FR2931665A1 - Method of treating hair, comprises scrubbing the hair with capillary composition comprising abrasive solid particles e.g. inorganic or metallic particle having boron nitride, aluminum silicate, zircon, mixed oxides of aluminum having emery - Google Patents

Abstract

Method of treating hair, comprises scrubbing the hair with a capillary composition comprising abrasive solid particles having average size of >= 50 mu m, preferably >= 100 mu m. An independent claim is included for a kit for the treatment of the hair comprising within a packaging device: the capillary composition, a support comprising an instruction for employment of the capillary composition on the hair to realize scrubbing of the hair.

Description

The present invention relates to the treatment of human hair. The hair can be altered by chemical treatments such as coloring, permanent, or by mechanical stresses such as detangling, blow drying. The mechanical, morphological and physicochemical properties of the surface of the hair, and in particular of the cuticle, external layer of the hair with a scale structure, are modified. In particular, during these treatments or solicitations, the scales of the cuticle rise and see their edges, normally regular, become serrated. These deteriorations can have several consequences. On one hand, the hair is less smooth and less easily disentangled. On the other hand, the assets of a hair treatment product, for example a conditioner, may be deposited heterogeneously on the hair. However, it may be desirable to deposit the care assets homogeneously on all the hair. It is known to treat damaged hair by applying thereto a care product comprising, for example, specific polymers such as silicones or cationically charged polymers. However, the improvement of the hair so treated is only temporary because once rid of the care product, for example after one or more washings, the hair back to its original state. There is a need to benefit from methods and kits for sustainably treating hair, especially those damaged on the surface.

One of the aims of the invention is to meet this need and it achieves this through a new hair treatment method comprising the step of abrading the hair with a hair composition comprising abrasive solid particles of average size greater than or equal to 50 μm. , especially greater than or equal to 1001um. The abrasive solid particles may have an average size of less than or equal to 500 μm or even 300 μm. The method may also include the step of combing and / or rinsing the hair after abrasion of the hair. By dimension in the sense of the present invention is meant the largest dimension of the particle. For average dimension in the sense of the present invention, the dimension given by the statistical size distribution to half of the population, called D50. Depending on the range of particles used, it can be determined using sieves or laser particle size.

The invention can make it possible to smooth the surface of the hair. The method can be used to smooth the hair. The invention can make it possible to prepare the hair for a hair after-treatment such as the application of a conditioner, a coloring, a perm, a straightening product, a fading product or the like . The method may thus comprise the step of subjecting the hair to a post-treatment, after treatment with the aid of the hair composition of the invention, the after-treatment being chosen from the application of a conditioner, a a relaxer, a product for coloring or discoloration of the hair, this list not being limiting.

The abrasion of the hair that is operated by implementing the invention may be more or less important, depending on the initial state of the hair and / or the desired result. The abrasion can be relatively soft and / or of short duration, so as to avoid breakage of the hair, during treatment or subsequent mechanical stresses such as styling, for example.

Thanks to the invention, the hair can be visibly smoother and the effect of the treatment is durable. The hair can be cleared of deposits that may be present on the surface before abrasion and the edges of the cuticle scales can be made more even. In addition, after the treatment, products intended to enhance certain properties of the hair or to change their appearance can penetrate more easily and deeply into the abraded hair. Hair Composition Abrasive Solid Particles The hair composition may comprise abrasive solid particles in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, better still from 10% to 20%, and still more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. By abrasive solid particles is meant particles having a hardness greater than or equal to that of the hair. For example, the abrasive solid particles may have a hardness greater than or equal to 3 on the Mohs scale, or even greater than or equal to 4, for example greater than or equal to 5 on the Mohs scale. The solid particles may be chosen from natural materials, in particular of mineral or vegetable origin, or synthetic materials. The abrasive solid particles may for example be chosen from the following materials, this list not being limiting: inorganic and / or metallic particles such as boron nitride, in cubic form (Borazon), aluminosilicate, zircon mixed aluminum oxides such as emery, zinc oxide, aluminum oxides such as aluminas or corundum, titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide, carbides, especially silicon carbide (carborundum), or other metal oxides, metals and metal alloys such as iron shot, steel, especially perlite; silicates such as glass, quartz or sand, calcium carbonate (for example, bora bora sand or Brignoles rose) or magnesium carbonate, pumice, amorphous silica, diamond, ceramics organic particles such as fruit kernel, in particular apricot kernel, for example apricot Scrubami, wood cellulose, for example ground bamboo stem, coconut shell, for example Coconut exfoliator; polyamide, especially nylon-6, and mixed particles combining organic and inorganic compounds, and the particles coated with the compounds described above. The solid particles may have a flattened, spherical, elongated, polyhedral or irregular shape. The solid particles can come for example from grains of pumice powder, diamond powder, fruit stone powder, coconut shell powder, microbeads, for example microspheres of alumina, glass, polyamide, especially Nylon-6, or fibers, especially polyamide fibers, hardwood cellulose fibers. Other components of the hair composition In addition to the solid particles, the hair composition may comprise one or more additives. The hair composition may also comprise one or more additional surfactants such as anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic or nonionic surfactants.

The surfactant or surfactants are preferably chosen from nonionic surfactants.

Nonionic surfactants are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this regard "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp 116-178) and their nature does not not, in the context of the present invention, of a critical nature. Thus, they may be chosen in particular from (non-limiting list) alcohols, alpha-diols, polyethoxylated alkylphenols, polypropoxylated, having a fatty chain comprising for example 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide groups or propylene oxide which may range from 2 to 50. Mention may also be made of copolymers of ethylene oxide and propylene oxide, condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide, polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular 1.5 to 4; oxyethylenated sorbitan fatty acid esters having from 2 to 30 moles of ethylene oxide; sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, N-alkyl glucamine derivatives, amine oxides such as (C10-C14) alkyl oxides or oxides N-acylaminopropylmorpholine. The nonionic surfactant (s) may be present in the hair composition in concentrations ranging from 0.1% to 25% by weight and preferably from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

With regard to amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants, aliphatic secondary or tertiary amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic radical is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 18, may be mentioned without intending to be limited thereto. carbon atoms and containing at least one water-soluble anionic group (for example carboxylate, sulphonate, sulphate, phosphate or phosphonate); mention may also be made of (C8-C20) alkyl betaines, sulphobetaines, (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkyl betaines or (C8-C20) alkylamido (C1-C6) alkylsulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in patents US Pat. No. 2,528,378 and US Pat. No. 2,781,354 and filed in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names amphocarbosyglycinates and amphocarboxypropionates of respective structures: R2-CONHCH2CH2-N (R3) (R4) (CH2COO-) in which: R2 denotes an alkyl radical of an R2-COOH acid present in the hydrolysed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl radical or undecyl, R3 denotes a beta-hydroxyethyl group and R4 a carboxymethyl group; and wherein R2 represents CH2CH2OX ', C represents (CH2) z-Y', with z = 1 or 2, X 'denotes the group CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom. hydrogen Y 'denotes COOH or the radical CH 2 CHOH-SO 3 H 2' denotes an alkyl radical of an R 9 -COOH acid present in coconut oil or in hydrolyzed linseed oil, an alkyl radical, in particular a C 7 radical, C9, Cl1, or C13, a C17 alkyl radical and its iso form, an unsaturated C17 radical. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names disodium cocoamphodiacetate, disodium lauroamphodiacetate, disodium caprylamphodiacetate, disodium capryloamphodiacetate, disodium ocoamphodipropionate, disodium lauroamphodipropionate, disodium caprylamphodipropionate, disodium capryloamphodipropionate, lauroamphodipropionic acid, cocoamphodipropionic acid, disodium cocoamphocarboxyl ethyl hydroxypropyl sulfonate. By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold under the trade name MIRANOL C2M concentrated by Rhodia Chimie. With regard to the anionic surfactants, mention may be made in a nonlimiting manner of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular of sodium, ammonium salts, amine salts, aminoalcohol salts or magnesium salts) of the following compounds alkyl sulphates, alkyl ether sulphates, alkyl amido ether sulphates, alkyl aryl polyether sulphates, monoglyceride sulphates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffin-sulfonates; (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylsulphosuccinates, (C6-C24) alkylamidesulfosuccinates; (C6-C24) alkyl sulphoacetates; acyl (C6-C24) sarcosinates and acyl (C6-C24) glutamates. It is also possible to use (C.sub.6-C.sub.24) alkyl polyglycoside carboxylic esters such as alkylglucoside citrates, alkylpolyglycoside tartrate and alkylpolyglycoside sulfosuccinates, alkylsulphosuccinamates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the salts of oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acids, coconut oil acid or hydrogenated coconut oil acid; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C6-C24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, (C6-C24) alkyl amido acids. polyoxyalkylenated carboxylic ether and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 alkylene oxide groups, in particular ethylene, and mixtures thereof. The optionally present anionic surfactants are preferably mild anionic surfactants. As regards the mild anionic surfactants, mention may be made in particular of the following compounds and their salts, as well as their mixtures: polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, polyoxyalkylenated alkylaryl ether carboxylic acids, and polyoxyalkylenated alkylamido ether carboxylic acids in particular those containing 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups, - alkyl D galactoside uronic acids, acylsarcosinates, acylglutamates, alkylpolyglycoside carboxylic esters. In particular, it is possible to use polyoxyalkylenated alkyl ether carboxylic acids, for example lauryl ether carboxylic acid (4.5%) marketed, for example, under the name AKYPO RLM 45 CA from KAO.

If such anionic or amphoteric surfactants are present, then their content ranges from 0.1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the hair composition, more particularly from 1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight. of the composition. Preferably, the hair composition does not contain sulfate anionic detergent surfactant (alkyl sulphate or alkyl ether sulphate, alkylamidoether sulphate). And if it contains, its content is such that the weight ratio: anionic detergent surfactant of alkyl sulphate or alkyl ether sulphate / sum of amphoteric, zwitterionic, anionic mild and nonionic surfactants is preferably less than or equal to 1, and more particularly lower or equal to 0.75 and even more preferably less than or equal to 0.5. The hair composition may furthermore comprise conventional additives in the field, for example those chosen from the non-exhaustive list, such as reducing agents, oxidizing agents, sequestering agents, softeners, defoamers, moisturizing agents and emollient agents. , basifying agents, plasticizers, sunscreens, direct or oxidation dyes, perfumes, peptizers, preservatives, fixing or non-binding polymers, proteins, vitamins, anti-dandruff agents, antiseborrhoeic agents, anti-hair loss agents, associative or non-associative thickening polymers, fatty amides, fatty ethers, fatty alcohols, etc. The adjuvants mentioned above are generally present in an amount, for each of them, between 0.01 and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the composition. It should be noted that if the hair composition comprises one or more thickening agents, their content may be between 0.01% and 20% by weight relative to the weight of the hair composition, preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight. relative to the weight of the hair composition. The hair composition may comprise one or more conditioning agents.

When the hair composition contains at least one conditioning agent, it may be chosen from synthetic oils such as poly-α-olefins, fluorinated oils, fluorinated waxes, fluorinated gums, carboxylic acid esters, cationic polymers, cationic surfactants, silicones, mineral, vegetable or animal oils, ceramides, pseudoceramides and mixtures thereof.

Of the cationic polymers which may be used, it is preferred to use quaternary cellulose ether derivatives such as the products sold under the name JR 400 by Amerchol, cationic cyclopolymers, in particular chloride homopolymers or copolymers. of dimethyldiallylammonium, sold under the names Merquat 100, Merquat 550 and Merquat S by Nalco, cationic polysaccharides such as guars gums modified with a 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium salt, quaternary vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole polymers, and their mixtures.

Among the cationic surfactants, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list): salts of primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amines, optionally polyoxyalkylenated; quaternary ammonium salts such as tetraalkylammonium, alkylamidoalkyltrialkylammonium, trialkylbenzylammonium, trialkylhydroxyalkylammonium or alkylpyridinium chlorides or bromides; imidazoline derivatives; or oxides of amines with a cationic character. In particular, mention may be made, as preferred cationic surfactants, of Quaternium-87, marketed by DEGUSSA under the reference VARISOFT W 575 PG, behenyltrimethylammonium chloride, marketed by Clariant under the reference GENAMIN KDMP. The content of conditioning agents in the hair composition may range from 0.001% to 10% by weight, preferably from 0.005% to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.01% to 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the final composition.

The aqueous medium acceptable for the hair may comprise water or a mixture of water and one or more cosmetically acceptable organic solvents. The water content of the composition is preferably greater than or equal to 50%, by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. As organic solvent, there may be mentioned for example linear or branched monoalcohols, preferably saturated, comprising 2 to 10 carbon atoms, such as ethyl alcohol, isopropyl alcohol; aromatic alcohols such as benzyl alcohol, phenylethyl alcohol; polyols or polyol ethers such as, for example, ethylene glycol monomethyl, monoethyl and monobutyl ethers, propylene glycol or its ethers such as, for example, propylene glycol monomethyl ether, butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, hexylene glycol (2 methyl 2,4-pentanediol), neopentyl glycol and 3-methyl-1,5-pentanediol; and the alkyl ethers of diethylene glycol, especially C1-C4, for example diethylene glycol monoethyl ether or monobutyl ether, alone or as a mixture. The organic solvent or solvents may be present in proportions of, for example, between 1 and 40% by weight approximately relative to the total weight of the hair composition, and even more preferably between 5 and 30% by weight approximately. Galenic Form The hair composition according to the invention may be in different galenical forms such as a lotion, a shampoo, a gel, a cream or a wax. The hair composition may be packaged in any type of applicator container or not. The container may contain a ball or a member allowing in particular to homogenize the hair composition before application thereof on the hair. The container containing the hair composition may have a capacity greater than or equal to 15 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 50 μm, or even 100 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 150 μm, for example between 15 μm and 500 μm. The hair composition can impregnate a wipe.

The hair composition may be introduced into a stream of vector fluid, for example by the Venturi effect, and be projected onto the hair. In a particular embodiment, the hair composition may be contained in a reservoir of a comb or a brush having, for example, orifices at the base of the teeth or bristles making it possible to bring the product and to apply it to the hair. Treatment method The abrasion of the hair can take place immediately after the application of the hair composition to the hair, for example in a time less than one hour, in particular less than 30 minutes, or even 10 minutes after the application of the hair composition on the hair. A rinsing of the hair, when it takes place, can intervene quickly after abrasion of the hair. The time between the application of the composition and rinsing may for example be less than 4 hours, especially less than 1 hour, for example less than 20 minutes. The step of abrasion of the hair can be carried out by rubbing the hair with the bare hands or interposing at least one surface between the hands and the hair laden with hair composition, for example a wipe or towel, a glove or other. The abrasion can be carried out otherwise than with the aid of a comb or a brush. The abrasion of the hair may for example be carried out using at least one surface set in motion, vibration or rotation in particular, by a mechanized system. Vibration of the surface or surfaces can be effected by means of at least one vibrating source which can be arranged in different ways. The vibrating source is for example arranged within the apparatus so as to vibrate the latter as a whole, the vibrating source being for example disposed close to a surface intended to come into contact with the hair, for example in a branch of the device. The vibrating source may comprise for example an eccentric flyweight driven in rotation by an electric motor, at a speed that can be fixed or variable, depending on whether a fixed or variable vibration frequency is desired. The orientation of the axis of rotation of the motor can make it possible to choose the direction of the vibrations. In the case of a vibrating source consisting of a flyweight rotated by an electric motor, the surface or surfaces intended to come into contact with the hair can vibrate with the same amplitude as the parts of the device that support them. The vibrating source can still be disposed on the apparatus so as to move at least one surface relative to a portion that supports it. For example, a surface intended to come into contact with the hair may be mounted so as to be able to slide between two extreme positions and the vibrating source may alternatively move this surface relative to the part which supports it for example by means of a crank system, transforming a rotational movement of an electric motor into an axial oscillation movement of the surface. The oscillation frequency of the surface depends on the speed of rotation of the motor, and this speed of rotation can be fixed or adjustable by the user. The mechanized system may comprise a single oscillating surface or alternatively two opposing surfaces which can oscillate in the same direction or in opposite directions, or oscillate independently of one another, with the same frequency or different frequencies, with the same amplitude or different amplitudes. The mechanized system may include an electric, hydraulic, pneumatic or other motor. The mechanized system may include a piezoelectric transducer or a motor with an eccentric feeder to create surface vibrations. The abrasion treatment with the aid of the capillary composition may for example be carried out by hand, for example by wicking, for example in two movements: a first so-called tangential movement, that is to say substantially the long hair, for example from the root to the tip, and a second shear movement, that is to say substantially orthogonal to the hair, in a direction transverse to them. The two movements can be repeated several times, for example at least five times, for example ten times. Alternatively, only one of the aforementioned movements can be performed and possibly repeated several times. Independently of the movement carried out, the number of passes on a wick may for example be greater than five passages, in particular between 6 and 100, for example between 6 and 10. The duration of abrasion using the composition comprising the solid particles may for example, depending on the desired intensity of the abrasion and the state of the hair. The process according to the invention may comprise two abrasion stages using two successively applied capillary compositions, each comprising abrasive solid particles, the average dimensions of the solid particles of the two hair compositions being different. Solid particles of the first applied hair composition is larger than that of the solid particles of the second applied hair composition. A single vial may contain the two separately packaged hair compositions, or two different vials may each contain a hair composition.

Another mode of packaging may consist of a bottle containing a basic hair composition without solid particles, which are packaged separately, for example in at least two separate compartments, depending on their particle size. In the latter case, the user chooses before abrasion the solid particles to be mixed with the base composition to form the first hair composition, the mixture being made by the user or within the bottle. The user may, after the first abrasion, perform a second abrasion by mixing this time other solid particles in the base hair composition to form the second hair composition. Rinsing can be done between and / or after both abrasions. Abrasion using the hair composition may not change the color of the hair. The treatment method can be implemented after a step of characterizing the hair, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under an enlarging device or by an instrumental way, for example by recording the its product by moving a comb in the hair using a sound level meter or optically determining the shine of the hair. The characterization of the hair can still involve a chemical reagent applied to a hair sample.

The method according to the invention may comprise the step of combing and / or rinsing the hair after application of the hair composition. Rinsing can be done with water. After abrasion of the hair, it is possible to carry out a control of the degree of smoothing obtained, for example by means of a visual examination with the naked eye or under an enlarging device or by an instrumental way. The method according to the invention may also comprise the step of heating the hair before or after contacting the hair composition, for example at a temperature of between 40 ° C. and 250 ° C., in particular between 60 ° C. and 220 ° C. ° C. One can for example heat the hair after abrasion, so as to shape them, for example by performing a blow dry. The heating of the hair may for example be carried out by means of an iron, a liquid water / steam mixture or by means of a heating helmet. The hair can be dried totally or partially.

The hair may be subjected to acoustic shock, especially ultrasound or infrasound. The hair may be subjected to acoustic shock after application of the hair composition, for example. This can make it possible to detach the solid particles and possibly other particles or deposits present on the hair.

The hair can also be subjected to treatment by exposure to an intense light beam, for example from a pulsed laser of short duration, such pulses can cause discoloration of the hair. Application of a treatment product The method according to the invention may comprise the step of applying, for example before or after abrasion with the aid of the hair composition comprising the abrasive solid particles, another hair treatment product. . The treatment product may be, for example, a cosmetic product, in particular a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for discolouring or coloring the hair. The treatment product may for example be chosen from the following, this list not being limiting: the products intended to modify the mechanical properties of the hair, in particular comprising a reducing agent, such as thioglycolic acid and its derivatives, cysteine sulfite, sodium hydroxide, guanidine carbonate, trihydroxymethyl phosphine, or an oxidant, such as H 2 O 2, persulfate; the emollient or penetration products, comprising, for example, a solvent, a glycol, a plasticizer, or a cationic, anionic or amphoteric surfactant, the products modifying the properties of the surface of the hair, comprising in particular a silicone, a reactive amino silicone, an adhesive polymer, a non-silicone lubricant comprising fatty substances chosen from vegetable oils, mineral oils, synthetic oils, waxes, in particular fatty alcohols or fatty esters; and the products restructuring the interior of the hair, comprising, for example, an ionene, a protein, a hydroxy acid or a reactive compound, in particular a formalin generator or a silane; direct dyes or oxidation dyes. The treatment product can be applied prior to abrasion and can help protect the hair during abrasion, to avoid excessive abrasion. The treatment product can form a sheath on the hair. The abrasion can remove all or part of this sheath, which is smoothed on the hair. The material forming the sheath may remain on the recessed reliefs of the hair, for example after abrasion. The treatment product is preferably applied after abrasion.

It is possible to apply a first treatment product before abrasion, in particular a reducing product, and a second treatment product after abrasion, in particular an oxidizing product, for the purpose, for example, of modifying the shape of the hair in a sustainable manner. Treatment kits The invention further relates, independently or in combination with the foregoing, to a hair treatment kit comprising, within a packaging device: a hair composition comprising abrasive solid particles of one dimension average greater than or equal to 501um, in particular greater than or equal to 1001um, for example between 1001um and 5001um, - a support comprising instructions for the use of the hair composition on the hair in order to achieve abrasion of the hair.

The hair composition may be as described above. The abrasive solid particles may have a content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, better still from 10% to 20%, even more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the hair composition.

The kit may further comprise a hair post-treatment composition. The post-treatment composition may be chosen from a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for coloring or bleaching the hair. The post-treatment product may for example be chosen from those described above.

EXAMPLES PROPOSED (the proportions are by weight relative to the total weight of the composition):

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 1 Demonstration of Smoothing Power The following hair compositions were prepared. Composition AB Carbopol980 [1] 0.2 0.2 Alumina a [2] 20 0 qs pH = 7 qs pH = 7 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 [1] CARBOPOL 980 marketed by NOVEON [2] DERMAGRAIN 1000 marketed by MARKETECH INTERNATIONAL INC particle size 1201um, hardness Mohs of about 9. The study is carried out on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with long natural hair and 10 women with long sensitized hair. 10 to 15 g of each of these compositions A and B are applied per half-head, composition A being in accordance with the invention and composition B being a control composition. The application is wicked by wick in two movements to achieve a hair abrasion: a first movement called "tangential", substantially parallel to the hair and a second movement called "shear", substantially orthogonal to the hair. Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying. Sensory Analysis The sensory properties of each half-head are evaluated comparatively: one treated according to the method of the invention using composition A and the other treated with control composition B. The results show that the side treated according to the process of the invention is smoother, more flexible and more homogeneous than the control side. It is also observed that the method of the invention makes it possible to control the volume of the hair by reducing the number of frizz. The effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized and thick. After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the hair is preserved as well as the control of the volume whatever the degree of sensitivity of the hair (natural to very sensitized).

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 2 Smoothing power as a function of the size of the particles contained in the hair composition used Composition AC Carbopol980 [1] 0.2 0.2 Alumina "a" [2] (120 m) 20 0 Alumina "b" [3] (0, 68 m) 0 20 qs pH = 7 qs pH = 7 Water Qsp 100 Qsp 100 [1] CARBOPOL 980 marketed by NOVEON [2] DERMAGRAIN 1000 marketed by MARKETECH INTERNATIONAL INC [3] ALUMINA BEADS marketed by MIYOSHI KASEI The application protocol hair compositions, hair abrasion, combing, rinsing and hair drying is the same as in Example 1, with compositions A and C.

Sensory analysis The sensory properties of each half-head are evaluated comparatively: one treated with the process of the invention using a composition A containing solid particles of alumina of average size 120 m and the other treated using a composition B containing solid particles of alumina of average dimension 0.68 m. The results show that the side treated with the composition A containing the particles of alumina "a" is smoother, more flexible and more homogeneous than the side treated with the composition C containing the particles of alumina "b". After shampooing, hair smoothing is maintained as well as volume control when hair is treated with composition A containing alumina particles "a".

COMPARATIVE EXAMPLE 3 Preparation of the Hair by the Process of the Invention to a Conditioning-type After-treatment In this example, the process according to the invention is followed by a post-treatment of the conditioning type. The formulation of the D and comparative treatment compositions E is as follows: DE Cetrimonium chloride 0.8 0.8 Quaternium-80 0.306 0.306 Glyceryl stearate 1 1 Propylene glycol 0.294 0.294 Cetearyl alcohol 3.15 3.15 Dipalmitoylethyl hydroxyethylmonium methosulphate 1.35 1.35 [6] Pumice [1] 20 0 Buffer qs pH = 5.5 qs pH = 5.5 Water Qs 100 Qs 100 20 [1] Pumice: Pumice powder marketed by EYRAUD, average diameter 365 m. The study is conducted on a panel of 20 women: 10 women with long natural hair and 10 women with long hair sensitized. 10 to 15 g of each of these treatments are applied per half-head. The application is wick by wick in two movements: a first movement called "tangential" and a second movement called "shear". Both movements are repeated 10 times. The hair is combed, then rinsed and finally dried by blow drying.

Following this first hair treatment, a conditioner-type post-treatment is applied. Post-treatment composition F Cetrimonium chloride 0.03 Hydroxypropyltrimonium hydrolyzed wheat 0.3 protein Glyceryl linolenate 0.002 Trideceth-6 0.1476 Glyceryl oleate glyceryl oleate 0.031 Glyceryl linoleate glyceryl linoleate 0.067 Glycerin 2 Isopropyl alcohol 1.125 Cetearyl alcohol 7 Amodimethicone 1.725 Behentrimonium chloride 4 , 9375 Helianthus annuus (sunflower) seed oil 0.05 helianthus annuus seed oil Cetyl esters 1.5 Preservatives qs Perfume qs Water Qsp 100 This post-treatment is applied on the whole of the hair then rinsed. The hair is dried by blow drying. Sensory analysis The results show that the conditioning, that is to say the smoothing of the side treated by the process of the invention with the composition D is more regular from root to tip, lighter, more natural than the side treated with the composition E. The deposition of the conditioning product is adequately conducted leading to light roots and neat tips. The invention makes it possible to control the volume of the hair and to improve the discipline of the hair. The effects are all the more remarkable as the hair is sensitized and thick. After 5 shampoos, the smoothing of the hair is preserved as well as the control of the volume whatever the degree of sensitivity of the hair (natural to very sensitized). The invention is not limited to the examples described. The expression having one is to be understood as being synonymous with at least one and between or ranging from inclusive limits, unless otherwise specified.

Claims (11)

REVENDICATIONS1. A method of treating hair, comprising the step of abrading the hair with a hair composition comprising abrasive solid particles of average size greater than or equal to 50um, in particular greater than or equal to 100um. 2. Method according to claim 1, the abrasive solid particles having an average size less than or equal to 5001um or 3001um. 3. Method according to one of the preceding claims, wherein the abrasive solid particles are in a content ranging from 0.1% to 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, better from 10% to 20% and even better from 15% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. 4. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the abrasive solid particles have a hardness greater than or equal to 3, or even greater than or equal to 4, preferably greater than or equal to 5 on the Mohs scale. 5. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the abrasive solid particles are chosen from the following materials: inorganic and / or metallic particles such as boron nitride, in cubic form (Borazon), aluminosilicate , zircon, mixed aluminum oxides such as emery, zinc oxide, aluminum oxides such as aluminas or corundum, titanium oxide, mica-titanium oxide, carbides , especially silicon carbide (carborundum), or other metal oxides, metals and metal alloys such as iron shot, steel, especially perlite; silicates such as glass, quartz or sand, calcium carbonate or magnesium carbonate, pumice, amorphous silica, diamond, ceramics, organic particles such as fruit cores, especially apricot, for example apricot Scrubami, wood cellulose, for example ground bamboo stem, coconut shell; polyamide, especially nylon-6, and mixed particles combining organic and inorganic compounds, and the particles coated with the compounds described above. The method of any of the preceding claims, including the step of rinsing the hair after abrasion. 7. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising the step of subjecting the hair to a post-treatment, after treatment with the aid of the hair composition, the post-treatment being chosen from the application of a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product of coloring or discoloration of the hair. 8. Process according to any one of claims 1 to 7, the abrasion treatment being carried out by lock. 9. A method according to any one of claims 1 to 8, the step of abrasion of the hair being performed by rubbing the hair with the bare hands or interposing at least one surface between the hands and hair loaded with hair composition. 10. Method according to any one of claims 1 to 9, being implemented to smooth the hair. 11. A hair treatment kit comprising, within a packaging device: a capillary composition, comprising abrasive solid particles of average size greater than or equal to 50 μm, in particular greater than or equal to 100 μm, in particular between 100 μm; at 500 m, a support comprising instructions for the use of the hair composition on the hair to effect hair abrasion. 14. Kit according to claim 11, the abrasive solid particles content ranging from 0.1 to 20%, especially from 5% to 20%, better still from 10% to 20%, more preferably from 15% to 20% by weight. relative to the total weight of the hair composition. 15. Kit according to one of claims 11 and 12, comprising a composition 25 of post-treatment of hair. 16. Kit according to claim 13, the post-treatment composition being chosen from a conditioner, a perm, a relaxer, a product for coloring or bleaching hair.