FR2903303A1 - Dermatological/cosmetic composition useful to fight against skin aging, comprises N-palmitoyl glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, nicotinamide and spa water and non-toxic excipients/carriers - Google Patents
Dermatological/cosmetic composition useful to fight against skin aging, comprises N-palmitoyl glycyl-L-histidyl-L-lysine, hydrolyzed hyaluronic acid, nicotinamide and spa water and non-toxic excipients/carriers Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR2903303A1 FR2903303A1 FR0606206A FR0606206A FR2903303A1 FR 2903303 A1 FR2903303 A1 FR 2903303A1 FR 0606206 A FR0606206 A FR 0606206A FR 0606206 A FR0606206 A FR 0606206A FR 2903303 A1 FR2903303 A1 FR 2903303A1
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- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- dermatological
- nicotinamide
- hyaluronic acid
- cosmetic compositions
- compositions according
- Prior art date
- Legal status (The legal status is an assumption and is not a legal conclusion. Google has not performed a legal analysis and makes no representation as to the accuracy of the status listed.)
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- DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N Nicotinamide Chemical compound NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 DFPAKSUCGFBDDF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 title claims abstract description 23
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- 230000008723 osmotic stress Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000002018 overexpression Effects 0.000 description 1
- 125000001312 palmitoyl group Chemical group O=C([*])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])C([H])([H])[H] 0.000 description 1
- 229940093441 palmitoyl oligopeptide Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N pentane-1,2-diol Chemical compound CCCC(O)CO WCVRQHFDJLLWFE-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000002978 peroxides Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 230000008845 photoaging Effects 0.000 description 1
- 231100000589 photocarcinogenesis Toxicity 0.000 description 1
- 229920000193 polymethacrylate Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000000244 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000010482 polyoxyethylene sorbitan monooleate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940068968 polysorbate 80 Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229920000053 polysorbate 80 Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000004810 polytetrafluoroethylene Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229920001343 polytetrafluoroethylene Polymers 0.000 description 1
- 239000002243 precursor Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000002360 preparation method Methods 0.000 description 1
- 239000003755 preservative agent Substances 0.000 description 1
- LKUUGLNIBFTTTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N propane-1,2,3-triol;pyridine-3-carboxamide Chemical compound OCC(O)CO.NC(=O)C1=CC=CN=C1 LKUUGLNIBFTTTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 102000004169 proteins and genes Human genes 0.000 description 1
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000003938 response to stress Effects 0.000 description 1
- 201000004700 rosacea Diseases 0.000 description 1
- 229940057910 shea butter Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 101150005399 sod2 gene Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000007921 spray Substances 0.000 description 1
- 230000004936 stimulating effect Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000000638 stimulation Effects 0.000 description 1
- 230000035882 stress Effects 0.000 description 1
- 229940032362 superoxide dismutase Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 210000001519 tissue Anatomy 0.000 description 1
- 239000011573 trace mineral Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000013619 trace mineral Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000000225 tumor suppressor protein Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 description 1
Classifications
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/64—Proteins; Peptides; Derivatives or degradation products thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/67—Vitamins
- A61K8/673—Vitamin B group
- A61K8/675—Vitamin B3 or vitamin B3 active, e.g. nicotinamide, nicotinic acid, nicotinyl aldehyde
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/73—Polysaccharides
- A61K8/735—Mucopolysaccharides, e.g. hyaluronic acid; Derivatives thereof
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/965—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution of inanimate origin
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61P—SPECIFIC THERAPEUTIC ACTIVITY OF CHEMICAL COMPOUNDS OR MEDICINAL PREPARATIONS
- A61P17/00—Drugs for dermatological disorders
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/52—Stabilizers
- A61K2800/522—Antioxidants; Radical scavengers
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/59—Mixtures
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- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
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- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
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- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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- General Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
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- Organic Chemistry (AREA)
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- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
1 Compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétologiques destinées à lutter1 Dermatological and / or cosmetological compositions for combating
contre le vieillissement cutané La présente invention se rapporte au domaine des nécessités de la vie et plus particulièrement au domaine de la cosmétologie et de la dermatologie. La présente invention se rapporte plus particulièrement à des compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétologiques destinées à lutter contre le vieillissement cutané. The present invention relates to the field of the necessities of life and more particularly to the field of cosmetology and dermatology. The present invention relates more particularly to dermatological and / or cosmetological compositions intended to combat cutaneous aging.
La peau est de nos jours sollicitée par un environnement extérieur de plus en plus agressif. Une pollution croissante et ses conséquences sur la couche d'ozone, ainsi que des expositions fréquentes au soleil sont autant de facteurs accélérant les processus impliqués dans le vieillissement de la peau. Ce vieillissement prématuré a des conséquences fâcheuses sur le plan de la santé et de l'esthétique. Les produits antivieillissement se doivent de prendre en considération les facteurs impliqués dans le vieillissement cutané et leurs mécanismes d'action au niveau organique. The skin is nowadays solicited by an increasingly aggressive outdoor environment. Increasing pollution and its consequences on the ozone layer, as well as frequent exposure to the sun are all factors accelerating the processes involved in the aging of the skin. This premature aging has unfortunate consequences for health and aesthetics. Anti-aging products must take into account factors involved in skin aging and their mechanisms of action at the organic level.
L'invention a spécifiquement pour objet une association originale de principes actifs constituée de : • Un tripeptide de séquence glycine-histidine-lysine estérifié en position N-terminale, le NPalmitoyl GHK, • l'acide hyaluronique, et en particulier sous forme hydrolysée, des oligosaccharides d'acide hyaluronique de bas à très bas poids moléculaire, • le nicotinamide, • l'Eau Thermale d'Uriage en association ou en mélange avec un ou plusieurs excipients ou véhicules inertes, non toxiques, dermatologiquement acceptables. Ces principes actifs sont connus indépendamment les uns des autres et ont déjà été utilisés à des fins cosmétiques. Ils présentent les propriétés suivantes : • Comme en témoignent des études in vitro et in vivo, le N-palmitoyl GHK permet d'augmenter la synthèse du collagène et présente une activité raffermissante et antiride (FR 2 802 413). Le groupement Palmitoyl lui confère une biodisponibilité particulière. Il existe une abondante bibliographie décrivant son activité réparatrice au niveau dermique, notamment par la stimulation de la synthèse des glycosaminoglycanes. Le tripeptide GHK sous forme de complexe de cuivre II est d'autre part connu pour son activité cicatrisante et anti-inflammatoire (EP 0 189 182). 2903303 2 • L'acide hyaluronique est un constituant naturel du derme humain. Ses propriétés hydrophiles élevées en font un agent hydratant et tenseur majeur de la peau. L'intérêt de l'acide hyaluronique en application topique reste néanmoins limité car, du fait de 5 son poids moléculaire élevé, il ne passe pas la barrière cutanée et ne peut donc agir qu'à la surface de la peau. Les oligosaccharides de l'acide hyaluronique de bas poids moléculaire, utilisés dans la présente invention, ont en revanche montré une capacité de diffusion dans l'épiderme (Brown T.J. et. al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 1999, 113(5), 740-6), ainsi que d'autres 10 propriétés, notamment de prévention des dommages liés aux radicaux libres (Trabucchi E. et. al., Int. J. Tissue React. 2002, 24(2), 65-71), de retardement de l'appauvrissement en microvascularisation (Sattar A. et. al., J. Invest. Dermatol. 1994, 103(4), 576-9) et de protection contre le stress (Hu H. et. al., J. Biol. Chem. 2002, 277(19), 17308-14). Des oligosaccharides de l'acide hyaluronique d'un poids variant 15 de 400 à 4000 Daltons ont été utilisés en cosmétique pour leur propriétés hydratantes et antirides, notamment en association avec le chitosane (EP 1 407 759). • Le nicotinamide (ou Niacinamide, ou Vitamine B3, ou Vitamine PP) est un composé naturellement présent dans l'organisme, précurseur des coenzymes actifs NAD, 20 NADH et NADP intervenant dans le métabolisme cellulaire. Le nicotinamide est très utilisé en dermatologie (acné, couperose, hyperpigmentation, barrière cutanée). Des études récentes montrent l'intérêt du nicotinamide dans la prévention du photovieillissement : il protège l'ADN d'éventuelles altérations/mutations par une activité endonucléase (Gupta K.P. et. al., Biomed. Environ. Sci. 2000, 13(2), 122-30). 25 Une étude in vivo a montré une protection vis à vis de la photocarcinogénèse et de la photoimmunosuppression (Gensler H.L. et. al., Nutr. Cancer. 1999, 34(1), 36-41). En diminuant l'expression du NF-KappaB, il réduit les hyperpigmentations ou dispigmentations photoinduites (Ahn K.S. et. al., J. Dermatol. Sci. 2003, 31(3), 193-201). Il peut agir de manière complémentaire en inhibant le transfert des mélanosomes 30 (Bissett D. et. al., Exp. Dermatol. 2005, 14(7), 498-508). • L'eau thermale d'Uriage a démontré, grâce à sa richesse naturelle en oligoéléments, une activité antiradicalaire de type Super-Oxyde-Dismutase. 35 Les hydrolysats d'acide hyaluronique utilisés selon la présente invention peuvent avoir un poids moléculaire compris entre 400 Daltons et 1 million de Daltons. Il peut s'agir également de l'unité disaccharide composant l'acide hyaluronique, soit l'acide (3-D-glucopyrannosyl(1-3)-[3-D-2-N-acélylglucosamine. Enfin, il peut s'agir de l'acide glucuronique lui-même et de la N-acétyl glucosamine elle-même. 40 2903303 3 Les compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétologiques selon la présente invention agissent de manière à retarder mais aussi à limiter le processus de vieillissement induit par le rayonnement solaire. 5 • Cette association permet de lutter contre le stress oxydatif (causé par la présence excessive de radicaux libres), de protéger l'ADN cellulaire, de limiter l'immunosuppression cutanée (principalement photo-UVA induite) et de maintenir la fonctionnalité des fibres élastiques dermiques pour retarder l'apparition précoce des signes du vieillissement cutané. 10 • Cette association permet également d'augmenter la synthèse du collagène dermique, de stimuler la synthèse des glycosaminoglycanes dermiques et d'augmenter le métabolisme cellulaire épidermique pour aider à réparer les signes du vieillissement cutané. 15 Comme il est exposé à l'Exemple 2, la Demanderesse a mis en évidence le caractère synergique de l'activité de ces différents composés, au sein d'une même préparation destinée à lutter contre le vieillissement cutané. La composition est notamment plus efficace que les principes actifs pris isolément pour limiter le stress oxydatif, comme en témoigne son effet sur l'expression du gène OSR-1 (Oxydative Stress Response). 20 OSR-1 permet l'activation de co-transporteurs membranaires lorsque la cellule est soumise à des stress osmotiques ou oxydatifs afin maintenir l'homéostasie de la cellule dans son environnement (Piechotta et. al., J. Biot. Chem. 2002, 277, 50812-9) . Il s'agit donc d'une réponse au stress de manière à éviter un déséquilibre cellulaire. 25 OSR-1 permet également d'augmenter l'activité de la protéine p53 (tumor-suppressor protein), protéine induisant l'arrêt de la croissance cellulaire et induisant l'apoptose lorsqu'il y a altération de la cellule (Huang et. al., Proc. Natl. Acad. Sci. U.S A. 2004, 101, 3456-61). Il s'agit donc d'un processus d'élimination des cellules altérées afin d'éviter tout 30 disfonctionnement ultérieur. Une composition selon l'invention, puisqu'elle limite la stimulation du gène OSR-1, est susceptible de réduire au préalable les éléments du stress oxydatif, comme les radicaux libres et les peroxydes. Selon une forme préférentielle de l'invention, les compositions contiennent de 10 ppm à 10% de N-Palrnitoyl GHK par rapport ail pnirk tntal r1P 1 rnmpncitinn Selon une forme préférentielle de l'invention, les compositions contiennent de 10 ppm à 20% 40 d'acide hyaluronique hydrolysé par rapport au poids total de la composition. 35 2903303 4 Selon une forme préférentielle de l'invention, les compositions contiennent de 10 ppm à 20% de nicotinamide par rapport au poids total de la composition. Selon une forme préférentielle de l'invention, les compositions contiennent de 0,1% à 30% 5 d'Eau Thermale d'Uriage par rapport au poids total de la composition. Les compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétologiques selon l'invention peuvent également contenir d'autres composés actifs, comme par exemple un ou plusieurs filtres solaires. Selon une forme préférentielle de l'invention, les filtres solaires sont introduits 10 chacun en quantité allant de 0,5 à 10 % en masse et, de manière davantage préférée, de 1 à 5 % en masse, par rapport à la masse totale de la composition. Les compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétologiques selon l'invention peuvent, en outre, renfermer des agents émollients, adoucissants, des conservateurs ou des parfums. Les compositions dermatologiques et/ou cosmétologiques selon l'invention se présentent sous une forme appropriée à l'application topique, comme par exemple les gels, les lotions, les émulsions huile dans l'eau ou eau dans l'huile, les dispersions, les laits, les crèmes, les onguents, les mousses, les bâtons (sticks), les sprays et/ou les aérosols. La présente invention a également pour objet l'utilisation des compositions décrites ici pour lutter contre le vieillissement cutané, par application sur la peau. La présente invention a également pour objet l'utilisation des compositions décrites ici pour 25 lutter contre le stress oxydatif, par application sur la peau. Les exemples suivants illustrent l'invention sans la limiter aucunement. 15 20 2903303 5 Exemple 1 : Composition destinée à lutter contre le vieillissement cutané Constituants Nomenclature INCI qté (% massique Steareth-2 0,5 Steareth-2 1 . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Cetyl alcohol Pentaerytrityl distearate Dicaprylyl carbonate Butyrospermum parka Trimethylolpropane tricaprylate/tricaprate Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil Tocopheryl acetate Water Alcool stéarique 2 Alcool stéarique 21 LANETTE 16 (Cogms) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Distéarate de pentaerytrityle Carbonate de dicaprylyle Beurre de karité Tricaprylate de triméthylolpropane Limnanthes alba Eau Eau thermale d'Uriage Chlorphénésine Glycérol Nicotinamide BIOPEPTIDE CL (Sederma (N-Palmitoyl GHK) Acide hyaluromque hydrolyse BIOSOL't Parfum Acide citrique Uriage Thermal Spring Water 10 Chlorphenesin Glycerin Niacinamide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pentylene glycol Inulin lauryl Carbamate Sodium acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate-80 Cyclopentasiloxane & Cyclohexasiloxane PTFE Corn Starch modified Glyceryl polymethacrylate & Propylene glycol & Palmitoyl oligopeptide Hyaluronic acid o-cymen-5-ol The invention specifically relates to an original combination of active principles consisting of: • A tripeptide of glycine-histidine-lysine sequence esterified in the N-terminal position, the NPalmitoyl GHK, • hyaluronic acid, and in particular in hydrolysed form, oligosaccharides of hyaluronic acid from low to very low molecular weight, • nicotinamide, • Uriage Thermal Water in combination or mixed with one or more inert excipients or vehicles, non-toxic, dermatologically acceptable. These active ingredients are known independently of each other and have already been used for cosmetic purposes. They have the following properties: • As evidenced by in vitro and in vivo studies, N-palmitoyl GHK makes it possible to increase collagen synthesis and has a firming and anti-wrinkle activity (FR 2 802 413). The Palmitoyl group gives it a particular bioavailability. There is an extensive bibliography describing its repair activity at the dermal level, in particular by stimulating the synthesis of glycosaminoglycans. The tripeptide GHK in the form of copper complex II is also known for its healing and anti-inflammatory activity (EP 0 189 182). 2903303 2 • Hyaluronic acid is a natural constituent of the human dermis. Its high hydrophilic properties make it a moisturizing and major tensor of the skin. The interest of hyaluronic acid in topical application is nevertheless limited because, due to its high molecular weight, it does not pass the skin barrier and can therefore only act on the surface of the skin. The oligosaccharides of low molecular weight hyaluronic acid used in the present invention, on the other hand, have shown a diffusion capacity in the epidermis (Brown TJ et al., J. Invest Dermatol 1999, 113 (5)). , 740-6), as well as other properties, including prevention of free radical damage (Trabucchi E. et al., Int.J. Tissue React 2002, 24 (2), 65-71). delay of depletion in microvasculature (Sattar A. et al., J. Invest Dermatol 1994, 103 (4), 576-9) and protection against stress (Hu H. et al. J. Biol Chem 2002, 277 (19), 17308-14). Oligosaccharides of hyaluronic acid with a weight ranging from 400 to 4000 Daltons have been used in cosmetics for their moisturizing and anti-wrinkle properties, especially in combination with chitosan (EP 1 407 759). • Nicotinamide (or Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, or Vitamin PP) is a compound naturally present in the body, precursor of the active coenzymes NAD, NADH and NADP involved in cell metabolism. Nicotinamide is widely used in dermatology (acne, rosacea, hyperpigmentation, skin barrier). Recent studies show the interest of nicotinamide in the prevention of photoaging: it protects the DNA from possible alterations / mutations by endonuclease activity (Gupta KP et al., Biomed, Environ Sci 2000, 13 (2)). , 122-30). An in vivo study has shown protection against photocarcinogenesis and photoimmunosuppression (Gensler, H.L. et al., Nutr Cancer 1999, 34 (1), 36-41). By decreasing the expression of NF-KappaB, it reduces photoinduced hyperpigmentations or dispigmentations (Ahn K.S. et al., J. Dermatol Sci 2003, 31 (3), 193-201). It can act in a complementary manner by inhibiting the transfer of melanosomes (Bissett D. et al., Exp Dermatol 2005, 14 (7), 498-508). • The thermal water of Uriage has, thanks to its natural richness in trace elements, an anti-radical activity type Super-Oxide-Dismutase. The hydrolysates of hyaluronic acid used according to the present invention may have a molecular weight of between 400 Daltons and 1 Million Daltons. It may also be the disaccharide unit comprising hyaluronic acid or (3-D-glucopyranosyl (1-3) - [3-D-2-N-acelylglucosamine acid. act on glucuronic acid itself and N-acetylglucosamine itself The dermatological and / or cosmetological compositions according to the present invention act in such a way as to retard but also to limit the aging process induced by the solar radiation 5 • This combination makes it possible to fight against oxidative stress (caused by the excessive presence of free radicals), to protect cellular DNA, to limit cutaneous immunosuppression (mainly photo-induced UVA) and to maintain the functionality dermal elastic fibers to delay the early onset of the signs of skin aging This combination also makes it possible to increase the synthesis of dermal collagen, to stimulate the synthesis of dermal glycosaminoglycans and to increase enter epidermal cell metabolism to help repair the signs of skin aging. As is explained in Example 2, the Applicant has demonstrated the synergistic nature of the activity of these various compounds, within the same preparation for combating skin aging. The composition is in particular more effective than the active ingredients taken alone to limit oxidative stress, as evidenced by its effect on the expression of the OSR-1 (Oxidative Stress Response) gene. OSR-1 allows activation of membrane co-transporters when the cell is subjected to osmotic or oxidative stress to maintain cell homeostasis in its environment (Piechotta et al., J. Biot Chem 2002, 277, 50812-9). It is therefore a response to stress so as to avoid a cellular imbalance. OSR-1 also makes it possible to increase the activity of the p53 protein (tumor-suppressor protein), a protein inducing the arrest of cell growth and inducing apoptosis when there is cell damage (Huang et. al., Proc Natl Acad Sci US 2004, 101, 3456-61). It is therefore a process of removing the altered cells in order to avoid any subsequent malfunction. A composition according to the invention, since it limits the stimulation of the OSR-1 gene, is likely to reduce previously the elements of oxidative stress, such as free radicals and peroxides. According to a preferred form of the invention, the compositions contain from 10 ppm to 10% of N-palmitoyl GHK relative to the pneumatic content of the compound. According to a preferred form of the invention, the compositions contain from 10 ppm to 20%. hyaluronic acid hydrolyzed relative to the total weight of the composition. According to one preferred form of the invention, the compositions contain from 10 ppm to 20% of nicotinamide relative to the total weight of the composition. According to a preferred form of the invention, the compositions contain from 0.1% to 30% of Uriage Thermal Water relative to the total weight of the composition. The dermatological and / or cosmetological compositions according to the invention may also contain other active compounds, for example one or more sunscreens. According to a preferred form of the invention, the sunscreens are each introduced in an amount ranging from 0.5 to 10% by weight and, more preferably, from 1 to 5% by weight, relative to the total mass of the composition. The dermatological and / or cosmetological compositions according to the invention may, in addition, contain emollients, softeners, preservatives or perfumes. The dermatological and / or cosmetological compositions according to the invention are in a form suitable for topical application, such as, for example, gels, lotions, oil-in-water or water-in-oil emulsions, dispersions, milks, creams, ointments, mousses, sticks, sprays and / or aerosols. The subject of the present invention is also the use of the compositions described here for combating cutaneous aging, by application to the skin. The present invention also relates to the use of the compositions described herein for combating oxidative stress, by application to the skin. The following examples illustrate the invention without limiting it in any way. EXAMPLE 1 Composition for combating skin aging Constituents Nomenclature INCI qty (% by weight Steareth-2 0.5 Steareth-2 1. ".... In the following ways ... .... Cetyl alcohol Pentaerytrityl distearate Dicaprylyl carbonate Butyrospermum parka Trimethylolpropane tricaprylate / tricaprate Limnanthes alba (Meadowfoam) seed oil Tocopheryl acetate Water Stearic alcohol 2 Stearyl alcohol 21 LANETTE 16 (Cogms). Pentaerytrityl distearate Dicaprylyl carbonate Shea butter Tretyethylolpropane tricaprylate Limnanthes alba Water Thermal spring water 'Uriage Chlorphenesin Glycerol Nicotinamide BIOPEPTIDE CL (Sederma (N-Palmitoyl GHK) Hyaluromic acid hydrolysis BIOSOL't Perfume Citric acid Uriage Thermal Spring Water 10 Chlorphenesin Glycerin Ni acinamide. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Pentylene glycol Inulin Lauryl Carbamate Sodium Acrylate / Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer & Isohexadecane & Polysorbate-80 Cyclopentasiloxane & Cyclohexasiloxane PTFE Corn Starch modified Glyceryl polymethacrylate & Propylene glycol & Palmitoyl oligopeptide Hyaluronic acid o-cymen-5-ol
......................................................... Perfume Citric acid 5 Total : 100 Exemple 2 : Etude in vitro de l'activité anti-âge d'une association selon l'invention Sur un modèle in vitro de fibroblastes cutanés humains en culture, l'expression d'une sélection de gènes liés au vieillissement cutané a été étudiée par la technique des cDNAarrays. .................................................. Perfume Citric acid Total: 100 Example 2: In vitro study of the anti-aging activity of an association according to the invention On an in vitro model of human cutaneous fibroblasts in culture, the expression a selection of genes related to skin aging has been studied by the cDNAarrays technique.
2903303 6 Les résultats sont regroupés dans le tableau 1. L'efficacité des actifs ou des associations d'actifs est traduite en terme d'inhibition de l'expression des gènes (signe -) ou de surexpression des gènes (signe +). Nom des gènes Fonction Témoin Témoin PGHK HYALU. Ass.The results are summarized in Table 1. The effectiveness of the active or active combinations is translated in terms of inhibition of gene expression (sign -) or overexpression of genes (sign +). Genetic Names Function Control Witness PGHK HYALU. Ass.
1 Ass.1 Ass.
2 R8 R14 0,5ppm 0,04% 0 (182%) 0 (191%) 191% - (171%) - (138%) Bétagalactosidase Marqueur 100 vieillissement Collagène-3 Derme 100 63% + (100%) + (100%) + (90%) + (73%) + (163%) + (225%) Collagène-4 JDE 100 117% + (210%) + (199%) MMP-1 Derme 100 709% - (512%) - (487%) - (500%) + (931%) MMP-3 Derme 100 3039% -(2244%) - - 0 (2170%) (2503%) (3069%) MMP-14 Vascularisation 100 157% + (181%) 0 (159%) + (174%) 0 (148%) IL-6 Inflammation 100 232% -(169%) - (184%) - (180%) - (184%) MCP-1 inflammation 100 173% - (106%) -(129%) - (113%) - (134%) Méthallothionéines Rx Libres 100 204% - (148%) -(154%) - (148%) - (183%) MT 1H et IvIT1X 100 199% - (142%) - (147%) -(146%) 0 (209%) Glutaredoxin Rx Libres 100 338% - (213%) - (261%) (220%) - (298%) SOD-2 Rx Libres 100 199% - (149%) - (179%) - (173%) (186%) , OSR-1 Stress oxydatif 100 112% - (85%) 0 (99%) - (88%) -- (54 %) Hyalu : hyaluronates (haut et bas poids moléculaire 10 L'association 2 (N-palmitoyl GHK, Hyaluronates, Nicotinamide) inhibe de manière significative l'OSR-1 (Oxydative Stress Response) par rapport aux actifs N-palmitoyl GHK et hyaluronates seuls. L'association N-palmitoyl GHK / Hyaluronates / Nicotinamide présente donc un effet 15 synergique de lutte contre le stress oxydatif. R8 = témoin fibroblastes normaux (8j de culture) R14= témoin fibroblastes vieux (14j de culture) PGHK : N-palmitoyl GHK 5 Ass. 1 : PGHK 0,5 ppm + Hyaluronates 0,04% Ass. 2 : PGHK 0,5 ppm + Hyaluronates 0,04%+ nicotinamide lmg/g Valeurs en pourcentage d'expression du gène par rapport au témoin R8 Tableau 1..FT: COMPOSITIONS DERMATOLOGIQUES ET/OU COSMETOLOGIQUES DESTINEES A LUTTER CONTRE LE VIEILLISSEMENT CUTANE2 R8 R14 0.5ppm 0.04% 0 (182%) 0 (191%) 191% - (171%) - (138%) Betagalactosidase Marker 100 Aging Collagen-3 Dermal 100 63% + (100%) + ( 100%) + (90%) + (73%) + (163%) + (225%) Collagen-4 JDE 100 117% + (210%) + (199%) MMP-1 Dermal 100 709% - (512 %) - (487%) - (500%) + (931%) MMP-3 Dermal 100 3039% - (2244%) - - 0 (2170%) (2503%) (3069%) MMP-14 Vascularization 100 157 % + (181%) 0 (159%) + (174%) 0 (148%) IL-6 Inflammation 100 232% - (169%) - (184%) - (180%) - (184%) MCP- 1 inflammation 100 173% - (106%) - (129%) - (113%) - (134%) Methallothioneins Rx Free 100 204% - (148%) - (154%) - (148%) - (183%) ) MT 1H and IvIT1X 100 199% - (142%) - (147%) - (146%) 0 (209%) Glutaredoxin Rx Free 100 338% - (213%) - (261%) (220%) - ( 298%) SOD-2 Rx Free 100 199% - (149%) - (179%) - (173%) (186%), OSR-1 Oxidative stress 100 112% - (85%) 0 (99%) - (88%) - (54%) Hyalu: hyaluronates (high and low molecular weight) The combination 2 (N-palmitoyl GHK, Hyaluronates, Nicotinamide) inhibits m significant OSR-1 (Oxidative Stress Response) compared to GHK and hyaluronate N-palmitoyl alone. The N-palmitoyl GHK / Hyaluronates / Nicotinamide combination therefore has a synergistic effect of combating oxidative stress. R8 = normal fibroblasts control (8 days of culture) R14 = old fibroblasts control (14 days of culture) PGHK: N-palmitoyl GHK Ass. 1: PGHK 0.5 ppm + Hyaluronates 0.04% Ass. 2: PGHK 0.5 ppm + Hyaluronates 0.04% + nicotinamide 1 mg / g Values in percentage of expression of the gene compared to the R8 control Table 1..FT: DERMATOLOGICAL AND / OR COSMETOLOGICAL COMPOSITIONS FOR ANTI-AGING SKIN AGING
Claims (8)
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Cited By (6)
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| FR2927537A1 (en) * | 2008-02-18 | 2009-08-21 | Oreal | Oil-in-water emulsion composition useful for making up/removing makeup from skin comprises inulin modified with hydrophobic chain, and hydrophilic acrylic polymer, e.g. crosslinked polyacrylamidomethylpropane-sulfonic acid homopolymer |
| FR2929518A1 (en) * | 2008-04-04 | 2009-10-09 | Oreal | Cosmetic use of polypeptide of amino acid sequence encoded by nucleic acid sequence represented by a sequence, nucleic acid sequence encoding for polypeptide or modulating agent, to prevent and/or treat e.g. signs of skin aging |
| FR2980361A1 (en) * | 2011-09-28 | 2013-03-29 | Dermatologiques Uriage Lab | Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful e.g. to maintain mechanical/biochemical properties of skin, comprises cyclic peptides, phosphorylated derivative of amino saccharide, a natural mineral water and an Edelweiss extract |
| FR3009957A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-03-06 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF SULFONIC AND ACRYLIC POLYMERS |
| FR3039404A1 (en) * | 2015-07-27 | 2017-02-03 | Laboratoires Dermatologiques D'uriage | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL AND / OR THERAPEUTIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ARCHEES FOR STIMULATION OF THE HUMAN IMMUNE RECOGNITION SYSTEM |
| FR3039405A1 (en) * | 2015-07-27 | 2017-02-03 | Laboratoires Dermatologiques D'uriage | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL AND / OR THERAPEUTIC COMPOSITION FOR STIMULATION OF THE HUMAN IMMUNE RECOGNITION SYSTEM |
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| Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
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| FR2927537A1 (en) * | 2008-02-18 | 2009-08-21 | Oreal | Oil-in-water emulsion composition useful for making up/removing makeup from skin comprises inulin modified with hydrophobic chain, and hydrophilic acrylic polymer, e.g. crosslinked polyacrylamidomethylpropane-sulfonic acid homopolymer |
| FR2929518A1 (en) * | 2008-04-04 | 2009-10-09 | Oreal | Cosmetic use of polypeptide of amino acid sequence encoded by nucleic acid sequence represented by a sequence, nucleic acid sequence encoding for polypeptide or modulating agent, to prevent and/or treat e.g. signs of skin aging |
| FR2980361A1 (en) * | 2011-09-28 | 2013-03-29 | Dermatologiques Uriage Lab | Cosmetic and/or dermatological composition, useful e.g. to maintain mechanical/biochemical properties of skin, comprises cyclic peptides, phosphorylated derivative of amino saccharide, a natural mineral water and an Edelweiss extract |
| FR3009957A1 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-03-06 | Oreal | COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING A MIXTURE OF SULFONIC AND ACRYLIC POLYMERS |
| WO2015028745A3 (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2015-05-07 | L'oreal | Cosmetic composition comprising a sulphonic polymer, a hydrophobic polysaccharide and a silicone surfactant |
| CN105658199A (en) * | 2013-08-30 | 2016-06-08 | 莱雅公司 | Cosmetic composition comprising sulphonic polymer, hydrophobic polysaccharide and silicone surfactant |
| FR3039404A1 (en) * | 2015-07-27 | 2017-02-03 | Laboratoires Dermatologiques D'uriage | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL AND / OR THERAPEUTIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ARCHEES FOR STIMULATION OF THE HUMAN IMMUNE RECOGNITION SYSTEM |
| FR3039405A1 (en) * | 2015-07-27 | 2017-02-03 | Laboratoires Dermatologiques D'uriage | COSMETIC AND / OR DERMATOLOGICAL AND / OR THERAPEUTIC COMPOSITION FOR STIMULATION OF THE HUMAN IMMUNE RECOGNITION SYSTEM |
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