FR2939284A1 - PROCESS FOR OPTICALLY PROCESSING A KERATINIC FIBER PROVIDING A REMANENCE OF THE PRECEDING FORM IRRADIATION - Google Patents

Abstract

A method for treating keratin fibers, comprising the steps of: a) shaping at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber (F), b) exposing said portion to at least one light pulse (R) tending to confer a remanent deformation to the fiber, especially a remanent form corresponding to that where it was brought.

Description

The present invention relates to the cosmetic treatment of keratinous fibers. The invention relates more particularly to the permanent modification of the shape of the hair and eyelashes. Background Many people want to change the shape of their hair. A goal may be for example to increase or decrease the volume of the hair. There are hairdressing methods using the drying of keratinous fibers in a given form. This approach, which is used in styling or blow-drying, is based on the creation of ionic bonds inside the keratinous fibers, and has the advantage of not or very little damage to the keratinous fibers. However this shaping does not persist after a washing of the hair and even in the absence of washing, the form does not manage to remain more than a few days. Another approach relies on the use of chemical compounds capable of interacting with certain covalent bonds of keratinous fibers. These treatments are called chemical treatments of permanent modification of the form. Different chemical compositions can be used, such as thiol reducers, in particular thioglycolic acid and cysteine, or sulphite or alkaline reducing agents. These chemical compounds make it possible to modify the internal bonds of the keratinous fibers such as the disulfide bonds of the proteins or the peptide bonds. The shape thus obtained is resistant to washing and can last several months. However, this type of chemical treatment can make the porous fibers, the abyss and fragile, can give them a rough appearance, or softened when wet. In addition, coloration or discoloration is generally not associated with a permanent chemical shaping, because the two processes weaken the keratinous fibers and their combination could lead to breakage, for example of the base or points, of the hair . Finally, the chemical shaping treatments may emit an unpleasant odor, for example a thiolated odor, during their application or during subsequent washing of the hair.

Publications EP685220, US4792341, US5303722, EP6851180 and US5246019 disclose hair bleaching techniques by subjecting the hair to light pulses.

Infrared light is also used in a known manner to accelerate chemical hair treatment processes. In itself, it does not bring about a transformation effect of the shape of the hair. US 5,875,789 discloses a method of deforming hair using ultrasound. This method is described as permitting to make a perm or to smooth the hair, as desired, the passage from one form to another being reversible. SUMMARY The object of the present invention is to provide a process for shaping keratinous fibers, in particular the hair, which allows a lesser degradation of the hair and a better compatibility with other hair treatments such as coloring and / or discoloration. The subject of the present invention is a process for treating keratin fibers, comprising the steps of: a) shaping at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber, b) exposing said portion to at least one light pulse tending to conferring a remanent deformation to the fiber, especially a shape corresponding to that where it was brought. Exposure to the light pulse may allow formation within the fiber of internal bonds, such as, for example, covalent bonds, which contribute to the remanence of the shape. Thanks to the invention, curly or curly hair can be made smooth or naturally smooth hair can be curled or twisted. The treatment can be done with or without fading keratinous fibers. The treatment can be carried out on one or more portions of the fiber, for example less than 1 mm in length each, or even less than 300 μm. The treatment can give the fiber a change in direction of its longitudinal axis of at least 5 mm. ° on both sides of the treated portion. The light pulse (s) may be emitted by at least one optical output of an irradiation device. The invention makes it possible not to damage the keratinous fibers. Another advantage is that the shaping treatment according to the invention is compatible with coloration or discoloration or chemical treatments. In addition, the treatment does not emit odors or leave any residual odor. The treatment method according to the invention can be carried out if it is desired to be completely dry, inducing for example a saving of time and the possibility of visualizing the shape of the hair at the same time as it is treated. The method can also be performed without contact with the scalp, which makes it suitable for people with a sensitive scalp. The treated keratinous fibers may be body hair, hair, eyelashes or eyebrows. The shaping of the keratin fibers, before they are exposed to the light pulse or pulses, can be carried out in various ways, for example by applying a stress of deflection, straightening, compression, torsion, traction and / or tension. The deflection can be operated with or without tension along the fiber. Torsion can occur with or without bending, with or without tension along the fiber. The fiber can be under tension or without tension during irradiation. There are two possibilities to predict the mechanical tension. A direct voltage, that is to say the one applied at the same time as the light treatment or a stored voltage, for example, created before the light treatment: to extend curly hair or to curl 20 straight hair. The shaping can be carried out by applying a stress exerted by a device for applying a stress, for example coming into contact with at least one keratinous fiber. The stress may exist at the time of irradiation or cease before irradiation, the fiber having retained some deformation related to the application of stress. The shaping may be carried out using a malleable or otherwise deformable object that can retain the shape in which it is brought, and to which the fiber or fibers to be treated are fixed. The application of the constraint may, for example, comprise a step of positioning the keratinous fibers in a guiding passage for the keratin fibers of this device for applying the constraint, so that they take the desired shape in front of the exit optical radiation device delivering the light pulse or pulses. The device for applying the stress and the irradiation device can be integrated within the same apparatus. To shape the fiber (s), a force, such as traction, may be exerted on the fiber (s) to bend, bend or press against a surface, which may define the optical output, if any. Traction can be exerted by pinching or pulling or rubbing a tool into contact with it. The tension can be exerted by a breath or an aspiration. A step of orienting the optical output relative to the portion of the keratin fiber to be fixed in its shape may precede the step of exposure to the light pulse (s). A step of manual adjustment, automatic or semi-automatic, of the irradiation device and / or the device for applying the stress can precede the shaping step and / or the step of exposure to light. The shaping can be carried out at least partially by a treatment comprising wetting, for example with water, keratinous fiber, and its possible drying. The shaping can be carried out at least partially by a composition applied to the surface of the keratinous fiber, for example a composition inducing a stress on the keratinous fiber during its drying. Several sections of a keratinous fiber, separated from each other, can be treated, successively or simultaneously. The treated keratinous fiber may be subjected, before the irradiation, to variable or non-variable mechanical stress as a function of the position along the keratin fiber. For example, one can give several sections of the treated fiber the same shape or different shapes, prior to irradiation. Different stresses in terms of intensity and / or direction can be applied to these sections. The steps a) and b) above can be applied successively, at least twice, on the same portion of keratin fiber or on different portions. This may allow for example to reduce the energy of the irradiation. The repetition of step a) may possibly consist in maintaining the portion of the fiber in the configuration it had during the first irradiation or in gradually increasing the applied stress, for example to increase or decrease the curvature and / or the twist of the fiber.

The light pulse can satisfy at least one of the following characteristics, and preferably the majority or all of them: - a number of shots greater than or equal to 2, better 5 or even 10, 100 or 1000, - a pulse duration ranging from 10-16 s to 10-5 s, better 10-15 s to 10- 's, 5 - a wavelength ranging from 300 nm to 2000 nm, for example between 400 and 1050 nm, better 500 and 600 nm - a surface energy on the treated fiber ranging from 0.01 × 10 -3 J / mm 2 to 50 × 10 -3 J / mm 2, for example from 0.5 mJ / mm 2 to 10 mJ / mm 2 . a peak power ranging from 1.106 W to 1000 × 109 W, for example from 10 1 GW / mm 2 to 100 GW / mm 2. The treatment may comprise the selection of one of several treatment conditions, depending on the desired degree of remanent deformation. For example, it is possible to select the shooting frequency and / or the number of shots according to the desired result. The same portion of keratinous fiber may be subjected, during the treatment, to a plurality of pulses, in particular between 1 and 10,000 pulses, more preferably 5 to 10,000 pulses, preferably with a pulse frequency ranging from 5 Hz to 105 Hz. better 100 Hz to 105 Hz, better 500 Hz to 105 Hz. Two sections of the same fiber can be processed with different light pulses, such as the frequency of the shots, the number of shots and / or the fluence, for example. This may allow for example for the same constraint, to obtain different shapes after irradiation, without changing the setting of the application device of the constraint. This allows for example the use of the same device for applying the constraint while having variable results. The irradiation device may comprise a laser, associated for example with at least one optical component for deflecting and / or diffracting the produced beam and / or a scanning device for deflecting the produced beam. The scanning may allow for example to treat successively several sections of the same keratin fiber and / or several fibers of the same wick. The irradiation device may comprise a non-linear optical component, for example a wavelength divider, to modify the wavelength of the light leaving the laser before it reaches the fibers.

The irradiation device may comprise a collimation device and / or one or more optical filters adapted for example to the color of the treated keratinous fibers. According to a nonlimiting particularity of implementation of the invention, a treatment system arranged to control the operation of the irradiation device is used to move the device for applying the stress relative to the keratin fiber or to the displacement of the fiber relative to the irradiation device, in the absence of a device for applying the stress. This makes it possible, for example, to treat several regions of a fiber automatically and offers the possibility of performing more complex treatments. For example, the light pulses may be emitted at predetermined intervals on the keratin fiber, during the movement thereof relative to the irradiation device. A keratinous fiber displacement sensor can transmit a signal representative of the movement of the keratinous fibers relative to the irradiation device to a processing unit of the processing system, which executes, for example, a program that can be parameterized as a function of characteristics of the device for application of the keratin fibers. the stress and the irradiation device. The shaping step a) can be carried out manually, for example by deformation of the keratinous fibers by bending and / or twisting, with a clamp or another hand-held tool, for example a brush or a comb. The tool used to shape the hair may possibly be left in the hair, being for example a curler or a small plastic object such as a hollow cylindrical object in which one can engage fibers and to transmit the light. The irradiation step may be followed, if necessary, by a step of automatic release of the keratinous fibers by the forceps or other tool used for shaping. The irradiation may be triggered by the user or triggered automatically, for example when a certain contact pressure with the keratinous fiber or fibers is reached and / or when the irradiation device is in a certain position relative to the one or more fibers to be treated and / or when a desired degree of deformation of the fiber is achieved. For example, a deformation of the fiber is observed by a camera and the irradiation is triggered when the fiber goes through a predefined state of deformation.

Another object of the present invention is a treatment system for inducing a remanent deformation in at least a portion of at least one keratin fiber, especially a lock of hair, comprising: a shaping device of at least one portion of the keratinous fiber, in particular of the lock of hair, for example by application of a bending, straightening, compression, twisting and / or tensile stress, - an irradiation device for exposing said portion of the hair, keratin fiber and shaped to a light pulse tending to impart to the fiber a remnant deformation, including a deformation corresponding to that conferred by the device for applying the stress. The remanent change in the form induced by the treatment may be visible to the naked eye. The device for applying the stress may for example create an angle on the longitudinal axis of the fiber, for example between 5 and 180 °, or more. The device for applying the stress and the optical output of the device irradiation can be integrated in the same handpiece, and thus be handled simultaneously by the user. The entire irradiation device can be portable and integrated into the handpiece. Alternatively, the optical output is connected by one or more optical fibers to a light generator, for example a laser. This light generator can belong to a base station, static during processing. In another variant, the handpiece comprises a light generator, electrically powered by a base station connected to the handpiece by at least one electric cable. The treatment system may or may not include a device for cooling or heating the keratinous fibers exposed to the light pulse or pulses. The cooling device may be integrated with the handpiece or be located at least partially in a base station connected to the handpiece by at least one duct in which air or liquid circulates. The cooling of the fibers can make it possible to increase the irradiation energy. Heating the fibers may be useful for shaping them prior to irradiation. The treatment system, for example the handpiece and / or the stress application device, may have a gripping surface defined by two branches of a gripper or a handle. When the gripping surface is defined by two branches of a clamp, the latter serves for example to shape the hair, when actuated prior to irradiation. The treatment system can be arranged to apply a composition to the fiber (s) to be treated or already irradiated. The treatment system may comprise a fluid reservoir to be applied to the keratinous fibers, for example by direct or indirect application. The applied fluid may be a keratinous fiber conditioning fluid applied to the fibers prior to irradiation. This fluid has, for example, tensile properties and comprises, for example, polymers, resins or reactive polymers or materials capable of shrinking or expanding over time, by evaporation or by crosslinking. Thus, the conditioning fluid can be at the origin of the form given to the fibers prior to irradiation, for example curling or stiffening, or can help to maintain them in a form given to them by the user, which is for example a hairdresser. The conditioning fluid may also be a medium whose refractive index is greater than or equal to 1.3 and for example less than or equal to 1.5, for example an alcohol, a polyol, a ketone or a silicone. The use of a relatively high refractive index fluid can facilitate the transmission of light to the fiber and can improve the efficiency of the irradiation treatment. Irradiation of the fiber or fibers by the treatment system can be carried out in a treatment zone defined at least partially by a wall of the treatment system, on which the optical output can open. The latter can be defined by a window, a lens or the end of an optical conduit, for example. The optical output can be further defined by a movable member such as for example a mirror, possibly controlled by one or more motors so as to control the direction of the emitted light. A pilot light may be emitted prior to irradiation, to know the location of the impact of the treatment light beam, if any.

A deformable material can fill a housing of the treatment zone, so as to press the fiber or fibers to be treated against the aforementioned wall or against a guide passage, for their shaping.

A protective screen may be arranged opposite the optical output, behind the fiber or fibers to be treated, so as to prevent the propagation of light rays outside the treatment system. The treatment system can be arranged to prohibit the initiation of irradiation in situations that do not make it possible to obtain the desired result, for example capable of degrading the fiber or of being ineffective. Triggering and / or stressing can be done automatically when moving a handpiece of the treatment system along the fibers.

The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description, non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing, in which: FIG. example of the shape of the power of a light pulse as a function of time, - Figures 2 to 4 show, schematically, examples of treated keratinous fibers, - Figure 5 is a block diagram of an example of processing system, - Figures 6 to 9 show, schematically and partially, other examples of processing systems, - Figures 10 and 11 are block diagrams illustrating examples of methods according to the invention, and - Figure 12 shows an example of mounting two hairs for remanent deformation tests. Irradiation devices The invention uses an irradiation of keratinous fibers by pulsed light, that is to say by pulses of light. These pulses can be generated in various ways, preferably with the aid of a laser, but other sources, for example a flash lamp, are conceivable provided that the pulses adapted to induce deformation of the keratinous fibers can be delivered.

The light used for the treatment according to the invention has a relatively short pulse duration and a relatively large peak power.

The pulse duration denotes the period of time during which the light power reaching the keratinous fibers is greater than or equal to half of its peak power Pc, as represented in FIG. 1. The keratin fibers are, for example, exposed locally, same location, with several successive pulses. Advantageously, successive pulses make it possible to reduce the risk of damaging the keratinous fibers, the fibers then being irradiated progressively. The duration of a pulse is for example between 10-16 s and 10-5 s, better between 10-15 s and 10- 's.

The number of light pulses at which the same portion of the keratinous fibers is exposed is for example adjusted according to the surface energy of the radiation which reaches the keratinous fibers, the color of the keratinous fibers and the treatment to be carried out. In a nonlimiting manner, in the case where several shots are taken on the same portion of keratinous fiber, the rate of shots is preferably greater than or equal to 5 Hz, or even 100 Hz, or even greater than or equal to 200 Hz, 500 Hz or 1 kHz, and preferably less than 100 kHz. Advantageously, the storage by the keratin fiber of the given form, under the effect of light, is obtained very rapidly, for example in less than a millisecond. Without limitation, the dominant wavelength of the light reaching the fibers may be between 300 nm and 10000 nm, preferably between 400 nm and 2000 nm. The dominant wavelength may belong to the visible spectrum, ultraviolet or infrared.

Without limitation, various optical filters, absorbent or dichroic, can be used to filter the light irradiating the fiber, such as filters rejecting ultraviolet or color filters to protect the natural or artificial color of keratin fibers . These colored filters make it possible, for example, to eliminate or strongly reduce certain components of the light that correspond, for example, to the hair dye absorption band or to other absorption bands.

The characteristics of the light emitted are, for example, set manually or automatically, optical components being for example designed to be changed or moved so as to modify the focus or the dominant wavelength of the light. The selection of the wavelength of the light projected onto the fibers to be treated is for example carried out automatically or manually. A user can for example manually change an optical component such as a lens or a filter in which passes, during use, the light radiation. Servo-control can also be provided to achieve an automatic adjustment of irradiation parameters, for example via an adjustment of one or more optical components, this or these optical components being for example displaced by actuators controlled by one or more control signals . These are for example transmitted by the computing unit of the processing system according to data received from one or more sensors, such as for example an optical sensor or a camera that can detect different colors or natures of hair.

An automatic adjustment can still be made based at least on responses to a questionnaire concerning the hair of the person to be treated. The power supply of the irradiation device can be autonomous, for example be portable and integrated into a handpiece. In a nonlimiting manner, attosecond lasers whose pulse duration ranges from 10-18 to 10-15 seconds, femtosecond lasers with a pulse duration of 10 -15 seconds to 10-12 seconds or picosecond lasers whose pulse duration is 10-12 seconds to 1 ns. It is possible to use flash pumped lasers which generally have a pulse duration in the vicinity ranging from ten picoseconds to nanoseconds or diode-pumped lasers whose pulse duration generally ranges from one nanosecond to one hundred of nanoseconds. It is also possible to use femtosecond lasers, which are generally diode pumped, and which utilize materials having a wideband gain and a suitable mode-locking device, either semiconductor or dye.

We can also use femtosecond lasers using a neodymium yag doubled laser (532nm) (pumped by flash or by diode), to achieve the pumping of a sapphire titanium material (around 800 nm). The irradiation device comprises for example a laser having a cavity formed by two mirrors located on either side of a broadband amplifying material, for example based on titanium-sapphire or ytterbium-based. The cavity may also be formed by an optical fiber made of an amplifier material. The irradiation device may comprise a mode-locking device. The irradiation device may comprise a lens associated with the laser, having a numerical aperture of, for example, between 0.1 and 10, such as a lens used for reading optical storage disks. The irradiation device may also include a coupler for injecting the pump light and a coupler for extracting the laser pulses. The pumping light is for example produced by a diode but can also be produced by a flash lamp or by another laser.

Whatever the light generator used, each shot has for example a peak power of 1 MW to 1000 GW, better 1 MW to 100 GW. The irradiation device uses for example a laser whose average electrical power is between 0.001 W and 50 W and which delivers for example peak powers ranging from 1 MW to 100 GW.

The number of shots suffered by the treated portion is for example between 1 and 10,000 shots, preferably between 5 and 1000 shots. The light reaching the keratin fibers has for example a fluence of the order of 0.1 to a few J / cm 2, for example less than 5 J / cm 2. The fluence can for example vary from 0.01mJ / mm to 50mJ / mm, for example depending on the yields, pulse durations or adjustments made depending on the type of hair. A user interface, for example with a screen and one or more selection keys, may for example make it possible to choose from different operating modes and / or to modify the duration of the pulses, the energy supplied by the shot and / or the frequency of the pulses. shots, as described later.

Non-linear optical components may be used to double or triple the frequency or to spread the spectrum of light reaching the treated fibers.

The irradiation device may comprise a collimation device of the light beam and thus use a less powerful laser for an irradiation energy identical, but nevertheless sufficient to achieve the desired treatment of the hair. The collimation device is for example adjustable in order to adjust the fluence of the light reaching the keratinous fibers. This adjustment is for example made manually or automatically, for example depending on the color of the keratin fibers to be treated or as a function of a deformation degree set or stored. The collimation device may comprise several lenses, convergent and / or divergent. The irradiation device can be used near the hair or implements a light transport. Different optical elements may be used for the transport of light, such as a collimation optics, one or more optical mirrors and / or deflectors and / or an optical conduit such as one or more optical fibers. An optical deflector can be used to orient the path of the light rays according to addressing data. The optical deflector is for example controlled by the computing unit to bring the light beam onto the portion of the keratinous fibers to be treated. The irradiation device may also be equipped with means for confining or absorbing light, for trapping the light and preventing it from diffusing out of a treatment zone.

The optical output can be any shape, be unique or multiple. The irradiation device comprises for example a circular optical output or which is in the form of one or more slots, which can have various profiles. Treated fibers Different types of keratin fibers can be treated. Preferably, the invention applies to the hair. A keratinous fiber F may be treated at one or more locations Z of its length, as illustrated in FIGS. 2 and 3. FIG. 2 shows a hair F which is treated on two spaced-apart fronts one of the other, located between the base of the fiber attached to the scalp C and its free end. FIG. 3 illustrates the treatment of a distal portion of the hair F.

The point of impact of the light pulses on the fiber (s) to be treated may, for example, describe a predefined trajectory on the surface of the treated fiber (s), for example a helix as illustrated in FIG. 4. Shaping the one or more keratin fibers prior to irradiation Light allows proteins to reorganize. The processing time is very fast, we can gradually approach a desired result by successive operations each corresponding to a small deformation, the final result, obtained by small keys, thus being very accurate.

The treatment does not unduly reduce the keratin fibers, another advantage is that one can proceed to the realization of a shape and then to the realization of another form and even proceed to the realization of a form then the remove by reverse shaping. According to the invention, a shape is imposed on the hair or a wick of keratin fibers or at least a portion of keratin fiber, prior to irradiation. This shaping of keratinous fibers is for example carried out in a conventional manner by styling the hair, for example by blow-drying, setting in fold, permanent, straightening. The shaping can still be performed with a device for applying a stress to the hair, which can be secured to the irradiation device. It is possible to apply a simple curvature to a place of the hair or to impose several forms on the same hair in several places of it. Different shaping can also be performed successively on 25 of the same portions of hair. The fibers can be given various shapes before being treated, for example waving, smoothing, curling, deforming their base, their point, folding them in one or more places of their length, and twisting them. The shaping of the keratin fiber or fibers prior to the irradiation is intended, for example, to give the fiber a curvature less than or equal to that of the starting fiber. Thus, a stiff fiber (with a radius of curvature of 20 cm or more) can be shaped on rollers 0.25 to 3 cm radius, to give it a radius of curvature close to the value of the radius of curvature roll or more. Precise shapes may be imposed on the hair prior to irradiation, such as one or more notches, one or more rounds, a spiral, a helix, a broken line shape, a corrugated shape, a looped shape, a stepped shape, a polygon shape, in particular a triangle, in order to provide varied aesthetic effects. If necessary, a stress and an irradiation can be applied to one or more keratinous fibers in order to effect shaping contrary to shaping previously obtained by a device for applying the stress, for example using jaws. having a different shape, for example inverse, coming to grip the fibers. Chemicals used for a perm can be used in addition to the stress application device, to maintain the shape before irradiation, for example, the dosages of active chemicals are decreased.

Although not necessary for the efficacy of the treatment according to the invention, it is possible to use, in addition to the irradiation treatment, active chemical compounds such as those used for the chemical shaping transformation, for example thioglycolic acid, cysteine, thioglycolic acid esters, sulphites, alkalis such as sodium hydroxide, lithium hydroxide, guanidine salts or potassium hydroxide.

As already indicated, the processing can take place at one fiber location or at multiple locations on each fiber. The spacing between two locations treated on a fiber may be very small, for example less than or equal to 1 mm or greater, for example greater than or equal to 1 mm, typically 1 cm .... A fiber may comprise one or more treated sections . For example, sections of 2 mm are mechanically stressed, for example to give them a salient or retreating angle, and then irradiated, these sections being separated for example by 2 cm from each other, the sections being for example treated successively, during the moving the handpiece along the fiber. The spacing between the treated areas on a fiber may be constant or random. Successive deformations can be carried out in different planes. For example, successive treatments are carried out each conferring a remanent deformation at an angle in a plane, and the planes of the various deformations made turn around the axis of the fiber, which can induce helical deformation. The orientation of the deformation plane can be performed by the user or the processing system automatically.

In these particular cases, the treatment can be performed at the hair root only or on hair above the neck, usually too small to be treated by conventional methods. Processing systems The processing system 10 may comprise, as illustrated in FIG. 5, a computing unit 60, comprising, for example, one or more microcontrollers or microprocessors and more generally any computer means capable of executing a program in order to manage the operation. different components of the treatment system. The computing unit 60 includes or is associated with a memory 61 which stores, for example, operating parameters of the processing system and may contain a program executed by the computing unit 60 to ensure the operation of the processing system. The memory 61 can be of any type. The computing unit 60 can control the operation of a light generator 70 of an irradiation device 20, for example a laser, via any suitable interface. The calculation unit 60 can for example control the nature of the pulses emitted as well as the triggering or not of these pulses. Where appropriate, the computing unit 60 may also control one or more actuators 71 of the irradiation device 20, for example to act on the emitted light, for example its orientation or degree of collimation.

The computing unit 60 can exchange information with a user interface 62, for example comprising a keyboard or a screen, and possibly with a network interface 64 making it possible to communicate with a server in order, for example, to update software that manages the operation of the processing system. In a nonlimiting manner, the processing system 10 comprises, for example, a communication port, via a wired connection or not, with for example an Internet access gateway, such as an Ethernet port. The port can also be a communication port with a personal computer device, such as a universal serial bus (USB) port or another type of communication port. The computing unit 60 can also receive information from one or more sensors 50, which may belong to the irradiation device 20 and / or to a device for applying the constraint, for example to inform the unit of the device. calculation 60 on the displacement of the treated fibers relative to an optical output of the irradiation device. The computing unit 60 can handle a number of functions related to the safe use of the processing system. The calculation unit 60 can still control the operation of at least one actuator 55 intended to apply a stress on the fibers to be treated. The computing unit 60 can still receive data from one or more cameras or other optical detector, these data for example to inform the treatment system on the nature and / or the shape of the hair to be treated. The use of the treatment system may comprise a step of applying a stress on at least a portion of the keratinous fibers arranged in a form imposed by the treatment system, followed by a step of irradiating the keratinous fibers, and shaped by the irradiation device, which produces a light beam of sufficient energy to modify internal bonds keratin fibers which can then be fixed in the imposed form.

The device for applying a stress on the treated fiber or fibers comprises, for example, as illustrated in FIG. 6, a clamp arranged to apply pressure to a wick of keratinous fibers. The treatment system is also arranged such that the portion thus stressed is irradiated. Advantageously, the treatment system comprises a handpiece. Thus, its use is facilitated, for example in a hairdressing salon or at a private home, and allows many manipulations. The treatment system 10 shown in FIG. 6 comprises two jaws 102 and 103 that can be clamped against one another to impose a shape on at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber F. The jaw 102 is for example immobile relative to the irradiation device 20, the latter opening for example by an optical output, not shown in Figure 6, in the jaw 102.

The jaw 103, which can be movable relative to the jaw 102, can tighten the fiber or fibers F present in the treatment zone 109 defined between the jaws 102 and 103. The jaws 102 and 103 are for example manually operated. In this case, the jaws 102 and 103 can be carried by two branches, for example hinged together, not shown. Alternatively, the jaws 102 and 103 are moved by an actuator. Depending on the shape given to the facing surfaces 102a and 103a of the jaws, different shapes may be imposed on the keratinous fiber or fibers during the irradiation. In the example illustrated in FIG. 6, the facing surfaces of the jaws 102 and 103 are respectively concave and convex, so as to impose a curvature on the keratinous fiber (s) F. In general, the surfaces of the jaws intended for come into contact with the fiber (s) F to be irradiated may have various shapes, for example flat, rounded, twisted or each forming a complementary angle. The clamping between the two jaws 102 and 103 imposes a shape on each keratin fiber, for example a fold, a rounded, a curvature or a propeller or keeps them straight. The jaws 102 and 103 may be made of a rigid material or having elastic properties or in a composite material, for example plastic, metal, wood, leather, silicone or rubber or other materials commonly used in cosmetic. For example, the jaws have a male and a female form respectively. At least one of the two jaws can be deformed by bearing against the opposite jaw, if any. The jaws for imposing a shape may also be two plates which are brought closer to one another so as to smooth a lock of hair. At least one of the jaws may be made of a material transparent to light, reflecting light or opaque. One of the bits can shield the light to prevent it from leaving the treatment area. At least one of the jaws may be interchangeable, for example to replace it with a jaw having a different shape.

The clamping force of the two jaws 102 and 103 can be detected by a pressure sensor in order to trigger automatically, from the crossing of a threshold, the irradiation of the portion under stress. The surface or surfaces of the stress application device, coming into contact with the one or more keratinous fibers to impose a shape on them before the irradiation can be heated, if necessary, for example at a temperature of between 80.degree. 200 ° C. For this purpose, at least one of the jaws of the device described above can be heated. In general, the treatment system can be implemented in a modular manner. The system comprises, for example, a basic module to which additional modules are added for particular applications. These auxiliary modules can be mechanical modules physically linked to the module of the base or software modules contained in a memory. Different ancillary modules serve, for example, to give various forms to the hair, for example to extend them or to make curvatures in the form of waves. An add-on module can also be added to perform a processing complementary to the formatting process. A liquid product distributor and / or an associated heating device are for example included in such a complementary mechanical module. The treatment system can be used on dry hair or wet hair.

The treatment system may also include an adhesive member such as a patch or tape, to hold the hair or distribute the light. The adhesive member may be deformed manually for the application of a stress, if any. The device for applying the stress may itself pass the light pulses to the portion of the keratin fibers to be irradiated. The device for applying the stress to the keratin fiber or fibers to be shaped may comprise at least one roller around which the hair is wound before being irradiated. The roller may for example be attached to the hair in the manner of a hair curler or integrated into the treatment system. Figure 7 shows another example of a processing system 10.

In this example, the treatment zone 109 is defined between an optical output 110 of the irradiation device 20 and a guide surface 111 situated at a distance from the optical output 110. The guide surface 111 is defined for example by a finger 104 or any other part of the treatment system 10. The guiding surface 111 may be smooth or provided with one or more reliefs for guiding and / or combing the hair, for example ribs or teeth. The guiding surface 111 serves, for example, to impose a predefined shape on the keratinous fibers F on contact with it, before irradiation by the irradiation device 20. In order to press the fibers F against the guiding surface 111, for example a traction on the fibers F according to the arrow T of FIG. 7, the fibers F being retained by the scalp C. This traction can be exerted manually or with the aid of an object hooked to the hair. The thickness of the treatment zone 109 defined between the optical output 110 and the guide surface 111 is, for example, from 0.5 to 5 mm, this thickness being able to be fixed or adjustable. The guide surface 111 is for example opaque to light, for example being reflective, for example to return the light to the fibers to be treated. The guiding surface 111 can be given various shapes depending on the one that is to be remanently imparted to the keratinous fibers. The plating of the keratinous fiber or fibers on the guiding surface 111 can also result from the friction of the fiber or fibers in contact with the guiding surface 111, thanks to a microrelief on them or to the use of a material with a high coefficient of friction and / or the rotation of the guiding surface on itself. Alternatively, the guide surface 111 may be smooth and slippery to not catch the hair. Where appropriate, the portion 104 of the processing system 10 which defines the guide surface 111 may conduct the light and also define an optical output, or even define the single optical output of the processing system. The portion 104 of the treatment system that defines the guide surface 111 may be solid or hollow. Its embodiment as a hollow part may for example be used to circulate a gas or a coolant or allow to insert an optical component or a sensor.

Where appropriate, the guide surface 111 may be defined by a rotary member such as a roller, which may make it possible at one and the same time to impose a shape on the keratinous fibers and to control the movement of the treatment system relative to the keratinous fibers. , for example to allow the sending of the light pulses at predefined intervals along the treated fiber or fibers. The application of a stress to the keratinous fibers before the irradiation can also be caused by the expansion of an elastically deformable member, for example an elastically deformable member which is compressed to reduce its volume, inserted into the treatment zone then released. Its expansion in the treatment zone exerts a stress on the keratinous fiber (s) and may, for example, press them against an optical output and / or against a guide surface. The processing system may comprise, in an exemplary embodiment, a first hollow guide surface and an expandable member disposed within this guide surface. The latter can for example be defined by at least two movable parts relative to each other, for example articulated together, in order to be able to separate these parts by releasing the expandable member after irradiation. During processing, the fiber (s) is (are) sandwiched between the guide surface and the expandable member. The optical output may lead to one and / or the other or be independent of the guide surface and the expandable member.

FIG. 8 shows very schematically an example of a treatment system 10 configured to apply a composition contained in a reservoir 2011 to the keratinous fibers F. In general, the application can for example take place before the irradiation, the composition being for example applied to the fibers by means of at least one applicator pad 2012 or any other means of application, for example a block of porous material, fed with the composition contained in the tank 2011. The optical outlet opens with example in a treatment zone 109 of the treatment system 10 located downstream of the application means 2012, relative to the direction of movement of the fibers F, so that the fibers are coated with composition before being irradiated.

The composition contained in the reservoir 2011 aims for example to promote the transmission of light to the fibers, by coating the fibers with a medium of refractive index higher than air, and / or to promote their implementation shaped into a desired shape. Of course, the application of a composition to the hair prior to irradiation or alternatively thereafter may be done by various other suitable means, for example by spraying. If necessary, after the application of the composition, the fibers may undergo heating and / or irradiation in order, for example, to accelerate the drying of the composition or to force the transformation or the modification thereof. The feed of the means of application 2012 can be effected by various means, for example by capillarity, gravity or with the aid of a mechanical means such as a pump, which can be controlled if necessary by the computing unit 60 of the treatment system 10. In this case in particular, the application of the composition is, for example, markedly located on the keratinous fiber or fibers to be treated, for example at the locations intended to be irradiated. The composition applied to the fibers may also be intended to complete the treatment by giving a color to the fibers, this color being for example made over the entire length of the fibers, while the shaping treatment remains localized only in certain places of the fiber. fiber. The orientation of the incident light on the treated fiber (s) may be imposed by the processing system or may alternatively depend on the orientation of the optical output given by the user to the treatment system. The orientation of the light can be controlled by the treatment unit according to, for example, the way in which the shaping of the hair took place before the irradiation, for example according to the nature of the tool which is used for give hair their shape before irradiation. If necessary, as illustrated in FIG. 9, the irradiation can be carried out from a treatment system 10 comprising a helmet under which a person can be placed, this helmet being provided with one or more optical fibers. 302 connecting a light generator to one or more optical outputs, which can be directed manually or automatically to the hair to be treated. An opaque screen 201 may be placed behind the hair relative to the optical output (s) to prevent lost light from reaching the user's clothing or skin.

The shaping of the hair, before irradiation, of the person placed under the treatment system 10 may for example have been done by styling. Where appropriate, the optical output (s) may be movable relative to the helmet or the latter may be movable relative to the person treated, so as to promote the irradiation of the largest number of hair to be fixed in their shape. Where appropriate, the orientation of the optical outputs is controlled by the computing unit of the processing system according to an image analysis, for example by means of one or more cameras, placed for example under the helmet. In general, the hair can be irradiated at different angles on their inner or outer side. Different portions of the fiber respectively corresponding to different applied stresses can be irradiated differently. An order of choice of the irradiated portion and / or orientation of the irradiation can be used to adapt or modulate the shaping. The irradiation directions are, for example, entered via a man / machine interface and stored in the form of parameterization data. Similarly, characteristics of production of light rays by the irradiation device can also be set and stored as parameter data. For example, a stored data library allows automatic loading of parameters according to an input command depending on the desired result. The user can also enter a stored setpoint, which determines different operating parameters. A hair displacement sensor with respect to the treatment system can be used to trigger, at predetermined intervals, for example regular, stressing and / or irradiation. The treatment system can for example trigger a stressing followed by irradiation, then immediately after control, release of the stress. Due to the particularly fast irradiation, it is possible to use the apparatus by moving it rapidly. Regular irradiation of several portions of a lock of hair can be achieved when moving the device on the wick.

The treatment system may comprise a displacement sensor comprising for example at least one roller in contact with the lock of hair, and rotating according to a relative movement of the lock relative to the treatment system. Alternatively, the sensor comprises two free rotating rollers that clamp the lock of hair. The execution of a program by the calculation unit makes it possible, for example, to trigger the irradiation and / or to trigger a clamping action of the hair controlled by an actuator, in a synchronized and clocked manner. User Interface The processing system may include a user interface for adjusting various operating parameters, such as constraints to be applied and / or irradiation to be performed. The interface comprises for example a display screen controlled by the calculation unit. The screen may display control information and / or provide parameter setting menus. A menu can for example propose to adjust the physical characteristics of the light source, such as the peak power, the frequency, the orientation of the irradiation and / or the interval between two portions treated. Parameters relating to the formatting, such as the constraint pressure and / or the orientation of the stress can also be adjusted, if necessary. A menu may also provide selectable options such as hair type or hair color or the desired shape for the hair, these selectable options corresponding for example to pre-stored program settings executable by the system calculation unit. treatment. In a nonlimiting manner, new selectable options can be created according to adjustments made by the user, making it possible to propose changing menus. The modes or operating options proposed are for example illustrated on the screen by diagrams or photos, animations or simulations, corresponding to the type of operation proposed.

A camera may allow, for example, the acquisition of an image subsequently processed by the processing unit to generate viewable data for previewing a formatting process. The interface may include adjustable buttons or sliders.

The interface can be made on the handpiece and / or on a base station connected to the handpiece. The adjustment can be achieved, for example, by selecting preset parameters or can be achieved by moving a cursor to positions indicating for example light hair or dark hair. The settings are for example read in memory by the processing unit before the application of a stress or before irradiation, so as to set a possible actuator for applying a constraint or adjustment of the irradiation device. . Settings may be stored in the stress enforcement device, and read automatically by the irradiation device, so as to apply these settings to eg produce a command. A storage of data contained in the stress enforcement device may be useful when the same irradiation device is used with a plurality of different stress enforcement devices due to a modular construction of the radiation treatment system. example. The treatment system may comprise a button for controlling the triggering of the irradiation, for example in the form of a push button. If necessary, the irradiation device may be suitable, depending on the settings, for different applications, for example shaping and / or discoloration. The user interface may be used to select another irradiation function 25 to achieve for example a bleaching of keratinous fibers or a cauterization or a cut, the various functions being used alone or in combination. In a nonlimiting manner, it is possible to provide simultaneously with a step of freezing the shape of the hair, a step of bleaching the hair. Other treatments such as permanent, straightening or staining treatments can be performed during the practice of the invention. Irradiation can create a transformation of the fiber, tending to freeze its shape, but can also discolor it.

An adjustment can be made so that the shaping is more or less accentuated. For example, the frequency, the number of shots, the duration of exposure or other parameters can be adjusted so that after irradiation the fiber retains a desired shape, intermediate between that which was given to it just before the irradiation and its initial form before application of the constraint. Examples of Methods In one example, as illustrated in FIG. 10, the method according to the invention may comprise an EtpO1 step for adjusting the irradiation, for example by means of one or more sliders.

The user then positions EtpO2 a lock of hair in front of the optical output (s) of the treatment system. The user can then perform an EtpO3 step of applying the constraint. The constraint can be achieved by the user who can for example hold the lock of hair with a comb on the one hand and stretch the hair against a guide passage to make it take a desired shape. The stress can be further achieved by clamping between jaws or otherwise, for example using a least one actuator controlled by the treatment system. After the stressing, which can be very fast, the irradiation is for example triggered manually, for example by a support by the user on a push button. The irradiation is carried out for example according to previously made adjustments. At the end of the irradiation, an end-of-irradiation light or sound warning signal can be emitted at step Etp 05. The user can then, for example, treat another portion of the lock of hair and repeat the steps Etp2 to EtpS. For example, a handpiece of the treatment system is moved along a lock of hair passing through the treatment zone. Thus, the user can treat several areas on the same lock of hair. The user can also treat another lock of hair. The treatment system can also be semi-automatic, so that after the stressing, the irradiation can be triggered automatically, optionally followed by an automatic release of the constraint by a controlled actuator.

The treatment system may comprise an irradiation device controlled by a pressure applied manually by the user, the irradiation being triggered automatically above a determined pressure or the irradiation being adjusted according to a measured pressure, according to a determined program for triggering or adjusting the irradiation. The irradiation adjustment program is for example chosen according to a user entered instruction, to approach a given result according to the pressure applied by the user. Advantageously, the shape modification can be modulated by acting on the irradiation and / or the stress or more generally on the irradiation and on the applied stress. Verification programs can also be run in parallel to check a set of safety parameters, for example from sensors or an electrical magnitude analysis during the operation of the treatment system, in order to keratin fibers, to modify settings or to stop irradiation or stressing. An optimization program can also be performed before formatting and irradiation in order to verify the effectiveness of the treatment and in case of inefficiency detected, modify settings in order to get closer to the desired result. Another example of a method will be described with reference to FIG. 11. In general, pre-program settings can be made as in step EtplO, and relate for example to: optical changes, and / or - changes in focus, and / or - changes in wavelengths, and / or - pulse durations, and / or - shot energies, and / or - a shot frequency, and / or optical filters, and / or other settings. A step Etp1 of positioning the keratinous fibers can then take place. This positioning is for example detected using a displacement sensor. When the computing unit determines that the fiber or fibers are correctly positioned, the treatment system can move to a step Etp12 of applying a stress on the keratinous fibers. For example, the processing unit transmits an activation signal to an actuator. An associated pressure sensor can determine when the stress is applied.

During an irradiation step Etp13, the irradiation device emits at least one light pulse, according to the predefined setting. Then, the relaxation of the keratinous fibers can take place in the Etp stage 14. A stage Etp 15 end of shaping cycle test can then be performed. This end of cycle test comprises for example the control of the position of a trigger button, activated or not by the user, and / or an analysis of the signal delivered by the displacement sensor. When this sensor is immobile for a fixed period of time, the program may consider that the lock of hair is no longer in the device. If the cycle of formatting is not completed, for example the program executes a jump to step Etp 11. Tests Several montages are made, such as that represented in FIG. 12, with each two European hair Fa and Fb chestnut, steep, 10 cm long, intertwined one inside the other.

The hair Fa forms a loop down and supports the hair Fb which forms a loop upwards. Each hair is held at its ends and a predefined tension is applied, tending to spread the hair. A first assembly serves as a control and is not subjected to any treatment. A second assembly is subjected to a chemical treatment with conventional permanent liquids, for example of the brand Dulcia Vital, comprising a reducer and a fixer, each applied for 5 minutes. Four other montages are subjected to laser irradiation. A laser from Amplitude System, of the S-Pulse brand, was used, delivering pulses of approximately 500 fs wavelength 1030 nm. The maximum energy per shot is about 1 mJ and the firing frequency is about 10 kHz. The laser is equipped with a frequency doubler so that the light reaching the hair has a wavelength of 515 nm.

Moving mirrors are arranged between the hair and the laser output, to position the laser beam. Collimating optics are used to widen the beam to a diameter of about 300 m. The energy per shot is estimated at 0.5 mJ and the energy per mm2 is 5 mJ.

The peak power is about 10 GW for the beam and given the concentration of the beam, 1 GW / mm2 power delivered on the fiber. The hair is released immediately after the laser treatment. For each of the assemblies, the hair is separated after treatment and then washing with water and with a shampoo is repeated according to ten washing and rinsing cycles, and drying takes place for a few minutes, the hair being each held by one end . After drying, the angle formed at the intersection between the hair of the assembly is evaluated. The results are as follows: Control No residual deformation Tee Chemical treatment No residual deformation Irradiation treatment Residual deformation For irradiated assemblies, the following residual permanent deformation of the longitudinal axis of the fiber is observed, according to the irradiation carried out. Frequency shots Number of shots Treatment duration Residual deformation 1000 Hz 10 0.01 s 100 100 Hz 100 1 s 30 ° 1000 Hz 100 0.1 s 150 ° 100 Hz 1000 l0 s 90 ° The last three treatments cause the appearance of a discoloration at the site of irradiation by laser beams. It can be seen that very large remanent deformations can be achieved in less than one second and that the angle of remanent deformation can be modulated by varying the conditions of the treatment. The shape given to a keratinous fiber may be varied by playing only on a very small portion thereof, for example less than 1 mm in length, for example 300 m in length. Other treatments Other treatments may be carried out simultaneously with the treatment intended to confer a residual deformation, for example a chemical coloration, a chemical discoloration, a complementary chemical shaping treatment, a straightening, a hair care, a hair wash and / or a care of the scalp. At least one other treatment as defined above can also be carried out before or after the process according to the invention. The irradiation to which the keratinous fibers are subjected may be completed by ultrasonic treatment, by IR or microwave heating or by other light irradiations, pulsed or otherwise, by reduction or increase of the surface tension or by abrasion of the surface. The shaping before the light irradiation and / or the light irradiation can be carried out hot, for example at a temperature between 80 ° C and 220 ° C.

The treatment system may also dispense on the keratinous fiber or fibers during the implementation of the method according to the invention, at least one gas or spray, for example water vapor, cold air, water, air with a certain humidity, water or at least one solvent or other fluid. The treatment system can be arranged to bleach the fibers over a certain length, for example their entire length, and induce a remanent deformation over a shorter distance. Treatment other than that intended to impart residual deformation may take place at the same location as that affected by the remnant deformation or elsewhere. The other treatment may for example aim at coloring the fibers or discoloring the fibers over their entire length, while the treatment according to the invention confers residual deformation only at certain localized locations.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been described. The expression containing one must be understood as being synonymous with at least one, unless the opposite is specified.5

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. Process for treating keratin fibers, CLAIMS1. A process for treating keratinous fibers, comprising the steps of shaping at least one portion of at least one keratinous fiber (F), exposing said portion to at least one light pulse (R) tending to permanent deformation to the fiber, in particular a remanent form corresponding to that in which it was brought. 2. The method of claim 1, the shaping being performed at least 10 by applying a stress of sagging or straightening on the fiber. 3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, the shaping being performed at least by applying a torsional stress on the fiber. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the shaping being performed at least by applying a tensile stress on the fiber. 15 5. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, the shaping being carried out at least by applying a stress on the fiber, this stress being exerted by a device for applying a stress coming into contact with the fiber. (F). 6. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 5, the stress being exerted at least by a treatment comprising the wetting of the fiber. 7. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 6, the stress being exerted at least by a composition applied to the surface of the fiber (F), in particular a composition inducing a stress on the fiber during its drying. The method of any one of claims 1 to 7, wherein a variable mechanical stress is applied to the fiber as a function of the position along the fiber (F). A method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, wherein variable irradiation is exerted on the fiber as a function of the position along the fiber. 30 10. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, several sections (Z) of the fiber separated from each other being treated. 1. consisting of: (a) (b) confer a 11. The method as claimed in claim 1, wherein steps a) and b) are applied successively at least twice on the same portion of fiber. 12. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the light pulse or pulses satisfying at least one of the following conditions, better or substantially all of them: a pulse duration of 10- 16 s at 10-15, better 10-15 sec at 10 sec, a wavelength of 400 nm at 2000 nm, a surface energy of 0.1 × 10 3 J / mm 2 at 50 × 10 -3 J / mm ', - a peak power of 1.106 W at 1000.109 W 13. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, said portion being subjected to a plurality of pulses, in particular between 1 and 10,000 pulses, better 5 to 10,000 pulses, preferably with a pulse frequency ranging from 10 Hz to 105 Hz. , better 100 Hz to 105 Hz. 14. System for treating at least a portion of at least one keratinous fiber, comprising: a device for applying a stress in deflection, straightening, torsion, compression and / or traction, to at least one portion of the fiber, - an irradiation device for exposing at least a portion of the fiber 20 thus constrained to a light pulse tending to impart to the fiber a remanent deformation, in particular a deformation corresponding to that imparted by the device of application of the constraint. 15. The system of claim 14, wherein the stress applicator and an optical output of the irradiation device are integrated into the same handpiece.