FR2908634A1 - Cosmetic composition of coverage, useful for make up of keratinous matter, comprises multi-layer interferential pigment, in aqueous medium or anhydrous medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Cosmetic composition having coverage of >= 30, comprises at least a multi-layer interferential pigment, in aqueous medium or anhydrous medium, where the pigments confer a color variation (delta E) of >= 5 on application to the composition. Independent claims are included for: (1) a process of make-up of the keratinous matters, comprising applying the composition on the keratinous matter; and (2) a conditioning set comprising the composition and manual allowing to user information about color of the composition after application.

Description

The present invention relates to cosmetic compositions, and more

  especially those intended for the makeup of keratin materials. BACKGROUND It is known to introduce diffusing pigments into makeup compositions to produce colors by a phenomenon of absorption of light by specific chromophores. To these diffusing pigments, which are necessary to benefit from a continuous and sufficiently covering colored background, may be added effect particles (s) to create, for example, points of gloss or impart a pearlescent appearance. However, the intensity of the color produced by these compositions may be insufficient to lead to a completely satisfactory result. Multilayer interference pigments, comprising a stack of layers whose refractive indices and thicknesses are suitably selected to generate a color by an interference phenomenon, make it possible to produce a greater color intensity than the diffusing pigments above. . To the knowledge of the inventor, in commercially available compositions, these multilayer interference pigments are employed at a mass concentration of not more than 5%. It is moreover known by CHRYSALIDE brand eyeshadows from LANCAME to confer both coverage and color intensity by means of a make-up involving a first act of depositing on the keratin materials a base layer of black color containing a diffusing pigment providing coverage and then depositing by a second gesture on this base layer a composition providing color through a multilayer interference pigment. Without the base layer, the covering layer is almost invisible because it is not covering and without color. The use of two successive applications complicates makeup and makes packaging more expensive. 30 2908634 2 Abstract There is a need to benefit from a composition capable of providing coverage and producing a relatively saturated color, in order to be able to obtain in a single gesture a makeup that is both covering and colored. Furthermore, it is desirable to benefit from cosmetic compositions intended for the makeup of keratin materials which present new effects that are likely to attract consumers, without these new effects occurring to the detriment of the quality of the makeup obtained. The invention aims in particular to meet all or part of the needs identified above. According to one of its aspects, the subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 30 comprising, in an aqueous cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition a variation of In another aspect, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition with a coverage of greater than or equal to 30, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable anhydrous medium, at least one pigment. multilayer interference, and in a content conferring on the composition a color variation AE of the composition at application greater than or equal to 5. The color after application is determined for the purposes of calculating AE after spreading the composition on a card of contrast, as for the measurement of the coverage. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 30 comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition a color variation. AE at application greater than or equal to 5, the multilayer interference pigment producing a color of dominant wavelength outside the range of 580 nm to 650 nm.

  The coverage of the composition may be due, if necessary, only to the content of interferential pigment (s) multilayer. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a cosmetic composition of coverage greater than or equal to 30 comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content which confers on the composition a variation. of color AE at application greater than or equal to 5 to 5, the color of the composition in the mass being white. According to the compositions, the difference AE may be for example between 5 and 30, especially greater than any integer value in this range. The coverage may be greater than 40, for example between 40 and 70, especially greater than any integer value in this range. In multilayer interference pigments, the production of color by the interference phenomenon competes with the production of color by the phenomenon of absorption by the surface layer of the pigment. Thus, when the pigment concentration increases sufficiently, the color produced by the interference phenomenon decreases in favor of that produced by absorption. The invention, by exploiting this property, makes it possible to observe a color variation from the composition to the application, which confers a playful aspect to the use. The invention also offers new possibilities in the marketing of cosmetic compositions, allowing to play at the packaging level on this color variation before and after application. The mass content of multilayer interference pigment can range from 7 to 20%, more preferably 8 to 15%, especially in the case of a non-pulverulent composition, for example liquid or cast. For a powdery, free or compact composition, the content of multilayer interference pigment is, for example, from 40 to 95%, more preferably 50 to 80%. The color of the composition in the mass may be white. The composition, by weight, may have a whiteness index greater than or equal to 40. The composition may not comprise any other coloring agent other than the multilayer interference pigment or pigments. The multilayer interference pigment may comprise at least four layers, for example. The multilayer interference pigment may comprise a substrate made of a transparent material. The multilayer interference pigment may comprise a substrate of a more or less rough material, which may make it possible to impart more or less gloss to the composition. The substrate is for example chosen from natural mica, relatively rough, synthetic mica, alumina, silica or glass or metal for a smoother surface. In examples, the composition comprises more than 30% by weight in total of oil (s). In examples, the composition comprises more than 10% by weight of total wax (es). Charges The cosmetic composition may comprise fillers. By fillers are meant any particles of any form insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers can serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. As an example of fillers, mention may be made, inter alia, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, and polyamide powders (Nylon or Orgasol from Atochem). The filler content will be chosen so as not to unduly hinder the desired result. The composition may comprise two multilayer interference pigments having layers of the same materials, at least one layer of a pigment having a different thickness of a corresponding layer of the other pigment, so as to produce different colors. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a non-pulverulent cosmetic composition, for example liquid (at 25 ° C.) or cast, comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: between 7 and 20%, better 8 to 15% by weight, in total, of one or more multilayer interference pigments having a mineral substrate, for example silica, mica, alumina, glass or metal. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a pulverulent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium: between 40 and 95%, better still 40 and 80% by weight, in total, of a or a plurality of multilayer interference pigments having a mineral substrate, for example silica, mica, glass alumina or metal. According to another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is also a packaging assembly comprising: a composition as defined above; means for informing the user of the color of the composition after application. It may be for example an ink or varnish printing, a thin layer of composition or a molding or overmolding of a material incorporating the multilayer interference or pigments. Measurement of Coverage Liquid Compositions (at 25 ° C.) A liquid composition is understood to mean a composition whose viscosity can be measured. A liquid composition can flow under the effect of its own weight. The coverage of the compositions is measured at a finite thickness of 50 m for the liquid compositions to be applied to the lips, in particular liquid lipsticks, liquid lip glosses and liquid lip balms, and 150 m thick for varnishes. nails, eye shadows, liquid foundations, mascaras and other liquid make-up products not intended to be applied to the lips. The composition is spread on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example LENETA Form WP1 for the matte black card and Leneta 1A for the matte white card. The application can be performed with an automatic spreader. The measurements are carried out on the compositions thus spread. Solid Compositions (at 25 ° C.) Solid compositions are those whose viscosity can not be measured. These may be cast or powdered compositions in the form of free or compact powders. A) For powdery solid compositions, free or compacted, the composition is applied using the same contrast cards as above, covered with a transparent tape, slightly rough, for example brand BLENDERM 3M company and reference 15025, adhered by the adhesive side on the 5 contrast cards. The composition is deposited on the adhesive tape so as to obtain a homogeneous deposition of 0.5 mg / cm 2 0.02 mg / cm 2. It is possible to use for the deposit a sponge loaded with the composition and mounted on a disintegrating device that makes the predefined movements to the sponge. The sponge is for example a disposable sponge type LANCAME Photogenic, used on the pink side. b) The stick compositions are melted, for example at 90 ° C., and then spread in the liquid state on matt black and matt white contrast cards, for example with the same references as above, not covered with BLENDERM. The spreading bar is maintained at the same temperature as the composition, so as to avoid thermal shock. The stick compositions for application to the lips are thus deposited once melted with a thickness of 50 m. The other compositions are spread with a thickness of 150 m. Measurements and Calculations Reflectance spectra are acquired using a MINOLTA 3700d spectrocolorimeter (diffuse measurement geometry and D65 / 10 observation, specular component excluded mode, small aperture (CREISS)) on the black and white backgrounds. contrast cards being possibly covered with BLENDERM as indicated above. The spectra are expressed in colorimetric coordinates in the space CIELab76 within the meaning of the International Commission on Illumination according to Recommendation 15: 2004. The contrast ratio, or coverage, is calculated by averaging Y on a black background, divided by the average value of Y on a white background, multiplied by 100. 30 Measuring the Color of the Composition in the Mass 2908634 7 Color in the mass is measured after filling a container having a sufficiently large depth to be able to consider an infinite product thickness in view of the measurement, for example a depth of 3 mm or more. The coordinates L *, a * and b * are measured with a spectrocolorimeter, for example the MINOLTA CM-2002 mark (D65 / 10, specular component mode excluded). Measurement of the color after application The color is measured on the dark background of the contrast card, the composition being spread as for the measurement of the coverage as detailed above. The difference AE is calculated as follows: (* * 2 * * l2 * * AE 'ù [\ a in the mass afterapplicatin) + `b in the mass afterapplicatin) + (1' enia mass ùL afterapplicatin) 211/2 Measure The whiteness index is calculated from the infinite-thickness color measurements and ASTM E313-05. Multilayer interference pigment The term "multilayer interference pigment" denotes a pigment capable of producing a color by a phenomenon of interference between the light rays reflected by a plurality of superimposed layers of different refractive indices, in particular a succession of layers of high and low refractive indices. All multilayer interference pigments can be envisaged. The color produced by the multilayer interference pigment may be arbitrary, being for example of dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 nm or not. The composition may comprise a single multilayer interference pigment or several multilayer interference pigments having different dominant wavelengths. The composition may comprise only one multilayer interference pigment. The composition may comprise at least two multilayer interference pigments. The multi-layer interference pigment may comprise a substrate (also called a core or core) coated on at least one face with one or more layers of materials and thicknesses chosen so that a color is produced by interference. Interferential pigment layers may or may not surround the substrate, which may have a flattened shape or not. The substrate may comprise natural mica, synthetic mica, glass, alumina, silica, or any metal, alloy or metal oxide. The nature of the substrate may be chosen according to the desired gloss. For example, for a very bright rendering, a substrate of glass or metal may be preferred. The interference pigment may comprise more than four different refractive index layers. The particle size of the multilayer interference pigment, given by the average particle size at half of the population, also called D50, ranges, for example, from 1 μm to 2000 μm, better still from 5 μm to 2000 μm. The proportion of multilayer interference pigment is, for example, greater than 7% and ranges, for example, from 7 to 20% for a non-pulverulent, liquid or cast composition, for example as a stick and from 40 to 95% for a powdery composition, free or compacted. The coverage of the composition may be due primarily to the multilayer interference pigment content. Alternatively, at least one diffusing pigment and / or fillers can provide coverage. Nacres are examples of multilayer interference pigments that may be suitable. Nacres By nacre, it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference. Examples of pearlescent agents include pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica coated with an iron oxide, mica coated with bismuth oxychloride, titanium mica coated with chromium oxide, titanium mica covered with an organic dye in particular as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride. It may also be mica particles on the surface of which are superimposed at least two successive layers of metal oxides and / or organic dyestuffs. The nacres may have a yellow, pink, red, bronze, orange, brown, gold and / or copper color or reflection. As an illustration of nacres that can be introduced as a multilayer interference pigment, mention may be made of the gold-colored nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name of Brillant gold 212G (Timica), Gold 222C (Cloisonne), Sparkle gold ( Timica), Gold 4504 (Chromalite) and 10 Monarch gold 233X (Cloisonne); bronze nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Bronze Fine (17384) (Colorona) and Bronze (17353) (Colorona) and by Engelhard under the name Super Bronze (Cloisonne); orange nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Orange 363C (Cloisonne) and Orange MCR 101 (Cosmica) and by the company 15 MERCK under the name Passion orange (Colorona) and Matte orange (17449) (Microna); brown-colored pearlescent agents marketed by Engelhard under the name Nu-antique copper 340XB (Cloisonne) and Brown CL4509 (Chromalite); nacres with a copper sheen sold especially by Engelhard under the name Copper 340A (Timica); nacres with a red reflection 20 sold especially by Merck under the name Sienna fine (17386) (Colorona); yellow-colored pearlescent agents marketed by ENGELHARD under the name Yellow (4502) (Chromalite); the red-colored pearlescent agents with a gold glint sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Sunstone G012 (Gemtone); pink nacres sold especially by ENGELHARD under the name Tan opal G005 (Gemtone); the black nacres with gold reflection sold by the company Engelhard under the name Nu antique bronze 240 AB (Timica), the blue nacres sold especially by the company Merck under the name Matte Blue (17433) (Microna), the white nacres with reflection silver sold in particular by the company 30 MERCK under the name Xirona Silver and the golden-green rosé orange pearls marketed by Merck under the name Indian summer (Xirona) and their blends. Multilayer interference pigments having magnetic properties are, for example, those sold under the trade names COLORONA BLACKSTAR BLUE, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GREEN, COLORONA BLACKSTAR GOLD, COLORONA BLACKSTAR RED, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE 5 SUPER GREEN, MICRONA MATTE BLACK (17437), MICA BLACK (17260), COLORONA PATINA SILVER (17289) and COLORONA PATINA GOLD (117288) from MERCK or FLAMENCO TWILIGHT RED, FLAMENCO 25 TWILIGHT GREEN, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT GOLD, FLAMENCO TWILIGHT BLUE, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE SILVER 110 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE GOLD 212 10 GB, TIMICA NU-ANTIQUE COPPER 340 AB, TIMICA NU ANTIQUE BRONZE 240 AB, NECKLACE NU ANTIQUE GREEN 828 CB, CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE BLUE 626 CB, GEMTONE MOONSTONE G 004, ANTIQUE CLOISONNE NU RED 424 CB, CHROMA- LITE BLACK (4498), NARROW RED ANTIQUE CLOISONNE FLAMBE (code 440 XB), NARROW ANTIQUE BRONZE CLOISONNE (240 XB), CLOISONNE NU 15 ANTIQUE GOLD (222 CB) and CLOISONNE NU ANTIQUE COPPER (34 0 XB) from ENGELHARD. The multilayer interference pigment may also be chosen from interferential reflective particles. Interferential Reflective Particles These particles may be chosen from particles with a synthetic substrate at least partially coated with at least one layer of at least one metal oxide, selected for example from titanium oxides, in particular TiO 2, in particular Fe 2 O 3, of tin, chromium, barium sulfate and the following materials: MgF 2, CrF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, SiO 2, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, SeO 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, MoS 2 and their mixtures or alloys. By way of example of such particles, mention may be made, for example, of particles comprising a synthetic mica substrate coated with titanium dioxide, or particles of coated glass of brown iron oxide, of titanium oxide, of tin oxide or one of their mixtures such as those sold under the trade name REFLECKS by ENGELHARD. The multilayer interference pigment may also be a goniochromatic pigment. Goniochromatic Pigment For the purposes of the present invention, the term "goniochromatic pigment" denotes a pigment which makes it possible, when the composition is spread on a support, to obtain a color path in the plane a * b * of the CIE 1976 color space. corresponds to a variation Dh of the hue angle h of at least 20 when the observation angle is varied with respect to the normal between 0 and 80, for an angle of incidence of the light of 45. The color path can be measured for example by means of an INSTRUMENT SYSTEMS brand spectrogoniorflectometer and GON 360 GONIOMETER reference, after the composition has been spread in the fluid state with a thickness of 300 m by means of a spreader. automatically on an ERICHSEN mark and reference card Typ 24/5, the measurement being made on the black background of the card. The goniochromatic pigment may be chosen for example from interferential multilayer structures and liquid crystal coloring agents. In the case of a multilayer structure, this may comprise for example at least two layers, each layer being made for example from at least one material selected from the group consisting of the following materials: MgF 2, CeF 3, ZnS, ZnSe, Si, SiO 2, Ge, Te, Fe 2 O 3, Pt, Va, Al 2 O 3, MgO, Y 2 O 3, S 2 O 3, SiO, HfO 2, ZrO 2, CeO 2, Nb 2 O 5, Ta 2 O 5, TiO 2, Ag, Al, Au, Cu, Rb, Ti, Ta, W, Zn, MoS2, cryolite, alloys, polymers and their combinations. The multilayer structure may or may not have a central symmetry with respect to the chemical nature of the stacked layers. Depending on the thickness and nature of the different layers, different effects are obtained. Examples of symmetrical multilayer interference structures are, for example, the following structures: Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3, a pigment having this structure being marketed under the name SICOPEARL by the company BASF; MoS2 / SiO2 / mica-oxide / SiO2 / MoS2; Fe 2 O 3 / SiO 2 / mica-oxide / SiO 2 / Fe 2 O 3; TiO2 / SiO2 / TiO2 2908634 12 and TiO2 / Al2O3 / TiO2, pigments having these structures being sold under the name XIRONA by the company Merck (Darmstadt). The liquid crystal coloring agents comprise, for example, silicones or cellulose ethers onto which mesomorphic groups are grafted. As liquid crystal goniochromatic particles, those sold by the company CHENIX as well as those marketed under the name HELICONE HC by the company WACKER can be used, for example. As goniochromatic pigment, it is also possible to use certain nacres, pigments having effects on a synthetic substrate, in particular substrate such as alumina, silica, borosilicate, iron oxide, aluminum, or interference flakes derived from a polyterephthalate film. The material may further comprise dispersed goniochromatic fibers. Such fibers may have a length of less than 80 m for example. Cosmetically acceptable medium A cosmetically acceptable medium is a non-toxic medium that can be applied to keratin materials of human beings. The cosmetically acceptable medium will be adapted to the nature of the support to which the composition is to be applied and to the form in which the composition is to be packaged. The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous medium and / or a fatty phase, be anhydrous or not. Aqueous or Fatty Phase The composition may comprise water or a mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents such as alcohols and in particular lower linear or branched monoalcohols having from 2 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol or n-propanol, polyols such as glycerine, diglycerine, propylene glycol, sorbitol, penthylene glycol, polyethylene glycols. The hydrophilic phase may further contain C 2 ethers and C 2 -C 4 hydrophilic aldehydes. The water or mixture of water and hydrophilic organic solvents may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0% to 90%, especially 0.1% to 90% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition, and preferably from 0% to 60% by weight, especially 0.1% to 60% by weight. The composition may also comprise a fatty phase, in particular constituted by liquid fats at 25 ° C. and optionally solid fatty substances at room temperature, such as waxes, pasty fatty substances, gums and mixtures thereof. As fatty substances that are liquid at room temperature, often called oils, that can be used in the invention, mention may be made, inter alia, of vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids of 4 to 10 carbon atoms, such as the triglycerides of heptanoic acids. or octanoic, or sunflower oil, corn, soybean, grape seed, sesame, apricot, macadamia, castor oil, avocado, caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, jojoba, shea butter; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils and especially C8-C16 isoparaffins such as isododecane, isodecane, isohexadecane, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, polyisobutene, hydrogenated such as Parleam, squalane; esters and synthetic ethers, in particular of fatty acids, for example purcellin oil, isopropyl myristate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, erucate octyl-2-dodecyl, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters; fatty alcohols having 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol, oleyl alcohol; partially hydrocarbon and / or silicone fluorinated oils; silicone oils, such as volatile or nonvolatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMS), linear or cyclic, liquid or pasty at room temperature, such as cyclomethicones, dimethicones, optionally comprising a phenyl group, such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes or diphenylmethyldimethyltrisiloxanes; diphenyl dimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, polymethylphenyl siloxanes; their mixtures. These oils may be present in a content ranging from 0.01 to 90%, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise one or more physiologically acceptable organic solvents. This or these solvents, which may be lipophilic, may be present in a content ranging from 0 to 90%, better still from 0 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition and more preferably from 0.1 to 30% by weight. %. The medium may comprise a liquid organic phase in which water is dispersed or emulsified. The composition may also have a continuous fat phase, which may contain less than 5% water, especially less than 1% water relative to its total weight and in particular be in anhydrous form. Film-forming agent The medium may comprise a film-forming agent, in particular a film-forming polymer. The term "film-forming agent" means an agent capable of forming, by itself or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a macroscopically continuous and adherent film on the keratin materials, and preferably a cohesive film, and better still a film whose cohesion and the mechanical properties are such that said film can be isolated and manipulated in isolation, for example when said film is made by casting on a release surface such as a teflon or silicone surface. The composition may comprise an aqueous phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this aqueous phase. This may be a polymer in dispersion or in solution. The composition may comprise an oily phase and the film-forming polymer may be present in this oily phase. The polymer may then be in dispersion or in solution. Among the film-forming polymers that may be used, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof. The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers. Among the film-forming polycondensates that may be mentioned are polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas. The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols. The polyester amides can be obtained analogously to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. By way of example of liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a linear saturated hydrocarbon radical or branched carbonyl (1 to 19 carbon atoms) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinylether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bound to To the carbonyl ester group). These copolymers may be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which may be of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and octadecanedioate. divinyl. Examples of such copolymers include copolymers: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinylether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether , cross-linked with 0.2% of t etalallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / crosslinked allyl stearate with 0.2% divinyl benzene. The film-forming polymer may also be chosen from silicone resins, generally soluble or swellable in silicone oils, which are crosslinked polyorganosiloxane polymers. The film-forming polymer may also be present in the composition in the form of particles in dispersion in an aqueous phase or in a non-aqueous solvent phase, generally known under the name of latex or pseudolatex. The techniques for preparing these dispersions are well known to those skilled in the art. The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function. Of course, this list of polymers is not exhaustive. Other coloring agents The composition may comprise one or more diffusing pigments, generating a color by an absorption phenomenon, in a proportion that makes it possible to preserve the interfering phenomenon responsible for the color of the composition when applied to the keratin materials . Various diffusing pigments may be envisaged, for example chosen from among the organic lakes or pigments selected in particular from the materials below and their mixtures: cochineal carmine, organic pigments of azo, anthraquinone, indigo, and xanthene dyes , pyrenic, quinolinic, triphenylmethane, fluorane, organic lakes or insoluble salts of sodium, potassium, calcium, barium, aluminum, zirconium, strontium, titanium, acid dyes such as dyes azo, anthraquinone, indigo, xanthene, pyrenic, quinoline, triphenylmethane, fluorane, these dyes may include at least one carboxylic or sulfonic acid group. Among the organic pigments, there may be mentioned those known under the following denominations: D & C Blue No. 4, D & C Brown No. 1, D & C Green No. 5, D & C 2908634 Green 17 No. 6, D & C Orange No. 4, D & C Orange No. 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red # 6, D & C Red # 7, D & C Red # 17, D & C Red # 21, D & C Red # 22, D & C Red # 27, D & C Red # 28, D & C Red # 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red No. 34, D & C Red No. 36, D & C Violet No. 2, D & C Yellow No. 7, D & C Yellow No. 8, No. 5 D & C Yellow No. 10, D & C Yellow No. 11, FD & C Blue No. 1, FD & C Green No. 3, FD & C Red No. 40, FD & C Yellow No. 5, FD & C Yellow No. 6. The lacquer may be supported by an organic carrier such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example. Among the organic lakes, mention may be made especially of those known under the following denominations: D & C Red No. 2 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 3 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 4 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Red No. 6 Barium lake, D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red n 7 15 Zirconium lake, D & C Red 8 Sodium lake, D & C Red 9 Aluminum lake, D & C Red 9 Barium lake, D & C Red 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red 9 Zirconium lake , D & C Red n 10 Sodium lake, D & C Red n 19 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 19 Barium lake, D & C Red n 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 22 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum lake, D & C 20 Red n 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 27 Barium lake, D & C Red n 27 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 27 Zirconium lake, D & C Red No. 28 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No. 30 lake, D & C Red No. 31 Calcium lake, D & C Red No. 33 Aluminum lake, D & C Red No. 34 Calcium lake, D & C Red No. 36 lake, D & C Red No. 40 Aluminum lake, D & C Blue n 1 Aluminum lake, D & C Green n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 4 25 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Orange n 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 17 Barium lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Blue # 1 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red # 4 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake, 30 FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake. The chemical materials corresponding to each of the organic dyestuffs mentioned above are mentioned in the International Cosmetic publication 2908634 18 Ingredient Dictionary and Handbook, Edition 1997, pages 371 to 386 and 524 to 528, published by The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Fragrance Association, whose contents are incorporated in this application by reference. The diffusing pigment may be a composite pigment having a core 5 at least partially coated with a bark. Such a composite pigment may be composed in particular of particles comprising an inorganic core and at least one at least partial coating of at least one organic dyestuff. At least one binder can advantageously contribute to the fixing of the organic dyestuff on the inorganic nucleus. The composite pigment particles may be of various shapes. These particles may in particular be platelet-shaped or globular, in particular spherical, and may be hollow or solid. Platelet-shaped means particles whose ratio of the largest dimension to the thickness is greater than or equal to 5. A composite pigment may have, for example, a specific surface area of between 1 and 1000 m 2 / g, in particular between 10 and 600 m2 / g, and in particular between 20 and 400 m2lg approximately. The specific surface is the value measured by the BET method. The mass proportion of the core may exceed 50% relative to the total weight of the composite pigment, for example going from 50% to 70%, for example from 60% to 70%. The coloring agent may still be a colorant. It may be a dye of plant, animal or mineral origin, in particular of vegetable or mineral origin, in particular of plant origin. This dye may be of a non-synthetic nature. The dye may be a water-soluble or fat-soluble natural dye. As an illustration of the water-soluble natural coloring agents that can be used according to the invention, mention may be made of caramel, beetroot juice and carmine, betanin (beet), copper chlorophyllin, blue methylene, anthocyanins (enocianin, black carrot, hibiscus, elderberry) and riboflavin. By way of illustration, liposoluble natural coloring agents which may be used according to the invention may be mentioned in particular Sudan red, R-carotene, carotenoids, lycopene, palm oil and Sudanese brown. , quinolino yellow xanthophylls (capsanthin, capsorubin, lutein), and curcumin. As other natural dyes, mention may more particularly be made of anthocyanins of flowers or fruits or their derivatives, flavonoids and tannins extracted from native or fermented plants, juglone, lawsone, extracts of fermented soybeans, algae, fungi, microorganisms, unsubstituted Flavylium salts in position 3 as described in EP 1 172 091, extracts of Gesneria Fulgens, Blechum Procerum, Saxifraga and pigments obtainable by extraction by a. organic or hydro-organic solvent of a micromycete culture medium of the Monascus Monascus type. Examples of synthetic dyes are synthetic liposoluble dyes such as, for example, DC Red 17, DC Red 21, DC Red 27, DC Green 6, DC Yellow 11, DC Violet 2 and Orange DC 5. Examples of synthetic water-soluble dyes that may be mentioned include FDC Red 4, DC Red 6, DC Red 22, DC Red 28, DC Red 30, DC Red 33, DC Orange 4, DC Yellow 5, DC Yellow 6, DC Yellow 8, FDC Green 3, DC Green 15 and FDC Blue 1. Charges The cosmetic composition may comprise fillers. By fillers are meant any particles of any form insoluble in the medium of the composition, regardless of the temperature at which the composition is made. These fillers can serve in particular to modify the rheology or the texture of the composition. As an example of fillers, mention may be made, inter alia, of talc, mica, silica, kaolin, and polyamide powders (Nylon or Orgasol from Atochem). The filler content will be chosen so as not to unduly hamper the desired result. Active ingredients and other compounds The cosmetic composition may also contain one or more cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients. As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents that may be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol as glycerol), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), essential fatty acids. , essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, liposoluble sunscreens or in the form of nanoparticles, the specific skin treatment active agents (protective agents, anti-bacterial agents, anti-wrinkle agents, etc.). These active agents can be used for example at concentrations of 0.001 to 15% relative to the total weight of the composition. The cosmetic composition may also contain ingredients commonly used in cosmetics, such as, for example, thickeners, surfactants, trace elements, moisturizers, softeners, sequestering agents, perfumes, alkalizing or acidifying agents, preservatives, antioxidants, UV filters, or mixtures thereof. The cosmetic composition may furthermore comprise, depending on the type of application envisaged, the constituents conventionally used in the fields under consideration, which are present in an amount appropriate to the desired dosage form. Galenic Forms The cosmetic composition may be in any galenical form normally used for topical application and especially in anhydrous or non-anhydrous form, in solid, free or compacted powdery form, cast, for example as a stick, liquid, with a solution. oily or aqueous, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsion, a multiple emulsion, an oil dispersion in water through vesicles located at the oil / water interface or spray. By anhydrous composition is meant a composition having less than 5% by weight of water, more preferably less than 3% or even less than 1%. An anhydrous composition may not have water added intentionally during the preparation of the composition. The composition may especially be in the form of a stick. The cosmetic composition can constitute, among other make-up products, a lipstick in stick or liquid, a liquid lip gloss, a red paste to

  lips, a blush, a foundation, an eye contour product, an eyeliner, a mascara, a nail polish, an eye shadow, a makeup base, and more generally any make-up product of the body or hair.

The composition of the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics.

2908634 21 Packaging and methods of application The composition may be packaged in any receptacle or on any support provided for this purpose. The composition may be applied using an applicator, flocked or not, such as a foam, tip, brush, felt, spatula, sinter, brush, comb, woven or nonwoven. The application may also be carried out with the finger or by directly depositing the composition on the support to be made up, for example by friction in the case of a stick or by spraying or projection using a piezoelectric device or by transfer of a layer of composition previously deposited on an intermediate support. The composition may, if appropriate, be applied as a base coat coated with a layer of another composition (top coat), intended for example to impart shine, or as a coating layer on a layer of another composition, or even between a base layer and a coating layer.

The composition may be packaged in a conditioning device which reveals the color of the composition in the mass. It may be a container having an at least partially transparent body and / or a packaging device comprising an at least partially transparent closure member.

The composition may be packaged in a device which makes it possible to see both the color of the composition in the mass and the color of the composition after application to keratin materials. The composition may further be packaged in a device which comprises means representative of the color revealed on application, for example a deposit of a layer of the composition or an ink or varnish comprising the same coloring agents as the composition. The subject of the invention is also a composition thus conditioned. Where appropriate, the composition may be conditioned with a magnet for modifying the orientation of the multilayer interference pigment particles and / or the reflective particles of the metal-reflecting pigment, when at least one of these pigments has magnetic susceptibility. not zero.

Another object of the invention, according to another of its aspects, is a method of presenting a cosmetic composition produced in accordance with the invention, comprising the steps of: illuminating at least one first region of a compositional sample with diffuse illumination so as to show the color in the mass, - illuminating at least a second region of a composition sample with directional illumination so as to reveal the interferential color. The first and second regions may be different regions of the same composition sample. Alternatively, the first and second regions belong to different samples. In another variant, the first and second regions correspond to the same region and the diffuse and directional lighting are applied alternately.

The invention further relates, in another of its aspects, to a display comprising: a directional lighting source, a diffuse lighting source, a support for exposing at least one composition sample the diffuse lighting source and at least one composition sample at the directional lighting source. The invention also relates to a process for making up keratin materials using a composition according to the invention. It can be makeup of the skin, lips, nails, eyelashes, eyebrows or hair. The present invention also relates to a makeup kit comprising: a first composition according to the invention, a second composition comprising a cosmetically acceptable medium and to be applied under or on the first composition. This second composition is for example intended to improve the behavior of the first composition and / or to change the appearance. Proposed examples The proportions indicated are mass. Example 1: Octyl-2 dodecanol lip gloss Ditertiobutyl 4-hydroxytoluene 0.07 Polybutene (95/5 monoolefins / isoparaffins) (MW: 37 2060) Mixture of isopropyl p-hydroxybenzoates, iso-butyl, 0.6 n -butyl (40/30/30) Pentaerythrityl tetraisisostea 11,33 Tridecyl tri-mellitate 11 2-decyltetradecanoic acid triglyceride (GUERBET 15 C24) Multilayered interferential pigment * 15 10 * TIMIRON SILK RED MERCK The effect of this lip gloss results from the combination of several phenomena. The first one is the colonel rendering with the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the brilliance of the film which is the result of the presence of the oil / polymer system. This lip gloss has a mass color that is white. Example 2: Lipstick Trimelitate tri-decylate 11 Liquid lanolin Isostearyl malate 13 Lanolin acetylene 10 Triglycerides of lauric / palmitic / cerylic / stearic acids (50/20/10/10) Microcrystalline wax ( C20-C60) 3 Isopropyl lanolate protected Octyl-2-decanol 16 Phenyl trimethylsiloxy trisiloxane (VISCOSITY: 20 CST -4 PM: 372) 2908634 24 Polyethylene wax (MW: 500) 8 Multilayer interference pigment * 10 * TIMIRON SILK RED from MERCK The effect produced by this lipstick results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the film which is the fruit of the presence of the oil / polymer / wax system. This lipstick has a mass color that is white. This lipstick produces a makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

Example 3 Blush Triethanolamine 1 Ethylene diamine tetracetic acid, disodium salt, 2H 2 O 2 Cross-linked carboxyvinyl homopolymer 0.5 Polyvinylpyrrolidone 0.6 Glycerol 5.75 Deionized water 80.45 1.3 Butylene glycol 2 Silica microsphere (3 m ) 1.5 Multilayered Interferential Pigment * 8 * TIMIRON SILK BLUE from MERCK The effect produced by this blush results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. Added to this is the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the aqueous system.

This blush has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect. This blush can highlight a very intense blue cheekbones.

EXAMPLE 4 Water-Based Nail Polish Tetrasodium Pyophosphate 0.2 Polydimethylsiloxane 0.5 Methoxy Terminals Mixture of Aliphatic Polyurethane, N-68 Methyl Pyrrolidone, Triethylamine, Water (35 / 8.5 / 2 / 54.5 ) Glycerol 1 Deionized water 15 Ethyl alcohol (96) 2.8 Synthetic Laponite (mixed silicate 1,3 magnesium / lithium / sodium) Multilayer interference Pigment * 11,2 * TIMIRON SILK GREEN from MERCK The effect of this varnish Nail results from the association of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. Added to this is the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the aqueous system. This nail polish has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

Example 5: Nail Polish Nitrocellulose 11 N-ethyl o, p-toluenesulfonamide Alkyd resin Isopropanol 4 Multilayered interferential pigment * 10 Butyl acetate / ethyl acetate 50/50 Qsp 100 * TIMIRON SILK RED from MERCK The effect produced by this nail polish results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the solvent system. This nail polish has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect.

EXAMPLE 6 Powder Eyeliner TERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYANISOLE 0.012 DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.012 WHITE VASELINE 1.2 OLEIC ALCOHOL 1.2 LANOLIN PROTECTED LIQUID 0.66 VASELIN OIL 6.516 CASTOR'S OIL 1.296 ISOPROPYL MYRISTATE 0.864 P- PROPYL HYDROXYBENZOATE 0.24 MIXTURE P-HYDROXYBENZOATES OF 0.6 METHYL, ETHYL, PROPYL, BUTYL ISOBUTYL / PHENOXY-2 ETHANOL interlayers multilayer pigment * 53.3 MAGNESIUM STEARATE 4 TALC 30.1 * TIMIRON SILK RED from MERCK The effect produced by this powder eye shadow results from the combination of several phenomena. The first is the color rendering to the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the deposit which is the fruit of the presence of the multilayer interference pigment system / charges / binder. This eyeshadow has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, particularly in the coverage level, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup 10 to reveal its effect. EXAMPLE 7 Liquid Eyeliner DITERTIOBUTYL 4-HYDROXYTOLUENE 0.09 MODIFIED HECTORITY DISTEARYL DIMETHYL 3.74 AMMONIUM ACID TRIGLYCERIDES 6.46 LAURIC / PALMITIC / CETYLIC / STEARIC (50/20/10/10) PROPYLENE CARBONATE 1 22 BEAN WAX WHITE 7,77 SHOREA BUTTER PROTECTED 1,7 LIQUID FRACTION OF SHEA BUTTER 0,85 PROTECTED 2908634 27 NYLON POWDER 12 10,4 ISO-DODECANE 38,32 PROPYL P-HYDROXYBENZOATE 0,17 PARAFFIN PROTECTED REFINED 3.88 TALC 10.4 Multilayer Interferential Pigment * 15 * TIMIRON SILK BLUE from MERCK The effect produced by this eyeshadow results from the combination of several phenomena. The first one is the colonel rendering with the application which is intense and covering. To this is added the texture of the film which is the result of the presence of the solvent / polymer / wax / filler system. Eyeshadow has a mass color that is white. The makeup result, especially in terms of coverage, is quite satisfactory and it is not necessary to apply another layer of makeup to reveal its effect. This blush can highlight a very intense blue eyelids.

Of course, the invention is not limited to the examples which have just been given. The expression containing one is synonymous with having at least one and understood between understood inclusive limits.

Claims (23)

  1. Cosmetic covering composition greater than or equal to 30 comprising, in an aqueous cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content conferring on the composition a color variation AE at application greater than or equal to 5.   2. Cosmetic covering composition greater than or equal to 30 comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable anhydrous medium, at least one multilayer interference pigment in a content giving the composition a color variation AE at application greater than or equal to 5.   3. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, the multilayer interference pigment comprising a substrate of silica, mica, glass, alumina or metal.   4. Composition according to claim 3, the substrate being silica, mica or glass.   5. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the composition being non-pulverulent and the total mass content of multilayer interference pigment ranging from 7 to 20%.   6. Composition according to claim 5, being liquid (at 25 C).   7. Composition according to claim 5, being in the form of a stick.   8. Composition according to one of claims 5 to 7, the total mass content of multilayer interference pigment ranging from 8 to 15%.   9. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8, comprising an oil, especially at a mass content greater than or equal to 30%.   10. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 9, comprising a wax, especially at a mass content greater than or equal to 10%.   11. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 10, comprising a filler, especially at a mass content greater than or equal to 10%.   12. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 4, the composition being pulverulent and the total mass content of multilayer interference pigment ranging from 40 to 95%. 2908634 29   13. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 12, the color of the composition in the mass being white.   The composition of claim 13 wherein the bulk composition has a Whiteness Index greater than or equal to 40.   15. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 14, the composition having no other dyeing agent than the multilayer interference pigment or pigments.   16. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 15, the multilayer interference pigment comprising at least four layers. 10   17. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 16, the multilayer interference pigment comprising a substrate of a transparent material.   18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, the color produced by the multilayer interference pigment not having a dominant wavelength between 580 and 650 nm. 15   19. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising only a single multilayer interference pigment.   20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 18, comprising at least two multilayer interference pigments.   21. The composition of claim 20 wherein the two multilayer interference pigments have layers of the same materials but at least one layer of a pigment having a different thickness than a corresponding layer of the other pigment.   22. A process for making up keratin materials, comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 21.   23. Packaging assembly comprising: - a composition as defined in any one of claims 1 to 21, - means for informing the user on the color of the composition after application.