FR2931637A1 - Cosmetic treatment e.g. coloring, method for human hair, involves abrading hair using abrasion unit including abrasive and non-abrasive surfaces, and applying cosmetic treatment product on hair before, after and/or during abrasion of hair - Google Patents

Abstract

The method involves abrading hair (C) using an abrasion unit, where the unit includes two opposite surfaces such as abrasive surface (5) and non-abrasive surface (6), in contact with hair during the abrasion. Cosmetic treatment product is applied on the hair before, after and/or during the abrasion of hair. Abrasive particles (8) are applied on the hair for the abrasion of hair, where the particles have hardness greater than or equal to 5 on Mohs scale. The abrasion unit is configured to project a jet of abrasive particles on the hair to realize the abrasion of the hair. An independent claim is also included for a hair treatment kit comprising an abrasion unit.

Description

The present invention relates to the treatment of human hair. The hair can be altered by chemical treatments such as coloring, permanent, or by mechanical stresses such as detangling, blow drying. The mechanical, morphological and physicochemical properties of the surface of the hair, and in particular of the cuticle, external layer of the hair with a scale structure, are modified. In particular, during these treatments or solicitations, the scales of the cuticle rise and see their edges, normally regular, become serrated. These deteriorations can have several consequences. On one hand, the hair is less smooth and less easily disentangled. On the other hand, the assets of a hair treatment product, for example a conditioner, may be deposited heterogeneously on the hair. However, it may be desirable to deposit the care assets homogeneously on all the hair. It is known to treat damaged hair by applying thereto a care product comprising, for example, specific polymers such as silicones or cationically charged polymers. However, the improvement of the hair so treated is only temporary because once rid of the care product, for example after one or more washings, the hair back to its original state. EP 1 283 019 discloses an article such as a textured wipe with raised elements comprising, for example, rubber or a polyolefin. The article is used for example to exfoliate the skin. EP 1 577 161 describes a rigid comb having teeth whose ends are textured to give them a certain roughness, so as to hook and remove nits present in the hair. There is a need to benefit from methods and kits for sustainably treating hair, especially those damaged on the surface. One of the aims of the invention is to meet this need and it achieves this through a cosmetic hair treatment process comprising the following steps: - abrading hair, using an abrasion means making it possible to abrade hair, and 30 - apply a cosmetic treatment product on the hair before, after and / or during the abrasion of the hair.

The steps of the method according to the invention can be implemented during the same session, for example within one hour. When the cosmetic treatment product is applied to the hair before abrasion thereof, the product is still present when the hair is abraded. When applying the product after hair abrasion, this application takes place just after the abrasion, during the same session, for example within one hour or less.

Hair Abrasion The invention can be used to smooth the surface of the hair defined by the cuticle. The abrasion of the hair that is operated by implementing the invention may be more or less important, depending on the initial state of the hair and / or the desired result. To modulate the degree of abrasion of the hair, it is possible for example to vary the duration of hair abrasion. The abrasion can be relatively soft and / or of short duration, so as to avoid breakage of the hair, during treatment or subsequent mechanical stresses such as styling, for example. Thanks to the invention, the hair can be visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is durable. The hair can be cleared of deposits that may be present on the surface before abrasion and the edges of the cuticle scales can be made more even. In addition, after the treatment, products intended to strengthen certain properties of the hair or to change their appearance can penetrate more easily and deeply in the hair abraded.

Abrasive particles The abrasion of the hair can be carried out by applying abrasive particles to the hair, according to various means described hereinafter. The abrasive particles may be chosen from the following, this list not being limiting: inorganic and / or metallic particles such as boron nitride, especially in cubic form (Borazon), aluminosilicate, zircon, oxides mixed aluminum such as emery, zinc oxide, aluminum oxides such as alumina, corundum, titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide, carbides, especially silicon carbide (carborundum), or other metal oxides, metals and metal alloys such as iron shot, steel, especially perlite; silicates such as glass, quartz or sand, calcium carbonate (for example, bora bora sand or Brignoles rose) or magnesium carbonate, pumice, amorphous silica, diamond, ceramics organic particles such as fruit cores, especially apricot kernels, for example Apricot Scrubami, wood cellulose, for example ground bamboo stem, coconut shell, for example Coconut exfoliator; polyamide, especially nylon-6, and mixed particles combining organic and inorganic compounds, and the particles coated with the above compounds. The abrasive particles may or may not be soluble in water. The abrasive particles may have an average dimension of between 10 nm and 800 μm, better still between 50 nm and 500 μm. By dimension in the sense of the present invention is meant the largest dimension of the particle. For average dimension in the sense of the present invention, the dimension given by the statistical size distribution to half of the population, called D50. Depending on the range of particles used, it can be determined using sieves or laser particle size. The abrasive particles may be of vegetable or synthetic origin and have a flattened, spherical, elongated, polyhedral or irregular shape. The abrasive particles can come for example from grains of pumice powder, diamond powder, fruit stone powder, coconut shell powder, microbeads, for example microspheres of alumina, glass, polyamide, especially Nylon-6, or fibers, especially polyamide fibers, hardwood cellulose fibers. The abrasive particles may not have ceramic. The hardness of the abrasive particles may be greater than or equal to 3, more preferably 4, in particular 5, on the Mohs scale.

The following is a non-limiting table showing different types of abrasive particles that can be used: Name Size Hardness Appearance Form Zinc oxide 10-30 nm 5 Irregular pale yellow powder Nylon-6 powder 50-200 pm 6 spherical white powder Lengthened fibrous polyamide fibers 0.3 mm 5 Glass microbeads 2-20 μm 6 spherical gray powder Aluminum oxide 125 μm 9 irregular white powder Aluminum oxide 100 μm 9 irregular white powder Aluminum oxide 200 μm 9 irregular white powder Micro alumina balls 8 pm 9 spherical white powder Perlite 150 pm 5.5 spherical white powder Diamond powder 0-3 pm 10 spherical gray powder Diamond powder 30-50 pm 10 spherical gray powder Pumice powder 260-287 pm 6 irregular gray powder Pumice powder 250 pm 6 irregular gray powder Pumice powder 0-125 pm 6 irregular gray powder Pumice powder 0-75 pm 6 irregular gray powder Sand bora bora CaCO3 -4 spherical gray powder amorphous silica 16 pm 7 spherical white powder Brignoles pink CaCO3 700-800 pm 4 spherical pink powder Rod crushed bamboo -7 spherical white powder Micro alumina balls 8 pm 9 spherical white powder Micro nylon-6 balls 8 pm 9 spherical white powder Abrasive surface (s) The abrasion means may comprise, for example, at least two facing surfaces, at least one of which is abrasive, the facing surfaces being in contact with each other. contact with the hair during abrasion and at least one of the facing surfaces acting on the hair by abrasion. The roughness of the or each abrasive surface corresponds, for example, to that of an abrasive surface whose particle size ranges from P12 to P2500, the roughness being defined by the standards ISO 6344-1, ISO 6344-2 and ISO 6344-3. . The abrasive surface or surfaces can comprise abrasive particles fixed on a support. In this case, the abrasive particles may for example comprise a first material and be fixed on a support formed at least partially by a second material different from the first material, at least in the part of the support in contact with the abrasive particles. The abrasive particles may be fixed by various means on the support, for example being bonded to the support or being dispersed in the support in the form of a load. The fixing of the abrasive particles on the support may be such that the abrasive particles do not detach from the support during processing. Several abrasive surfaces with different abrasion characteristics can be proposed together to the user, especially in the same package. When they comprise abrasive particles, this may allow it for example to perform a first treatment with relatively large particles and then a second treatment with finer particles. All facing surfaces can be abrasive. This can reduce the treatment time and / or treat the hair more evenly. Alternatively, a single surface may be abrasive, the other surface (s) being non-abrasive.

The surface or each non-abrasive surface, also referred to as a counter-surface, can be used to apply the treatment product to the hair, which product can be a liquid, a gel, a cream or a powder, for example. The counter-surface may for example comprise a flocking, a foam or an elastomer, among others, and be impregnated or not treatment product. The counter-surface may also have a surface condition promoting the sliding of the hair on contact, for example being made of a coating of a low friction material, for example PTFE, or be defined by a wall of a thermoplastic material comprising a charge of particles promoting sliding, for example graphite particles.

The counter surface can be impregnated with product before the abrasion treatment. The counter-surface may still be supplied with product continuously or discontinuously during the treatment, the counter-surface communicating for example with a reservoir containing the treatment product. At least one hair, most or all of the treated hair may come into contact with the abrasive surface over a length of at least 5 mm and preferably at least 10 mm.

The or each abrasive surface may be flat or not, when it comes into contact with the hair. The facing surfaces mentioned above may be the only facing surfaces coming into contact with the hair at each implementation of the method. The facing surfaces may be two in number, being or not parallel to each other. The surfaces coming into contact with the hair may or may not be moved relative to one another during the abrasion treatment. All surfaces can be moved. The relative movement between the facing surfaces and the hair can be generated by the person to which the hair belongs or by a third party, for example a hairdresser. The relative movement can be generated manually or at least partially motorized, using a mechanized system. Hair can be treated from root to tip or otherwise. Support The facing surface or surfaces define the face or faces of a support. The support may be flexible and for example comprises or consists of a woven, a nonwoven, a paper or a flexible polymer. The support may be in the form of a sheet, having two opposite major faces. Only one of the faces may have abrasive properties. Alternatively, the other side may also be abrasive. The abrasive properties of the two faces may then be identical or different. The facing surfaces may belong to two separate supports or, alternatively, to the same support that is folded to obtain at least two surfaces. The support may or may not deform during processing. A flexible support may allow to deform during processing, for example in the hand, such a deformation may be useful for example to drive it in motion or handle it more easily and / or better control the applied force. The flexibility of the support can still be useful to conform to the shape of the wick to be treated. The abrasive surface (s) may, alternatively, belong to a support which is hard, having for example a modulus of elasticity greater than or equal to 1GPa, preferably greater than or equal to 4GPa.

The support may comprise, for example, a metal, a ceramic, a mineral glass or a thermoplastic material, in particular a polyolefin, for example high-density polyethylene. The support may comprise several parts, a first part having abrasive properties and a second part on which is fixed the first part, removably or not. The support may be arranged to facilitate gripping by the user, for example in the form of a glove, a thermowell, or made with a handle or a fastener.

The support may be heating and / or vibrating. The support may for example make it possible to wear the surface of the hair at a temperature greater than or equal to 40 ° C. The support may be porous or not. Each support can be single-use or suitable for several uses. The supports can be individually packaged or not, and can be detachable or not from each other. The support can be conditioned by being impregnated with the treatment product, in the dry or wet state. The hard support may comprise a structure arranged to impart abrasive properties to the abrasive surface, in particular may comprise a sintered material. The abrasive surface may include asperities, for example pimples, notches or scratches. Mechanized System When there is one or more abrasive surfaces set in motion by a mechanized system, it may be arranged to vibrate the abrasive surface or move it in a single direction.

The vibrations of the abrasive surface may have an amplitude of less than or equal to 20 mm, better still less than or equal to 10 mm, even more preferably less than or equal to 5 min. The vibrations of the abrasive surface can have a frequency of between 1 and 10 000 Hz, that is to say a return trip per second and 10 000 trips and returns per second, better between 2 and 1000 Hz, better still between 5 and 500 Hz.

During the abrasion of the hair, it is possible, for example, to vary the amplitude and / or the vibration frequency of the abrasive surface and / or an orientation of the vibrations, the vibrations being for example in a longitudinal direction substantially parallel to the hair or in a transverse direction substantially perpendicular to the hair. Alternatively or additionally, the abrasive surface can move and be rotated by the mechanized system. The speed of rotation can for example be modulated during the abrasion of the hair. The rotational movement may be a rotational movement about a geometric axis of rotation for example generally perpendicular to the root-tip length or a more complex movement, for example comprising a combination of movements around distinct geometric axes of rotation.

The abrasive surface may for example be defined by a disc which moves in a plane by rotation about an axis perpendicular to the axis of the hair, the different regions of the abrasive surface coming successively in contact with the hair during rotation . The abrasive surface may further be defined by a strip moving about a single axis by describing a circular path or around two axes, for example parallel to each other, for example by describing an elliptical trajectory. The relative speed between the treated hair and the abrasive surface is for example between 0.005m / s and 10m / s, preferably between 0.01m / s and 3m / s, better still between 0.02m / s and 0.5m / s. s during treatment. The abrasion duration of a portion of hair may be, for example, between 1 ms and several minutes, in particular between 0.1 s and 60 s, the duration possibly depending for example on the intensity of the abrasion and the state of the hair. In the process according to the invention, the hair can be maintained while achieving hair abrasion. They can be held, for example, by hand or by means of a fraction device. The traction exerted on the hair can be measured during the treatment so as to control it, to give it a predefined value and / or to prevent the exceeding of a predefined pull threshold. Pressure can be exerted on the hair in contact with the abrasive surface. This can improve the effectiveness of abrasion. The pressure exerted on the hair is, for example, between 1 Pa and 1,000,000 Pa, better still between 100 Pa and 100,000 Pa, and preferably between 500 Pa and 50,000 Pa.

The mechanized system may include an electric, hydraulic, pneumatic, thermal or other motor. The mechanized system is preferably portable. The mechanized system moving one or more abrasive surfaces may be part of an apparatus. In the case of abrasive abrasive surface abrasion, the vibration of the abrasive surface (s) can be effected by means of at least one vibrating source which can be arranged in different ways. The vibrating source is for example arranged within the apparatus so as to vibrate it as a whole, the vibrating source being for example disposed near the abrasive surface, for example in a branch of the apparatus. Such a vibrating source may comprise for example an eccentric flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor, at a speed that can be fixed or variable, depending on whether a fixed or variable vibration frequency is desired. The orientation of the axis of rotation of the motor can make it possible to choose the direction of the vibrations. In the case of a vibrating source consisting of a flyweight rotated by an electric motor, the abrasive surface or surfaces can vibrate with the same amplitude as the parts of the device that support them. The vibrating source can still be disposed on the apparatus so as to move at least one abrasive surface relative to a portion that supports it. For example, an abrasive surface can be slidably mounted between two extreme positions and the vibrating source can alternatively move the abrasive surface relative to the part that supports it for example by means of a crank system, transforming a rotational movement. of an electric motor in a movement of axial oscillation of the abrasive surface. The oscillation frequency of the abrasive surface depends on the rotational speed of the motor, and this speed of rotation can be fixed or adjustable by the user. The apparatus may comprise a single oscillating abrasive surface or alternatively two facing abrasive surfaces which may oscillate in the same direction or in opposite directions, or oscillate independently of one another, with the same frequency or different frequencies , with the same amplitude or different amplitudes. The mechanized system may include a piezoelectric transducer or an engine with an eccentric feeder to create vibrations of the abrasive surface.

The apparatus can also be a device allowing abrasion by a one-way displacement of the abrasive surface. In this case, the support of the abrasive surface may be a band whose displacement is provided by at least one rotary axis and optionally a second axis, rotary or otherwise.

The support of the abrasive surface may for example comprise a disc pivoting about a rotary axis. The speed of movement of the support of the abrasive surface can be variable and be adjusted by a suitable device. The mechanized system may comprise an electric, hydraulic, thermal, pneumatic or other motor. The apparatus, whether operated by vibration or unidirectional displacement, may, to recover abrasive particles and / or particles or deposits detached from the hair during abrasion thereof, have a suction system. The suction system may for example comprise a fan and a filter and / or a pump and a filter and / or a liquid recovery system, comprising for example one or more oils collecting the particles and / or an electrostatic system which , by creating a potential field, attracts particles to a surface. The apparatus may comprise at least one abrasive or non-abrasive surface pierced with holes so as to allow the abrasive and / or detached hair particles to be sucked through these holes, which may result in or near the current hair. treatment. The apparatus can both abrade the hair and apply the treatment product. The apparatus may deposit product on the hair, for example by means of an applicator element disposed opposite the abrasive surface. The product can be brought to a dispensing orifice by any means, for example by gravity, capillarity or by means of a pump, for example an electric or manual pump driven by the user. The applicator element carried by the apparatus may be further pre-impregnated with treatment product and placed on the apparatus in the pre-impregnated state or the apparatus may be arranged to allow it to be soaked in the treatment product, either entirely or after disassembly of a removable part comprising the applicator element. The apparatus may further include a container having a flexible wall on which the user can press to force the product to flow to the hair.

The apparatus may include a heating system, for example to shape the hair after abrasion. The apparatus may for example have two surfaces, at least one of which may be abrasive, between which the hair to be treated may be introduced. The surfaces may be arranged to be able to hold a lock of hair together in a closed position and to release said lock in an open position. The apparatus may include means for controlling pressure from one surface to the other in the closed position. For example, the control means may comprise a controllable spring, such as a blade, a spiral, an elastically deformable material, and / or a stop, and / or an electronic sensor capable of triggering an audible and / or visual alarm when the pressure is excessive. The apparatus may include an audible or visual indicator to signal to the user that a sufficient number of passages has been made to avoid, for example, excessive hair abrasion.

The apparatus may comprise, in a variant, an element such as for example a wheel or other displacement sensor that allows the device to know the number of passages on the hair. Microsblocking Regardless of the abrasive surface or surfaces described above, the abrasion means may be configured to project abrasive particles onto the hair so as to abrasion them. In this case, the abrasive particles are free and not fixed on a support. The abrasive particles can be projected in the form of at least one jet. A jet of solid particles with a particle mass flow rate of between mg / s and 25 g / s, preferably between 10 mg / s and 10 gis, can be sprayed onto the hair. A jet of solid particles propelled by a liquid or gaseous fluid vector can be projected onto the hair. The volume flow of the carrier fluid, gas or liquid, between 50 Us and 41 / s, preferably between 500 Us and 21 / s.

By way of liquid fluid, mention may in particular be made of water. As a gaseous fluid, we can particularly mention air.

The jet of particles associated or not with a fluid can be carried out under pressure. The pressure is preferably between 2 and 50 bar better between 3 and 20 bar and even more preferably between 3 and 15 bar. Preferably, the fluid is a fluid under pressure. Even more preferably, the fluid is compressed air. The particle velocity at the moment of impact may range, for example, from 0.01 m / s to 750 m / s and preferably from 0.1 m / s to 100 m 3. We can foresee the possibility of modifying the flow rates above. For example, abrasion can be started at a high flow rate and then abrasion can be terminated at a lower flow rate, so as to avoid unduly abrading the hair. The flow rate adjustment can be manual, performed by the user, or performed by a treatment device, for example depending on the time elapsed since the start of treatment. The jet of solid particles projected onto the hair may have a transverse width of the jet in contact with the hair of between 10 m and 4 cm, better still between 50 m and 8 mm, and preferably between 100 m and 2 mm. On arrival, at the area of impact of the jet on the hair, the jet section may be between 0.0001 mm and 8 cm and preferably between 1 mm 2 and 1 cm '. Several jets can be emitted to the hair. These jets can be parallel, divergent or convergent. The impact zones of the jets may overlap or not, for example being substantially contiguous. At least two jets can be used to respectively treat two opposite sides of a lock of hair. The section of the jet (s) may be circular or not. Within the jet, the particle distribution may be homogeneous or not. The jet may be full or hollow. The carrier fluid may optionally carry, in addition to the particles, at least one hair treatment compound, in particular which may be chosen from: polymers such as cationic polymers, soluble or emulsion silicones, non-polymeric treating agents such as cationic surfactants, oils such as mineral oils, vegetable oils, or modified oils, such as transesterified oils; non-polymeric organic molecules such as solvents such as monoalcohols such as ethanol or isopropanol, polyols such as glycerol or propylene glycol, ethers of monoalcohols or polyols, aldehydes or ketones, such as acetone, alkanes such as isododecane, and in particular the solvents which can solubilize the fatty compounds, compounds used in the treatment of hair, such as dyes, oxidants, reducing agents, alkaline agents, acids such as s hydroxyacids, - compounds used in the treatment of the scalp or skin, such as antifungal agents, anti-hair loss agents, antiperspirants, peeling agents other than abrasive particles, - anionic, nonionic surfactants, cationic, amphoteric or zwitterionic. The vector fluid can thus constitute a hair treatment product. The particles can still be projected towards the surface to be treated without vector fluid, for example by being impacted by a vibrating surface, for example a sonotrode. The particles can still be magnetized and vibrated by an electromagnetic field. Provision may be made to modify the jet section, for example during abrasion, to treat a thinner wick or a reduced area or on the contrary a thicker wick or a larger area of the hair, for example. It is possible to simultaneously modulate or not the one and / or the other of the mass flow rate of the jet and the jet section, for example. Various mechanical, pneumatic, hydraulic or electromechanical means may be used to provide the required particle velocity.

The particle jet can be emitted from a nozzle. The jet may be emitted by a fixed nozzle or not, for example a nozzle animated with an oscillating movement or rotation. The abrasion means may for example comprise a hair treatment apparatus, comprising: at least one enclosure configured to be traversed by a lock of hair and / or formed by the lock of hair, a configured particle projection system to project abrasive solid particles onto hair, in particular onto a portion of hair contained in the enclosure, so as to achieve abrasion of the hair passing through and / or closing the enclosure.

The particle projection system can be arranged to project the particles with a carrier fluid under pressure. For example, the particle projection system may comprise or be connected to a compressor or suction pump arranged to propel the solid particles with an air flow. The particle projection system may include a solids inlet nozzle configured so that the solid particles are projected into the enclosure. The apparatus may include a reservoir of solid particles to be projected on the hair to achieve abrasion thereof. The apparatus may, to recover abrasive particles and / or particles or deposits detached from the hair during abrasion thereof, have a suction system. The suction system may for example comprise a fan and a filter and / or a pump and a filter and / or a liquid recovery system, comprising for example one or more oils collecting the particles and / or an electrostatic system which, by creating a potential field, draws the particles onto a surface. In the case where the apparatus comprises a suction system, it may further comprise a reservoir of used particles and deposits sucked by the suction system. Suction can take place inside the enclosure. The apparatus may include means for confining the particles in the enclosure, in order to reduce the losses of particles leaving the enclosure. This confinement means may comprise, for example, a flexible slot or a comb with closely spaced teeth traversed by the lock of hair and / or a confinement system by projection of compressed air in order to push the particles towards the enclosure at the openings. passing wicks. The apparatus can both abrade the hair and apply a cosmetic treatment product. The apparatus may include a heating system, for example to shape the hair after abrasion.

The enclosure may have an open position in which a portion of lock of hair can be arranged and a closed position in which it is possible to carry out an abrasion of the hair. The enclosure may for example comprise two integral shells in at least one zone for example, but movable between them so as to take a first open configuration and a second closed configuration in which the two shells are secured in at least two zones. The enclosure may have a cylindrical shape open at both ends of the cylinder so as to allow the passage of a lock of hair. The hollow volume of the enclosure intended to receive the hair may have a circular, rectangular, oval or other section. The enclosure can be moved for example by the user, during abrasion along the lock of hair treated, for example from the root to the tip of the hair, without interrupting abrasion, so as to treat the hair strand for example over its entire length, or at least a portion of length greater than the length of the enclosure. Alternatively, the device may require the interruption of abrasion to be able to move the enclosure. In this case, the abrasion can take place inside the enclosure without moving the enclosure along the hair when the latter are impacted by the particles. The enclosure may comprise reliefs, in particular teeth, arranged to allow combing of the hair. Hair composition with abrasive particles. Regardless of the above, the abrasion means may comprise a hair composition comprising abrasive particles which are applied to the hair so as to abrade. In this case, the abrasive particles may be of average size greater than or equal to 50 m, in particular greater than or equal to 100 m. The abrasive particles may have an average dimension of less than or equal to 500 m, or even 300 m. The hair composition may comprise abrasive solid particles in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, more preferably from 10% to 20%, more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

In addition to the solid particles, the hair composition may comprise one or more additives. The hair composition may also comprise one or more additional surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants. The surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants. Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature does not not in the context of the present invention, critical. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which can range from 2 to 50, for example. Copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide on fatty alcohols can also be mentioned; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides, or N-acylaminopropylmorpholine oxides. The nonionic surfactant (s) may be present in the hair composition in concentrations ranging from 0.1 to 25% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. With regard to amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 18, may be mentioned without intending to be limited thereto. carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic water-solubilising group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl betaines or (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in patents US Pat. No. 2,528,378 and US Pat. No. 2,781,354 and filed in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names amphocarbosyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: R 2 -CONHCH 2 CH 2 -N (R 3) (R 4) (CH 2 COO-) in which: R 2 denotes an alkyl radical of a R 2 -COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl radical or undecyl, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and wherein R2 represents CH2CH2OX ', C represents (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom. hydrogen Y 'denotes COOH or the radical CH2CHOH-SO3H R2' denotes an alkyl radical of an R9-COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular a C 7 radical, C9, Cl1, or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium ocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium cocoamphocarboxyl ethyl hydroxypropyl sulfonate. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie. With regard to the anionic surfactants, mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds: alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulpho acetates; acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C6-C24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulfosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof. The optionally present anionic surfactants are preferably mild anionic surfactants.

As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, and polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, - alkyl D galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, such as, for example, lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5%) sold, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO, may be used.

If such anionic or amphoteric surfactants are present, then their content ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. Preferably, the hair composition does not contain sulfate anionic detergent surfactant (alkyl sulphate or alkyl ether sulphate, alkylamidoether sulphate). And if it contains, its content is such that the weight ratio: anionic detergent surfactant of alkyl sulphate or alkyl ether sulphate / sum of amphoteric, zwitterionic, anionic mild and nonionic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 1, and more particularly lower or equal to 0.75 and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.5. The hair composition may furthermore comprise conventional additives in the field, for example those chosen from the non-exhaustive list, such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestering agents, softeners, defoamers, moisturizing agents and emollient agents. , basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct or oxidation dyes, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, fixing or non-binding polymers, proteins, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-hair loss agents, associative or non-associative thickening polymers, fatty amides, fatty ethers, fatty alcohols, etc.

The adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount, for each of them, between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. It should be noted that if the hair composition comprises one or more thickening agents, their content may be between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the hair composition, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight. relative to the weight of the hair composition. The hair composition may comprise one or more conditioning agents. When the hair composition contains at least one conditioning agent, it may be chosen from synthetic oils such as poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated gums, carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, vegetable or animal oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides and mixtures thereof.

Of the cationic polymers which may be used, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular chloride homopolymers or copolymers. of dimethyldiallylammonium, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by Nalco, cationic polysaccharides such as guars gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers, and their mixtures. Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character.

In particular, mention may be made, as preferred cationic surfactants, of Quaternium-87, marketed by DEGUSSA under the reference VARISOFT W 575 PG, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, marketed by Clariant under the reference GENAMIN KDMP. The content of conditioning agents in the hair composition can range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight, of the total weight of the final composition. The aqueous medium acceptable for the hair may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. The water content of the composition may for example be greater than or equal to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example linear or branched monoalcohols, preferably saturated, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol (2 methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture. The organic solvent or solvents may be present in proportions of, for example, between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the hair composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately. The hair composition according to the invention may be in different galenical forms such as a lotion, a shampoo, a gel, a cream or a wax. The hair composition may be packaged in any type of applicator container or not. The container may contain a ball or a member allowing in particular to homogenize the hair composition before application thereof on the hair. The container containing the hair composition may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15 ml, especially greater than or equal to 50 ml, or even 100 ml, especially greater than or equal to 150 ml, for example between 15 ml and 500 ml.

The abrasive hair composition can impregnate a wipe. The abrasive capillary composition may be introduced into a stream of vector fluid, for example by the Venturi effect, and be projected onto the hair. In a particular embodiment, the hair composition may be contained in a reservoir of a comb or a brush having, for example, orifices at the base of the teeth or bristles making it possible to bring the product and to apply it to the hair.

Cosmetic treatment product The treatment product may be, for example, a cosmetic product, in particular a care product and / or hair coloring or bleaching product. Cosmetic product is a product as defined in Council Directive 93/35 / EEC of 14 June 1993. In the case of the hair composition comprising abrasive particles, the treatment product may constitute the hair composition. Alternatively, the treatment product can be applied to the hair before and / or after abrasion thereof with the aid of the hair composition.

The treatment product is, for example, chosen from the following, this list not being limiting: the products intended to modify the mechanical properties of the hair, in particular comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, cysteine, sulfite, sodium hydroxide, guanidine carbonate, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidant, such as H2O2, persulfate; the emollient or penetration products, comprising, for example, a solvent, a glycol, a plasticizer, or a cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant, the products modifying the properties of the surface of the hair, comprising in particular a silicone, a reactive amino silicone, an adhesive polymer, a non-silicone lubricant comprising fatty substances chosen from vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, waxes, in particular fatty alcohols or fatty esters; the products restructuring the interior of the hair, comprising, for example, an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound, especially a formalin generator, a silane; and direct dyes or oxidation dyes. The treatment product can be applied prior to abrasion and can help protect the hair during abrasion, to avoid excessive abrasion. The treatment product can form a sheath on the hair. The abrasion can remove the excess part of this sheath, which is smoothed on the hair. The material forming the sheath can thus remain on the recessed reliefs of the hair. It is possible to apply a first treatment product before abrasion, in particular a reducing product, and a second treatment product after abrasion, in particular an oxidizing product, for the purpose, for example, of modifying the shape of the hair in a sustainable manner. In an exemplary implementation of the invention involving the application of a treatment product on the hair prior to contact with the abrasive surface, the treatment product is applied to the hair and then allowed to dry. The product may be packaged in a sealed packaging means, which is defined for example by a vial, tube, sachet or ampoule or other container. The container containing the treatment product may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15 ml, especially greater than or equal to 50 ml, or even 100 ml, especially greater than or equal to 150 ml, for example between 15 ml and 500 ml. The conditioning means may or may not be provided so that it can be plugged in and comprises, for example, a plug that can be fixed on a dispensing opening or a valve opening under the pressure of the product during dispensing. The product can also be packaged in a device allowing its distribution by spraying.

Treatment method The abrasion duration of a portion of hair may be for example between 1 ms and several minutes, in particular between 0.1 s and 60 s, the duration may depend for example on the intensity of the abrasion and the state of the hair. The number of passages of the facing surfaces on the hair, for example in a longitudinal direction from the root to the tip of the hair, can be between 1 and 100, in particular between 1 and 10. The hair can be treated from the root to the hair. the tip or otherwise.

The abrasion may be transversely or longitudinally relative to the hair, particularly in the case of an abrasion means comprising at least one abrasive surface or a hair composition. In addition to the steps of abrasion of the hair and application of a treatment product, the method according to the invention may comprise one or more other steps.

The treatment method can be implemented after a step of characterizing the hair, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under an enlarging device or by an instrumental way, for example by recording the its product by moving a comb in the hair using a sound level meter or optically determining the shine of the hair. The characterization of the hair can still involve a chemical reagent applied to a hair sample. Before coming into contact with the abrasive surface (s), it is possible to wet the hair or not. In the case of wetting and / or for carrying out the method under the shower or in a bath, when the abrasion means comprises at least one abrasive surface, the support may be able to withstand water, for example by not disintegrating in contact with it. The support may especially be impermeable and / or non-porous. The hair can be rinsed after the abrasion treatment.

After abrasion of the hair, it is possible to carry out a control of the degree of smoothing obtained, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under an enlarging device or by an instrumental way. The method according to the invention may also comprise the step of heating the hair in contact with the abrasive surface at a temperature between 40 ° C and 250 ° C, in particular between 60 ° C and 210 ° C, for example during or after the abrasion of the hair. For example, the hair can be heated after the abrasion so as to form them. The hair may be subjected to acoustic shock, including ultrasound or infrasound, for example before, during, or after hair abrasion where appropriate. This may allow, after abrasion of the hair, to detach the solid particles and possibly other particles or deposits present on the hair. The hair can also be subjected to treatment by exposure to an intense light beam, for example from a pulsed laser of short duration, such pulses can cause discoloration of the hair. In the case of abrasive surface (s), the hair can be applied against the abrasive surface (s) and this or these can be the only surfaces coming into contact with the hair at each implementation of the method. The method according to the invention may not comprise a combing step. Alternatively, at least one of the surfaces may comprise or consist of a plurality of teeth or bristles or may be integral with teeth or bristles.

The present invention further relates, in another of its aspects, independently or in combination with the foregoing, to a hair treatment kit comprising: an abrasion means for abrading the hair and one or more cosmetic hair treatment products. The abrasion means may comprise at least one support defining at least one abrasive surface as defined above, set in motion manually or mechanically. The abrasion means may comprise one or more abrasive surfaces and / or an apparatus comprising a mechanized system as described above. Where appropriate, all surfaces may be abrasive and the abrasive surfaces may be as described above. The abrasion means may alternatively comprise an apparatus for spraying abrasive particles on the hair as described above.

The abrasion means may, in another variant, comprise a hair composition as defined above. The kit may further comprise at least one other medium and / or an information notice mentioning, or even explaining, the abrasion treatment of the hair using the kit.

The treatment product may also be as defined above. When there is one, the support can be packaged separately from the product, within the kit. Alternatively, the carrier may be pre-impregnated with the product. All the constituents of the kit can be offered to the user in the same package, for example in a blister, a bag, a box, a box or other container. The kit may also include a tool or instructions for evaluating the hair before and / or after treatment. The invention also relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, to a hair treatment kit comprising, within a packaging device: a hair composition comprising abrasive solid particles preferably having an average size greater than or equal to 50 m, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, for example between 100 m and 500 m, optionally a support comprising instructions for the use of the hair composition on the hair in order to achieve abrasion of hair, a composition of post-treatment of hair. The hair composition with abrasive particles may be as described above. The abrasive solid particles may have a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, more preferably from 10% to 20%, more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

The post-treatment composition may be chosen from a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for coloring or bleaching the hair. The post-treatment product may for example be chosen from the treatment products described above.

The invention will be better understood on reading the following description, non-limiting examples of implementation thereof, and on examining the appended drawing in which: - Figure 1 shows a kit comprising two surfaces for carrying out the process according to the invention; - FIG. 2 illustrates the implementation of the method using the surfaces of FIG. 1; FIG. 3 represents a clamp comprising an abrasive surface support; FIG. 4 illustrates a kit according to another aspect of the invention; FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic sectional view of an example of an abrasive surface support according to the invention; FIGS. 6 to 9 are views; schematic and partial, in section, other examples of support, 20 - Figure 10 is a schematic and partial front view of another example of support, - Figure 11 is a schematic and partial sectional view of a another example of support, - Figures 12 and 13 represent each schematically, a comb having an abrasive surface holder; - Fig. 14 schematically shows a container for a hair treatment product having an abrasive surface; - Fig. 15 is a schematic perspective view of an example of apparatus for carrying out the method according to the invention, - figures 16 and 17 illustrate, in schematic and partial perspective, an example of use of the apparatus of figure 15, - figure 18 is a view schematic and partial of another example of an abrasive surface, - Figure 19 is a schematic view of another example of an apparatus during its use, - Figure 20 is a schematic view of another example of apparatus when Fig. 21 is a schematic view of another example of apparatus in use thereof; Fig. 22 is a schematic and partial sectional view of another exemplary apparatus for carrying out process According to the invention, FIGS. 23 and 24 schematically and partially illustrate two examples of setting abrasive surfaces in motion; FIG. 25 schematically illustrates another example of implementation of the method of treating hair according to FIG. FIG. 26 is a diagrammatic and partial sectional view of another example of a device for abrading the hair, in accordance with the invention; FIG. 27 shows in perspective, in a schematic and partial manner, the FIG. 28 is a view similar to that of FIG. 26 of the apparatus of FIG. 26 in operation, FIG. 29 is a schematic and partial view in axial section. Another example of an apparatus according to the invention is shown in FIGS. 30 to 32, in axial and diagrammatic cross-section. Examples of apparatus enclosures for implementing the invention are shown in FIGS. 33 and 34. are views In schematic and partial sectional view of other apparatuses according to the invention, in use, FIGS. 35 and 36 are AFM (Atomic Force Microscopy) photos of portions of hair, respectively before and after treatment of the hair according to the invention. the method according to the invention, and FIG. 37 is a schematic and partial view of another example of apparatus according to the invention.

There is shown in Figure 1 a kit 1, the packaging is not shown in the figure, having two surfaces 5 and 6, the surface 5 being abrasive and the surface 6 being for example non-abrasive. Kit 1 is arranged to implement the method according to the invention. The surfaces 5 and 6 consist of abrasion means for manually abrading the hair. The abrasive surface 5 is defined by a support 7 made in the example in question from a flexible material, such as a nonwoven for example. In the illustrated example, the abrasive surface 5 comprises abrasive particles 8, in particular alumina particles of hardness equal to 9 on the Mohs scale, fixed, for example glued, on the support 7 to form the abrasive surface 5. The non-abrasive surface 6 is for example defined by a support 7, identical to the support of the abrasive surface 5, without the abrasive particles. The non-abrasive surface 6 is, in the example considered, impregnated with a hair treatment product. The hair treatment method can be carried out using the kit 1 of Figure 1 as follows. The operator takes in his hands M supports 7 and traps a lock of hair C between the abrasive 5 and non-abrasive surfaces 6 opposite, as shown in Figure 2. The user can perform with his hands a movement of back and forth substantially transversely to the hair, so as to abrade the hair C between the surfaces 5 and 6. The operator can gradually move the supports 7 along the hair, for example substantially along the lock of hair C , so as to achieve an abrasion of the hair over their entire length, without interrupting the movement of side-to-side. Alternatively, the operator can abrade the hair on a portion of the wick, then move the supports 7 along the wick, and resume the abrasion movement, it being interrupted during the movement of the supports 7. L operator can start from the base of the hair and go to the tip. During the treatment, the hair is smoothed by the abrasive surface 5, while the treatment product is deposited on the hair through the surface 6. Alternatively or additionally, the operator can perform a longitudinal movement along the hair, for example by moving the supports 7 from the hairline to the tip. The operator can perform 1 or more passages from the root to the tip to abrade the hair, for example between 1 and 100 passages, especially between 1 and 10 passages. Such a movement may for example be carried out using a device as shown in Figure 3. This consists of a scissors type of clamp, comprising two hinged branches 12 on which are fixed supports 7 defining or not each an abrasive surface. The operator holds the gripper with the fingers inserted into the openings 11 made for this purpose, and can move the branches 12 away or closer together. The abrasive surface is, for example, of the same type as previously described.

The surface 6 is for example non-abrasive and may include flocking. The non-abrasive surface 6 may be impregnated with a treatment product. Alternatively, the operator can pour the treatment product on the hair or on the surface 6 before the hair treatment. In this example, at least the support 7 of the abrasive surface, and possibly that of the non-abrasive surface 6, is removably attached to the corresponding branch 12, for example by a hook, loop or Velcro type connection. This may allow the replacement of the brackets 7 between uses. The clamp may optionally comprise means arranged to control and / or indicate the pressure exerted on the hair, for example a spring or a dynamometer. It is not beyond the scope of the invention if the non-abrasive surface 6 is defined by a foam, an elastomeric coating or the like. In Figure 4, there is illustrated the possibility of making a kit 1 according to the invention, different from that of Figure 1 in that the surfaces to contact the hair of the kit are all abrasive. These surfaces comprise fixed abrasive particles 8, for example glued, on the support 7. The kit also comprises, as illustrated, a treatment product 10 which is for example packaged in a bottle, with a capacity equal to 250 ml, by example. The treatment method using the kit 1 of FIG. 4 comprises, for example, the steps consisting in producing the abrasion as illustrated in FIG. 2, using the two abrasive surfaces 5 and 6. Before, during and after / or after the abrasion of the hair, the user applies the treatment product 10 on one of the abrasive surfaces or directly on the hair. Optionally, it is possible to wet the hair before abrasion and it is also possible to rinse the hair after abrasion, for example before applying the product 10. The product 10 is for example applied after rinsing the hair and may comprise a restructuring agent of the interior of the hair, comprising a reagent such as a silane, for example. The kit may also include an information notice informing the user on how to use the abrasive media or to smooth the hair. The supports illustrated in Figures 1 to 4 are for example made of flexible materials or have a thickness giving them a certain flexibility. Alternatively, as illustrated in FIG. 5, the support 7 may be hard, the modulus of elasticity of the support being for example between 1 GPa and 4 GPa, and comprise abrasive particles to make the surface 5 abrasive. The abrasive particles are for example fixed by gluing on the support 7, using the glue 15. The support 7 is for example made of a relatively hard thermoplastic material such as PEHT. As an alternative to the bonding, the abrasive particles 8 can be dispersed in the support 7 in the form of a load, as illustrated in FIG. 6. This figure also illustrates the possibility of producing the support 7 with two opposite abrasive surfaces. FIG. 7 illustrates the possibility of implementing the method with reliefs 30 such as teeth projecting on the abrasive surface 5. These reliefs 30 can guide the hair on the abrasive surface 5. The reliefs 30 may be abrasive or not. The reliefs 30 may be made on the non-abrasive surface 6, if appropriate. The reliefs can be made by molding in one piece with the support 7 carrying the abrasive particles or alternatively with an element which carries the support 7, for example one of the branches of the clamp shown in FIG. in the case where it is hard, may comprise a structure arranged to allow the surface 5 to be abrasive, in particular may comprise a sinter as illustrated in FIG. 8.

Alternatively, when the carrier is hard, the abrasive surface may have asperities, for example, pins 16 as shown in FIG. 9, scratches 17 as illustrated in FIG. 10, or notches 18 as illustrated in FIG. Such asperities may be formed during the manufacture of the support 7, in particular for the pins, or may be etched or molded after manufacture of the support, in particular for scratches or notches. The asperities can have a depth of between 0.11 and 500 m. The one or more supports 7 may be detachably attached to a hair styling device, for example on a comb as illustrated in FIGS. 12 and 37, a brush, or an outer wall of a container containing a treatment product for the hair. as shown in Figure 14. The removable attachment can be obtained for example by means of hooking Velcro type or by a repositionable adhesive. The surfaces coming into contact with the hair can belong to two separate supports 15 as illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 4 or belong to the same support which is folded in two for example for the treatment. In the exemplary embodiments illustrated in FIGS. 1 to 4, the abrasion means makes it possible to abrade the hair manually. The abrasion means may alternatively be motorized. FIG. 15 shows a motorized abrasion means such as an apparatus 100 comprising a mechanized system for implementing the method according to the invention. The apparatus 100 generally extends along an axis X and comprises a gripping member 102 and a clamp 103 comprising two articulated branches 104. Each leg 104 is provided on one side facing the other leg of a support 107 defining a surface for contacting the hair. The branch 104a, in the illustrated example, comprises a support 107 defining an abrasive surface 105 while the branch 104b of the clamp 103 has a non-abrasive surface 106. The gripping member 102 houses a mechanized system, for example comprising an electric motor not visible in the figure able to vibrate in the illustrated example the abrasive surface 105. The vibration of the abrasive surface or surfaces can be effected by means of at least one vibrating source housed in the apparatus . The setting in motion is triggered by pressing a command button 110. The frequency of the vibrations can be modified by the user thanks to a setting button 111 moving opposite different graduations 112.

An adjustment knob 114 can be used to select the amplitude of the vibrations. The support 107 defining the abrasive surface is, in the example illustrated, made of a flexible material, for example comprising a woven fabric, on which are fixed, for example by gluing, abrasive particles 108, for example solid particles of alumina of spherical shape, hardness equal to 109 on the Mohs scale and diameter of about 8 m. It is not beyond the scope of the invention if the abrasive surface 105 is similar to one of the abrasive surfaces 5 described with reference to Figures 5 to 11, for example. The support 107 defining the abrasive surface 105 is fixed on the branch 104a, for example in a removable manner, for example by means of hooks or by means of a Velcro-type fastener so as to be able to change the support, for example if the abrasive surface is worn after one or more uses. The width of the abrasive surface 5 can be between 1 cm and 5 cm and its length between 1 cm and 10 cm. The surface 106 has no abrasive properties, not containing abrasive particles.

The surface 106 may be loaded with a hair treatment product. The product can be brought to a dispensing orifice, located on or near the surface 106 for example, by any means, for example by gravity, capillarity or by means of a pump, for example a electric or manual pump driven by the user. Alternatively, to implement the step of applying a treatment product of the method according to the invention, the user can pour directly onto the hair a product contained in a container of the type of that of Figure 4, for example. The application of treatment product can take place before, after or during the abrasion of the hair. To use the apparatus of Figure 15, proceed as follows.

The branches 104a and 104b are separated from the tongs 103, as illustrated in FIG. 16, so as to slide a lock of hair C, wet or otherwise, between the abrasive 105 and non-abrasive surfaces 106 of the tongs 103, the number of the hair of a lock of hair treated at the same time being for example between 100 and 5000. Clamp 103 is closed so as to trap the lock of hair C, branches 104a and 104b can be recalled to one another by an elastic return action, which comes for example from the presence of an elastic return member such as a spring. After having optionally selected the amplitude of the vibrations using the cursor button 114, the user presses the button 110 which controls the start. During abrasion, the user has the opportunity to change the amplitude of the vibrations. As illustrated in FIG. 17, the user can move the apparatus 100 along the lock of hair C, for example from the root to the free end of the hair, while the abrasive surface 105 vibrates in contact with the hair. hair. The apparatus may be arranged, if necessary, to allow the user to select the orientation of the vibrations. The apparatus comprises for example two vibrating sources respectively vibrating the abrasive surface parallel to the axis X or transversely thereto. The mode of vibration may be chosen according to the hair, a transverse mode may be suitable for hair with little damage, and a longitudinal mode may be suitable for very damaged hair. In a variant not shown, the user can vary the vibration frequency, for example by acting on the rotation frequency of a motor driving an eccentric flyweight. The user can slide the apparatus along the wick to be treated, as illustrated, or treat the portion of the lock of hair that is in contact with abrasive 105 and non-abrasive surfaces 106 without moving the apparatus, then open the clip, and reposition the device to treat another part of the lock of hair. Once the abrasion operation is completed, the user can rinse the hair 30 to rid it of abrasive particles and / or any deposits detached from the hair. The user can then perform any coloring or hair care treatment.

The apparatus 100 may comprise a suction system for particles and / or deposits, or a liquid recovery system. For example, as illustrated in FIG. 18, the abrasive surface 105 (or the counter-surface 106) may have holes 120 which communicate with a suction source, the latter being for example a fan. The apparatus may also include means for projecting a liquid onto the hair and recovering, for example by suction, the liquid sprayed. If the implementation of the apparatus comprises the step of wetting the hair before abrasion thereof, fixing the abrasive particles 108 may be such that they do not dissociate from the support 107 in contact with water or another product used. FIGS. 19 to 21 show further examples of apparatus 100 according to the invention each comprising a single abrasive surface 105, these apparatuses being devoid of counter surface.

In the example of FIG. 19, the abrasive surface 105 is for example rotated about the longitudinal axis X. The abrasive nature of the abrasive surface 105 is preferably sufficiently small so that the hair can slide in contact with the surface. abrasive surface 105 without clinging to it. The apparatus advantageously makes it possible to reverse the direction of rotation if necessary. This can turn the abrasive surface from root to tip. The abrasive surface 105 may include, if necessary, reliefs such as teeth, in order to comb the hair. The abrasive surface 105 may still be devoid of teeth, to reduce the risk of entangling the hair. The apparatus may comprise upstream or downstream of the abrasive surface, a comb. The abrasive surface 105 may be subjected to vibrations in addition to its rotation, for example vibrations parallel to the axis of rotation. To use the apparatus shown in Fig. 19, the user holds the lock of hair C while the abrasive surface 105 is rotated. In the example of Figure 20, the abrasive surface 105 is defined by a substantially plane disk rotated about the longitudinal axis Y of the apparatus passing for example through the center of the disk and perpendicular thereto.

In the embodiment of Figure 21, the abrasive surface forms a continuous strip driven in motion by the apparatus about two axes 125 and 126 in an elliptical path for example. In the example illustrated in FIG. 22, the apparatus 100 comprises two abrasive surfaces 105 and 106, the abrasive surfaces 105 and 106 and / or the supports 107 being identical or different. FIG. 23 illustrates the possibility of moving, for example motorized, the two abrasive surfaces 105 and 106 in an opposing movement.

In Fig. 24, there is illustrated the possibility that the surfaces 105 and 106 are abrasive and rotating both. It is not beyond the scope of the invention if the surfaces are abrasive and only one of the two surfaces 105 and 106 is rotatable, or if only one of the surfaces is abrasive and both surfaces are rotatable. In the method of using one of the apparatus shown in FIGS. 19 to 24, a cosmetic treatment product is applied before, after and / or during abrasion. This product may or may not be contained in the apparatus, and for example impregnate one of the surfaces 105 and / or 106. In a variant illustrated in FIG. 25, the treatment method according to the invention comprises the step of projecting on hair C abrasive solid particles 208, especially in a jet 203, so as to achieve abrasion of the hair. In this case, the abrasion means is configured to project abrasive particles onto the hair. In the example illustrated in FIG. 25, a stream of solid particles with a mass flow rate of 1 g / s is projected onto the hair. The solid particle jet can have a volume flow rate of 4 cm 3 / s. During the abrasion treatment, the flow rate of the solid particle jet can be changed. At the start of the jet, it may have a width of about 0.5 cm This width may optionally be modified during abrasion or before abrasion, so for example to adjust the degree of abrasion depending of the state of the hair. The jet of particles 30 is propelled by a fluid, in particular by compressed air in the example illustrated. The jet of particles is emitted from a nozzle 205 consisting of a single outlet of flattened shape (5 mm × 2 mm).

The solid particles 208 sprayed onto the hair are for example silica particles with a diameter of about 201um, the hardness of which is about 7 on the Mohs scale. Before, after or during hair abrasion, a cosmetic treatment product is applied to the hair. FIG. 26 shows an apparatus 200 comprising an enclosure 202 configured to be traversed by a lock of hair C. The enclosure 202 comprises, in the illustrated example, two shells 204 interconnected by a link 210, for example a link hinge type. The shells are rotatable about the link 210 so as to be able to assume a first configuration in which the enclosure 202 is open and a second configuration illustrated in FIGS. 27 and 28, in which the enclosure 202 is closed. In the first open configuration, the shells 204 are integral with each other at the connection 210 while in the second configuration the shells 204 are no longer movable with each other but positioned against one another and define a volume between them. 211 not closed at both ends of the enclosure to allow the passage of hair. In the example illustrated, the enclosure 202 has a substantially cylindrical outer shape and the volume 211 has an oval-shaped cross section. It is not beyond the scope of the invention if the enclosure 202 has another shape. An inlet channel 212 for the abrasive solid particles opens into the volume 211 defined by the shells 204. In this embodiment, the apparatus 200 also comprises a channel 213 allowing the aspiration of particles 208 from the volume 211. The channels Inlet 212 and 213 are housed in a hose 214 connecting the enclosure 202 to the rest of the device, not visible in the drawing. The number of arrival or departure channels may be greater without departing from the scope of the invention. In particular, the apparatus may comprise several arrival channels 212 of solid particles 208, so as to impact more hair or for a better effectiveness of the abrasion. In addition to the enclosure 202 and the channels 212 and 213 housed in the hose 214, the apparatus 200 may comprise a tank of solid abrasive particles 208, a particle suction system comprising, for example, a fan with a filter, a used particle reservoir, a compressor arranged to generate the pressurized gas driving vector of the abrasive particles 208 from the reservoir to the volume 211. The operation of the apparatus 200 shown in Figures 26 to 28 is as follows. After opening the chamber 202, the user inserts a lock of hair C and closes the chamber 202 as shown in Figure 27. The shells 204 can close and keep the closed configuration using any system of mechanical closing adapted, for example snap-fastening. Alternatively, the closure system can be automated. The user activates the apparatus 200 so that a jet of solid particles is projected from the arrival channel 212 of the particles 208 to the volume 211. The jet of particles projected onto the portion of hair maintained in the enclosure allows to abase these. During the abrasion, one can for example change the density or mass density of the jet. For example, a suction system starts simultaneously so as to suck the abrasive particles 208 and the particles or deposits D detached from the hair by abrasion, which are directed towards a used particle reservoir, if appropriate. The user has the possibility of moving the enclosure 202 along the lock of hair held in the enclosure 212, for example from the root to the tip.

Partially shown in FIG. 28 is an apparatus comprising only a particle projection system but without a suction system thereof. In this case, after abrasion of the hair, it is possible to rinse the hair so as to rid it of the abrasive particles 208 and other particles or deposits detached from the hair by abrasion.

The section of the anterior volume 211 of the chamber is not limited to the form shown in FIGS. 26 to 29. In FIG. 30, there is shown a volume 211 defined by two shells 204 which is of circular section. In Figure 30, the volume 211 has a cross section of rectangular shape. The shape of the inner volume 211 may be different without being outside the scope of the invention. At least one of the shells 204, both in the example illustrated in FIG. 32, may have on one inner face facing the other shell 204, one or more reliefs 215 such as teeth, for example to separate the hair and / or to comb it. These reliefs 215 may also oppose the starting abrasive particles of the processing chamber formed between the shells or limit the loss of abrasive particles outside the device.

FIG. 33 shows another example of apparatus 200 according to the invention, comprising a treatment chamber 220 defined by side walls 221, an upper wall 222 and closed lower as illustrated by the lock of hair C, course of abrasion. The top wall 222 is traversed by an inlet channel 212 abrasive solid particles 208 optionally added other particles, for example care active. The particles 208 are sucked after impact on the hair C with the deposits D detached from the hair in a starting channel 213 passing through the upper wall 222 of the treatment chamber 220. The arrival flow of the particles is generated by the prevailing depression in the chamber 220 because of the suction through the starting channel connected to a suction pump. Thus, in the absence of a wick, the depression is not formed and the particles are not in the chamber 220. In the example of FIG. 34, it is a vibrating surface 225 which sets the particles 208 in motion to go impact the lock of hair C and thus achieve an abrasion of the hair. The vibrating surface 225 can be moved by ultrasound. It can in this case belong to a sonotrode. The particles 208 are confined in a treatment chamber 220 defined by the vibrating surface 225, the lock of hair C and one or more side walls 221 integral with the sonotrode defining the vibrating surface. In the processes carried out using the apparatus of FIGS. 26 to 34, a cosmetic treatment product is applied to the hair, before, after and / or during the abrasion.

Example with a support having an abrasive surface The hair is treated with a flexible support consisting of a cardboard sheet comprising silica abrasive particles of about 201um diameter and hardness 6 on the Mohs scale.

The abrasion is wick by wick, on wicks having a diameter of between 0.5 and 1 cm.

Three passages are made longitudinally in the direction of the root towards the point on dry hair. Hair is taken before and after abrasion and analyzed by AFM microscopic analysis. Figures 35 and 36 are AFM (Atomic Force Microscopy) photographs of hair C before and after abrasion. It is observed that the scales E of the treated hair are more regular or less serrated, which can facilitate disentangling. In addition, after abrasion, there is noticeably more scales raised. The hair then receives a conditioning treatment product which is deposited homogeneously on the surface of the hair and / or penetrates effectively within it. Examples with an abrasive capillary composition The other examples proposed use a hair composition comprising abrasive particles in order to achieve an abrasion of the hair. In addition to the hair composition, a treatment product is applied to the hair, for example before or after the abrasion of the hair. In a particular example, the abrasive capillary composition constitutes the treatment product, the abrasion and the application of a treatment product being carried out simultaneously with the aid of the hair composition, in this case. The proportions are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 Demonstration of Smoothing Power The following hair compositions were prepared. Composition AB Carbopol980 [1] 0.2 0.2 Alumina a [2] 20 0 qs pH = 7 qs pH = 7 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 25 [1] CARBOPOL 980 marketed by NOVEON [2] DERMAGRAIN 1000 marketed by MARKETECH INTERNATIONAL INC 1201um particle size, Mohs hardness of about 9.

The study is conducted on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with long natural hair and 10 women with long hair sensitized. 10 to 15 g of each of these compositions A and B are applied per half-head, composition A being in accordance with the invention and composition B being a control composition. The application is wick by wick in two movements to achieve an abrasion of the hair: a first movement said "tangential", substantially parallel to the hair and a second movement called "shear", substantially orthogonal to the hair. Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying. Sensory Analysis The sensory properties of each half-head were evaluated comparatively: one treated according to the method of the invention using composition A and the other treated with control composition B. The results show that the treated side according to the method of the invention is smoother, more flexible and more homogeneous than the control side. It is also observed that the method of the invention makes it possible to control the volume of the hair by reducing the number of frizz. The effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized and thick. After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the hair is preserved as well as the control of the volume whatever the degree of sensitivity of the hair (natural to very sensitized).

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2 Smoothing power as a function of the size of the particles contained in the hair composition used Composition AC Carbopol980 [1] 0.2 0.2 Alumina "a" [2] (120 m) 20 0 Alumina "b" [3] (0, 68 m) 0 20 qs pH = 7 qs pH = 7 Water Qsp 100 Qs 100 25 [1] CARBOPOL 980 marketed by NOVEON [2] DERMAGRAIN 1000 marketed by MARKETECH INTERNATIONAL INC [3] ALUMINA BEADS marketed by MIYOSHI KASEI The protocol of Application of the hair compositions, hair abrasion, combing, rinsing and hair drying is the same as in Example 1, with compositions A and C. Sensory analysis The sensory properties of each half-head are compared. one treated with the process of the invention using a composition A containing solid particles of alumina of average size 120 m and the other treated using a composition B containing solid particles of alumina of average size 0 , 68 m. The results show that the composition A-treated side containing the "a" alumina particles is smoother, more flexible and more homogeneous than the composition C side containing the "b" alumina particles. After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the hair is preserved as well as the control of the volume when the hair is treated with the composition A containing the particles of alumina "a".

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of Hair by the Process of the Invention to a Conditioning-type After-treatment In this example, the process according to the invention is followed by a post-treatment of the conditioning type. The formulation of the D and comparative treatment compositions E is as follows: DE Cetrimonium chloride 0.8 0.8 Quaternium-80 0.306 0.306 Glyceryl stearate 1 1 Propylene glycol 0.294 0.294 Cetearyl alcohol 3.15 3.15 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulfate 1.35 1.35 [6] Pumice [1] 20 0 Buffer qs pH = 5.5 qs pH = 5.5 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 [1] Pumice: Pumice powder marketed by EYRAUD, average diameter 365 m.

The study is conducted on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with long natural hair and 10 women with long hair sensitized. 15 g of each of these treatments are applied per half-head. The application is wick by wick in two movements: a first movement called "tangential" and a second movement called "shear". Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying. Following this first hair treatment, a conditioner-type post-treatment is applied.

Post-treatment composition F Cetrimonium chloride 0.03 Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat 0.3 protein Glyceryl linolenate 0.002 Trideceth-6 0.1476 Glyceryl oleate glyceryl oleate 0.031 Glyceryl linoleate glyceryl linoleate 0.067 Glycerin 2 Isopropyl alcohol 1.125 Cetearyl alcohol 7 Amodimethicone 1.725 Behentrimonium chloride 4 , 9375 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0.05 helianthus annuus seed oil Cetyl esters 1.5 Preservatives qs Perfume qs Water Qsp 100 This post-treatment is applied on the whole of the hair then rinsed. The hair is dried by blow drying.

Sensory analysis The results show that the conditioning, that is to say the smoothing of the side treated by the process of the invention with the composition D is more regular from root to tip, lighter, more natural than the side treated with the composition E. The deposition of the conditioning product is adequately conducted leading to light roots and neat tips. The invention makes it possible to control the volume of the hair and to improve the discipline of the hair. The effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized and thick.

After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the hair is preserved as well as the control of the volume whatever the degree of sensitivity of the hair (natural to very sensitized). Examples with the microsabla2e In Examples 1 to 3 described below, as illustrated in FIG. 37, the apparatus 200 comprises a microsabler 230 of the ARENA trademark, referenced under the name of PL17. The apparatus 200 comprises an enclosure 202 of width e = 3 cm, making it possible to slide the hair in the volume 211 and to suck the abrasive powder after impact with the wick using a suction system 232. A small metal grid 231 holds the hair so that it is not sucked up. The abrasive particles, in powder form, are transported by a flow of compressed air, with a flow rate of approximately 1 liter per second. The nozzle 205 has a diameter of about 1.7 mm. The wick is slid into enclosure 202 at a rate of about 1 cm per second.

Example 1 In this example, abrasive angular abrasive particles of the trademark ARENA, reference ABC 220, consisting of a white corundum ranging in size from 50 to 70 m, are used. This treatment is applied to sensitized hair. EXAMPLE 2 In this example, the abrasive particles used are round, in the form of glass microspheres (trademark ARENA, reference ABV 05, diameter ranging from approximately 45 m to 89 m). The abrasion treatment is performed on natural hair before styling. In particular, the front locks are treated. Then, after a final rinse, it is capped using a lacquer (Elnett Satin). The hair is more easily kept in shape. EXAMPLE 3 A third example is made by using angular-type metal abrasive particles (trademark ARENA, reference P 300 3, dimensions ranging from 200 to 500 m). The abrasion treatment is performed on white and greasy hair. After treatment, the hair is washed, then a brown coloration is applied (Majirel 3.0). We can then obtain a color effect of high intensity.

Example 4 A sander 30 of the mark SD2, reference DA 15301, referenced by the supplier Henry Schein, under the article number 886-9361 is used. It is installed in the same assembly as for the previous examples. The abrasive particles 8 comprise an aluminum oxide powder of average size of 50 m. Blaster 30 is also supplied with compressed air by a compressor not shown, providing about 50 ml / sec of air. The nozzle is adjustable. Sensitized hair can be treated as in Example 1.

The expression having one must be understood as being synonymous with the expression having at least one, unless the opposite is specified.

Claims (15)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method for the cosmetic treatment of hair, comprising the following steps: - abrading hair using an abrasion means for abrading the hair, and - applying a cosmetic treatment product on the hair before, after and / or during hair abrasion. 2. Method according to claim 1, wherein the abrasion of the hair is carried out by applying thereon abrasive particles (8, 108, 208), the abrasive particles being chosen from the following: - the inorganic particles and / or metal such as boron nitride, especially in cubic form (Borazon), aluminosilicate, zircon, mixed aluminum oxides such as emery, zinc oxide, aluminum oxides such as aluminas, corundum, titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide, carbides, especially silicon carbide (carborundum), or other metal oxides, metals and metal alloys such as iron shot, steel including perlite; silicates such as glass, quartz or sand, calcium carbonate (for example, bora bora sand or Brignoles rose) or magnesium carbonate, pumice, amorphous silica, diamond, ceramics organic particles such as fruit cores, especially apricot kernels, for example scrubami apricot, wood cellulose, especially crushed bamboo stalk, coconut shell, for example coconut exfoliator; polyamide, especially nylon-6, and mixed particles combining organic and inorganic compounds, and the particles coated with the above compounds. 3. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the abrasive particles (8, 108, 208) have a hardness greater than or equal to 3, or even greater than or equal to 4, preferably greater than or equal to 5 on the Mohs scale. 4. Method according to claim 1, the abrasion means comprising at least two facing surfaces (5,6; 105,106) of which at least one is abrasive, the facing surfaces being in contact with the hair during abrasion and at least one of the facing surfaces acting on the hair by abrasion. 5. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein a single surface (5; 105) is abrasive, the other surface or surfaces being non-abrasive. 6. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the surface (6; 106) non-abrasive is used to apply the treatment product on the hair. 7. A method according to any one of claims 2 to 4, wherein the surfaces (5,6; 105,106) coming into contact with the hair are moved relative to one another during the abrasion treatment, the relative movement being generated manually or at least partially motorized, using a mechanized system. 8. The method of claim 1, wherein the abrasion means is configured to project abrasive particles (208) on the hair, particularly in the form of a jet (203) of particles, so as to achieve abrasion of these. 9. Method according to the preceding claim, wherein the jet (203) of particles (208) is propelled by a fluid, especially a pressurized fluid, preferably by compressed air. The method of claim 1, wherein the abrasion means comprises a hair composition comprising abrasive particles which are applied to the hair so as to abrade. 11. The method as claimed in the preceding claim, wherein the hair composition comprises abrasive particles of average size greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, and abrasive particles having an average size less than or equal to 500 μm or even 300 μm. . 25 12. Method according to one of claims 10 and 11, wherein the abrasive solid particles are in a content ranging from 0.1% and 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, better from 10% to 20% and even better from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 13. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the treatment product is chosen from: the products intended to modify the mechanical properties of the hair, in particular comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, lacysteine, sulfite, sodium hydroxide, guanidine carbonate, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidant such as H2O2, persulfate; the emollient or penetration products comprising, for example, a solvent, a glycol, a plasticizer, or a cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant, the products modifying the surface properties of the hair, comprising in particular a silicone, a reactive amino silicone, a adhesive polymer, a non-silicone lubricant comprising fatty substances chosen from vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils and waxes, in particular fatty alcohols or fatty esters; the products restructuring the interior of the hair, comprising, for example, an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound, especially a formalin generator, a silane; and direct dyes or oxidation. 14. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the hair is rinsed after abrasion. 15. A hair treatment kit comprising: an abrasion means for abrading the hair and one or more cosmetic hair treatment products.