FR2916628A1 - Product, useful for make-up of keratin materials, preferably lips, comprises first composition comprising phosphate surfactant and silicone polyamide, and second composition comprising phenylated silicone oil and solid fatty substance - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic product for make-up of keratin materials, preferably lips, comprises a first and second compositions, packed in separate containers, where the first composition comprises a phosphate surfactant and a silicone polyamide, and the second composition comprising a phenylated silicone oil and solid fatty substance.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic product comprising at least

  at least two compositions that can be applied successively to the skin of the face as well as the body, on the lower and upper eyelids, on the lips and on the integuments such as nails, eyebrows, eyelashes or hair. The present invention also relates to a process for making up the face and the body using these two compositions.

  Each composition may be a foundation, a blush, an anti-ring product, a blush, a loose or compacted powder, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a pencil. lips or eyes, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a product of body make-up or skin coloring.

  An object of the present invention is to provide a makeup that is both good and bright. Another object of the present invention is to provide a makeup with non-transfer properties and gloss. In particular, the products according to the invention have a good performance, are non-transfer and shiny, once applied to keratin materials.

  Poor behavior over time can result in particular in poor color retention and / or poor gloss performance over time. This poor performance may be characterized by a change in color (turning, paling) generally as a result of an interaction with sebum and / or sweat secreted by the skin in the case of foundation and make-up, or of an interaction with saliva in the case of lipsticks, or a decrease in gloss, in the case of a nail polish. This forces the user to remix himself very often, which can be a waste of time.

  The makeup compositions for the lips and the so-called non-transfer skin are compositions which have the advantage of forming a deposit which does not transfer, at least in part, onto the supports with which they are brought into contact (glass, clothing, cigarette, tissues).

  The present invention aims to provide a cosmetic product, in particular a makeup product, comprising two compositions to be applied successively one after the other. This cosmetic product may advantageously have good gloss and hold properties.

  The applicant has found that these properties are achieved by combining a first composition comprising a silicone polyamide and a phosphated surfactant, a second composition comprising a phenyl silicone, and a solid fatty substance.

  Thus, the products according to the invention make it possible to obtain a very brilliant cosmetic rendering on application and over time, which does not migrate, does not transfer, of good behavior, while being comfortable to the application and in the time (not sticky, not drying, no tugging).

  In particular, the product of the invention makes it possible to obtain continuous deposits on the skin or the lips, which are non-sticky, of good coverage, having a very shiny appearance, adapted to the desire of the consumer, not migrating, not transferring and of good behavior, not oily, not drying the skin, the hair or the lips on which it is applied, as well during the application as during the time. It has, in addition to good stability properties and thus allows a homogeneous and aesthetic application.

  It has further been found that the compositions of the product according to the invention have qualities of spreading and adhesion on the skin, lips or eyelashes, particularly interesting, as well as a creamy and pleasant touch. These holding, non-transfer and non-migration properties, combined with the shiny, non-greasy appearance, make it a particularly suitable product for making lip makeup products such as lipsticks, lip glosses, eyes such as as mascara, eyeliners, eyeshadows, nails or hair. An object of the present invention is therefore a cosmetic product for making up keratin materials, in particular for the lips, comprising a first and a second composition packaged in separate containers, the first composition containing a phosphated surfactant and a silicone polyamide. and the second composition distinct from the first comprising a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance.

  The product of the invention may be in particular a makeup product for the skin, nails or hair. "Makeup product" means a product containing a coloring agent for the deposition of a color on a keratinous material (skin or superficial body growths) of human being by the application to the keratin material of products such as reds. lips, make-up, eyeliners, foundations or self-tanners, semi permanent make-up products (tattoo).

  The product according to the invention comprises at least two cosmetically acceptable compositions packaged separately or together in one and the same packaging article or in at least two separate packaging articles.

  Preferably, these compositions are packaged separately and advantageously in separate packaging articles.

  The invention also relates to a makeup kit containing a cosmetic makeup product as defined above, wherein the different compositions are packaged separately and are advantageously accompanied by appropriate application means. These means may be brushes, brushes, pens, pencils, felts, feathers, sponges, tubes and / or foam tips.

  The first composition of the product according to the invention may constitute a base layer applied to the keratin material and the second composition a top layer. It is possible to apply under the first layer an under layer having the constitution or not of the second layer. In particular, the base layer is a lipstick, a foundation, a mascara, a lip gloss, an eyeliner, a nail polish, a nail care product, a body makeup product, and the top layer (or top coat) a care product or protection.

  The invention also relates to a process for making up the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments comprising applying to the skin and / or the lips and / or the integuments a cosmetic product as defined above.

  The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the care or make-up of the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments of a human being, consisting in applying a first layer to the skin, the lips and / or the integuments. Of a first composition containing a phosphated surfactant and a silicone polyamide, then to apply, on all or part of the first layer, a second layer of a second composition comprising a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance.

  The product according to the invention can be applied to the skin of the face as well as the scalp and the body, the lips, the interior of the lower eyelids, and integuments such as nails, eyelashes, hair, eyebrows. , even the hairs. The second composition can form patterns and can be applied with a pen, pencil or any other instrument (sponge, finger, brush, brush, pen). This makeup can also be applied to make-up accessories such as false nails, false eyelashes, wigs or patches or adherent patches on the skin or lips (fly type).

  The invention also relates to the cosmetic use of the cosmetic product defined above to improve the holding properties of a bright makeup on the skin and / or the lips and / or integuments.

  The invention finally relates to the use of a composition comprising a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance, and a composition comprising a phosphatized surfactant and a silicone polyamide, for imparting to the skin and / or lips and / or integuments a cosmetic rendering comfortable, shiny and good performance. First composition

  The first composition according to the invention comprises at least one silicone polyamide.

  Silicone Polyamide As indicated above, the compositions according to the invention comprise at least one silicone polyamide. The silicone polyamides of the composition are preferably solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg). For the purposes of the invention, the term "polymer" means a compound having at least 2 repeating units, preferably at least 3 repeating units and more preferably 10 repeating units. The silicone polymers of the composition of the invention may be polyorganosiloxane-type polymers such as those described in US-A-5,874,069, US-A-5,919,441, US-A-6,051,216, and US-A-5,051,216. No. 5,981,680. According to the invention, the silicone polymers may belong to the following two families: (1) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located in the polymer chain, and / or (2) polyorganosiloxanes comprising at least two amide groups, these two groups being located on grafts or branches. A) According to a first variant, the silicone polymers are polyorganosiloxanes as defined above and whose amide units are arranged in the polymer chain. The silicone polyamides may more particularly be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the general formula I: ## STR1 ## in which: G 'represents C (O) when G is -C (O) -NH-Y-NH-, and G 'is -NH- when G is -NH-C (O) -YC (O) -2) R4, R5, R6 and R7, the same or different, represent a group chosen from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups of C 1 to C 40, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and which may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms; - C6-C1 aryl groups, optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups; - polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not containing one or more carbon atoms; oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, 3) the X, identical or different, represent an alkylene di-yl, lin an area or branched C to Cao, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms, 4) Y is a linear or branched divalent alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene group, saturated or unsaturated, at C, at CSO, which may contain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms and / or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, cycloalkyl C 1-8 alkyl, C 1-6 alkyl C 1-6 alkyl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1-3 C 1-3 alkyl, C 1-3 hydroxyalkyl and amino C 1-6 alkyl, or 5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: in which - T represents a trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, C3 to C24 optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more atoms chosen from O , N and S, where T is a trivalent atom chosen from N, P and Al, and R8 represents a linear or branched C5-C50 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester, amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide which may or may not be bound to another chain of the polymer, 6) n is an integer ranging from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer ranging from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to at 700 and even better from 6 to 200.

  According to one embodiment of the invention, 80% of the R 4, R 5, R 6 and R 7, of the polymer are preferably chosen from methyl, ethyl, phenyl and 3,3,3-trifluoropropyl groups. In another embodiment, 80% of the R4, R5, R6 and R7 of the polymer are methyl groups. According to the invention, Y may represent various divalent groups, optionally additionally having one or two free valences to establish bonds with other units of the polymer or copolymer. Preferably, Y represents a group chosen from: a) C 1 -C 20, preferably C 1 -C 4, linear alkylene groups; b) branched alkylene groups which may comprise unsubstantiated rings and unsaturations, in Cao at C56, c) C5-CO cycloalkylene groups, d) phenylene groups optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups, e) C1-C20 alkylene groups having from 1 to 5 groups. amides; f) C 1 -C 20 alkylene groups having one or more substituents selected from hydroxyl, C 3 -C 3 cycloalkane, C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 -C 6 alkylamines; 10 g) polyorganosiloxane chains; of formula:

  Where R4, R5, R6, R7, T and m are as defined above.

  B) According to the second variant, the silicone polyamides may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to formula (II): R 4 Si R 6 miR 11 Si OR 1 M2 in which - R 4 and R 6, identical or different, are such that defined above for the formula (I), - R10 represents a group as defined above for R4 and R6, or represents the group of formula -XG "-R12 in which X are as defined above for the formula (I) and R12 represents a hydrogen atom or a linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon group, saturated or unsaturated, C1 to C50 optionally comprising in its chain one or more atoms selected from O, S and N, optionally substituted; by one or more fluorine atoms and / or one or more hydroxyl groups, or a phenyl group optionally substituted by one or more C1-C4 alkyl groups and G "represents C (O) NH- and NH-C (O) - . R11 represents the group of formula -XG "-R12 in which X, G" and R12 are as defined above, - m1 is an integer ranging from 1 to 998, and - m2 is an integer ranging from 2 to 500.

  According to the invention, the silicone polymer may be a homopolymer, that is to say a polymer comprising several identical units, in particular units of formula (I) or of formula (II). According to the invention, it is also possible to use a polymer consisting of a copolymer comprising several different units of formula (I), that is to say a polymer in which at least one of R4, R5, R6, R7, X, G, Y, m and n are different in one of the patterns. The copolymer may also be formed of several units of formula (II), in which at least one of R4, R6, R1, R11, m1 and m2 is different in at least one of the units. It is also possible to use a polymer comprising at least one unit of formula (I) and at least one unit of formula (II), the units of formula (I) and the units of formula (II) being identical or different from each other. other. According to a variant of the invention, it is also possible to use, in place of the silicone polymer, a silicone polymer comprising in addition at least one hydrocarbon unit 9 comprising two groups capable of establishing hydrogen interactions chosen from ester, amide and sulfonamide groups, carbamate, thiocarbamate, urea, urethane, thiourea, oxamido, guanidino, biguanidino and combinations thereof.

  These copolymers can be block polymers, block polymers or graft polymers. In the formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene group representing X or Y may optionally contain in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements:

  1) 1 to 5 amide groups, urea, urethane, or carbamate,

  2) a C5 or C6i cycloalkyl group and

  3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups.

  In formulas (I) and (II), the alkylene groups may also be substituted by at least one member selected from the group consisting of: - a hydroxy group,

  a C 3 to C 8 cycloalkyl group; one to three C 1 to C 40 alkyl groups;

  a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three alkyl groups (CH2), (CH2) 22916628 at C.sub.1 -C.sub.3

  A C 1 -C 3 hydroxyalkyl group and

  a C 1 -C 6 aminoalkyl group.

  In these formulas (I) and (II), Y may also represent: R8 T 25 where R8 is a polyorganosiloxane chain, and T is a group of the formula: or R13 (CH2) a C (CH2) b (CH2) a N (CH2) b ù

  wherein a, b and c are independently integers from 1 to 10, and R13 is a hydrogen atom or a group such as those defined for R4, R5, R6 and R7. In the formulas (I) and (II), R4, R5, R6 and R7 preferably represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-C3H7 or isopropyl group, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups. As seen above, the polymer may comprise identical or different units of formula (I) or (II). Thus, the polymer may be a polyamide containing several units of formula (I) or (II) of different lengths, ie a polyamide corresponding to formula (III): R4 R5 R4 R5

  Wherein X, Y, n, R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, m1, where X, Y, n, R4 to R7 have the meanings given above, m1. and m2 which are different are selected from the range of 1 to 1000, and p is an integer from 2 to 300. In this formula, the units may be structured to form either a block copolymer or a random copolymer or an alternating copolymer. In this copolymer, the units may be not only of different lengths but also of different chemical structures, for example having different Ys. In this case, the polymer can meet formula IV:

  R4 R4 I ~ I ~ I ~ [C (0) ùXù [ù Si0 SiùXùC (0) ù NH ùYù NHJ ~ C (0) ùX- - Si0 SiùXùC (0) ù NH ùY'ù NH R6 m'R7 n R6 wherein R4 to R7, X, Y, m1 m2, n and p have the meanings given above and Y1 is different from Y but selected from the groups defined for Y. As previously, the different patterns may be be structured to form either a block copolymer, a random copolymer, or an alternating copolymer. In this first embodiment of the invention, the silicone polymer may also consist of a graft copolymer. Thus, the polyamide with silicone units may be grafted and optionally crosslinked with silicone chains containing amide groups. Such polymers can be synthesized with trifunctional amines.

  According to the invention, as seen above, the siloxane units may be in the main chain or backbone of the polymer, but they may also be present in grafted or pendant chains. In the main chain, the siloxane units may be in the form of segments as described above. In the pendant or grafted chains, the siloxane units may appear individually or in segments.

  According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, it is possible to use a copolymer of silicone polyamide and hydrocarbon-based polyamide, ie a copolymer comprising units of formula (I) or (II) and hydrocarbon-based polyamide units. In this case, the polyamide-silicone units may be disposed at the ends of the hydrocarbon polyamide. Advantageously, the composition comprises at least one polyamide / polydimethylsiloxane polymer, in particular a polymer of general formula (I) having an index m of value greater than 50, in particular greater than 75, in particular of approximately 100. More preferably, X and Y represent independently a group chosen from C 1 to C 20, preferably C 1 to C 4, preferably C 1, alkylene groups. As examples of usable polymers, mention may be made of one of the silicone polyamides obtained in accordance with Examples 1 to 3 of US-A-5,981,680, such as the product sold under the reference DC 2-8179 by Dow Corning).

  According to an alternative embodiment of the invention, the polymer consists of a homopolymer or copolymer comprising urethane or urea groups. These polymers are described in detail in application WO 2003/106614. The first composition may contain, in place of the silenced polyamide, a polyorganosiloxane polymer containing two or more urethane and / or urea groups, either in the backbone of the polymer, or on side chains or pendant groups. The polymers comprising at least two urethane and / or urea groups in the backbone may be polymers comprising at least one unit corresponding to the following formula: R5

  Wherein R4, R5, R6, R7, X, Y, m and n have the meanings given above for the formula (I), and U represents -O- or -NH-. so that: UC NH Il 0

  corresponds to a urethane or urea group. In this formula, Y may be a linear or branched C 1 -C 40 alkylene group optionally substituted with C 1 -C 15 alkyl or C 5 -C 10 aryl. Preferably, a - (CH 2) 6 - group is used.

  The polymer constituting the silicone polymer may be formed of silicone urethane and / or silicone-urea units of different lengths and / or constitution, and may be in the form of block, sequential or random (random) block copolymers. As in the case of silicone polyamides of formula (I), (II) or (III), polyurethanes or silicone polyureas having patterns of different length and structure, in particular length patterns, may be used in the invention. different by the number of silicone units. The polymers and copolymers used in the composition of the invention advantageously have a transition temperature of the solid state in the liquid state ranging from 45 ° C. to 190 ° C. Preferably, they have a solid state transition temperature. in the liquid state ranging from 70 to 130 C and better still from 80 C to 105 C. The silicone polymer may be present in the first composition in a total content ranging from 0.5% to 70% by weight relative to the total weight the composition, preferably from 5% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 10% to 45% by weight, preferably from 20 to 30% by weight of the total weight of said composition. Phosphate surfactant The first composition comprises at least one phosphated surfactant. R6 Phosphated surfactant means a compound which comprises at least one phosphate group. The phosphated surfactant may be selected from the following compounds and mixtures thereof. The phosphated surfactant may in particular be of formula (XIV): ## STR1 ##

  with R 1, R 2 and R 3, which are identical or different, and which may be chosen from: a group M with M representing an alkali metal, such as Na, Li, K, preferably Na or K, a group OR 4, in which R 4 represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic alkyl group, - an OH group, and - an oxyethylenated (OCH 2 CH 2) n (OCH 2 CHCH 3) mOR group with R representing a hydrogen atom or a linear or branched C 1 -C 4 alkyl group. , at 020, in particular at C5 to C8, or even at C12 to C1S, and n and m being integers with n varying from 1 to 50, or even being equal to 10, and m varying from 0 to 50 or even being 0. According to a first embodiment, R 1, R 2 and R 3 may be identical. According to another embodiment, at least one, in particular two or all of the radicals R 1, R 2 and R 3 are (nt), a group OR 4, in which R 4 represents a linear or branched C 1 to C 10 alkyl group. 030, especially 015 to 021, or even 018. R1, R2 and R3 may be the same or different. By way of nonlimiting illustration of these compounds of formula (XIV), there may be mentioned trioleyl phosphate such as NIKKOL TDP marketed by NIKKO CHEMICALS, the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and ethylene ether glycol and C12-C15 fatty alcohols (about 10 0E) (INCI name TRI-012-15 PARETH-10 PHOSPHATE) such as NIKKOL TDP-10 marketed by the company NIKKO CHEMICALS and potassium cetyl phosphate such as l AMPHISOL K marketed by DSM Nutricional Products or ARLATONE MAP 160 K by Uniquema. The composition may also comprise, as phosphate surfactant, at least one glycerophospholipid, optionally in a mixture with a compound of formula (XIV). For the purposes of the present invention, glycerophospholipid is understood to mean an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one saturated or unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, said phosphoric acid being substituted with a compound chosen from alcohols carrying a functional group. amine, especially a beta-amino alcohol. The beta-amino alcohol may be chosen, for example, from choline, ethanolamine and / or serine. The glycerophospholipid may in particular be defined according to the following general formula (XV): ## STR5 ## in which: R 1 and R 2 represent, independently of one another, a fatty acid comprising from 4 to at 24 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, optionally branched, and capable of being substituted by one or more hydroxyl and / or amine functions, and - X represents a substituent of general formula R3R4R5N ± CH (R6) -CH2- wherein R3, R4, R5 and R6 independently of one another are hydrogen, alkyl groups having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and / or a carboxy function. In particular, X may be chosen from choline, serine or ethanolamine.

  According to an alternative embodiment, R1 and R2, independently of one another, are advantageously chosen from butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, caproleic acid, lauric acid, lauroleic acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, isostearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid. The glycerophospholipid may also be a mixture of compounds of general formula (XV). The glycerophospholipid suitable for the implementation of the invention may in particular comprise phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and / or phosphatidylserine. According to one embodiment, the glycerophospholipid advantageously comprises an ester of glycerol, unsaturated fatty acid, phosphoric acid and choline, also called phosphatidylcholine (PC). (XV) The glycerophospholipid suitable for the implementation of the invention may come from a lecithin. In particular, lecithin may comprise, for the most part, as glycerophospholipid, phosphatidylcholine. Phosphatidylcholine (PC) suitable for the implementation of the compositions according to the invention may be of natural or synthetic origin. The so-called natural PC can be obtained by extraction from animal or plant sources, such as soybean, sunflower, or eggs. Naturally occurring non-hydrogenated phosphatidylcholine, such as for example from soybean, generally contains as glycerol ester fatty acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, and optionally C20-C22 fatty acids. By synthetic phosphatidylcholine is meant in the sense of the present invention, phosphatidylcholine having at least one fatty acid distinct from those likely to be present in so-called natural PCs.

  Synthetic PC also refers to so-called natural modified PC such as partial hydrogenation, i.e. only a fraction of the double bonds present on the unsaturated fatty acids is maintained. Among the sources of phosphatidylcholine more or less purified suitable for the implementation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention, mention may be made of EMULMETIK 930 sold by the company LUCAS MEYER. The glycerophospholipid suitable for carrying out the present invention may be introduced into the composition in the form of a lecithin. This is generally obtained by lipid extraction using apolar solvents, from vegetable or animal fats. This lipid fraction usually comprises, for the most part, glycerophospholipids, including phosphatidylcholine or phosphatidylethanolamine. The lecithins suitable for the implementation of the present invention may be lecithins derived from soybean, sunflower, egg and / or mixtures thereof. Lecithins are usually supplied in dissolved form in fatty acids, triglycerides or other solvents, or in the form of powders or loaves. It is usually mixtures of lecithins, whose glycerophospholipid content in products as marketed, generally ranges from about at least 15% to at least about 95%. Advantageously, the lecithin used as raw material for the preparation of the composition according to the invention comprises at least 45% by weight, in particular at least 65% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight, in particular at least 85% by weight, and more particularly at least 95% by weight of glycerophospholipid relative to the total weight of lecithin. Among the lecithins that may be suitable for use in the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made of the lecithins sold under the references NATTERMANN PHOSPHOLIPID, PHOSPHOLIPON 80 and PHOSALE 75 by the company AMERICAN LECITHIN COMPANY, EPIKURON 145V, TOPCITHIN 300 EMULMETIK 930 and OVOTHIN 200 marketed by the company LUCAS MEYER. The glycerophospholipid may in particular be a non-hydrogenated glycerophospholipid, that is to say an ester obtained by reacting glycerol with at least one unsaturated fatty acid and phosphoric acid, said phosphoric acid being substituted with a compound chosen from alcohols. carrying an amine function, in particular a beta-amino alcohol. By unsaturated or unsaturated is meant the presence of at least one or more, double or triple bonds between two carbon atoms.

  The glycerophospholipid may in particular be phosphatidylcholine or lecithin. The phosphated surfactant may be chosen from trioleyl phosphate, the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and of ethylene glycol ether and of C12-C15 fatty alcohols (approximately 10 OE), potassium cetyl phosphate, cetyl phosphate, lecithin and mixtures thereof. The phosphate surfactant is advantageously a nonionic surfactant such as trioleyl phosphate, the mixture of triesters of phosphoric acid and ethylene glycol ether and C12-C15 fatty alcohols (about 10 0E). The phosphated surfactant may be present in the composition according to the invention at a content of between 0.1 and 30%, in particular between 0.1 and 10% and even between 0.5 and 50% by weight relative to the total weight. of the composition.

  According to a first variant, the composition according to the invention may combine at least trioleyl phosphate and a polyamide / polydimethylsiloxane. According to a second variant, the composition according to the invention combines at least trioleyl phosphate and a silicone polyamide, comprising at least one unit of formula (I) as defined above.

  The first composition may contain, in addition to the silicone polyamide and the phosphate surfactant, at least one oil, another silicone polymer, a coloring agent, a filler, an active agent and a mixture thereof. It advantageously contains a silicone polymer chosen from silicone resins. As an example of these silicone resins, mention may be made of: siloxysilicates which may be trimethylsiloxysilicate of formula [(CH 3) 3 X SiXO] XX (SiO 4 12) y (MQ units) in which x and y are integers ranging from 50 to 80, the polysilesquioxanes of formula (CH 3 SiO 3 12) x (units T) in which x is greater than 100 and at least one of the methyl radicals may be substituted by a group R as defined above, - polymethylsilsesquioxanes which are polysilsesquioxanes in which none of the methyl radicals is substituted by another group. Such polymethylsilsesquioxanes are described in US 5,246,694, the contents of which are incorporated by reference.

  As examples of commercially available polymethylsilsesquioxane resins, mention may be made of those sold: by the company Wacker under the reference Resin MK such as Belsil PMS MK: polymer comprising repeating units CH3SiO312 (T units), which can also comprise up to 1% by weight of units (CH3) 2SiO212 (D units) and having an average molecular weight of about 10,000, - by SHIN-ETSU under the references KR-220L which are composed of T units of formula CH3SiO312 and have Si-OH end groups (silanol), under the reference KR-242A which comprise 98% of T units and 2% of dimethyl D units and have Si-Ohou terminal groups still under the reference KR- 251 comprising 88% T units and 12% dimethyl D units and have Si-OH end groups.

  As siloxysilicate resins, there may be mentioned trimethylsiloxysilicate (TMS) resins optionally in the form of powders. Such resins are sold under the reference SR1000 by the company General Electric or under the reference TMS 803 by the company Wacker. Mention may also be made of timethylsiloxysilicate resins sold in a solvent such as cyclomethicone, sold under the name "KF-7312J" by the company Shin-Etsu, "DC 749", "DC 593" by the company Dow Corning.

  The first composition advantageously contains a trimethylsiloxysilicate resin, preferably in a ratio such that the proportion by mass of silicone polyamide / trimethylsiloxysilicate is between 1/3 and 3, for example Phenyl silicone compound. less phenyl silicone. By phenyl silicone is meant an organopolysiloxane substituted with at least one phenyl group. The phenyl silicone is preferably non-volatile. By non-volatile means an oil 10 whose vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure is non-zero and less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg ( 0.13 Pa). Preferably, the weight-average molecular weight of the phenyl silicone oil is between 500 and 10,000 g / mol. The silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates. The silicone oil may correspond to the formula: R R R R Si Si R R Si Si Where R R R R Si O

  1 R in which the R groups represent independently of each other a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, the silicone oil comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four, at least five or at least six. According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula ## STR1 ## in which the groups R represent, independently of one another, a methyl or a phenyl. Preferably in this formula, said organopolysiloxane comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five. Mixtures of the phenyl organopolysiloxanes described above can be used. By way of example, mention may be made of mixtures of triphenylated, tetra- or pentaphenylated organopolysiloxane. According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula Ph Ph Mei Si Si Si Si Me Ph Me Ph in which Me represents methyl, Ph represents phenyl. Such phenyl silicone is especially manufactured by Dow Corning under the reference Dow Corning 555 Cosmetic Fluid (INCI name: trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane). The reference Dow Corning 554 Cosmetic Fluid can also be used.

  According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula: ## STR1 ## in which Me represents methyl, y is between 1 and 1,000, and X represents -CH 2 -CH ( CH3) (Ph).

  According to another embodiment, the silicone oil corresponds to the formula ## STR1 ## in which -OR 'represents -O-SiMe 3, y is between 1 and 1000 and z is between 1 and 1000.

  The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from the phenyl silicones of formula (VI) below: ## STR1 ## in which - R 1 to R 10, independently of one another, are hydrocarbon radicals, saturated or unsaturated, linear, cyclic or branched, C 1 -C 30, - m, n, p and q are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 900, provided that the sum 'm + n + q' is different from O.

  Preferably, the sum 'm + n + q' is between 1 and 100. Preferably, the sum 'm + n + p + q' is between 1 and 900, more preferably between 1 and 800. Preferably, q is equal to 0.

  The phenyl silicone oil may be chosen from phenyl silicones of the following formula (VII): embedded image in which: R 1 to R 6, independently of each other, are cyclic or branched, linear or branched C1-C30 hydrocarbon radicals, - m, n and p are, independently of each other, integers between 0 and 100, provided that the sum 'n + m 'is between 1 and 100. Preferably, R1 to R6, independently of each other, represent a saturated, linear or branched, C1-C30, especially C1-C12, hydrocarbon-based radical, and in particular a methyl radical. ethyl, propyl or butyl. In particular, R1 to R6 may be identical, and may furthermore be a methyl radical.

  Preferably, one can have m = 1 or 2 or 3, and / or n = 0 and / or p = 0 or 1, in formula (VII). It is possible to use a phenyl silicone oil of formula (VI) having a viscosity at 25 ° C. of between 5 and 1500 mm 2 / s (ie 5 to 1500 cSt), preferably having a viscosity of between 5 and 1000 mm 2 / s (ie at 1000 cSt). As phenylated phenylated oil of formula (VII), it is possible especially to use phenyltrimethicones such as DC556 from Dow Corning (22.5 cSt), Silbione 70663V30 from Rhône Poulenc (28 cSt), or diphenyldimethicones such as oils Belsil, including Belsil PDM1000 (1000cSt), Belsil PDM 200 (200 cSt) and Belsil PDM 20 10 (20cSt) from Wacker. The values in parentheses represent the viscosities at 25 ° C. The non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from silicones of formula: ## STR2 ##

R6_ R2 n p in which:

  R 1, R 2, R 5 and R 6 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms,

  R3 and R4 are, together or separately, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, or an aryl radical,

  X is an alkyl radical having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyl radical or a vinyl radical,

  wherein n and p are selected so as to impart to the oil a molecular weight of less than 200,000 g / mol, preferably less than 150,000 g / mol and more preferably less than 100,000 g / mol. The phenyl silicone oil of the second composition is advantageously chosen in such a way that it improves at least one cosmetic property of the first composition,

  When it is applied alone to said keratinous material. The second composition may especially improve the brightness of the first composition without reducing its level of resistance. The second composition may be chosen so that it does not diminish the strength of the first composition, while improving the gloss of the makeup result. The first composition and / or the second composition may be chosen so that the product, once applied to the keratin materials, has satisfactory holding and gloss properties. Non-transfer The first composition and / or the second composition can also be chosen so that the product, once applied to the keratin materials, has satisfactory non-transfer properties. In particular, the first composition preferably has a transfer index of less than 35, preferably less than or equal to 30, preferably less than or equal to 20, preferably less than or equal to 15, preferably less than or equal to 10, of preferably, less than or equal to 5, and more preferably less than or equal to 2 in 100.

  The second composition may be chosen such that the transfer index of the product of the invention is less than or equal to 35, preferably less than or equal to 30, preferably less than or equal to 20, preferably less than or equal to 15, preferably less than or equal to 10, preferably less than or equal to 5. The transfer index can be measured according to the following method.

  A support (rectangle of 40 mm × 70 mm and thickness 3 mm) of adhesive polyethylene foam is preheated on one of the faces having a density of 33 kg / m3 (sold under the name RE40X70EP3 from the company JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND). ) on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40 C so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33 C 1 C.

  While leaving the support on the hot plate, the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support by spreading it with a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 m and then left dry for 30 minutes.

  After drying, the support is adhered by its adhesive side on an anvil with a diameter of 20 mm and provided with a screw thread. The support / deposit assembly is then cut with a punch having a diameter of 18 mm. The anvil is then screwed onto a press 20 (IMADA SV-2 MANUAL STATIF from SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from SOMECO).

  A white photocopy paper of 80 g / m2 is placed on the base of the press and the support / deposit assembly is pressed on the paper at a pressure of 2.5 kg for 30 seconds. After removal of the carrier / deposit assembly, a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper. The color of the transferred deposit is then measured on the paper using a MINOLTA CR300 colorimeter, the color being characterized by the colorimetric parameters L *, a *, b *. The colorimetric parameters L * 0, a * 0, b * o of the color of the bare paper used are determined.

  The color difference AE1 is then determined between the color of the transferred deposit with respect to the color of the bare paper by the following relation.

  AE1 = (L * _Lo *) 2 + (a * - ao *) 2 + (b * - bo *) 2 Moreover, a total transfer reference is prepared by applying the composition directly to a paper identical to that used previously at room temperature (25 ° C.), spreading the composition with the aid of a brush and to obtain a deposit of the composition of approximately 15 μm and then allowed to dry for 30 minutes at room temperature (25 ° C.) . After drying, the colorimetric parameters L * ', a *', b * 'of the color of the deposit placed on the paper, corresponding to the total transfer reference color, are measured directly. The colorimetric parameters L * '0, a *' 0, b * '0 of the color of the bare paper used are determined.

  The color difference AE2 between the total transfer reference color and the color of the bare paper is then determined by the following relationship. AE2 = (L *, _ L0 *,) 2 + (a *, - ao *,) 2 + (b *, - bo *,) 2 The transfer of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio: 0 X AE1 / AE2

  The measurement is carried out on 4 supports in succession and the transfer value corresponds to the average of the 4 measurements obtained with the 4 supports.

  The first composition and / or the second composition can also be chosen so that the product, once applied to the keratin materials, has satisfactory holding properties.

  In particular, the first composition preferably has a resistance index greater than or equal to 80%, preferably greater than or equal to 85%, preferably less than or equal to 90%, preferably greater than or equal to 95%.

  The second composition may be chosen such that the strength of the product is greater than or equal to 80%, preferably greater than or equal to 85%, preferably less than or equal to 90%, preferably greater than or equal to 95%.

  The resistance index of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention is determined according to the measurement protocol described hereinafter.

  A support (rectangle 40 mm × 70 mm) made of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on a polyethylene film sold under the name BLENDERME ref FHSO00-55113 by the company 3M Santé) is prepared on a layer of polyethylene foam 25 adhesive on the opposite side to that on which is fixed the plaster (layer of foam sold under the name RE40X70EP3 from the company JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND).

  Using a MINOLTA CR 300 colorimeter, the color L * pa * Ob * 0 of the support is measured on the acrylic coating side.

  The support thus prepared is preheated on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40.degree. C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33.degree. C. While leaving the support on the heating plate, the composition over the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (that is to say on the surface of the acrylic coating) by spreading it with the aid of a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 m then let it dry for 10 minutes.

  After drying, the color L * a * b * of the film thus obtained is measured.

  The color difference AE1 is then determined between the color of the film with respect to the color of the bare substrate by the following relation. AE1 = (L * _LO *) 2 + (a * - ao *) 2 + (b * - bo *) 2 The support is then adhered by its adhesive side (adhesive side of the foam layer) 15 on an anvil d a diameter of 20 mm and provided with a screw thread. A test piece of the support / deposit assembly is then cut using a punch with a diameter of 18 mm. The anvil is then screwed onto a press (MANUAL STATIF IMADA SV-2 from SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from SOMECO).

  On a 80 g / m2 white photocopy paper, draw a strip 33 mm wide and 29.7 cm long, draw a first line 2 cm from the edge of the sheet, and then a second dash at 5 cm. cm from the edge of the sheet, the first and second lines thus delimiting a box on the strip; then a first mark and a second mark are placed in the band respectively at the 8 cm and 16 cm marks of the second line. 20 pl of water are placed on the first mark and on the second mark 10 pl of refined sunflower oil (sold by the company LESIEUR).

  The white paper is placed on the base of the press and the test specimen placed on the square of the paper web is pressed at a pressure of about 300 g / cm 2 exerted for 30 seconds. Then the press is raised and the test piece is placed again just after the second line (hence beside the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 is again made and is moved rectilinearly on contact. made the paper with a speed of 1 cm / s, over the entire length of the strip so that the specimen passes through the water and oil deposits. After removal of the test piece, a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper. The color L * ', a *', b * 'of the deposit remained on the specimen.

  The color difference AE2 is then determined between the color of the deposit remaining on the specimen relative to the color of the bare support by the following relation. AE2 = (L * 'L0 *) 2 + (a *' - a0 *) 2 + (b * '_ b0 *) 2 The strength index of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio: 100 X AE2 / AE 1

  The measurement is carried out on 6 supports in succession and the transfer value corresponds to the average of the 6 measurements obtained with the 6 supports. The first and / or second composition may comprise a non-volatile oil.

  By non-volatile oil is meant any medium having a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, non-zero less than 0.02 mmHg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10-3 mmHg (0 , 13 Pa).

  The non-volatile oil may be selected from polyalkylsiloxanes, polyarylsiloxanes, polyalkylarylsiloxanes and mixtures thereof. The non-volatile silicone oil may be chosen from: non-volatile, linear or branched polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS); polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; The polyalkylsiloxanes according to the invention include polydimethylsiloxanes, (polydimethylsiloxane) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) siloxanes, poly (dimethylsiloxane) (diphenyl) (methylvinylsiloxane) copolymers, and mixtures thereof. volatile can also be a hydrocarbon oil.

  The first composition may optionally contain a volatile oil. The second composition preferably contains a small proportion of volatile oil, preferably it does not contain any.

  As volatile oils that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of linear or cyclic silicone oils having a viscosity at room temperature of less than 8 cSt and in particular having from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclo-tetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyldisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof. As another volatile oil that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof, and in particular branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes such as isoalkanes (also known as isoparaffins) with C 8 -C 16 isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters such as isohexyl neo-pentanoate and mixtures thereof. Preferably, isododecane (permetyls 99 A), isoparaffins C8-C16 as isopar L, E, G or H, their mixtures, optionally combined with decamethyl tetrasiloxane or cyclopentasiloxane.

  In general, the amount of volatile oil is used in an amount sufficient to improve the spreading and holding qualities of the composition. This amount will be adapted by the skilled person depending on the intensity of the desired properties.

  The second composition comprises at least one solid fatty substance, such as a wax, or a pasty substance. The first composition may comprise at least one solid fatty substance, such as a wax, or a pasty substance. Preferably, the first composition contains at least one wax. The waxes may be present in an amount of from 0.5 to 30% by weight in the composition and better still from 5 to 20%, preferably from 5 to 15%, of the composition. It is preferred in the context of the present invention to linear hydrocarbon waxes. Their melting point is advantageously greater than 35 ° C., for example greater than 55 ° C., preferably greater than 80 ° C. The linear hydrocarbon waxes are advantageously chosen from substituted linear alkanes, unsubstituted linear alkanes and linear unsubstituted alkenes. substituted linear alkenes, an unsubstituted compound being solely composed of carbon and hydrogen. The substituents mentioned above do not contain carbon atoms. The linear hydrocarbon waxes include polymers and copolymers of ethylene, with a molecular weight of between 400 and 800, for example Polywax 500 or Polywax 400 marketed by New Phase Technologies. Linear hydrocarbon waxes include linear paraffin waxes, such as S & P 206, S & P 173 and Strahl & Pitsch S & P 434 paraffins. Linear hydrocarbon waxes include long-chain linear alcohols, such as products comprising a blend of polyethylene and alcohols having 20 to 50 carbon atoms, including Performacol 425 or Performacol 550 (20/80 blend) marketed by New Phase Technologies.

  The second composition may contain a fatty substance of pasty consistency. It preferably contains little wax, and is preferably free of waxes. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a lipophilic fatty compound having a reversible solid / liquid state change and comprising at a temperature of 23 ° C. a liquid fraction and a solid fraction.

  The pasty compound is preferably chosen from synthetic compounds and compounds of plant origin. A pasty compound can be obtained synthetically from starting materials of plant origin.

  The pasty compound is advantageously chosen from lanolin and its derivatives, silicone compounds which may or may not be polymeric fluorinated compounds, or vinyl polymers, in particular: homopolymers of olefins; copolymers of olefins; homopolymers and copolymers of hydrogenated dienes; linear or branched oligomers, homo or copolymers of alkyl (meth) acrylates having preferably a C8-C30 alkyl group; homopolymers and copolymers of vinyl esters having C8-C30 alkyl groups; homo and copolymer oligomers; vinyl ethers having C8-C30 alkyl groups,

  liposoluble polyethers resulting from the polyetherification between one or more C2-C100, preferably C2-050, diols, and polyesters, and mixtures thereof.

  The pasty compound is preferably polymer, in particular hydrocarbon-based. A preferred silicone and fluoro pasty compound is polymethyl trifluoropropyl methylalkyl dimethylsiloxane, manufactured under the name X22-1088 by SHIN ETSU.

  Among the liposoluble polyethers, copolymers of ethylene oxide and / or propylene oxide with long-chain C6-C30 alkylene oxides are preferred, more preferably such as the weight ratio of ethylene oxide. oxide and / or propylene oxide with alkylene oxide in the copolymer is from 5:95 to 70:30. In this family, mention will in particular be made of copolymers such as long-chain alkylene oxides are arranged in blocks having an average molecular weight of 1,000 to 10,000, for example a polyoxyethylene / polydodecyl glycol block copolymer such as dodecanediol ethers (22 mol ) and polyethylene glycol (45 EO) sold under the trademark ELFACOS ST9 by Akzo Nobel.

  Among the esters, the esters of an oligomeric glycerol, in particular the diglycerol esters, in particular the condensates of adipic acid and of glycerol, for which part of the hydroxyl groups of the glycerols have reacted with a mixture of fatty acids such as stearic acid, capric acid, stearic acid and isostearic acid and 12-hydroxystearic acid, especially in the image of those marketed under the trademark Softisan 649 by the company Sasol 35 - phytosterol esters; pentaerythritol esters; esters formed from at least one alcohol, at least one of the alcohols being a Guerbet alcohol and a diacid dimer formed from at least one an unsaturated fatty acid, such as the tall oil fatty acid dimer ester comprising 36 carbon atoms and a mixture of i) Guerbet alcohols comprising 32 carbon atoms and ii) behenyl alcohol; the dimer ester of linoleic acid and a mixture of two Guerbet alcohols, 2-tetradecyl-octadecanol (32 carbon atoms) and 2-hexadecyl-eicosanol (36 carbon atoms). the non-crosslinked polyesters resulting from the polycondensation between a linear or branched C 4 -C 50 dicarboxylic acid or polycarboxylic acid and a C 2 -C 50 diol or polyol, the polyesters which result from the esterification, with a polycarboxylic acid, an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester such as Risocast DA-L and Risocast DA-H marketed by the Japanese company KOKYU ALCOHOL KOGYO, which are esters resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with dilinoleic acid or isostearic acid - aliphatic ester esters resulting from the esterification of an aliphatic hydroxycarboxylic acid ester with an aliphatic carboxylic acid; (Salacos HCIS (V) -L sold by the company Nishing Oil) The aliphatic carboxylic acid comprises from 4 to 30 and preferably from 8 to 30 carbon atoms. It is preferably selected from hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, 2-ethyl hexanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, acid tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, hexydecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, isostearic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, acid isoarachidic acid, octyldodecanoic acid, henicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, and mixtures thereof. The aliphatic carboxylic acid is preferably branched. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is advantageously derived from a hydroxylated aliphatic carboxylic acid having from 2 to 40 carbon atoms, preferably from 10 to 34 carbon atoms and better still from 12 to 28 carbon atoms, and from 1 to to 20 hydroxyl groups, preferably 1 to 10 hydroxyl groups and more preferably 1 to 6 hydroxyl groups. The aliphatic hydroxy carboxylic acid ester is chosen from: a) partial or total esters of saturated linear monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; b) partial or total esters of unsaturated monohydroxylated aliphatic monocarboxylic acids; c) partial or total esters of saturated monohydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; d) partial or total esters of saturated polyhydroxylated aliphatic polycarboxylic acids; e) the partial or total esters of C2 to C16 aliphatic polyols reacted with a mono or polyhydroxylated aliphatic mono or poly carboxylic acid, and mixtures thereof.

  The aliphatic ester esters are advantageously chosen from: the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions of 1 to 1 (1/1) or oil monoisostearate hydrogenated castor oil, - the ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 2 (1/2) or hydrogenated castor oil diisostearate, - ester resulting from the esterification reaction of hydrogenated castor oil with isostearic acid in proportions 1 to 3 (1/3) or hydrogenated castor oil triisostearate, and mixtures thereof.

  Among the vinyl polymers, mention may be made of vinyl polylaurate.

  The pasty compound is preferably 0.5 to 99%, more preferably 1 to 60%, more preferably 2 to 30% and more preferably 5 to 15% by weight of the composition.

  The mass ratio between the phenyl silicone and the pasty compound is advantageously between 1 to 100, preferably between 0.2 and 10, preferably between 0.5 and 8. The first and / or second composition of the cosmetic product according to US Pat. The invention may contain a coloring agent which may be selected from water-soluble or fat-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof. By pigments, it is necessary to understand white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in the liquid organic phase, intended to color and / or opacify the first composition. By nacres, it is necessary to understand iridescent particles, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized, insoluble in the medium of the first composition. By dyes, it is necessary to understand generally organic compounds soluble in fatty substances such as oils or in a hydroalcoholic phase.

  The composition according to the invention may further comprise one or more dyestuffs chosen from water-soluble dyes and pulverulent dyestuffs such as pigments, nacres and flakes well known to those skilled in the art. The dyestuffs may be present in the composition in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the weight of the composition, preferably from 0.01% to 30% by weight.

  The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium oxide or cerium oxides, and oxides of zinc, iron (black, yellow or red) or chromium, the violet of manganese, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue, metal powders such as aluminum powder, copper powder. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

  Mention may also be made of effect pigments such as particles comprising an organic or inorganic, natural or synthetic substrate, for example glass, acrylic resins, polyester, polyurethane, polyethylene terephthalate, ceramics or aluminas, said substrate being covered or not with metallic substances such as aluminum, gold, silver, platinum, copper, bronze, or metal oxides such as titanium dioxide, iron oxide, chromium oxide and their mixtures.

  The pearlescent pigments may be chosen from mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with iron oxides, titanium mica coated with, inter alia, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It is also possible to use interferential pigments, in particular liquid crystal or multilayer pigments.

  The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue.

  The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one filler, especially in a content ranging from 0.01% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight. weight. By fillers, it is necessary to include particles of any form, colorless or white, mineral or synthetic, insoluble in the medium of the composition regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. The fillers can be mineral or organic of any shape, platelet, spherical or oblong, irrespective of the crystallographic form (for example sheet, cubic, hexagonal, orthorhombic, etc.). Mention may be made of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, polyamide (nylon) powders (Orgasol from Atochem), poly-B-alanine and polyethylene, tetrafluoroethylene polymer powders (Teflon), lauroyl-lysine, starch, boron nitride, polymeric hollow microspheres such as those of polyvinylidene chloride / acrylonitrile such as Expancel (Nobel Industrie), copolymers of acrylic acid (Polytrap Dow Corning) and Silicone resin microbeads (Toshiba Tospearls, for example), elastomeric polyorganosiloxane particles, precipitated calcium carbonate, magnesium carbonate and hydrocarbonate, hydroxyapatite, hollow silica microspheres (Silica Beads) of Maprecos), glass or ceramic microcapsules, metal soaps derived from organic carboxylic acids containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms, preferably from 12 to 18 carbon atoms, for example zinc, magnesium or lithium arate, zinc laurate, magnesium myristate.

  The first and / or second composition of the invention may, in addition, contain one or more cosmetic or dermatological active agents such as those conventionally used. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents that may be used in the composition of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers, vitamins, essential fatty acids, sphingolipids and sunscreens. These active agents are used in amounts customary to those skilled in the art and especially at concentrations of 0 to 20% and in particular from 0.001 to 15% of the total weight of the first or second composition. The composition may further comprise any other additive commonly used in such compositions, such as water, antioxidants, fragrances, preservatives and essential oils.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition envisaged.

  The compositions of the product may be in the form of a cast product and for example in the form of a stick or stick, or in the form of a cup used for direct contact or sponge. In particular, they find an application as a cast foundation, blush or cast eyelid, lipstick, base or lip care balm, concealer product, nail polish. They may also be in the form of a soft paste or gel, cream more or less fluid, or liquid packed in a tube.

  The compositions of the product according to the invention may constitute in particular a cosmetic composition for the care of the face, the neck, the hands or the body (for example care cream, sun oil, body gel), a make-up composition ( for example makeup gel, cream, stick) or an artificial tanning composition or skin protection.

  The compositions of the product according to the invention may be in the form of a skin care composition and / or superficial body growths or in the form of a sunscreen composition, personal hygiene, especially in the form of deodorant. They are then in particular in non-colored form. They can then be used as a skin care base, skin dander or lips (lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind, care cream for the skin, nails or skin. hair).

  By cosmetically acceptable is meant in the sense of the invention a composition of appearance, smell and pleasant touch.

  Each composition of the product according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application and especially in the form of an oily or aqueous solution, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-water emulsion. or water-in-oil, a multiple emulsion, an oil dispersion in water through vesicles, the vesicles being located at the oil / water interface, or a powder. Each composition can be fluid or solid.

  According to one mode of implementation, the first or the second composition, or both, are of continuous fat phase and preferably in anhydrous form and may contain less than 5% of water, and even more preferably less than 1% of water. relative to the total weight of the first or second composition.

  Each first and second composition may have the appearance of a lotion, a cream, an ointment, a soft paste, an ointment, a solid cast or molded and especially stick or cup or compacted solid.

  Each composition can be packaged separately in one and the same packaging article, for example in a bi-compartmented pen, the base composition being delivered by one end of the pen and the composition of the top being delivered by the other end of the pen, each end being closed particularly tightly by a cap. Alternatively, each of the compositions may be packaged in a different packaging article.

  Preferably, the composition which is applied in the first layer is in liquid or pasty form, which is highly desirable in the case of a lipstick or eyeliner.

  The product according to the invention can be advantageously used for the makeup of the skin and / or lips and / or integuments according to the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the product of the invention may be in the form of a solid foundation, lipstick or paste, concealer, or eye contour, eyeliner, mascara, derm eye shadow, body make-up product or a skin-coloring product.

  Advantageously, the second composition has care, gloss or transparency properties. The invention further relates to a lip product, a varnish, a mascara, a foundation, a tattoo, a blush or an eyeshadow comprising first and second compositions as described above.

  The compositions of the product of the invention can be obtained by heating the various constituents to the melting temperature of the highest waxes, and then pouring the molten mixture into a mold (cup or thimble). They can also be obtained by extrusion as described in application EP-A-0 667 146.

  The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples. Percentages are percentages by weight.

  Example: Lipsticks The percentages are percentages by weight.

  Example 1: First composition The compositions of the examples are obtained according to the following protocol. Firstly, the fillers and the pigments are ground in part of the oily phase. The remainder of the fat-soluble ingredients and the surfactant are then mixed at a temperature of the order of 100 ° C. The grindstone or the pre-dispersed active ingredients are then added to the oily phase. Finally, the composition is poured into a mold and the whole is allowed to cool in a freezer for about an hour. atIzItuk ~ I: ETH ~~~ fC ~~ SI 1E JMUES-- OA 1: 'TE' 0 02O:: eROIPYLEN NATF TAIP: H: E: NWL: P: H PHATE:

  .................................................. ........ DTD: ........................................ EXAMPLE 2A and 2B: Second Composition TRIMETHYL PENTAPHENYL TRISILOXANE (DOW CORNING PH-1555 HRI COSMETIC FLUID) bis-diglyceryl polyacyladipate-2 (Softisan 649) 1 Vinyl Polylaurate (MEXOMERE PP from Chimex..DTD: ................................. ......................................... DTD: ....... ............................................... ... DTD: ................................................ .......................... DTD: ...................... ................................. OZOKERITE (OZOKERITE WAX SP 1020 P) 6.3 6.3 BEESWAX 112.7 2.7 The application topcoat 2B compared with topcoat 2A, on the basecoat of example 1 gives a thicker, brighter deposit with improved lip contour ... DTD: 10 The application of topcoat 2B on the composition of example 1 gives a product more pleasant to the application, in particular more slippery and more homogeneous. The addition of phosphated surfactant makes it possible to improve the cosmetic without modifying the performance of the product. IR: ON: OX IDES a3 ALMINA TITANI {f DE ........................... YELLOW LAKE ISOD ANE sp100 NYL LAII: ROY: L iE f OY: LOTETF: SORT ETH LSILOX SILI 3LUE t TEAHI IMONIU 0 <3; ALCHOL SI LICA: FOLY THY 2 k mocl; 291 QQ ,, 28 38 feg ~ ev a, i-ce

Claims (32)

  1. Cosmetic makeup product for keratin materials, in particular lips, comprising a first and a second composition, packaged in separate containers, the first composition containing a phosphate surfactant and a silicone polyamide, and the second composition distinct from the first comprising a phenyl silicone oil and a solid fatty substance. 10   2. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, having a silicone copolymer content representing from 0.5 to 70%, preferably from 5 to 50% and more preferably from 10 to 45% of the total weight of the composition. 15   3. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the copolymer comprises at least one of the general formula I: ## STR2 ## in which: G 'represents C (O) when G is -C (O) -NH-Y-NH-, and G 'is -NH- when G is -NH-C (O) -YC (O) -2) R4, R5, R6 and R7 , identical or different, represent a group chosen from: - saturated or unsaturated, linear, branched or cyclic hydrocarbon groups, C, to C40, which may contain in their chain one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen, and may be substituted in part or totally by fluorine atoms, - aryl groups in CO to C10, optionally substituted by one or more C 1 to C 4 alkyl groups, - the polyorganosiloxane chains containing or not a or several oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, 3) the X, identical or different, represent an alkylene di-yl, lin branched or branched at C to C30, which may contain in its chain one or more oxygen and / or nitrogen atoms,   4) Y is a divalent linear or branched alkylene, arylene, cycloalkylene, alkylarylene or arylalkylene, saturated or unsaturated, C 1 -C 50, group which may comprise one or more oxygen, sulfur and / or nitrogen atoms, and or substitute one of the following atoms or groups of atoms: fluorine, hydroxy, C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl, C 1 -C 40 alkyl, C 5 -C 8 aryl, phenyl optionally substituted with 1 to 3 groups C 1 to C 3 alkyl, C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl and C 1 to C 6 alkylamino, or   (5) Y represents a group corresponding to the formula: R 8 in which T represents a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 3 to C 24 trivalent or tetravalent hydrocarbon group optionally substituted with a polyorganosiloxane chain, and which may contain one or more selected atoms; of 0, N and S, or T represents a trivalent atom selected from N, P and Al, and - R8 represents a linear or branched C5-C5 alkyl group, or a polyorganosiloxane chain, which may comprise one or more ester groups amide, urethane, thiocarbamate, urea, thiourea and / or sulfonamide which may or may not be bound to another polymer chain,   6) n is an integer from 2 to 500, preferably from 2 to 200, and m is an integer from 1 to 1000, preferably from 1 to 700 and more preferably from 6 to 200. 4. Product according to the preceding claim, wherein X and / or Y represent an alkylene group containing in its alkylene part at least one of the following elements 1) 1 to 5 amide groups, urea, urethane, or carbamate, 2) a cycloalkyl group. C5 or C6, and 3) a phenylene group optionally substituted with 1 to 3 identical or different C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups, and / or substituted by at least one member selected from the group consisting of: a hydroxy group, a group C 3 -C 8 cycloalkyl; one to three C 1 -C 40 alkyl groups; one phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three C 1 -C 3 alkyl groups; -C 1 to C 3 hydroxyalkyl; and a C to C aminoalkyl group; , at C6. 5. The product according to claim 3, wherein R4, R5, R6 and R7 represent, independently, a linear or branched C1-C40 alkyl group, preferably a CH3, C2H5, n-group. C3H, or isopropyl, a polyorganosiloxane chain or a phenyl group optionally substituted with one to three methyl or ethyl groups. 6. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising at least one polydimethylsiloxane block polymer of general formula (I) as defined in claim 3 and having an index m with a value greater than 50, in particular greater than 75.   7. Product according to the preceding claim, wherein the polymer preferably has a weight average molecular weight ranging from 50,000 to 500,000 g / mol.   8. A product according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the phosphate surfactant is selected from: (1) compounds of formula (XIV): R, O = P R, R 3 (XIV) with R 1, R 2 and R3, which are identical or different, chosen from: a group M with M representing an alkali metal, such as Na, Li, K, a group OR4, in which R4 represents a linear, branched, cyclic or aromatic C5-C40 alkyl group an OH group and an oxyethylenated (OCH2CH2) n (OCH2CHCH3) mOR group with R representing a hydrogen atom or a C1-C20 linear or branched alkyl group and n and m being integers, with n varying; from 1 to 50 and m ranging from 0 to 50, (2) glycerophospholipids, and (3) mixtures thereof. 20   9. Product according to the preceding claim wherein R1, R2 and R3 are identical.   10. Product according to claim 8 or 9 wherein at least one, in particular two or all of the radicals R1, R2 and / or R3 are (s) a linear or branched alkyl group, C10 to C30, or even C18 .   11. Product according to any one of claims 8 to 10, wherein R is a C12-C15 alkyl radical.   The product of any one of claims 8 to 11, wherein n = 10 and / or m = 0.   13. A product according to any one of claims 8 to 12, wherein the phosphate surfactant comprises trioleyl phosphate, tri-C12-15 pareth-10 phosphate, or potassium cetyl phosphate.   The product of claims 8 to 13, wherein the phosphate surfactant comprises trioleyl phosphate.   15. The product according to claim 8, wherein the glycerophospholipid is defined according to the following general formula (XV): ## STR2 ## in which: R 1 and R 2 represent , independently of one another, a fatty acid comprising from 4 to 24 carbon atoms, saturated or unsaturated, where appropriate branched, and capable of being substituted with one or more hydroxyl and / or amine functions, and X represents a substituent of the general formula R3R4R5N ± CH (R6) -CH2- in which R3, R4, R5 and R6 represent, independently of one another, hydrogen, alkyl groups comprising from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; carbon, and / or a carboxy function. 15   16. Product according to the preceding claim, in which R 1 and R 2, independently of one another, are chosen from butyric acid, caproic acid, caprylic acid, capric acid, acid and the like. caproleic acid, lauric acid, lauroleic acid, myristic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, acid linolenic acid, arachidic acid, isostearic acid, dihydroxystearic acid and ricinoleic acid.   17. The product of claim 15 or 16, wherein X is selected from choline, to serine and / or ethanolamine.   The product of any one of claims 15 to 17, wherein the glycerophospholipid comprises phosphatidylcholine, phosphatidylethanolamine and / or phosphatidylserine.   19. Product according to the preceding claim, wherein the glycerophospholipid is lecithin.   20. The product of any of the preceding claims comprising a nonionic phosphate surfactant.   21. Product according to any one of the preceding claims, comprising from 0.1 and 30% in particular between 0.1 and 10% or even between 0.5 and 5% by weight of phosphate surfactant relative to the total weight of the composition.   22. The product according to claim 1, wherein the second composition comprises a phenyl silicone oil of formula: methyl or phenyl.   23. Product according to one of claims 1 to 21, characterized in that the second composition comprises a phenyl silicone oil of formula RR R R Si Si O Si O Si RRRR s in which the groups R represent independently of each other a methyl or a phenyl.   24. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises a silicone oil which comprises at least three phenyl groups, for example at least four or at least five   25. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises a silicone oil corresponding to an oil whose INCI name is trimethyl pentaphenyl trisiloxane.   26. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises a solid fatty compound selected from waxes.   27. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises a solid fatty compound selected from pasty.   28. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises a solid fatty compound selected from polyvinyls. 25   29. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition comprises a solid fatty compound selected from vinyl polylaurates. 29. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition and / or the second composition contains a coloring agent chosen from liposoluble dyes, water-soluble dyes, pigments, pearlescent agents and mixtures thereof.   30. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the first composition contains less than 10% by weight of water, preferably less than 4%.   31. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the second composition contains less than 10% by weight of water, preferably less than 4%.   32. Product according to one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of a lipstick.