FR2905855A1 - Composition useful in non-therapeutic cosmetic treatment or make-up of keratinous matter, comprises ascorbic acid, a copolymer of styrenic monomer and carboxylic diacid with ethylene unsaturation, a wax and geminated amide surfactant - Google Patents

Abstract

Composition comprises ascorbic acid, a copolymer of styrenic monomer and carboxylic diacid with ethylene unsaturation, a wax and geminated amide surfactant (I) in a medium containing water. Composition comprises ascorbic acid, a copolymer of styrenic monomer and carboxylic diacid with ethylene unsaturation, a wax and geminated amide surfactant (I) of formula (R3-C(O)-N-(Y1)-R2-(N(X)-C(O)-R1)n) in a medium containing water. R1, R31-25C alkyl, cocoyl; R21-12C alkylene, preferably ethylene; X, Y1-(C2H4O)-(C3H6O)bZ, preferably polyethylene glycol 15; Z : H or -COOM-CH2-, -SO3M, -P(O)(OM)2, -SO3M-C2H4, -C3H6-SO3M- or -CH2(COH)4CH2OH, preferably -SO3Na; M : H or alkali or alkaline earth ion, ammonium or alkanolammonium; a : 0-15; b : 0-10; and n : 1-10, preferably 1. The sum 'a' and 'b' is 1-25, preferably 15.

Description

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising

  ascorbic acid, a copolymer of styrene and ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid, a wax and a gemini surfactant, and a process for treating or making up keratin materials.

  It is known to introduce into cosmetic compositions various active agents intended to provide specific treatments for the skin and / or the hair. However, some of these active agents have the drawback of being unstable in an aqueous medium and of easily degrading in contact with water, in particular because of oxidation phenomena. They lose their activity quickly over time and this instability runs counter to the desired efficiency. It has long been sought to formulate ascorbic acid or vitamin C, because of its many beneficial properties. In particular, ascorbic acid stimulates the synthesis of connective tissue and especially collagen, strengthens the skin's defenses against external aggressions such as ultraviolet radiation and pollution, compensates for the vitamin E deficiency of the skin, depigments skin and has an anti-free radical function. These last two properties make it an excellent candidate as a cosmetic or dermatological active agent to fight against the aging of the skin or to prevent it. Unfortunately, because of its chemical structure (alphaketolactone), ascorbic acid is very sensitive to certain parameters of the environment and especially to oxidation phenomena. This results in rapid degradation of the ascorbic acid formulated in the presence of these parameters, and more particularly in the presence of oxygen, light, metal ions, depending on the temperature, or even under certain conditions. pH (Pharm Acta Helv., 1969, 44, 611-667, STP Pharma, 1985, 4, 281-286). Several solutions have therefore been envisaged in the prior art for decreasing and / or delaying the degradation of ascorbic acid.

  One of the solutions described in application EP-A-1374852 is to associate with ascorbic acid a copolymer of styrene and hydrolysed maleic anhydride (that is to say an ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid) to obtain an improvement. notable for the stability of ascorbic acid in an aqueous medium. However, despite this improvement in stability, it has been found that such a composition has the disadvantage of yellowing after storage for at least 15 days or even 1 or 2 months at room temperature and at a temperature of 45 C. The yellowing of the composition makes it attractive to consumers and hinders the marketing of such a composition.

  The object of the present invention is therefore to provide a composition comprising ascorbic acid and an ethylenically unsaturated styrene / dicarboxylic acid copolymer in an aqueous medium having improved stability and being free from sedimentation after storage. 2 months in.

In this regard the Applicant has surprisingly and unexpectedly discovered that the stability of such a composition is improved by combining both a particular gemini surfactant and a wax. Such a composition does not show yellowing after storage. This improvement in stability is not achieved by adding only the gemini surfactant or only the wax. More precisely, the subject of the invention is therefore a composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium containing water, ascorbic acid, a copolymer of styrene monomer and of ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid, a wax and a gemini surfactant of formula (I): in which: R 1 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group (C 2 H 4 O) a (C 3 H 6 O) b Z in which Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical CH 2 COOM, -SO 3 M, -P (0); ## STR2 ## wherein M, M 'are H or an alkali or alkaline earth or ammonium or b is from 0 to 10, and • the sum of a + b is from 1 to 25; and -nvade1to10.

The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the non-therapeutic treatment or make-up of keratin materials such as the skin, the hair, the hairs, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the nails of a human being, including the application on keratin materials of a composition as described above.

The composition according to the invention comprises ascorbic acid which may be present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 3% to 6%. in weight.

The copolymer present in the composition according to the invention is a copolymer of styrene monomer and of ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid. Styrenic monomers include styrene, alpha-methyl styrene, and preferably styrene. Ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid monomers that may be mentioned include maleic acid, itaconic acid, or their hydrolysed anhydride derivative after polymerization (in particular maleic anhydride or itaconic anhydride).

Copolymers which are more particularly suitable for carrying out the invention are copolymers obtained by copolymerization of one or more maleic or itaconic anhydride units followed by their hydrolysis. The maleic anhydride or itaconic acid anhydride units may be partially or fully hydrolysed. Said copolymer is preferably in salt form, especially in the form of alkaline salts, for example in the form of ammonium, sodium, potassium or lithium salts, and preferably in the form of sodium salt. In an advantageous aspect of the invention, the copolymer has a mole fraction in ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid unit of between 0.1 and 0.9, preferably between 0.4 and 0.9, and more preferably between 0, 4 and 0.6. Preferably said polymer has a solubility in water at 25 C greater than or equal to 2 g / l. The weight average molar mass of the styrene / ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid copolymer is preferably in the range of from 1,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 1,000 to 50,000. Preferably, a styrene / maleic acid copolymer is used ( or hydrolysed maleic anhydride), in particular in a styrene / maleic acid molar ratio ranging from 40/60 to 60/40, in particular equal to 50/50.

For example, the styrene / maleic anhydride copolymer (50/50), hydrolyzed in the form of 30% ammonium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000H by the company Gray Valley or the styrene / anhydride copolymer may be used. maleic acid (50/50) hydrolyzed in the form of the 40% sodium salt in water sold under the reference SMA1000HNa by the company GRAY VALLEY (and having the INCI name: sodium styrene / MA copolymer). The copolymer of styrene monomer and of ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, more particularly in a content ranging from 0.5 to 7% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.

The composition according to the invention also comprises a gemini surfactant of formula (I) as described above. The gemini surfactant of formula (I) is preferably such that each of the groups R 1, -CO- and R 3 -CO- comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms, and preferably denotes a coconut fatty acid residue (comprising Mostly (auric acid and myristic acid) In addition, this surfactant is preferably such that, for each of X and Y radicals, the sum of a and b has an average value ranging from 10 to 20 and preferably equal to 15. A preferred group for Z is the -SO 3 M group where M is preferably an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion.The spacer R2 is advantageously a linear C 1 -C 3 alkylene chain. and, preferably, an ethylene chain (CH 2 CH 2) Finally, n is advantageously equal to 1. A surfactant of this type is in particular that identified by the INCI name: Sodium dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate, having the following structure: ## STR11 ## It is understood that PEG represents the group CH2CH2O, and cocoyl represents the coconut fatty acid residue. This surfactant has a molecular structure very close to that of ceramide-3.

Preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention is used in admixture with other surfactants, and in particular in admixture with (a) a C 6 -C 22 (preferably C 14 -C 20) fatty acid ester such as stearate) and glyceryl, (b) a C6-C22 fatty acid diester (preferably C14-C20 such as stearate) and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a fatty al-coolant C10-C30 (preferably behenyl alcohol).

More preferably, the geminate surfactant according to the invention represents from 10 to 20% by weight, and advantageously 15% by weight; the fatty acid ester of 06-022 and glyceryl represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight; the 06-022 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol is from 10 to 20% by weight, preferably 15% by weight; and the fatty alcohol C10-C30 represents from 30 to 40% by weight, advantageously 35% by weight, relative to the total weight of the surfactant mixture containing the geminate surfactant. Alternatively, the geminate surfactant according to the invention may be used in admixture with an anionic surfactant such as lauric acid ester, sodium lauryl lactate. In this case, the gemini surfactant preferably represents from 30 to 50% by weight, and the anionic surfactant represents from 50 to 70% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture. For example, the geminate surfactant can be used in admixture with other surfactants in the form of the products marketed by SASOL under the names CERALUTION, and in particular the following products: • Ceration H: Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Ceration F: Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate and Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate. • Ceralution C: Aqua, Capric / Caprylic Triglyceride, Glycerin, Ceteareth-25, Sodium Dicocoylethylenediamine PEG-15 Sulfate, Sodium Lauroyl Lactylate, Behenyl Alcohol, Glyceryl Stearate, Glyceryl Stearate Citrate, Gum Arabic, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Methylparaben, Ethylparaben, Butylparaben, Isobutylparaben (INCI names).

This gemini surfactant represents from 3 to 50% of the weight of these mixtures. The geminate surfactant of formula (I) may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0, 1 to 3% by weight and more preferably from 0.5 to 3% by weight, which represents a quantity of the mixture Ceralution ranging from about 0.2 to 10% by weight, preferably from 1 to 10% by weight and better from 2 to 8% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

The composition according to the invention comprises a wax. For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" means a lipophilic compound, solid at room temperature (25 ° C.), with a reversible solid / liquid state change, having a melting point greater than or equal to 30 ° C. and up to 120 C.

The melting point of the wax can be measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (D.S.C.), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER.

The waxes may be hydrocarbon-based, fluorinated and / or silicone-based and may be of vegetable, mineral, animal and / or synthetic origin. In particular, the waxes have a melting temperature of greater than 25 ° C. and better still greater than 45 ° C. In particular, hydrocarbon-based waxes such as beeswax, lanolin wax and Chinese insect waxes may be used; rice wax, Carnauba wax, Candelilla wax, Ouricurry wax, Alfa wax, cork fiber wax, sugar cane wax, Japanese wax and sumac wax ; montan wax, microcrystalline waxes, paraffins and ozokerite; polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes, waxes obtained by Fisher-Tropsch synthesis and waxy copolymers and their esters. Mention may also be made of waxes obtained by catalytic hydrogenation of animal or vegetable oils having linear or branched C8-C32 fatty chains. Among these, there may be mentioned hydrogenated jojoba oil, isomerized jojoba oil such as trans isomerized partially hydrogenated jojoba oil manufactured or marketed by Desert Whale under the trade name ISOJOJOBA-50, hydrogenated sunflower oil, hydrogenated castor oil, hydrogenated coconut oil and hydrogenated lanolin oil, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetrastearate sold under the name "H EST 2T-4S "by the company HETERENE, di- (1,1,1-trimethylolpropane) tetra-enehenate sold under the name HEST 2T-4B by the company HETERENE. Mention may also be made of silicone waxes such as alkyl or alkoxy dimethicone containing from 16 to 45 carbon atoms and fluorinated waxes. It is also possible to use the wax obtained by hydrogenation of esterified olive oil with the stearyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX Olive 25 18 L 57" or even the waxes obtained by hydrogenation of castor oil esterified with the cetyl alcohol sold under the name "PHYTOWAX ricin 16L64 and 22L73", by the company SOPHIM. Such waxes are described in application FR-A-2792190. Advantageously, the wax is chosen from polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes and Fisher-Tropsch waxes (corresponding in particular to waxes having the INCI name: Synthetic Wax). The wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 7% by weight, and preferably ranging from from 2 to 6% by weight. The composition according to the invention comprises a physiologically acceptable medium. In particular the composition is suitable for topical application to the skin. The physiologically acceptable medium is in particular a cosmetically or dermatologically acceptable medium, that is to say without odor, color or unpleasant appearance, and which does not generate tingling, tightness or redness unacceptable to the user.

By physiologically acceptable medium, an environment compatible with keratin materials of human beings such as the skin, the mucous membranes, the nails, the scalp and / or the hair is understood.

The composition used according to the invention may be intended for a cosmetic or pharmaceutical application, particularly dermatological. Preferably the composition according to the invention is intended for a cosmetic application. It can be used for the care or makeup of keratin materials.

The composition according to the invention comprises water which may be present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 35% to 75% by weight. . The composition may furthermore comprise a polyol which is miscible with water at room temperature (25 ° C.), in particular chosen from polyols having in particular from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, preferably having from 2 to 10 carbon atoms, and preferably having from 2 to 6 carbon atoms, such as glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol; glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as monoalkyl (C1-C4) alkyl ether, di- or tripropylene glycol, (C1-C4) alkyl ethers of mono-, di- or tripropylene glycol, or triethylene glycol; and their mixtures. The composition according to the invention may comprise a polyol which is miscible with water at room temperature in a content ranging from 1% to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from % to 15% by weight. The composition may include an oil. The term "oil" means a fatty substance that is liquid at room temperature (25 ° C.).

Suitable oils for use in the composition of the invention include, for example: hydrocarbon oils of animal origin, such as perhydrosqualene and squalane; hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as liquid triglycerides of fatty acids containing from 4 to 10 carbon atoms, for instance triglycerides of heptanoic or octanoic acids or, for example, sunflower, corn and soybean oils; , squash, grape seed, sesame, hazelnut, apricot, macadamia, arara, sunflower, castor oil, avocado, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stearineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by Dynamit Nobel, jojoba oil, shea butter oil; synthetic esters and ethers, in particular of fatty acids, such as the formula oils R'COOR2 and R'OR2 in which R 'represents the residue of a fatty acid containing from 8 to 29; carbon atoms, and R2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, branched or unbranched, containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, such as, for example, purcellin oil, isononyl isononanoate, isopropyl myristate, palmitate, 2-ethylhexyl, octyl-2-dodecyl stearate, octyl-2-dodecyl erucate, isostearyl isostearate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, octyl hydroxystearate, octyldodecyl hydroxystearate, diisostearyl malate, triisocetyl citrate, heptanoates, octanoates, decanoates of fatty alcohols; polyol esters, such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate and diethylene glycol diisononanoate; and pentaerythritol esters such as pentaerythrityl tetraisostearate (Prisorine 3631); Linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as paraffin oils, volatile or not, and their derivatives, petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam oil; fatty alcohols having from 8 to 26 carbon atoms, such as cetyl alcohol, stearyl alcohol and their mixture (cetylstearyl alcohol), octyldodecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; , oleic alcohol or linoleic alcohol; partially fluorinated hydrocarbon oils and / or silicone oils such as those described in document JP-A-2-295912; silicone oils such as volatile or non-volatile polymethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) with a linear or cyclic silicone chain, which are liquid or pasty at room temperature, in particular cyclopolydimethylsiloxanes (cyclomethicones) such as cyclohexasiloxane and cyclopentasiloxane; polydimethylsiloxanes (or dimethicones) comprising alkyl, alkoxy or phenyl groups, during or at the end of the silicone chain, groups having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms; phenyl silicones such as phenyltrimethicones, phenyldimethicones, phenyltrimethylsiloxydiphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenylmethyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyltrimethylsiloxysilicates, and polymethylphenylsiloxanes; - their mixtures. By hydrocarbon oil is meant in the list of oils mentioned above, any oil predominantly comprising carbon and hydrogen atoms, and optionally ester, ether, fluoro, carboxylic acid and / or alcohol groups. The oil may be present in a content ranging from 5 to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from 10 to 30% by weight. The composition may also comprise a cosmetic additive especially chosen from fillers, surfactants, cosmetic or dermatological active agents, UV filters, film-forming polymers, gelling agents, preservatives, perfumes, pigments.

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the compounds according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition. considered.

The composition used according to the invention may be in any galenical form normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields; it may especially be in the form of an aqueous solution, hydroalcoholic, optionally gelled, a dispersion of the lotion type possibly two-phase, an oil-in-water or water-in-oil or multiple emulsion, a gel aqueous, an oil dispersion in an aqueous phase using spherules, these spherules may be polymeric nanoparticles such as nanospheres and nanocapsules or, better, ionic and / or nonionic lipid vesicles .

Advantageously, the composition is an oil-in-water emulsion. When the composition is an emulsion, the proportion of the fatty phase can range from 5 to 80% by weight, and preferably from 5 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. The oils and emulsifiers used in the composition in emulsion form are chosen from those conventionally used in the field under consideration. The emulsifier is present in the composition in a proportion ranging from 0.3 to 30% by weight, and preferably from 0.5 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

This composition may be more or less fluid and have the appearance of a white or colored cream, an ointment, a milk, a lotion, a serum, a paste, a foam. It can optionally be applied to the skin in the form of an aerosol. It can also be in solid form, and for example in the form of a stick.

The following examples illustrate the invention. EXAMPLE 1 Facial Care Cream An oil-in-water emulsion having the following composition was prepared: Ceration H from Sasol (ie, about 0.75% MA Sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate) g -Isohexadecane 8 g 35 - polymethylene wax (Cirebelle 303 from Sasol) 4 g - mixture of hexyldecanol and hexadecyl laurate (Cetiol PGL from Cognis) 2 g - cyclohexasiloxane 2.5 g - oxyethylenated dimethylsiloxane (16 g) EO) with methoxy endings 40 (Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax from Dow Corning) 2 g - Dimethicone emulsion (Dow Corning 7-3099 Dimethicone HIP emulsion from Dow Corning) 3 g - Ascorbic acid 5 g 2905855 10 -Copolymer styrene / maleic acid, sodium salt at 40% by weight in water (SMA1000HNa marketed by GRAY VALLEY) 2.5 g-potassium hydroxide 3.0 g-xanthan gum 0.5 g 5-Esterified corn starch by octenylsuccinic anhydride, aluminum salt (National Starc Dry Flo Plus) h) 3 g - Glycerin 7 g - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g The emulsion was prepared according to the following procedure: Part of the water, glycerin and preservatives are heated to 75 ° C. the fatty substances previously mixed and heated to 75 ° C. are added with stirring; then the gelling agent is added at 60 ° C. and the other compounds are added at room temperature. The emulsion obtained has good storage stability, especially after 2 months at room temperature and at 45 ° C., without the appearance of a yellowish color. Comparative Examples 2 and 3: Oil-in-water compositions similar to that of Example 1 were prepared but one of the compositions (Example 2) did not contain wax, and the other composition (Example 3) does not contain a surfactant Cution H, the latter being replaced by the mixture of glyceryl stearate / PEG-100 stearate and cetyl alcohol. The contents are expressed as a percentage by weight. EXAMPLE 2 EXAMPLE 3 Excluding the invention invention Ceration H from Sasol 5 - (ie about 0.75% MA sodium dicocoyl ethylenediamine PEG-15 sulfate) Cetyl alcohol -1 Mixture of glyceryl stearate and PEG-100 stearate - - 1.40 (ARLACEL 165 FL from Uniqema) Isohexadecane 8 8 Polymethylene wax (Cirebelle 303 from Sasol) - 4 mixture of hexyldecanol and hexadecyl laurate (Cetiol 2 2 PGL from Cognis) 20 5 2905855 11 Cyclohexasiloxane 2,5 2,5 Dimethylsiloxane oxyethylenated (16 EO) with methoxy ends 2 (Dow Corning 2501 cosmetic wax from Dow Corning) Dimethicone emulsion 3 (Dow Corning 7-3099 Dimethicone HIP emulsion from Dow Corning) Acid ascorbic acid 5 5 styrene / maleic acid copolymer, 40% sodium salt 2.5% by weight in water (SMA1000HNa marketed by GRAY VALLEY) Potassium hydroxide 3 3 Xanthan gum 0.5 0.5 Corn starch esterified with octenylsuccinic anhydride, 3% salt of al uminium (Dry Flo Plus from National Starch) Glycerin 7 7 Preservatives qs qs Water qs 100 qs 100 The compositions 2 and 3 were stored for 2 months at 45 ° C. After this storage time, the two compositions have a yellowish color, unlike the composition of Example 1 according to the invention which remains white. Thus, the presence of the wax and the surfactant Ceralution H contribute to the good stability of the emulsion according to the invention.

Claims (27)

  A composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium containing water, ascorbic acid, a copolymer of styrenic monomer and ethylenically unsaturated carboxylic acid diacid, a wax and a geminate surfactant of formula (I): (I) wherein: R 1 and R 3 denote, independently of one another, an alkyl radical having from 1 to 25 carbon atoms; R2 denotes a spacer consisting of a linear or branched alkylene chain having from 1 to 12 carbon atoms; X and Y denote, independently of one another, a group (C2H4O) a (C3H6O) bZ wherein Z denotes a hydrogen atom or a radical CH2-COOM, -SO3M, -P (0); ) (OM) 2i-C2H4-SO3M, -C3H6-SO3M or CH2 (CHOH) 4CH2OH, where M, M 'are H or an alkaline or alkaline-earth or ammonium or alkanolammonium ion, • avade0 to 15, 20 • b ranges from 0 to 10, and • the sum of a + b is from 1 to 25; and - n is from 1 to 10,   2. Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the ascorbic acid is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from at 6% by weight.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the styrenic monomer is selected from styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.   4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the styrenic monomer is styrene.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is chosen from maleic acid, itaconic acid, or their hydrolysed anhydride derivative after polymerization. 30 2905855 13   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the ethylenically unsaturated dicarboxylic acid is chosen from maleic acid, or their anhydride derivative hydrolysed after polymerization.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said copolymer is in salt form.   8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that said copolymer is in salt form selected from ammonium, sodium, potassium, lithium, and preferably in the form of sodium salt.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said copolymer is a copolymer of styrene and maleic acid.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said copolymer is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably in a certain amount. ranging from 0.5 to 70% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5% to 5% by weight.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), each of R, -CO- and R3-CO- groups comprises from 8 to 20 carbon atoms.   12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that each of the groups R, -CO- and R3-CO- denotes a coconut fatty acid residue.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value ranging from 10 to 20.   14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that for each of the radicals X and Y, the sum of a and b has a mean value equal to   15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the gemini surfactant of formula (I) Y is the group ûSO3M where M is an alkaline ion such as a sodium ion.   16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), the spacer R2 consists of a C1-C3 linear alkylene chain, preferably an ethylene chain. 2905855 14   17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that for the gemini surfactant of formula (I), n is equal to 1.   18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the surfactant of formula (I) has the following structure: ## STR1 ## ) ùSO3Na IIO   19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the geminate surfactant is mixed with (a) a C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester and glyceryl, (b) a fatty acid diester. C6-C22 and citric acid and glycerol, and (c) a C10-C30 fatty alcohol.   20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the glycemic surfactant represents 10 to 20% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid ester and glyceryl is from 30 to 40% by weight; the C 6 -C 22 fatty acid diester and citric acid and glycerol represents from 10 to 20% by weight; and the C10-C30 fatty alcohol represents from 30 to 40% by weight, relative to the total weight of the mixture. 20   21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the gemini surfactant is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from , 1 to 3% by weight, and preferably ranging from 0.5 to 3% by weight. 25   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is chosen from polyethylene waxes, polymethylene waxes and Fisher-Tropsch waxes.   23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1%. at 7% by weight, and preferably ranging from 2 to 6% by weight.   24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the water is present in a content ranging from 5% to 80% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably ranging from % to 75% by weight. 2905855 15   25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an oil.   26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion.   27. Cosmetic process for the non-therapeutic treatment or makeup of keratin materials, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 10