FR2888476A1 - Device for packaging and distributing composition for making up keratin materials comprises compartment with composition containing compounds approved for food use, where device is arranged such that composition is protected from air - Google Patents

Abstract

A device comprises a container delimiting at least one compartment having a cosmetic composition containing compound(s) approved for food use (at least 50 wt.%). The device is arranged such that the composition can be protected from air. An independent claim is included for a process for caring for and/or making up keratin materials involving application of the composition.

Description

The devices targeted by the present invention are more particularly

  dedicated to the application of makeup and / or care products on the skin, lips and / or integuments.

  These products include lipsticks, lip balms, lip pencils, liquid or solid foundations, especially cast in stick or cup, concealer and skin coloring products, ephemeral tattoos, eye makeup products such as eyeliners, especially in the form of pencils, mascaras or eyeshadow.

  In the world of cosmetics where products are renewed extremely quickly, there is a continuing need for new ways and methods of formulation to achieve a level of performance at least equal to that offered by current products or better in some ways, at least.

  Moreover, the choice of raw materials, used for the implementation of these new ways of formulation, must, as it has always been, be guided by a concern, constantly exacerbated, to offer a level of guarantee consumers for whom the cosmetic formulations which incorporate them are intended, as well as for the preservation of the integrity of the environment.

  Thus, according to one of these aspects, the present invention relates to a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition intended for the care and / or make-up of keratinous material (s), characterized in that it comprises: - a container defining at least one compartment containing a cosmetic composition comprising at least 50% by weight relative to its total weight of approved compounds in food material, the device being arranged so that as long as the cosmetic composition remains in the compartment, the composition can be maintained in the latter in the absence of air, until the moment of its distribution for use on keratin materials.

  According to yet another of its aspects, the subject of the invention is a process for the cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratinous materials, comprising the application, in contact with a keratin material, of the composition packaged in a device according to the invention. invention.

  In general, the packaged compositions according to the invention have a physiologically acceptable medium.

  "Cosmetic composition" means a composition as defined in Council Directive 93/35 / EEC of 14 June 1993.

  By "physiologically acceptable medium" means a non-toxic medium that can be applied to at least one keratin material of human beings.

  By "keratinous materials" is intended to cover the skin, the mucous membranes, such as the lips, the nails and the keratin fibers, like the eyelashes and the hair. The cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are particularly advantageous for use on the skin and the lips.

  FOOD COMPONENTS APPROVED

  More generally, "approved compounds of food material" according to the invention means compounds selected from compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, materials consisting exclusively of compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, such as nacres for example , ozokerite and rice wax.

  The Codex Alimentarius, or food code, is the authoritative global reference for consumers, food producers and processors, national food control agencies and the international food trade.

  It brings together food standards, guidelines and other established codes of practice for food products by the Codex Alimentarius Commission, established in 1963 by the Food and Agriculture Organization (FAO) and the World Food Organization. (WHO), within the framework of the Joint FAO / WHO Food Standards Program and under the auspices of the United Nations.

  Within the meaning of the invention, a compound referenced in the Codex Alimentarius means a compound whose use in food ingredients is considered in Codex, and is regulated or not according to specific modalities.

  It is understood that when conditions are specified in the Codex Alimentarius for certain ingredients, they are not critical for the implementation of these same compounds in the compositions according to the invention.

  Generally, "food" ingredient means any substance other than water, used in the manufacture or preparation of a food and present in the finished product although sometimes in a modified form. Thus, the term "food ingredient" includes additives and food extracts.

  In addition, "food additive" means any substance that is not normally consumed as a food in itself and is not normally used as a characteristic ingredient of a food, whether or not it has nutritional value. , and whose intentional addition to the food for technological or organoleptic purposes, at any stage of manufacture, processing, preparation, processing, packaging, packaging, transport or storage of that good, causes or may lead (directly or indirectly) to its incorporation or that of its derivatives into the foodstuff or may affect the characteristics of that food in any other way.

  Within the meaning of the invention, a product consisting exclusively of compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, refers to a material whose composition consists exclusively of compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and which therefore comprises at least two or more compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius. This definition covers, in particular, materials with multilayer structure (s), such as, for example, nacres. Thus, the nacres generally consist of an inorganic substrate such as mica or TiO 2 covered for example with a layer of iron oxide.

  The Codex Alimentarius considered according to the invention is that available on the filing date of the present application.

  For example, for additives, this is Codex Food Additive and Contaminants CX / FAC 05/37/6.

  With regard to the extracts, these are defined in particular in the Codex Alimentarius Volume 8 and more particularly in the standard Codex 19, 33 and 210.

  For vegetable oils, this is the standard Codex 210 version as amended in 2003.

  With regard to edible fats and oils, this is the standard Codex version 19-1981, as revised in February 1993. For example, for olive oil, reference may be made to Standard Codex version 33, revised 1989.

  More preferably, the compositions in accordance with the invention comprise at least 50% by weight, in particular at least 55% by weight or even at least 60% by weight, in particular at least 65% by weight, and more particularly at least 70% by weight. weight and especially at least 75% by weight, or even at least 80% by weight, in particular at least 85% by weight, in particular at least 90% by weight, in particular at least 95% by weight, and more particularly consist of about 100% by weight based on their total weight of compound (s) approved for food.

  Unexpectedly, the presence of the compounds considered according to the invention does not prove to be detrimental to the ancillary qualities expected for a cosmetic composition, for example in terms of resistance, gloss in the case of lipsticks, or coverage in the more specific case of foundations.

  PACKAGING AND DISPENSING DEVICE

  As specified above, a device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition according to the invention comprises at least one container delimiting at least one compartment containing a cosmetic composition according to the invention, and is arranged in such a way that the composition may be kept in the compartment away from air until it is distributed.

  The devices according to the invention comprises sampling means known per se and do not require any particular description.

  According to an alternative embodiment, the compartment may be arranged in such a way that its volume decreases in response to the distribution of the composition contained therein. Such devices are in particular illustrated by the exemplary embodiments represented by FIGS. 1, 3, 4 and 5.

  In particular, the compartment may be delimited by at least one movable wall.

  Thus according to an embodiment such as for example illustrated in Figures 3 and 4, the container 1 may comprise a piston slidably mounted within the compartment.

  The device may thus comprise sampling means disposed on the body of the container, and the container contains a follower piston slidably mounted inside the container. This piston is mounted in a sealed manner and may constitute a wall of the compartment.

  According to one embodiment, such as that described in Figure 3, the depression caused in the compartment by the distribution of all or part of the composition causes the displacement of the piston mounted to slide towards the sampling means.

  Such devices are, for example, described in patents EP 0 486 355 and EPO410857.

  According to another embodiment of this variant, illustrated for example in Figures 1 and 5, the compartment may be delimited by at least one elastically deformable wall.

  The elastically deformable wall may be a surface element of a pocket disposed in the container, as for example in FIG.

  The surface element of the pocket can thus define with the other elements of the inner surface of the container a compartment containing the cosmetic composition according to the invention. Advantageously, the surface element of the pocket may constitute the bottom wall of the compartment. The pocket surface element may be made of an elastically deformable material and may be able to move in the container in response to a composition start to decrease the volume of the compartment containing the composition.

  According to a variant not illustrated, the surface element of the pocket may be provided internally with a liner made of a non-elastically deformable material, but very impermeable to gas, said liner being able to be deployed to accompany the deformation of the pocket up to the wall of the latter is stretched. Thus, the surface element of the pocket can be fixed at one end at its periphery to the container and be able to deform to reduce the volume of the compartment to substantially match the shape of the interior of the container. When the cosmetic composition leaves the container, the depression, thus created in the compartment by the departure of the composition, causes the deformation of the surface element of the pocket in the direction tending to reduce the volume of the compartment, to the cancellation of said depression. The surface element of the pocket can advantageously occupy, thanks to its elasticity, in its state of maximum expansion, almost all the volume initially occupied by the cosmetic composition, whatever the shape of the container.

  As examples of devices thus arranged suitable for the implementation of the present invention, mention may be made of the devices described in patent EP 0 743 263.

  According to another embodiment of this variant, as shown for example in Figures 1 and 5, the compartment can be configured in the form of a pocket having at least one or consisting of a flexible wall.

  The presence of at least one flexible wall allows the shrinkage of the bag as the amount of composition contained inside decreases. The bag may have a generally elongate shape and may be directly attached at an axial end to a dispensing means as illustrated in FIG. 5.

  In the implementation of the devices according to the invention as described above, the particular compartment shown by a pocket can be disposed within a container defining a closed volume adjacent to the compartment.

  Such an embodiment is in particular represented by FIG.

  In this particular embodiment, the container may be provided with at least one air intake port. When the air intake port is clear, air can enter the space of the container to compensate for a decrease in pressure generated in the volume adjacent to the compartment by a decrease in the volume of the compartment at each distribution of the composition.

  According to another embodiment, the container may be devoid of air intake port. In this mode, the device may comprise a pressurized gas to allow the pressurized dispensing of the composition.

  The pressurized gas may be disposed within the compartment.

  The pressurized gas may be disposed outside the compartment, in the internal space of the container adjacent to the compartment.

  Any propellant usually used in the field may be suitable for the implementation of the present invention.

  Advantageously, the sampling means capable of being arranged at some of the aforementioned devices may comprise a pump without air intake, for the distribution of the composition contained in the compartments thereof, thus avoiding any air intake likely to The pump may comprise a composition dispensing pusher and be provided with means for connecting it to the container.

  For example the pump may be provided with a shaped cap to be pressed on an annular rim of a collar of a rigid wall container symmetrical revolution.

  The pump may also include a tubing for withdrawing the composition from the compartment. This tubing can be engaged in the opening of the neck and extend at its lower end into an interior space of the compartment containing the composition.

  The pump may comprise a valve arranged in a manner known per se for allowing the collection of the cosmetic composition according to the invention without the return of air to be taken from the tubing in the compartment.

  According to another variant, the compartment does not undergo deformation in response to the distribution of the composition contained therein.

  For example, the set of makeup and / or care according to the invention may be in the form of a spraying device, such as that illustrated in FIG.

  The dispensing means of the composition contained in the compartment may allow the spraying of the composition, especially in the form of a cloud of fine droplets.

  The pumps usually used in the field to allow spray dispensing can be used for the practice of the present invention.

  According to another variant embodiment, the packaging device is dedicated to a single use.

  Such devices are in particular illustrated by FIGS. 6 and 7.

  Thus, according to the alternative embodiment shown in FIG. 6, the composition according to the invention is disposed on the surface and / or inside a support which is itself disposed inside the container of the assembly. according to the invention.

  For example, the container may be arranged in particular in the form of a bag or a tray. According to this particular embodiment, the container may be arranged in the form of a tray having a housing and a closure member for closing, particularly in a sealed manner, the housing.

  The closure member may comprise a lid, which may be fixed to the receptacle of the tray by gluing or heat sealing, for example.

  The lid may comprise, for example, a film of plastic and / or metal. The lid may be for example a film of polyethylene terephthalate (PET) or a polyolefin, covered or not with a metal, for example aluminum.

  At least a portion of the operculum disposed peripherally may not be adherent to the receptacle to allow gripping of the cap, facilitating its removal.

  The housing of the tray may have any form suitable for all 10 implementations of support as defined above, usually practiced in the field.

  The tray may comprise a plurality of housing, each comprising a support, these supports may be impregnated with or comprise different formulations of compositions according to the invention.

  The user may, for example, choose the support according to the cosmetic application to be carried out, or use several supports of different shapes, combined with identical or distinct formulations of cosmetic compositions according to the invention, for simultaneously treating different zones of the skin. face or body.

  The tray can be made of any material usually used in the field, for example plastic and / or metal. The metal may be, for example, aluminum. Examples of plastics that may be mentioned include thermoplastics, for example polyolefins, in particular polyethylene or polypropylene.

  The tray can be obtained by thermoforming.

  The tray may advantageously be made of a plastic material at least partially transparent or translucent.

  Examples of trays suitable for the implementation of the invention are described for example in the application FR 04 10878.

  Another example illustrating this embodiment dedicated to a single use is shown in FIG. 7. It is an applicator comprising on the one hand a tube in the interior space of which the composition is conditioned and, on the other hand , an application element at one end of the tube.

  The applicator element may be chosen from a cotton tip, a foam tip, a felt tip, a flocked tip, a pad, a ceramic tip or a sintered material. The application element may also include a brush, a comb or a brush.

  The interior space can be closed on a side opposite this application element by a breakable, removable, perforable or deformable end.

  According to one embodiment, it can be disposed in the interior of the tube, a plug of a liquid or a powder, separating the liquid and the application element before use. This cap is arranged to evacuate with the composition when the latter leaves the inner space of the tube during its distribution.

  This mode of packaging, still described as swab type, or cotton swab with a hollow stem suitable for the implementation of the invention may be as described in application FR 02 12155. In this particular case, some of the components of the composition makeup may be packaged in separate compartments, for example arranged in the form of a tube, so as to guarantee them a prolonged stability.

  This embodiment is particularly advantageous with respect to the approved food compounds generally more sensitive to oxidation by ambient air.

  For example, the swab may contain a first composition or a first composition part in the cotton or foam head and a second composition or a second composition part in the hollow section or stem. The compartments of such a packaging are placed in communication with each other only at the time of use of the composition (s) makeup and / or care to allow extemporaneous mixing of its ingredients before application, for example by cutting a breakable portion. Such an assembly is suitable for a single use.

  Other examples of swab-type systems that are suitable for implementing the invention are for example described in the applications FR 2 845 005, FR 2 845 069 and FR 2 844 974.

COSMETIC COMPOSITION

  The cosmetic compositions packaged in the device according to the present invention may comprise a fatty phase comprising in particular at least one compound chosen from oils and solid fats which are solid at room temperature (20 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure, for example waxes and pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.

  Oils and solid fats and mixtures thereof in a form suitable for human consumption, whether or not they have been subjected to transformation operations, such as transesterification or hydrogenation or fractionation, are thus particularly suitable for the invention. .

  Oils and solid fats include foodstuffs conforming to the definition in Section 1 of the Codex Alimentarius and consisting of fatty acid glycerides.

  They can be of animal, vegetable, mineral, synthetic or marine origin.

  They may contain small amounts of other lipids such as phosphatides, unsaponifiable constituents and free fatty acids naturally present in these solid fats and oils.

  a) Oil The term oil is understood to mean any fatty substance in liquid form at ambient temperature (20-25 C) and at atmospheric pressure. The liquid fatty phase may also contain, in addition to oils, other compounds solubilized in oils such as gelling and / or structuring agents.

  The cosmetic composition according to the present invention may comprise at least one, and in particular at least two oils.

  The oils suitable for the preparation of the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may be volatile or nonvolatile oils.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "volatile oil" means an oil (or non-aqueous medium) capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour, at ambient temperature and at atmospheric pressure. The volatile oil is a volatile cosmetic oil which is liquid at ambient temperature, in particular having a non-zero vapor pressure, at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular having a vapor pressure ranging from 0.13 Pa to 40 000 Pa (10 3 to 300 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 13 000 Pa (0.01 to 100 mm Hg), and preferably ranging from 1.3 Pa to 1300 Pa (0.01 to 10 mm Hg) ).

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "non-volatile oil" means an oil having a vapor pressure of less than 0.13 Pa.

  The volatile or non-volatile oils may be hydrocarbon-based oils, in particular of animal, mineral or vegetable origin, synthetic oils, silicone oils, fluorinated oils, or mixtures thereof.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and / or phosphorus atoms.

  The oils more particularly considered according to the invention are hydrocarbon oils and more preferably edible oils including referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and more specifically in standards 19 to 27, 33, 34, 123 to 128 and 210 thereof.

  As examples of oils that are suitable for carrying out the present invention, there may be mentioned oils chosen from oils comprising at least one fatty acid chosen from caprylic acid, capric acid and lauric acid. , myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, acid behenic acid, erucic acid, brassic acid, cetoleic acid, lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, and a mixture of these.

  They are more particularly vegetable hydrocarbon oils and in particular those chosen from triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter being able to be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated. These oils include heptanoic or octanoic triglycerides, peanut oil, babassu oil, coconut oil, grape seed oil, cotton oil, corn oil, corn germ oil, mustard seed oil, palm oil, rapeseed oil , sesame, soya, sunflower, wheat germ, canola, apricot, mango, castor, shea, avocado, olive, sweet almond, peach almond, walnut, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, rose hip, shea butter or triglycerides caprylic / capric acids, and mixtures thereof.

  According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the invention may comprise at least one oil chosen from vegetable hydrocarbon oils and more particularly chosen from the following approved food-grade oils: isopropyl myristate marketed by STEARINERIE DUBOIS, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid marketed by STEPAN; rapeseed hybrid oil, cotton seed liquid oil, refined protected deodorized mango oil, protected shea butter liquid fraction, and refined canola seed oil marketed by KARLSHAMNS; Sheasoft Lipex and KARSLSHAMNS marketed seed oil; deodorized apricot kernel oil marketed by NESTLE; sweet almond oil marketed by SOETENAEY; peach almond oil marketed by AARHUS UNITED; rapeseed oil, corn germ oil, olive oil, grape seed oil, soybean oil and sunflower oil marketed by HUILERIES DE LAPALISSE and nut marketed by SOETENAEY.

  According to one particular embodiment, the cosmetic composition according to the present invention comprises at least one oil chosen from triglycerides of caprylic / capric acid, apricot oil, peach oil and walnut oil. , olive oil.

  According to a particular embodiment, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention comprise from 0.1 to 99% by weight, in particular from 1 to 90% by weight, in particular from 5 to 70% by weight, in particular from 10 to 65% by weight. % by weight, and more particularly from 20 to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the approved oil composition (s) for food and more particularly referenced in the Codex Alimentarius.

  In addition to the above-mentioned oils, the compositions according to the present invention may of course comprise at least one other liquid greave provided that it is present in amounts in accordance with the requirements of the invention.

  Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: synthetic ethers containing from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parleam, squalane and their mixtures, and in particular hydrogenated polyisobutene, and synthetic esters such as oils of formula R 1 000 R 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, provided that R 1 + R 2 is .

  The esters may especially be chosen from esters, in particular of fatty acids, for example: cetostearyl octanoate, esters of isopropyl alcohol, such as isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate or palmitate 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isopropyl stearate or isostearate, isostearyl isostearate, octyl stearate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactact, octyl hydroxystearate , diisopropyl adipate, heptanoates, and especially isostearyl heptanoate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate, cetyl octanoate, tridecyl octanoate, 4-diheptanoate and 2-hexyl ethyl palmitate, alkyl benzoate, polyethylene glycol diheptanoate, propylene glycol hexanoate diethyl 2 and mixtures thereof, C15-C15 alcohol benzoates, laurate hexyl, esters of neopenta acid such as isodecyl neopentanoate, isotridecyl neopentanoate, isostearyl neopentanoate, octyldocecyl neopentanoate, esters of isononanoic acid such as isononyl isononanoate, isotridecyl isononanoate, octyl isononanoate, hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; esters of polyols and esters of pentaerythritol, such as dipentaerythritol tetrahydroxystearate / tetraisostearate; esters of diol dimers and dibasic diacids, such as the Lusplan DDDA5 and Lusplan DD-DA7, marketed by the company Nippon Fine Chemical and described in US Pat. the application FR0302809 filed March 6, 2003.

  branched-chain and / or unsaturated carbon-chain liquid fatty alcohols having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as 2octyldodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-oxyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol and 2- undecylpentadecanol, and - di-alkyl carbonates, the 2 alkyl chains may be identical or different, such as dicaprylyl carbonate sold under the name CETIOL CC, by COGNIS.

  The volatile hydrocarbon-based oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and especially branched C 8 -C 16 alkanes (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6). -pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names ISOPARS or PERMETHYLS.

  The compositions according to the invention may further contain volatile or nonvolatile silicone oils.

  The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising pendant alkyl or alkoxy groups and / or silicone chain ends, groups each having from 2 to 24 atoms. carbon, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, and 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates, dimethicones or phenyltrimethicone with a viscosity less than or equal to 100 cSt, and their mixtures.

  As volatile silicone oils, it is more particularly possible to use volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 × 10 -6 m 2 / s), and especially having 2 to 10 silicon atoms, and in particular from 2 to 7 silicon atoms, these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of dimethicones of viscosity 5 and 6 cSt, octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane and hexamethyl. disiloxane, octamethyl trisiloxane, decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane, and mixtures thereof.

  Fluorinated volatile oils such as nonafluoromethoxybutane or perfluoromethylcyclopentane and mixtures thereof can also be used.

  The compositions according to the invention may also advantageously comprise at least one compound chosen from waxes, pasty fatty substances, and mixtures thereof.

  b) Waxes The wax is solid at ambient temperature (25 ° C), has a reversible solid / liquid state change, has a melting temperature greater than 30 ° C up to 200 ° C., a hardness greater than 0.5 MPa and present in the solid state an anisotropic crystalline organization.

  It can be hydrocarbon, fluorinated and / or silicone and be of animal, vegetable, mineral or synthetic origin.

  Advantageously, the compositions in accordance with the present invention comprise at least one wax chosen from waxes approved for foodstuffs.

  For the purposes of the present invention, a "wax approved for food" covers the waxes referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, including the waxes referenced in table 1 of the Codex Alimentarius, ozokerite and rice wax.

  Thus, the compositions according to the present invention advantageously comprise a wax chosen from beeswax, ozokerite, rice wax, carnauba wax, candelilla wax, microcrystalline waxes and mixtures thereof.

  Advantageously, the wax used in the cosmetic compositions according to the invention is chosen from microcrystalline wax marketed by PARAMELT and more particularly ozokerite, beeswax, Candelilla, Carnauba sold by STRAHL & PITSCH, and their mixtures.

  According to a particular embodiment, the approved wax or waxes of food material is or are present in the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention in a content ranging from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 3 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight, and especially from 7 to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the compositions.

  In addition to these approved waxes for foodstuffs, the compositions according to the invention may comprise one or more waxes chosen, for example, from synthetic waxes such as polyethylene waxes (preferably of molecular weight between 400 and 600) or of Fischer waxes. -Tropsch, silicone waxes such as alkyl- or alkoxydimethicone having from 16 to 45 carbon atoms, paraffin waxes, ceresins, for example isoparaffins whose melting point is less than 40 C, such as EMW-0003, marketed by the company NIPPON SEIROU, oligomers of α-olefin, such as polymers PERFORMA V 825, 103 and 260, marketed by NEW PHASE TECHNOLOGIES; ethylene-propylene copolymers, such as PERFORMALENE EP 700, and mixtures thereof.

  c) Paste Compounds The cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention may also comprise at least one pasty compound.

  For the purposes of the present invention, the term "pasty" means a reversible solid / liquid state fatty compound having a liquid fraction and a solid fraction at a temperature of 25 ° C. Paste is also understood to mean vinyl polylaurate.

  Particularly suitable as pasty compounds according to the invention are polyol esters.

  The polyol esters which can be used in the context of the present invention are commercially available or can be prepared in a conventional manner. They are generally of plant origin and may in particular be obtained by mono- or poly-esterification of a polyol with a C 2 -C 3 monocarboxylic acid, for example a fatty acid or with a dicarboxylic acid such as a dimer. diacid.

  The ester obtained can be, in particular, a polyester, a triester, a diester, a monoester or a mixture thereof. In this case, the ester can be a mixture of two or more types of ester formed with different carboxylic acids.

  In the case of esterification with a monocarboxylic acid, esters having a relatively high molecular weight ranging from about 200 to 1300 g / mol can be obtained.

  In the esterification reaction with a dicarboxylic acid, there can be obtained a polyol dicarboxylate having a weight average molecular weight, determined by gel permeation chromatography (GPC), ranging from 200 to 20,000 g / cm 2. mol, preferably between 2000 and 4000 g / mol.

  By "polyol" or "polyhydric alcohol" is meant, within the meaning of the present invention, any organic molecule comprising at least two free hydroxyl groups.

  The polyhydric alcohols which are advantageously suitable for the formulation of the cosmetic compositions according to the present invention are those having in particular 2 to 20 carbon atoms, in particular 3 to 10 carbon atoms, and more particularly 4 to 6 carbon atoms.

  Advantageously, the polyol may for example be chosen from a diol dimer, glycerine, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, pentylene glycol, hexylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, diethylene glycol, sorbitol, hydroxypropyl sorbitol, 1,2,6-hexanetriol, glycol ethers (having in particular from 3 to 16 carbon atoms), such as the mono-, di- or tri-propylene glycol alkyl (Ci-C4) ethers, the alkyl (Ci -C4) ethers of mono-, di- or tri-ethylene glycol; and their mixtures.

  It may also be "diol dimer", i.e. saturated diols produced by hydrogenation of the corresponding diacid dimers.

  A diol dimer may be produced by hydrogenation of a diacid dimer, itself obtained by dimerization of an unsaturated fatty acid, in particular of C8 to C34, such as those mentioned above, in particular in C12 to C22 and in particular in C16 to C20. preferably C18, for example oleic acid and linoleic acid.

  The polyols that are more particularly suitable are sugars chosen from monosaccharides, disaccharides and trisaccharides. As representative of these sugars, there may be mentioned monosaccharides such as xylose, arabinose, galactose, fructose, mannose, glucose and mixtures thereof. As a representative of the disaccharide polyols, there may be mentioned more particularly maltose, lactose, sucrose and combinations thereof.

  The monocarboxylic acid which can be used in the present invention may comprise from 2 to 34 carbon atoms, and especially from 10 to 32 carbon atoms.

  By way of illustration, examples of monocarboxylic acid that are suitable for the invention include: saturated linear acids such as butanoic acid, pentanoic acid, hexanoic acid, heptanoic acid, octanoic acid, nonanoic acid, decanoic acid, undecanoic acid, dodecanoic acid, tridecanoic acid, tetradecanoic acid, pentadecanoic acid, hexadecanoic acid, heptadecanoic acid, octadecanoic acid, nonadecanoic acid, eicosanoic acid, docosanoic acid, tetracosanoic acid, branched fatty acids such as, for example, isobutanoic acid, isopentanoic acid, pivalic acid, isohexanoic acid, isoheptanoic acid, isooctanoic acid, dimethyloctanoic acid, isononanoic acid, isodecanoic acid, isoundecanoic acid, isododecanoic acid, isotridecanoic acid, isotetradecanoic acid, acid is opto-decanoic acid, isohexadecanoic acid, isoheptadecanoic acid, isooctadecanoic acid, isononadecanoic acid, isoeicosanoic acid, 2-ethylhexanoic acid, 2-butyloctanoic acid, 2-hexyldecanoic acid, 2octyldodecanoic acid, 2-decyltetradecanoic acid, 2dodecylhexadecanoic acid, 2-tetradecyloctadecanoic acid, 2-hexadecyloctadecanoic acid, long chain fatty acids obtained from lanolin, unsaturated linear C 8 -C 34 fatty acids such as undecenoic acid, linderic acid, myristoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, oleic acid, linoleic acid, elaidinic acid, gadolenoic acid, eicosapentaenoic acid, docosahexaenoic acid, erucic acid, brassidic acid, arachidonic acid, hydroxy acids such as 2-hydroxybutanoic acid, 2-hydropentanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhepta acid 2-hydroxyoctanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonanoic acid, 2-hydroxydecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyundecanoic acid, 2-hydroxydodecanoic acid, 2-hydroxytridecanoic acid, hydroxyeicosanoic acid, 2-hydroxydocosanoic acid, acid 2-hydroxytetracosanoic acid, cyclic acids such as cyclohexanoic acid, hydrogenated rosin, rosin, abietic acid, hydrogenated abietic acid, benzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, p-oxybenzoic acid, aminobenzoic acid, cinnamic acid, pmethoxycinnamic acid, salicylic acid, gallic acid, pyrrolidonecarboxylic acid, nicotinic acid, and - naturally occurring fatty acids, such as fatty acids of oil of orange, avocado oil, macadamia oil, olive oil, hydrogenated soybean oil, jojoba oil, palm oil, castor oil, d wheat germ oil, saffron oil, cottonseed oil, mink oil and mixtures thereof.

  It is more particularly a fatty acid, especially as defined above.

  2-hydroxytetradecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyhexadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyheptadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 12hydroxyoctadecanoic acid, 2-hydroxynonadecanoic acid, 2-acid dicarboxylic acid usable according to the invention may contain at least two carboxylic groups per molecule.

  It may in particular be represented by the following formula: HOOC (CH 2) n COOH in which n is an integer of 1 to 16, preferably 3 to 16.

  By way of non-limiting illustration of the dicarboxylic acids that are suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned malonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, azelaic acid, sebacic acid, 1,9nonamethylene-dicarboxylic acid, 1,10-decamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,11-undecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,12-dodecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, acid 1, 13-tridecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,14tetradecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,15pentadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid, 1,16hexadecamethylenedicarboxylic acid and mixtures thereof.

  The dicarboxylic acid may also be a diacid dimer. A diacid dimer denotes a diacid obtained by polymerization reaction, especially intermolecular, dimerization of at least one unsaturated fatty acid including C8 to C34, such as those mentioned above, especially C12 to C22, in particular C16 to C20, preferably C18 in the image for example of oleic acid and linoleic acid.

  Also particularly suitable as polyol esters are the polyol polyesters in which the fatty acid ester units of the polyester comprise saturated or unsaturated chain lengths chosen so that the compound has the required behavior in terms of pasty compounds according to the invention.

  The unsaturated fatty acid chains are typically branched chains and more particularly contain from 12 to about 22, and more preferably from about 18 to 22 carbon atoms.

  The unsaturated fatty acid chains more particularly considered are mono- and / or di-unsaturated C18 fatty acids.

  These long chains can be associated with shorter chains of saturated fatty acids. They are generally linear and contain from 2 to about 12, preferably from 6 to about 12, and more preferably from 8 to 12 carbon atoms.

  In general, the esterification rate of these fatty acid esters is such that about 60% of the hydroxyl functions of the polyols are esterified, and more particularly about 85% or even 95% of the hydroxyl functions.

  As regards the unsaturated long-chain fatty acid ester units, there may be mentioned more particularly laureate, myristoleate, palmitoleate, oleate, elaidate, eructate, linoleylate, linolenate, arachidonate, eicosapentaenoate and docosahexaenoate. For reasons of oxidation stability, mono- and di-unsaturated fatty acid chains are preferred.

  As regards the saturated long-chain unsaturated fatty acid ester units, mention may be made especially of arachidate, behenate, linosanate and serotate esters.

  As regards the short chain saturated fatty acid ester units, it is more particularly acetate, caproate, caprilate, caprate and laurate.

  As solid polyol fatty acid polyesters that are particularly suitable for the invention, there may be mentioned more particularly the raffinose octa-esters in which the esterifying fatty acid parts are linoleate and behenate, the maltose hecta esters in wherein the esterifying fatty acid moieties are derived from the sunflower seed oil and lignoserate fatty acid, the sucrose octaesters wherein the esterifying fatty acid moieties are behenate and oleate and sucrose octaesters in which the esterifying fatty acid parts are laurates, linoleates and behenates.

  Such polyesters of solid fatty acids can be obtained according to methods already described for the preparation of polyol polyesters. As such, reference may in particular be made to US 5,306,516, US 5,306,515, US 5,305,514, US 4,797,300, US 3,963,699, US 4,518,772 and US 4,517,360.

  As pasty compound that is advantageously suitable for formulating the cosmetic compositions in accordance with the present invention, mention may be made more particularly of fractionated hydrogenated triglycerides, and especially those marketed by SIO; hydrogenated vegetable oils, hydrogenated palm oil cocoa butter and for example that marketed by KARLSHAMNS, solid cottonseed oil and for example that marketed by SIO, sucrose acetate isobutyrate and for example that marketed by EASTMAN CHEMICAL.

  Among the other pasty compounds that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may also be made of lanolines and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines, oxypropylenated lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, and mixtures thereof.

  Mention may also be made of silicone pasty compounds such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) of high molecular weight and in particular those having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55. C, such as stearyl dimethicones, especially those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514 and mixtures thereof.

  According to one variant of the invention, the solid substances, such as waxes or pasty compounds, may be chosen for their effectiveness in texturing a liquid fatty phase. In general, the compounds that are suitable for this purpose have a melting point greater than or equal to 50 ° C., in particular greater than or equal to 55 ° C., or even ranging from 55 ° to 150 ° C. and even from 60 ° to 130 ° C.

  In addition to waxes and certain pasty compounds, fillers such as nylon can also be used.

  d) Aqueous Phase According to certain aspects of the present invention, the packaged composition according to the invention may comprise at least one aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition.

  The aqueous phase may consist exclusively of water.

  It may also comprise a mixture of water and of a water-miscible organic solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, and aldehydes in C2-C4.

  According to one embodiment, the cosmetic composition suitable for the implementation of the present invention may be in the form of a single water-in-oil or oil-in-water emulsion, multiple (water-oil-water or oil-in-water). water-oil), or reverse, the implementation of which is well known to those skilled in the art.

  The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) may be present at a content ranging from 0.1 to 50% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5 to 40% by weight, in particular from 1 to 25% by weight. % by weight and in particular 1 to 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

  According to yet another aspect of the invention, the composition according to the invention can be anhydrous.

  For the purpose of the present invention, the term "anhydrous composition" is intended to denote a composition comprising less than 10% by weight of water per total weight of the composition, in particular less than 5%, in particular less than 2%, and more particularly less than 1% by weight of water relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Advantageously, an anhydrous composition according to the invention is devoid of water.

  e) Dyestuffs The cosmetic composition in accordance with the invention may advantageously incorporate one or more dyestuffs, in particular of the type of pigment or nacre conventionally used in cosmetic compositions.

  The term "pigments" is intended to mean white or colored, inorganic or organic particles, insoluble in an aqueous solution, intended to color and / or opacify the corresponding cosmetic composition.

  As mineral pigments that can be used in the invention, mention may be made of zirconium or cerium oxides, as well as zinc oxides, or chromium oxides, ferric blue, manganese violet, ultramarine blue and chromium hydrate.

  By "nacres", it is necessary to include colored particles of any shape, iridescent or not, in particular produced by certain shellfish in their shell or else synthesized and which exhibit a color effect by optical interference.

  These dyestuffs may be present in a proportion of from 0.01 to 40% by weight, in particular from 0.1 to 20% by weight, and in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, or even from 1 to 10% by weight. weight relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.

  Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention comprise dyestuffs approved for foodstuffs, in particular referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and more specifically the substances referenced in Table 1 thereof.

  In particular, the dyestuffs may be dyestuffs with at least two materials, said dyestuff being referenced in the Codex Alimentarius or consisting exclusively of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius.

  More precisely, it is at least one dyestuff chosen from nacres consisting of materials referenced in the Codex alimentarius, lacquers approved for food, and also referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and dyestuffs approved by the Codex Alimentarius. , and their mixtures.

  As representative of these dyestuffs, mention may be made more particularly of mineral pigments such as titanium and iron oxides, and water-soluble or liposoluble coloring agents such as, for example, Sudan red, [3-carotene, beet juice, culinary disodium salt, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, DC Red N 7, DC Green N 6, DC Yellow N 11, DC Violet N 2, DC Orange N 5, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll, canthaxanthin, carmine, erythrosine, indigotine and riboflavin.

  In the case of the present invention, the choice of nacres made of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius is preferred.

  By way of illustration of such nacres, mention may be made more particularly of nacres based on mica coated with titanium and / or iron oxide, nacres based on mica coated with titanium and / or with iron oxide and coated with surface of at least one organic dye, such as, for example, carbon black, and mica-based nacres coated with aluminum, silver and / or gold and, where appropriate, surface-coated with at least an organic dye.

  Advantageously, the base material as well as the above-mentioned surface coatings are approved food materials. For example, TiO 2 is registered under the reference E171, iron oxide under the reference E172, carbon black under the reference E153, aluminum under the reference E174, and gold under the reference E175.

  Such composite materials are sold especially by Merck under the name CANDURIN.

  As regards the lacquers, mention may be made more particularly of carbon black, organic lacquer-type pigments of barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum, titanium, including those subject to certification by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) ( FD & C example), cochineal carmine lacquers, or diketopyrrolopyrroles (DPP) described in EP-A-542669, EP-A-787730, EP-A-787731 and WO-A96 / 08537.

  As "lacquer" type pigments that are particularly suitable for the invention, mention may be made especially of those marketed by LCW SENSIENT under the names FD & C Yellow No. 5 / E102, FD & C Yellow No. 6 / E110, FD & C Blue No. / E132, FD & C Red. 40 / E129, FD & C Blue No. 2 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Lake Aluminum, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Lake Aluminum, FD & C Blue Aluminum Lake, FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake and FD & C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake.

  Of particular interest are FD & C Blue Aluminum Lake, FD & C Green No. 3 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 5 Aluminum Lake, FD & C Yellow No. 6 Aluminum Lake and FD & C Red No. 40 Aluminum Lake.

  With regard to lacquers and nacres, these dyestuffs are particularly advantageous for providing an effect different from a simple conventional hue effect, that is to say unified and stabilized as produced by conventional dyestuffs, such as, for example monochromatic pigments.

  For the purposes of the invention, "stabilized" means devoid of effect of variability of the color with the angle of observation. The effect obtained with the nacres and / or lacquers may be an effect selected from the metallic effects including mirror, soft-focus, and / or rainbow.

  In addition to the above-mentioned coloring agents, such as those specifically approved for foodstuffs, the compositions may of course comprise other organic or inorganic coloring substances.

  It can thus be organic pigments. These include the following names: D & C Blue # 4, D & C Brown # 1, D & C Green # 5, D & C Green # 6, D & C Orange # 4, D & C Orange # 5, D & C Orange # 10, D & C Orange # 11, D & C Red No. 6, D & C Red No. 7, D & C Red No. 17, D & C Red No. 21, D & C Red No. 22, D & C Red No. 27, D & C Red No. 28, D & C Red No. 30, D & C Red No. 31, D & C Red No. 33, D & C Red # 34, D & C Red # 36, D & C Violet # 2, D & C Yellow # 7, D & C Yellow # 8, D & C Yellow # 10, D & C Yellow # 11.

  The organic dyestuff may comprise an organic lacquer supported by an organic support such as rosin or aluminum benzoate, for example.

  As organic lakes, mention may be made especially of those known under the following denominations: D & C Red n 2 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 6 Barium lake , D & C Red # 6 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Strontium lake, D & C Red # 6 Potassium lake, D & C Red # 7 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 7 Barium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium lake, D & C Red # 7 Calcium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 7 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 8 Sodium lake, D & C Red # 9 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium lake, D & C Red # 9 Barium / Strontium lake, D & C Red # 9 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 10 Sodium lake, D & C Red # 19 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 19 Barium lake, D & C Red # 19 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 21 Aluminum lake, D & C Red # 21 Zirconium lake, D & C Red # 22 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 27 Aluminum / Titanium / Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 27 Barium lake, D & C Red n 27 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 27 Zirconium lake, D & C Red n 28 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 30 lake, D & C Red n 31 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 33 Aluminum lake, D & C Red n 34 Calcium lake, D & C Red n 36 lake, D & C Red n 40 Aluminum lake, D & C Blue nl Aluminum lake, D & C Green n 3 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 4 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 5 Zirconium lake, D & C Orange n 10 Aluminum lake, D & C Orange n 17 Barium lake, D & C Yellow n 5 Aluminum lake, D & C Yellow n 5 Zirconium Lake, D & C Yellow # 6 Aluminum Lake, D & C Yellow # 7 Zirconium Lake and D & C Yellow # 10 Aluminum Lake.

  The compositions according to the invention may also contain diffracting agents, goniochromatic agents and / or reflective particles. F) Charge The cosmetic compositions generally further contain fillers of mineral or organic origin.

  Of course, the compounds proposed above, especially as coloring agents, are capable of jointly performing this function.

  Particularly suitable for the invention, non-pigmentary inorganic compounds approved by the Codex Alimentarius and more particularly referenced in Table 1 thereof.

  As such can be mentioned more particularly talc, precipitated calcium carbonate, carbonate and magnesium hydrogen carbonate.

  g) Additives The compositions according to the invention may, in addition, comprise all the ingredients conventionally used as additives in the cosmetic and dermatological field.

  These additives are advantageously chosen from the food additives proposed in Table 1 of the Codex Alimentarius for example antioxidants, thickeners, sequestering agents, alkalizing agents or acidifying preservatives and mixtures thereof.

  The compositions according to the invention may further contain aromas and / or fragrances.

  The amounts of these various ingredients are those conventionally used in the fields concerned and for example vary from 0.01% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose this or these optional additional compounds, and / or their quantity, in such a way that the advantageous properties of the product according to the invention are not, or not substantially, impaired by the addition considered.

BRILLIANCE TEST

  Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may also have a gloss greater than or equal to 5, in particular greater than or equal to 10, in particular greater than or equal to 15, more particularly greater than or equal to 20, in particular greater than or equal to 25 , even in the order of 30.

  By "brightness" is meant the brightness as measured by the following method, using a gonioreflectometer-type apparatus such as GRM-2000 (MICROMODULE), using an azimuthal angle of illumination of 30 to the normal of the sample, a specular reflection (R) detection angle of 30 and a diffuse reflection detection angle (D) of 0.

  A rectangular-shaped foam-like support 40 x 70 mm in size is made from a brick-colored foam (L * = 37 3; a * = 15 2; b * = 11 2 in the CIE space L * a * b * 1976), NEOPRENE 3 mm thick and which has an adhesive side, including a foam known under the commercial reference RE40 x 70 C / C 212B skin 1, sold by the company Joint Technique Lyonnais Ind.

  On the face opposite to the adhesive face of this support, a transparent plaster sold by the company 3M under the commercial reference BLENDERM FH 5000-55113, having a quality of use such as the deposition of a composition on this coating is fixed on the face opposite to the adhesive face of this support. allows to simulate the application on the skin or the mucous membranes, the sensation with the application and the resulting color being similar even if the film is little covering.

  The foam support coated with the transparent plaster is then fixed, by gluing, with its adhesive side to a metal plate 40 × 70 mm in size. The assembly constituted by the support bonded to the metal plate forms a test piece.

  The operator produces a total of 5 test pieces identical to those described above.

  We will now describe an embodiment of the brightness evaluation method.

  The operator arranges the test piece on a heating plate set at a temperature of 38.5 ° C., for example an N81076 type heating plate sold by the company FISHER BIOBLOCK, and waits for the face of the support bearing the adhesive coating to reach a temperature of 33 C 1 C.

  Once the carrier is at the desired temperature, the operator manually applies a film about 15 m thick of the cosmetic product to the BLENDERM coating.

  The cosmetic product, which is, for example, a lipstick, has been stored at 25.degree.

  The gesture made by the operator to deposit the product film consists of a round trip, so as to obtain a homogeneous deposit. The application of the product on the support is preferably carried out so as to be as representative as possible of the actual conditions of application of the product. The same product to be tested is applied identically to the same five test pieces prepared previously.

  The film of the product is allowed to dry, the test piece being placed on the heating plate, so that the support remains at 33 ° C. for 10 minutes.

  The intensity of the specular reflection and that of the diffuse reflection of the film of the product are measured with the incidences specified previously for each of the five test pieces.

  From the measured values, the brightness Brillances is calculated for each specimen by the R / D ratio for this specimen. The weighting of the specular reflection measurement, generally used alone to characterize the brightness, by the diffuse reflection measurement (representative of the color / clarity of the sample) makes it possible to better account for the visual perception of the brightness.

  We can finally calculate the average value Brightness of the brightness: Brightness = 1 LBrillance. N and standard deviation: 6 Gloss = 1 Gloss z.2 (L Brightness) N (N -1) and the 95% confidence interval: Gloss 1,96 / Brzance N where N is the number of measurements that is, in this case. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention may be capable of forming a deposit having an index of withstand greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, preferably greater than or equal to 45%, preferably greater than or equal to 45%. or equal to 50%, especially greater than or equal to 55%, in particular greater than or equal to 60%, even greater than or equal to 65%, or greater than or equal to 70%.

  The resistance index of the deposit obtained with the composition according to the invention can be determined according to the measurement protocol described below.

  A support (rectangle 40 mm × 70 mm) made of an acrylic coating (hypoallergenic acrylic adhesive on a polyethylene film sold under the name BLENDERME ref FHSO00-55113 by the company 3M Santé) is prepared on a layer of adhesive polyethylene foam. on the opposite side to that on which is fixed the plaster (layer of foam sold under the name RE40X70EP3 of the company JOINT TECHNIQUE LYONNAIS IND).

  The color L * 0a * 0b * 0 of the support is measured using a MINOLTA CR 300 colorimeter, on the acrylic coating side.

  The support thus prepared is preheated on a heating plate maintained at a temperature of 40 ° C. so that the surface of the support is maintained at a temperature of 33 ° C. The hot support is removed from the plate and the composition is applied to the entire non-adhesive surface of the support (i.e., on the surface of the acrylic coating) by spreading it with a brush to obtain a deposit of the composition of about 15 m. The whole is put back on the plate and allowed to dry for 10 minutes.

  After drying, the color L * a * b * of the film thus obtained is measured.

  The color difference AE1 is then determined between the color of the film with respect to the color of the bare support by the following relation: AE1 = (L * -Lo *) z + (a * - ao *) z + (b * - bo *) 2 The support is then glued by its adhesive side (adhesive side of the foam layer) on an anvil with a diameter of 20 mm and provided with a thread. A test piece of the support / deposit assembly is then cut using a punch with a diameter of 18 mm. The anvil is then screwed onto a press (MANUAL STATIF IMADA SV-2 from SOMECO) equipped with a dynamometer (IMADA DPS-20 from SOMECO).

  On a 80 g / m2 white photocopy paper, draw a strip 33 mm wide and 29.7 cm long, draw a first line 2 cm from the edge of the sheet, then a second line at 5 cm the edge of the sheet, the first and second lines thus delimiting a box on the strip; then we have a first mark and a second mark located in the band at 8 cm and 16 cm markings respectively. 20 g of water are placed on the first mark and the second mark 10 g of refined sunflower oil (sold by the company LESIEUR).

  The white paper is placed on the base of the press and then the specimen placed on the box of the paper strip is pressed at a pressure of about 300 g / cm exerted for 30 seconds. Before making a new pressure, the specimen is removed and a measurement corresponding to the transfer after pressing is carried out. The test piece is then again placed just after the second mark (hence beside the box), a pressure of approximately 300 g / cm 2 is again performed and the paper is moved rectilinearly from the contact made. a speed of 1 cm / s, over the entire length of the strip so that the specimen passes through the water and oil deposits.

  After removal of the specimen, a portion of the deposit was transferred to the paper. The color L * ', a *', b * 'of the deposit remaining on the test piece is then measured.

  The color difference AE2 is then determined between the color of the deposit remaining on the specimen relative to the color of the bare support by the following relation.

  AE2 = (L *, _ L0 *) 2 + (a * '- ao *) z + (b *, - bo *) 2 The strength of the composition, expressed as a percentage, is equal to the ratio X AE2 / AE1 The measurement is carried out on 6 substrates afterwards and the holding index corresponds to the average of the 6 measurements obtained with the 6 supports.

COVERING POWER

  Advantageously, the cosmetic compositions according to the invention may have a covering capacity greater than or equal to 30, in particular greater than or equal to 50, in particular greater than or equal to 60, more particularly greater than or equal to 80, in particular ranging from 90 to 100, about 100.

  This hiding power can be measured by the following method.

  In the case of a stick, the composition is premixed so as to obtain a viscous paste.

  In the case of a powder, 50 parts by weight of the powder are kneaded with 50 parts by weight of dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid 5CST by Dow Corning) so as to obtain a viscous paste.

  The formulation is then spread with a thickness of 50 m on an Erichsen contrast chart, type 24/5, having a black background and a white background, and the trichromatic coordinates (X, Y, Z) are measured using a CH-2002 or CR-3700 colorimeter.

  Similar spreads are made on two other contrast cards and three measurements are made on each card. The average corresponding to these nine measurements is then calculated.

  The hiding power is equal to 100 x Yn / Yb where Yn is the average value of Y 5 on a black background and Yb is the average value of Y on a white background. A hiding power of 100 corresponds to a completely opaque formulation.

  The compositions according to the invention may be in the form of a product, colored or not, in the form of a sun protection product. They may in particular contain cosmetic assets. They can then be used as a basis for care or treatment for the lips such as lip balms, protecting the lips from cold and / or sun and / or wind.

  As a cosmetic active agent that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of sunscreens, vitamins A, E, C, B3, provitamines such as Dpanthenol, soothing active ingredients such as a-bisabolol, aloe vera and allantoin. , plant extracts or essential oils, protective or restructuring agents such as ceramides, freshness actives such as menthol and its derivatives, emollients (cocoa butter), moisturizers (arginine PCA), anti-wrinkle active agents, acids essential fats, and their mixtures.

  The composition of the invention may also be in the form of a lip makeup product such as a red or a lip gloss, optionally having care or treatment properties.

  The compositions according to the invention can be obtained according to the preparation methods conventionally used in cosmetics or in dermatology.

  Of course, the compositions packaged according to the invention are likely to be in very varied forms. Thus, they can be in the form of a paste, or a cream. They may be an emulsion, in particular oil-in-water or water-in-oil, an anhydrous, solid or flexible gel or be in the form of loose or compacted powder, cast in stick or cup, and even in biphasic form. . According to a particular variant, they are in the form of an emulsion.

  Of course, the makeup device according to the invention is chosen so as to be adapted to the pharmaceutical form of the composition.

  Thus, it can be adapted to a packaging of a composition in solid form, namely in hard form (not flowing under its own weight) including cast or compacted, for example in a tray as illustrated in Figure 6.

  The invention will be better understood on reading the following detailed description of non-limiting examples thereof, and on examining the appended drawing in which: FIG. 1 is an elevational view, with partial longitudinal section, of a first example of implementation of the invention, - Figure 2 shows schematically, in perspective, a packaging device according to another embodiment of the invention, - the figure 3 is an elevational view, with partial longitudinal section, of another example of a packaging device according to the invention; FIG. 4 shows in elevation another example of a packaging device; FIG. 5 is a diagrammatic view; and in perspective of another example of a packaging device, - Figure 6 shows in perspective a disposable packaging device, and - Figure 7 shows in elevation another example of device con disposable packaging.

  FIG. 1 shows a packaging and dispensing device 1 that may be suitable for packaging a composition according to the invention.

  This device comprises a container 2 equipped with a sampling means 3 such as a pump without air intake. The composition may be contained inside the container 2 in a flexible pouch 4.

  An air intake port 5 may be provided in the container 2.

  FIG. 2 represents another example of a distribution packaging device that may be suitable for packaging a composition according to the invention.

  This device 10 comprises a pressurized container 11 equipped with a sampling means 12 such as a valve, for example. The composition may be contained in the container 11 by being mixed with the propellant or, alternatively, in a flexible bag, the propellant being outside the bag inside the container. When the user presses on the valve 12, the composition can be sprayed thanks to the pressure of the propellant. The latter may be compressed air when the composition is contained in a flexible bag inside the container 11.

  FIG. 3 shows another packaging and dispensing device 20 that can contain a composition according to the invention. This device comprises a container 21 and a cylindrical body in which a piston 22 can slide. The composition is contained inside the container 21 above the piston. The container is equipped with a pump 23 without air intake for taking the composition. When the volume thereof decreases, the piston rises in the cylindrical container body.

  FIG. 4 shows another packaging and dispensing device 30 that can contain a composition according to the invention.

  This device 30 comprises a container 31 containing the composition and an actuator 32 rotatable relative to the container 31 for moving inside thereof a piston. The operating member 32 is for example in the form of a wheel in the lower part of the container 31 and can be integral with a threaded rod meshing with the piston. The container 31 may be provided with a dispensing orifice equipped with a valve 33 so as to avoid a return of air. When the user turns the knob 32, the piston rises inside the container 31 and forces the composition out through the dispensing orifice equipped with the valve 33. Where appropriate, the case 32 may be equipped with a mechanism preventing rotation in the opposite direction to that causing the distribution of the composition.

  FIG. 5 shows a packaging and dispensing device 50 according to an alternative embodiment of the invention.

  This device 50 comprises a container 51 having at least one flexible wall, made for example in the form of a flexible tube. The container 51 comprises a neck 52, which is for example threaded so as to allow the attachment of a not shown closure cap and which can be equipped with a dispensing valve 33 preventing a return of air after dispensing. a dose of the composition. This valve 53 is for example an elastomer or ball valve.

  The devices illustrated by all the preceding figures are more particularly suitable for the packaging of fluid cosmetic compositions such as image foundations and / or solutions intended to provide a complementary effect at the level of a make-up composition already applied, for example in terms of gloss and / or makeup hold.

  FIG. 6 shows a disposable packaging and dispensing device 60 in the form of a tray 63. This container contains the composition C, which impregnates, for example, a support 62 to be applied to the region to be treat. This support is disposed in a housing 62 present in the tray. The tray is sealed before the first use by a lid 61 which is for example heat sealed to the tray, at least a portion 64 may not adhere to the receptacle to allow its grip. This type of device is particularly suitable for packaging the compositions illustrated by Examples 1 to 9 below.

  FIG. 7 shows another example of a packaging and application device 70 comprising a tube containing composition C, this tube 73 having a breakable end 71 and an application element 72 at another end. The composition is isolated from the air by a silicone plug. Such a tube is marketed by SWAB PLUS.

  The compounds used in the examples below are: - caprylic / capric acid triglycerides marketed by STEPAN - sucrose acetate isobutyrate marketed by Eastman - deodorized apricot almond oil marketed by Nestle - ozokerite , beeswax, sold by STRAHL & PITSCH, - hydrogenated vegetable oils marketed by KARLSHAMNS - rice starch marketed by REMY.

  The compositions of lipstick illustrated by the examples below are prepared according to the following protocol: The waxes, the pasty compounds and the oils are melted at 100 ° C. It incorporates the powdery mordant containing the iron oxides and / or the aluminum lakes, then stirring the whole 45 minutes. At the end of the agitation period, the pearlescent agents and optionally the aroma are added. The whole is poured into a tray like the one illustrated in FIG. 6 previously heated to 42 ° C. The tray is then introduced into a refrigerator until the temperature of the mold approaches 2 C.

  The assembly is then hermetically packaged using a lid which is heat sealed to the edges of the tray.

EXAMPLES 1 TO 7

  Table 1 below shows seven formulations of lipstick incorporating, as dyestuffs, lacquers and nacres approved for food.

  The composition of the white body used in combination with the various mixtures of mother-of-pearl and lacquer is as follows: Ozokerite% by weight Beeswax 3,4 Triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids 7.4 Apricot almond oil 22, 3 Sucrose acetate isobutyrate 38.4 Hydrogenated vegetable oil 17.6 Rice starch 1 Total 100.0 Material Example 1 Example 2 Example 3 Example 4 Example 5 Example 6 Example 7 First% by weight% by weight% by weight% by weight% by weight% by weight% by weight white body 91 85.81 87.06 79.61 87.71 86.92 79.29 iron oxide 3.38 0.36 brown iron oxide 2.7 yellow oxide 1, 06 0.77 0.21 3.38 1.12 0.72 5.4 Titanium Iron Oxide 0.75 1.8 Brown, Yellow Iron Oxide Black Mother of Pearl 7.26 Candurin red amber Mother of Pearl 4.17 Candurin silver sparkle Mother of pearl 2,08 Candurin silver sheen Mother of pearl 4,17 Candurin gold shimmer Mother of pearl 9,52 Candurin red luster Mother of pearl 2,16 Candurin Brown amber Mother of pearl 12 Candurin red shimmer Mother of pearl 12,5 8,65 Candurin silver luster FD & C Blue 0,53 1, 0.21 1 uminium lake FD & C 4.37 1.13 Yellow 6 aluminum lake FD & C Red 7.41 0.51 3 aluminum lake FD & C Yellow 5 aluminum lake total: 100 100 100 100 100 100 100

EXAMPLE 8

  Compact Foundation Formula:% by weight Beeswax 2 Carnauba Wax 4 Isopropyl Myristate 53 Talc 31 Iron Oxide 3 Titanium Dioxide 7

EXAMPLE 9

  Formula casting:% by weight Beeswax 4 Carnauba Wax 15 Isopropyl Myristate 35 Caprylic / Capric Acid Triglycerides 12 Talc 26 20 Iron Oxide 3 Titanium Dioxide 5

Claims (30)

  1. A device for packaging and dispensing a cosmetic composition for the care and / or makeup of keratinous material (s) characterized in that it comprises a container defining at least one compartment containing a cosmetic composition comprising at least one 50% by weight relative to its total weight of compound (s) approved (s) in food, the device being arranged so that, as long as the cosmetic composition remains in the compartment, the composition can be maintained in the latter protected from the air, until the moment of its distribution for use on a keratin material.   2. Device according to claim 1 characterized in that the compartment is arranged so that its volume decreases in response to the distribution of the composition it contains.   3. Device according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the compartment is delimited by at least one movable wall.   4. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the compartment is defined by at least one elastically deformable wall.   5. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the compartment is configured in the form of a pocket with at least one flexible wall.   6. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the container comprises a piston slidably mounted within said compartment.   7. Device according to any one of claims 2 to 6 characterized in that the compartment is disposed within a container defining a closed volume adjacent to the compartment, said container being provided with at least one recovery port d air to compensate for a decrease in pressure generated in said volume by a decrease in the volume of the compartment at each distribution of the composition.   8. Device according to any one of claims 2 to 7 characterized in that it is equipped with a pump without air intake for the distribution of the composition contained in the compartment.   9. Device according to any one of claims 1 to 6 characterized in that it comprises a pressurized gas to allow the pressure distribution of the composition.   10. Device according to claim 9, characterized in that the pressurized gas is disposed inside the compartment.   11. Device according to claim 9, characterized in that the pressurized gas is disposed outside the compartment.   12. Device according to any one of claims 9 to 11, characterized in that it comprises means for allowing the spraying of the composition, in particular in the form of a cloud of fine droplets.   13. Device according to claim 12 characterized in that the compartment contains the amount of composition necessary for use so as to be for single use.   14. Device according to claim 12, characterized in that it is configured in the form of a bag, or any other single-use packaging mode, in particular in the form of a thermoformed tray closed by a glued or heat-sealed lid, or a swab system.   15. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least 55% by weight, in particular at least 60% by weight, in particular at least 70% by weight, in particular at least 75% by weight, in particular at least 80% by weight, in particular at least 90% by weight and more particularly consists of about 100% relative to its total weight of compound (s) approved (s) in food.   16. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein said composition comprises at least one fatty phase.   17. Device according to the preceding claim, wherein the fatty phase comprises at least one compound selected from oils, waxes, pasty fatty substances and mixtures thereof.   18. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 20 to 90% by weight, in particular from 30 to 80% by weight, and more particularly from 40 to 70% by weight relative to its total weight of oil (s) referenced in the Codex Alimentarius.   19. Apparatus according to claim 17 or 18, wherein the oil is selected from oils comprising at least one fatty acid selected from caprylic acid, capric acid, lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, oleic acid, ricinoleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid, arachidic acid, gadoleic acid, behenic acid, erucic acid, brassic acid, cetoleic acid, lignoceric acid, nervonic acid, and a mixture thereof.   20. Device according to claim 17, 18 or 19, wherein the oil is selected from hepato or octanoic triglycerides, peanut, babassu, coconut, grape seed, cotton, corn oils. , corn germ, mustard seed, palm, rapeseed, sesame, soya, sunflower, canola, wheat germ, apricot, mango, castor, shea, avocado , olive, sweet almond, peach almond, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, squash, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley , quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, rose hip, shea butter, triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids and mixtures thereof.   21. Device according to any one of claims 17 to 20, wherein the wax is chosen from carnauba wax, candelilla wax, beeswax, microcrystalline waxes, ozokerite, rice wax and their mixtures.   22. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition comprises from 1 to 50% by weight, in particular from 3 to 40% by weight, in particular from 5 to 30% by weight and in particular from 7 to 30% by weight. 20% by weight relative to its total weight of wax (es) approved (s) in food.   23. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition comprises at least one pasty compound chosen from polyol esters.   24. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition further comprises at least one dyestuff.   25. Device according to the preceding claim, wherein said coloring material is selected from the compounds referenced in the Codex Alimentarius, nacres made of materials referenced in the Codex Alimentarius and mixtures thereof.   26. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition has an average brightness value at least greater than or equal to about 5, or even greater than or equal to about 10, in particular greater than or equal to about 15, in particular. particular greater than or equal to about 20, more particularly greater than or equal to about 25, or even about 30.   27. Device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition has a covering power greater than or equal to 30, in particular greater than or equal to 50, in particular greater than or equal to 60, more particularly greater than or equal to 70, or even varying. from 80 to 100.   28. Device according to any one of the preceding claims wherein the composition has an index of withstand greater than or equal to 30%, preferably greater than or equal to 40%, preferably greater than or equal to 45%, preferably greater than or equal to at 50%, especially greater than or equal to 55%, in particular greater than or equal to 60%, even greater than or equal to 65%, or greater than or equal to 70%.   29. Device according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the composition is intended to be applied to the skin and / or the lips.   30. A method of cosmetic care and / or makeup of keratinous materials comprising applying, in contact with a keratin material, the composition packaged in a device according to any one of the preceding claims.