or liquid particles.

According to another object, the subject of the present invention is a use of at least one dispersing agent in an amount effective in the preparation of an anhydrous dispersion of particles of a hydrophilic active agent in a fatty phase in order to confer on said dispersion a improved stability. Such a dispersion can be used in the preparation of a composition of the invention.

According to yet another subject, the present invention relates to a process for makeup and / or care of the lips comprising applying to said lips at least one layer of a composition of the invention.

DISPERSION A composition of the invention contains particles of hydrophilic active agents, dispersed in a physiologically acceptable medium and introduced into the composition in the form of a dispersion. The particles of hydrophilic active agents can be solid or liquid.

According to one embodiment, the particles of the hydrophilic active agent (s) that are suitable for the invention may have an average diameter in size of less than 10 m, in particular ranging from 0.2 nm to 5 m, in particular varying from 1 nm at 500 nm, and more particularly, ranging from 2 nm to 200 nm.

DISPERSING AGENT A dispersing agent suitable for the invention protects the dispersed particles against their agglomeration or flocculation. A dispersing agent may be a surfactant, an oligomer, a polymer or a mixture of several of them, bearing one or more functionalities having a strong affinity for the surface of the particles to be dispersed. In particular, a dispersing agent according to the invention is not glycerol or castor oil. In particular, they can cling physically to the surface of the particles to be dispersed.

A dispersing agent may also have at least one functional group that is compatible or soluble in the continuous medium, in particular the fatty phase. According to one embodiment, a dispersing agent that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon dispersing agents of non-zero polarity, surfactants, polymers comprising at least one imide or succinimide group covalently bonded to a hydrocarbon-based chain. of molecular weight of at least 600, aliphatic C 8 -C 30 alcohols, and mixtures thereof.

A dispersing agent that is suitable for the invention may be a polymer comprising at least one imide or succinimide group covalently bonded to a polymer chain compatible with the continuous phase of the dispersion, in particular the fatty phase. The imide or succinimide group or groups may be lateral or terminal groups, preferably terminal groups. By compatible polymer chain is meant a polymer or oligomeric chain soluble in the continuous phase of the dispersion. According to one embodiment, the polymer chain has a molecular weight of at least 600 and in particular, ranging from 1000 to 1500.

The polymer chains that are particularly suitable for the invention may be polyolefins, such as polyethylenes, polypropylenes and polyisobutenes and other poly-olefins. Particularly preferred polymer chains are polyisobutylenes. The dispersing agents that are suitable for the invention may be polymers obtained by condensation of an amine with a succinic anhydride having a saturated or unsaturated hydrocarbon chain, the synthesis of which is described in US Pat. No. 3,172,892, the contents of which are incorporated by reference. The dispersing agents that are suitable for the invention may be polyisobutylenes comprising at least one succinimide group, in particular a succinimide end group. These dispersing agents include a polymeric hydrocarbon chain with a molecular weight of at least 600, and in particular ranging from 1000 to 1500. Such dispersing agents are described in US Pat. Nos. 3,172,892 and 3,235,484, known as LUBRIZOL. content is incorporated by reference. In particular, a dispersing agent that is suitable for the invention is LUBRIZOL 0517134. A dispersing agent that is suitable for the invention may also be a non-volatile liquid hydrocarbon dispersing agent of non-zero polarity, and in particular of a polarity such as 2, 00 (J / cm3) 1/2 <6a <9.08 (J / cm3) 1/2, and more particularly 5.00 (J / cm3) 1/2 <6a <6.80 (J / cm3) 1 A dispersing agent suitable for the invention may be a mixture of hydrocarbon dispersing agents as defined above.

It is within the abilities of those skilled in the art to determine the amounts of each nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbon dispersant to obtain a mixture of dispersing agents suitable for the invention. By way of example of nonvolatile liquid hydrocarbon dispersing agent of non-zero polarity suitable for the invention, mention may be made of diisostearyl malate, mono or polyol of polyols, such as polyglyceryl monoisostearate, diisostearate of diglyceryl or diglyceryl triisostearate or poly (hydroxy-12) stearic acids, and mixtures thereof. Mention may also be made of 12-hydroxystearic acid esters, C 8 -C 20 fatty acid esters and polyol esters such as glycerol or diglycerine, for example poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) stearate. with a molecular weight of approximately 750, such as the product sold under the name Solsperse 21 000 by the company Avecia, the 2-polyglyceryl dipolyhydroxystearate (CTFA name) sold under the reference Dehymyls PGPH by the company Henkel, or also the polyhydroxystearic acid , such as that sold under the reference Arlacel P100 by Uniqema, and mixtures thereof. As dispersing agent that is suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of surfactants. A surfactant which is suitable for the invention may be chosen from ionic, anionic, cationic and nonionic surfactants, and mixtures thereof.

For the choice of these surfactants, reference can be made to the document Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, pages 333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, particularly at pages 347-377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

For example, the following nonionic surfactants are suitable: the alkyl esters or glycerol or polyglycerol ethers consisting of 1 to 10 glycerol units and at least one alkyl chain (acid for the esters and alcohol for ethers) having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. It can be saturated or unsaturated and branched or not. By way of example, mention may be made of Nikkol DGMS (diglycerol monostearate), Nikkol decaglyn 21 S (decaglycerol diisostearate), hexadecyl ether of triglycerol, - mixed esters of fatty acids or of fatty alcohol , of carboxylic acid and of glyceryl, chosen, for example, from mixed esters of fatty acid or of C 6 -C 22 fatty alcohol and of alpha-hydroxy acid and / or of succinic acid with glycerine and their mixtures . By way of example, mention may be made of the mixed ester of glycerine and of the mixture of citric, lactic, linoleic and oleic acid (CTFA name: glyceryl citrate / lactate / linoleate / oleate) marketed by the company Hüls under the name Imwitor 375; the mixed ester of succinic acid and isostearyl alcohol with glycerin (CTFA name: Isostearyl diglyceryl succinate) marketed by the company Huls under the name Imwitor 780 K; the mixed ester of citric acid and stearic acid with glycerol (CTFA name: glyceryl stearate citrate) sold by Hüls under the name Imwitor 370; the mixed ester of lactic acid and of stearic acid with glycerin (CTFA name: Glyceryl stearate lactate) marketed by Danisco under the name Lactodan B30 or Rylo LA30, ethoxylated fatty ethers or ethoxylated fatty esters comprising from 2 to 50 units of ethylene oxide and at least one alkyl chain (acid for the esters, and alcohol for the ethers) having 12 to 22 carbon atoms. It can be saturated or unsaturated and branched or not. By way of example, mention may be made of the Brij series (ethoxylated fatty alcohols) marketed by Uniqema, the Myrj series (ethoxylated stearates) marketed by Uniqema and the PEG400 isostearate also marketed by Uniqema; sorbitan fat, oxyethylenated or not. They comprise at least one sorbitan unit and in the case where they are oxyethylenated, from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide units, and at least one alkyl chain (fatty acid) having from 12 to 22 carbon atoms. It can be saturated or unsaturated and branched or not. By way of example, mention may be made of the series of Span (sorbitan esters) and Tween (oxyethylenated sorbitan esters) marketed by Uniqema, and the fatty esters of sugar or sugar fatty ethers. The surfactant used is, for example, selected from C 8 to C 22 fatty acid esters of sucrose, maltose, glucose and fructose, C 14 to C 22 fatty acid esters of methylglucose, alkylpolyglucosides and mixtures thereof. The alkyl chain (s) may be saturated or unsaturated and branched or unbranched.

The fatty acids C8-C22 or C14-C22 forming the fatty unit of the esters that can be used in the invention comprise at least one linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising respectively 8 to 22 or 14 to 22 carbon atoms. . The fatty unit of the esters may in particular be chosen from stearates, behenates, arachidonates, palmitates, myristates, laurates, caprates and their mixtures. In particular, it is possible to use stearates. Examples of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and sucrose, maltose, glucose or fructose, sucrose monostearate, sucrose distearate, sucrose tristearate and the like. mixtures thereof, such as the products marketed by Croda under the name Crodest® F50, F70, F110, F160; and as an example of esters or mixtures of fatty acid esters and methylglucose, methyl glucose and polyglycerol-3 distearate sold by Goldschmidt under the trade name Tego-care 450. Mention may also be made of glucose or maltose monoesters, such as methyl o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-glucoside and o-hexadecanoyl-6-D-maltoside. The fatty alcohol and sugar ethers which may be used as surfactants in the composition according to the invention may be chosen in particular from the group comprising ethers or mixtures of C 8 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and of glucose and maltose. , sucrose or fructose and the ethers or mixtures of C 14 -C 22 fatty alcohol ethers and methylglucose. These are in particular alkylpolyglucosides. The C8-C22 or C14-C22 fatty alcohols forming the fatty unit of the ethers that can be used according to the invention comprise a linear saturated or unsaturated alkyl chain, comprising respectively from 8 to 22 or from 14 to 22 carbon atoms. The fatty unit of the ethers may especially be chosen from decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl and hexadecanoyl radicals, and mixtures thereof, such as the cetearyl radical. As examples of fatty alcohol ethers and sugar, there may be mentioned alkylpolyglucosides, such as decyl glucoside and lauryl glucoside marketed, for example, by Henkel under the names Plantaren 2000 and Plantaren 1200 respectively. cetostearyl glucoside, optionally mixed with cetostearyl alcohol, sold for example under the name Montanov 68 by the company Seppic, under the name Tego-care CG90 by the company Goldschmidt and under the name Emulgade KE3302 by Henkel, and arachidyl glucoside, for example in the form of the mixture of arachidic and behenic alcohols and arachidyl glucoside sold under the name Montanov 202 by the company Seppic, the block copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene. The block copolymers of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide that can be used as surfactants in the compositions according to the invention can be chosen in particular from block copolymers of formula (A): HO (C2H4O) X (C3H6O) v ( C2H4O) zH (A) wherein x, y and z are integers such that x + z may range from 2 to 280 and may range from 14 to 100. These polymers are especially marketed under the name Pluronic or Lutrol by BASF, Symperonic by Uniqema, - soy or egg lecithins, hydrogenated or not, enriched in phosphatidylcholine or not, and - silicone surfactants comprising at least one oxyethylenated and / or oxypropylene chain. By way of example, those described in patents US Pat. No. 5,364,633 and US Pat. No. 5,411,744, the content of which is incorporated by reference, and for example a compound of formula (I), may be mentioned: ## STR1 ## If R 3 B in which: R 1, R 2, R 3, independently of each other, represent a C 1 -C 6 alkyl radical or a radical - (CH 2) X (OCH 2 CH 2) y- (OCH 2 CH 2 CH 2) z OR 4, at least one radical; R1, R2 or R3 not being an alkyl radical; R4 being a hydrogen, an alkyl radical or an acyl radical; A is an integer from 0 to 200; B is an integer from 0 to 50, provided that A and B are not zero at the same time; x is an integer from 1 to 6; CH 3 RI-SiO CH 3 CH 3 R 2 CH 3 (I) y is an integer ranging from 1 to 30; z is an integer ranging from 0 to 5. According to a particular embodiment, in the compound of formula (I), the alkyl radical is a methyl radical, x is an integer ranging from 2 to 6 and y is a integer ranging from 4 to 30. Examples of silicone surfactants of formula (I) include the compounds of formula (II): (CH 3) 3 SiO - [(CH 3) 2 SiO] A - (CH 3 SiO) B - Si (CH3) 3 (II) (CH2) 2- (OCH2CH2) y-OH

Wherein A is an integer from 20 to 105, B is an integer from 2 to 10 and y is an integer from 10 to 20. Mention may also be made, by way of example, of silicone surfactants of the formula (I), compounds of formula (III): HO- (CH2CH2O) y- (CH2) 3 - [(CH3) 2SiO] A '- (CH2) 3- (OCH2CH2) y-OH

wherein A 'and y are integers from 10 to 20. Compounds sold by Dow Corning under the names DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 and Q4-3667 can be used as compounds. Compounds DC 5329, DC 7439-146, DC 2-5695 are compounds of formula (II) wherein A is 22, B is 2 and Y is 12, respectively; A is 103, B is 10 and y is 12; A is 27, B is 3 and y is 12. Compound Q4-3667 is a compound of formula (III) where A is and y is 13. But also: - alkyl ether citrates, - alkoxylated alkenyl succinates alkoxylated glucose alkenyl succinates, and alkoxylated methylglucose alkenyl succinates.

The ionic, anionic or cationic surfactants may be chosen from: anionic amphiphilic lipids, such as: the alkaline salts of dicetyl and dimyristyl phosphate, the alkaline salts of cholesterol sulfate, the alkaline salts of cholesterol phosphate, lipoamino acids and their salts, such as mono- and disodium acylglutamates such as the disodium salt of N-stearoyl L-glutamic acid sold under the name Amisoft HS21P by the company Ajinomoto, the sodium salts of phosphatidic acid, phospholipids, and alkylsulphonic derivatives in particular of formula: ## STR1 ## in which R represents C16-C22 alkyl radicals, in particular R 1 -CO-O- (C 1 -C 3 -CH 2 SO 3 M); the radicals C16H33 and C18H37 taken as a mixture or separately and M is an alkali or alkaline earth metal, such as sodium, cationic amphiphilic lipids of the quaternary ammonium salt type, fatty amines and their salts, for example e: - quaternary ammonium salts of general formula (IV) below: + R1. R3 -N. R 2, R 4 X- (IV) in which the radicals R 1, R 2, R 3 and R 4 may be identical or different, represent a linear or branched aliphatic radical containing from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical, such as as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may contain heteroatoms, such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from alkyl, alkoxy, polyoxyalkylene (C 2 -C 6), alkylamide, (C 12 -C 22) alkylamido (C 2 -C 6) alkyl, (C 12 -C 22) alkyl acetate, hydroxyalkyl, with about 1 to 30 carbon atoms; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C2-C6) alkyl sulfates, alkyl or alkylarylsulfonates. As quaternary ammonium salts of formula (IV), on the one hand tetraalkylammonium chlorides, for example dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides, in which the alkyl radical contains approximately from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred. in particular, behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyldimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or, on the other hand, stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl) ammonium chloride chloride sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the company VAN DYK, the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazolinium, for instance those of the following formula (V): ## STR2 ## in which R 5 represents an alkenyl radical or alkyl having 8 to 30 carbon atoms, for example derived from tallow fatty acids; R6 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing 8 to 30 carbon atoms; R7 represents an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R8 represents a hydrogen atom, an alkyl radical having 1 to 4 carbon atoms; X is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylarylsulphonates. R 5 and R 6 may denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R 7 denotes a methyl radical, R 8 denotes hydrogen. Such a product is, for example, sold under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company REWO, - the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (VI) below: ## STR2 ## wherein R 9 denotes a radical aliphatic having about 16 to 30 carbon atoms; R 10, R 11, R 12, R 13, and R 14 are selected from hydrogen or an alkyl radical having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates. Such quaternary diammonium salts include, in particular, propane dichloride, diammonium dichloride. + X- (V) + + 2X - the quaternary ammonium derivatives of polycondensed fatty acids, such as, for example, the Solsperse 17 000 sold by the company Avecia. As dispersing agent that is suitable for the invention, mention may also be made of mixtures of polydimethylsiloxane / oxypropylene, such as those sold by the company Dow Corning under the references DC2-5185, DC2-5225 C. As dispersing agent suitable for the the invention may also be mentioned aliphatic fatty alcohols. An aliphatic fatty alcohol suitable for the invention may comprise from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 10 to 26 carbon atoms, in particular from 12 to 24 carbon atoms, and more particularly from 16 to 22 carbon atoms. carbon atoms. An aliphatic alcohol suitable for the invention is in particular liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.). An aliphatic alcohol suitable for the invention may be linear, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated. The aliphatic alcohol may be advantageously branched and saturated. An aliphatic alcohol of the invention may comprise, in particular, a single alcohol function and is not substituted by other functional groups. An alcohol which can be used according to the invention may comprise a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 8 to C 30 or C 10 to C 26 alkyl chain. The alkyl chain may especially be chosen from octyl, decyl, cetyl, behenyl, arachidyl, stearyl, palmityl, myristyl, lauryl, capryl, hexadecanoyl and octyldodecyl radicals. An aliphatic alcohol that is suitable for the invention may especially be chosen from 2-octyl-dodecanol, 2-undecylpenta-decanol, and mixtures thereof. An aliphatic alcohol of the invention may in particular be a branched alcohol comprising two aliphatic chains of substantially equal lengths. An aliphatic alcohol may advantageously be a branched alcohol comprising 20 carbon atoms.

According to one embodiment, the polydihydroxystearic acid and the hydroxyl2-stearic acid esters are particularly suitable for a hydrocarbon or fluorinated medium, and the dimethylsiloxane oxyethylene / oxypropylene mixtures are particularly suitable for a silicone medium.

According to one particular embodiment, a dispersing agent may be chosen from 2-octyldodecanol, diisostearyl malate, polyglycerol-2 monoisostearate, polydihydrostearic acid, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid and of C8-C20 fatty acid and esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid and of polyols, mixtures of oxyethylenated / oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane, and mixtures thereof. According to one embodiment, a dispersing agent may be present in a composition of the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40%, in particular from 0.5 to 30%, and more particularly from 0.5 to 30%. at 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

PHYSIOLOGICALLY ACCEPTABLE MEDIUM Physiologically acceptable medium is intended to mean a medium that is particularly suitable for applying a composition of the invention to the lips.

The physiologically acceptable medium is generally adapted to the nature of the medium to which the composition is to be applied, as well as to the appearance under which the composition is to be packaged. A composition of the invention may be in the form of paste, solid or cream.

A composition of the invention may be in the form of an anhydrous emulsion. For the purposes of the invention, the term "anhydrous" means a composition comprising less than 3% by weight of aqueous phase, in particular less than 2% by weight, in particular less than 1% by weight of aqueous phase relative to the weight. total of the composition. For the purposes of the invention, the term "hydrophilic polar phase" means a phase comprising at least one water-miscible organic solvent, optionally mixed with water. The hydrophilic polar phase is distinct from the hydrophilic active agents considered in the invention. As examples of water-miscible organic solvents, mention may be made of C 1 -C 8 monoalcohols, in particular of C 1 -C 5, and especially of ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol, n-butanol or polyols such as C2-C8 glycols, especially pentylene glycol and propylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes, C2-C6 polyhydric alcohols, such as glycerine, and mixtures thereof. Such a composition may, however, include traces of water resulting, where appropriate, from the hygroscopic nature of the compounds present therein. A composition of the invention may be, in particular, prepared in cast form, in particular as a stick or stick, in the form of a flexible paste in a hot-water bottle, or in the form of a cup. A cast composition is devoid of the flowability under the action of its own weight, as opposed to so-called fluid compositions. These compositions are characterized by a pasty appearance at room temperature (20-25 ° C). Such a composition may have a solid or semi-solid appearance obtained, in general, after the cooling of a composition introduced in the molten state into a mold.

Greasy phase A composition of the invention comprises a fatty phase which may, in particular, be a liquid fatty phase. A cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises a liquid fatty phase comprising in particular an oily fatty phase.

According to one embodiment, a liquid fatty phase that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils, silicone oils, volatile or nonvolatile fluorinated oils, and mixtures thereof. The term "oil" means any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure.

A composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase in a content ranging from 10% to 95%, in particular from 20% to 90% and more particularly from 30% to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. An oily phase suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may comprise hydrocarbon, silicone, fluorinated or non-fluorinated oils or mixtures thereof. The oils can be volatile or nonvolatile. They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil, which is liquid at ambient temperature, having, in particular, a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure, in particular, having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40,000. Pa (10-3 at 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 at 10 mm Hg). For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "silicone oil" means an oil comprising at least one atom of silicon, and in particular at least one Si-O group. The term "fluorinated oil" means an oil comprising at least one fluorine atom. The term "hydrocarbon oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms. The oils may optionally comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms, for example in the form of hydroxyl or acid radicals.

Volatile oils Volatile oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4 , 4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example, the oils sold under the tradenames of ISOPARS or PERMETHYLS. As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having from 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As the volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made, in particular, of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use fluorinated volatile oils, such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane, and mixtures thereof.

Nonvolatile oils Nonvolatile oils may in particular be chosen from hydrocarbon oils, fluorinated oils and / or nonvolatile silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, hydrocarbon oils of plant origin, such as phytostearyl esters, such as phytostearyl oleate, isostearate of physostearyl and lauroyl / octyldodecyl glutamate / phytostearyl (AJINOMOTO, ELDEW PS203), triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and glycerol, in particular, whose fatty acids may have chain lengths ranging from C4 to C36, and in particular from C18 to C36, these oils being linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils may in particular be heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor oil, shea butter, avocado, olive oil, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; shea butter; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by the company STEARINERIES DUBOIS or those sold under the names MIGLYOL 810, 812 and 818 by the company DYNAMIT NOBEL, synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms synthetic esters, such as the oils of formula R1000R2, in which R1 represents a residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, in particular, branched, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R1 + R2 is 10. The esters may be, in particular, selected from alcohol and fatty acid esters, for example: • cetostearyl octanoate, esters of alcohol isopropyl, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, ethyl palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, stearate octyl, the hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate, diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and in particular isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols, such as propylene dioctanoate; glycol, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol diethyl-2-hexanoate and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, hexyl laurate, neopentanoic acid esters, such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, neopentanoate, and the like. octyldocecyl, esters of isononanoic acid, such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters, such as isostearyl lactate and di-isostearyl malate; ; the esters of diol dimers and diacid dimers, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7, marketed by the company NIPPON FINE CHEMICAL and described in application US 2004-175338, the contents of which are incorporated in the present application by reference, - copolymers of polyols and diacid dimers, and their esters, such as Hailuscent ISDA, - branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as 2-octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, and 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher C12-C22 fatty acids, such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and mixtures thereof, and 10-di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains being identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC by COGNIS, - the oils a high molecular weight having, in particular, a molar mass of from about 400 to about 10,000, in particular from about 650 to about 10,000, in particular from about 750 to about 7500, and more particularly, varying from from about 1000 to about 5000. As oil of high molar mass used in the present invention, there may be mentioned oils selected from: • lipophilic polymers, such as polybutylenes, polyisobutylenes, polydecenes and hydrogenated polydecenes, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone; hydroxylated esters, such as polyglycerol-2-triisostearate; aromatic esters, such as tridecyl trimellitate; esters of C24-C28 branched fatty alcohols or fatty acids, such as pentaerythritol esters, dimeric diol esters and polyesters, such as diol dimer and fatty acid esters, and dimer diol and diacid esters, such as Lusplan DD-DA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7 • silicone oils, such as phenyl silicones, such as BELSIL PDM 1000, • oils of vegetable origin, such as sesame oil, - and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. of carbon, phenyl silicones, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicones, with a viscosity of less than or equal to 100 cSt , and mixtures thereof LIPOPHILIC STRUCTURING AGENT According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise a liquid fatty phase structured by an effective amount of at least one lipophilic structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds and their mixtures. mixtures.

According to another embodiment, a composition of the invention may comprise a lipophilic structuring agent in a content ranging from 0.1 to 60%, in particular from 1 to 50%, and more particularly from 5 to 45% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

Wax (s) A composition of the invention may comprise at least one wax. A wax which is suitable for the invention is generally a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. go up to 200 ° C and in particular up to 120 ° C. A wax suitable for the invention may have a melting point greater than or equal to 45 ° C, and in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C. A wax that may be used in a composition of the invention may be chosen from solid waxes at room temperature, of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin, and mixtures thereof. Illustrative waxes suitable for the invention include hydrocarbon waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes; rice bran wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricury wax, Alfa wax, Berry wax, Shellac wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax; Montan wax, orange and lemon waxes, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers, as well as their esters. There may also be mentioned waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned isomerized jojoba oil, such as isomerically hydrogenated partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by DESERT WHALE under the trade reference Iso-Jojoba-50, the oil hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil, hydrogenated lanolin oil, and di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the trade name Hest 2T-4S by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes (C30-45 ALKYL DIMETHICONE) and fluorinated waxes. It is also possible to use the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with cetyl alcohol sold under the names Phytowax Ricin 16L64 and 22L73 by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190.

As the wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in admixture, can be used. Such a wax is in particular sold under the names Kester Wax K 82 P, Hydroxypolyester K 82 P and Kester Wax K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.

As microwaves that can be used in a composition of the invention, there may be mentioned in particular carnauba microwaxes, such as that sold under the name MicroCare 350 by the company Micro Powders, synthetic wax microwaxes, such as that marketed under the named MicroEase 114S by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and polyethylene wax, such as those sold under the names of Micro Care 300 and 310 by the company MICRO POWDERS, microwaxes consisting of a mixture of carnauba wax and synthetic wax such as that marketed under the name Micro Care 325 by the company Micro Powders, polyethylene microwires, such as those sold under the names Micropoly 200, 220, 220L and 250S by the company MICRO POWDERS company and polytetrafluoroethylene micro-waxes, such as those marketed under the names Microslip 519 and 519 L by the company MICRO POWDERS. According to a particular embodiment, a wax that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from jojoba wax, a microcrystalline wax, a polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof.

Paste compounds A composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty compound which may advantageously be chosen from: lanolin and its derivatives, polymeric or non-polymeric silicone compounds, polymeric or non-polymeric fluorinated compounds, vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins, copolymers of olefins, homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes, linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates, preferably having an alkyl group, C 8 -C 30, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups, and homo- and copolymer oligomers of vinyl ethers having C 8 -C 30 alkyl groups; liposoluble polyethers resulting from polyetherification between one or more C 2 -C 10 diols, preferably C 2 -C 50 diols, fatty acid or fatty alcohol esters, and mixtures thereof. Among the esters, the following are particularly preferred: esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular diglycerol esters, in particular adipic acid and glycerol condensates, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids, such as stearic acid, capric acid, isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, such as those marketed under the trade name Softisan 649 by Sasol or, such as bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, arachidyl propionate sold under the trademark Waxenol 801 by Alzo, phytosterol esters, triglycerides of fatty acids and their derivatives, such as hydrogenated cocoglycerides, the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C2-050 diol or polyol; the resulting ester aliphatic esters; esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid, - polyesters resulting from the esterification, by a polycarboxylic acid, of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester, said ester comprising at least two hydroxyl groups, such as Risocast DA-H products, and Risocast DA-L, and mixtures thereof. According to yet another embodiment, a pasty compound that is suitable for the invention may be chosen from bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides and hydrogenated lecithin, and mixtures thereof.

ACTIVE AGENT A composition of the invention comprises at least one hydrophilic active agent. For the purposes of the invention, the term "active agent" means a substance capable of initiating, on the part of the biological tissues in which it is applied (or administered), a response whose effect is prolonged after its elimination from the tissues. Such an effect generally results from the extrinsic properties of the substance to be specifically activated and / or inhibited by intracellular and / or extracellular signals from the cells of the tissue. Thus, are excluded from this definition substances, for example, glycerin type whose activity, for example, moisturizing, is exerted only by their intrinsic properties, for example, their hygroscopic property, and only as long as they are present at the level of biological tissues. According to one embodiment, a hydrophilic active agent that is suitable for the invention may for example be chosen from C-glycoside derivatives, hydroxyalkylurea derivatives, HEPES, salicylic acid derivatives and mixtures thereof. A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention may advantageously make it possible to confer on the compositions of the invention anti-aging skincare properties, in particular by exerting, for a prolonged period of time, an effect of moisturizing the skin and filling the skin with wrinkles.

A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention may have a following general formula (I): in which: R represents a linear, saturated C 1 -C 20, in particular C 2 -C 10, alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl radical; or unsaturated C 2 -C 20, in particular C 3 -C 10, branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated, C 3 -C 20, in particular C 4 -C 10, a phenyl or benzyl radical: said radical may optionally be interrupted with one or more heteroatoms selected from oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen, and silicon, and which may optionally be substituted by at least one radical selected from OR ', -SRI, -NR1R2, -COOR1, -CONHR1, -CN, a halogen atom, a perfluoroalkyl or C 1 -C 6 hydrofluoroalkyl radical, a C 3 -C 6 cycloalkyl or heterocyclic radical or a C 6 -C 10 aryl radical, optionally substituted, with R 1 and R2 identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical, a rad alkyl, perfluoroalkyl or hydrofluoroalkyl, linear, saturated C 1 -C 30, in particular C 2 -C 12, or unsaturated C 2 -C 30, in particular C 3 -C 12 or branched or cyclic, saturated or unsaturated C 3 -C 30; in particular, at C4-C12, or a C6-C10 aryl radical, - X represents a radical chosen from: -C (O) -, -CH (NR3R4) -, -CHR5-, -C (= CHR5) - - with R3, R4 and R5 identical or different, representing a hydrogen atom, a hydroxyl radical or a radical R, as defined above, - S represents a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide up to 20 sugar units, in pyranose form and and / or furanose, and L and / or D series, - the bond S-CH2-X represents a bond of C-anomeric nature, in particular of type a or 13, and more particularly of type 13, as well as its physiologically acceptable salts , and its optical and / or geometric isomers, alone or as a mixture. The optical and / or geometric isomers, as well as the physiologically acceptable salts of the C-glycoside derivatives corresponding to formula (I) may be used alone or as a mixture in any proportion.

According to one embodiment, R may denote a linear radical C1-C4, in particular C1-C3, optionally substituted with -OH, -COOH or -COOR6, R6 being a saturated C1-C4 alkyl radical, especially methyl. According to one embodiment of the invention, X may represent a radical chosen from -C (O) -, -CH (OH) -, -CH (NR1R2) -, -CHR3-, -C (= CHR3) -, and may especially represent a radical -C (O) -, -CH2-, -CH (OH) -, and -CH (NH2) -. According to one embodiment, S may represent a mono or a polysaccharide that may have at least one free hydroxyl function. According to another embodiment, a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide 10 suitable for the invention may, optionally, comprise one or more amine function (s), optionally protected (s). According to one embodiment, S can represent a monosaccharide or a polysaccharide having up to 6 units of sugars. According to one embodiment, S may represent a monosaccharide selected from D-glucose, D-galactose, D-mannose, D-xylose, D-lyxose, L-fucose, D-fucose, L-arabinose, D-maltose, L-rhamnose, D-glucuronic acid, D-galacturonic acid, D-iduronic acid, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine and N-acetyl-D -galactosamine. According to one embodiment, S may represent a polysaccharide containing up to 6 sugar units, in particular, chosen from D-maltose, D-lactose, D-cellobiose and D-maltotriose, a disaccharide associating a uronic acid. selected from D-iduronic acid or D-glucuronic acid with a hexosamine selected from D-galactosamine, D-glucosamine, N-acetyl-D-galactosamine, N-acetyl-D-glucosamine, an oligosaccharide containing at least one xylose selected from xylobiose, which is composed of two 1-4-linked xylose molecules, methyl- (3-xylobioside, xylotriose, xylotetraose, xylopentaose and xylohexaose). In one embodiment, the C-glycoside derivatives corresponding to formula (I) may be of natural or synthetic origin, totally or partially purified, or any preparation containing them.A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for the invention may in particular be obtained by the method of synthesis decri in WO 02/051828.

By natural origin is meant a C-glycoside derivative extracted from a natural material in which it is present, for example, plants. By synthetic origin is meant a C-glycoside derivative prepared by chemical synthesis or by biotechnology. The term "totally or partially purified" means here that, during its synthesis or in relation to its natural state (fresh or dried plant or cells), a C-glycoside derivative corresponding to formula (I) has been concentrated and / or has been removed, respectively, at least a portion of the secondary reaction products from its synthesis or at least a portion of the other constituents of the natural material in which it is present.

The salts of the C-glycoside derivatives suitable for the invention may comprise conventional physiologically acceptable salts of these compounds, such as those formed from organic or inorganic acids. By way of example, mention may be made of mineral acid salts, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of organic acid salts, which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid groups. They may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may furthermore comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. A C-glycoside derivative that is suitable for use in the invention may especially be hydroxypropyl of tetrahydropyrantriol, also called C-f3-D-xylopyranoside-2-hydroxypropane, especially sold in solution at 30% by weight in a mixture of water and propylene glycol. / 40 (v / v) under the trade name Mexoryl SBB. The amount of C-glycoside derivative to be used in a composition according to the invention depends on the desired aesthetic and / or repairing effect, and can therefore vary to a large extent. Those skilled in the art can easily, on the basis of their general knowledge, determine the appropriate quantities. A composition according to the invention may comprise a C-glycoside derivative in a proportion of about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight of active material relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight of C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition, and more particularly from about 0.05 to about 5% by weight of C-glycoside relative to the total weight of the composition.

HEPES or 4 - (- 2hydroxyethyl) piperazin-1-ethanesulforic acid is advantageously used as desquamating agent. It exerts its effect especially by acting on enzymes involved in desquamation or degradation of corneodesmosomes, such as glycosidases or stratum corneum chymotryptic enzyme (SCCE).

A derivative of the hydroxyalkylurea suitable for the invention may have the following formula (I): NCO R2 (I) in which: R1, R2, R3 and R4 each represent, independently of one another, an atom hydrogen, a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group or a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group which may contain 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups and wherein at least one of R 1 to R 4 is hydroxyalkyl, and salts and isomers thereof. In particular, R 1 can denote a C 2 -C 6 hydroxyalkyl group and R 2, R 3 and R 4 may denote, independently of one another, a hydrogen atom or a C 1 -C 4 alkyl group.

According to an alternative embodiment, R1 may designate a C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl group comprising from 1 to 5 hydroxyl groups, in particular 1 hydroxyl group, and R2, R3 and R4 may designate a hydrogen atom. In another embodiment, R 1 may denote a C 2 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl group comprising 1 hydroxyl group, and in particular R 2, R 3, R 4 may denote a hydrogen atom. R4 N R3 Among the alkyl groups, there may be mentioned methyl, ethyl, n-propyl, isopropyl, n-butyl, isobutyl and tert-butyl groups. Among the hydroxyalkyl groups, those containing a single hydroxyl group and in particular hydroxyethyl, hydroxypropyl, hydroxybutyl, hydroxypentyl and hydroxyhexyl groups are preferred. Among the salts, mention may be made of the salts of mineral acids, such as sulfuric acid, hydrochloric acid, hydrobromic acid, hydroiodic acid, phosphoric acid and boric acid. Mention may also be made of organic acid salts, which may comprise one or more carboxylic acid, sulphonic acid or phosphonic acid groups. It may be linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic acids or aromatic acids. These acids may furthermore comprise one or more heteroatoms chosen from O and N, for example in the form of hydroxyl groups. These include propionic acid, acetic acid, terephthalic acid, citric acid and tartaric acid. Suitable hydroxyalkylurea derivatives of the invention include N- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea; N- (2-hydroxypropyl) urea; N- (3-hydroxypropyl) urea; N- (2,3-dihydroxypropyl) urea; N- (2,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxyhexyl) urea; N-methyl-N- (1,3,4,5,6-pentahydroxy-2-hexyl) -urea; N-methyl-N '- (1-hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl) urea; N- (1-hydroxy-2-methyl-2-propyl) urea; N- (1,3-dihydroxy-2-propyl) urea; N- (tris-hydroxymethyl-methyl) -urea; N-ethyl-N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea; N, N-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea; N, N'-bis (2-hydroxyethyl) urea; N, N-bis (2-hydroxypropyl) urea; N, N'-bis (2-hydroxypropyl) urea; N, N-Bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N'-propyl-urea; N, N-Bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) -N '- (2-hydroxyethyl) -urea; N-tert.Butyl-N '- (2- (hydroxyethyl) -N' - (2- (hydroxypropyl) -urea; N- (1,3-dihydroxy-2-propyl) -N '- (2) hydroxyethyl) urea, N, N-Bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N ', N'-dimethylurea, N, N, N', N'-tetrakis (2-hydroxyethyl) -urea; N ', N'-Bis- (2-hydroxyethyl) -N', N'-bis- (2-hydroxypropyl) -urea, and mixtures thereof, In particular, the hydroxyalkylurea derivative is N- (2 Hydroxyalkylurea derivatives which are suitable for the invention are also described in DE-A-2703185, of which N- (2-hydroxyethyl) urea is also available in The trade, in the form of a mixture of 50% by weight in water, from the company National Starch under the trade name Hydrovance.

The derivatives of the hydroxyalkylurea may be present in the compositions according to the invention in a content ranging from 1% to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 2% to 25% by weight. and preferably, ranging from 2% to 20% by weight.

A salicylic acid derivative that is suitable for the invention may be of formula (I) below:

0, OH C in which:

the radical R denotes an aliphatic chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms, saturated, linear, branched or cyclic; an unsaturated chain having 2 to 22 carbon atoms containing one or more conjugatable double bonds; an aromatic ring bonded to the carbonyl radical directly or via saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chains having 2 to 7 carbon atoms; said groups being capable of being substituted by one or more substituents, which may be identical or different, chosen from (a) the halogen atoms (b) the trifluoromethyl group; (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R 'is a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: ## STR2 ## in which R 1 denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated aliphatic chain containing from 1 to 18 carbon atoms, and their salts derived from a mineral base. (I) The salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) that can be used according to the invention are described in patents US 6,159,479 and US 5,558,871, FR 2,581,542, US 4,767,750, EP 378,936, US 5,267,407, US 5,667,789 and US 5,580,549. EP-A-570,230, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

According to one embodiment, the radical R may designate a saturated, linear, branched or cyclic aliphatic chain containing from 3 to 11 carbon atoms; an unsaturated chain containing from 3 to 17 carbon atoms and comprising one or more conjugated or non-conjugated double bonds; said hydrocarbon chains may be substituted by one or more substituents, identical or different, selected from (a) halogen atoms, (b) trifluoromethyl group, (c) hydroxyl groups in free form or esterified with an acid having 1 to 6 carbon atoms or (d) a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

R 'can be a hydroxyl group or an ester group of formula: ## STR2 ## in which R 1 denotes an O- (C = O) - (CH 2) n -CH 3 radical where n is a number ranging from 0 to 14; as well as their salts obtained by salification with a mineral base.

The compounds more particularly considered are those in which the radical R can be a C 3 -C 11 alkyl group and R 'denotes a hydroxyl.

Other compounds of particular interest are those in which R represents a chain derived from linoleic, linolenic or oleic acid.

Another group of particularly preferred compounds consists of compounds in which the radical R denotes a C 3 -C 11 alkyl group bearing a carboxyl function in free form or esterified with a lower alcohol having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms and R 'denotes a hydroxyl group.

More particularly, n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid (or capryloyl salicylic acid) manufactured under the trade name Mexoryl SAB by the company Chimex will be used.

The salts of the salicylic acid derivatives of formula (I) are obtained by salification with a mineral base. As an example of a mineral base, it is possible to use alkali metal or alkaline earth metal hydroxides, such as sodium hydroxide or potassium hydroxide. In the compositions of the invention, the concentration of salicylic compound of formula (I) can vary from 0.001 to 20%, in particular from 0.01 to 15%, and more particularly from 0.05 to 5% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition. According to another embodiment, a composition may also comprise at least one lipophilic active agent. Such agents are known to those skilled in the art and are implemented so as not to substantially affect the properties, especially, cosmetic and stability properties of the compositions of the invention.

COLORING MATERIAL According to one embodiment, a composition of the invention may further comprise at least one dyestuff. A dyestuff may for example be chosen from organic or inorganic dyestuffs, in particular of the pigment or nacre type, conventionally used in cosmetic, liposoluble or water-soluble compositions, of materials having a specific optical effect and mixtures thereof. The term "pigments" means white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the resulting film. The pigments may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 15% by weight, especially from 0.01 to 10% by weight, and in particular from 0.02 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition. . As mineral pigments which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of titanium, zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc, iron or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet and ultramarine blue. chromium hydrate. It may also be a pigment having a structure which may for example be sericite / brown iron oxide / titanium dioxide / silica. Such a pigment is marketed for example under the reference COVERLEAF NS or JS by CHEMICALS AND CATALYSTS and has a contrast ratio of about 30.

The coloring material may also comprise a pigment having a structure which may be, for example, silica microspheres containing iron oxide. An example of a pigment having this structure is that marketed by MIYOSHI under the reference PC BALL PC-LL-100P, this pigment consisting of silica microspheres containing yellow iron oxide. Among the organic pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum or diketo pyrrolopyrrole (DPP) lacquers. ) described in EP-A-542669 (or US 5,989,453), EP-A-787730 (or US 5,750,723), EP-A-787731 (or US 5,847,156) and WO-A-96/08537.

By nacres, it is necessary to understand colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

The nacres may be chosen from pearlescent pigments, such as iron oxide coated titanium mica, titanium mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with a organic dye, as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. Mention may also be made, by way of example of nacres, of natural mica coated with titanium oxide, with iron oxide, with natural pigment or with bismuth oxychloride. Among the nacres available on the market, mention may be made of mother-of-pearl TIMICA, FLAMENCO and DUOCHROME (based on mica) marketed by ENGELHARD, TIMIRON pearls marketed by MERCK, mother-of-pearl containing PRESTIGE mica marketed by the company. ECKART and nacres based on SUNSHINE synthetic mica sold by the company SUN CHEMICAL. The nacres may more particularly have a color or a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or coppery reflection.

As an illustration of the nacres that may be used in the context of the present invention, mention may especially be made of gold-colored nacres, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne) ), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the red-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents, in particular, marketed by Engelhard under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glare, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres, in particular, sold by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with gold reflection, sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), blue pearls, in particular, sold by MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), white nacres with silvery reflection, in particular, sold by the company Merck under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green orange-colored mother-of-pearl, in particular, marketed by MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their mixtures.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also comprise water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes. Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, DC Red 17, DC Green 6, [3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2, Orange DC 5 quinoline yellow Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice and methylene blue.

The cosmetic composition according to the invention may also contain at least one material with a specific optical effect.

This effect is different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say unified and stabilized, as produced by conventional dyes, such as monochromatic pigments. In the sense of the invention, stabilized means devoid of color variability effect with the angle of observation or in response to a change in temperature. For example, this material may be chosen from particles with a metallic sheen, goniochromatic coloring agents, diffractive pigments, thermochromic agents, optical brighteners, as well as fibers, in particular interferential fibers. Of course, these different materials can be combined to provide the simultaneous manifestation of two effects, or even a new effect according to the invention. The particles with a metallic sheen that can be used in the invention are in particular chosen from: particles of at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative; particles comprising a substrate, organic or inorganic, monomatiere or multimaterial at least partially covered by at least one metal-reflecting layer comprising at least one metal and / or at least one metal derivative, and the mixtures of said particles. Among the metals that may be present in said particles, there may be mentioned, for example, Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Ni, Sn, Mg, Cr, Mo, Ti, Zr, Pt, Va, Rb, W, Zn, Ge. , Te, Se and their mixtures or alloys. Ag, Au, Cu, Al, Zn, Ni, Mo, Cr, and mixtures or alloys thereof (eg, bronzes and brasses) are preferred metals. The term "metal derivatives" denotes compounds derived from metals, in particular oxides, fluorides, chlorides and sulphides. As an illustration of these particles, mention may be made of aluminum particles, such as those sold under the names STARBRITE 1200. EAC by the company SIBERLINE and METALURE by the company ECKART. Mention may also be made of copper metal powders or alloy mixtures such as the references 2844 sold by the company Radium Bronze, metallic pigments such as aluminum or bronze, such as those sold under the names ROTOSAFE 700 from the company ECKART the silica-coated aluminum particles marketed under the name VISIONAIRE BRIGHT SILVER by ECKART and the metal alloy particles such as bronze powders (copper and zinc alloy) coated with silica marketed under the name of Visionaire Bright Natural Gold from Eckart. It may also be particles comprising a glass substrate such as those marketed by the company NIPPON SHEET GLASS under the names MICROGLASS METASHINE. The goniochromatic coloring agent may be chosen, for example, from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures that can be used in compositions produced in accordance with the invention are, for example, the following structures: Al / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Al, pigments having this structure being marketed by the company DUPONT DE NEMOURS; Cr / MgF 2 / Al / MgF 2 / Cr, pigments having this structure being marketed under the name CHROMAFLAIR by the company FLEX; MoS2 / SiO2 / Al / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, and Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; pigments having these structures being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2; SnO / TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 / SnO; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / Fe2O3; SnO / mica / TiO 2 / SiO 2 / TiO 2 / mica / SnO, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). By way of example, these pigments may be the pigments of silica / titania / tin oxide structure sold under the name Xirona Magic by the company Merck, the silica / brown iron oxide structural pigments marketed under the name XIRONA. INDIAN SUMMER by MERCK and the structural pigments silica / titanium oxide / mica / tin oxide marketed under the name XIRONA CARRIBEAN BLUE by the company MERCK. Mention may also be made of the INFINITE COLORS pigments from SHISEIDO. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Thus, with the Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Al / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 structure, grey-green to gray-red is passed for SiO 2 layers of 320 to 350 nm; from red to golden for SiO2 layers of 380 to 400 nm; from violet to green for SiO2 layers from 410 to 420 nm; from copper to red for SiO2 layers from 430 to 440 nm.

Mention may be made, by way of example of pigments with a polymeric multilayer structure, those marketed by the company 3M under the name COLOR GLITTER. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, it is possible to use, for example, those sold by CHENIX, as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE HC by WACKER.

ADDITIVES A cosmetic composition according to the invention may also furthermore comprise any additive usually used in the field of interest, chosen from gelling agents, fillers, film-forming agents and, if appropriate, film-forming auxiliaries, gums and semi-synthetic polymers. crystalline agents, antioxidants, essential oils, preservatives, fragrances, neutralizers, antiseptics, UV protective agents, and mixtures thereof.

It falls within the routine operations of those skilled in the art to adjust the nature and amount of the additives present in the compositions according to the invention so that the desired cosmetic properties and hardness properties of the latter are not affected. A composition according to the invention may, in particular, be in the form of a composition for makeup and / or care of the lips, in particular in the form of a stick or a stick, and more particularly, in the form of a lipstick, a lip balm or a gloss. According to a particular embodiment, a composition of the invention may be a lipstick.

A composition of the invention can be obtained by any preparation method known to those skilled in the art.

The present invention will be better understood in its various aspects by the following examples.

These examples are given solely by way of illustration of the invention and should not be interpreted as limiting in any way the invention.

EXAMPLE Example 1 Lipstick Compounds Example 1A Example 1B A - Tridecyl Trimerlylate Phase 4,4 4,4 Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / 1,6 1,6 hexadecene marketed or manufactured by ISP under the reference Antaron V-216 Copolymer of vinylpyrrolidone / 1-0.8 0.8 eicosene marketed or manufactured by the company ISP under the reference Antaron V-220 bis diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2. 1.6 1.6 BHT 0.04 0.04 Polyglucoyl-2-triisostearate 3.4 3.4 Cetyl dimethicone copolyol-10 Polyglycerol-2 monoisostearate 10 - Isononyl isononanoate 10 10 B-Polyethylene wax (MM = 500 g / mol) 6.6 6.6 Octa-cosanyl stearate 5.5 5.5 C- Red 21 0.06 0.06 Red 7 0.2 0.2 Iron oxides 2.2 2.2 C'-Ethylene methacrylate copolymer 1 1 lauryl glycoUmethacrylate manufactured or marketed under the reference Polytrap 603 by the company Advanced Polymer Systems N-lauroyl L-lysine 2.5 2.5 Kaolin 5 5 D-hydrogenated Isoparaffin manufactured or qs qsp sold under the reference 100 100 Parléam by the company Nippon Oil and Fats manufactured hydrogenated polyisobutene or 8.5 8.5 marketed under the reference Panalane H-300E by the company Amoco Chemical Phenyltrimethicone marketed or 12 12 manufactured by Dow Corning under reference DC 556 Pyrogenic silica 3 3 E Hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol * 0.7 0.7 - Mica oxide titanium 1.8 1.8 * sold under the reference Mexoryl SBB 375 Operating Procedure The pigments (phase C) and the fillers (phase C ') are ground in phase A. In parallel, a silica gel is prepared (phase D) by mixing the silica in hydrogenated isoparaffin, phenyltrimethicone and hydrogenated polyisobutene.

Then the ground material (phases A + C + C '), as well as the silica gel (phase D) and the waxes (phase B), are added to a skillet and heated at 100 ° C. for 2 hours and homogenized. Finally, mother-of-pearl (phase E) and the active ingredient are added to the mixture which is poured into a mold to make lipsticks with a diameter of 8 mm. The mold is then placed at 20 ° C. for half an hour, then the sticks are demolded.

Claims (20)

Anhydrous molded cosmetic composition, in particular in the form of a stick for makeup and / or care of the lips comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a dispersion of an effective amount of particles of at least one agent hydrophilic active agent in a fatty phase, said composition being stabilized by an effective amount of at least one dispersing agent adsorbed on the surface of said particles, said dispersing agent being selected from C 8 -C 30 aliphatic alcohols, non-polar hydrocarbon dispersing agents; none, surfactants, polymers comprising at least one imide or succinimide group covalently linked to a polymeric hydrocarbon chain of molecular weight of at least 600, and said hydrophilic active agent being selected from C-glycoside derivatives, hydroxyalkylurea derivatives, HEPES, salicylic acid derivatives, and mixtures thereof. 2. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the particles of said active agent has an average diameter in size less than 10 m, in particular ranging from 0.2 nm to 5 m, in particular ranging from 1 nm to 500 nm, and more particularly, ranging from 2 nm to 200 nm. 3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersion represents from 0.05 to 60% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 40%, in particular from 0.5 to 20% and more. particularly, from 1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersing agent is chosen from 2-octyl-dodecanol, diisostearyl malate, polyglycerol-2 monoisostearate, polydihydrostearic acid, esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid, in particular esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid and C 8 -C 20 fatty acid and esters of 12-hydroxystearic acid and polyols, quaternary ammonium derivatives of fatty acids polycondensates, mixtures of oxyethylenated / oxypropylene polydimethylsiloxane and mixtures thereof. 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the dispersing agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 40%, in particular from 0.5 to 30%, and more particularly from 0, 5 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase is selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, volatile or non-volatile, and mixtures thereof. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the liquid fatty phase is present in a content ranging from 10% to 95%, in particular from 20% to 90% and more particularly from 30% to 85%. by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the liquid fatty phase is structured by an effective amount of at least one lipophilic structuring agent chosen from waxes, pasty compounds, and mixtures thereof. 9. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the wax is chosen from a jojoba wax, a microcrystalline wax, polyethylene wax, and mixtures thereof. The composition of claim 7 or 8, wherein the pasty compound is selected from bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate, hydrogenated coco-glycerides, hydrogenated lecithin, and mixtures thereof. 11. Composition according to one of claims 8 to 10, wherein the lipophilic structuring agent is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 60%, in particular from 1 to 50%, and more particularly from 5 to 45% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 12. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the hydrophilic active agent is a C-glycoside derivative. 13. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the C-glycoside derivative is hydroxypropyl tetrahydropyrantriol. 25 14. The composition of claim 12 or 13, wherein the C-glycoside derivative is present in a proportion of about 0.0001% to about 20% by weight of active ingredient relative to the total weight of the composition, and in particular from about 0.001% to about 10% by weight based on the weight of the composition. 15. The composition of any one of claims 1 to 11 wherein the hydrophilic active agent is a salicylic acid derivative. 16. Composition according to the preceding claim, wherein the salicylic acid derivative is n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid. 17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, further comprising at least one dyestuff. 18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, said composition being a lipstick. 19. Use of at least one dispersing agent in an effective amount in the preparation of an anhydrous dispersion of particles of a hydrophilic active agent in a fatty phase to impart improved stability to said dispersion. 20. A method of making up and / or care of the lips comprising applying to said lips at least one layer of a composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 18.