FR2903014A1 - COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON POLYUNSATURATED FATTY ACIDS AND USES THEREOF - Google Patents

Abstract

The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising (i) at least vegetable oils rich in omega-3 and / or omega-6 selected from the group consisting of echium, camelina, evening primrose and borage oils. , which vegetable oils are present in a proportion which makes it possible to obtain an omega-6 omega-6 ratio in the said composition of between 1 and 5, (ii) at least one mineral, preferably in salt form, chosen from the group comprising sodium, calcium and magnesium, preferably magnesium, (iii) at least one micronutrient selected from the group consisting of zinc, copper and iron, preferably from the group consisting of zinc and copper, ) at least one of vitamin C or a derivative thereof, and (v) at least one essential oil, which has anti-radical properties, to perform a deep treatment that stimulates microcirculation and energy production. ie to energize cells and accelerate their renewal, protect collagen and fight against pigmentation spots.

Description

1 COSMETIC COMPOSITION BASED ON POLYUNSATURATED FATTY ACID AND ITS

  The present invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition that neutralizes free radicals, stimulates microcirculation and energy production to energize cells and accelerate their renewal, protect collagen and fight against pigmentation spots.  In particular, the invention relates to a cosmetic or dermatological composition comprising at least oils rich in omega-3-omega-6 such as echium, camelina, evening primrose, borage, trace elements such as zinc, copper magnesium, a vitamin C derivative and at least one essential oil, preferably a helichrysum essential oil.  The conditions of modern life make the body undergo various permanent aggressions (pollution, heavy metals, extreme temperatures, U. V).  The skin which constitutes a physical barrier, thermal, but also immunological between the body and the external elements, must thus face these various aggressions.  Among these, a major aggression results from the action of free radicals whose chemical reactivity causes the alteration of the various cellular components of the skin.  However, aging of the skin impairs its effectiveness.  It slows the cell renewal of the skin and its extracellular matrix, in particular the renewal of type I collagen.  This lesser renewal increases the sensitivity of the skin to external aggressions and its deterioration over time.  If different compositions have been developed in the prior art, none provides a global response 2903014 2 to combat all the signs of age and simultaneously having an action of: • stimulation of the proliferation of keratinocytes to repair tissue, which proliferation is accelerated by stimulation of energy production and cutaneous microcirculation; • stimulation of collagen production and anti-collagenase action for firmer skin; and • inhibition of the formation of pigment spots.  Also, there is still today an important need for the identification of new compositions having a global action on the skin.  Fats are very caloric and sometimes dangerous, some of them are very beneficial to health and today we know that they are essential substances for the proper functioning of the body.  Fats serve as a reserve of energy, they participate in the architecture of living structures, they are part of chemical messengers: life is impossible without them.  In addition, it plays a major role in the skin since when the fatty acids of the cells are damaged by free radicals, the membranes wilt with the first clinical symptom dry skin and dull.  The energy role of fats is major because they provide equal weight more calories than sugars or proteins.  They thus constitute a basic material which makes it possible to store the energy in a minimum of space.  Fats also play a major role in maintaining the body's integrity: 15% of the body's weight is made up of fats which function to cement the organs and hold them in place.  They are also essential for brain development and maturation.  They make it possible to preserve body heat and to avoid sudden variations in temperature.  They provide a large part of fat-soluble and fat-soluble vitamins that the body needs to build and stay healthy.  Fats ensure the absorption of vitamins A, E, D, K said fat-soluble.  They are the main source of essential fatty acids (EFAs) that the body can not synthesize.  It is in the 1930s that the relationship between 10 skin problems of the type of certain eczema and a deficiency in so-called essential fatty acids that will be called initially vitamin F.  This designation abandoned in some countries has had the merit of highlighting the importance of this fat in the skin.  Essential Fatty Acids also affect the balance of the nervous system, the hormonal and metabolic regulation, blood circulation, sexuality, and the quality of the skin and integuments (hair and nails).  There is schematically, as for sugars and cholesterol, bad so-called saturated fatty acids which are responsible for many health problems and good so-called unsaturated fatty acids which have instead a protective action.  More specifically, the fats are divided into four groups: saturated fatty acids; monounsaturated acids (also called omega-9 because their only double bond is located on the 9th carbon of their molecule); omega-6 polyunsaturated acids (indicating the place of a chemical double bond on the 6th carbon of the fatty acid which contains between 4 and 26); and omega-3 polyunsaturated acids (indicating the place of a chemical double bond on the 3rd carbon of the fatty acid).  Of these different fatty acids, two are said to be essential - linoleic acid (omega-6); and - alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3).  The other fatty acids derive from these two essential fatty acids which must be present in sufficient quantity and have a balanced ratio.  Thus, if one of these two fatty acids is present in too great a quantity, its transformation will be to the detriment of the other.  For example, excessive consumption of sunflower oil promotes the omega-6 pathway at the expense of the omega-3 pathway, resulting in overproduction of pro-aggregating substances and increases the risk of vascular thrombosis.  A balanced intake of omega3 and omega-6 is therefore essential to maintain a balance of body.  According to the Superior Board of Hygiene This ratio omega-3 / omega-6 is 1 to 4 - 6, according to the WHO (World Health Organization) from 1 to 5 and above, according to the NIH (National Institute of Health) from 1 to 3 and above.  For example, breast milk has a ratio of 1 to 5.  It is accepted by the scientific community that essential fatty acids, and more particularly polyunsaturated fatty acids (A. G. P. I. ) play a fundamental role in the construction and functioning of cells.  They constitute a part of the membrane, 30 ensure its sealing and exchanges with neighboring cells.  They stimulate the body's defenses; they improve learning and memory, participate in the quality of vision; they nourish the skin, giving it a better appearance.  Vegetable oils rich in polyunsaturated fatty acids are in perfect affinity with the skin which they promote the vital processes: they stimulate in particular the formation of the dermo-protective film which makes the skin smooth and supple.  Plant long forgotten, echium is the first 5 plan of medicinal plants.  Its high content of essential fatty acids (AGE), particularly in alinolenic acid, justifies its medicinal and cosmetic properties.  Of the family Borraginaceae, the echium is a plant with erect stem, very floriferous, having the particularity of being entirely bristling with stiff and pungent hairs, the flowers are arranged in clusters and have a corolla of 1. 5 to 2 cm, the flowering taking place from May to July.  This plant that grows wild in arid places can measure from 1 to 3 meters in height.  A particularity of the echium is the change of color of its flowers according to the rate of acidity of the cell sap.  The young flower has an acid and red juice, the aging flower has an alkaline and blue juice.  Echium oil is distinguished from other vegetable oils by its high percentage of stearidonic acid which is found mainly in cold sea fish oils.  The camelina (Camellina sativa or sesame from Germany) is an herb native to the steppes of Asia.  Cultivated in Europe since prehistory, its culture has become rarer.  Annual plant of the family Cruciferae, fast growing, it grows up to 1200 m altitude.  Its rigid straight stem reaches 1 m high.  Its more or less hairy leaves are terminated by two pointed auricles.  Small yellow flowers with 4 cross petals bloom from May to July.  At the end of summer, their clusters will bear small pear-shaped fruits filled with tiny reddish seeds.  Another plant rich in AGE, the evening primrose, of the family of 35 onagraceae, is a plant with erect stem, angular, which bears large yellow flowers.  On the stem are numerous fruits.  The biennial onager usually grows in the sun or partial shade on siliceous soils.  Its leaves are simple, long and fluffy, with veins.  The flower contains 8 5 stamens, 4 petals 4 to 5 cm shorter than the 4 sepals.  This flower opens at the end of the day, hence its common name of evening primrose.  Flowering takes place from June to September, after which comes the fruit which measures 2 to 3 cm.  10 Another plant rich in AGE, borage (family of borraginaceae) which is an annual plant up to 60 cm and which is covered with stiff whitish hairs and sharp.  Its alternate leaves are matt green, fleshy, wavy with sessile upper leaves 15 embracing the stem at their base.  The flowers are borne by a long hairy peduncle star-shaped with five acute petals of intense blue when ripe, pink when they are very young.  The fruits are composed of four brown or blackish achenes, furrowed.  Organic or inorganic elements (generally in the form of salts), mainly calcium, sodium and magnesium, and trace elements (iron, zinc, copper, etc.). . . ) also have an important physiological role, with mainly an action on the cellular enzymatic activity where they intervene as co-factor in prosthetic groups of enzymes.  At the level of the cutaneous surface, the mineral salts are found in the keratinocytes, cells of the epidermis, but also in the fibroblasts which belong to the cells of the dermis.  The mineral salts are part of the NMF (Natural Moisturizing Factor).  More specifically, magnesium is an important intracellular cation and activator of many enzyme systems.  It is an essential mineral for maintaining the health of the body.  Magnesium is thus involved in the phosphate transfer system and in the energy production system (ATP synthesis).  With age, there appears to be a deficiency of magnesium in the skin, the latter being involved in a great many metabolic reactions, magnesium supplementation is necessary in order to maintain the skin in good physiological conditions.  The trace elements are represented in the hydro-lipido-protein film, hence their role in maintaining cutaneous hydration.  Copper is an important trace element since it acts as a co-factor in many oxidation reactions.  Copper thus plays a role in oxidative metabolism and in cellular respiration, where it allows the synthesis of ATP by its cofactor role in various enzymatic reactions.  Copper also has an action on cellular dynamism, which is linked to its functions in protein synthesis.  At the cutaneous level, copper is involved in the synthesis of keratin, a major protein supporting the epidermis, hair and nails, where it acts as a catalyst for the formation of di-sulphide bridges.  Copper also stimulates the production of collagen, a dermal structure protein, and copper deficiency induces a decrease in intramolecular bond formation, with consequent reduction in collagen synthesis.  Copper is also involved in the mechanisms of cellular defenses and more particularly at the level of anti-free radical enzymes such as Superoxide Dismutase (SOD).  Zinc is also an important trace element since it is in particular necessary for good cell growth with action on the endocrine systems, but also as a bio-catalyst for enzymatic reactions, especially at the dermal level.  The skin contains a significant portion of body zinc (about 20%) and zinc deficiency is associated with significant desquamation.  Zinc-dependent enzyme co-factor, zinc stimulates the reconstruction of the collagen matrix and promotes healing phenomena and the synthesis of dermal collagen.  Zinc also makes it possible to combat aging phenomena by stabilizing proteins and stimulating the expression of genetic material.  Zinc is thus involved in the synthesis of keratin by contributing to the formation of intramolecular bridges. By promoting the synthesis and the stability of this structural protein, zinc ensures a good maintenance of the epidermis and the fiber. capillary.  Important research conducted by the Applicant has shown that a composition comprising (i) vegetable oils (echium, camelina, evening primrose and borage), with an omega-3 omega-6 ratio of between 1 and 5, (ii) trace elements (magnesium, copper and zinc), (iii) a vitamin C derivative (tocopheryl acetate) and (iv) an essential oil (Helichrysum) have a synergistic and overall action on the skin.  Accordingly, a first object of the invention is a cosmetic or dermatological composition characterized in that it comprises: (i) at least vegetable oils rich in omega-3 and / or omega-6 selected from the group comprising echium, camelina, evening primrose and borage oils, which vegetable oils are present in a proportion which makes it possible to obtain an omega-6 omega-3 ratio in said composition between 1 and 5, (ii ) at least one mineral, preferably in salt form, selected from the group consisting of sodium, calcium and magnesium, preferably magnesium, (iii) at least one trace element selected from the group consisting of zinc, copper and iron, preferably in the group consisting of zinc and copper, (iv) at least vitamin C or a derivative thereof, and (v) at least one essential oil, which has anti -radicals, preferably a 5 Helichrysum essential oil.  The composition according to the invention makes it possible to stimulate the production of energy and the proliferation of keratinocytes, to neutralize free radicals, to stimulate microcirculation, and therefore to perform a deep treatment.  Omega-3 and / or omega-6 rich for the purposes of the present invention means an oil having a concentration greater than 10% omega-3 and / or omega-6.  The person skilled in the art will be able to identify simply with regard to his general knowledge and with the help of routine experience vegetable oils rich in omega-3 and / or omega-6.  Similarly, those skilled in the art will be able to simply adjust the proportion of each of these oils to obtain an omega-6 omega-3 ratio in said composition of between 1 and 5.  Thus, and by way of example: a) Echium oil and more specifically echium seed oil has an average concentration of 30% of alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3).  b) Camelina oil and more specifically camelina seed oil has an average concentration of 35% alpha-linolenic acid (omega-3).  c) The evening primrose oil and more specifically the evening primrose oil has an average concentration of 10% gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6) and 70% linoleic acid.  d) Borage oil and more specifically borage seed oil has a mean concentration of 19% gamma-linolenic acid (omega-6) and 35% linoleic acid.  According to a first preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises oils of echium, camelina, evening primrose and borage and particularly preferably oils of echium seeds, camelina seeds, evening primrose seeds and borage seeds.  Vegetable oils of ecome, cameline rich in omega-3, evening primrose and borage rich in omega-6 were chosen because of their relatively constant content of active ingredient which allows to easily adjust the percentages for respect the omega-3 / omega-6 ratio between 1 and 5.  In addition, the provision of antioxidants and fatty acids provided by borage, evening primrose, echium and camelina oils is an effective measure for recovering or rapidly obtaining a beautiful skin.  In the composition according to the invention, the echium oil, by virtue of its AGE composition, actively stimulates the regeneration of the cell membranes and effectively combats the drying of the skin.  Those skilled in the art will be able to determine without difficulty the quantities of the different necessary to obtain the desired effect.  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of: a) echium oil of between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 1 and 5%, and / or b) camelina oil between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 1 and 5% and / or 2903014 c) borage oil between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 1 and 5%, and / or d) evening primrose oil between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 1 and 5%.  Essential oils are complex sets of fragrance products removed from various aromatic plant organs (roots, flowers, fruits, leaves) by distillation or expression, preferably by distillation.  The skilled person, in view of his general knowledge can easily identify essential oils with antiradical properties.  According to a second preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a helichrysum essential oil (helichrysum italicum), preferably a helichrysum oil obtained by steam distillation of the flowering tops.  Advantageously, the composition comprises a helichrysum essential oil content of between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 05 and 2. 5%.  According to a third preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises zinc, copper and magnesium.  Indeed, it appears that these three components stimulate cells by increasing the energy balance (ATP) and the basal metabolism.  By way of example, zinc, copper and magnesium are added to the composition according to the invention in the form of the Sepitonic M3 energizing mineral cocktail available from SEPPIC.  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a content of: a) magnesium of between 0.001% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 50%. 001 and 1%, and / or b) copper between 0.001% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 001 and 1%, and / or c) zinc between 0.001% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 001 and 1%.  Vitamin C (ascorbic acid) and its derivatives are well known to those skilled in the art.  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a content of vitamin C or of one of its derivatives between 0. 5% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0. 5% and 5%.  According to a fourth preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, as derivative of vitamin C, ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside or OaD-Glucopyranosyl- (1-2) ) -L-ascorbic acid).  The Applicant has in fact demonstrated that the addition of such a vitamin C derivative on the one hand reduces the melanin already produced and, on the other hand, to inhibit the production of new melanin.  A Vitamin C derivative stabilized with glucose combines with an enzyme present in the skin, alfaglucosidase, to allow delayed release of the active ingredient.  This slow release will reduce age-related pigmentation spots by inhibiting the production of melanin.  Such a derivative of vitamin C is especially available from HAYASHIBARA.  The compositions according to the invention may be in any of the galenical forms conventionally used, and which are well known to those skilled in the art, in the cosmetic or dermatological fields for application to the skin, such as, for example, oil emulsions. Water (O / W) or Water in Oil (W / O), lotions, sprays, gels, milks, creams, etc. without any particular galenic restriction other than those of compatibility of the composition with the excipient.  In addition, the compositions of the invention may also contain all the constituents conventionally used in these presentations as formulating agents, preserving agents, solubilizing agents, gelling agents, surfactants, fatty substances, propylene glycol, sorbitol, glycerol, perfume bases and water.  The composition according to the invention may further comprise at least one other active agent chosen from the group comprising the refining, restructuring, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and antiseptic agents of the skin.  Advantageously, the composition according to the invention then comprises a content of said active agent of between 1 and 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 10%.  A second subject of the invention corresponds to a cosmetic care method comprising a step of applying to the skin of a subject an effective amount of a composition as defined above.  The method of care according to the invention makes it possible to stimulate the production of energy, cell proliferation, neutralization of free radicals and microcirculation, to stimulate and protect the production of collagen, to reduce and inhibit the production of melanin.  A third object of the invention corresponds to the cosmetic use of a composition as described above to effect a deep treatment which stimulates the production of energy, boosts and accelerates cell renewal and inhibits the production of melanin.  The composition according to the invention protects the skin against the attack of free radicals and slows aging.  Other characteristics and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the following nonlimiting examples.  EXAMPLE 1 Complete Cream Multi-Action Face Care Sucrose Stearate 0. 5 to 6% Sucrose Distearate 0. 5 to 6% caprylic / capric triglyceride 3 to 15% Caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride 3 to 15% Echinacea oil Camelina oil Borage oil 25 Evening primrose oil Magnesium Copper Zinc HE Helichrysum Ascorbic Acid 2- Glucoside Tocopheryl acetate Urea Glycerin Sodium hyaluronate Potassium sorbate 0. 1 to 5% 0.  1 to 5% 0. 1 to 5% 0. 1 to 5% 0. 001 to 1% 0. 001 to 1% 0. 001 to 1% 0. 05 to 2. 5% 0. 5 to 5% 0. 05 to 1% 0. 5 to 2% 0. 5 to 3% 0. 5 to 3% 0. 2 to 0. 5% 2903014 Xanthan gum 0. 1 to 0. 5% Perfume qs Preservatives qs Water qs 100% 5 Example 2: Anti-radical activity 1) Objective of the study The hydroxyl radical is a highly reactive molecule whose production is activated by the various stresses on the skin (pollution, UV temperature variation, etc. ).  This radical is responsible for numerous damage in the cell and in particular the degradation of the membranes by the phenomenon of lipid peroxidation.  The objective of the present study was to appreciate the anti-radical potency of Helichrysum essential oil (Helichrysum Italicum) by the in vitro method of conjugated dienes.  This method makes it possible to test the protective action of said essential oil on liposomes (membrane analogues) subjected to attack by hydroxyl radicals (OH-) 2) Principle of the study The action of free radicals on fatty acids Polyunsaturated membranes correspond to peroxidation leading to the formation of absorbent conjugated dienes at 233 nm.  This peroxidation is therefore characterized by an absorption peak at 233 nm.  The activity of antioxidants can therefore be assayed by their ability to prevent the peroxidation of polyunsaturated fatty acids contained in liposomes (in vitro model closest to reality in vivo).  3) Materials and Methods 2903014 Reagents: - Phosphate Buffer 0. 05 M pH 6. 8 (Na2HPO4: 3. 55 g; KH2PO4: 3. 4 g; H2O qs 1000 ml) Solution of potassium thiocynate 0. 03 M (KSCN: 0. 3 g; Phosphate buffer qs 100 ml) Liposome suspension (Natipids: 3 g; Glydant (preservative): 0. 3 g; Distilled water qs 100 ml) Solution of FeCl2 at 2. 3 x 10-3 M H 2 O 2 solution at 110 volumes diluted with 10th solution of CaC12 at 0. M Heptane Protocol: The activity of a solution comprising 0. 1% helichrysum essential oil was simultaneously assayed with a control solution.  After homogenization, the solutions were left in an oven at 45 C overnight.  5 ml of each solution were then taken.  The lipids were precipitated by the addition of 5 ml of CaCl 2.  This mixture was stirred for 10 minutes with a magnetic stir bar, and the lipids were extracted by adding 10 ml of heptane and stirring for 15 minutes.  The UV spectrum (200 to 350 nm) of each solution was then recorded against heptane in quartz tanks.  A peak at 233 nm reflects the presence of conjugated dienes and makes it possible to quantify these with respect to the control.  Results: At the end of the test, it appears that the Helichrysum Essential Oil product (Helichrysum Italicum) inhibits the lipid peroxidation of 82% + 2 under the experimental conditions.  EXAMPLE 3 Stimulation of ATP Synthesis The cellular energy necessary for any activity is in the form of ATP.  The production of ATP is partly ensured by the degradation of simple carbohydrates such as glucose into pyruvate (glycolysis).  1) Principle of the test After 6 hours of incubation, the intracellular content of ATP was measured by bioluminescence using the ATP Monitoring kit (LABSYSTEMS) according to the manufacturer's instructions.  The results were expressed in mM ATP and as a percentage of the control group.  Effect of Sepitonic M3 and cytochrome C on the ATP content of keratinocytes after 6 hours of incubation: Cytochrome C 0.01%: ES 110% Sepitonic M3 0.001%: ES 128% The pyruvate initially produced converts to acetyl CoA the latter, via the citric acid cycle carried out in the mitochondria, produces a large quantity of NADH, H +. During cellular respiration, NADH, H + serves as an electron donor source.  Throughout the electron transport chain (and oxidative phosphorylation) the released energy allows the synthesis of ATP.  In conclusion, Sepitonic M3 energizes cells by stimulating cellular energy metabolism with greater efficiency than reference at 10-fold lower concentration.  The ATP production in the keratinocytes is then increased by 32% compared with the control.  This complementary ATP provides an additional energy reserve to improve cell function.  EXAMPLE 4 Exploration of the Proliferative Activity of an Omega 3 and Omega 6 Oily Complex on the Epidermal Structures After Multiple Applications on Human Skin Explants Maintained in Survival 1) Purpose of the Study This study aims to explore the proliferative activity of an oily complex on human skin explants maintained in survival.  The activity was evaluated by histological expertise of the general morphology of the skin after staining with Masson trichrome and immunostaining of mitotic cells (KI 67) (mitotic index).  2) Procedure Preparation of explants 15 Preparation of explants of human skin and survival in a specific medium.  The explants were divided into 2 lots of six explants and one control lot TO of three explants, as follows: TO Control Plasma 3 explants 20 T Untreated control 6 explants Pl Explants treated with the complex to be tested 6 explants Treatment 25 The treatment was performed at 2 hours after the preparation of the explants, and then at D1, D2, D4, D6 and D8.  The products were applied to the explants as follows: The explants received no treatment, the explants each received 25 ml of the oily complex deposited on a paper disk and applied to each explant.  The treatment was carried out by topical application of the product to be tested.  The product is then spread over the entire surface of the explant, using a spatula.  Half of the culture medium was renewed every two days and the explants were put back to life at 37 C in a humid atmosphere enriched with 5% CO2. Sampling for histology On D3 and D9, 3 explants of each batch were have been taken.  The samples were cut in half, one half was fixed in ordinary Bouin and the other half frozen at -80 C.  Morphological study After 24 hours of fixation in ordinary Bouin, the samples were dehydrated, paraffin-impregnated, put into blocks and 5-μm sections were made.  The morphological study of epidermal and dermal structures was performed on sections with Masson's trichrome, Goldner's variant.  Immunolabeling of KI 67 On the frozen specimens, 7 mm sections were made.  Immunolabeling of the cells in mitosis was performed on frozen sections with anti-KI 67 polyclonal antibody (Novo Castra) revealed in DAB (Di Amino Benzedine).  The positive cells were counted throughout the epidermal length and the averages referenced to the number of labeled cells per centimeter.  5 Results General Morphology TO Indicator: The stratum corneum is thick, compact, quite distinctly keratinized at the surface and at its base.  The epidermal structure has 4 to 5 cell bases 10 having a good morphology.  The relief of the dermal-epidermal junction is clear.  The papillary dermis shows a more or less fine collagen, quite dense and well cellularized.  Control at D3: The stratum corneum is thick, very slightly flaky, moderately keratinized at the surface and slightly at its base.  The epidermal structure has 5 to 6 cell layers with a good morphology.  The relief of the dermal-epidermal junction is clear.  The papillary dermis shows a more or less fine collagen, more or less dense and is well cellularized.  Complex of omega 3 / omega 6 fatty acids on day 3: The stratum corneum is thick, fairly compact, moderately keratinized at the surface and slightly at its base.  The epidermal structure has 3 to 4 cell layers.  The relief 25 of the dermo-epidermal junction is clear.  The papillary dermis shows a more or less fine collagen, not very dense and is well cellularized.  Control at day 9: The stratum corneum is thick, fairly compact, slightly keratinized at the surface and more clearly at its base.  The epidermal structure has 4 to 5 cell layers with a good morphology with slight spongiosis.  The relief of the dermal-epidermal junction is clear.  The papillary dermis shows a more or less fine collagen, fairly dense and is well cellularized.  Complex of omega 3 / omega 6 fatty acids at J9: The stratum corneum is thick, fairly flaky, markedly keratinized at the surface with moderate parakeratosis.  The epidermal structure has 4 to 5 cell layers.  The relief of the dermal-epidermal junction is clear.  The papillary dermis shows a more or less fine collagen, more or less dense and is well cellularized.  Mitotic Cells: The results of the mitotic cell counts are shown in the following table: Complex Control OJ 180 180 J3 25 80 Discussion General Morphology: On D3 and D9, the epidermal structure is normal on non explanted cells. treaties.  Of those treated with the omega 3 / omega 6 fatty acid complex, compared to untreated explants, the stratum corneum is substantially laminated, especially on D9.  The epidermal thickness is thinner on D3 and comparable to D9.  Mitotic Index: At day 3, the mitotic index showed a marked increase in the number of mitotic cells on the explants treated with the omega-3 / omega-6 fatty acid complex compared to the control explants.  Conclusion Under these operating conditions, the omega-3 / omega-6 fatty acid complex shows a clear stimulating activity on the keratinocytes.  Witness skin put in survival has a normal decrease of cells in mitosis.  The stimulation is measured by the ratio between 80 and 25.  Without assets, this drop is 86%.  With the oily complex, it is only 56%.  It can be inferred that there is 30% stimulation of cell division after 3 days.  Example 5: Action of Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside (AA-2G) on the reduction of melanin.  1) Method a) Culture of melanocytes for 48 hours b) Addition of AA2G at 2 mM for 48 hours c) Lysis of the cells for reading the amount of melanin contained.  2) Results: The results showed a 60% + 2 decrease in intracellular melanin in the presence of AA-2G.  Example 6: Inhibition of melanogenesis by AA-2G 1) Method a) Culture for 12 hours of melanocytes with AA-2G at 2. 5 mM + control without AA-2G.  B) Stimulation of melanogenesis by theophylline (0. 5 mM) c) Colorimetric detection of melanin (photos) 2) Results: The photos of the treated melanocytes showed a smaller amount of melanin developed than on untreated melanocytes.  Example 7: Evaluation of anti-collagenase activity 1) Purpose of the study The purpose of this study is to show the anticollagenase activity of an essential oil and a formulation containing an essential oil.  2) Procedure The anti-collagenase activity test was performed on frozen sections.  The products to be tested were mixed (volume to volume) with a collagenase solution at 60 U / ml.  The incubation was carried out in a humid chamber for 2 hours at 37 ° C.  The remaining collagen was stained with picro-sirius and quantified in image analysis.  Lot 1.  TRIS 2 buffer.  Collagenase at 30U / ml 2903014 24 3.  Reference R: Phenanthroline 4.  Reference R: Phenanthroline + collagenase at 60U / ml 5.  Product P2: Very precious cream immortelle ref 05. 34. A 5 6.  Product P2: Very precious cream immortelle ref 05. 34. A + collagenase at 60U / ml 3) Histological examination TRIS buffer The collagen observed is well structured.  Collagenase: The collagen observed is highly destructured.  Phenanthroline at 1. 25% The collagen observed is well structured.  Phenanthroline at 1. 25% + collagenase: The collagen observed is well structured.  Very precious immortal cream (0. 12% helichrysum).  The collagen observed is well structured.  Very precious immortal cream + Collagenase: 20 The observed collagen is well structured.  4) Color measurements in image analysis For each sample, 4 microscopic fields are analyzed according to the size of the sample.  Each microscopic field is digitized and analyzed according to the method described below by the LEICA QWIN software.  1.  Digitized image 2903014 25 Collagen network staining 2.  Collagen detection by thresholding Binary mask 0 3.  Determination of the area of interest 5 Exclusion of the epidermis and appendices Inversion of the mask to keep only the area corresponding to the dermis Binary mask 2 4.  Selection of collagen in the area of interest 10 Binary mask 3 = 2 + 0 5.  Surface measurement Measurement of the bit mask 3 Measurement of the bit mask 2 6.  Results Exporting the results to Excel 15 calculation of the percentage of area occupied by collagen in the dermis The results obtained as a percentage of the area occupied by collagen in the dermis Without collagenase With collagenase Average (Standard deviation (Standard deviation) type) Control (buffer 88. 3 (2. 9) <41.6 (2.1) TRIS) Positive reference 88.7 (1.5) 90.4 (3.8) (phenanthroline 1.25%) P2 Cream very 86.0 (4.4) 88.0 (2.9) precious Immortelle 2903014 Discussion Phenanthroline, tested at 1.25% as a positive reference, completely inhibits the effect of collagenase, thus validating the study. The results show that immortal very precious cream completely inhibits the action of collagenase in a proportion close to phenanthroline. Conclusion Under the operating conditions described above, the product Immortelle very precious cream has a strong anti-collagenase activity. Example 8: Study of the effect of the composition on the synthesis of type 1 collagen 1) Introduction: The dermal fibers: The fibers of the dermis comprise collagen fibers and elastic fibers. They represent quantitatively the proteins of the most important structures of the dermis, respectively 75% and 5% of their dry weight. Their relative proportion and their disposition are different according to the superficial or deep zones of the dermis. - Fibroblasts: fibroblasts are responsible for the synthesis and maintenance of extracellular material. These are cells of mesenchymal origin, which synthesize collagen, elastin, the basic substance and structural glycoproteins. - Collagen fibers: collagens form a very large family. These are extracellular matrix molecules composed of three polypeptide chains bearing the repetition of three amino acids: -Gly-X-Y, where X and Y are often prolines or hydroxyprolines. The collagen fibers of the dermis consist respectively of collagen I and collagen III, around an axis composed of collagen V. These collagens belong to the group of fibrillar collagens. In adults, collagen I is on average six times more abundant than collagen III. Collagens and aging: The collagen I / collagen III ratio decreases during aging. There is an exponential increase in chemical bridging between collagen fibers due to the non-enzymatic Maillard glycation reaction. This chemical bridging of collagen results in a stiffening of the fibers. Its degradation and renewal are thus slowed down. - Modification of fibroblasts: The fibroblast is a key cell of the connective tissue which is involved in the formation and stabilization of elastic fibers, but also in their dystrophy and lysis. During aging, the fibroblast decreases its activity and this resting cell is called fibrocyte. It becomes globular with a decrease in its cytoplasm and a rarefaction of its endoplasmic reticulum whose vesicles are very dispersed. This cell is no longer in contact with collagen. 2) Principle of the study The modification favoring the loss of elasticity and firmness of the skin due to the disorganization and

  collagen rarefaction has been studied in order to demonstrate the effectiveness of the compositions of the invention. Thus, the activity of the composition on the secretion of collagen I in the culture medium by fibroblasts was evaluated. The experimental model used consists of a culture of normal human fibroblasts until confluence. The cells are incubated with the 0.05% composition (non-cytotoxic concentration revealed for the MTT test cells). By the ELISA method (Enzyme-Linked Immuno Sorbent Assay), which has the advantage of easy, sensitive and specific implementation, we dose type I collagen at the level of the culture medium. 3) Material and method Initially fibroblast cultures were established by the explant method from samples of healthy Caucasian skin (abdominoplasty). The fibroblasts are cultured to confluence at 37 ° C in MEM (Minimum Essential Medium) containing 2 mM L-Glutamine and 10% fetal calf serum in a saturated moisture atmosphere with 5% CO 2. Then, after detachment with a buffered isotonic solution pH 7.2 of 0.1% trypsin and 0.02% EDTA, the cells are seeded into 96-well microplates (Falcon) at 104 cells per well in the aforementioned medium. After 24 hours, this medium is replaced for a 48-hour incubation with the same serum-free medium containing 0.15 mM sodium ascorbate (incubation medium) with or without the active compound complex to be tested. One type of fibroblast was chosen for the study. They are fibroblasts at the fourth passage or culture subculture, representing cells having normal characteristics (fusiform or star-shaped appearance, good metabolic activity, good spreading capacity, etc.). The amount of type I collagen secreted into the medium after incubation with or without the active complex was then determined using an ELISA test. This method makes it possible to detect certain non-radioactive molecules at very low doses. A direct method was chosen consisting of the absorption of the antigen (type I collagen) to a solid phase (plastic of a microtiter plate reserved for ELISA). For this, the incubation medium is collected and transferred to the wells of a microtiter plate. A 24 hour incubation at +4 ° C allows adhesion of the collagen to the plastic. The plate is then rinsed with PBS (Phosphate Buffer Saline). After 24 hours incubation at + 4C with serum albumin (2% in PBS) to avoid nonspecific anti-body binding of antibodies, anti-mouse antibodies to anticollagen I (sigma) (dilution 1 / 2000) conjugated to alkaline phosphatase (2 hours at RT) which in the presence of paranitrophenyl phosphate, will produce absorbing paranitrophenol at 405 nm (1 hour at RT). The optical densities obtained are converted into ng of collagen by means of a calibration curve established under the same experimental conditions with collagen type I. 4) Results: The results showed that the composition used at 0.05% in the medium culture allows the fibroblasts to synthesize up to 6 times more collagen type I compared to the control (culture medium alone). The cosmetic composition initiates and boosts the synthesis programs of one of the major components of the extracellular matrix of the dermis, type I collagen. The composition therefore acts as an excellent booster for the reorganization of collagen fibers and thus makes it possible to improve the tone of the skin.

EXAMPLE 9 Evaluation of the Very Precious Cream 1) Objective: Evaluation of the anti-wrinkle efficacy of the product. 2) Evaluation Criteria: Analysis of cutaneous relief from cutaneous impressions. 3) Method of application: 2903014 The product is applied to the entire cleansed face of 44 volunteers every night for eight weeks. The details of a mode of application are detailed below. OJ - one - Verification of inclusion criteria and week of non-inclusion - Signature of consent - Discount of the reference product OJ - one - Application of the reference product to the week - OJ home twice a day (morning and evening) on the OJ face - Achieving a skin print. - Delivery of the very precious cream care. OJ - J28 - Application of the product at home once a day (evening) on the face and application of the reference product once a day (in the morning on the face J 28 - Verification of the respect of the protocol - Evaluation of the Tolerability - Collection of Adverse Events and Concomitant Therapies - Achievement of Skin Impression J 28 - D 56 - Application of the product at home once a day (evening) on the face and application of the reference product once per day day (in the morning on the face) J 56 - Verification of compliance with the protocol - Collection of the product and the monitoring sheet - Evaluation of the tolerance - Collection of adverse events and concomitant treatments - Answer to the acceptability questionnaire 2903014 31 - Achievement of the skin impression 4) Results: From four weeks, decrease in the number of wrinkles by 16% and the wrinkled total surface of 26% (average improvement 5 measured out of 25 volunteers After eight weeks of use, efficiency is felt. The results obtained are described below. Skin is firmer 89% Skin is smoother 87% Skin feels refreshed 89% Wrinkles are reduced 85%

Claims (13)

  1. A cosmetic or dermatological composition characterized in that it comprises: (i) at least vegetable oils rich in omega-3 and / or omega-6 selected from the group consisting of oils of echium, camelina, evening primrose and borage, which vegetable oils are present in a proportion which makes it possible to obtain an omega-6 omega-6 ratio in the said composition of between 1 and 5, (ii) at least one mineral, preferably in the form of salt. , selected from the group comprising sodium, calcium and magnesium, preferably magnesium, (iii) at least one micronutrient selected from the group consisting of zinc, copper and iron, preferably from the group consisting of zinc and copper, (iv) at least vitamin C or a derivative thereof, and (v) at least one essential oil, which has anti-radical properties.   2. The composition according to claim 1, characterized in that said essential oil is an essential oil of helichrysum (helichrysum italicum).   3. The composition according to claim 2, characterized in that said composition comprises a helichrysum essential oil content of between 0.05% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.05 and 2.5.   4. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises oils of echium, camelina, evening primrose and borage. 2903014 33   5. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises a content of: a) echium oil of between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 5%, and / or b) camelina oil between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 5%, and / or 10 c) borage oil between 0 , 1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1 and 5%, and / or d) evening primrose oil between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 10% of the total weight of the composition. and 5%. 15   6. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises a content of: a) magnesium of between 0.001% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.001 and 1%, and / or b) copper of between 0.001% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.001 and 1%, and / or c) zinc of between 0.001% and 5% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.001 and 1%.   7. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises zinc, copper and magnesium.   8. The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises a content of vitamin C or a derivative thereof of between 0.5% and 10% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.5% and 5%.   9.The composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition comprises a derivative of vitamin C, preferably ascorbic acid 2-glucoside (Ascorbic Acid 2-Glucoside or OaD-Glucopyranosyl- ( 1- + 2) -L-ascorbic acid). 2903014 34   10. The composition as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that said composition further comprises at least one other active agent chosen from the group comprising the agents refining, restructuring, anti-inflammatory, moisturizing and antiseptic of the skin. .   11. The composition of claim 10, characterized in that said composition comprises a content of said active between 1 and 20% of the total weight of the composition, preferably between 1 and 10%.   12. A cosmetic care method comprising a step of applying to the skin of a subject an effective amount of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11.   13. A cosmetic use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 11 for performing a deep treatment that stimulates microcirculation and energy production to energize cells and accelerate their renewal, protect collagen and fight against pigmentation spots.