FR2892626A1 - Non-detergent cosmetic composition, useful for hair treatment e.g. hair styling and/or hair maintenance, comprises an O-carboxymethyl starch and a cationic polymer, in a medium - Google Patents

Abstract

Non-detergent cosmetic composition comprises an O-carboxymethyl starch and a cationic polymer, in a medium. An independent claim is included for a cosmetic process of a hair treatment comprising applying the composition on the hair and optionally rinsing after an exposure time.

Description

Non-detergent cosmetic composition comprising a starch

  O-carboxymethyl and a cationic polymer, and its use as a hair care product.

  The present invention relates to a non-detergent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one O-carboxymethylated starch, and at least one cationic polymer. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method using the aforementioned composition, and a use of said cosmetic composition as a hair care product, for example as a styling product. Many hair care products have been described in the prior art. The corresponding compositions are intended to provide good cosmetic properties to the hair. However, these compositions are often heavy: the hairstyle is fixed, drooping, lack of volume and styling. The Applicant has discovered, surprisingly, that the combination of a particular thickening polymer with a cationic polymer makes it possible to obtain a hair care composition having excellent cosmetic properties, while providing improved styling properties: the hair are softer, smoother, and the hairstyle is softer, more natural, with volume and styling. The present invention therefore relates to a non-detergent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one O-carboxymethylated starch, and at least one cationic polymer.

  Another subject of the invention consists of a cosmetic hair treatment method using a composition according to the invention as described below.

  The subject of the invention is also the use of the composition according to the invention for the cosmetic treatment of the hair. Other objects, features, aspects and advantages of the invention will emerge even more clearly on reading the description and the various examples which follow. According to the invention, the non-detergent cosmetic composition comprises, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one O-carboxymethyl starch and at least one cationic polymer. By "cosmetically acceptable medium" is meant a medium that is compatible with keratin materials and in particular the hair. Preferably, the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water and / or a cosmetically acceptable solvent chosen from C1-C4 lower alcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as propylene glycol; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3-4 ketones such as acetone and methyl ethyl ketone; C1-C4 alkyl acetates such as methyl acetate, ethyl acetate and butyl acetate; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures. For the purpose of the present invention, the term "non-detergent composition" is intended to mean a composition that is not intended for washing keratin materials. Such a composition therefore does not contain a washing base consisting of detergent surfactants, or when such a washing base is present, its content is moderate, preferably less than 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  In particular, the non-detergent compositions according to the invention contain at most 3% by weight of anionic surfactants, relative to the total weight of the composition. According to the present invention, O-carboxymethylated starch is a starch which has been chemically modified by substitution, in free hydroxyl groups, of a hydrogen with a carboxymethyl group -CH2COOH. It may be present as such, or in salt form, for example an alkali metal salt.

  O-carboxylmethyl starch may be prepared, for example, by reacting the starch with monochloroacetic acid, or an alkaline salt of monochloroacetic acid (e.g., the sodium salt). Preferably, the 0-carboxymethyl starch is in the form of an alkali metal salt. Even more preferably, it is in the form of a sodium salt. Starch can be of very different origins. It can come from among others a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables, fruits. Examples include corn, peas, potatoes, sweet potatoes, bananas, barley, wheat, rice, oats, sago, tapioca, sorghum. Preferably, the starch comes from the potato. The starch may also be crosslinked in whole or in part. Preferably, it is partially crosslinked. The crosslinking of the starch can be carried out for example by heating the starch, or by reacting it with crosslinking agents such as phosphates, glycerol. Even more preferably, the 0-carboxymethylated starch is a sodium salt of 0-carboxymethylated and partially crosslinked potato starch. Such a product is for example marketed under the name PRIMOJEL by the company AVEBE. The composition according to the invention preferably contains at least 0.01% by weight of O-carboxymethyl starch, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, it contains from 0.01 to 20% by weight of 0-carboxymethyl starch, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 5% by weight, relative to total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention also comprises at least one cationic polymer.

  By "cationic polymer" is meant any polymer containing cationic groups and / or groups ionizable cationic groups. The cationic polymers that may be used in accordance with the present invention may be chosen from all those already known per se as improving the cosmetic properties of the hair, namely in particular those described in the patent application EP-A-0 337 354 and in the French patent applications FR. -A- 2,270,846, 2,383,660, 2,598,611, 2,470,596 and 2,519,863.

  The preferred cationic polymers are chosen from those containing units containing primary, secondary, tertiary and / or quaternary amine groups that may either be part of the main polymer chain or may be carried by a lateral substituent directly connected thereto.

  Among the cationic polymers, mention may be made more particularly of the polyamine, polyaminoamide and quaternary polyammonium type polymers. These are known products. They are for example described in French patents Nos. 2,505,348 and 2,542,997. Among these polymers, mention may be made of: (1) homopolymers or copolymers derived from acrylic or methacrylic esters or amides and comprising at least one of the following formulas: R3 ùCH2 C 7 0 = C OI

  Wherein R 1 and R 2, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, and preferably a methyl or ethyl group; R3, which may be identical or different, denote a hydrogen atom or a CH3 group; the symbols A, identical or different, represent a linear or branched alkyl group containing from 1 to 6 carbon atoms, preferably 2 or 3 carbon atoms, or a hydroxyalkyl group containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; R4, R5, R6, which may be identical or different, represent an alkyl group having from 1 to 18 carbon atoms or a benzyl group, and preferably an alkyl group having from 1 to 6 carbon atoms; X denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid such as a methosulphate anion or a halide such as chloride or bromide. The copolymers of family (1) may also contain one or more units derived from comonomers which may be chosen from the family of acrylamides, methacrylamides, diacetone-acrylamides, acrylamides and methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by lower alkyl groups. (C1-C4), groups derived from acrylic or methacrylic acids or their esters, vinyllactams such as vinylpyrrolidone or vinylcaprolactam, vinyl esters. Thus, among these copolymers of the family (1), mention may be made of: the copolymers of acrylamide and of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with dimethyl sulphate or with a dimethyl halide; copolymers of acrylamide and of methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium chloride; described, for example, in the patent application EP-A-080976, the copolymers of acrylamide and methacryloyloxyethyltrimethylammonium methosulphate, the vinylpyrrolidone / dialkylaminoalkyl acrylate or methacrylate copolymers quaternized or otherwise. These polymers are described in detail in French Pat. Nos. 2,077,143 and 2,393,573, dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate / vinylcaprolactam / vinylpyrrolidone terpolymers, vinylpyrrolidone / methacrylamidopropyl-dimethylamine copolymers, and quaternized vinylpyrrolidone / dimethylaminopropyl methacrylamide copolymers. . (2) The cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups described in French Patent 1,492,597, and in particular the polymers sold under the names "JR" (JR 400, JR 125, JR 30M) or "LR" (LR 400, LR 30M) by Union Carbide Corporation. These polymers are also defined in the CTFA dictionary as quaternary ammoniums of hydroxyethylcellulose reacted with an epoxide substituted with a trimethylammonium group. (3) Cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and described in particular in US Pat. No. 4 131 576, such as hydroxyalkylcelluloses, such as hydroxymethyl-, hydroxyethyl or hydroxypropyl-celluloses grafted in particular with a salt of methacryloylethyltrimethylammonium, methacrylamidopropyltrimethylammonium, dimethyldiallylammonium salt.

  The marketed products corresponding to this definition are more particularly the products sold under the name "Celquat L 200" and "Celquat H 100" by the company National Starch. (4) Non-cellulosic cationic polysaccharides disclosed in US Pat. Nos. 3,589,578 and 4,031,307, such as guar gums containing trialkylammonium cationic groups. For example, guar gums modified with a salt, for example chloride, of 2,3-epoxypropyltrimethylammonium are used. Such products are marketed in particular under the trade names JAGUAR C13S, JAGUAR C15, JAGUAR C17 or JAGUAR C162 by the company MEYHALL. (5) Polymers consisting of piperazinyl units and straight or branched chain alkylene or hydroxyalkylene divalent groups optionally interrupted by oxygen, sulfur, nitrogen or aromatic or heterocyclic rings, as well as oxidation and / or quaternization of these polymers. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patents 2 162 025 and 2 280 361. (6) The water-soluble polyaminoamides, prepared in particular by polycondensation of an acidic compound with a polyamine; these polyaminoamides may be crosslinked by an epihalohydrin, a diepoxide, a dianhydride, an unsaturated dianhydride, a bis-unsaturated derivative, a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bis-haloacyldiamine, a bis-alkyl halide or else by an oligomer resulting from the reaction of a bifunctional compound which is reactive with a bis-halohydrin, a bis-azetidinium, a bishaloacyldiamine, an alkyl bis-halide, a epilhalohydrin, a diepoxide or bis-unsaturated derivative; the crosslinking agent being used in proportions ranging from 0.025 to 0.35 moles per amine group of the polyaminoamide; these polyaminoamides can be alkylated or if they comprise one or more tertiary amine functional groups, quaternized. Such polymers are especially described in French patents 2,252,840 and 2,368,508. (7) Polyamino amide derivatives resulting from the condensation of polyalkylene-polyamines with polycarboxylic acids, followed by alkylation with difunctional agents. Mention may be made, for example, of adipic acid / diakylaminohydroxyalkyl-dialkylenetriamine polymers in which the alkyl group contains from 1 to 4 carbon atoms and preferably denotes a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, and the alkylene group contains from 1 to 4 atoms. carbon, and preferably denotes the ethylene group. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent 1,583,363. Among these derivatives, mention may be made more particularly of adipic acid / dimethylaminohydroxypropyl-diethylenetriamine polymers. (8) The polymers obtained by reacting a polyalkylene polyamine comprising two primary amine groups and at least one secondary amine group, with a dicarboxylic acid chosen from diglycolic acid and saturated aliphatic dicarboxylic acids having from 3 to 8 carbon atoms. carbon. The molar ratio between the polyalkylene-polylamine and the dicarboxylic acid being between 0.8: 1 and 1.4: 1; the polyaminoamide resulting therefrom being reacted with epichlorohydrin in a molar ratio of epichlorohydrin relative to the secondary amine group of the polyaminoamide of between 0.5: 1 and 1.8: 1. Such polymers are described in particular in the patents US 3 227 615 and 2 961 347. (9) Cyclopolymers of alkyldiallylamine or of dialkyldiallylammonium such as homopolymers or copolymers comprising, as main constituent of the chain, units corresponding to formulas (Va) or (Vb): (CH) ) - (CH 2) t- - CR 12 C (R 12) -CH 2 -H 2 CH / 2 (Va) / N Y-R 10 R 11 / (CH) k - (CH 2) t-CR 12 (R 12) -CH 2 -H 2 C In which k and t are 0 or 1, the sum k + t being equal to 1; R12 denotes a hydrogen atom or a methyl group; R10 and R11, independently of each other, denote an alkyl group having 1 to 6 carbon atoms, a hydroxyalkyl group in which the alkyl group preferably has 1 to 5 carbon atoms, a lower amidoalkyl group (C1 -C4), or else R10 and R11 may designate, together with the nitrogen atom to which they are attached, heterocyclic groups, such as piperidinyl or morpholinyl; Y- is an anion such as bromide, chloride, acetate, borate, citrate, tartrate, bisulfate, bisulfite, sulfate, phosphate. These polymers are in particular described in French patent 2,080,759 and in its certificate of addition 2,190,406. R10 and R11, independently of one another, preferably denote an alkyl group having from 1 to 4 carbon atoms. . Among the polymers defined above, mention may be made more particularly of the homopolymer of dimethyldiallylammonium chloride sold under the name "Merquat 100" by the company Calgon (and its counterparts of low molecular weight by weight) and the copolymers of sodium chloride. diallyldimethylammonium and acrylamide sold under the name "MERQUAT 550". (10) Quaternary diammonium polymers containing repeating units corresponding to formula (VI): wherein R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, represent aliphatic groups , alicyclic or arylaliphatic containing from 1 to 20 carbon atoms or lower hydroxyalkylaliphatic groups, or R13, R14, R15 and R16, together or separately, together with the nitrogen atoms to which they are attached, constitute heterocycles optionally containing a second heteroatom other than nitrogen, or R13, R14, R15 and R16 represent a linear or branched C1-C6 alkyl group substituted with a nitrile, ester, acyl, amide or -CO-O-R17-E group or CO-NH-R17-E wherein R17 is an alkylene group and E is a quaternary ammonium group; Al and B1 represent polymethylene groups containing from 2 to 20 carbon atoms, which may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, and may contain, bound to or intercalated in the main chain, one or more aromatic rings, or one or more atoms oxygen, sulfur or sulfoxide, sulfone, disulfide, amino, alkylamino, hydroxyl, quaternary ammonium, ureido, amide or ester groups, and X- denotes an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid; A1, R13 and R15 can form with the two nitrogen atoms to which they are attached a piperazine ring; in addition, if Al denotes a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated alkylene or hydroxyalkylene group, B1 may also denote a group: - (CH2) n -CO-E'-OC- (CH2) n- in which E 'denotes: a) a glycol residue of formula -OZO-, where Z denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or a group corresponding to one of the following formulas: - (CH 2 -CH 2 -O) x -CH 2 -CH 2 - [ CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -O] n -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) - where x and y denote an integer of 1 to 4, representing a defined and unique degree of polymerization or any number from 1 to 4 representing a average degree of polymerization; b) a bis-secondary diamine residue such as a piperazine derivative; c) a bis-primary diamine residue of formula -NH-Y-NH-, where Y denotes a linear or branched hydrocarbon group, or the divalent group -CH 2 -CH 2 -S-S-CH 2 -CH 2 -; d) a ureylene group of formula -NH-CO-NH-. Preferably, X "is an anion such as chloride or bromide.Polymers of this type are described in particular in French patents 2,330,330, 2,270,846, 2,316,271, 2,336,434 and 2,413,907 and patents U.S. 2,273,780, 2,375,853, 2,388,614, 2,454,547, 3,206,462, 2,261,002, 2,271,378, 3,874,870, 4,001,432, 3,929,990, 3,966,904, 4,005,193, and the like. 025 617, 4,025,627, 4,025,653, 4,026,945 and 4,027,020. Polymers which consist of repeating units having the formula: Ria Ris 1+ + ù (CH 2) n ùN N can be used more particularly. Wherein R13, R14, R15 and R16, which may be identical or different, denote an alkyl or hydroxyalkyl group having from 1 to about 4 carbon atoms, n and p are variant integers from about 2 to about 20, and X- is an anion derived from a mineral or organic acid. (11) Quaternary polyammonium polymers consisting of units of formula (VIII): R18 R 1 20 ùN + ù (CH 2) -NHCO (CH2) - CO1NH- ( Wherein R18, R19, R20 and R21, which may be identical or different, represent a hydrogen atom or a methyl, ethyl, propyl or [3-hydroxyethyl] group, (3-hydroxypropyl or -CH 2 CH 2 (OCH 2 CH 2) pOH, wherein p is 0 or an integer of 1 to 6, with the proviso that R 18, R 19, R 20 and R 21 do not simultaneously represent a hydrogen atom, r and s, identical or different, are integers between 1 and 6, q is 0 or an integer between 1 and 34, X- is an anion such as a halide, A is a radical of a dihalide or is preferably -CH2-CH2-O-CH2-CH2-. Such compounds are described in particular in patent application EP-A-122 324. (12) Quaternary polymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinylimidazole. (13) Crosslinked polymers of methacryloyloxyalkyl (C1-C4) trialkyl (C1-C4) ammonium salts such as polymers obtained by homopolymerization of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate quaternized with methyl chloride, or by copolymerization of acrylamide with methacrylate of dimethylaminoethyl quaternized by methyl chloride, the homopolymerization or copolymerization being followed by crosslinking with an olefinically unsaturated compound, in particular methylene-bisacrylamide. Other cationic polymers that can be used in the context of the invention are cationic proteins or hydrolysates of cationic proteins, polyalkyleneimines, in particular polyethyleneimines, polymers containing vinylpyridine or vinylpyridinium units, condensates of polyamines and of epichlorohydrin, quaternary polyureylenes and chitin derivatives. Among all the cationic polymers that may be used in the context of the present invention, it is preferred to use the cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups as described in (2) above, the cellulose derivatives cationic compounds such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer as described in (3) above, and homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride as described in (9) below. before. The compositions according to the invention preferably contain at least 0.001% by weight of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, they contain from 0.001 to 10% by weight of such a polymer, more preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight, and even more preferably from 0.1 to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Preferably, the weight ratio between the O-carboxymethyl starch and the cationic polymer is between 0.5 and 5. The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one fatty substance. The fatty substances that can be used in the present invention are chosen in particular from vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, natural or synthetic oils, fatty alcohols and mixtures thereof. As vegetable oil, there may be mentioned sweet almond oil, avocado oil, castor oil, olive oil, liquid jojoba wax, sunflower oil, wheat germ oil, sesame oil, peanut oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil, rapeseed oil, safflower oil, coconut oil , corn oil, hazelnut oil, palm oil, apricot kernel oil, calophyllum oil, evening primrose oil, shea butter, rice bran, corn germ oil, passionflower oil and rye oil. As animal oil, there may be mentioned perhydrosqualene. As mineral oil, mention may be made of paraffin oil and liquid petroleum jelly.

  Synthetic oils that may especially be mentioned include squalane, poly (α-olefins) such as isododecane or isohexadecane, transesterified vegetable oils and fluorinated oils, fatty esters. The term "fatty esters" denotes compounds of formula RaCOORb in which Ra represents the residue of a linear or branched, hydroxylated or unsaturated, saturated or unsaturated higher acid containing from 4 to 29 carbon atoms and Rb represents a linear hydrocarbon chain or branched, saturated or unsaturated containing from 3 to 30 carbon atoms, the total number of carbon atoms of the ester being greater than 10. By way of examples, mention may be made especially of Purcellin oil (stearyl octanoate) ), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, butyl stearate, hexyl laurate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, 2-hexyldecyl laurate, palmitate 2 -octyldecyl, 2-octyldodecyl myristate, isostearyl neopentanoate or tridecyl neopentanoate. Preferred fatty alcohols include myristyl, cetyl, stearyl, arachidyl, behenyl and erucyl alcohols. The fatty substances as described above, when they are present in the composition according to the invention, are preferably present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight. and more preferably from 5 to 15% by weight, based on the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one surfactant chosen from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants and amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants. The concentration of anionic surfactants is then less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. The composition according to the invention then preferably comprises at least 0.01% by weight of surfactant (s), relative to the total weight of the composition. Preferably, the composition according to the invention contains from 0.01 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s), more preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  By way of example of anionic surfactants that may be used in the compositions according to the present invention, mention may be made in particular (non-limiting list) of the salts (in particular alkaline salts, in particular sodium salts, ammonium salts, amine salts, sodium salts and the like). aminoalcohols or alkaline earth (magnesium) salts of the following compounds: alkylsulfates, alkyl ether sulfates, alkylamido ether sulfates, alkylaryl polyether sulfates, monoglyceride sulfates; alkylsulfonates, alkylphosphates, alkylamidesulfonates, alkylarylsulfonates, α-olefin-sulfonates, paraffinsulfonates; alkylsulfosuccinates; alkyl ether sulfosuccinates, alkyl amide sulfosuccinates; alkylsulfosuccinamates; alkylsulfoacetates; alkyl ether phosphates, acylsarcosinates; acylisethionates and N-acyltaurates, the alkyl or acyl radical of all these different compounds preferably comprising from 12 to 20 carbon atoms, and the aryl radical preferably denoting a phenyl or benzyl group. Among the anionic surfactants that can still be used, mention may also be made of fatty acid salts such as the oleic, ricinoleic, palmitic and stearic acid salts; coconut oil or hydrogenated coconut oil acids; acyl lactylates whose acyl radical has 8 to 20 carbon atoms. It is also possible to use weakly anionic surfactants, such as alkyl D galactoside uronic acids and their salts, as well as polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24) alkyl carboxylic ether acids, polyoxyalkylenated (C 6 -C 24) aryl ether carboxylic acids, and polyoxyalkylenated alkyl (C 6 -C 24) amino ether carboxylic acids and their salts, in particular those containing from 2 to 50 ethylene oxide groups and their mixtures. Among the anionic surfactants, it is preferred to use, according to the invention, the salts of alkyl sulphates and alkyl ether sulphates and their mixtures. The cationic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention comprise, for example, primary, secondary or tertiary fatty amine salts, optionally polyoxyalkylenated salts, quaternary ammonium salts, and mixtures thereof. As quaternary ammonium salts, mention may be made, for example: - those corresponding to the following general formula (I): + R 11 R 11 in which the radicals R 8 to R 11, which may be identical or different, represent a radical aliphatic, linear or branched, having from 1 to 30 carbon atoms, or an aromatic radical such as aryl or alkylaryl. The aliphatic radicals may comprise heteroatoms such as in particular oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and halogens. The aliphatic radicals are, for example, chosen from C1-C30 alkyl, C1-C30 alkoxy, (C2-C6) polyoxyalkylene, C1-C30 alkylamide, (C12-C22) alkylamido (C2-C6) alkyl radicals, (C12-C22) alkyl radicals, and C1-30 hydroxyalkyl; X is an anion selected from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, (C 2 -C 6) alkyl sulphates, alkyl- or alkylarylsulfonates.

  Of the quaternary ammonium salts of formula (I), tetraalkylammonium chlorides, such as, for example, dialkyldimethylammonium or alkyltrimethylammonium chlorides in which the alkyl radical contains from about 12 to 22 carbon atoms, are preferred on the one hand. , in particular behenyltrimethylammonium, distearyl dimethylammonium, cetyltrimethylammonium, benzyldimethylstearylammonium chlorides or else palmitylamidopropyltrimethylammonium chloride or stearamidopropyldimethyl (myristyl acetate) ammonium chloride, sold under the name CERAPHYL 70 by the VAN DYK company. the quaternary ammonium salts of imidazoline, such as, for example, those of formula (II) below: wherein R 12 represents an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, derivatives of tallow fatty acids, R13 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical or an alkenyl or alkyl radical containing from 8 to 30 carbon atoms, R14 represents a C1-C4 alkyl radical, R15 represents a hydrogen atom, a C1-C4 alkyl radical, X- is an anion chosen from the group of halides, phosphates, acetates, lactates, alkyl sulphates, alkyl or alkylaryl sulphonates. Preferably, R12 and R13 denote a mixture of alkenyl or alkyl radicals containing from 12 to 21 carbon atoms, for example fatty acid derivatives of tallow, R14 denotes a methyl radical, R15 denotes a hydrogen atom. Such a product is for example marketed under the name REWOQUAT W 75 by the company REWO; the quaternary diammonium salts of formula (III) ++ R 17 R 19 R 16 -N- (CH 2) 3 -N-R 21 2X- (III) R 18 R 20 in which R 16 denotes an aliphatic radical containing approximately from 16 to 30 carbon atoms ; R17, R18i R19, R20 and R21, which are identical or different, are chosen from a hydrogen atom and an alkyl radical containing from 1 to 4 carbon atoms; and X is an anion selected from the group of halides, acetates, phosphates, nitrates and methylsulfates.

  Such diammonium quaternary salts include in particular propane dichloride diammonium; the quaternary ammonium salts containing at least one ester function, such as those of the following formula (IV): ## STR5 ## wherein R 1 (R 2) n R22 is selected from C1-C6 alkyl radicals and C1-C6 hydroxyalkyl or dihydroxyalkyl radicals; R 23 is chosen from: O - the radical II R 26 ùC - - the linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C 1 -C 22 hydrocarbon-based R 27 radicals, - the hydrogen atom, R 25 is chosen from: O - the radical II R28 ùC ù - R29 hydrocarbon radicals C1-C6, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, 20 - the hydrogen atom, R24, R26 and R28, identical or different, are chosen from hydrocarbon radicals C7-C21 linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; r, s and t, identical or different, are integers ranging from 2 to 6; y is an integer from 1 to 10; X and z, identical or different, are integers ranging from 0 to 10; X- is a simple or complex anion, organic or inorganic; with the proviso that the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 15, that when x is 0 then R23 is R27 and that when z is 0 then R25 is R29.

  The alkyl radicals R22 may be linear or branched and more particularly linear. Preferably, R 22 denotes a methyl, ethyl, hydroxyethyl or dihydroxypropyl radical, and more particularly a methyl or ethyl radical. Advantageously, the sum x + y + z is from 1 to 10. When R 23 is a hydrocarbon radical R 27, it can be long and have from 12 to 22 carbon atoms, or short and have from 1 to 3 carbon atoms.

  When R 25 is a hydrocarbon R 29 radical, it preferably has 1 to 3 carbon atoms. Advantageously, R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C11-C21 hydrocarbon radicals, and more particularly from linear or branched, saturated or saturated C11-C21 alkyl and alkenyl radicals. or unsaturated. Preferably, x and z, which are identical or different, are equal to 0 or 1. Advantageously, y is equal to 1. Preferably, r, s and t, identical or different, are equal to 2 or 3, and even more particularly are equal to 2 The anion is preferably a halide (chloride, bromide or iodide) or an alkyl sulphate, more particularly methyl sulphate. However, it is possible to use methanesulphonate, phosphate, nitrate, tosylate, an anion derived from an organic acid such as acetate or lactate or any other anion compatible with ammonium with an ester function. The X- anion is even more particularly chloride or methylsulfate. In the composition according to the invention, the ammonium salts of formula (IV) are used more particularly in which: R 22 denotes a methyl or ethyl radical, x and y are equal to 1; - zestal to 0 or 1; r, s and t are equal to 2; - R23 is chosen from: - the radical O Il R26-C- - methyl, ethyl or C14-C22 hydrocarbon radicals, - the hydrogen atom; R 25 is chosen from: ## STR2 ## the radical R 28 ùC - the hydrogen atom; - R24, R26 and R28, which are identical or different, are chosen from linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C13-C17 hydrocarbon radicals, and preferably from linear or branched, saturated or branched C13-C17 alkyl and alkenyl radicals; unsaturated. Advantageously, the hydrocarbon radicals are linear. There may be mentioned, for example, the compounds of formula (IV) such as the salts (in particular chloride or methylsulfate) of diacyloxyethyl dimethylammonium, of diacyloxyethylhydroxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl dihydroxyethylmethylammonium, of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium, of monoacyloxyethyl- hydroxyethyl dimethylammonium and mixtures thereof. The acyl radicals preferably have from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and come more particularly from a vegetable oil such as palm oil or sunflower oil. When the compound contains more than one acyl radical, the latter may be identical or different. These products are obtained, for example, by direct esterification of triethanolamine, triisopropanolamine, alkyldiethanolamine or alkyldiisopropanolamine optionally oxyalkylenated on fatty acids or mixtures of fatty acids of plant or animal origin, or by transesterification. of their methyl esters. This esterification is followed by a quaternization using an alkylating agent such as an alkyl halide (preferably methyl or ethyl), a dialkyl sulphate (preferably methyl or ethyl), methane. methyl sulfonate, methyl para-toluenesulfonate, glycol or glycerol chlorohydrin.

  Such compounds are for example sold under the names DEHYQUART by Henkel, STEPANQUAT by STEPAN, NOXAMIUM by CECA, REWOQUAT WE 18 by REWO-WITCO.

  The composition according to the invention may contain, for example, a mixture of quaternary ammonium mono-, di- and triester salts with a majority by weight of diester salts. As a mixture of ammonium salts, it is possible to use, for example, the mixture containing 15 to 30% by weight of acyloxyethyl-dihydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate, 45 to 60% of diacyloxyethyl-hydroxyethyl-methylammonium methylsulfate and 15 to 30% of triacyloxyethylmethylammonium methylsulfate, the acyl radicals having from 14 to 18 carbon atoms and coming from partially hydrogenated palm oil.

  It is also possible to use the ammonium salts containing at least one ester function described in US-A-4874554 and US-A-4137180. The nonionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention are well-known compounds per se (see in particular in this connection "Handbook of Surfactants" by MR PORTER, Blackie & Son editions (Glasgow and London), 1991, pp. 116- 178). They are chosen in particular from polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alcohols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alpha-diols, polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated alkyl (C1-20) phenols or polyethoxylated, polypropoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty acids, the fatty chain comprising, for example, for example, from 8 to 18 carbon atoms, the number of ethylene oxide or propylene oxide groups ranging in particular from 2 to 50 and the number of glycerol groups ranging in particular from 2 to 30. It is also possible to mention the condensates of ethylene oxide and of propylene oxide on fatty alcohols; the polyethoxylated fatty amides preferably having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, the polyglycerolated fatty amides comprising on average from 1 to 5 glycerol groups and in particular from 1.5 to 4, the esters of fatty acids and of ethoxylated sorbitan having from 2 to 30 ethylene oxide units, sucrose fatty acid esters, polyethylene glycol fatty acid esters, alkylpolyglycosides, polyethoxylated vegetable oils, N- (lower alkyl) derivatives, C6_24) glucamine, amine oxides such as (C1-C14 alkyl) amine oxides or N- (C10-14) acyl aminopropylmorpholine oxides. The amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants that can be used in the compositions of the present invention comprise, for example, secondary or tertiary aliphatic amine derivatives, in which the aliphatic group is a linear or branched chain containing from 8 to 22 carbon atoms and containing at least one anionic group such as, for example, a carboxylate, sulfonate, sulfate, phosphate or phosphonate group. There may also be mentioned alkyl (C8-20) betaines, sulfobetaines, (C8-20 alkyl) amido (C6-8 alkyl) betaines or (C8-20 alkyl) amido (C6-8 alkyl) sulfobetaines. Among the amine derivatives, mention may be made of the products sold under the name MIRANOL, as described in US Pat. Nos. 2,528,378 and 2,781,354 and classified in the CTFA dictionary, 3rd edition, 1982, under the names Amphocarboxy. glycinate and Amphocarboxypropionate of respective structures (1) and (2): Ra-CONHCH2CH2-N (Rb) (Rc) (CH2000) (1) in which: Ra represents an alkyl group derived from an Ra-COOH acid present in the hydrolyzed coconut oil, a heptyl, nonyl or undecyl group, Rb represents a beta-hydroxyethyl group, and Re represents a carboxymethyl group; and Ra'-CONHCH2CH2-N (B) (B ') (2) wherein: B is -CH2CH2OX', B 'is - (CH2) z-Y', where z = 1 or 2, X 'is the group -CH2CH2-COOH or a hydrogen atom, Y 'represents -COOH or the group -CH2-CHOH-SO3H, Ra' represents an alkyl group of an acid Ra'-COOH present in coconut oil or in the hydrolysed linseed oil, an alkyl group, especially C 17 and its iso form, an unsaturated C 17 group. These compounds are classified in the CTFA dictionary, 5th edition, 1993, under the names cocoamphodiacétate disodium, lauroamphodiacétate disodium, caprylamphodiacétate disodium, capryloamphodiacétate disodium, cocoamphodipropionate disodium, lauroamphodipropionate disodium, caprylamphodipropionate disodium, capryloamphodipropionate disodium, acid lauroamphodipropionic, cocoamphodipropionic acid.

  By way of example, mention may be made of cocoamphodiacetate sold by RHODIA under the trade name MIRANOL C2M Concentrate. The compositions according to the invention may also comprise at least one silicone or a silicone derivative, in soluble, dispersed or micro-dispersed form. The silicones or silicone derivatives are preferably present in an amount of less than 10% by weight, preferably ranging from 0.01 to 8%, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  By way of example, mention may be made especially of silicone oils, such as, for example, linear or cyclic polydimethylsiloxanes. The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one fixing polymer of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric nature, to enhance the holding effect. The anionic fixing polymers that may be used in the compositions according to the invention are polymers containing groups derived from carboxylic, sulfonic or phosphoric acid and have a number-average molecular mass of between about 500 and 5,000,000.

  The carboxylic groups are provided by unsaturated mono- or di-carboxylic acid monomers such as those corresponding to the formula: ## STR2 ## in which n is an integer from 0 to 10, Al denotes a grouping methylene, optionally connected to the carbon atom of the unsaturated group or to the neighboring methylene group when n is greater than 1, via a heteroatom such as oxygen or sulfur, R7 denotes a hydrogen atom, a group phenyl or benzyl, R8 is hydrogen, lower alkyl or carboxyl, R9 is hydrogen, lower alkyl, -CH2-COOH, phenyl or benzyl.

  In the abovementioned formula, a lower alkyl group preferably denotes a group having 1 to 4 carbon atoms and in particular the methyl and ethyl groups.

  The anionic fixing polymers with preferred carboxylic groups according to the invention are:

  A) Homo- or copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid or their salts and in particular the products sold under the names Versicol E or K by the company Allied Colloid and ULTRAHOLD by the company BASF, the copolymers of acrylic acid and of acrylamide, the sodium salts of polyhydroxycarboxylic acids.

  B) Copolymers of acrylic or methacrylic acid with a monoethylenic monomer such as ethylene, styrene, vinyl esters (I), esters of acrylic or methacrylic acid, optionally grafted onto a polyalkylene glycol such as polyethylene -glycol, and optionally crosslinked. Such polymers are described in particular in French Patent No. 1,222,944 and German Application No. 2,330,956, copolymers of this type comprising in their chain an acrylamide unit optionally N-alkylated and / or hydroxyalkylated as described in particular in the US Pat. Luxembourg Patent Applications Nos. 75370 and 75371. Mention may also be made of copolymers of acrylic acid and of C 1 -C 4 alkyl methacrylate and terpolymers of vinylpyrrolidone, acrylic acid and C 1 -C 20 alkyl methacrylate. for example, lauryl, such as that marketed by the company ISP under the name ACRYLIDONE LM and terpolymers methacrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / tert-butyl acrylate such as the product sold under the name LUVIMER 100 P by the company BASF. C) Copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as those comprising in their chain vinyl acetate or propionate units, and optionally other monomers such as allyl or methallyl esters, vinyl ethers or vinyl esters of a saturated carboxylic acid , linear or branched, long hydrocarbon chain, such as those comprising at least 5 carbon atoms, these polymers may optionally be grafted and crosslinked, or another vinyl ester monomer, allyl or methallylique a carboxylic acid a- or (3 Such polymers are described, inter alia, in French patents Nos. 1 222 944, 1 580 545, 2 265 782, 2 265 781, 1 564 110 and 2 439 798. A commercial product in this class is the resin. 28-29-30 marketed by the company National Starch.

  D) copolymers derived from monounsaturated C4-C8 carboxylic acids or anhydrides chosen from: copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides and (ii) at least one monomer selected from the group consisting of vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. Such polymers are described in particular in US Pat. Nos. 2,047,398, 2,723,248, 2,102,113 and GB No. 839,805. Commercial products are especially those sold under the names Gantrez AN or ES by the company ISP. . copolymers comprising (i) one or more maleic, citraconic and itaconic anhydride units and (ii) one or more monomers chosen from allyl or methallyl esters optionally containing one or more acrylamide, methacrylamide, α-olefin or acrylic or methacrylic ester groups; acrylic or methacrylic acids or vinylpyrrolidone in their chain, the anhydride functions of these copolymers being optionally monoesterified or monoamidified. These polymers are for example described in French patents Nos. 2,350,384 and 2,357,241 of the applicant. E) Polyacrylamides having carboxylate groups.

  The polymers comprising the sulphonic groups are polymers comprising vinylsulphonic, styrenesulphonic, naphthalenesulphonic or acrylamidoalkylsulphonic units. These polymers may be chosen in particular from: - the salts of polyvinylsulphonic acid having a molecular mass of between about 1,000 and 100,000, as well as copolymers with an unsaturated comonomer such as acrylic or methacrylic acids and their esters, as well as acrylamide or its derivatives, vinyl ethers and vinylpyrrolidone. the salts of polystyrene-sulphonic acid, such as the sodium salts sold, for example, under the name Flexan 130 by National Starch. These compounds are described in patent FR 2 198 719. - polyacrylamidesulfonic acid salts such as those mentioned in US Pat. No. 4,128,631, and more particularly polyacrylamidoethylpropanesulphonic acid. According to the invention, among the anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, preference will be given to acrylic acid copolymers such as acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butylacrylamide terpolymers sold in particular under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF. copolymers derived from crotonic acid, such as vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid terpolymers and crotonic acid / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate terpolymers sold in particular under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company NATIONAL STARCH, polymers derived from maleic, fumaric, itaconic acids or anhydrides with vinyl esters, vinyl ethers, vinyl halides, phenylvinyl derivatives, acrylic acid and its esters such as methylvinylether / maleic anhydride copolymers monoesterified sold, for example, under the name GANTREZ by the company ISP, copo methacrylic acid and methyl methacrylate polymers sold under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF and the copolymers vinyl acetate / crotonic acid and vinyl acetate / crotonic acid copolymers grafted with polyethylene glycol sold under the name ARISTOFLEX A by BASF. The anionic fixing polymers mentioned above, the most particularly preferred, are chosen from the monoesterified methyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers sold under the name Gantrez ES 425 by the company ISP, the acrylic acid / ethyl acrylate / N-tert-butyl acrylamide terpolymers sold under the name ULTRAHOLD STRONG by the company BASF, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and of methyl methacrylate sold under the name EUDRAGIT L by the company ROHM PHARMA, the terpolymers vinyl acetate / vinyl tert-butylbenzoate / crotonic acid and the acid terpolymers crotonic / vinyl acetate / vinyl neododecanoate sold under the name Resin 28-29-30 by the company National Starch, the copolymers of methacrylic acid and ethyl acrylate sold under the name Luvimer MAEX or MAE by the company BASF , terpolymers vinylpyrrolidone / acrylic acid / laury methacrylate sold under the name ACRYLIDONE LM by the company ISP. The amphoteric fixing polymers that may be used in accordance with the invention may be chosen from polymers comprising units B and C statistically distributed in the polymer chain, where B denotes a unit derived from a monomer comprising at least one basic nitrogen atom and C denotes a unit derived from an acidic monomer having one or more carboxylic or sulfonic groups, or B and C may denote groups derived from zwitterionic monomers of carboxybetaines or sulfobetaines; B and C may also designate a cationic polymer chain comprising primary, secondary, tertiary or quaternary amine groups, in which at least one of the amine groups carries a carboxylic or sulphonic group connected via a hydrocarbon group, or Well B and C are part of a chain of an ethylene-α, β-dicarboxylic-type polymer having one of the carboxylic groups reacted with a polyamine having one or more primary or secondary amine groups.

  The amphoteric fixing polymers corresponding to the definition given above, which are more particularly preferred, are chosen from the following polymers: (1) polymers resulting from the copolymerization of a monomer derived from a vinyl compound carrying a carboxylic group, such as, more particularly, acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, maleic acid, alpha-chloro acrylic acid, and a basic monomer derived from a substituted vinyl compound containing at least one basic atom, such as more particularly the dialkylaminoalkyl methacrylate and acrylate, dialkylaminoalkyl-methacrylamide and acrylamide. Such compounds are described in US Pat. No. 3,836,537. (2) polymers comprising units derived from: a) at least one monomer chosen from acrylamides or methacrylamides substituted on the nitrogen atom by a group alkyl, b) at least one acidic comonomer containing one or more reactive carboxylic groups, and c) at least one basic comonomer such as primary, secondary, tertiary and quaternary amine substituted esters of acrylic and methacrylic acids, and the quaternization product of dimethylaminoethyl methacrylate with dimethyl or diethyl sulfate. The N-substituted acrylamides or methacrylamides which are more particularly preferred according to the invention are the compounds whose alkyl groups contain from 2 to 12 carbon atoms, and more particularly N-ethylacrylamide, N-tert-butylacrylamide, N-tert-octylacrylamide, N octylacrylamide, N-decylacrylamide, N-dodecylacrylamide and the corresponding methacrylamides.

  The acidic comonomers are chosen more particularly from acrylic, methacrylic, crotonic, itaconic, maleic and fumaric acids as well as alkyl monoesters having 1 to 4 carbon atoms of maleic or fumaric acids or anhydrides.

  Preferred basic comonomers are aminoethyl, butylaminoethyl, N, N'-dimethylaminoethyl, N-tert-butylaminoethyl methacrylates. The copolymers whose CTFA (4th Ed., 1991) name is octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethyl-methacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold under the name AMPHOMER or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch, are particularly used. (3) polyamino amides crosslinked and acylated partially or totally derived from poyaminoamides of general formula: ## STR1 ## wherein Rlo represents a divalent group derived from a saturated dicarboxylic acid, an aliphatic mono or dicarboxylic acid with an ethylenic double bond, an ester of a lower alkanol having 1 to 6 carbon atoms of these acids or a group derived from the addition of any of said acids with a bis-primary or bis-secondary amine, and Z designates a group derived from a bis-primary, mono- or bis-secondary polyalkylene polyamine and preferably represents: a) in the proportions of 60 to 100 mol%, the NH [(CH 2), - NH IP group;

  where x = 2 and p = 2 or 3, or x = 3 and p = 2 this group derived from diethylene triamine, triethylene tetraamine or dipropylene triamine; b) in the proportions of 0 to 40 mol%, the group (IIIa) above, in which x = 2 and p = 1 and which is derived from ethylenediamine, or the group derived from piperazine: NN c) in the proportions of 0 to 20 mol%, the group -NH- (CH2) 6-NH- derived from hexamethylenediamine,

  these polyaminoamides being crosslinked by addition reaction of a bifunctional crosslinking agent chosen from epihalohydrins, diepoxides, dianhydrides and bis-unsaturated derivatives, by means of from 0.025 to 0.35 moles of crosslinking agent per amine group; polyaminoamide, and acylated by the action of acrylic acid, chloroacetic acid or an alkane-sultone or their salts. The saturated carboxylic acids are preferably chosen from acids having 6 to 10 carbon atoms, such as adipic, trimethyl-2,2,4-adipic and trimethyl-2,4,4-adipic acids, terephthalic acids, and double acids. ethylenic bond such as, for example, acrylic, methacrylic, itaconic acids. The alkane sultones used in the acylation are preferably propane or butane sultone, the salts of the acylating agents are preferably the sodium or potassium salts. (4) polymers comprising zwitterionic units of formula: ## STR2 ## wherein R 11 denotes a polymerizable unsaturated group such as an acrylate, methacrylate, acrylamide or methacrylamide group, y and z represent an integer of 1 to 3, R12 and R13 represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, ethyl or propyl group, R14 and R15 represent a hydrogen atom or an alkyl group such that the sum of carbon atoms in R14 and R15 do not exceed 10. Polymers comprising such units may also comprise units derived from non-zwitterionic monomers such as dimethyl- or diethylaminoethyl acrylate or methacrylate or alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, acrylamides or methacrylamides, or vinyl acetate. By way of example, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate / dimethylcarboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers. (5) polymers derived from chitosan having monomeric units corresponding to the following formulas: ## STR2 ## wherein the unit is (CH 2 OH) ## STR2 ## ) being present in proportions of between 0 and 30%, the unit (E) in proportions of between 5 and 50%

  and the unit (F) in proportions of between 30 and 90%, it being understood that in this unit (F), R16 represents a group of formula: ## STR2 ## C in which if q = 0, R17, R18 and R19, identical or different,

  each represent a hydrogen atom, a methyl, hydroxyl, acetoxy or amino residue, a monoalkylamine residue or a dialkylamine residue optionally interrupted by one or more nitrogen atoms and / or optionally substituted by one or more amine, hydroxyl or carboxyl groups; , alkylthio, sulfonic, a remainder

  alkylthio whose alkyl group carries an amino residue, at least one of the groups R17, R18 and Ri9 being in this case a hydrogen atom;

  or if q = 1, R 17, R 18 and R 19 each represent a hydrogen atom, as well as the salts formed by these compounds with bases or acids.

  (6) The polymers corresponding to the general formula (V) are, for example, described in French Patent 1,400,366: ## STR1 ## where (D) H NHCOCH 3 H i (CH 1 CH 2) CH CH COOH CO (V) in which R 20 is hydrogen, CH3O, CH3CH2O, phenyl, R21 is hydrogen or lower alkyl such as methyl, ethyl, R22 is hydrogen, or C1-C6 lower alkyl, that methyl, ethyl, R23 denotes a C1-C6 lower alkyl group such as methyl, ethyl or a group corresponding to the formula: -R24-N (R22) 2, R24 representing a -CH2-CH2- group; CH 2 -CH 2 -CH 2 -, -CH 2 -CH (CH 3) -, R 22 having the meanings mentioned above. (7) Polymers derived from the N-carboxyalkylation of chitosan such as N-carboxymethyl-chitosan or N-carboxybutylchitosan. (8) Amphoteric polymers of the -DXDX type chosen from: a) the polymers obtained by the action of chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate on compounds comprising at least one unit of formula -DXDXD- (VI) where D denotes a group / ùN N and X denotes the symbol E or E ', E or E', which may be identical or different, denote a bivalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the unsubstituted main chain or substituted by hydroxyl groups and may further comprise oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, 1 to 3 aromatic and / or heterocyclic rings; the oxygen, nitrogen and sulfur atoms being present in the form of ether, thioether, sulphoxide, sulphone, sulphonium, alkylamine, alkenylamine, hydroxyl groups, benzylamine, amine oxide, quaternary ammonium, amide, imide groups, alcohol, ester and / or urethane. b) polymers of formula: -D-X-D-X- (VI ') where D denotes a group / \ N N \ / and X denotes the symbol E or E' and at least once E '; E having the meaning indicated above and E 'is a divalent group which is a straight or branched chain alkylene group having up to 7 carbon atoms in the main chain, substituted or unsubstituted by one or more hydroxyl groups and comprising one or more nitrogen atoms, the nitrogen atom being substituted by an alkyl chain optionally interrupted by an oxygen atom and necessarily comprising one or more carboxyl functions or one or more hydroxyl functions and betaineized by reaction with the acid; chloroacetic acid or sodium chloroacetate. (9) (C1-C5) alkyl vinyl ether / maleic anhydride copolymers partially modified by semiamidation with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkylamine such as N, N-dimethylaminopropylamine or by semi-esterification with an N, N-dialkylaminoalkanol. These copolymers may also comprise other vinylic comonomers such as vinylcaprolactam. Among the amphoteric fixing polymers mentioned above that are most particularly preferred according to the invention, mention will be made of those of the family (3) such as the copolymers whose CTFA name is Octylacrylamide / acrylates / butylaminoethylmethacrylate copolymer, such as the products sold. under the names AMPHOMER, AMPHOMER LV 71 or LOVOCRYL 47 by the company National Starch and those of the family (4) such as methyl methacrylate / methyl dimethyl carboxymethylammonioethyl methacrylate copolymers. The nonionic fixing polymers that can be used according to the present invention are chosen, for example, from: polyalkyloxazolines; homopolymers of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of acrylic ester; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of ethylene; copolymers of vinyl acetate and of maleic ester, for example of dibutyl maleate; copolymers of acrylic esters such as, for example, copolymers of alkyl acrylates and of alkyl methacrylates such as the products offered by the company Rohm & Haas under the names PRIMAL AC-261 K and EUDRAGIT NE 30 D, by BASF under the name 8845, by HOECHST under the name APPRETAN N9212; copolymers of acrylonitrile and of a nonionic monomer chosen, for example, from butadiene and alkyl (meth) acrylates; mention may be made of the products sold under the name CJ 0601 B by the company Rohm &Haas; homopolymers of styrene; copolymers of styrene and of alkyl (meth) acrylate, such as the products MOWILITH LDM 6911, MOWILITH DM 611 and MOWILITH LDM 6070 offered by the company HOECHST, the RHODOPAS SD 215 and RHODOPAS DS 910 products offered by the company RHONE POULENC ; copolymers of styrene, of alkyl methacrylate and of alkyl acrylate; copolymers of styrene and butadiene; copolymers of styrene, butadiene and vinylpyridine; copolymers of alkyl acrylate and urethane; polyamides, homopolymers and copolymers of vinyllactam. The alkyl groups of the nonionic polymers mentioned above preferably have from 1 to 6 carbon atoms.

  According to the present invention, the nonionic setting polymers with vinyllactam motifs can be those described in US Pat. Nos. 3,770,683, 3,929,735, 4,521,504, 5,156,762 and 5,506,315. WO 94/121148, WO 96/06592 and WO 96/10593. They can be in powder form or in the form of solution or suspension. Homopolymers or copolymers containing vinyllactam units include units of formula (IX): ## STR2 ## wherein n is independently 3, 4 or 5.

  The number-average molecular weight of the polymers with vinyllactam units is generally greater than about 5,000, preferably between about 10,000 and 1,000,000, more preferably between about 10,000 and 100,000. Among these fixing polymers, mention may be made of polyvinylpyrrolidones such as those sold under the name Luviskol K30 by the company BASF; polyvinylcaprolactams such as those sold under the name Luviskol PLUS by the company BASF; poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate) copolymers such as those sold under the name PVPVA S630L by the company ISP, Luviskol VA 73, VA 64, VA 55, VA 37 and VA 28 by the company BASF; and poly (vinylpyrrolidone / vinyl acetate / vinyl propionate) terpolymers such as, for example, those sold under the name Luviskol VAP 343 by the company BASF.

  The composition according to the invention may then contain at least 0.05% by weight of fixing polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition. More preferably, the composition according to the invention contains from 0.05 to 30% by weight of fixing polymer, more preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, even more preferably from 0.5 to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may also contain at least one thickener other than 0-carboxymethyl starch, chosen from natural or synthetic, anionic, amphoteric, zwitterionic, nonionic or cationic, associative or non-associative polymeric thickeners, and non-associative thickeners. polymers such as for example an electrolyte or a sugar. The compositions according to the invention may, when they are intended to be packaged in an aerosol-type device, contain at least one propellant, such as a propellant gas. The propellant may then be chosen, for example, from dimethyl ether, C3-C5 alkanes, halogenated hydrocarbons, and mixtures thereof. The compositions according to the invention may further contain at least one additive chosen from pearlescent agents; opacifying agents; plasticizers; solar filters; the perfumes ; dyes; conservatives ; pH stabilizers; polyols (for example glycols); mineral charges; glitter, and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field. Those skilled in the art will take care to choose the possible additives and their amounts so that they do not adversely affect the properties of the compositions of the present invention. These additives are present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0 to 50% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of more or less thickened liquids, gels, creams, pastes or foams. Preferably, they are in the form of cream or foam.

  The composition according to the invention may advantageously be used as a hair care product. It can for example be used as a hair care cream, or as a styling product. According to a preferred embodiment, it is used as a non-rinsed styling product, for example for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle. The present invention also relates to a cosmetic hair treatment method, for example a hair care method, or a method of shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle, which consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a hair. composition as described above, then to perform a possible rinsing after a possible exposure time. Preferably, the composition according to the invention is not rinsed.

  The following examples are illustrative of the present invention.

  EXAMPLE In the following example, all amounts are given as percent by weight of active ingredient (MA) based on the total weight of the composition unless otherwise indicated. This example illustrates the formulation of a styling mousse according to the invention.

  Such a foam was prepared from the ingredients indicated in the table below: Ingredients Content Sodium salt of 1% partially crosslinked and 0-carboxymethylated potato starch (1) Cationic polymer: 1% modified hydroxyethylcellulose (2) Nonionic surfactant: polysorbate-20 (3) 0.5% Propellant gas (4) 10% Preservatives, neutralizers, perfumes qs Water qs 100% (1) marketed under the name PRIMOJEL by the company AVEBE. (2) sold under the name CELQUAT LOR by the company National Starch. (3) marketed under the name TWEEN 20 by the company UNIQEMA. (4) marketed under the name AERON 3.2 by the company SOLVADIS.

Results obtained:

  The performance of the styling mousse composition described above has been evaluated by professionals, on panels of models. This composition has an excellent cosmetic level. In particular, the hair is smooth, soft, shiny. In addition, this composition has been found to provide hair with a very good level of volume and styling.

Claims (30)

  1. Non-detergent cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one O-carboxymethyl starch and at least one cationic polymer.   2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the 0-carboxymethyl starch is in the form of an alkali metal salt.   3. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch comes from a plant source such as cereals, tubers, roots, vegetables, fruits.   4. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the starch comes from the potato.   5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch is partially crosslinked.   6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the starch is a sodium salt of 0-carboxymethylated and partially crosslinked potato starch.   7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least 0.01% by weight of O-carboxymethyl starch, relative to the total weight of the composition.   8. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it comprises from 0.01 to 20% by weight of 0-carboxymethyl starch, more preferably from 0.1 to 10% by weight, and even more preferably from 0, 5 to 5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   9. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) cationic polymer (s) is (are) chosen from those which contain units comprising primary, secondary amine groups, tertiary and / or quaternary may be part of the main polymer chain, or be carried by a side substituent directly connected thereto.   10. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the (s) cationic polymer (s) is (are) chosen from cellulose ether derivatives containing quaternary ammonium groups, cationic cellulose derivatives such as cellulose copolymers or cellulose derivatives grafted with a water-soluble quaternary ammonium monomer, and homopolymers of dimethyldiallyl ammonium chloride.   11. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it contains at least 0.001% by weight of cationic polymer, relative to the total weight of the composition.   12. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains from 0.001 to 10% by weight of cationic polymer, preferably from 0.05 to 5% by weight, and still more preferably from 0.1 to 5% by weight. weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight ratio between the 0-carboxymethyl starch and the cationic polymer is between 0.5 and 5.   14. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the cosmetically acceptable medium comprises water and / or a cosmetically acceptable solvent selected from C1-C4 lower alcohols; polyols; polyol ethers; C5-C10 alkanes; C3-4 ketones; C1-C4 alkyl acetates; dimethoxyethane, diethoxyethane; and their mixtures.   15. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one fatty substance, chosen from vegetable oils, animal oils, mineral oils, natural or synthetic oils, fatty alcohols and their mixtures.   16. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the fatty substances are present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 30% by weight, preferably from 1 to 20% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it also contains at least one surfactant, selected from cationic surfactants, anionic surfactants, nonionic surfactants, amphoteric or zwitterionic surfactants.   18. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the concentration of anionic surfactants is less than or equal to 3% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   19. Composition according to claims 17 or 18, characterized in that it contains at least 0.01% by weight of surfactant (s), relative to the total weight of the composition.   20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains from 0.01 to 10% by weight of surfactant (s), preferably from 0.05 to 2.5% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further comprises at least one silicone or a silicone derivative, in soluble, dispersed or micro-dispersed form.   22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one fixing polymer, of anionic, nonionic or amphoteric nature.   23. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it contains from 0.05 to 30% by weight of fixing polymer, preferably from 0.1 to 15% by weight, more preferably from 0.5 to 10%. by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.   24. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it further contains at least one additive chosen from pearlescent agents; opacifying agents; plasticizers; solar filters; the perfumes ; dyes, preservatives; dyes; pH stabilizers; polyols; mineral charges; glitter, and any other additive conventionally used in the cosmetic field.   25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of more or less thickened liquid, gel, cream, paste or foam.   26. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that it is in the form of cream or foam.   27. A method of cosmetic treatment of hair, characterized in that it consists in applying to the hair an effective amount of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims, then to perform a possible rinsing after a possible exposure time.   28. Method according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the composition is not rinsed.   29. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26 as a hair care product.   30. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 26, for shaping and / or maintaining the hairstyle.