FR2973238A1 - Treating perspiration and body odors related to human perspiration including axillary odors, comprises applying hydrophilic film-forming polymer and non-pressure sensitive adhesive hydrophobic film-forming polymer - Google Patents

Abstract

Treating perspiration and optionally body odors related to human perspiration including axillary odors, comprises applying to the skin surface, preferably at axillary, at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one non-pressure sensitive adhesive hydrophobic film-forming polymer, which are present in the same composition (A) or in two separate compositions (A1) and (A2). Independent claims are included for: (1) the composition comprising the hydrophilic film-forming polymer, hydrophobic film-forming polymer and at least one additional antiperspirant and/or an additional deodorant, in a medium; (2) an antiperspirant separately packaged to two components comprising a first component consisting of composition (A1) comprising hydrophobic film-forming polymer in a medium, and a second component consisting of a composition (A2) comprising the hydrophilic film-forming polymer in a medium, where the composition (A1) and composition (A2) contain the antiperspirant and the deodorant; and (3) a packaging assembly comprising (a) the hydrophobic film-forming polymer and (b) the hydrophilic film-forming polymer, where the packaging assembly is in the form of a single compartment comprising the compounds (a) and (b), or in the form of a kit consisting of at least two separate containers, where the compounds (a) and (b) are not simultaneously present in the same container.

Description

A METHOD FOR TREATING HUMAN TRANSPIRATION USING A HYDROPHOBIC FILMOGENIC POLYMER AND A HYDROPHILIC FILMOGENIC POLYMER; Compositions

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating transpiration and possibly body odors related to human perspiration, especially axillary odors, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one hydrophobic non-adhesive pressure-sensitive film-forming polymer; said hydrophilic film-forming polymer and said hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in the same composition A or present in two separate compositions AI and A2 applied simultaneously or sequentially.

The invention relates to a composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one non-adhesive pressure-sensitive hydrophobic film-forming polymer and at least one additional antiperspirant agent and / or an additional deodorant agent.

The invention also relates to a two-component antiperspirant agent packaged separately, characterized in that it comprises: a) a first component consisting of a composition AI comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one non-hydrophobic film-forming polymer pressure sensitive adhesive and b) a second component consisting of a composition A2 comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer.

In the cosmetic field, it is well known to use topically, as antiperspirants, astringent salts such as aluminum salts and / or zirconium which have the effect of limiting or even suppressing the flow of sweat. These products are generally available in the form of roll-on, sticks, aerosol or spray.

Some people find that the application of products containing these metal salts causes skin irritation. On the other hand, aluminum salts block part of the perspiration by forming a partial plug in the sweat duct and giving the consumer the impression of a non-natural sweat control. In addition, they also tend to leave traces, especially white, on clothing. There is therefore the need to search for new antiperspirant active agents that do not have all these disadvantages. which can replace aluminum salts and aluminum / zirconium salts, which are effective in terms of antiperspirant performance, easily formulated, and well tolerated by users. For this purpose, it has already been proposed in the application WO93 / 24105 to use as antiperspirant active polymers forming an occlusive film on the skin. However, the occlusive nature of the polymers promotes bacterial proliferation which can lead to a release of bad odor. In the application WO95 / 27473 it has already been proposed to use, as antiperspirant active agents, cationic insoluble polymers whose main chain is hydrocarbon and comprising pendant hydrophobic quaternary ammonium groups. Application WO01 / 54658 describes anhydrous compositions containing a sweat-reactive cyanoacrylate monomer to form a film in situ by polymerization on the skin which closes the sweat ducts.

These polymers have the drawbacks of reacting directly on the skin in the presence of water, which causes an increase in the undesired temperature in an axillary zone.

US6387356 B1 (Colgate) discloses alcoholic compositions comprising a cellulose acetate butyrate ester film (CAB 553-0.4, CAB 504-0.2) capable of forming a thin film on the skin characterized by a certain hardness and properties. water transport reducing or eliminating the sensation of moisture associated with perspiration.

DE2947060 discloses antiperspirant compositions containing an aqueous dispersion of acrylic resin without plasticizer.

These polymeric antiperspirant systems are not yet sufficiently effective in terms of efficiency vis-à-vis human perspiration. Antiperspirant compositions based on pressure-sensitive adhesive compounds (PSA) have already been proposed in combination with polymers which do not have a sticky power at room temperature, such as polymers comprising silicone grafts such as those sold under the name VS80 by the company 3M. These materials as such have the disadvantage of being sticky, which is not cosmetically favorable for underarm application.

There is therefore a need to search for new polymers effective against human perspiration without the aforementioned disadvantages.

The Applicant has surprisingly discovered that the application of at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one hydrophobic, non-adhesive, pressure-sensitive film-forming polymer achieves this objective and can be easily formulated into products. intended to reduce perspiration without the need to use conventional astringent salts. The Applicant has further found that this association led after application to the skin to a film could lead to an antiperspirant efficacy 45 greater than that obtained with each of the film-forming polymers taken separately.

The invention relates to a cosmetic process for treating perspiration and possibly body odors related to human perspiration, particularly axillary odors, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface s of the skin at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer. and at least one hydrophobic non-adhesive pressure-sensitive film-forming polymer, said hydrophilic polymer and said hydrophobic polymer may be present in the same composition A or present in two separate compositions AI and A2 applied simultaneously or sequentially.

The invention also relates to a composition A comprising in a cosmetically acceptable support comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one non-adhesive pressure-sensitive hydrophobic polymer and at least one additional antiperspirant agent and / or one additional deodorant agent.

The invention also relates to a two-component antiperspirant agent packaged separately, characterized in that it comprises: c) a first component consisting of a composition AI comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one non-hydrophobic film-forming polymer pressure sensitive adhesive and d) a second component consisting of a composition A2 comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer.

The invention also relates to a packaging assembly comprising less: (a) at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer; (B) a hydrophobic non-adhesive pressure-sensitive film-forming polymer; said packaging unit being: - either in the form of a single compartment in which at least the compounds (a) and (b) are simultaneously present; or in the form of a kit consisting of at least two separate containers, in which the compounds (a) and (b) are not simultaneously present in the same container.

DEFINITIONS

By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium compatible with all keratin materials such as skin, scalp, nails, mucous membranes, eyes and hair, or any other skin area of the body. A cosmetically acceptable medium is preferably a medium without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which is perfectly compatible with the route of administration considered.

By "antiperspirant agent" is meant any substance that has the effect of reducing the flow of sweat and / or reducing the sensation of moisture related to human sweat and / or masking human sweat ". For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pressure-sensitive adhesive polymer" means any viscous and elastic polymer which has satisfactory properties of adhesion, cohesion, stretching capacity and elasticity. The performance of a pressure sensitive adhesive polymer (also referred to as "Pressure Sensitive Adhesives" in English or PSA) is generally evaluated through three properties: its immediate tackiness at room temperature (often referred to as "Tack"), its stretching capacity and the adhesion stressed in shear. Properties such as shear stress adhesion or cohesion can be measured from standard tests which are detailed in the scientific literature (Ref: A. Zosel, J. Adhesion, 1994, 44 pp 1-6 ). Pressure-sensitive adhesive polymers usually consist of chemical moieties that are responsible for the elastomeric and tack-tight behavior at room temperature. Thus by controlling the amounts of these fragments, the various desired properties can be obtained.

The pressure sensitive adhesive polymers are preferably defined according to the Dahlquist criterion, that is to say according to their storage modulus G '(as described in the book "Handbook of Pressure Sensitive Adhesive Technology, Second"). Edition, D. Satas, ed., Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, 1989, pages 171-176 "which is incorporated by reference).

For the purposes of the present invention, the conservation module G 'represents the rigidity and elasticity of a material. In other words, this module expresses the capacity of a material to store the mechanical energy, when the latter is subjected to a stress, and its ability to restore this mechanical energy in the form of elastic deformation. This conservation module G 'is preferably measured using a dynamic mechanical analyzer.

Thus, in the context of the Dahlquist criterion, the pressure sensitive adhesives preferentially have a conservation modulus value G 'of less than 3.105 Pascals measured at a rate of 10 radians per second at a temperature of 20 ° C to 22 ° C. ° C.

Pressure-sensitive adhesive polymers are compounds which impart to the coated carrier immediate tack at room temperature, which allows instant adhesion to a substrate under light and brief pressure. Even more particularly, pressure-sensitive adhesives are compounds which exhibit immediate tackiness at room temperature and adhere to a surface simply by unnecessary contact more than the pressure of a finger or a hand. Moreover, given their chemical properties, pressure-sensitive adhesives have particular properties such as low glass transition temperature (Tg), low energy area (a), high flexibility and 40 important link.

Pressure-sensitive adhesive polymers are compounds that include one or more adhesive organic polymers.

45 HYDROPHOBIC FILMOGENIC POLYMERS

The term "hydrophobic film-forming polymer" means any polymer having the following two properties: (1) capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous or discontinuous film adhered to a support, in particular on human keratin materials such as skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, fingernail and (2) whose formed film is capable of absorbing a water content of less than or equal to 30% by weight based on the weight of the dry film of polymer (before immersion in water) when immersed in liquid water.

The water content absorbed by the hydrophobic polymers according to the present invention can be measured under the following conditions: To measure the absorbed water content, also called the water intake, 12 grams of an aqueous solution, a solution of hydroalcoholic or a solution of at least one volatile organic solvent comprising 7% by weight of polymers in an aluminum cup having a diameter of 5.5 centimeters to form a film. The inner surface of the aluminum cup is covered by a Teflon support disc to limit the effects of unwanted edges and facilitate the removal of the film. It is allowed to evaporate 24 hours under ventilation to allow optimal drying. A circular film measuring between 300 and 350 μm in thickness is obtained which is removed from the aluminum cup. The film is then cut into two 1 × 2 cm rectangles.

One of the rectangular films obtained is weighed dry, which corresponds to the mass of the film before immersion in water or mass of the dry film. The same film is then immersed in a 30 ml flask filled with water for a period of 60 minutes.

After each immersion in water, the excess surface water is removed by very slight pressure of the film on cotton paper and the film is weighed which corresponds to the mass of the film after immersion in water. The percentage of water absorbed or the water uptake of the polymer after 60 minutes is calculated according to the following equation: water absorbed = mFilm after immersion - dry mFilm% mFilm dry The operation is repeated three times for each of the polymers tested. The average of the three percentages of absorption is calculated to deduce the percentage of water absorbed by the polymer.

The hydrophobic film-forming polymers are preferably synthetic.

By "synthetic polymer" is meant any polymer obtained chemically or by production in an organism of the elements necessary for this production.

The hydrophobic film-forming polymers used according to the invention may comprise: (i) interpenetrating polymer network polymers; (Ii) grafted silicone polymers; (iii) non-neutralized (meth) acrylic acid and N-tert-butylacrylamide copolymers; (iv) non-neutralized crotonic acid and vinyl acetate copolymers; (v) the tetrapolymers of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylates and C 8 -C 24 alkyl (meth) acrylate (v) mixtures thereof.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "tetrapolymer" means a polymer resulting from the copolymerization of four comonomers.

Interpenetrating polymer network

According to a first variant, the composition according to the present invention comprises at least one synthetic film-forming polymer of interpenetrating polymer network type.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "interpenetrating polymer network" is intended to mean a mixture of two entangled polymers obtained by simultaneous polymerization and / or crosslinking of two types of monomer, the mixture obtained having a single glass transition temperature range. .

A particularly preferred IPN is in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles having a number average size ranging from 50 nm to 100 nm.

IPN preferably has a glass transition temperature range (Tg) ranging from about -50 ° C to + 130 ° C, and preferably from -45 ° C to + 130 ° C.

The Tg is measured in particular by scanning differential scanning calorimetry (DSC) using the device DSC 7 from Perkin Elmer, by preconditioning the polymer sample in a climatic chamber for 48 h at 25 ° C. 50% relative humidity, in an aluminum cup.

The measurement is carried out under nitrogen flushing, with a first heating ranging from -45 ° C. to + 140 ° C. at a rate of 10 ° C./min and a second heating ranging from -45 ° C. to + 230 ° C.

IPNs are described in the publication Solvent-free urethane-acrylic hybrid polymers for coating; E. Galgoci et al, JCT Coatings Tech, 2 (13), 28-36 (February 2005), as well as in US 4644030 and US 5173526.

Advantageously, the interpenetrating network of polyurethane / acrylic polymers 40 may be prepared according to the process described in US Pat. No. 5173526.

This process comprises the following steps:

(a) forming an isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer comprising water-dispersible carboxylic groups; (b) adding to the prepolymer a vinyl monomer mixture containing an ethylenically unsaturated monomer; (c) adding a tertiary amine to the prepolymer / vinyl monomer mixture; (d) dispersing the prepolymer / vinyl monomer mixture in water; (e) adding a free-radical initiator (oil-soluble) and a chain extender to the aqueous dispersion; and (f) polymerizing the vinyl monomers and completing the chain extension of the prepolymer by heating the aqueous dispersion.

The isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer can be obtained by reacting organic monomer containing at least two active hydrogen atoms per molecule, especially a diol and preferably a polyester polyol, with an excess of diisocyanate monomer.

Preferably, the polyurethane prepolymer comprises unreacted carboxylic acid groups which are neutralized as tertiary amine salt after prepolymer formation and addition of the vinyl monomers, but prior to formation of the aqueous dispersion. The polyisocyanates used for the manufacture of the prepolymer may be aliphatic, cycloaliphatic, or aromatic. As examples of polyisocyanates, mention may be made of ethylene diisocyanate, 1,6-hexamethylene diisocyanate, isophorone diisocyanate, cyclohexane-1,4-diisocyanate, 4,4'-dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate and 1,4-phenylene diisocyanate, 2,4-toluene diisocyanate, 2,6-toluene diisocyanate, 4,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 2,4'-diphenylmethane diisocyanate, 1,5-naphthylene diisocyanate, and mixtures thereof.

Polymeric polyols having a molecular weight ranging from 500 to 6000, preferably from 700 to 3000, which may be used for the preparation of the prepolymer, may be chosen from diols and triols or mixtures thereof. The polyols may be chosen especially from polyesters, polyesteramides, polyethers, polythioethers, polycarbonates and polyacetals.

The polyester polyols may be selected from hydroxyl-terminated reaction products of polyhydric alcohols such as ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, neopentyl glycol, 1,4-butanediol, furan dimethanol, cyclohexane dimethanol, glycerol, trimethylolpropane, pentaerythritol, or mixtures thereof, with polycarboxylic acids, in particular dicarboxylic acids or their ester form, such as succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid or their ester methyl, phthalic anhydride or dimethyl terephthalate. Polyesters obtained by polymerization of lactones, such as caprolactone, and polyol can also be used. The polyesteramides can be obtained using amino alcohols such as ethanolamine in the polyesterification mixture.

The polyether polyols which may be used include products obtained by cyclic oxide polymerization, for example ethylene oxide, propylene oxide, tetrahydrofuran, or by addition of these cyclic oxides to polyfunctional initiators such as water, ethylene glycol, propylene glycol, diethylene glycol, cyclohexane dimethanol, glycerol, trimethylol propane, pentaerythritol, bisphenol A. The polyethers may also be chosen from polyoxypropylene diols and triols, diols and the like. and poly (oxyethylene-10-oxypropylene) triols obtained by simultaneous or sequential addition of propylene oxide and ethylene oxide with the appropriate initiators, and polytetramethylene glycol ethers obtained by polymerization of tetrahydrofuran.

The polythioether polyols may be chosen from products obtained by condensation of thiodiglycol, either alone or with other glycols, dicarboxylic acids, formaldehyde, aminoalcohols or amino carboxylic acids.

The polycarbonate polyols may be selected from the reaction products of diols such as 1,3-propanediol, 1,4-butanediol, 1,6-hexanediol, diethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol with diaryl carbonates, such as diphenyl carbonate, or with phosgene.

The polyacetal polyols may be chosen from the reaction products of is glycols such as diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol or hexanediol with formaldehyde.

Acidic group-containing reactive isocyanate compounds which can be used in the preparation of water-dispersible anionic prepolymers include diols and triols containing carboxylic acid groups, for example those of formula (I)

R-C (CH 2 OH) 2 -OOH (I)

Wherein R is hydrogen or C1-C10 alkyl. The carboxylic group diol is preferably 2,2-dimethylolpropionic acid. The carboxylic group diol or triol may be incorporated into a polyester by reaction with a dicarboxylic acid before being introduced into the prepolymer. Acidic compounds are, for example, aminocarboxylic acids, for example lysine, cystine, 3,5-diaminobenzoic acid.

The water-dispersible anionic isocyanate-terminated polyurethane prepolymer can be prepared conventionally by reacting a stoichiometric excess of an organic polyisocyanate with a polymeric polyol and any other necessary isocyanate-reactive compound under anhydrous conditions at a temperature of from about 0.05 to about 0.05. temperature between 30 and 130 ° C until the reaction between the isocyanate groups and the hydroxyl groups is complete. The polyisocyanate and the active hydrogen-containing compounds are advantageously used so that the ratio of the number of isocyanate groups to the number of hydroxyl groups ranges from 1.1 / 1 to 6/1, preferably 1.5 / 1 to 3/1. It is possible to use a well known tin catalyst to assist in the formation of the prepolymer.

A mixture of water dispersible polyurethane prepolymer containing carboxylic groups and the vinyl monomer is obtained by simply adding the vinyl monomer composition to the prepolymer. The vinyl monomer composition must contain at least one ethylenically initiated monomer.

The vinyl monomers which may be added to the prepolymer may be ethylenically unsaturated hydrocarbon monomers, ethylenically unsaturated esters, ethylenically unsaturated ethers, in particular (meth) acrylic acid esters, vinyl alcohol esters, styrene.

It may especially be mentioned butadiene, isoprene, styrene, alkyl (meth) acrylates having a C1-C6 alkyl group, alkyl maleates having a C1-C6 alkyl group, vinyl acetate vinyl butyrate, acrylonitrile, vinyl methyl ether, vinyl propyl ether, vinyl butyl ether, vinyl chloride, vinylidene chloride. The unsaturated polyethylenic monomers may be chosen from butadiene, isoprene, allyl methacrylate, diesters of acrylic acid and of C2-C6 diols, such as butylene diacrylate and hexylene diacrylate, divinyl benzene, divinyl ether, divinyl sulfide, trimethylolpropane triacrylate. Advantageously, the vinyl monomer is methyl methacrylate.

Before dispersing the prepolymer / vinyl monomer mixture in water, a tertiary amine is added to the mixture in an amount sufficient to render the prepolymer dispersible in water, i.e., in an amount sufficient to neutralize the carboxylic groups. For example, the amine can be added in an amount ranging from 65 to 100% amine equivalent per carboxylic equivalent equivalent.

The tertiary amines that can be used are relatively volatile so that they are evaporated from the film after the filming.

There may be mentioned, for example, amines of formula R-N (R 1) (R 2) in which R, R 1 and R 2 independently represent a C 1 -C 4 alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group. For example, triethylamine, dimethylethanolamine, methyldiethanolamine, and methyldiethylamine may be mentioned.

It is important that the tertiary amine be added to the prepolymer / monomer mixture before this mixture is dispersed in water to ensure compatibility of the organic and aqueous phases in the resulting dispersion.

The prepolymer / vinyl monomer mixture can be dispersed in water using known technologies. Preferably, the mixture is added to the water with stirring, or the water can be poured into the mixture.

The chain extender containing the active hydrogen which reacts with the prepolymer may be a polyol, an amino alcohol, ammonia, a primary or secondary amine, and more particularly a diamine. Mention may be made, for example, of ethylenediamine, diethylene triamine, triethylene tetramine, propylene diamine, butylene diamine, hexamethylenediamine, cyclohexylenediamine, piperazine, 2-methylpiperazine, phenylenediamine and toluene diamine. tris (2-aminoethyl) amine, 4,4'-methylenebis (2-chloraniline), 3,3'-dichloro-4,4'-diphenyl diamine, 2,6-diaminopyridine, 4, 4'-diaminodiphenyl methane, isophorone diamine.

The free radical initiator may be an azo initiator such as 2,2'-azobis (2,4-dimethylpentanenitrile) and 2,2'-azobis (2-methylpropanenitrile) [or AIBN].

The radical polymerization of the vinyl monomer mixture and the prepolymer chain extender is advantageously carried out at elevated temperature, for example between 50 ° C and 90 ° C, and preferably between 60 ° C and 80 ° C.

The amount of chain extender used is advantageously equivalent to the free isocyanate groups in the prepolymer, the ratio of the number of active hydrogens in the chain extender to the number of isocyanate groups in the prepolymer preferably ranging from 0.7 to 1.3.

The polymerization of the vinyl monomers can be carried out according to two methods. According to a first method, the monomers are added and can swell the polyurethane prepolymer before the addition of the tertiary amine. The monomers are then polymerized using the free radical initiator. The proportion of the vinyl monomers can range from 25 to 75%, preferably from 40% to 60%, by weight of the total weight of solids of the aqueous dispersion.

According to a second method of polymerization, some of the vinyl monomers are added to the prepolymer, then neutralized with the tertiary amine and the prepolymer / vinyl monomer mixture is dispersed in water, followed by the polymerization during which the remainder is added. of monomers. Alternatively, the second monomer portion may be added to the vinyl prepolymer / monomer dispersion after addition of the amine and stir the mixture before the start of the polymerization.

The polymer dispersion can contain from 20 to 60% by weight of solids. According to one preferred embodiment of the invention, the polyurethane present in the IPN is a polyester polyol / diol copolymer containing a carboxylic acid / diisocyanate / diamine group, as those described for example previously; the acrylic polymer present in the IPN is a polymethyl methacrylate.

The polyurethane / acrylic polymer IPN sold by the company AIR PRODUCTS under the trademark "Hybridur® 875 polymer dispersion" (INCI name: POLYURETHANE-2 (and) POLYMETHYL 45 METHACRYLATE) is preferably used, or else under the denominations "Hybridur® 870", "Hybridur® 880". 50 grafted silicone polymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "grafted silicone polymer" is intended to mean a polymer comprising a silicone or polysiloxane main chain (Si-O- polymer) on which is grafted, within said chain, as well as optionally at least one of its ends, one or more organic groups not containing silicone.

Examples of polymers having a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers which are suitable for implementing the present invention, as well as their particular method of preparation, are described in particular in patent applications EP-A-0582152, WO 93/23009 and WO 95/03776 whose teachings are fully included in the present description by way of non-limiting references. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the present invention, the silicone polymer, with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers, used comprises the result of the radical copolymerization between on the one hand one or more anionic organic monomers. non-silicone having ethylenic unsaturation and / or one or more non-silicone hydrophobic organic monomers having ethylenic unsaturation and, secondly, a silicone having in its chain one or more functional groups capable of reacting on said ethylenic unsaturations of said non-silicone monomers. -silicone forming a covalent bond, especially thio-functional groups.

According to the present invention, said ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomers are preferably chosen, alone or as mixtures, from unsaturated, linear or branched, neutralized carboxylic acids, this or these unsaturated carboxylic acids being more particularly acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, maleic anhydride, itaconic acid, fumaric acid and crotonic acid. It will be noted that, likewise, in the final grafted silicone polymer, the organic group of anionic nature which comprises the result of the radical (homo) polymerization of one or more unsaturated carboxylic acid type anionic monomers.

According to the present invention, the hydrophobic monomers with ethylenic unsaturation are preferably chosen, alone or in mixtures, from the acrylic acid esters of alkanols and / or the methacrylic acid esters of alkanols. The alkanols are preferably C 1 -C 18 and more particularly C 1 -C 12. The preferred monomers are selected from the group consisting of isooctyl (meth) acrylate, isononyl (meth) acrylate, 2-ethylhexyl (meth) acrylate, lauryl (meth) acrylate, (meth) acrylate isopentyl, n-butyl (meth) acrylate, isobutyl (meth) acrylate, methyl (meth) acrylate, t-butyl (meth) acrylate, tridecyl (meth) acrylate, stearyl (meth) acrylate or mixtures thereof.

A family of silicone polymers with a polysiloxane backbone grafted with non-silicone organic monomers particularly suitable for the implementation of the present invention consists of silicone polymers comprising in their structure the unit of formula (II) below: G1 (II) in which the radicals G, identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one hydrophobic ethylenically unsaturated monomer; m and n are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350, c is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from O.

Preferably, the unit of formula (II) above has at least one, and even more preferably all, of the following characteristics: the radicals G1, denote a C1-C10 alkyl radical, n is non-zero and the radicals G2 represent a divalent radical C1-C3; G3 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid monomer, preferably acrylic acid and / or methacrylic acid; G4 represents a polymeric radical resulting from the (homo) polymerization of one or more monomers of the C1-C10 alkyl (meth) acrylate type.

Examples of grafted silicone polymers corresponding to formula (II) are, in particular, polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) on which are grafted, by means of a thiopropylene-type connecting link, mixed polymeric units of the poly ( meth) acrylic and / or of the poly (meth) acrylate type, especially of C1-C3 alkyl, or even C1. These polymers are referred to under the INCI name "Polysilicone-8".

It can thus be a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid) or a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate), propylthio (polymethylmethacrylate) and propylthio ( methacrylic acid). Alternatively, it may be a grafted polydimethyl siloxane propylthio (isobutyl polymethacrylate) and propylthio (methacrylic polyacid).

Such grafted silicone polymers are especially sold by the company 3M 40 under the trade names VS 80, VS 70 or

It is preferable to use a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid) sold under the name VS80 by the company 3M. - (- SI-O-) a (-Si-O-) b (-Si-O-) (G2), S-G3 G1 (G2) mS-G4 45 Among the copolymers of acrylic acid and N -tertiobutylacrylamide, it is preferable to use non-neutralized acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide copolymers (in which the acrylic acid is in free form), such as ULTRAHOLD STRONG and ULTRAHOLD 8 products (INCI name: s Acrylates t-Butylacrylamide Copolymer) in unneutralized form from BASF;

Among the non-neutralized vinyl acetate and crotonic acid copolymers, use will preferably be made of those described in FR 2,439,798 and in particular the vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / tert-butyl-4- copolymer. vinyl benzoate (65/10/25) (INCI name: Vinyl Acetate Ninyl Butyl Benzoate / Crotonates Copolymer) in unneutralized form such as the commercial product MEXOMERE PW manufactured by CHIMEX.

Among the tetrapolymers of (meth) acrylic acid, of (meth) acrylates and of C 8 -C 24 alkyl (meth) acrylate, mention may be made of those described in Application US2003021847, such as the copolymer sold under the name Soltex OPTPG by the Rhom & Haas company having as non INCI: Acrylates / C12-C22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer Preferably, the hydrophobic polymer (s) are (are) chosen from copolymers of C12-C22 alkyl acrylate and methacrylate sold under the name SOLTEX OPT-PG by Rhom & Haas.

The film-forming hydrophobic polymers according to the invention are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight and from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

HYDROPHILIC FILMOGENIC POLYMERS "Hydrophobic film-forming polymer" means any polymer having both of the following properties: (1) capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous or discontinuous film adhered to a support, especially on human keratin materials such as skin, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, fingernail and (2) whose formed film is capable of absorbing a water content greater than or equal to 35%, preferably greater than or equal to equal to 40% and more particularly greater than or equal to 60% relative to the weight of the film 40 sec of polymer (before immersion in water) when it is immersed in liquid water.

The water content absorbed by the hydrophilic polymers according to the present invention can be measured under the same conditions as those described for the hydrophobic polymers.

The hydrophilic film-forming polymer or polymers are preferably chosen from polyurethanes, vinyl polymers and natural polymers, and mixtures thereof. Hydrophilic polyurethane film-forming polyurethanes The polyurethanes may be polyurethane copolymers, or polyurea butethane or polyurea, aliphatic, cycloaliphatic or aromatic, comprising alone or in mixture: at least one aliphatic and / or cycloaliphatic and / or aromatic polyester origin sequence, and or at least one silicone sequence, branched or unbranched, for example polydimethylsiloxane or polymethylphenylsiloxane, and / or at least one sequence comprising fluorinated groups.

The hydrophilic film-forming polyurethanes which can be used in the invention can also be obtained from branched or unbranched polyesters or from alkyls containing mobile hydrogens which are modified by reaction with a diisocyanate and a bifunctional organic compound (for example dihydro). , diamino or hydroxyamino), further comprising either a carboxylic acid or carboxylate group, or a sulfonic acid or sulfonate group, or a tertiary amine neutralizable group or a quaternary ammonium group.

In order to form the hydrophilic polyurethane, there may be mentioned as monomer carrying an anionic group which may be used during the polycondensation, dimethylolpropionic acid, trimellitic acid or a derivative such as trimellitic anhydride, sodium salt of 3-sulfopentadiol acid, sodium salt of 5-sulfo-1,3-benzenedicarboxylic acid.

Preferably, the anionic group-bearing monomer is dimethylolpropionic acid.

As hydrophilic film-forming polyurethane used according to the invention, mention may be made of the aqueous polyurethane dispersions sold under the names Avalure UR-405®, Avalure UR-410®, Avalure UR-425®, Avalure UR-450® by the company GOODRICH.

The hydrophilic film-forming polyurethanes may also be chosen from film-forming elastomeric polyurethanes, capable of driving, by drying said one or more of said polyurethanes, at room temperature and at a relative humidity of 55%, with a material having a mechanical profile defined by at least: - an elongation at break (E) ratio greater than or equal to 150%, - an instantaneous recovery (Ri) greater than or equal to 75% after an elongation of 150%, 45 - a recovery at 300 seconds ( R300s) greater than 80%, after an elongation of 150%.

The material obtained by drying said one or more film-forming polyurethanes is therefore extensible enough not to break due to the deformations caused by the movements of the skin and to return to a shape substantially identical to its initial shape.

For the purpose of the present invention, the instantaneous recovery (Ri) of a material s defines the capacity of the latter to recover its initial shape or a shape substantially identical to its initial shape after having been deformed following elongation during the course of the invention. a pulling stress. The recovery of the material is also measured in percentage.

Within the meaning of the present invention, the rate of elongation at break and the recovery are evaluated by means of the tensile tests described hereinafter.

To carry out the tensile tests, a film is produced for producing test pieces by applying to a teflon matrix the sufficient quantity of mixture comprising the film-forming elastomeric polymer (s) to obtain a film with a thickness of 500 μm ± 50 μm. .mu.m. Drying is continued until the weight of the film no longer changes, which can typically be 12 days.

In particular, within the meaning of the present invention, the term "film intended for the production or manufacture of test pieces" means a film obtained by drying said one or more film-forming elastomeric polyurethanes at room temperature (22 ° C. ± 2 ° C. ) and at a relative humidity of 55% ± 5%, from a mixture containing at least 3% of active ingredients, that is to say 3% by weight of polyurethanes relative to the total weight of the mixed. In the case where the mixture used to produce the film for the manufacture of test pieces contains less than 3% by weight of active substances, a preliminary concentration operation is carried out, for example by evaporating a part of the solvent so that the mixture contains at least 3% elastomeric polymers. This operation avoids drying too long.

The film obtained is then cut into test pieces of rectangular shape, with a length of 80 mm and a width of 15 mm.

The tests are carried out on an apparatus sold under the name Lloyd or sold under the name Zwick under the same conditions of temperature and humidity as for drying, that is to say an ambient temperature (22 ° C. ± 2 ° C) and at a relative humidity of 55% ± 5%.

The specimens are stretched at a speed of 20 mm / min and the distance between the jaws is 50 ± 1 mm.

To determine the instantaneous recovery (R 1), proceed as follows: - the test piece is stretched by 150% (cmax), that is to say 1.5 times its initial length (Io), 45 - release the constraint by imposing a return speed equal to the tensile speed, ie 20 mm / min, and measuring the elongation of the specimen in percentage, after return to zero load (c;).

The instantaneous recovery in% (Ri) is given by the formula below: 50 Ri = ((Emax-Ei) / cmax) xl00

In order to determine the recovery at 300 seconds, the test piece was held at zero stress for an additional 300 seconds, and the test specimen was subjected to the above operations, and its percentage elongation ratio (E300s) was measured. In other words, recovery at 300 seconds corresponds to the residual elongation rate of the specimen 300 seconds after the return to zero load (ci).

Thus, the recovery at 300 seconds (R300s) of a material defines the capacity of this material to recover its shape or a shape substantially identical to its initial shape after another 300 seconds after the return to zero load (ci) and after having been deformed following elongation during a tensile stress. The recovery at 300 seconds in percentage (R300s) is therefore given by the following formula: R300s = ((Emax-Ei) / E300s) X1 00 Advantageously, the film-forming elastomeric polyurethane (s) according to the invention are as they form, under the conditions of the tests described above, a material having a degree of elongation at break (E) of greater than 150%, preferably at least greater than 250%, and even more preferably of 250% to 1000%, instantaneous recovery (R 1) ranging from 75% to 100% and recovery at 300 seconds (R300s) ranging from 80 to 100%, preferably from 90% to 100%.

Preferably, the film-forming elastomeric polyurethanes are chosen from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of hexanediol, neopentyl glycol, adipic acid, hexamethylene diisocyanate and N- (2-aminoethyl) sulfonic acid. 3-aminoethane and ethylenediamine.

Preferably, the polyurethanes may also be chosen from copolymers obtained by copolymerization of adipic acid, dicyclohexylmethane diisocyanate, ethylenediamine, hexanediol, neopentyl glycol and sodium N- (2-aminoethyl) -3 -aminoethane sufonate.

In particular, the polyurethanes are chosen from those sold under the name Baycusan C1001 or C1004, and more particularly that sold under the name Baycusan C1001.

VINYL POLYMERS

Preferably, the vinyl polymer (s) are chosen from polyvinyl alcohols, copolymers derived from C 4 -C 8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides and methyl vinyl ether / butyl monomaleate copolymers.

For the purposes of the present invention, polyvinyl alcohol is understood to mean a polymer comprising -CH 2 CH (OH) -.

Polyvinyl alcohols are generally produced by hydrolysis of polyvinyl acetate. Most often the reaction occurs in the presence of methanol (alcoholysis). The reaction is usually catalyzed by the acidic or basic route. The hydrolysis rate of commercial products is variable, often around 87% but there are also products with 100% hydrolysis rate. There are also copolymers with other monomers than vinyl acetate such as ethylene / vinyl alcohol copolymers.

The polyvinyl alcohol polymers are preferably chosen from homopolymers or copolymers with vinyl acetate, the latter corresponding in particular to partial hydrolysis of the polyvinyl acetate. For example, it is possible to use the products of the Celvol range proposed by CELANESE under the names Celvol 540, Celvol 350, Celvol 325, Celvol 165, Celvol 125 Celvol 540 S, Celvol 840, Celvol 443.

Preferably, the polyvinyl alcohols are chosen from the products sold under the name Celvol 540 by the company CELANESE.

The copolymer or copolymers derived from monounsaturated C4-C8 carboxylic acids or anhydrides may be chosen from copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB 839,805, and especially those sold under the names GANTREZ AN or ES, AVANTAGE CP by the company ISP.

Preferably, the copolymer or copolymers derived from C 4 -C 8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides are chosen from monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / monoester maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name Gantrez ES 225 by the company ISP having the INCI name. : Butyl Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer 40 NATURAL HYDROPHILIC FILMOGENIC POLYMERS

The natural hydrophilic polymer (s) may be chosen from polysaccharides which have monosaccharides or disaccharides as base units.

The natural polymers are preferably chosen from guar gums and modified guar gums, celluloses, gellan gum and its derivatives. Guar gums are galactomannans consisting of mannose and galactose.

For the purposes of the present application, the term "modified guar gum" means guar gums alkylated with at least one C 1 -C 8 alkyl group, guar gums hydroxyalkylated by at least one C 1 -C 8 hydroxyalkyl group, and guar gums acylated by at least one C 1 -C 8 acyl group.

Preferably, it is hydroxypropylated guar gums such as that sold under the name Jaguar HP 105 by Rhodia.

Cellulose is an R1-4 polyacetal of cellobiose, cellobiose being a disaccharide consisting of two glucose molecules.

The cellulose derivatives may be anionic, cationic, amphoteric or nonionic. Among these derivatives, there are cellulose ethers, cellulose esters and cellulose ether esters.

Among the nonionic cellulose ethers, there may be mentioned alkylcelluloses such as methylcelluloses and ethylcelluloses; hydroxyalkylcelluloses such as hydroxymethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylcelluloses and hydroxypropylcelluloses; mixed hydroxyalkyl-alkylcellulose celluloses such as hydroxypropylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylmethylcelluloses, hydroxyethylethylcelluloses and hydroxybutylmethylcelluloses. Among the anionic cellulose ethers, there may be mentioned carboxyalkylcelluloses and their salts. By way of example, mention may be made of carboxymethylcelluloses, carboxymethylmethylcelluloses and carboxymethylhydroxyethylcelluloses and their sodium salts. Among the cationic cellulose ethers, mention may be made of quaternized and non-crosslinked hydroxyethylcelluloses. The quaternizer may especially be glycidyltrimethylammonium chloride or a fatty amine such as laurylamine or stearylamine. Another cationic cellulose ether is hydroxyethylcellulosehydroxypropyltrimethylammonium. Among the cellulose esters, there are the inorganic esters of cellulose (cellulose nitrates, sulphates or phosphates, etc.), the cellulose organic esters (cellulose monoacetates, triacetates, aminopropionates, acetate butyrates, acetate propionates or acetatetrimellitates). .) and organic / inorganic cellulose mixed esters such as cellulose acetate-butyrate sulphates and cellulose acetate propionates.

Among the cellulose ether esters, mention may be made of hydroxypropyl methylcellulose phthalates and ethylcellulose sulphates. The cellulosic compounds of the invention may be selected from unsubstituted celluloses and substituted celluloses.

The celluloses and derivatives are represented for example by the products sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company 50 FMC Biopolymers, under the name Cekol (carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Noviant (CP-Kelco), under the name Akucell AF (sodium carboxymethylcellulose) by the company Akzo Nobel, under the name MethocelTM (cellulose ethers) and EthocelTM (ethylcellulose) by the company DOW, under the trade names Aqualon® (carboxymethylcellulose and sodium carboxymethylcellulose), Benecel® (methylcellulose), Blanose (TM) (carboxymethylcellulose), Culminai® (methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose), Klucel® (hydroxypropylcellulose), Polysurf® (cetyl hydroxyethylcellulose) and Natrosol® CS (hydroxyethylcellulose) by Hercules Aqualon. Gellan gum is a polysaccharide produced by aerobic fermentation of Sphingomonas elodea more commonly known as Psedomonas elodea. This linear polysaccharide consists of the sequence of the following monosaccharides D-Glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-Rhamnose. In the native state the gellan gum is highly acylated.

The gellan gum preferably used in the film according to the present invention is at least partially deacylated gellan gum. This at least partially deacylated gellan gum is obtained by a high temperature alkaline treatment. For example, a solution of KOH or NaOH will be used.

The purified gellan gum sold under the trade name "KELCOGEL®" by KELCO is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention.

The derivatives of gellan gum are all the products obtained by carrying out conventional chemical reactions, such as in particular esterifications, addition of a salt of an organic or inorganic acid. As a derivative of the gellan gum, for example, the welan gum is used. Welan gum is a gellan gum modified by fermentation with Alcaligenes strain ATCC 31,555. The welan gum has a repeating pentasaccharide structure consisting of a main chain consisting of D-Glucose, D-glucuronic acid and L-Rhamnose on which a pendant motif of L-Rhamnose or L-Mannose is grafted.

The welan gum sold under the trade name KELCO CRETE® by KELCO is suitable for preparing the compositions according to the invention.

Other saccharide polymers which can be used according to the invention include starches and their derivatives.

Preferably, the natural polymer or polymers are chosen from celluloses and their derivatives, in particular those sold under the names Avicel® (microcrystalline cellulose, MCC) by the company FMC Biopolymers.

More particularly, copolymers derived from C 4 -C 8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides, in particular monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold, for example, under the name GANTREZ ES 225 by the company ISP having the INCI name: Butyl, will be used more particularly. Ester of PVM / MA Copolymer

The film-forming hydrophobic polymers according to the invention are preferably present at concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight and from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition.

Preferably, the hydrophilic film-forming polymer and the hydrophilic film-forming polymer according to the invention are used in a hydrophobic polymer / hydrophilic polymer weight ratio ranging from 25/75 to 50/50.

IMPLEMENTATION OF THE PROCESS According to a particular form of the invention, a composition A comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer and at least one substance, will be applied to the skin and more particularly to the axillaries in a single step. hydrophilic film-forming polymer such as those previously described.

According to another particular form of the invention, an AI composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer such as those described above, will be applied to the skin and more particularly to the axillaries simultaneously or sequentially. and a composition A2 in a cosmetically acceptable medium comprising at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer such as those described above, the order of application may be indifferent.

When the application of compositions AI and A2 is sequential, the time interval between each application will preferably vary from 5 to 15 minutes.

When the application of the compositions AI and A2 is sequential, the composition AI comprising the hydrophobic film-forming polymer or polymers will be applied more preferably initially.

GALENIC FORMS

The compositions A, AI and A2 according to the invention as defined above can be preferably in the form of an aqueous gel, hydroalcoholic or alcoholic, aqueous, hydroalcoholic or alcoholic solutions.

The invention also relates to compositions packaged in pressurized form in an aerosol device or in a pump bottle; packaged 45 in a device provided with a perforated wall including a grid; packaged in a device equipped with a ball-on applicator.They contain in this respect the ingredients generally used in this type of products and well known to those skilled in the art.

According to another particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention can be anhydrous.

By anhydrous composition is meant a composition containing less than 2% by weight of water, or even less than 0.5% of water, and especially free of water, the water not being added during the preparation of the composition but corresponding to the residual water provided by the mixed ingredients.

AQUEOUS PHASE The aqueous phase of the aqueous compositions contains water and in general other solvents which are soluble or miscible with water. Solvents that are soluble or miscible in water include short-chain monohydric alcohols, for example C1-C4, such as ethanol or isopropanol; diols or polyols such as ethylene glycol, 1,2-propylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, hexylene glycol, diethylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, 2-ethoxyethanol, diethylene glycol monomethyl ether, triethylene glycol monomethyl ether and sorbitol. Propylene glycol and glycerol, propane 1,3 diol will be used more particularly.

20 ADDITIONAL ANTI-TRANSPIRING AGENTS

The composition A or the composition AI and / or the composition A2 according to the invention as defined above may additionally contain one or more additional antiperspirant agents, in particular salts or complexes of aluminum and / or zirconium.

The antiperspirant salts or complexes in accordance with the invention are generally chosen from aluminum or zirconium salts or complexes. They are preferably chosen from aluminum halohydrates; aluminum and zirconium halohydrates, complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with or without an amino acid such as those described in US-3792068.

Among the aluminum salts, mention may in particular be made of aluminum chlorohydrate in activated or non-activated form, aluminum chlorohydrex, chlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum chlorohydrexpropyleneglycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrate, aluminum complex dichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol complex, aluminum dichlorohydrex propylene glycol complex, sesquichlorohydrate aluminum, sesquichlorohydrex polyethylene glycol aluminum complex, sesquichlorohydrex propylene glycol aluminum complex, aluminum sulphate buffered with sodium aluminum lactate.

Among the aluminum and zirconium salts, there may be mentioned in particular aluminum zirconium octachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrate, aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrate.

Complexes of zirconium hydroxychloride and aluminum hydroxychloride with an amino acid are generally known as ZAG (when the amino acid is glycine). Among these products, mention may be made of aluminum complexes of zirconium octachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium pentachlorohydrex glycine, aluminum zirconium tetrachlorohydrex glycine and aluminum zirconium trichlorohydrex glycine.

The antiperspirant salts or complexes may be present in the composition according to the invention in a proportion of approximately 0.5 to 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

It is also possible to add moisture absorbers such as perlites and preferably expanded perlites.

The perlites which can be used according to the invention are generally aluminosilicates of volcanic origin and have as their composition 70.0-75.0% by weight of silica SiO 2 12.0-15.0% by weight of oxide of aluminum oxide Al2O3 3.0-5.0% sodium oxide Na2O 3.0-5.0% potassium oxide K2O 0.5-2% iron oxide Fe2O3 - 0.2-0.7% MgO magnesium oxide 0.5-1.5% calcium oxide CaO 0.05 - 0.15% titanium oxide TiO 2

Perlite is milled, dried and then calibrated in a first step. The product obtained called Perlite Ore is gray in color and of the order of 100 μm. Perlite Ore is then foamed (1000 ° C / 2 seconds) to give more or less white particles. When the temperature reaches 850-900 ° C, the water trapped in the structure of the material vaporizes and causes the expansion of the material relative to its original volume. The expanded perlite particles according to the invention can be obtained by the expansion method described in US Pat. No. 5,002,698.

Preferably, the perlite particles used will be crushed; in this case they are called Expanded Milled Perlite (EMP). They preferably have a particle size defined by a median diameter D 50 ranging from 0.5 to 50 μm and preferably from 0.5 to 40 μm.

Preferably, the perlite particles used have a loose bulk density at 25 ° C ranging from 10 to 400 kg / m 3 (DIN 53468 standard) and preferably 40 to 10 and 300 kg / m 3.

Preferably, the expanded perlite particles according to the invention have a WET POINT water absorption capacity ranging from 200 to 1500% and preferably from 250 to 800%. 45 The Wet Point is the amount of water that must be added to 1 g of particle to obtain a homogeneous paste. This method derives directly from that of oil application applied to solvents. The measurements are made in the same way via the Wet Point and the Flow Point having the following definitions, respectively: WET POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product corresponding to obtaining a homogeneous paste during the treatment. addition of a solvent to a powder.

s FLOW POINT: mass expressed in grams per 100g of product from which the quantity of solvent is greater than the capacity of the powder to retain it. This results in obtaining a more or less homogeneous mixture flowing on the glass plate.

The Wet Point and Flow Point are measured according to the following protocol: Protocol for Measuring Water Absorption.

1) Material used 15 Glass plate (25 x 25 mm) Spatula (wooden handle and metal part (15 x 2,7mm) Silk bristle brush Balance

20 2) Operating Mode

The glass plate is deposited on the balance and 1 g of pearlite particles is weighed. The beaker containing the solvent and the sampling device are deposited on the scale. The solvent is gradually added to the powder by regularly kneading the assembly (every 3 to 4 drops) using the spatula. The mass of solvent required to obtain the Wet Point is noted. The solvent is added again and the mass is recorded allowing the flow point to be reached. We will perform the average over 3 trials.

In particular, the expanded perlite particles sold under the trade names OPTIMAT 1430 OR OPTIMAT 2550 by the company WORLD MINERALS will be used.

DEODORANT AGENTS The composition A or the composition AI and / or the composition A2 according to the invention as defined above may additionally contain one or more additional deodorant agents.

The deodorant agents may be bacteriostatic agents or bactericidal agents acting on the germs of axillary odors, such as 2,4,4'-trichloro-2'-hydroxydiphenyl ether (®Triclosan), 2,4-dichloro-2 ' 3-hydroxydiphenyl ether, 3 ', 4', 5'-trichlorosalicylanilide, 1- (3 ', 4'-dichlorophenyl) -3- (4'-chlorophenyl) urea (®Triclocarban) or 3,7,11-trimethyldodeca -2,5,10-trienol 45 (®Farnesol); quaternary ammonium salts such as cetyltrimethylammonium salts, cetylpyridinium salts, DPTA (1,3-diaminopropanetetraacetic acid), 1,2 decanediol (SYMCLARIOL from Symrise), glycerine derivatives such as, for example, Caprylic / Capric Glycerides (CAPMUL MCM from Abitec), Caprylate or Glycerol 50 caprate (DERMOSOFT GMCY and DERMOSOFT GMC respectively from STRAETMANS), Polyglyceryl-2 Caprate (DERMOSOFT DG ™ from STRAETMANS), biguanide derivatives such as polyhexamethylene biguanide. - chlorhexidine and its salts; 4-Phenyl-4,4-dimethyl-2-butanol (SYMDEO MPP from Symrise). Among the deodorant active agents according to the invention, mention may also be made of: zinc salts, such as zinc salicylate, zinc gluconate and zinc pidolate; zinc sulphate, zinc chloride, zinc lactate, zinc phenolsulfonate; salicylic acid and its derivatives such as n-octanoyl-5-salicylic acid.

Deodorant actives may be odor absorbers such as zinc ricinoleate, sodium bicarbonate; metallic or non-metallic zeolites, cyclodextrins, alum.

It may also be a chelating agent such as Akzo Nobel DISSOLVINE GL-47-S, EDTA; DTPA.

It may also be polyol of glycerin type, propane 1,3 propane diol (ZEMEA PROPANEDIOL marketed by Dupont tate and lyle bio products).

Or enzymatic inhibitor such as triethyl citrate.

In case of incompatibility or to stabilize them, some of the agents mentioned above may be incorporated in spherules, especially ionic or nonionic vesicles and / or particles (capsules and / or spheres).

The deodorant agents may preferably be present in the compositions according to the invention in weight concentrations ranging from 0.01 to 15% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

ORGANIC POWDER According to one particular form of the invention, the compositions according to the invention will also contain an organic powder.

As used herein, the term "organic powder" means any insoluble solid in the medium at room temperature (25 ° C.).

Organic powders that may be used in the composition of the invention include, for example, polyamide particles and especially those sold under the names ORGASOL by Atochem; the nylon 6,6 fibers, in particular the polyamide fibers marketed by the establishments P Bonte under the name Polyamide 0.9 Dtex 0.3 mm (non INCI: Nylon 6,6 or Polyamide-6,6) having a mean diameter of 6 μm, a weight of about 0.9 dtex and a length of 0.3 mm to 1.5 mm; polyethylene powders; microspheres based on acrylic copolymers, such as those made of ethylene glycol dimethacrylate / lauryl methacrylate copolymer sold by Dow Corning under the name Polytrap; polymethyl methacrylate microspheres, sold under the name MICROSPHERE M-100 by the company Matsumoto or under the name COVABEAD LH85 by the company Wackherr; hollow methyl methacrylate microspheres (particle size: 6.5-10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0800 by Ganz Chemical; Methyl methacrylate / ethylene glycol dimethacrylate copolymer microbeads (size: 6.5-10.5 μ) sold under the name Ganzpearl GMP 0820 by Ganz Chemical or Microsponge 5640 by the company Amcol Health & Beauty Solutions; ethyleneacrylate copolymer powders, such as those sold under the name FLOBEADS by Sumitomo Seika Chemicals; expanded powders such as hollow microspheres and in particular microspheres formed of a terpolymer of vinylidene chloride, acrylonitrile and methacrylate and marketed under the name Expancel by the company Kemanord Piast under the references 551 DE 12 (particle size distribution). about 12 μm and density 40 kg / m 3), 551 DE (particle size about 30 μm and density 65 kg / m 3), 551 DE 50 (particle size about 40 μm), or the microspheres marketed under the US Pat. MICROPEARL F 80 ED designation by the company Matsumoto; powders of natural organic materials such as starch powders, especially corn starch, wheat or rice, crosslinked or not, such as starch powders crosslinked with octenylsuccinate anhydride, sold under the name DRY-FLO by National Starch; silicone resin microbeads such as those sold under the name Tospearl 20 by the company Toshiba Silicone, in particular Tospearl 240; amino acid powders such as the Lauroyllysine powder marketed under the name Amihope LL-11 by the Ajinomoto Company; the wax microdispersion particles, which preferably have average dimensions of less than 1 μm and in particular from 0.02 μm to 1 μm, and which consist essentially of a wax or a mixture of waxes, such as the products marketed under the name Aquacer by Byk Cera, and in particular: Aquacer 520 (mixture of synthetic and natural waxes), Aquacer 514 or 513 (polyethylene wax), Aquacer 511 (polymeric wax), or such as the products marketed under the name Jonwax 120 by Johnson Polymer (a mixture of polyethylene wax and paraffin) and under the name Ceraflour 961 by Byk Cera (micronized modified polyethylene wax); and their mixtures.

ADDITIVES The cosmetic compositions according to the invention may further comprise cosmetic adjuvants chosen from softeners, antioxidants, opacifiers, stabilizers, moisturizers, vitamins, bactericides, preservatives, polymers, perfumes, thickeners or suspending agents, propellants or any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics for this type of application.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional complementary compounds in such a way that the advantageous properties intrinsically attached to the cosmetic composition according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition or additions. considered.

THICKENERS AND SUSPENSION AGENTS The thickeners may be chosen from carboxyvinyl polymers such as Carbopols (Carbomers) and Pemulen (acrylate / C10-C3oalkylacrylate copolymer); polyacrylamides, for example crosslinked copolymers sold under the names Sepigel 305 (CTFA name: polyacrylamide / C13-14 isoparaffin / Laureth 7) or Simulgel 600 (CTFA name: acrylamide / sodium acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer / isohexadecane / polysorbate 80) by the company Seppic; polymers and copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid, optionally cross-linked and / or neutralized, such as poly (2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulphonic acid) marketed by the company Hoechst under the trademark "Hostacerin AMPS" ( CTFA name: ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate or SIMULGEL 800 marketed by the company SEPPIC (CTFA name: sodium polyacryolyldimethyl taurate / polysorbate 80 / sorbitan oleate); copolymers of 2-acrylamido-2-methylpropanesulfonic acid and hydroxyethyl acrylate such as SIMULGEL NS and SEPINOV 15 EMT 10 marketed by the company SEPPIC, cellulose derivatives such as hydroxyethylcellulose, cetylhydroxyethylcellulose, polysaccharides and especially gums such as Xanthan gum, hydroxypropylated guar gums, silicas such as Bentone Gel MIO sold by the company NL INDUSTRIES or the Veegum Ultra, sold by the company i was 20 POLYPLASTIC.

The thickeners may also be cationic, for example POLYQUATERNIUM-37 sold under the name Salcare SC95 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Mineral Oil (And) PPG-1 Trideceth-6) or Salcare SC96 (Polyquaternium-37 (And) Propylene Glycol Dicaprylate / Dicaprate (And) PPG-1-Trideceth-6) or other cross-linked cationic polymer such as for example those of CTFA name Ethylacrylate / Dimethylamino Ethyl Methacrylate Cationic Emulsion Copolymer.

30 SUSPENSION AGENTS

In order to improve the homogeneity of the product, it is also possible to use one or more suspending agents which are preferably chosen from hydrophobic modified montmorillonite clays, such as hydrophobic modified bentonites or hectorites. Mention may be made, for example, of the product Stearalkonium Bentonite (CTFA name) (reaction product of bentonite and quaternary ammonium chloride stearalkonium chloride), such as the commercial product sold under the name Tixogel MP 250 by the company Sud Chemie Rheologicals, United Catalysts Inc. or the product Disteardimonium Hectorite (CTFA name) (reaction product of hectorite and distearyldimium chloride) sold under the name Bentone 38 or Bentone Gel by Elementis Specialties.

Other suspending agents may be used, in this case in hydrophilic (aqueous and / or ethanolic) media. These are cellulosic derivatives, 45 xanthan, guar starch, carob, agar agar.

The suspending agents are preferably present in amounts ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight and more preferably from 0.2 to 2% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The amounts of these various constituents that may be present in the cosmetic composition according to the invention are those conventionally used in compositions for the treatment of perspiration.

s AEROSOLS

The compositions according to the invention may be further pressurized and packaged in an aerosol device consisting of: (A) a container comprising an antiperspirant composition as defined above, (B) at least one propellant and a dispensing means of said aerosol composition.

Propellants generally used in this type of product and well known to those skilled in the art are, for example, dimethyl ether (DME); volatile hydrocarbons such as n-butane, propane, isobutane, and mixtures thereof, optionally with at least one chlorinated and / or fluorinated hydrocarbon; among these are the compounds sold by the company Dupont de Nemours under the names Freon® and Dymel®, and in particular monofluorotrichloromethane, difluorodichloromethane, tetrafluorodichloroethane and 1,1-difluoroethane sold in particular under the trade name DYMEL 152 A by the company DUPONT. It is also possible to use as propellant carbon dioxide, nitrous oxide, nitrogen or compressed air. The compositions containing the perlite particles as defined above and the propellant (s) may be in the same compartment or in different compartments in the aerosol container. According to the invention, the concentration of propellant generally varies from 5 to 95% by weight pressurized and more preferably from 50 to 85% by weight relative to the total weight of the pressurized composition.

The dispensing means, which forms part of the aerosol device, is generally constituted by a dispensing valve controlled by a dispensing head, itself comprising a nozzle through which the aerosol composition is vaporized. The container containing the pressurized composition may be opaque or transparent. It may be glass, polymeric material or metal, optionally covered with a layer of protective varnish.

The following examples serve to illustrate the present invention. The amounts are given as a percentage by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

EXAMPLES Examples 1 and 2: one-time application Ingredients ExA Ex B (outside the invention) (except the invention) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate-12.6 Copolymer (Soltex OPT-PG - Rhom & Haas) Copolymer 14-methylvinylether / anhydride monoester maleic ester (Gantrez ES225 from ISP) Glycerine 0,7 - Alcohol qs 100 qs 100 Index of antiperspirant efficacy 4 16 Ingredients Ex 1 Ex 2 (invention) (invention) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate 6.3 3, Copolymer (Soltex OPT-PG - Rhom & Haas) Methylvinyl ether / monoester maleic anhydride copolymer 10.5 (Gantrez ES225 from ISP) Glycerin 0.35 0.525 Alcohol qs 100 qs 100 Efficiency index 28 29 A test is carried out on the compositions Antiperspirant efficacy on a panel of 24 women from 18 to 60 years using a Skinchip ® type device under the following conditions.

The Skinchip ® device is a device that measures impedance and transcribes it in gray level. It consists of a matrix of sensors measuring the electrical permittivity. This depends on the hydration of the skin and the skin / sensor distance. Each sensor of the matrix gives coded information which then constitutes a black and white image. The black pixels correspond to a hydrated skin and / or to a contact between the surface of the probe and the skin. The white pixels correspond to dry skin and / or to a distance from the probe 20 with respect to the skin (wrinkle, furrow). After analyzing the relationship between black and white, we can determine the hydration state of the skin but also its texture and its relief (wrinkles). For the acquisition, we put the sensor on the studied area (size of the zone: 3x2,5cm2). Thanks to the image acquisition software, we can visualize the surface of the skin on the screen. 28 25 40 Panel 24 women 18 to 60 years wide and flat back Normal to dry skin Medium to large body sweating Lack of dermatological pathology Sebum <5pg / cm2, 2H after shower No sweating (SKINCHIP ® visualization) after 30 mn of conditioning period io Delimitation of 24 mini zones of dimension 3X2,5 cm2 16 zone products including 8 zones bare skin

Application: - Applied quantity: 33mg + 1 - 3 mg 15 - Homogeneous distribution of products with fingertip without massage - Pause products on the skin for 15 min

Sudation - Stimulation by absorption of 2 glasses of water 20 - Sauna at 40 ° C while lying down

Measurement of the efficiency One computes a reduction index of the surface occupied by sweat (product versus bare skin) 25 Kinetics of acquisition of images with SKINCHIP in the sauna after 25 minutes of sweating Images with SKINCHIP® are analyzed with the SWEATCHIP®.

2 parameters make it possible to determine the surface occupied by sweat: 30 Surface = number of spots X average size One names: S the surface occupied by the sweat treated by the composition occupied by the sweat So the surface occupied by the sweat not treated by the composition occupied by sweat The antiperspirant effectiveness index is measured at time 40 min (%) according to the following equation:

IE = 100 X (S-So) / So It is observed that the efficiency indices of Examples 1 and 2 comprising the combination of hydrophilic polymer and hydrophobic polymer are greater than the efficiency indices of the polymers taken separately. 45 s Examples 3 and 4: Two-step application Ingredients Solution C (% MA) Solution D (% MA) Acrylates / C12-22 Alkyl 4.8 - Methacrylate Copolymer (Soltex OPT-PG - Rhom & Haas) Copolymer - 7 methyl vinyl ether monoesterified maleic anhydride (Gantrez ES225 from ISP) Glycerine - 0.7 Alcohol qs 100 qsp 100 Antiperspirant method Example 3 Example 4 Application mode Application of the solution solution D solution C then application of the application of solution C solution D Waiting 10 minutes between Waiting for each application minutes between each application Proportions C / D 50/50 50/50 Efficiency Index (%) 44 25 It is shown that the application of solution C first hydrophobic polymer and then second of the hydrophilic polymer solution D is preferable for better efficiency. i0

Claims (10)

REVENDICATIONS1. Cosmetic process for treating perspiration and possibly body odors related to human perspiration, especially axillary odors, characterized in that it consists in applying to the surface of the skin and more particularly at the level of the axillaries at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one non-adhesive pressure sensitive hydrophobic film-forming polymer; said hydrophilic film-forming polymer and said hydrophobic film-forming polymer may be present in the same composition A or present in two separate compositions AI and A2 applied simultaneously or sequentially. 2. The process according to claim 1, wherein the time interval between the application of the composition AI and the application of the composition A2 varies from 5 to 15 minutes. 3. Method according to claim 1 or 2, wherein, in a first step, is applied to the skin and more particularly at the axillary level an AI composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least said hydrophobic film-forming polymer and in a second time a composition A2 comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least said hydrophilic film-forming polymer. 25 The method of any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the hydrophobic film-forming polymer is selected from: (i) interpenetrating polymer network polymers; (ii) grafted silicone polymers; (iii) copolymers of non-neutralized (meth) acrylic acid and N-tert-butylacrylamide; (iv) non-neutralized crotonic acid and vinyl acetate copolymers; (v) the tetrapolymers of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylates and C 8 -C 24 alkyl (meth) acrylate (v) mixtures thereof. 35 The method of claim 4, wherein the interpenetrating polymer (so-called IPN) network polymer of polyurethane and acrylic polymer in the form of an aqueous dispersion of particles is POLYURETHANE-2 (and) POLYMETHYL METHACRYLATE. 40 The process according to claim 4, wherein (i) the copolymers of acrylic acid and N-tert-butylacrylamide are selected from non-neutralized acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide copolymers; (Ii) the copolymer of vinyl acetate and non-neutralized crotonic acid is the copolymer of vinyl acetate / crotonic acid / tert-butyl-4-benzoate (65/10/25) in unneutralized form 7. The method of claim 4, wherein the tetrapolymer of (meth) acrylic acid, (meth) acrylates and C8-C24 alkyl (meth) acrylate is the polymer Acrylates / C12-C22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer s 8. Process according to claim 4, characterized in that the grafted silicone polymer comprises in its structure the unit of formula (II) according to: G Gl Gl (II) in which the radicals G1, which may be identical or different, represent hydrogen or a C1-C10 alkyl radical or a phenyl radical; the radicals G2, which may be identical or different, represent a C1-C10 alkylene group; G3 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated anionic monomer; G4 represents a polymeric residue resulting from the (homo) polymerization of at least one ethylenically unsaturated hydrophobic monomer; m and n are, independently of one another, equal to 0 or 1; a is an integer ranging from 0 to 50; b is an integer ranging from 10 to 350, c is an integer from 0 to 50; provided that one of the parameters a and c is different from 0. 20 9. Process according to claim 8, characterized in that the grafted silicone polymer is a propylthio grafted polydimethyl siloxane (methyl polyacrylate / methyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid). 10. The method according to claim 4, wherein the hydrophobic film-forming polymer (s) can be chosen from polymers obtained following the reaction between one or more compounds X and one or more compounds Y, at least one of compounds X and Y being a silicone compound, said compounds X and Y having reacted together by a hydrosilylation reaction, condensation or crosslinking in the presence of peroxide when they are brought into contact with each other. The process according to any one of claims 1 to 10, wherein the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is selected from polyurethanes, vinyl polymers, natural polymers and mixtures thereof. 12. The process as claimed in claim 11, in which the hydrophilic film-forming polymer is chosen from copolymers derived from C 4 -C 8 monounsaturated carboxylic acids or anhydrides, in particular monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers. The method of any one of claims 1 to 12, wherein the hydrophobic polymer / hydrophilic polymer weight ratio ranges from 25/75 to 50/50. 14. The method according to one of claims 1 to 13, wherein the composition A or the composition A1 and / or the composition A2 contains at least one additional deodorant agent and / or an additional antiperspirant agent. - (- Si-O-) a (-Si-O-) b (-Si-O-) (G2), 7S-G4 (G2) n S-G3 Gl15. Composition comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer and at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined in the preceding claims and at least one additional deodorant agent and / or an additional antiperspirant agent. 16. A two-component antiperspirant agent packaged separately, characterized in that it comprises: a) a first component consisting of a composition AI comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined in FIG. any of the preceding claims and b) a second component consisting of a composition A2 comprising in a cosmetically acceptable medium at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer as defined in any one of the preceding claims; said composition AI and / or the composition A2 may contain at least one additional deodorant agent and / or an additional antiperspirant agent. 17. A packaging assembly comprising less: (a) at least one hydrophobic film-forming polymer as defined in any one of the preceding claims; (b) at least one hydrophilic film-forming polymer as defined in any one of the preceding claims; said conditioning unit being: - either in the form of a single compartment in which at least the compounds (a) and (b) are simultaneously present; or in the form of a kit consisting of at least two separate containers, in which the compounds (a) and (b) are not simultaneously present in the same container. 30