FR2903892A1 - Method useful for making-up dark skin involves applying to skin, cosmetic composition of red interference pigment in medium, where after application, composition generate highlights with high intensity and specific dominant wavelength - Google Patents

Abstract

Making-up dark skin involves applying to the skin a cosmetic composition (C1) comprising at least one red interference pigment in a medium, in which when the composition is applied to the skin, it generates highlights with an intensity of >= 3000 cd.m -> 2> and a dominant wavelength of 580-650 nm. Independent claims are included for the following: (1) a makeup composition (C2) comprising at least one colorant, and at least one red interference pigment in a medium, where when the composition is applied to the skin, it generates highlights with an intensity of >= 3000 cd.m -> 2> and a dominant wavelength of 580-650 nm; and (2) a set of at least two cosmetic compositions (C1), where the saturation difference between two compositions of the set is = 2, the red interference pigment in the two compositions is at concentrations that differ by at least 1%.

Description

1 The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions intended for

make-up of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, lips or integuments. The color red can be produced, just like the other colors, with an interference pigment by an interference phenomenon by reflection of light on a multilayer structure comprising a stack of layers whose refractive indices and thicknesses are suitably chosen, by example a silica core coated with a surface layer of iron oxide. However, the tolerance on the refractive indices and the thicknesses of the deposited layers is lower for red than for the other colors, taking into account the order of appearance of the colors during the decomposition of the spectrum of white light. In addition, in the case of the iron oxide layer interference pigment mentioned above, the red color produced by the interference phenomenon easily competes with that produced by absorption by the surface layer, which ultimately renders the color. observed sensitive to the viewing conditions and environment of the pigment. The presence of the red interference pigment alone does not make it possible to create a uniform colored background except by introducing a large quantity thereof, liable to harm the production of color by interference. The term “uniform colored background” denotes a background whose color does not vary significantly when the angle of observation varies from 0 to 80. The addition of a diffusing pigment producing a color by absorption phenomenon in order to obtain a uniform colored background tends to adversely affect the production of color by the interference phenomenon, when the content becomes relatively high. There is therefore a need to produce the red color by interference phenomenon while having a uniform colored background. There is also a need to benefit, where appropriate, from a make-up having a light scattering effect in order for example to conceal underlying skin defects. Such a diffusing effect is generally obtained by the incorporation into the composition of at least one diffusing filler.

However, in the case of a composition comprising a red interference pigment, the presence of the filler is detrimental to the production of the color by the interference phenomenon. It may thus prove useful to benefit from a make-up making it possible to produce the color red by an interference phenomenon while being capable of providing a blurring effect in order to hide underlying defects. The present invention aims to meet at least one of the aforementioned needs and it achieves this thanks to an assembly comprising: a first cosmetic composition to be applied to keratin materials, comprising at least one coloring agent capable of generating a color by absorption or a diffusing filler, a second cosmetic composition to be applied to the first and comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium, in which is dispersed at least one red interference pigment capable of creating, when the second composition is applied to a support, dots with an intensity greater than or equal to 3000 cd.m 2 and with a dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 mm. Thanks to the invention, the interference phenomenon is not hampered by the presence of the diffusing pigment or the filler because the latter is present in the underlying base layer and therefore does not interfere with not the propagation of light in the cover layer containing the red interference pigment. Preferably, the medium in which the red interference pigment is dispersed is transparent, which makes it possible to see the underlying deposit. A subject of the present invention is also, independently of the foregoing, an assembly comprising: a base composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium in which is dispersed at least one red interference pigment capable of creating, when the composition is applied to a support , highlights of intensity greater than or equal to 3000 cd.m-2 and of dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 mm, a covering composition to be applied thereto. This other composition can be transparent and can make it possible, for example, to improve the gloss and to create a magnifying effect on the points of red highlighting.

2903892 3 The covering composition may comprise a medium with a refractive index greater than that in which the red interference pigment is dispersed. Measuring the Intensity of the Highlighting Points To measure the intensity of the highlighting points, the composition studied is spread out on a contrast card, for example of the LENETA brand, over a thickness of 300 m. The composition thus spread is placed in front of a colorimetric camera 1 according to the arrangement shown in FIG. 1. In this figure, it can be seen that the contrast card 2 coated with the composition is placed perpendicular to the optical axis X of the camera. 1 and that the illumination is effected by means of a light source 4 (illuminant D65) emitting in a direction making an angle of 5 with the optical axis X. The highlight is defined as the light intensity emitted so localized. The camera has a resolution in the xy plane of a few m, sufficient to differentiate very clearly the different particles present in the composition. The optical system is for example the photometer and the imaging colorimeter LUMICAM 1300 from the company INSTRUMENT SYSTEM. The luminance measurements can be carried out in the range 0.2 to 200,000 cd.m 2 with a measurement precision of 4%, a repeatability of 0.1% and a uniformity of 1.5% (for an area of 10 x 10 pixels). The optical system comprises a 105 mm macro lens having a field angle of 5, a focal length of 22 mm, placed at a distance of 48 cm from the composition. The measurement area extends over 2.9 x 2.7 mm. The sensitivity is 100 iso, the shutter speed is 1 / 60s and the aperture is 25 f: 2. The experimental device illustrated makes it possible to eliminate the specular reflection on the surface of the film of the composition. The result obtained is in the form of a two-dimensional matrix where each element Mij represents the intensity detected by the cell with coordinates i, j in the xy plane, 30 in candela per m2, 2903892 4 M ,, 1 M, m Mn 1 M m , n where: m denotes the number of pixels in the x direction of the detection system, and n denotes the number of pixels in the y direction of the detection system.

5 The dominant wavelength is measured with the imaging colorimeter. Red interference pigment This pigment is able, according to the invention, to generate highlights with a dominant wavelength between 580 nm and 650 nm, better still 580 nm and 600 nm, and with an intensity greater than or equal to 3000. cd.m 2, better 3,400 cd.m2, even better 4,200 cd 10 m 2. The intensity may be less than 5,000 cd m-2. Preferably, the size of this pigment, defined by the average particle size distribution at half of the population, also called D50, is greater than or equal to 30 m, better 40 m, for example between 30 and 80 m, better 30 and 70 m. Such a size can prove to be advantageous, because of the same order as the separating power of the eye, which makes it possible to obtain when the red highlight dots are on a colored background of the same color, a particularly attractive shimmering matt effect. . The pigment advantageously has a generally flattened shape, its thickness being for example less than or equal to 5 m, preferably less than or equal to 3 m.

The multilayer structure may or may not be symmetrical, preferably being symmetrical. The pigment may comprise a core of an organic or inorganic material, covered with one or more layers of organic or inorganic materials. The pigment may comprise, for example, a core of silica, of mica or of glass, coated with a layer of iron oxide Fe2O3 or of another metal oxide, for example an oxide of titanium or of tin. The thickness of the one or more layers covering the core will be determined by the theory of the reflection of light on the thin layers, so that the reflected light has the desired dominant wavelength.

Preferably, the core is of generally flattened shape and the pigment has substantially planar main faces, so as to allow intense specular reflection. The pigment may, if desired, exhibit non-zero magnetic susceptibility. As an example of a commercially available red interference pigment, mention may be made of that marketed under the reference XIRONA LE ROUGE by the company MERCK. First Composition The first composition may be intended to form the base coat and may have any formulation compatible with the subsequent deposition of the second composition. The first composition can in particular comprise a cosmetically acceptable medium, as defined below, and at least one coloring agent or a diffusing filler.

Coloring Agent The coloring agent may be intended to create a continuously colored background when viewed with the naked eye. The first composition can thus comprise one or more diffusing pigments making it possible to generate a colored background, for example with a C * saturation greater than 20 or equal to 40, better still 50, in particular by an absorption phenomenon. The total mass content of diffusing pigment (s) in the first composition is for example between 0.1 and 60%. Various diffusing pigments can be envisaged, being for example chosen from lakes or organic pigments selected in particular from the materials below and their mixtures: - cochineal carmine, - organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthenic dyes, pyrenics, quinolinics, triphenylmethane, fluoran, - organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as dyes azo, anthraquinonics, indigoids, xanthenics, pyrenics, quinolinics, triphenylmethane, fluorane, these dyes possibly comprising at least one carboxylic or sulphonic acid group. Among the organic pigments, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Blue n 4, D&C Brown n 1, D&C Green n 5, D&C 5 Green n 6, D&C Orange n 4, D&C Orange n 5, D&C Orange n 10, D&C Orange n 11, D&C Red n 6, D&C Red n 7, D&C Red n 17, D&C Red n 21, D&C Red n 22, D&C Red n 27, D&C Red n 28, D&C Red n 30, D&C Red n 31, D&C Red n 33, D&C Red n 34, D&C Red n 36, D&C Violet n 2, D&C Yellow n 7, D&C Yellow n 8, D&C Yellow n 10, D&C Yellow n 11, FD&C Blue n 1, FD&C Green n 3, FD&C Red 10 No. 40, FD&C Yellow No. 5, FD&C Yellow No. 6. The lacquer may be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may in particular be made of those known under the following names: D&C Red n 2 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 3 Aluminum 15 lake, D&C Red n 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 6 Barium lake, D&C Red n 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n 6 Strontium lake, D&C Red n 6 Potassium lake, D&C Red n 7 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 7 Barium lake, D&C Red n 7 Calcium lake, D&C Red n 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n 8 Sodium lake, D&C Red n 9 Aluminum lake, D&C Red 20 n 9 Barium lake, D&C Red n 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D&C Red n 9 Zirconium lake , D&C Red n 10 Sodium lake, D&C Red n 19 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 19 Barium lake, D&C Red n 19 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n 21 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 21 Zirconium lake, D&C Red n 22 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 27 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D&C Red n 27 Barium lake, D&C Red 25 n 27 Calcium lake, D&C Red n 27 Z irconium lake, D&C Red n 28 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 30 lake, D&C Red n 31 Calcium lake, D&C Red n 33 Aluminum lake, D&C Red n 34 Calcium lake, D&C Red n 36 lake, D&C Red n 40 Aluminum lake, D&C Blue n 1 Aluminum lake, D&C Green n 3 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n 4 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, 30 D&C Orange n 10 Aluminum lake, D&C Orange n 17 Barium lake, D&C Yellow n 5 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n 5 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n 6 Aluminum lake, D&C Yellow n 7 Zirconium lake, D&C Yellow n 10 Aluminum lake, FD&C Blue n 1 2903892 7 Aluminum lake, FD&C Red n 4 Aluminum lake , FD&C Red n 40 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n 5 Aluminum lake, FD&C Yellow n 6 Aluminum lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic coloring materials mentioned above are mentioned in the work International Cosmetic 5 Ingredient Dictionnary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, of which the content is incorporated herein by reference. The diffusing pigment can be a composite pigment, comprising a core at least partially coated with a shell. Such a composite pigment can be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core and at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic coloring material. At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the attachment of the organic coloring material to the inorganic core. The composite pigment particles can have various shapes. These particles may in particular be in the form of platelets or globular, in particular spherical, and be hollow or solid. The term “platelet-shaped” denotes particles of which the ratio of the greatest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5. A composite pigment may for example have a specific surface area of between 1 and 1000 m2 / g, in particular between 10 and 600 m2 / g approximately, and in particular between 20 and 400 m2 / g approximately. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method. The mass proportion of the core can exceed 50% relative to the total weight of the composite pigment, for example ranging from 50% to 70%, for example from 60 A) to 70%. The first composition can also comprise one or more pigments chosen, for example, from goniochromatic pigments, diffracting pigments, nacres and reflecting particles. By way of example of nacres, mention may be made of gold-colored nacres, in particular those marketed by the ENGELHARD company under the name Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold (Timica), Gold 4504 ( Chromalite) and Monarch gold 233X ùCloisonne); the bronzed nacres sold in particular by the company MECK under the name Bronze fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by the company ENGELHARD under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD 2903892 8 under the names Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company MERCK under the names Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); the nacres of brown tints in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown 5 CL4509 (Chromalite); the nacres with a copper reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Copper 340 A (Timica); the nacres with a red reflection in particular sold by the company MERCK under the name Sienne fine (17386) (Colorona); nacres with a yellow reflection, in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red tinted nacres with a gold reflection in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); the pink nacres in particular sold by the company ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); black mother-of-pearl with a gold reflection in particular sold by the company ENGLEHARD under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica); the blue nacres, in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna); white nacres with a silvery reflection in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the pinkish-orange nacres in golden green in particular marketed by the company MERCK under the name Indian summer (Xirona), and mixtures thereof.

By way of example of reflective particles, mention may be made of particles comprising a substrate of synthetic mica coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of glass coated either with brown iron oxide, titanium oxide or of tin or of one of their mixtures, such as those sold under the brand REFLECKS by the company ENGELHARD.

As an example of a diffracting pigment, mention may be made of that marketed under the name SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver by the company FLEX PRODUCTS, or SPECTRAFLAIR 1400 Pigment Silver FG. As goniochromatic pigment, mention may be made of the pigment sold under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; those having the structures MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe2O3 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / Fe2O3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2 sold under the name XIRONA by the company MERCK.

2903892 9 The coloring agent can also be a dye. It may be a dye of plant, animal or mineral origin, in particular of plant or mineral origin, in particular of plant origin. This dye can be of a non-synthetic nature.

The colorant can be a water soluble or fat soluble natural colorant. By way of illustration of the water-soluble natural coloring agents capable of being used according to the invention, mention may be made in particular of caramel, beet juice and carmine, betanin (beet), copper-colored chlorophyllin, methylene blue. , anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry) and riboflavin.

By way of illustration of the liposoluble natural coloring agents capable of being used according to the invention, there may be mentioned in particular Sudan red, R-carotene, carotenoids, lycopene, palm oil, Sudan brown. , quinoline yellow, xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), and curcumin. As other natural dyes, mention may more particularly be made of flower or fruit anthocyanins or their derivatives, flavonoids and tannins extracted from native or fermented plants, juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybean, algae, fungi, microorganisms, Flavylium salts unsubstituted in position 3 as described in patent EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and pigments obtainable by extraction by a 20 organic or hydro-organic solvent for a culture medium for micromycetes of the monascus type Monascus. As examples of synthetic dyes, mention may be made of synthetic fat-soluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow II, DC Violet 2 and DC Orange 5.

As examples of synthetic water-soluble dyes, mention may be made of FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5. , DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 5 and FDC Blue 1. The first composition can comprise fillers, in particular when one seeks to conceal underlying defects. These fillers can be white or colorless in the middle.

The term “fillers” denotes particles of any form which are insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is manufactured. By way of example of fillers, mention may be made, inter alia, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, and polyamide powders (Nylon or Orgasol from Atochem). The fillers can also be present in order to give the first composition the desired texture or rheology. Second Composition The second composition contains the red interference pigment dispersed in a cosmetically acceptable medium. The second composition is for example intended to be applied to the first. Cosmetically Acceptable Medium The term "cosmetically acceptable medium" denotes a non-toxic medium capable of being applied to the keratin materials of human beings. The cosmetically acceptable medium of the first and of the second composition will be suited to the nature of the support to which these compositions must be applied and to the form in which these compositions are intended to be packaged.

The medium can be aqueous and / or comprise a fatty phase. The medium of the second composition will be chosen so as to allow application to a layer of the first composition. Aqueous or fatty phase The medium can comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and in particular linear or branched lower monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerin, diglycerin, propylene glycol, sorbitol, pentethylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The hydrophilic phase may further contain C2 ethers and hydrophilic C2-C4 aldehydes. Water or the mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the medium in a content ranging from 0% to 90%, in particular 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition concerned, and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight, in particular 0.1% to 60% by weight. The medium may also comprise a fatty phase, in particular consisting of fatty substances which are liquid at 25 ° C. and optionally of fatty substances which are solid at room temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. As fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, often called oils, which can be used in the invention, mention may be made, inter alia, of vegetable hydrocarbon oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms such as triglycerides of heptanoic acids or octanoic, or sunflower, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame, apricot, macadamia, castor, avocado, triglycerides, caprylic / capric acid oil, jojoba, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as paraffin oils and, in particular C8C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as 15 than Parléam, squalane; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as, for example, Purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-octyl-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octylhydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearylmalate, triisoketyl citrate, fatty alcohol heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and esters of pentaerythritol; fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleic alcohol; partially hydrocarbon-based and / or silicone-based fluoro oils; silicone oils such as polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS) which may or may not be volatile, linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature, such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenyl siloxanes, diphenylmethyldimanes diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures. These oils can be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90% relative to the total weight of the composition.

The medium according to the invention can also comprise one or more organic solvents, physiologically acceptable. This or these solvent (s), which may be lipophilic, may be present in a content ranging from 0 to 90%, better still from 0 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and even better still from 0.1 to 30%. .

The medium may comprise a liquid organic phase in which water is dispersed or emulsified. The medium may also have a continuous fatty phase, which may contain less than 5% water, in particular less than 1% water relative to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form.

Film-forming agent The medium may comprise a film-forming agent, in particular a film-forming polymer. The term “film-forming agent” is understood to mean an agent capable of forming, on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous film which adheres to keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose thickness. cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and handled in isolation, for example when said film is produced by casting on a non-stick surface such as a Teflon or silicone surface. The medium may include an aqueous phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this aqueous phase. This can be a polymer in dispersion or in solution. The medium can comprise an oily phase and the film-forming polymer can be present in this oily phase. The polymer can then be in dispersion or in solution.

Among the film-forming polymers which can be used, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. The radical type film-forming polymers can in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins and polyureas.

Polyesters can be obtained, in a known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols. Polyesters amides can be obtained in a manner analogous to polyesters, by polycondensation of dibasic acids with diamines or amino alcohols.

As an example of liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or linear hydrocarbon radical. branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (of which the alkyl group contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allylic or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded carbonyl of the ester group). These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinkers which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. of divinyl. As examples of such copolymers, there may be mentioned the copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, stearate vinyl / allyl acetate, 2-dimethyl, 2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2-dimethyl, 2 allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, 25 vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / d stearate allyl, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

The film-forming polymer can also be chosen from silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The film-forming polymer can also be present in the composition in question in the form of particles dispersed in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. The medium may comprise a plasticizer which promotes the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer can be chosen from among all the compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function. Of course, this list of polymers is not exhaustive. Fillers and Coloring Agents The medium may comprise one or more of the fillers or coloring agents. The content of fillers or coloring agents in the medium will be chosen, in the case of the second composition, so as not to unduly hamper the interference phenomenon responsible for the red highlights. Actives and Other Compounds The medium may also contain one or more cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients which can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol such as glycerin), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), essential fatty acids, essential oils, 25 ceramides, sphingolipids, liposoluble sun filters or in the form of nanoparticles, specific active agents for treating the skin (protective, anti-bacterial, anti-wrinkle agents, etc.). These active agents can be used for example at concentrations of 0.001 to 15% relative to the total weight of the corresponding composition. The medium may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, basifying or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants UV filters, or mixtures thereof.

Each composition can, moreover, comprise, according to the type of application envisaged, the constituents conventionally used in the fields considered, which are present in an amount suitable for the desired galenic form. Dosage Forms Each composition may be in any dosage form normally used for topical application and in particular in anhydrous form, in solid or semi-solid form, in an oily or aqueous solution, an oily or aqueous gel, or an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, a dispersion of oil in water using vesicles located at the oil / water interface, a spray, as long as you keep the red highlight points. The assembly comprising the first and second compositions can be intended for making up the lips, the skin, keratin fibers, in particular the eyelashes or the hair, and the nails. Each composition can be obtained according to the preparation processes conventionally used in cosmetics. Packaging and methods of application Each composition can be packaged in any receptacle or on any support provided for this purpose. Each composition can be in the form of a solid, in particular a bread or grape or a powder, a semi-solid, a liquid, a spray, a paste or a more or less fluid cream. Each composition can be applied using an applicator, flocked or not, for example a foam, a tip, a brush, a felt, a spatula, a frit, a brush, a comb, a woven or non-woven.

The application can also be carried out with the finger or by depositing the composition directly on the support to be made up, for example by friction or spraying or projection using a piezoelectric device or by transfer of a layer of composition. previously deposited on an intermediate support. In particular, the second composition can be applied by spraying so as not to alter the deposition of the first composition. Each composition can be applied, for example, with a thickness of, for example, between 1 and 10 m.

The application of each composition is carried out, for example, with a mass density of between 1 and 5 mg / cm2. Make-up process The subject of the present invention is also a make-up process by means of an assembly as defined above, comprising the application to keratin materials of the composition not containing the red interference pigment, then the application. on this first composition of a second composition containing it. If necessary, a third composition can come to cover that containing the red interference pigment.

A subject of the present invention is also a process for making up using an assembly as defined above, comprising the application to keratin materials of a first composition containing the red interference pigment then application to this composition. of another composition not containing it.

Example proposed The contents indicated are by mass. Example 1 Basecoat Tri-decyl tri-mellitate 11 Liquid lanolin 10 Isostearyl malate 13 Acetylated lanolin 10 Lauric / palmitic / cetyl / stearic acid triglycerides 50/20/10/10 5 Microcrystalline wax (C20 -C60) 3 Protected isopropyl lanolate 10 Octyl-2-decanol 16 Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (VISCOSITY: 20 CST û MW: 372) 4 Polyethylene wax (MW: 500) 8 Pigment DC RED7 CI 15850 5 2903892 Octyl overcoat -2 dodecanol 10 Ditertiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene 0.07 Polybutene (monoolefins / isoparaffins 95/5) (MW: 2060) 50 Mixture of isopropyl, iso-butyl, n-butyl p-hydroxybenzoates (40/30/30) 0 , 4 Pentaerythrityl tetra-iso-stearate 11.33 Tridecyl tri-mellitate 12 2-decyl tetradecanoic acid triglyceride (GUERBET C24) 11 Colored interference pigment * 5 * Red interference pigment comprising a silica core coated with a layer of iron oxide Fe203 available from the company MERCK under the reference XIRONA LE ROUGE.

5 The basecoat forms a uniform continuous bottom. Thanks to the covering layer, a shimmering effect is obtained which is all the more visible the more the coloring agent of the base layer is separated from the red interference pigment. Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been given. The expression comprising a is synonymous with comprising at least one and 10 between the limits included. 17

Claims (21)

1. Assembly comprising: a first cosmetic composition to be applied to keratin materials, comprising at least one coloring agent capable of generating a color by absorption or a diffusing filler, a second cosmetic composition to be applied to the first and comprising a cosmetically medium acceptable, in which is dispersed at least one red interference pigment capable of creating, when the second composition is applied to a support, highlights of intensity greater than or equal to 3000 cd.m 2 and of dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 mm. 2. Assembly according to claim 1, the medium of the second composition being transparent. 3. Assembly according to claim 1 or 2, the red interference pigment comprising a layer of a metal oxide on the surface. 4. Assembly according to claim 3, the metal oxide being an iron oxide. 5. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 3, the red interference pigment comprising an inorganic nucleus. 20 6. Assembly according to claim 5, the inorganic core being made of silica, mica or glass. 7. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the coloring agent comprising a diffusing pigment. 8. Assembly according to claim 7, the color generated by the scattering pigment being of dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 nm. 9. Assembly according to claim 7 or 8, the diffusing pigment being in a mass content ranging from 0.1 to 60%, relative to the weight of the first composition. 10. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 9, the first composition comprising a diffusing filler. 30 11. An assembly according to claim 10, the filler being white in the medium. 2903892 12. An assembly according to claim 10, the filler being translucent in the medium. 13. Assembly according to any one of the preceding claims, the mass content of the red interference pigment in the second composition ranging from 0.1 to 60%, the latter being solid. 14. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 11, content of red interference pigment ranging from 0.1 to 15%, the second composition being liquid. 15. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 11, the second composition comprising a fatty phase. 16. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 15, the red interference pigment being the only coloring agent present in the second composition. 17. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 16, the second composition being devoid of solid bodies other than the red interference pigment. 18. Assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 17, the first composition being capable of creating a uniform colored background. 19. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 18, the size of the red interference pigment ranging from 30 m to 80 m. 20. An assembly according to any one of claims 1 to 19, comprising a third composition to be applied to the second. 21. A process for making up by means of an assembly as defined in any one of claims 1 to 20, comprising the application to keratin materials of the first composition and then the application to this first composition of the second composition. 19s25