FR2940091A1 - Lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably hair, comprises applying composition comprising fatty substances and surfactants, composition comprising organic amines and mineral bases, and composition comprising oxidizing agents - Google Patents

Abstract

Lightening or coloring of keratin fibers, preferably human keratin fibers such as hair, in the presence of an oxidizing agent, comprises applying an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a cosmetic composition (B1) comprising one or more organic amines (pKb of less than 12) and one or more mineral bases, and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents, to the keratin fibers, when the process is for dyeing keratin fibers, composition (B1) further comprises one or more oxidation dyes and/or direct dyes. Independent claims are included for: (1) the anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, one or more organic amines of which pKb is less than 12 at 25[deg] C and one or more mineral bases other than ammonia; and (2) multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the composition (A), a second compartment containing the composition (B1), and a third compartment containing the composition (C).

Description

B08-4605EN GD / GL OA 08546

Société Anonyme known as L'OREAL

Process for lightening human keratin fibers by using an organic amine and a mineral base and an appropriate device Invention of: Process for lightening human keratin fibers by using an organic amine and a mineral base and appropriate device The present invention relates to a process for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratin fibers such as the hair, which uses an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, a cosmetic composition ( B) comprising one or more organic amines and one or more inorganic bases and a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidants. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the aforementioned anhydrous cosmetic composition (A), a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more organic amines and one or more inorganic bases and a third compartment containing an oxidizing composition (C). The processes for lightening human keratin fibers consist in using an aqueous composition comprising at least one oxidizing agent, under alkaline pH conditions in the vast majority of cases. This oxidizing agent has the role of degrading the melanin of the hair, which, depending on the nature of the oxidizing agent present, leads to a more or less pronounced lightening of the fibers. Thus, for relatively low lightening, the oxidizing agent is generally hydrogen peroxide. When greater lightening is desired, it is customary to use peroxygenated salts, such as persulfates for example, in the presence of hydrogen peroxide. One of the difficulties is that the lightening process is carried out under alkaline conditions and the most commonly used alkaline agent is ammonia. The use of ammonia is particularly advantageous in this type of process. Indeed, it makes it possible to adjust the pH of the composition to an alkaline pH to allow the activation of the oxidizing agent. But this alkaline agent also causes swelling of the keratin fiber, with an opening of the scales, which promotes the penetration of the oxidizing agent inside the fiber, and thus increases the efficiency of the reaction. However, this alkalizing agent is very volatile, which causes inconvenience to the user because of the strong characteristic smell, rather annoying ammonia that emerges during the process. In addition, the amount of ammonia released requires the use of higher levels than necessary to compensate for this loss. This is not without consequences for the user who remains not only bothered by the smell but may also be faced with greater risks of intolerance, such as irritation of the scalp resulting in particular tingling. As for the option of purely and simply replacing all or part of the ammonia with one or more other conventional alkalizing agents, this does not lead to compositions as effective as those based on ammonia, in particular because these alkalinizing agents do not provide sufficient lightening of the pigmented fibers in the presence of the oxidizing agent.

Thus, one of the objectives of the present invention is to provide processes for lightening human keratin fibers which do not have the drawbacks of those used with the existing compositions, disadvantages caused by the presence of high levels of ammonia, but which remain at least as effective in terms of the clarification and homogeneity of the latter. These and other objects are achieved by the present invention which therefore relates to a process for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, in which said fibers are used: an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants; (b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more mineral bases, and (c) a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents.

Moreover, the process according to the invention makes it possible to produce compositions which do not emit an aggressive odor when they are applied to the hair. The present invention also relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, in a second compartment, a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more amines. organic compounds whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more mineral bases and, in a third compartment, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. Another subject of the invention relates to an anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C. and one or more inorganic bases other than ammonia. Other characteristics and advantages of the invention will emerge more clearly on reading the description and examples which follow. In what follows, and unless otherwise indicated, the boundaries of a domain of values are included in this field. The human keratinous fibers treated by the process according to the invention are preferably the hair. As indicated above, the lightening process is carried out in the presence of an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A).

More particularly, the term "anhydrous cosmetic composition" in the meaning of the invention is intended to mean a cosmetic composition having a water content of less than 5% by weight, preferably less than 2% by weight and even more preferably less than 1% by weight. % by weight relative to the weight of said composition. It should be noted that it is more particularly bound water, such as the water of crystallization of the salts or traces of water absorbed by the raw materials used in the production of the compositions according to the invention.

In addition, the process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of compositions comprising no direct dye or oxidation dye precursor (bases and couplers) usually used for dyeing human keratinous fibers or else they are present, their total content does not exceed 0.005% by weight relative to the weight of each of the compositions. Indeed, at such a content, only the composition would be tinted, that is to say, one would not observe staining effect of keratin fibers. Preferably, the process is carried out without oxidation base, coupler or direct dye.

As has been mentioned, the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprises one or more fatty substances. The term "fatty substance" means an organic compound which is insoluble in water at ordinary room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg) (solubility less than 5% and preferably greater than 1%, more preferably at 0.1 ° / o). They have in their structure at least one hydrocarbon chain of at least two siloxane groups. In addition, the fatty substances are generally soluble in organic solvents under the same conditions of temperature and pressure, such as for example chloroform, ethanol, benzene, petroleum jelly or decamethylcyclopentasiloxane. The fatty substances are in particular chosen from C 1 -C 4 lower alkanes, non-silicone animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acids, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters. non-silicone waxes and silicones It is recalled that for the purposes of the invention, the alcohols, esters and fatty acids more particularly have one or more linear or branched hydrocarbon groups, saturated or unsaturated, comprising from 6 to 30 atoms. carbon, optionally substituted, in particular with one or more hydroxyl groups (in particular 1 to 4). If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. the lower alkanes C6-C16, the latter are linear or branched, optionally cyclic By way of example, the alkanes may be chosen from hexane and dodecane, isoparaffins such as isohe xadecane and isodecane.

Non-silicone oils that can be used in the composition of the invention include, for example: hydrocarbon-based oils of animal origin. such as perhydrosqualene; triglycerides of vegetable or synthetic origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids, or else, for example, sunflower, corn or soybean oils. , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names MiglyolR 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin, of more than 16 carbon atoms, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, vaseline oil, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parléam`. partially fluorinated fluorinated oils; as fluorinated oils, mention may also be made of perfluoromethylcyclopentane and perfluoro-1,3-dimethylcyclohexane, sold under the names "FLUTEC" PC 1 "and" FLUTEC "PC3" by BNFL Fluorochemicals; perfluoro-1,2-dimethylcyclobutane; perfluoroalkanes such as dodecafluoropentane and tetradecafluorohexane, sold under the names "PF 5050" and "PF 5060" by the 3M Company, or bromoperfluorooctyl sold under the name "Foralkyl" by the company Atochem the nonafluoro- methoxybutane and nonafluoroethoxyisobutane; perfluoromorpholine derivatives, such as 4-trifluoromethyl perfluoromorpholine sold under the name "PF 5052" "by the company 3M. The fatty alcohols that can be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) are saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms and more particularly from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. There may be mentioned, for example, cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol. . The wax or waxes that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) are chosen in particular from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, and alfa wax, paraffin wax, ozokerite, vegetable waxes such as olive wax, rice wax, hydrogenated jojoba wax or absolute waxes of flowers such as the essential wax of blackcurrant flower sold by the company BERTIN (France), animal waxes such as waxes bees, or modified beeswaxes (cerabellina); other waxes or waxy raw materials that can be used according to the invention are, in particular, marine waxes, such as the one sold by SOPHIM under the reference M82, and polyethylene or polyolefin waxes in general. The fatty acids that may be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) may be saturated or unsaturated and contain from 6 to 30 carbon atoms, in particular from 9 to 30 carbon atoms. They are chosen more particularly from myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, behenic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and isostearic acid. As regards the esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, advantageously different from the triglycerides mentioned above, mention may be made especially of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C 1 -C 26 aliphatic mono or poly acid esters and of saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched C1-C26 aliphatic mono- or polyalcohols, the total number of carbon of the esters being more particularly greater than or equal to 10. Among the monoesters, mention may be made of dihydroabietyl behenate; octyldodecyl behenate; isoketyl behenate; cetyl lactate; C12-C15 alkyl lactate, isostearyl lactate; lauryl lactate; linoleyl lactate; oleyl lactate; (iso) stearyl octanoate; isocetyl octanoate octyl octanoate; cetyl octanoate; decyl oleate isocetyl isostearate; isocetyl laurate; isocetyl stearate; isodecyl octanoate; isodecyl oleate; isononyl isononanoate; isostearyl palmitate methyl ricinoleate acetyl; myristyl stearate; octyl isononanoate; 2-ethylhexyl isononate; octyl palmitate; octyl pelargonate octyl stearate; octyldodecyl erucate; oleyl erucate; ethyl and isopropyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, alkyl myristates such as isopropyl, butyl, cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate; , styryl, stearyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate. Still in the context of this variant, it is also possible to use esters of C 4 -C 22 di or tricarboxylic acids and of C 1 -C 22 alcohols and esters of mono di or tricarboxylic acids and di, tri, alcohols. C2-C26 tetra or pentahydroxy.

These include: diethyl sebacate; diisopropyl sebacate; diisopropyl adipate; di-propyl adipate; dioctyl adipate; diisostearyl adipate; dioctyl maleate; glyceryl undecylenate; octyldodecyl stearoyl stearate; pentaerythrityl monoricinoleate; pentaerythrityl tetraisononanoate; pentaerythrityl tetrapelargonate; pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate; pentaerythrityl tetraoctanoate; propylene glycol dicaprylate; propylene glycol dicaprate, tridecyl erucate; triisopropyl citrate; triisotearyl citrate trilactate glyceryl; glyceryl trioctanoate; trioctyldodecyl citrate; trioleyl citrate, propylene glycol dioctanoate; neopentyl glycol diheptanoate diethylene glycol diisanonate; and polyethylene glycol distearates.

Among the esters mentioned above, it is preferred to use ethyl, isopropyl, myristyl, cetyl, stearyl palmitates, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, 2-octyldecyl palmitate, myristates of alkyls such as isopropyl myristate, butyl. cetyl, 2-octyldodecyl, hexyl stearate, butyl stearate, isobutyl stearate; dioctyl malate, hexyl laurate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate and isononyl isononanate, cetyl octanoate. The composition may also comprise, as fatty ester, esters and diesters of C 6 -C 30 fatty acid sugars. preferably C1-C22. It is recalled that the term "sugar" means oxygenated hydrocarbon compounds which have several alcohol functions, with or without an aldehyde or ketone function, and which contain at least 4 carbon atoms. These sugars can be monosaccharides, oligosaccharides or polysaccharides.

Suitable sugars include, for example, sucrose (or sucrose), glucose, galactose, ribose, fucose, maltose, fructose, mannose, arabinose, xylose, lactose, and their derivatives. especially alkylated, such as methylated derivatives such as methylglucosc.

The esters of sugars and of fatty acids may be chosen in particular from the group comprising the esters or mixtures of sugar esters previously described and of C 6 -C 30 fatty acids. preferably C12-C22, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. If unsaturated, these compounds may comprise one to three carbon-carbon double bonds, conjugated or otherwise. The esters according to this variant may also be chosen from mono-, di-, tri- and tetraesters, polyesters and mixtures thereof.

These esters may be for example oleate, laurate, palmitate, myristate, behenate, cocoate, stearate, linoleate, linolenate, caprate, arachidonates, or mixtures thereof, such as in particular the mixed oleo-palmitate, oleostearate and palmito-stearate esters. More particularly, the mono- and di-esters are used, and especially the mono- or dioleate, stearate, behenate, oleopalmitate, linoleate, linolenate, oleostearate, sucrose, glucose or methylglucose. By way of example, mention may be made of the product sold under the name Glucate DO by the company Amerchol, which is a methylglucose dioleate. Mention may also be made, by way of examples, of esters or mixtures of esters of fatty acid sugar: the products sold under the names F160, F140, F110, F90, F70, SL40 by the company Crodesta, respectively denoting sucrose palmito-stearates of 73% monoester and 27% di- and tri-ester, 61% monoester and 39% di-, tri- and tetraester, 52% monoester and 48% di-, tri- and tetraester, 45% monoester and 55% di-, tri- and tetraester, 39% monoester and 61% di-, tri- and tetraester , and sucrose mono-laurate; the products sold under the name Ryoto Sugar Esters, for example referenced B370 and corresponding to sucrose behenate formed from 20% monoester and 80% di-triesterpolyester; the sucrose mono-di-palmito-stearate marketed by Goldschmidt under the name Tegosoft PSE. The silicones that can be used in the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) of the present invention are volatile or cyclic, linear or branched, volatile or non-organic group-modified silicones with a viscosity of 5 × 10 6 to 2.5 m 2 / s at 25 ° C and preferably 1.10-5 to 1 m2 / s. The silicones that can be used in accordance with the invention can be in the form of oils, waxes, resins or gums.

Preferably, the silicone is chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, in particular polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), and organomodified polysiloxanes comprising at least one functional group chosen from poly (oxyalkylene) groups, amino groups and alkoxy groups.

Organopolysiloxanes are further defined in Walter Noll's "Chemistry and Technology of Silicones" (1968), Academie Press. They can be volatile or nonvolatile. When they are volatile, the silicones are more particularly chosen from those having a boiling point of between 60 ° C. and 260 ° C., and even more particularly from: (i) cyclic polydialkylsiloxanes containing from 3 to 7, preferably from 4 to 5 silicon atoms. It is, for example, octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane sold in particular under the name VOLATILE SILICONE "7207 by UNION CARBIDE or SILBIONE R 70045 V2 by RHODIA, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane marketed under the name VOLATILE SILICONE '71 58 by UNION CARBIDE, and SILBIONE 70045 V5 by RHODIA, as well as their mixtures, mention may also be made of cyclocopolymers of the dimethylsiloxane / methylalkylsiloxane type, such as the VOLATILE SILICONE 'FZ 3109 marketed by UNION CARBIDE, of the formula: ## STR2 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR1 ## ## STR3 ## We can also mention cyclic polydialkylsiloxane mixtures with organic compounds derived from silicon, such as the octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane mixture. and tetramethylsilylpentaerythritol (50/50) and the mixture

octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane and oxy-1,1 '- (hexa-2,2,2', 2,3,3'-trimethylsilyloxy) bis-neopentane;

(ii) linear volatile polydialkylsiloxanes having 2 to 9 silicon atoms and having a viscosity of less than or equal to 5 × 10 -6 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. It is, for example, decamethyltetrasiloxane marketed in particular under the name "SH 200 "by the company TORAY SILICONE. Silicones included in this class are also described in the article published in Cosmetics and Toiletries, Vol. 91. Jan. 76, p. 27-32 - TODD & BYERS "Volatile Silicone fluids for cosmetics".

Non-volatile polydialkylsiloxanes, polydialkylsiloxane gums and resins, polyorganosiloxanes modified with the above organofunctional groups, and mixtures thereof, are preferably used.

These silicones are more particularly chosen from polydialkylsiloxanes, among which may be mentioned mainly polydimethylsiloxanes with trimethylsilyl end groups. The viscosity of the silicones is measured at 25 ° C. according to ASTM 445 Appendix C.

Among these polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may be made, without limitation, of the following commercial products:

the SILBIONEOO oils of the 47 and 70 047 series or the MIRASILC oils marketed by RHODIA, such as, for example, the 70 047 V 500 000 oil; oils of the MIRASIL series marketed by RHODIA; the oils of the 200 series of Dow Corning, such as DC200 having a viscosity of 60,000 mm 2 / s; - VISCASIL oils from GENERAL ELECTRIC and some oils from SF series (SF 96, SF 18) from GENERAL ELECTRIC. Mention may also be made of polydimethylsiloxanes with dimethylsilanol end groups known under the name of dimethiconol (CTFA), such as the oils of the 48 series from the company RHODIA. In this class of polydialkylsiloxanes, mention may also be made of the products sold under the names "ABIL WAX 9800 and 9801" by GOLDSCHMIDT, which are polydialkyl (C 1 -C 20) siloxanes.

The silicone gums that can be used in accordance with the invention are in particular polydialkylsiloxanes, preferably polydimethylsiloxanes having high average molecular weights of between 200,000 and 1,000,000 used alone or in a mixture in a solvent. This solvent may be chosen from volatile silicones, polydimethylsiloxane (PDMS) oils, polyphenylmethylsiloxane (PPMS) oils, isoparaffins, polyisobutylenes, methylene chloride, pentane, dodecane, tridecane or their mixtures. More particularly useful products according to the invention are mixtures such as: - mixtures formed from an end-hydroxylated polydimethylsiloxane, or dimethiconol (CTFA) and a cyclic polydimethylsiloxane also called cyclomethicone (CTFA) such that the product Q2 1401 marketed by the company Dow Corning; mixtures of a polydimethylsiloxane gum and a cyclic silicone such as the product SF 1214 Silicone Fluid from the company General Electric, this product is an SF 30 gum corresponding to a dimethicone, having a number average molecular weight of 500,000 solubilized in oil SF 1202 Silicone Fluid corresponding to decamethylcyclopentasiloxane; mixtures of two PDMSs of different viscosities, and more particularly of a PDMS gum and a PDMS oil, such as the product SF 1236 from the company General Electric. The product SF 1236 is the mixture of an SE 30 gum defined above having a viscosity of 20 m 2 / s and an SF 96 oil with a viscosity of 5 × 10 6 m 2 / s. This product preferably comprises 15% of SE 30 gum and 85% of an SF 96 oil.

The organopolysiloxane resins that may be used in accordance with the invention are crosslinked siloxane systems containing the units: R 2 SiO 2 O, R 3 SiO 1 RSiO 2 2 and SiO 2 O in which R represents an alkyl having 1 to 16 carbon atoms. Among these products, those that are particularly preferred are those in which R denotes a C1-C4 lower alkyl group, more particularly methyl. Among these resins may be mentioned the product sold under the name "Dow Corning 593" or those sold under the names "Silicone Fluid SS 4230 and SS 4267" by the company General Electric and which are silicones of dimethyl / trimethyl siloxane structure. Mention may also be made of the trimethylsiloxysilicate type resins sold in particular under the names X22-4914, X21-5034 and X21-5037 by the company Shin-Etsu. The organomodified silicones that may be used in accordance with the invention are silicones as defined above and comprising in their structure one or more organofunctional groups attached via a hydrocarbon-based group. In addition to the silicones described above, the organomodified silicones may be polydiarylsiloxanes, especially polydiphenylsiloxanes, and polyalkylarylsiloxanes functionalized with the organofunctional groups mentioned above. The polyalkylarylsiloxanes are especially chosen from linear and / or branched polydimethyl / methylphenylsiloxanes, linear and / or branched polydimethyl / diphenylsiloxanes with a viscosity ranging from 1 × 10 -5 to 5 × 10 -2 m 2 / s at 25 ° C. Among these polyalkylarylsiloxanes, mention may be made by way of example of the products sold under the following names: SILBIONE oils of the 70 641 series from RHODIA; - RHODORSIL 70 633 and 763 series oils from RHODIA; - DOW CORNING 556 COSMETIC GRAD FLUID oil from Dow Corning; the silicones of the PK series of BAYER, such as the product PK20; the silicones of the PN and PH series of BAYER, such as the PN 1000 and PH 1000 products; certain oils of the SF series of GENERAL ELECTRIC such as SF 1023, SF 1154, SF 1250 and SF 1265. Among the organomodified silicones, mention may be made of polyorganosiloxanes comprising: polyethyleneoxy and / or polypropyleneoxy groups optionally containing C 6 alkyl groups; -C24 such as the products called dimethicone copolyol marketed by the company Dow Corning under the name DC 1248 or the oils SILWET L 722, L 7500, L 77, L 711 of the company UNION CARBIDE and alkyl (C12) -methicone copolyol sold by the company Dow Corning under the name Q2 5200; substituted or unsubstituted amine groups such as the products sold under the name GP 4 Silicone Fluid and GP 7100 by the company Genesee or the products sold under the names Q2 8220 and Dow Corning 929 or 939 by the company Dow Corning. The substituted amino groups are, in particular, C1-C4 aminoalkyl groups; alkoxylated groups, such as the product marketed under the name "Silicone Copolymer F-755" by SWS Silicones and Abil Wax 2428, 2434 and 2440 by the company GOLDSCHMIDT. Preferably, the fatty substances do not comprise an oxyalkylenated C2-C3 unit or a glycerolated unit. More particularly, the fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The fatty substances are preferably chosen from C 6 -C 16 lower alkanes, mineral, vegetable or synthetic non-silicone oils, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and / or fatty alcohol esters and silicones. Preferably, the fatty substance or fats is or are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids and / or fatty alcohols, liquids or mixtures thereof. The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) has a fat content advantageously between 10 and 99% by weight, preferably between 20 and 90% by weight, and even more particularly between 25 and 80% by weight, relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition (A). The anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) also comprises one or more surfactants. More particularly, the surfactant or surfactants are chosen from nonionic surfactants or from anionic surfactants. The anionic surfactants are more especially chosen from salts (in particular alkali metal salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts or alkaline earth metal salts, such as magnesium), of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkylaryl polyethersulfates, monoglycerides sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin sulfonates, paraffin sulfonates; alkylphosphates, alkyl ether phosphates; alkylsulfosuccinates, alkylethersulfosuccinates, alkylamide-sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates; salts of fatty acids such as oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic or stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; salts of alkyl D galactoside uronic acids; acyl lactylates; salts of polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylarylether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylamidoether carboxylic acids, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups; and their mixtures. It should be noted that the alkyl or acyl radical of these various compounds advantageously comprises from 6 to 24 carbon atoms, and preferably from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denotes a phenyl or benzyl group. The nonionic surfactants are more particularly chosen from mono or polyoxyalkylenated, mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants. The oxyalkylenated units are more particularly oxyethylenated units, oxypropylene, or their combination, preferably oxyethylenated.

By way of examples of oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants, mention may be made of: • oxyalkylenated (C 8 -C 24) alkyl phenols, • linear or branched, oxyalkylenated C 8 -C 30 saturated or non-saturated alcohols, • C 8 amides, -C30, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, oxyalkylenated, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated, linear or branched, and of polyethylene glycols, • esters of C8-C30 acids, saturated or unsaturated polyoxyethylenated linear or branched, and sorbitol, • oxyethylenated vegetable oils, saturated or not, • condensates of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide, among others, • or mixtures thereof. Preferably, the surfactants have a number of moles of ethylene oxide and / or propylene of between 1 and 100, preferably between 2 and 50. Advantageously, the nonionic surfactants do not comprise oxypropylene units. According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the oxyalkylenated nonionic surfactants are chosen from oxyethylenated C 8 -C 18 alcohols. linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C8-C30 acid esters, and polyoxyethylenated sorbitol esters.

As an example of mono- or polyglycerolated nonionic surfactants, the C 8 -C 40 alcohols, mono- or polyglycerolated, are preferably used. In particular, mono- or polyglycerolated C 8 -C 40 alcohols correspond to the following formula: ## STR2 ## in which R represents a linear or alkyl or alkenyl radical, branched, C8-C40, preferably C8-C30. and m represents a number ranging from 1 to 30 and preferably from 1 to 10. By way of example of compounds that are suitable in the context of the invention, mention may be made of lauryl alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name POLYGLYCERYL-4 LAURYL ETHER), lauric alcohol containing 1.5 moles of glycerol, oleic alcohol containing 4 moles of glycerol (INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-4 OLEYL ETHER), oleic alcohol containing 2 moles of glycerol ( INCI name: POLYGLYCERYL-2 OLEYL ETHER), cetearyl alcohol with 2 moles of glycerol, cetearyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, oleocetyl alcohol with 6 moles of glycerol, and octadecanol with 6 moles of glycerol. The alcohol can be a mixture of alcohols in the same way that the value of ni represents a statistical value, which means that in a commercial product several species of polyglycerolated fatty alcohols can coexist as a mixture. Among the mono- or poly-glycerolated alcohols, it is more particularly preferred to use the alcohol C8 / C10 to one mole of glycerol, the alcohol C10 / C12 to 1 mole of glycerol and the alcohol C1 to 1.5 moles of glycerol. Preferably, the surfactant present in the anhydrous composition is a nonionic surfactant. The content of surfactants in the anhydrous composition (A) more particularly represents from 0.1 to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.5 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the anhydrous composition. The anhydrous composition (A) may also contain various adjuvants conventionally used in hair dyeing compositions, such as anionic, cationic, nonionic, amphoteric or zwitterionic polymers or mixtures thereof; mineral thickeners, and in particular fillers such as clays, talc; organic thickeners, with in particular the anionic, cationic, nonionic and amphoteric polymeric associative thickeners different from the polymers mentioned above; antioxidants; penetrants; sequestering agents; perfumes ; dispersants; film-forming agents; ceramides preservatives; opacifying agents.

The adjuvants above are generally present in an amount for each of them between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition (A). According to an advantageous variant of the invention, the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more inorganic thickening agents chosen from organophilic clays, pyrogenic silicas, or mixtures thereof. The organophilic clay may be selected from montmorrilonite, bentonite, hectorite, attapulgite, sepiolite, and mixtures thereof. The clay is preferably a bentonite or a hectorite. These clays can be modified with a chemical compound chosen from quaternary amines, tertiary amines, amino acetates, imidazolines, amine soaps, fatty sulphates, alkyl aryl sulphonates, amine oxides, and mixtures thereof.

As organophilic clays, mention may be made of quaternium-18 bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 3, Bentone 38, Bentone 38V by Rheox, Tixogel VP by United catalyst, Claytone 34, Claytone 40, Claytone XL by Southern Clay Company; stearalkonium bentonites such as those sold under the names Bentone 27 by Rheox, Tixogel LG by United Catalyst, Claytone AF. APA Claytone by Southern Clay; quaternium-18 / benzalkonium bentonite such as those sold under the names Claytone HT, Claytone PS by Southern Clay, Quaternium-18 Hectorites such as those sold under the names Bentone Gel DOA, Bentone Gel ECO5, Bentone Gel EUG, Bentone IPP Gel, Bentone Gel ISD, Bentone Gel SS71, Bentone Gel VS8, Bentone Gel VS38 by Rhéox and Simagel M, Simagel SI 345 by Biophil.

The fumed silicas can be obtained by high temperature hydrolysis of a volatile silicon compound in an oxyhydrogen flame, producing a finely divided silica. This process makes it possible in particular to obtain hydrophilic silicas which have a large number of silanol groups on their surface. Such hydrophilic silicas are, for example, sold under the names "AEROSIL 130", "AEROSIL 200", "AEROSIL 255", "AEROSIL 300", "AEROSIL 380" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL HS-5" , "CAB-O-SIL EH-5", "CAB-O-SIL LM-130", "CAB-O-SIL MS-55", "CAB-O-SIL M-5" by Cabot. It is possible to chemically modify the surface of the silica by chemical reaction in order to reduce the number of silanol groups. In particular, it is possible to substitute silanol groups with hydrophobic groups: a hydrophobic silica is then obtained.

The hydrophobic groups may be: trimethylsiloxyl groups, which are especially obtained by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of hexamethyldisilazane. Silicas thus treated are called "Silica silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example marketed under the references "AEROSIL R812" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-530" by the company Cabot. - Dimethylsilyloxyl or polydimethylsiloxane groups, which are obtained in particular by treatment of fumed silica in the presence of polydimethylsiloxane or dimethyldichlorosilane. Silicas thus treated are denoted "Silica dimethyl silylate" according to the CTFA (6th edition, 1995). They are for example sold under the references "AEROSIL R972", "AEROSIL R974" by the company Degussa, "CAB-O-SIL TS-610", "CAB-O-SIL TS-720" by Cabot.

The fumed silica preferably has a particle size that may be nanometric to micrometric, for example ranging from about 5 to 200 nm.

Preferably, the composition comprises a hectorite. an organomodified bentonite or an optionally modified pyrogenic silica. When present, the mineral thickening agent represents from 1 to 30% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. Advantageously, the composition is in the form of a gel or a cream. The process according to the invention is carried out in the presence of a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C. The organic amine (s) have a pKb at 25 ° C. which is less than 12, preferably less than 10, and even more preferably less than 6. It should be noted that this is the pKb corresponding to the basicity function. the highest. According to a first variant of the invention, the organic amine comprises a primary, secondary or tertiary amine functional group, and one or more linear or branched C1-C8 alkyl groups carrying one or more hydroxyl radicals.

In particular, organic amines chosen from alkanolamines, such as mono-, di- or trialkanolamines, comprising one to three identical or different C 1 -C 4 hydroxyalkyl radicals are suitable. Among compounds of this type, there may be mentioned monoethanolamine. diethanolamine, triethanolamine, monoisopropanolamine, diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3 amino-1,2-propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, tris-hydroxymethylaminomethane. Organic amines of the following formula are also suitable:

In which W is a C1-C6 alkylene radical optionally substituted with a hydroxyl group or a C1-C6 alkyl radical. Rx, Ry, Rz and Rt, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom, a C1-C6 alkyl or C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl, C1-C6 aminoalkyl radical. Examples of such amines include 1,3-diaminopropane, 1,3-diaminopropanol, spermine and spermidine.

According to a second variant of the invention, the organic amine is chosen from amino acids. More particularly, the amino acids that can be used are of natural or synthetic origin, in their L, D, or racemic form, and comprise at least one acid function chosen more particularly from the carboxylic, sulphonic, phosphonic or phosphoric acid functions. Amino acids can be in neutral or ionic form. As amino acids that may be used in the present invention, mention may in particular be made of aspartic acid, glutamic acid, alanine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline, asparagine, carnitine and cysteine. , glutamine, glycine, histidine, lysine, isoleucine, leucine, methionine, N-phenylalanine, prolinc, serine, taurine, threonine, tryptophan, tyrosine and valine.

Advantageously, the amino acids are basic amino acids comprising an additional amine function optionally included in a ring or in a ureido function. Such basic amino acids are preferably chosen from those corresponding to the following formula (I): ## STR2 ## where R denotes a group chosen from: - (CH 2) 3 NH 2; - (CH 2) 2 NH 2; - (CH2) 2NHCONH2; The compounds corresponding to the formula (1) are histidine, lysine, arginine, ornithine, citrulline. According to a third variant of the invention, the organic amine 10 is chosen from heterocyclic organic amines. In addition to the histidine already mentioned in the amino acids, mention may in particular be made of pyridine, piperidine, imidazole, triazole, tetrazole and benzimidazole. According to a fourth variant of the invention, the organic amine is chosen from amino acid dipeptides. As amino acid dipeptides that can be used in the present invention, mention may be made especially of carnosine, anserine and whale. According to a fifth variant of the invention, the organic amine is chosen from compounds comprising a guanidine function. Thus, the organic amine may be chosen from guanidine, arginine already mentioned as amino acid, creatine, creatinine, 1,1-dimethylguanidine, 1,1-diethylguanidine, glycocyamine, metformin, agmatine, n-amidinoalanine, 3-guanidinopropionic acid, 4-guanidinobutyric acid and 2 - [(amino (imino) methyl] amino) ethane-1-sulfonic acid. Preferably, the organic amine or amines are chosen from alkanolamines, basic amino acids and compounds containing a guanidine function. In particular, the organic amine or amines are alkanolamines chosen from monoethanolamine, diethanolamine, triethanolamine and monoisopropanolamine. , diisopropanolamine, N-dimethylaminoethanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1-propanol, triisopropanolamine, 2-amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 3-amino-1,2- propanediol, 3-dimethylamino-1,2-propanediol, trishydroxymethylaminomethanc.

Even more preferably, the organic amine (s) are alkanolamines and in particular monoethanolamine. Advantageously, the cosmetic composition (B) has a content of organic amine (s) ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. The cosmetic composition (B) also comprises one or more mineral bases. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "inorganic compound" means any compound having in its structure one or more elements of columns 1 to 13 of the periodic table of elements other than hydrogen. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the mineral base contains one or more elements of columns 1 and 2 of the periodic table of elements other than hydrogen.

In a preferred variant, the mineral base has the following structure: embedded image in which: Z 2 denotes a metal of the columns 1 to 13 of the periodic table of the elements, preferably 1 or 2, as shown in FIG. sodium or potassium Z1 \ - denotes an anion chosen from ions 0032, OH-, HCO32-, SiO32-, HPO42-, PO43-, B4O72, preferably from the ions CO; -OH-, SiO2; x is 1, 2 or 3; y is 1, 2, 3 or 4; ni and n denote independently of one another 1, 2, 3 or 4; with n.y = m.x. Preferably, the mineral base corresponds to the following formula (Z1 '-) ,,, (Z2') ,,, in which Z2 denotes a metal of columns 1 and 2, of the periodic table of the elements; Z1'- denotes an anion chosen from the ions CO2, OH-, SiO32-, x is equal to 1, y denotes 1 or 2, m and n denote independently of one another 1 or 2 with n.y = m.x. As a mineral base used according to the invention include sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate. Preferably the mineral base is an alkaline carbonate. Advantageously, the composition (B) has a content of mineral base (s) ranging from 0.01 to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1 to 20% by weight relative to the weight of said composition. . Preferably, the weight ratio organic amine (s) whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C / mineral base (s) ranges from 0.1 to 10. The cosmetic composition (B) can be an anhydrous or aqueous composition. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water. preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and still more preferably more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the cosmetic composition (B) is an aqueous composition. Preferably the composition (B) contains water. Even more preferentially, the water concentration can range from 10 to 90%, better still from 20 to 80%, of the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition (B) can optionally comprise one or more solvents. Examples of organic solvents that may be mentioned include linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the cosmetic composition (B), and preferably ranging from 5 to 30% by weight.

The cosmetic composition (B) may also comprise conventional additives such as those which have been listed previously and it will be possible to refer to them. The pH of the cosmetic composition (B) if it is aqueous is between 2 and 13, preferably between 8 and 12. The pH is adjusted by using additional acidifying or alkalizing agents, such as those mentioned below. Among the additional acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid, citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. As regards the additional alkalinizing agent, if it is present, it may be chosen from the non-salified organic amines described above, or possibly, although not preferably, ammonia. If however ammonia was used as additional alkalizing agent in the composition (B), then its content would preferably be less than or equal to 0.03% by weight of the final composition (expressed as NH3). more particularly less than or equal to 0.01% by weight relative to the final composition. It is indicated that the final composition results from the mixing of the compositions (A), (B) and (C), these mixtures being made either before application to the keratinous fibers (extemporaneous preparation) or directly to the keratinous fibers (successive applications with or without premixes and without intermediate rinsing). Finally, the process is carried out with a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. More particularly, the oxidizing agent (s) is (are) chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide, alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides, peroxygenated salts such as, for example, persulfates, perborates, peracids and their precursors, alkali or alkaline earth metal percarbonates and peracids and their precursors. One or more oxidation-reduction enzymes such as laccases, peroxidases and 2-electron oxidoreductases (such as uricase) may also be used as the oxidizing agent, optionally in the presence of their respective donor or cofactor. This oxidizing agent is advantageously constituted by hydrogen peroxide and especially in aqueous solution (hydrogen peroxide) whose concentration may vary, more particularly from 0.1 to 50% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight. by weight, better from 1 to 15% by weight relative to the oxidizing composition (C).

Depending on the desired degree of lightening, the oxidizing agent may also comprise an oxidizing agent preferably chosen from peroxygenated salts. The oxidizing composition (C) may be aqueous or non-aqueous. By aqueous composition is meant a composition comprising more than 5% by weight of water, preferably more than 10% by weight of water, and even more advantageously more than 20% by weight of water. Preferably, the oxidizing composition (C) is an aqueous composition. It may also include one or more organic solvents. As an organic solvent, it is possible, for example, to mention. linear or branched C 2 -C 4 alkanols, such as ethanol and isopropanol; glycerol; polyols and polyol ethers such as 2-butoxyethanol, propylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, diethylene glycol monoethyl ether and monomethyl ether, as well as aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol or phenoxyethanol, and mixtures thereof.

The solvent or solvents, if present, represent a content usually ranging from 1 to 40% by weight relative to the weight of the oxidizing composition (C), and preferably from 5 to 30% by weight. The oxidizing composition (C) may comprise one or more acidifying agents. Among the acidifying agents, mention may be made, for example, of mineral or organic acids such as hydrochloric acid, orthophosphoric acid, sulfuric acid, carboxylic acids such as acetic acid, tartaric acid citric acid, lactic acid, sulphonic acids. Usually, the pH of the oxidizing composition (C), when it is aqueous, is less than 7. The oxidizing composition (C) may also contain other ingredients conventionally used in the field, such as those detailed previously in the context of the present invention. of the anhydrous composition (A). Finally, the oxidizing composition (C) is in various forms, such as a solution, an emulsion or a gel. Preferably, the composition resulting from the mixture of compositions (A), (B) and (C) is free of ammonia. According to a first variant of the invention, a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing, at the time of use, of the anhydrous composition (A), of the composition (B) and of the composition (B), is applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet. the oxidizing aqueous composition (C) mentioned above. This variant is preferred. In this variant, the weight ratios R1 of the amounts of compositions (A) + (B) / (C) and R2 of the amounts of compositions (A) / (B) range from 0.1 to 10, and preferably from 0, 3 to 3. According to a second variant of the process, the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied to the keratin fibers, dry or wet, successively and without intermediate rinsing. Preferably, the compositions (A), then (B), then (C) or (B) and (A) and then (C) are applied.

According to another variant, it is also possible to apply successively and without intermediate rinsing the resulting mixture of compositions (A) and (B), and then the composition (C). In addition, irrespective of the variant used, the mixture present on the fibers (resulting either from the extemporaneous mixture of the compositions (A), (B) and (C) or from their successive partial or total application) is left in place to a duration, in general, of the order of 1 minute to 1 hour, preferably 5 minutes to 30 minutes.

The temperature during the process is typically between room temperature (between 15 and 25 ° C) and 80 ° C, preferably between room temperature and 60 ° C. At the end of the treatment, the human keratin fibers are optionally rinsed with water, optionally washed with a shampoo followed by rinsing with water, before being dried or allowed to dry. The present invention also relates to an anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more inorganic bases other than ammonia. Preferably, the anhydrous composition comprising one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C. and one or more inorganic bases chosen from sodium carbonate, sodium carbonate and potassium, soda, potash, sodium metasilicate, potassium metasilicate. Even more preferably, the mineral base (s) used in the anhydrous composition are chosen from alkaline carbonates. Finally. the invention relates to a multi-compartment device comprising in a first compartment an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, and in a second, a composition (B) comprising one or more organic amines of which pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more inorganic bases and, in a third, an aqueous composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents. The following examples serve to illustrate the invention without, however, being limiting in nature.

EXAMPLES Example 1 The following compositions are prepared (the amounts are expressed in grams unless otherwise stated): Anhydrous Composition (A): Sorbitan monolaurate oxyethylenated ~ 17 (40E) Pyrogenic Silica Hydrophobic 11.1 Vaseline Oil Qsp 100 Cosmetic Composition (B): Potassium Carbonate 7.25 Monoethanolamine 9.50 Demineralized Water Qsp 100 10 At the time of use, 10 parts by weight of the anhydrous composition (A), 4 parts by weight of the composition are mixed. (B), and 15 parts by weight of aqueous oxidizing composition (C) comprising 6% of hydrogen peroxide at pH 2.3. The resulting mixture, whose pH is approximately 9, is then applied. on a chestnut wick (pitch 3) natural. The mixing bath / wick ratio is respectively 10/1 (g / g). The exposure time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this time, the locks are rinsed and then washed with Elsève multivitamin shampoo. 32 A good level of lightening is obtained without release of aggressive odor. By way of comparison, the comparative ammonia-based composition 1 is prepared (unless otherwise indicated, the amounts are also expressed in grams). Comparative Composition 1: Oleyl alcohol polyglycerolated with 2 moles of glycerol 4 Oleyl alcohol polyglycerolated with 4 moles of glycerol 5.69 MA Oleic acid 3 Oleic amine with 2 moles of ethylene oxide sold under the trade name ETHOMEEN 012 by the company Akzo Laurylamino diethylaminopropyl succinamate, 3M sodium salt MA 55% Active ingredients Oleic alcohol 5 Oleic acid diethanolamide 12 Ethyl alcohol 7 Propylene glycol 3.5 Dipropylene glycol 0.5 Propylene glycol monomethyl ether 9 Ammonium acetate 0.8 Ammonia at 20% NH3 (of which 41.15% NH4OH) 10.2 Demineralized water qs 100 g At the time of use, the comparative composition 1 is mixed weight for weight with an aqueous oxidizing composition comprising 6% by weight of hydrogen peroxide at a pH of 2.3.

The mixture thus obtained, whose pH is approximately equal to 9, is then applied to a natural brown wick (pitch 3). The mixing bath / wick ratio is respectively 10/1 (g / g). The break time is 30 minutes at 27 ° C. At the end of this break time, the lock is rinsed, then washed with Elsève vitamins shampoo. The implementation of the process according to the invention (Example 1) does not emit any aggressive odor, unlike the implementation of the method with the comparative composition 1 which emits a strong ammonia odor.

Claims (18)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for lightening keratinous fibers, in particular human keratinous fibers such as the hair, characterized in that the following are used on said keratinous fibers: (a) an anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants, (b) a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more organic amines having a pKb of less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more inorganic bases, and (c) a composition (C) comprising a or several oxidizing agents. 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the anhydrous cosmetic composition (A) has a water content of less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the anhydrous composition (A). 3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the one or more fatty substances are chosen from liquid or pasty compounds at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. 4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from C6-C16 lower alkanes, fatty alcohols, fatty acid esters and fatty alcohol esters. non-silicone oils of mineral origin of more than 16 carbon atoms, or of plant or synthetic origin, non-silicone waxes, silicones. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the fatty substance or fats are chosen from liquid petroleum jelly, polydecenes, esters of fatty acids or fatty alcohols, liquids or mixtures thereof. 6. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the anhydrous composition (A) comprises one or more surfactants chosen from nonionic surfactants, in particular mono- or polyoxyalkylenated and mono- or poly-substituted nonionic surfactants. - glycerolated. 7. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine has a pKh of less than 10, preferably less than 6. 8. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine (s) are chosen from alkanolamines, basic amino acids and compounds containing a guanidine function. 9.Procédé according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the organic amine is an alkanolamine, in particular monoethanolamine. 10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral base (s) are chosen from sodium carbonate, potassium carbonate, sodium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, sodium metasilicate and potassium metasilicate. 11. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the mineral base (s) are chosen from alkaline carbonates. 12. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio of organic amine (s) whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C / mineral base (s) ranges from 0, 1 to 10. 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition (C) comprises one or more oxidizing agents chosen from hydrogen peroxide, urea peroxide and alkali metal bromates or ferricyanides. 14. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the compositions (A), (B) and (C) are applied successively and without intermediate rinsing. 15. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 13, characterized in that it is applied successively and without intermediate rinsing the composition resulting from the mixture prior to the application of the compositions (A) and (B) and the oxidizing composition (VS). 16. Process according to any one of Claims 1 to 13, characterized in that a composition obtained by extemporaneous mixing before application is applied to compositions (A), (B) and (C). 17. An anhydrous composition characterized in that it comprises one or more fatty substances, one or more surfactants, one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more inorganic bases other than ammonia. 18. Multi-compartment device comprising a first compartment containing the anhydrous composition (A) comprising one or more fatty substances and one or more surfactants according to any one of claims 1 to 6, a second compartment containing a cosmetic composition (B) comprising one or more organic amines whose pKb is less than 12 at 25 ° C and one or more mineral bases according to any one of claims 1 and 7 to 12, and in a third compartment, a composition (C) comprising one or more oxidizing agents according to any one of claims 1 and 13.