FR2908640A1 - Cosmetic composition, useful for make up of keratinous matter, comprises multi-layer interferential pigment, in aqueous/anhydrous medium, conferring a color variation on application to the composition - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition having coverage of >= 25, preferably 30, comprises at least a multi-layer interferential pigment, in aqueous medium or anhydrous medium, where the pigments confer a color variation (delta E) of >= 5 on application to the composition. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process of make-up of the keratinous matters, comprising applying the composition on the keratinous matter; and (2) a conditioning set comprising the composition and manual allowing to user information about color of the composition after application.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and more

  especially those intended for the makeup of keratin materials. BACKGROUND It is known to introduce diffusing pigments into makeup compositions to produce colors by a phenomenon of absorption of light by specific chromophores. To these diffusing pigments, which are necessary to benefit from a continuous and sufficiently covering colored background, may be added effect particles (s) to create, for example, points of gloss or impart a pearlescent appearance. However, the intensity of the color produced by these compositions may be insufficient to lead to a completely satisfactory result. Multilayer interference pigments, comprising a stack of layers whose refractive indices and thicknesses are suitably selected to generate a color by an interference phenomenon, make it possible to produce a greater color intensity than the diffusing pigments above. . To the knowledge of the inventor, in commercially available compositions, with the exception of powders, these multilayer interference pigments are employed at a mass concentration not exceeding 5%. It is moreover known by CHRYSALIDE brand eyeshadows from LANCAME to confer both coverage and color intensity by means of a make-up involving a first act of depositing on the keratin materials a base layer of black color containing a diffusing pigment providing coverage and then depositing by a second gesture on this base layer a composition providing color through a multilayer interference pigment. Without the base layer, the covering layer is almost invisible because it is not covering and without color. The use of two successive applications complicates makeup and makes packaging more expensive. 30 2908640 2 Abstract There is a need to benefit from a composition capable of providing coverage and producing a relatively saturated color, in order to be able to obtain in a single gesture a makeup that is both covering and colored. Furthermore, it is desirable to benefit from cosmetic compositions intended for the makeup of keratin materials which present new effects that are likely to attract consumers, without these new effects occurring to the detriment of the quality of the makeup obtained. The invention aims in particular to meet all or part of the needs identified above. The subject of the present invention is, according to one of its aspects, a cosmetic composition with a coverage of greater than or equal to 25, better 30, comprising, in an aqueous cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition according to another of its aspects, a cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 25, better 30, comprising, in a medium cosmetically acceptable anhydrous, at least one multilayer interference pigment, and in a content conferring on the composition a color variation AE of the composition at application greater than or equal to 5. The color after application is determined for the purposes of the calculation of AE after spreading the composition on a contrast map, as for measuring the coverage. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 25, better 30, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition a color variation AE at application greater than or equal to 5, the multilayer interference pigment producing a color of dominant wavelength outside the range from 580 nm to 650 nm.

  The coverage of the composition may be due, if necessary, only to the content of interferential pigment (s) multilayer. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 25, better 30, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring the composition has a color variation AE at application greater than or equal to 5, the color of the composition in the mass being white. According to the compositions, the difference AE can be for example between 5 and 30, especially greater than any integer value in this range. The coverage may be between 30 and 70, in particular greater than any integer value in this range, for example greater than or equal to 40. In the multilayer interference pigments, the production of the color by the interference phenomenon is in competition. with the production of color by the phenomenon of absorption by the surface layer of the pigment. Thus, when the pigment concentration increases sufficiently, the color produced by the interference phenomenon decreases in favor of that produced by absorption. The invention, by exploiting this property, makes it possible to observe a color variation from the composition to the application, which confers a playful aspect to the use. The invention also offers new possibilities in the marketing of cosmetic compositions, allowing to play at the packaging level on this color variation before and after application. The mass content of multilayer interference pigment can range from 7 to 20%, more preferably 8 to 15%, especially in the case of a non-pulverulent composition, for example liquid or cast. For a powdery, free or compact composition, the content of multilayer interference pigment is, for example, from 40 to 95%, more preferably 50 to 80%. The color of the composition in the mass may be white, that is to say achromatic in the sense of the CIE. The composition, by weight, may have a whiteness index greater than or equal to 40. The composition may not comprise any other coloring agent other than the multilayer interference pigment or pigments. The multi-layer interference pigment may comprise at least four layers, for example. The multilayer interference pigment may comprise a substrate made of a transparent material. The multilayer interference pigment may comprise a substrate of a more or less rough material, which may make it possible to impart more or less gloss to the composition. The substrate is for example chosen from natural mica, relatively rough, synthetic mica, alumina, silica or glass or metal for a smoother surface. In examples, the composition comprises more than 30% by weight total oil (s). In examples, the composition comprises more than 10% by weight of total wax (es). Charges The cosmetic composition may comprise fillers. By fillers are meant particles of any form insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. These fillers can serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. By way of example of fillers, mention may be made, inter alia, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, and polyamide powders (Nylon or Orgasol from Atochem). The content of charges will be chosen so as not to unduly hamper the desired result. The composition may comprise two multilayer interference pigments having layers of the same materials, at least one layer of a pigment having a different thickness of a corresponding layer of the other pigment, so as to produce different colors. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a non-pulverulent cosmetic composition, for example liquid (at 25 ° C.) or cast, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: between 7% and 20%, better 8 to 15% by weight, in total, of one or more multilayer interference pigments having a mineral substrate, for example silica, mica, alumina, glass or metal. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a pulverulent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: between 40 and 95%, better still 40 and 80% by weight, in total, of one or several multilayer interference pigments having a mineral substrate, for example silica, mica, glass alumina or metal. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a packaging unit comprising: a composition as defined above; means for informing the user of the color of the composition after application to keratinous substances (lips, skin, eyelashes, eyebrows, hair, nails). This may be for example an ink or varnish printing, a thin layer of composition or a molding or overmolding of a material incorporating the multilayer interference or pigments. Measurement of Coverage Liquid Compositions (at 25 ° C) By liquid composition is meant a composition whose viscosity can be measured. A liquid composition can flow under the effect of its own weight. The coverage of the compositions is measured at a finite thickness of 50 μm, the liquid compositions being, for example, compositions for application to the lips, especially liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, nail polishes, eye shadows, liquid foundations, mascaras and other liquid make-up products not intended to be applied to the lips. The composition is spread on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example LENETA Form WP1 for the matte black card and Leneta lA for the matte white card. The application can be performed with an automatic spreader. The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread. Solid Compositions (solid) are those whose viscosity can not be measured, and can be either sticky or powdery compositions in the form of free or compacted powders a) For solid powdery compositions free or compacted, the composition is applied using the same contrast cards as above, covered with a transparent tape, slightly rough, for example brand BLENDERM 3M company and reference 15025, glued by the face adhesive on the contrast cards. The composition is deposited on the adhesive tape so as to obtain a homogeneous deposition of 0.5 mg / cm 2 0.02 mg / cm 2. It is possible to use for depositing a sponge loaded with the composition and mounted on a disintegrating device that makes predefined movements with the sponge. The sponge is for example a disposable sponge of LANCAME Photogenic type, used on the pink side. b) The stick compositions are melted, for example at 90 ° C., then spread with a thickness of 50 m in the liquid state on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example with the same references as above, no covered with BLENDERM. The spreading bar is kept at the same temperature as the composition, so as to avoid thermal shock. Measurements and Calculations Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700-d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry / 8 and observation D65 / 10, excluding specular component mode, small aperture (CREISS)) on black backgrounds and white, the contrast cards being optionally covered with BLENDERM as indicated above. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the space CIELab76 within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to recommendation 15: 2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by averaging Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100. 2908640 7 Measuring the color of the composition in the mass The color in the mass is measured after filling a container having a depth sufficiently large to be able to consider an infinite product thickness in view of the measurement, for example a depth of 3 mm or more. The coordinates L *, a * and b * are measured with a spectrocolorimeter, for example a MINOLTA CM-2002 mark (D65 / 10, specular component mode excluded). Color measurement after application The color is measured on the dark background of the contrast card, the composition being spread as for the coverage measurement as detailed above but at a thickness of 1501.tm instead of 50 m for liquid compositions and non-pulverulent solid compositions, for example in stick form. The difference AE is calculated as follows: AE ù [(a * * 2 * * 12 * * 2 1/2 inamasseùa afterapplicatin) + \ U inlamasse ùU afterapplicatinJ + \ L inlamasse ùL afterapplicatinJ Measurement of the whiteness index L ' whiteness index is calculated from the infinite thickness color measurements and ASTM E313-05. Multilayer interference pigment The term "multilayer interference pigment" denotes a pigment capable of producing a color by a phenomenon of interference between the light rays reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive indices, in particular a succession of layers of high and low refractive indices. All multilayer interference pigments can be envisaged. The color produced by the multilayer interference pigment may be arbitrary, for example being of dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 nm or not. The composition may comprise only one multilayer interference pigment. The composition may comprise at least two multilayer interference pigments. The composition may comprise a single multilayer interference pigment or several multilayer interference pigments having different dominant wavelengths. The multi-layer interference pigment may comprise a substrate (also called a core or core) coated on at least one side with one or more layers of selected materials and thicknesses such that a color is produced by interference. Layers of the interference pigment may or may not surround the substrate, which may have a flattened shape or not. The substrate may comprise natural mica, synthetic mica, glass, alumina, silica, or any metal, alloy or metal oxide. The nature of the substrate may be chosen according to the desired gloss. For example, for a very bright rendering, a substrate of glass or metal may be preferred. The interference pigment may comprise more than four layers of different refractive indices. The particle size of the multilayer interference pigment, given by the average particle size at half of the population, also called D50, is, for example, from 1 m to 2000 m, more preferably from 51 to 2000 m. The proportion of multilayer interference pigment is, for example, greater than 7% and ranges, for example, from 7 to 20% for a non-pulverulent, liquid or cast composition, for example as a stick and from 40 to 95% for a powdery composition, free or compacted. The coverage of the composition may be due essentially to the content of multilayer interference pigment. Alternatively, at least one diffusing pigment and / or fillers can provide coverage. Nacres are examples of multilayer interference pigments that may be suitable. Nacres By nacre, it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of nacres that may be mentioned are pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica coated with with an organic dye in particular as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection. As an illustration of pearlescent agents that can be introduced as multilayer interference pigment, mention may be made of gold-colored pearlescent agents sold by the company Engelhard under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold. (Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the names Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne) 15; orange nacres sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company Merck under the name Passion Orange (Colorona) and Matte Orange (17449) (Microna); the nacres of brown hue sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); the nacres with a red glint sold especially by MERCK under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); nacres of red hue with gold glints sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by Engelhard under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black nacres with a gold glint sold especially by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold in particular by MERCK under the name Matte blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres to silver reflection sold in particular by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the golden greenish orange nacres 2908640 10 sold by the company Merck under the name Indian Summer (Xirona) and their mixtures. Multilayer interference pigments having magnetic properties are, for example, those marketed under the trade names COLORONA 5 BLACKSTAR BLUE, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GREEN, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, COLORONA BLACKSTAR RED, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE SUPER GREEN, MICRONA MATTE BLACK (17437), MICA BLACK ( 17260), COLORONA PATINA SILVER (17289) and COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288) from MERCK or FLAMENCO TWILIGHT RED, FLAMENCO 25 10 TWILIGHT GREEN, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GOLD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT BLUE, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE SILVER 110 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE GOLD 212 GB, TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB, ANTIQUE CLOISONNE NU GREEN 828 CB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BLUE 626 CB, GEMTONE MOONSTONE G 004, ANTIQUE CLOISONNE NU RED 424 CB, 15 CHROMA-LITE BLACK (4498), NARROW RED ANTIQUE CLOISONNE FLAMBE (code 440 XB), ANCIENT BRONZE NIGHT CLOISONNE (240 XB), ANTIQUE GOLD CLOISONNE GOLD (222 CB) and ANTIQUE CLOISONNE COPPER (340 XB) of the ENGELHARD company. The multilayer interference pigment may be further selected from interferential reflective particles. Interferential Reflective Particles These particles may be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, selected for example from titanium oxides, in particular TiO 2, in particular Fe 2 O 3, tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF 2, CrF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, SeO 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, MoS 2 and mixtures thereof or alloys. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a titanium dioxide coated synthetic mica substrate, or coated glass particles of either brown iron oxide, titanium oxide, titanium dioxide or titanium dioxide. tin oxide or one of their mixtures such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD. The multilayer interference pigment may be a goniochromatic pigment. Goniochromatic Pigment For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible, when the composition is spread on a support, to obtain a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space. corresponds to a variation Dh of the hue angle h of at least 20 when the angle of observation is varied from normal between 0 and 80, for an angle of incidence of the light of 45. The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and reference GON 360 GONIOMETER, after the composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 m by means of a automatic spreader on an ERICHSEN brand contrast card and Typ 24/5, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. The goniochromatic pigment may be selected from, for example, interfering multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF2, CeF3, ZnS , ZnSe, Si, SiO2, Ge, Te, Fe2O3, Pt, Va, Al2O3, MgO, Y2O3, 5203, SiO, HfO2, ZrO2, CeO2, Nb2O5, Ta2O5, TiO2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have, with respect to a central layer, a symmetry at the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Examples of symmetrical interferential multilayer structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being marketed under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). The liquid crystal coloring agents include, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. Examples of goniochromatic liquid crystal particles that may be used are those sold by the company Chenix and those sold under the name HELICONE HC by the company Wacker. As the goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments having effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular substrate such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interference flakes derived from a polyterephthalate film. The material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers may have a length of less than 80 gm for example. Cosmetically acceptable medium Cosmetically acceptable medium means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratinous substances of human beings. The cosmetically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied and to the form in which the composition is to be packaged. The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous medium and / or a fatty phase, be anhydrous or not. The aqueous or fatty phase The composition may comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, penthylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The hydrophilic phase may, in addition, contain C2 ethers and hydrophilic C2-C4 aldehydes. The water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 90%, especially 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight, especially 0.1% to 60% by weight. The composition may also comprise a fatty phase, in particular constituted by liquid fats at 25 ° C. and optionally solid fatty substances at ambient temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. As fatty substances which are liquid at room temperature, often called oils, which may be used in the invention, mention may be made, inter alia, of vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic acids. or octanoic, or sunflower oil, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and especially C8-C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutene, hydrogenated such as Parleam, squalane; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for example purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, ethyl-2-hexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils, such as volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature, such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes or diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxanes; diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures. These oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more physiologically acceptable organic solvents. This or these solvents, which may be lipophilic, may be present in a content ranging from 0 to 90%, better still from 0 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 30%. . The medium may comprise a liquid organic phase in which water is dispersed or emulsified. The composition may also have a continuous fat phase, which may contain less than 5% water, especially less than 1% water relative to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form. Film-forming agent The medium may comprise a film-forming agent, in particular a film-forming polymer. By film-forming agent is meant an agent capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a film which is macroscopically continuous and adheres to the keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolatable and manipulable in isolation, for example when said film is made by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface. The composition may comprise an aqueous phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this aqueous phase. This may be a polymer in dispersion or in solution. The composition may comprise an oily phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this oily phase. The polymer may then be in dispersion or in solution. Among the film-forming polymers which may be used, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. The free-radical type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas. The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. By way of example of liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched carbonyl (1 to 19 carbon atoms) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having at 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which has 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be cross-linked with crosslinking agents which may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. of divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl acetate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2,2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, dimethyl vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, cross-linked with 0.2% of head Raallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, and allyl propionate / crosslinked allyl stearate with 0.2% divinyl benzene. The film-forming polymer may further be selected from silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function. Of course, this list of polymers is not exhaustive. Other coloring agents The composition may comprise one or more diffusing pigments, generating a color by an absorption phenomenon, in a proportion that makes it possible to retain the interfering phenomenon responsible for the color of the composition once applied to the keratin materials . Various diffusing pigments may be envisaged, being for example chosen from organic lakes or pigments selected in particular from the materials below and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene dyes, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluoran, organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as azo dyes , anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrene, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane, these dyes may include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of those known under the following names: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C Green No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange. # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red # 17, D & C Red # 21, D & C Red # 22, 5 D & C Red # 27, D & C Red # 28, D & C Red # 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The lacquer may be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made in particular of those known under the following names: D & C Red n 2 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Barium Lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium lake, D & C 15 Red # 6 Potassium lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red n 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Red 8 Sodium lake, D & C Red 9 Aluminum lake, D & C Red 9 Barium lake, D & C Red 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red 9 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium 20 lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 27 Barium lake, D & C Red n 27 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 27 Zir conium lake, D & C Red # 28 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red # 30 Lake, D & C Red # 31 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 33 Aluminum Lake, 25 D & C Red # 34 Calcium Lake, D & C Red # 36 Lake, D & C Red # 40 Aluminum Lake , D & C Blue n 1 Aluminum lake, D & C Green n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Orange n 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 17 Barium lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow No. 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake, 30 D & C Yellow No. 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow No. 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue No. 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in International Cosmetic Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, the contents of which are incorporated herein by reference. The diffusing pigment may be a composite pigment having a core at least partially coated with a bark. Such a composite pigment may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core and at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic dyestuff. At least one binder may advantageously contribute to the attachment of the organic dyestuff to the inorganic core. The composite pigment particles may have various shapes. These particles may in particular be platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical, and may be hollow or solid. Platelet-shaped means particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5. A composite pigment may have, for example, a specific surface area of between 1 and 1000 m 2 / g, in particular between 10 and 600 m2 / g, and in particular between 20 and 400 m2 / g. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method. The mass proportion of the core may be greater than 50% based on the total weight of the composite pigment, for example from 50% to 70%, for example from 60% to 70%. The coloring agent may still be a dye. It may be a dye of plant, animal or mineral origin, in particular of vegetable or mineral origin, in particular of plant origin. This dye may be of a non-synthetic nature. The dye may be a water-soluble or fat-soluble natural dye. As an illustration of the natural water-soluble coloring agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of caramel, beetroot juice and carmine, betanin (beet), copper chlorophyllin and methylene blue. anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry) and riboflavin. By way of illustration of the natural fat-soluble coloring agents which can be used according to the invention, mention may be made especially of Sudan red, carotene, carotenoids, lycopene and palm oil. Sudan brown, quinoline yellow xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), and curcumin As other natural dyes, there may be mentioned more particularly anthocyanins of flowers or fruits or their derivatives, flavonoids and tannins extracted from plants. native or fermented, juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soy, algae, fungi, microorganisms, unsubstituted Flavylium salts in position 3 as described in patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and the pigments obtainable by extraction by an organic or hydro-organic solvent of a culture medium of micromycetes of the type 10 monascus Monasc Examples of synthetic dyes that may be mentioned include synthetic liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2 and Orange DC 5. Examples of synthetic water-soluble dyes include FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange. 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1. Charges The cosmetic composition may comprise fillers. By fillers are meant any particles of any form insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers can serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. As an example of fillers, mention may be made, inter alia, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, and polyamide powders (Nylon or Orgasol from Atochem). The content of charges will be chosen so as not to unduly hamper the desired result. Active ingredients and other compounds The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol such as glycerin), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), fatty acids Essential oils, essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, fat-soluble sunscreens or in the form of nano-particles, the specific active agents for the treatment of the skin (protective agents, anti-bacterial agents, anti-wrinkles, etc.). These active agents may be used, for example, at concentrations of 0.001 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants, UV filters, or mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition may, in addition, comprise, depending on the type of application envisaged, the constituents conventionally used in the fields under consideration, which are present in an amount appropriate to the desired dosage form. Galenic Forms The cosmetic composition may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application and in particular in anhydrous or non-anhydrous form, in solid, free or compacted powdery form, cast, for example as a stick, liquid, with a solution. oily or aqueous, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an oil dispersion in water through vesicles located at the oil / water interface or spray. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition having less than 5% by weight of water, better less than 3%, or even less than 1%. An anhydrous composition may not have water added intentionally during the preparation of the composition. The composition may especially be in the form of a stick. The cosmetic composition may constitute, among other products of

  makeup, lip stick or liquid lipstick, liquid lip gloss, lipstick paste, blush, foundation, eye contour product, eyeliner, mascara, a nail polish, an eye shadow, a makeup base, and more generally any makeup product for the body or hair.

The composition of the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics. Packaging and methods of application The composition may be packaged in any receptacle or on any support provided for this purpose. The composition can be applied using an applicator, flocked or not, for example a foam, a tip, a brush, a felt, a spatula, a sinter, a brush, a comb, a woven or non-woven.

The application may also be made with the finger or by directly depositing the composition on the support to be made up, for example by friction in the case of a stick or by spraying or projection using a piezoelectric device or by transfer of a composition layer previously deposited on an intermediate support. The composition may, if appropriate, be applied as a base coat coated with a layer of another composition (top coat), for example to impart gloss, or as a coating layer on a layer of another composition, or even between a base layer and a coating layer. The composition may be packaged in a conditioning device which reveals the color of the composition in the mass.

It may be a container having an at least partially transparent body and / or a packaging device comprising an at least partially transparent closure member. The composition may be packaged in a device which allows both the color of the composition in the mass and the color of the composition to be seen after application to keratin materials. The composition may also be packaged in a device which comprises means representative of the color revealed on application, for example a deposit of a layer of the composition or of an ink or varnish comprising the same coloring agents as the composition .

The invention also relates to a composition thus packaged. Where appropriate, the composition may be packaged with a magnet which makes it possible to modify the orientation of the multilayer interference pigment particles 2908640 22 and / or the reflective particles of the metal-reflecting pigment, when at least one of these pigments has a susceptibility magnetic non-zero.

Another aspect of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a method of presenting a cosmetic composition produced in accordance with the invention, comprising the steps of: illuminating at least one first region of a compositional sample with diffuse illumination so as to show the color in the mass, - illuminating at least a second region of a composition sample with directional illumination so as to reveal the interferential color. The first and second regions may be different regions of the same composition sample. Alternatively, the first and second regions belong to different samples. In another variant, the first and second regions correspond to the same region and the diffuse and directional lighting are applied alternately.

The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a display comprising: a directional lighting source, a diffuse lighting source, a support for exposing at least one composition sample the diffuse lighting source and at least one composition sample at the directional lighting source. The invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials using a composition according to the invention. It can be makeup of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or hair. The present invention also relates to a makeup kit comprising: a first composition according to the invention, a second composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and to be applied under or on the first composition. This second composition is for example intended to improve the behavior of the first composition and / or to change the appearance. Proposed examples The proportions indicated are mass. Example 1: Octyl-2 dodecanol lip gloss Ditertiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene 0.07 Polybutene (95/5 monoolefins / isoparaffins) (MW: 37 2060) Mixture of isopropyl p-hydroxybenzoates, iso-butyl, 0.6 n -butyl (40/30/30) Pentaerythrityl tetraisisostea 11,33 Tridecyl tri-mellitate 11 2-decyltetradecanoic acid triglyceride (GUERBET 15 C24) Multilayered interferential pigment * 15 10 * TIMIRON SILK RED MERCK The effect of this lip gloss results from the combination of several phenomena. The first one is the colonel rendering with the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the brilliance of the film which is the result of the presence of the oil / polymer system. This lip gloss has a mass color that is white. EXAMPLE 2 Lipstick Trimelitate tri-decyl 10.8 Lanolin liquid Istearlyl malate 11 Lanolin acetylene 10 Triglycerides of lauric / palmitic / cerylic / stearic acids (50/20/10/10) Wax microcrystalline (C20-C60) 3 protected isopropyl lanolate Octyl-2-decanol 13.5 Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (VISCOSITY: 20 CST-4 MW: 372) 2908640 25 Polyethylene wax (MW: 500) 8 Interferential pigment multilayer * 14.7 * TIMIRON SILK RED from MERCK The effect produced by this lipstick results from the combination of several phenomena. The first one is the colonel rendering with the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the film which is the fruit of the presence of the oil / polymer / wax system. This lipstick has a mass color that is white. This lipstick produces a makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

45 1Z6 ao re //, A 30 //////////// y 25 Io 20 il: '/ / //// f ///////////// The figure above allows comparison of the coverages obtained a) on the left with the cosmetic composition of Example 2 b) on the right with a similar formulation but containing only 3% of the multilayer interference pigment. Example 3 Blush Triethanolamine 1 ethylene diamine tetracetic acid, disodium salt, 2H 2 O 2 cross-linked carboxyvinyl homopolymer 0.5 polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.6 glycerol 5.75 deionized water 80.45 10 15 2908640 26 1.3 butylene glycol 2 microsphere silica (3 m) 1.5 Multilayer interference pigment * 8 * TIMIRON SILK BLUE from MERCK The effect produced by this blush results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. Added to this is the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the aqueous system.

This blush has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect. This blush can highlight a very intense blue cheekbones.

EXAMPLE 4 Water-Based Nail Polish Tetrasodium Pyophosphate 0.2 Polydimethylsiloxane 0.5 Methoxy Terminals Mixture of Aliphatic Polyurethane, N-68 Methyl Pyrrolidone, Triethylamine, Water (35 / 8.5 / 2 / 54.5) Glycerol 1 Deionized Water 15 Ethyl Alcohol (96) 2.8 Synthetic Laponite (mixed silicate 1,3 magnesium / lithium / sodium) Multilayer Interferential Pigment * 11,2 * TIMIRON SILK GREEN from MERCK The effect of this varnish nails result from the association of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the film which is the fruit of the presence of the aqueous system. This nail polish has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

EXAMPLE 5 Anhydrous Nail Polish Nitrocellulose 11 N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide Alkyd resin 10 Isopropanol 4 Multilayered interferential pigment * 10 Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50 Qs 100 * TIMIRON SILK RED of the company MERCK The effect of this nail polish results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. Added to this is the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the solvent system. This nail polish has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect. Example 6: Eyeshadow TERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYANISOLE 0.012 DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.012 WHITE VASELINE 1.2 OLEIC ALCOHOL 1.2 LANOLIN LIQUID PROTECTED 0.66 VASELINE OIL 6.516 CASTOR OIL 1.296 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0.864 P-HYDROXYBENZOATE PROPYLE 0.24 MIXTURE P-HYDROXYBENZOATES OF 0.6 METHYL, ETHYL, PROPYL, BUTYL ISOBUTYL / PHENOXY-2 ETHANOL interlayers multilayer pigment * 53.3 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 4 TALC 30.1 * TIMIRON SILK RED from MERCK L Effect produced by this eyeshadow powder results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the deposit which is the fruit of the presence of the multilayer interference pigment system / charges / binder. This eye shadow has a white color. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

EXAMPLE 7 Liquid eye shadows DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.09 MODIFIED HECTORITY DISTEARYL DIMETHYL 3.74 AMMONIUM ACID TRIGLYCERIDES 6.46 LAURIC / PALMITIC / CETYLIC / STEARIC (50/20/10/10) PROPYLENE CARBONATE 1 , 22 BEAN WAX WHITE 7,77 SHOREA BUTTER PROTECTED 1,7 LIQUID FRACTION OF SHEA BUTTER 0,85 PROTECTED NYLON POWDER 12 10, 4 ISO-DODECANE 38,32 PROPYLATED P-HYDROXYBENZOATE 0,17 REFINED PARAFFIN PROTECTED 3.88 TALC 10.4 Multilayer Interferential Pigment * 15 * TIMIRON SILK BLUE from MERCK The effect produced by this eyeshadow results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the solvent / polymer / wax / charge system. Eyeshadow has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

This blush makes it possible to emphasize the intense eyelids with a very intense blue. Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples that have just been given. The expression containing one is synonymous with having at least one and understood between understood inclusive limits.

Claims (23)

  1. Cosmetic covering composition greater than or equal to 25, preferably 30, comprising, in an aqueous cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition a color variation AE at the application greater than or equal to at 5.   2. Cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 25, better 30, comprising, in an anhydrous cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition a color variation AE at the application greater than or equal to 5.   3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, the multilayer interference pigment comprising a substrate of silica, mica, glass, alumina or metal.   4. Composition according to claim 3, the substrate being silica, mica or glass.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the composition being non-pulverulent and the total mass content of multilayer interference pigment ranging from 7 to 20%.   6. Composition according to claim 5, being liquid (at 25 C).   7. Composition according to claim 5, being in the form of a stick. 20   8. Composition according to one of claims 5 to 7, the total mass content of multilayer interference pigment ranging from 8 to 15%.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising an oil, especially at a mass content greater than or equal to 30%.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising a wax, especially at a mass content greater than or equal to 10%.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising a filler, especially at a mass content greater than or equal to 10%.   12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the composition being pulverulent and the total mass content of multilayer interference pigment ranging from 40 to 95%. 2908640 30   13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, the color of the composition in the mass being white.   The composition of claim 13 wherein the bulk composition has a Whiteness Index greater than or equal to 40.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, the composition having no other dyeing agent than the multilayer interference pigment or pigments.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, the multilayer interference pigment comprising at least four layers. 10   17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, the multilayer interference pigment comprising a substrate of a transparent material.   18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the color produced by the multilayer interference pigment not having a dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 nm. 15   19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising only a single multilayer interference pigment.   20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least two multilayer interference pigments.   21. Composition according to claim 20, the two multilayer interference pigments having layers consisting of the same materials but at least one layer of a pigment having a thickness different from a corresponding layer of the other pigment.   22. A method for making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21.   23. Packaging assembly comprising: - a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21, - a means for informing the user on the color of the composition after application to keratin materials.