FR2888502A1 - Cosmetic product useful for caring and/or making up keratin materials comprises two different compositions comprising compound approved for food use - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic product (A1) comprises at least two different compositions comprising compound (A2) (at least 50 wt.%) approved for food use. Independent claims are included for the following: (1) a cosmetic process involving application of a first composition comprising compound(s) (at least 50 wt.%) approved for food use on contact with a keratin material, and application of a second composition comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium on contact with all or part of the first applied composition; and (2) a make up kit comprising cosmetic product (A1).

Description

The present invention relates to a new cosmetic care product

  and / or make-up comprising at least two compositions that can be applied successively to the skin of both the face and the human body, on the lower and upper eyelids of human beings, on the lips and on the integuments as well as on the skin.

  nails, eyebrows, eyelashes or hair, as well as a process of bilayer makeup of the face and the human body.

  Each composition can be a free or compacted powder, a foundation, a blush, an anti-ring product, a blush, a lipstick, a lip balm, a lip gloss, a pencil. lips or eyes, a mascara, an eyeliner, a nail polish or a product of body make-up or skin coloring.

  In general, these cosmetic compositions contain a significant amount of synthetic products including formulation additives intended to confer specific properties such as a satisfactory stability over time and / or with respect to significant variations in temperature. , a satisfactory performance especially in terms of makeup qualities and good application ability.

  However, in the world of cosmetics where products are renewed extremely quickly, there is a continuing need for new ways of formulation to achieve a level of performance at least equal to that offered by current products or better in some ways, at least.

  Moreover, the choice of raw materials, used for the implementation of these new ways of formulation, must, as it has always been, be guided by a concern, constantly exacerbated, to offer a level of guarantee consumers for whom the cosmetic formulations which incorporate them are intended, as well as for the preservation of the integrity of the environment.

  Accordingly, the subject of the present invention is, according to a first of its aspects, a process for the cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratinous material (s) comprising at least: the application in contact with a keratin material of a first composition comprising at least 50% by weight of compound (s) approved for foodstuffs, and the application in contact with all or part of the first composition applied, of a second composition comprising at least a physiologically acceptable medium.

  According to an alternative embodiment, the method implements at least a second composition distinct from the first composition and which also reproduces the characteristics of a first composition according to the invention.

  Unexpectedly, the presence of the compounds considered according to the invention does not prove to be detrimental to the ancillary qualities expected for a cosmetic composition, for example in terms of resistance, gloss in the case of lipsticks, or coverage in the more specific case of foundations.

  Preferably, the makeup obtained is a bilayer makeup.

  This bilayer makeup can be adapted to all skin makeup products as well as the face and the scalp and the body of human beings, mucous membranes such as the lips, the interior of the lower eyelids, and integuments such as nails , eyelashes, hair, eyebrows, even hair. The second layer can form patterns and can be applied with a pen, pencil or any other instrument (sponge, finger, brush, brush, feather etc.). This makeup can also be applied to make-up accessories such as false nails, false eyelashes, wigs or patches or adherent patches on the skin or lips (fly type).

  The present invention further relates to a cosmetic product for the care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least: a first composition comprising at least 50% by weight of compound (s) of which at least one dyestuff comprising at least two materials, said coloring material being referenced in the Codex Alimentarius or consisting exclusively of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, and - a second composition comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium.

  The first composition of the product according to the invention can constitute a base layer applied to the keratin material and the second composition a top layer or "top coat" or vice versa. However, it is possible to apply on the second layer an overlayer having the constitution or not of the second layer.

  According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a product for the cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising at least two different compositions and which respectively comprise at least 50% by weight relative to their total weight of compound (s) approved in the food sector.

  The object of the present invention is in particular a cosmetic makeup product in the form of a foundation, a blush or eyelid, a lipstick, a product having in particular care properties, an eyeliner, a concealer, or a body make-up product (tattoo type).

  The product according to the invention may comprise two (or more) physiologically acceptable compositions packaged separately or together in one and the same packaging article or in two (or more) separate or separate packaging articles.

  According to another of its aspects, the present invention relates to a makeup kit comprising a product according to the invention.

  According to an advantageous embodiment, this kit also contains means for applying the first and / or second composition (s) to the skin, the lips and / or the integuments. More particularly, these means of application are chosen from brushes, brushes, pens, pencils, felts, feathers, sponges, and foams.

  Preferably, these compositions are packaged separately and advantageously in separate or separate compartments or containers.

  The compositions constituting the make-up and / or care products in accordance with the invention comprise a physiologically acceptable medium, in particular a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium that is non-toxic and compatible in particular with an application on keratin materials such as than the skin, the lips and the dander of human beings.

  By "keratinous materials" is intended to cover the skin, the mucous membranes, such as the lips, the nails and the keratin fibers, like the eyelashes and the hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are particularly advantageous for use on the skin and the lips.

  For the sake of simplicity, when the term "the compositions according to the invention" is used, it denotes indifferently the first composition or the second composition.

  APPROVED COMPOUNDS IN FOODSTUFFS

  As stated above, the product according to the invention comprises at least one, or even two or more compositions (s) comprising at least 50% by weight, relative to their total weight of approved compounds in food material.

  More generally, "approved compounds of food material" according to the invention means compounds selected from compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, materials consisting exclusively of compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, such as nacres for example , ozokerite and rice wax.

  The Codex Alimentarius, or food code, is the authoritative global reference for consumers, food producers and processors, national food control agencies and the international food trade.

  It brings together food standards, guidelines and other established codes of practice for food products by the Codex Alimentarius Commission, established in 1963 by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and the World Food Organization. (WHO), within the framework of the Joint FAO / WHO Food Standards Program and under the auspices of the United Nations.

  Within the meaning of the invention, a compound referenced in the Codex Alimentarius means a compound whose use in food ingredients is considered in the Codex, and is regulated or not in specific ways.

  It is understood that when conditions are specified in the Codex Alimentarius for certain ingredients, they are not critical for the implementation of these same compounds in the compositions according to the invention.

  Generally, "food" ingredient means any substance other than water, used in the manufacture or preparation of a food and present in the finished product although sometimes in a modified form. Thus, the term "food ingredient" includes additives and food extracts.

  In addition, "food additive" means any substance that is not normally consumed as a food in itself and is not normally used as a characteristic ingredient of a food, whether or not it has nutritional value. , and whose intentional addition to the food for technological or organoleptic purposes, at any stage of manufacture, processing, preparation, processing, packaging, packaging, transport or storage of that good, causes or may lead (directly or indirectly) to its incorporation or that of its derivatives into the foodstuff or may affect the characteristics of that food in any other way.

  Within the meaning of the invention, a product consisting exclusively of compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, refers to a material whose composition consists exclusively of compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and which therefore comprises at least two or more compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius. This definition covers, in particular, materials with multilayer structure (s), such as, for example, nacres. Thus, the nacres generally consist of an inorganic substrate such as mica or TiO 2 covered for example with a layer of iron oxide.

  The Codex Alimentarius considered according to the invention is that available on the filing date of the present application.

  For example, for additives, this is Codex Food Additive and Contaminants CX / FAC 05/37/6.

  With regard to the extracts, these are defined in particular in Codex Alimentarius Volume 8 and more particularly in the standard Codex 19, 33 and 210.

  For vegetable oils, this is the standard Codex 210 version as amended in 2003.

  With regard to edible fats and oils, this is the standard Codex version 19-1981, as revised in February 1993. For example, for olive oil, reference may be made to Standard Codex version 33, revised 1989.

  More preferentially, these compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least 55% by weight, especially at least 60% by weight, or even at least 65% by weight and more particularly at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight. or at least 80% by weight, in particular at least 85% by weight, in particular at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, and more particularly consist of approximately 100% by weight relative to their weight. total weight of compound (s) approved for food.

  For the sake of simplification, the compositions according to the invention containing at least 50% by weight of approved compounds of food material are hereinafter referred to as first compositions.

FIRST COMPOSITIONS

  The first compositions may comprise a fatty phase comprising in particular at least one compound chosen from oils and solid fats which are solid at ambient temperature (20 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, for example, waxes and pasty fatty substances and their mixtures.

  Oils and solid fats and mixtures thereof in a form suitable for human consumption, whether or not they have been subjected to transformation operations, such as transesterification or hydrogenation or fractionation, are thus particularly suitable for the invention. .

  Oils and solid fats include foodstuffs conforming to the definition in Section 1 of the Codex Alimentarius and consisting of fatty acid glycerides.

  They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral, synthetic or marine origin.

  They may contain small amounts of other lipids such as phosphatides, unsaponifiable constituents and free fatty acids naturally present in these solid fats and oils.

  a) Oil The term oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 C) and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty phase may also contain, in addition to oils, other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling and / or structuring agents.

  The compositions according to the present invention may comprise at least one, and in particular at least two oils.

  The oils that are suitable for the preparation of the compositions in accordance with the invention may be volatile or nonvolatile oils.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) ).

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

  The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon oils, in particular of animal, mineral or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

  The oils more particularly considered in the first compositions according to the invention are hydrocarbon oils and more preferably edible oils including referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and more precisely in the standards 19 to 27, 33, 34, 123 to 128 and 210 of that -this.

  As examples of oils that are suitable for the preparation of the first compositions of the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from oils comprising at least one fatty acid chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid and acid. lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, acid behenic acid, erucic acid, brassic acid, cetoleic acid, lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, and a mixture of these.

  They are more particularly vegetable hydrocarbon oils and in particular those chosen from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These oils include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, peanut oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, cotton oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, mustard seed oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil , sesame, soya, sunflower, wheat germ, canola, apricot, mango, castor, shea, avocado, olive, sweet almond, peach almond, walnut, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, rose hip, shea butter or triglycerides caprylic / capric acids, and mixtures thereof.

  According to a particular embodiment, the first compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one oil chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon-based oils and more particularly chosen from the following approved food-grade oils: marketed caprylic / capric acid triglycerides by STEPAN; rapeseed hybrid oil, cotton seed liquid oil, refined protected deodorized mango oil, protected shea butter liquid fraction, and refined canola seed oil marketed by KARLSHAMNS; isopropyl myristate marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS; Sheasoft Lipex and KARSLSHAMNS marketed seed oil; deodorized apricot kernel oil marketed by NESTLE; sweet almond oil marketed by SOETENAEY; peach almond oil marketed by AARHUS UNITED; rapeseed oil, corn germ oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil and sunflower oil marketed by HUILERIES DE LAPALISSE and nut marketed by SOETENAEY.

  According to one particular embodiment, the first compositions in accordance with the present invention comprise at least one oil chosen from triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, apricot oil, peach oil and walnut oil. , olive oil.

  According to a particular embodiment, the first compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.1 to 99% by weight, in particular from 1 to 90% by weight, in particular from 5 to 70% by weight, in particular from 10 to 65% by weight. % by weight, and more particularly from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the approved oil composition (s) for food and more particularly referenced in the Codex Alimentarius.

  In addition to the above-mentioned oils, the first compositions according to the present invention may of course comprise at least one other liquid fat provided that it is present in amounts in accordance with the requirements of the invention.

  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, and synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1000R2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R1 + R2 is 10 .

  The esters may especially be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or palmitate 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate , diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol hexanoate diethyl 2 and mixtures thereof, C12-C15 alcohol benzoates, laurate hexyl, esters of neopenta acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; polyol esters and pentaerythritol esters, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; diacid diol and dimer dimeric esters such as Lusplan DDDA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7, sold by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US Pat. application FR0302809 filed March 6, 2003.

  branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-oxyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol, and - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC, by COGNIS.

  The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6). -pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS or PERMETHYLS.

  The compositions according to the invention may further contain volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and their mixtures.

  As volatile silicone oils, it is more particularly possible to use volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and hexamethyl. disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used.

  The first compositions according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one compound chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

  b) Waxes The wax is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C up to 200 ° C., a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa and present in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

  It can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

  Advantageously, the first compositions according to the present invention comprise at least one wax chosen from waxes approved for foodstuffs.

  For the purposes of the present invention, an approved wax for foodstuffs covers the waxes referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, especially the waxes referenced in table 1 of the Codex Alimentarius, ozokerite and rice wax.

  Thus, the first compositions according to the present invention advantageously comprise a wax chosen from beeswax, ozokerite, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.

  Advantageously, the wax used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is chosen from microcrystalline wax marketed by PARAMELT and more particularly ozokerite, beeswax, Candelilla, Carnauba sold by STRAHL & PITSCH, and their mixtures.

  According to a particular embodiment, the approved wax or waxes of food material is or are present in the first cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention in a content ranging from 1 to 50%, in particular from 3 to 40%, in particular from 5 to 30%, and especially 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions.

  In addition to these approved waxes for foodstuffs, the first compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more waxes chosen, for example, from synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes (preferably of molecular weight between 400 and 600) or from Fischer-Tropsch, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, paraffin waxes, ceresines, for example isoparaffins having a melting point of less than 40 ° C., such as EMW-0003, marketed by the company NIPPON SEIROU, oligomers of α-olefin, such as polymers PERFORMA V 825, 103 and 260, marketed by NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES; ethylene-propylene copolymers, such as PERFORMALENE EP 700, and mixtures thereof.

  c) Pasty Compounds The first cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a reversible solid / liquid state fatty compound having a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25 ° C. Paste is also understood to mean vinyl polylaurate.

  Particularly suitable as pasty compounds according to the invention are polyol esters.

  The polyol esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared in a conventional manner. They are generally of plant origin and may in particular be obtained by mono- or poly-esterification of a polyol with a C 2 -C 34 monocarboxylic acid, for example a fatty acid or with a dicarboxylic acid such as a diacid dimer. .

  The ester obtained can be, in particular, a polyester, a triester, a diester, a monoester or a mixture thereof. In this case, the ester can be a mixture of two or more types of ester formed with different carboxylic acids.

  In the case of esterification with a monocarboxylic acid, esters having a relatively high molecular weight ranging from about 200 to 1300 g / mol can be obtained.

  In the esterification reaction with a dicarboxylic acid, there can be obtained a polyol dicarboxylate having a weight average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ranging from 200 to 20,000 g / cm 2. mol, preferably between 2000 and 4000 g / mol.

  By "polyol" or "polyhydric alcohol" is meant for the purposes of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

  The polyhydric alcohols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and more particularly 4 to 6 carbon atoms.

  Advantageously, the polyol may for example be chosen from a diol dimer, glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycol ethers (having in particular 3 to 16 carbon atoms) such as the alkyl (C1-C4) ether of mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol, the alkyl (C1 -C4) ethers of mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol; and their mixtures.

  It can also be "diol dimer", that is to say saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers.

  A diol dimer may be produced by hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular of C8 to C34, such as those mentioned above, in particular in C12 to C22 and in particular in C16 to C20. preferably C18, for example oleic acid and linoleic acid.

  The polyols that are more particularly suitable are sugars chosen from monosaccharides, disaccharides and trisaccharides. As representative of these sugars, there may be mentioned monosaccharides such as xylose, arabinose, galactose, fructose, mannose, glucose and mixtures thereof. As a representative of the disaccharide polyols, there may be mentioned more particularly maltose, lactose, sucrose and combinations thereof.

  The monocarboxylic acid which can be used in the present invention may comprise from 2 to 34 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms.

  By way of illustration, examples of monocarboxylic acid that are suitable for the invention include: saturated linear acids such as butanoic acid, pentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, branched fatty acids such as, for example, isobutanoic acid, isopentanoic acid, pivalic acid, isohexanoic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, dimethyloctanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isoundecanoic acid, isododecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isotetradecanoic acid, acid is opto-decanoic acid, isohexadecanoic acid, isoheptadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, isononadecanoic acid, isoeicosanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2-butyloctanoic acid, 2-hexyldecanoic acid, 2octyldodecanoic acid, 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, 2dodecylhexadecanoic acid, 2-tetradecyloctadecanoic acid, 2-hexadecyloctadecanoic acid, long chain fatty acids obtained from lanolin, unsaturated linear C 8 -C 34 fatty acids such as undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassic acid, arachidonic acid, hydroxy acids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydropentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptanic acid oic acid, 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 12-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyeicosanoic acid, 2-hydroxydocosanoic acid, 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, cyclic acids such as cyclohexanoic acid, hydrogenated rosin, rosin, abietic acid, hydrogenated abietic acid, benzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, p-aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, pmethoxycinnamic acid , salicylic acid, gallic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, and - naturally occurring fatty acids, such as the fatty acids of orange oil, avocado oil, macadamia oil, oil olive, hydrogenated soybean oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, castor oil, wheat germ oil, saffron oil, cottonseed oil , mink oil and mixtures thereof.

  It is more particularly a fatty acid, especially as defined above.

  The dicarboxylic acid that can be used according to the invention may contain at least two carboxylic groups per molecule.

  It may in particular be represented by the following formula: HOOC (CH 2) n COOH in which n is an integer of 1 to 16, preferably 3 to 16.

  By way of non-limiting illustration of the dicarboxylic acids that are suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,9nonamethylene-dicarboxylic acid, 1,10-decamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,11-undecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,12-dodecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, acid 1, 13-tridecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,14tetradecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,15pentadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,16hexadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and mixtures thereof.

  The dicarboxylic acid may also be a diacid dimer. A diacid dimer denotes a diacid obtained by polymerization reaction, especially intermolecular, dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid including C8 to C34, such as those mentioned above, especially C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, preferably C18 in the image for example of oleic acid and linoleic acid.

  Also particularly suitable as polyol esters are the polyol polyesters in which the fatty acid ester units of the polyester comprise saturated or unsaturated chain lengths chosen so that the compound has the required behavior in terms of pasty compounds according to the invention.

  The unsaturated fatty acid chains are typically branched chains and more particularly contain from 12 to about 22, and more preferably from about 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

  The unsaturated fatty acid chains more particularly considered are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C18 fatty acids.

  These long chains can be associated with shorter chains of saturated fatty acids. They are generally linear and contain from 2 to about 12, preferably from 6 to about 12, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

  In general, the esterification rate of these fatty acid esters is such that about 60% of the hydroxyl functions of the polyols are esterified, and more particularly about 85% or even 95% of the hydroxyl functions.

  As regards the unsaturated long-chain fatty acid ester units, mention may be made more particularly of laureate, myristoleate, palmitoleate, oleate, elaidate, eructate, linolenate, linolenate, arachidonate, eicosapentaenoate and docosahexanoate. For reasons of oxidation stability, mono- and di-unsaturated fatty acid chains are preferred.

  As regards the saturated long-chain unsaturated fatty acid ester units, mention may be made especially of arachidate, behenate, linosanate and serotate esters.

  As regards the short chain saturated fatty acid ester units, it is more particularly acetate, caproate, caprilate, caprate and laurate.

  As solid polyol fatty acid polyesters that are particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly the raffinose octa-esters in which the esterifying fatty acid parts are linoleate and behenate, the maltose hecta esters in wherein the esterifying fatty acid moieties are derived from the sunflower seed oil and lignoserate fatty acid, the sucrose octaesters wherein the esterifying fatty acid moieties are behenate and oleate and sucrose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid parts are laurates, linoleates and behenates.

  Such polyesters of solid fatty acids can be obtained according to methods already described for the preparation of polyol polyesters. As such, reference may in particular be made to US 5,306,516, US 5,306,515, US 5,305,514, US 4,797,300, US 3,963,699, US 4,518,772 and US 4,517,360.

  As a pasty compound that is advantageously suitable for formulating the first cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of fractionated hydrogen triglycerides and in particular those marketed by SIO; hydrogenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated palm oil cocoa butter and for example those marketed by KARLSHAMNS, solid cottonseed oil and for example that marketed by SIO, sucrose acetate isobutyrate and for example that marketed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.

  Among the other pasty compounds that can be used in a first composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of lanolines and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines, oxypropylenated lanolines or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

  Mention may also be made of silicone pasty compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55. C, such as stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514 and mixtures thereof.

  According to one variant of the invention, the solid substances, such as waxes or pasty compounds, may be chosen for their effectiveness in texturing a liquid fatty phase. In general, the compounds that are suitable for this purpose have a melting point greater than or equal to 50 ° C., in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C., or even ranging from 55 ° to 150 ° C. and even from 60 ° to 130 ° C.

  In addition to waxes and certain pasty compounds, fillers such as nylon can also be used.

BRILLIANCE TEST

  Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also have a gloss greater than or equal to 5, in particular greater than or equal to 10, in particular greater than or equal to 15, more particularly greater than or equal to 20, in particular greater than or equal to 25 , even in the order of 30.

  By "brightness" is meant the brightness as measured by the following method, using a gonioreflectometer-type apparatus such as GRM-2000 (MICROMODULE), using an azimuthal angle of illumination of 30 to the normal of the sample, a specular reflection (R) detection angle of 30 and a diffuse reflection detection angle (D) of 0.

  A rectangular-shaped foam-like support 40 x 70 mm in size is made from a brick-colored foam (L * = 37 3; a * = 15 2; b * = 11 2 in the CIE space L * a * b * 1976), NEOPRENE 3 mm thick and which has an adhesive side, including a foam known under the commercial reference RE40 x 70 C / C 212B skin 1, sold by the company Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind.

  On the face opposite to the adhesive face of this support, a transparent plaster sold by the company 3M under the commercial reference BLENDERM FH 5000-55113, having a quality of use such as the deposition of a composition on this coating is fixed on the face opposite to the adhesive face of this support. allows to simulate the application on the skin or the mucous membranes, the sensation with the application and the resulting color being similar even if the film is little covering.

  The foam support coated with the transparent plaster is then fixed, by gluing, with its adhesive side to a metal plate 40 × 70 mm in size.

  The assembly constituted by the support bonded to the metal plate forms a test piece.

  The operator produces a total of 5 test pieces identical to those described above.

  We will now describe an embodiment of the brightness evaluation method.

  The operator arranges the test piece on a heating plate set at a temperature of 38.5 ° C., for example an N81076 type heating plate sold by the company FISHER BIOBLOCK, and waits for the face of the support bearing the adhesive coating to reach a temperature of 33 C 1 C.

  Once the carrier is at the desired temperature, the operator manually applies a film about 15 m thick of the cosmetic product to the BLENDERM coating.

  The cosmetic product, which is for example a lipstick, has been stored at 24C 2 C.

  The gesture made by the operator to deposit the product film consists of a round trip, so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit. The application of the product on the support is preferably carried out so as to be as representative as possible of the actual conditions of application of the product. The same product to be tested is applied identically to the same five test pieces prepared previously.

  The film of the product is allowed to dry, the test piece being placed on the heating plate, so that the support remains at 33 ° C. for 10 minutes.

  The intensity of the specular reflection and that of the diffuse reflection of the film of the product are measured with the incidences specified previously for each of the five test pieces.

  From the measured values, the brightness Brillances is calculated for each specimen by the R / D ratio for this specimen. The weighting of the specular reflection measurement, generally used alone to characterize the brightness, by the diffuse reflection measurement (representative of the color / clarity of the sample) makes it possible to better account for the visual perception of the brightness.

  We can finally calculate the average value Brightness of the brightness: Brightness = 1 LBrillance. N and standard deviation: 6 Brightness = 1 z Brightness z. 2 (L Brilliance) N (N -1) and the 95% confidence interval: Brilliance 1.96 / Brz11ance N where N is the number of measurements, ie 5 in this case . Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may be capable of forming a deposit having an index of withstand greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, preferably greater than or equal to 45%, preferably greater than or equal to equal to 50%, especially greater than or equal to 55%, in particular greater than or equal to 60%, even greater than or equal to 65%, or greater than or equal to 70%.

  The resistance index of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention can be determined according to the measurement protocol described below.

  A support (rectangle 40 mm × 70 mm) made of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on a polyethylene film sold under the name BLENDERME ref FHSO00-55113 by the company 3M Santé) is prepared on a layer of adhesive polyethylene foam. on the opposite side to that on which is fixed the plaster (layer of foam sold under the name RE40X70EP3 of the company JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND).

  The color L * 0a * 0b * 0 of the support is measured using a MINOLTA CR 300 colorimeter, on the acrylic coating side.

  The support thus prepared is preheated on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40 ° C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33 ° C. The hot support is removed from the plate and the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (i.e., on the surface of the acrylic coating) by spreading it with a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 m. The whole is put back on the plate and allowed to dry for 10 minutes.

  After drying, the color L * a * b * of the film thus obtained is measured.

  The color difference ΔE1 is then determined between the color of the film with respect to the color of the bare support by the following relation: ΔE1 = (L * -Lo *) z + (a * - ao *) z + (b * - bo *) 2 The support is then glued by its adhesive side (adhesive side of the foam layer) on an anvil with a diameter of 20 mm and provided with a screw thread. A test piece of the support / deposit assembly is then cut using a punch with a diameter of 18 mm. The anvil is then screwed onto a press (MANUAL STATIF IMADA SV-2 from SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from SOMECO).

  On a 80 g / m2 white photocopy paper, draw a strip 33 mm wide and 29.7 cm long, draw a first line 2 cm from the edge of the sheet, then a second line at 5 cm the edge of the sheet, the first and second lines thus delimiting a box on the strip; then we have a first mark and a second mark located in the band at 8 cm and 16 cm markings respectively. 20 l of water are placed on the first mark and the second mark 10 g of refined sunflower oil (sold by the company LESIEUR).

  The white paper is placed on the base of the press and the specimen placed on the square of the paper strip is pressed at a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 exerted for 30 seconds. Before making a new pressure, the specimen is removed and a measurement corresponding to the transfer after pressing is carried out. The test piece is then again placed just after the second mark (hence beside the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 is again performed and the paper is moved rectilinearly from the contact made. a speed of 1 cm / s, over the entire length of the strip so that the specimen passes through the water and oil deposits.

  After removal of the specimen, a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper. The color L * ', a *', b * 'of the deposit remained on the specimen.

  The color difference AE2 is then determined between the color of the deposit remaining on the specimen relative to the color of the bare support by the following relation.

  AE2 = (L *, _ L0 *) 2 + (a * '- ao *) z + (b *, - bo *) 2 The strength of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio X AE2 / AE1 The measurement is carried out on 6 substrates afterwards and the holding index corresponds to the average of the 6 measurements obtained with the 6 supports.

COVERING POWER

  Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may have a covering capacity greater than or equal to 30, in particular greater than or equal to 50, in particular greater than or equal to 60, more particularly greater than or equal to 80, in particular ranging from 90 to 100, about 100.

  This hiding power can be measured by the following method.

  In the case of a stick, the composition is premixed so as to obtain a viscous paste.

  In the case of a powder, 50 parts by weight of the powder are kneaded with 50 parts by weight of dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid 5CST by Dow Corning) so as to obtain a viscous paste.

  The formulation is then spread with a thickness of 50 m on an Erichsen contrast card, type 24/5, with a black background and a white background, and the trichromatic coordinates (X, Y, Z) are measured using CH-2002 or CR-3700 colorimeter.

  Similar spreads are made on two other contrast cards and three measurements are made on each card. The average corresponding to these nine measurements is then calculated.

  The hiding power is equal to 100 x Yn / Yb where Yn is the average value of Y on a black background and Yb is the average value of Y on a white background. A hiding power of 100 corresponds to a completely opaque formulation.

SECOND COMPOSITION

  The cosmetic makeup product according to the invention contains a second composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the physiologically acceptable medium of the second composition comprises a non-volatile liquid phase at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure.

  By "non-volatile liquid phase" is meant any medium that may remain on the skin or the lips for several hours. A non-volatile liquid phase has in particular a vapor pressure at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, non-zero less than 0.02 mm Hg (2.66 Pa) and better still less than 10 -3 mm Hg (0.13 Pa). ).

  According to a preferred embodiment of the invention, the first composition and the second composition both have a continuous phase of the same nature.

  Even more preferably, they both have a continuous fat phase.

  The second composition may thus comprise one or more fatty substances which may be chosen from waxes, oils, gums and / or pasty, hydrocarbon-based, silicone and / or fluorinated fats of vegetable, animal, mineral or synthesis and their mixtures.

  Particularly suitable for the second composition are the oils, waxes and pastes previously described for the first composition.

AQUEOUS PHASE

  According to certain aspects of the present invention, the first and second compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition in question.

  The aqueous phase may consist exclusively of water.

  It may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, and aldehydes in C2-C4.

  According to one embodiment, the first and second cosmetic compositions that are suitable for the implementation of the present invention may be in the form of a single water-in-oil or oil-in-water, multiple (water-oil-water) emulsion. or oil-water-oil), or reverse, the implementation of which is well known to those skilled in the art.

  The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) may be present in the first composition at a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, especially from 1 to 25% by weight, and in particular 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to yet another aspect of the invention, the first and second compositions according to the invention may be anhydrous.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" is intended to denote a composition comprising less than 10% by weight of water per total weight of the composition, in particular less than 5% by weight, in particular less than 2% by weight. weight, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Advantageously, an anhydrous composition according to the invention is devoid of water.

COLORING MATERIALS

  The first and second cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention may, advantageously, incorporate one or more dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

  The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored particles, mineral or organic, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the corresponding cosmetic composition.

  As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc oxides, or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

  By "nacres" it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or otherwise, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

  These dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even from 1 to 10% by weight. relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition in question.

  Advantageously, the first compositions according to the invention comprise dyestuffs approved for foodstuffs, in particular referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and more specifically the substances referenced in Table 1 thereof.

  In particular, the dyestuffs may be dyestuffs with at least two materials, said dyestuff being referenced in the Codex Alimentarius or consisting exclusively of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius.

  More precisely, it is at least one dyestuff chosen from nacres consisting of materials referenced in the Codex alimentarius, lacquers approved for food, and also referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and dyestuffs approved by the Codex Alimentarius. , and their mixtures.

  As representative of these dyestuffs, mention may be made more particularly of mineral pigments such as titanium and iron oxides, and water-soluble or liposoluble coloring agents such as, for example, Sudan red, [3-carotene, juice of beetroot, disodium salt of culvert, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, DC Red N 7, DC Green N 6, DC Yellow N 11, DC Violet N 2, DC Orange No. 5, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll, canthaxanthin, carmine, erythrosine, indigotine and riboflavin.

  In the case of the present invention, the choice of nacres made of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius is preferred.

  By way of illustration of such nacres, mention may be made more particularly of nacres based on mica coated with titanium and / or iron oxide, nacres based on mica coated with titanium and / or with iron oxide and coated with surface of at least one organic dye, such as, for example, carbon black, and mica-based nacres coated with aluminum, silver and / or gold and, where appropriate, surface-coated with at least an organic dye.

  Advantageously, the base material as well as the above-mentioned surface coatings are approved food materials. For example, TiO 2 is registered under the reference E171, iron oxide under the reference E172, carbon black under the reference E153, aluminum under the reference E174, and gold under the reference E175.

  Such composite materials are sold especially by Merck under the name CANDURIN.

  As regards the lacquers, mention may be made more particularly of carbon black, organic lacquer-type pigments of barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, titanium, including those subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) ( FD & C example), cochineal carmine lacquers, or diketopyrrolopyrrole (DPP) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A96 / 08537.

  As "lacquer" type pigments that are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of those marketed by LCW SENSIENT under the names FD & C Yellow No. 5 / E102, FD & C Yellow No. 6 / E110, FD & C Blue No. / E132, FD & C Red. 40 / E129, FD & C Blue No. 2 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Lake Aluminum, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Lake Aluminum, FD & C Blue Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake and FD & C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake.

  Of particular interest are FD & C Blue Aluminum Lake, FD & C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake and FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake.

  With regard to lacquers and nacres, these dyestuffs are particularly advantageous for providing a different effect from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say unified and stabilized effect as produced by conventional dyestuffs as by for example, monochromatic pigments.

  For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation. The effect obtained with the nacres and / or lacquers may be an effect selected from the metallic effects including mirror, soft-focus, and / or rainbow.

  In addition to the above-mentioned coloring agents, such as those specifically approved for foodstuffs, the compositions may of course comprise other organic or inorganic coloring substances.

  It can thus be organic pigments. These include the following names: D & C Blue # 4, D & C Brown # 1, D & C Green # 5, D & C Green # 6, D & C Orange # 4, D & C Orange # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red # 34, D & C Red # 36, D & C Violet # 2, D & C Yellow # 7, D & C Yellow # 8, D & C Yellow # 10, D & C Yellow # 11.

  The organic dyestuff may comprise an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

  As organic lakes, mention may be made especially of those known under the following denominations: D & C Red n 2 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Barium lake , D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 27 Barium lake, D & C Red n 27 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 27 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 28 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 30 lake, D & C Red n 31 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 33 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 34 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 36 lake, D & C Red n 40 Aluminum lake, D & C Blue nl Aluminum lake, D & C Green n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Orange n 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 17 Barium lake, D & C Yellow n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Yellow n 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium Lake and D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake.

  The compositions according to the invention may also contain diffracting agents, goniochromatic agents and / or reflective particles.

CHARGE

  The cosmetic compositions according to the invention generally contain, in addition, fillers of mineral or organic origin.

  Of course, the compounds proposed above, in particular as coloring agents, are capable of jointly performing this function.

  Particularly suitable for the invention are inorganic non-pigmentary compounds approved by the Codex Alimentarius and more particularly referenced in Table 1 thereof.

  As such can be mentioned more particularly talc, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate.

Additives

  The compositions according to the invention may, in addition, comprise all the ingredients conventionally used as additives in the cosmetic and dermatological field.

  These additives are advantageously chosen from the food additives proposed in Table 1 of the Codex Alimentarius for example antioxidants, thickeners, sequestering agents, alkalizing agents or acidifying preservatives and mixtures thereof.

  The compositions according to the invention may further contain aromas and / or fragrances.

  The amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields concerned and for example vary from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the product according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

  The first and / or second composition (s) of the make-up product according to the invention may also contain one or more cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active ingredients.

  As cosmetic, dermatological, hygienic or pharmaceutical active agents that can be used in the compositions of the invention, mention may be made of moisturizers (polyol as glycerol), vitamins (C, A, E, F, B, or PP), essential fatty acids, essential oils, ceramides, sphingolipids, liposoluble sunscreens or in the form of nano-particles, the specific active agents for the treatment of the skin (protective agents, antibacterials, anti-wrinkles ...).

  These active agents are used in amounts customary to those skilled in the art and especially at concentrations of 0 to 20% and especially 0.001 to 15% of the total weight of the first and / or second composition.

  The compositions according to the invention can be prepared in the usual manner by those skilled in the art.

  They may be in the form of a cast product and for example in the form of a stick or stick, in the form of a flexible paste in a hot-water bottle, or in the form of a cup that can be used by direct contact or with a sponge. In particular, they constitute, together or separately, a cast foundation, blush or eyelid cast especially colored, lipstick, lip gloss, concealer product.

  They can also be each in the form of a soft paste or gel, more or less fluid cream. They can then constitute foundations or fluid or pasty lipsticks, lip glosses, sunscreens or skin coloring, eyeliners, body make-up products or present care properties and then present as a base or lip care balm.

  Each composition of the product according to the invention may also be in a more fluid dosage form normally used for topical application and especially in the form of an oily or aqueous solution, an oily or aqueous gel, an oil-in-water emulsion, in-water or water-in-oil, a multiple emulsion, an oil dispersion in water through vesicles, the vesicles being located at the oil / water interface, or a powder . Each composition can be fluid or solid.

  Advantageously, the first or the second composition, or both, are of continuous fat phase and preferably in anhydrous form and may contain less than 5% of water, and even more preferably less than 1% of water relative to the total weight. of the first or second composition.

  In particular, the entire bilayer makeup product is in anhydrous form.

  Each composition may be packaged separately in the same packaging article, for example in a bi-compartmented pen, the base composition being delivered by one end of the pen and the composition of the top being delivered by the other end of the pen, each end being closed in particular sealed manner by a cap.

  Preferably, the composition which is applied in the first layer is in solid form, which allows a more practical application, a better stability in time and temperature of the composition and allows a precise trace of the make-up, which is highly desirable in the case of a lipstick or an eyeliner.

  The product according to the invention can be advantageously used for the makeup of the skin and / or lips and / or integuments according to the nature of the ingredients used. In particular, the product of the invention may be in the form of a solid foundation, a lipstick stick or paste, a concealer, or an eye contour, an eyeliner or a mascara. eyeshadow, body make-up product or a product for coloring the skin.

  The product is in particular a lipstick.

  Preferably, the first and / or second composition (s) is (are) in solid form.

  Advantageously, the lower layer applied to the keratin material has care properties.

  The invention also relates to a lip product, a foundation, a tattoo, a blush or eyeshadow containing first and second compositions as described above.

  The compositions of the invention can be obtained by heating the various constituents to the melting temperature of the highest waxes, then pouring the molten mixture into a mold (cup or thimble). They can also be obtained by extrusion as described in application EP-A-0667 146.

  The examples below are intended to illustrate in a nonlimiting manner the present invention.

  Quantities are given in percentages by mass.

EXAMPLES

  The cosmetic formulations illustrated by Examples 1 to 14 which follow are more particularly intended for application in contact with the keratinous material, in this case the lips for the formulations of Examples 1 to 12 and the skin of the face for the formulations of the formulations. Examples 13 and 14.

  The composition illustrated in example is more particularly intended to be applied on the surface of one of the formulations of Examples 1 to 14. The compounds used in the examples below are: - caprylic / capric acid triglycerides marketed by STEPAN - sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed by Eastman - deodorized apricot kernel oil marketed by NESTLE - microcrystalline wax marketed by PARAMELT ozokerite, beeswax, candelilla, carnauba marketed by STRAHL & PITSCH, - hydrogenated vegetable oils marketed by KARLSHAMNS, 30 - rice starch marketed by REMY, and - isopropyl myristate marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS. The lipstick sticks illustrated by the examples below are prepared according to the following protocol: The waxes, the pasty compounds and the oils are melted at 100 ° C. It incorporates the powdery mordant containing the iron oxides and / or the aluminum lakes, then stirring the whole 45 minutes. At the end of the agitation period, the pearlescent agents and optionally the aroma are added. The whole is poured into a lipstick mold previously heated to 42 C. The mold is then introduced into a refrigerator until the temperature of the mold approaches 2 C. The sticks are then removed from the mold and the products stored at 20 C for 24 hours.

  The properties in terms of gloss, hold and coverage have been characterized for some of these sticks. The measurement protocols used are those presented previously.

EXAMPLE 1

  Lipstick Its composition is as follows:% by weight Microcrystalline wax 11.25 Carnauba wax 3.75 Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 76 Brown iron oxide 8 Iron oxide yellow 0.3 Titanium oxide 0.7 Total The stick thus obtained has a strength of 72.5%, a hiding power of 98.7 and a brightness of 7.20.

  EXAMPLE 2 Lipstick Its composition is as follows:% by weight Microcrystalline wax 11.25 Carnauba wax 3.75 Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 66 Brown iron oxide 8 Iron oxide yellow 0.3 Titanium oxide 0, Sucrose acetate isobutyrate Total 100 The stick thus obtained has a strength of 72%, a covering power of 100 and a gloss of 7.52.

EXAMPLE 3

  Lipstick Its composition is as follows:% by weight ozokerite wax 9.75 Beeswax 3.25 Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 32 Brown iron oxide 8 Iron oxide yellow 0.3 Titanium oxide 0.7 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate Hydrogenated vegetable oil 10 Rice starch 1 Total 100 The stick thus obtained has a strength of 63.5%, a covering power of 100 and a gloss of 18.75.

EXAMPLE 4

  Lipstick Its composition is as follows:% by weight ozokerite wax 9 Beeswax 3 Triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids 27 Brown iron oxide 8 Iron oxide yellow 0.3 Titanium oxide 0.7 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 35 Hydrogenated vegetable oil 16 Rice starch 1 Total 100 The stick thus obtained has a strength of 67.5%, a covering power of 100 and a gloss of 30.25.

EXAMPLE 5

  Lipstick Its composition is as follows:% by weight ozokerite wax 9 Beeswax 3 Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 6.75 Brown iron oxide 8 Iron oxide yellow 0.3 Titanium oxide 0.7 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate Apricot oil 20.25 Hydrogenated vegetable oil 16 Rice starch 1 Total 100 The stick thus obtained has a strength of 65%, a gloss of 31.15 and a covering power of 100.

EXAMPLES 6 TO 12

  Table 1 below shows seven formulations of lipstick stick incorporating, as dyestuffs, lakes and nacres approved for food.

  The composition of the white body used in combination with the various mixtures of mother-of-pearl and lacquer is as follows:% by weight Ozokerite 9.9 Beeswax 3.4 Triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids 7.4 Almond oil apricot 22.3 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 38.4 Hydrogenated vegetable oil 17.6 Rice starch 1 Total 100.0 Material Example 6 Example 7 Example 8 Example 9 Example 10 Example 11 Example 12 first% by weight% by weight% by weight% % by weight% by weight% by weight white body 91 85.81 87.06 79.61 87.71 86.92 79.29 iron oxide 3.38 0.36 brown iron oxide 2.7 yellow oxide 1.06 0.77 0.21 3.38 1.12 0.72 5.4 Titanium Iron Oxide 0.75 1.8 Brown, Yellow Iron Oxide Black Mother of Pearl 7.26 Candurin red amber Mother of Pearl 4.17 Candurin silver sparkle Mother-of-pearl 2,08 Candurin silver sheen Mother-of-pearl 4,17 Candurin gold shimmer Mother-of-pearl 9,52 Candurin red luster Mother-of-pearl 2, EXAMPLE 13

16 Candurin Brown amber Mother of Pearl 12 Candurin red shimmer Mother of Pearl 12,5 8,65 Candurin silver chandelier FD & C Blue 0,53 1,28 0,21 1 aluminum lake FD & C 4,37 1,13 Yellow 6 aluminum lake FD & C Red 7,41 0 , 51 3 aluminum lake FD & C Yellow 5 aluminum lake total: 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

  Compact Foundation Formula:% by weight Beeswax 2 Carnauba Wax 4 Isopropyl Myristate 53 Talc 31 Iron Oxide 3 Titanium Dioxide 7

EXAMPLE 14

  Formula casting:% by weight Beeswax 4 Carnauba wax 15 Isopropyl myristate 35 Caprylic / capric acid triglycerides 12 Talc 26 Iron oxide 3 Titanium dioxide 5

EXAMPLE 15

  Composition useful as a top coat:% by weight Sucrose ester marketed under the reference SAIB 42 Beeswax 3 ozokerite wax 7 Phenylmethylsiloxane (DC 555) qs 100

Claims (28)

  1. Process for the cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratinous material (s) comprising at least: the application in contact with a keratinous material of a first composition comprising at least 50% by weight relative to its total weight of compound (s) approved for food, and - the application in contact with all or part of the first applied composition of a second composition comprising at least one physiologically acceptable medium.   2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that the first composition comprises at least 60% by weight, in particular at least 65% by weight, in particular at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, in particular at least 90% and more particularly consists of about 100% by weight relative to its total weight of compound (s) approved (s) in food.   3. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first and / or second composition (s) comprises a fatty phase comprising at least one selected from oils, waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.   4. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said first composition comprises from 0.1 to 99% by weight, in particular from 1 to 90% by weight, in particular from 5 to 70% by weight, in particular from 10 to 65% by weight, or even 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of oil (s) referenced in the Codex Alimentarius.   5. The method of claim 3 or 4, wherein the fat phase comprises at least one vegetable hydrocarbon oil.   6. Process according to claim 3, 4 or 5, in which the oil is chosen from oils comprising at least one fatty acid chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid and myristic acid. palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, cetoleic acid, lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, and mixtures thereof.   7. The method of claim 3, 4, 5 or 6, wherein the oil among the heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, peanut oil, babassu, coconut, grape seed, cotton, corn , corn germ, mustard seed, palm, rapeseed, sesame, soya, sunflower, wheat germ, apricot, canola, mango, castor, shea, avocado , olive, sweet almond, almond, peach, hazelnut, walnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet , barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, rose hip, shea butter, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids, and mixtures thereof.   8. Process according to any one of claims 3 to 7, wherein the wax is chosen from carnauba wax, candellila wax, beeswax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, rice wax, and their mixtures.   9. A process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said first composition comprises from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 3 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, and in particular from 7 to 10% by weight. 20% by weight of wax (es) approved (s) in food, relative to its total weight.   10. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said first composition comprises at least one pasty compound chosen from polyol esters.   The method of any of the preceding claims, wherein said first and / or second composition comprises at least one aqueous phase.   12. The process as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the first composition comprises from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight of an aqueous phase relative to its total weight.   The method of any one of the preceding claims, wherein said first and / or second composition (s) comprises at least one colorant.   14. The method of claim 13, wherein the coloring material present in the first composition is selected from the compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, nacres made of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and mixtures thereof.   15. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the first composition has a resistance index greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, preferably greater than or equal to 45%, and preferably greater than or equal to 45%. or equal to 50%, especially greater than or equal to 55%, in particular greater than or equal to 60%, even greater than or equal to 65%, or greater than or equal to 70%.   16. Process according to any one of the preceding claims, in which the first composition has a covering power greater than or equal to 30, in particular greater than or equal to 50, in particular greater than or equal to 60, more particularly ranging from 80 to 100.   17. Method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition further has a brightness value at least greater than or equal to about 5, or even greater than or equal to about 10, in particular greater than or equal to about 15. , in particular greater than or equal to 20, more particularly greater than or equal to 25, or even of the order of 30.   18. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition and the second composition comprise a continuous phase of the same nature.   19. A method according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the first composition and the second composition comprise a continuous fat phase.   20. The method as claimed in any one of the preceding claims, in which the second composition is distinct from the first composition and reproduces the characteristics of a first composition as defined according to any one of claims 1 to 19.   21. Cosmetic care product and / or make-up of keratin materials comprising at least a first composition consisting of at least 50% by weight relative to its total weight of compound (s) approved for foodstuffs, of which at least a coloring material comprising at least two materials, said coloring material being referenced in the Codex Alimentarius or consisting exclusively of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, and a second composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.   22. Cosmetic care product and / or make-up of keratin materials comprising at least two different compositions and comprising respectively at least 50% by weight relative to their total weight of compound (s) approved (s) in food.   23. The product of claim 21 or 22, characterized in that at least one of the compositions is as defined in any one of claims 2 to 18.   24. Product according to any one of claims 21 to 23, characterized in that it takes the form of a makeup for the lips, such as a lipstick, a complexion product such as a background complexion, loose and / or compact powders, concealer or eyeshadow.   25. A make-up kit comprising a product according to any one of claims 21 to 24.   26. Kit according to claim 25, characterized in that it contains means for applying the first and / or second composition (s) to the skin, the lips and / or the integuments.   27. Kit according to claim 25 or 26, characterized in that it contains application means chosen from brushes, brushes, pens, pencils, felts, feathers, sponges, and foams.   28. Kit according to one of claims 25 to 27, characterized in that the first and second compositions are packaged in separate compartments or containers.