FR2876905A1 - Preparation of an active ingredient, useful e.g. for the hair protection, comprises solubilizing green tea powder, separating soluble and insoluble phases, filtering and collecting the filtrate and sterilizing the filtrate - Google Patents

Abstract

Preparation of an active ingredient (A) for hair protection, comprises: solubilizing green tea powder (preferably powder of green tea leaves), at a rate of at least 50 g/l in a solution of water/glycol; separating the soluble and insoluble phases by decantation, filtration and centrifugation; filtrating and collecting the filtrate; and sterilizing filtration of the filtrate. Independent claims are also included for: (1) (A) (having: dry matter of 15-100 g/l, pH of 3-8; dosage of phenolic compounds of 4-32 g/l and polyphenol composition comprising hydroxybenzoic compounds (5-15%), hydroxycinnamic compounds (0.2-0.7%), flavanals (42-100%), flavones (1.8-5.4%) and flavonols (5-14%)); and (2) cosmetic composition comprising (A) in the form of clear gel, shining gel, shampoo, after-shampoo, restructuring capillary care or rinsing cream.

Description

METHOD FOR OBTAINING AN ACTIVE ACTIVE PRINCIPLE WITH HAIR PROTECTION EFFECT,

  ACTIVE PRINCIPLE OBTAINED AND ASSOCIATED COMPOSITIONS

  The present invention relates to a process for obtaining an active ingredient from green tea to fight against the harmful effects of environmental damage and solar radiation on the hair.

  The invention also relates to the active ingredient that can be obtained by this method and associated cosmetic compositions.

  A hair is composed of an invisible part, the follicle, and a visible part, the stem. The constituent cells of the hair are born in the follicle then migrate to the surface and transform into keratinocytes to build the hair shaft arranged in three concentric parts: the marrow, the cortex and the cuticle. The marrow is the innermost part of the stem. It is discontinuous, sometimes absent and essentially consisting of a protein known as trichoyalin.

  The cortex, which surrounds the marrow, is the central and essential part of the hair. It consists of keratinized cells rich in melanin, the pigment responsible for the color of the hair.

  The cuticle, which sheaths the hair, is also composed of cells filled with keratin that overlap to form scales. Although tightened, these scales give a shiny appearance to the hair.

  The hair is essentially made of keratin which gives it mechanical properties. It also contains, in the intercellular cement of the cortex and the cuticle, lipids in the form of sterols, fatty acids and ceramides, which ensure the cohesion of the cells and give the hair a certain impermeability.

  The presence of keratin and lipids and the particular organization of the hair fiber thus ensure its mechanical strength. But despite this natural protection, environmental aggressions lead to aging and the hair becomes unsightly.

  The hair is more and more often exposed to various aggressions and more particularly environmental aggressions such as wind, sea salt and solar radiation. These aggressions lead to mechanical and morphological changes of the hair fibers, and the hair becomes dry, dull and brittle.

  One of the most important phenomena in hair damage is UV radiation (Braida et al., 1994) which leads to the formation of free radicals that cause hair fiber alterations and loss of hair. shine and color brilliance of the hair.

  Solar radiation causes major changes in the mechanical, ultrastructural and sensory properties of hair: texture change, rough appearance, increased porosity, loss of flexibility, etc. Solar radiation induces a change in the chemical composition of the hair that becomes "photo-oxidized". Free radicals cause the oxidation of natural or artificial pigments of the hair.

  The active ingredient according to the present invention therefore proposes to reduce the harmful effects of free radical environmental attacks, and solar in particular.

  The active ingredient according to the present invention prevents, on the one hand, photo-oxidation reactions induced by exposure to solar radiation and makes it possible to limit the formation of photoinduced peroxides. On the other hand, used post-irradiation, the active ingredient according to the present invention has a repairing effect by reducing the propagation of the peroxides formed as a result of solar stress.

  In addition to an anti-radical activity, the active ingredient according to the invention has a strong iron chelating power, which gives it a protective action vis-à-vis the radical aggression due to certain heavy metals such as iron.

  Due to its high antioxidant action, the active ingredient according to the present invention preserves the color of hair strands previously colored and subjected to a solar stress or a salt water bath. Thus, on locks of colored hair, the active ingredient according to the invention limits the color fading induced by solar irradiation or by salt baths.

  The invention is now described in detail both from the point of the process and the active ingredient obtained with subsequent results obtained.

  1 / PROCESS FOR OBTAINING THE ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION: The method of obtaining consists in the succession of the following steps: solubilization of a green tea powder, in particular a powder of green tea leaves, at the rate of at least 50 g / l, in a water / glycol solution, in particular a solution comprising 50% water and 50% of a glycol and more particularly 50% of butylene glycol and 50% of water.

  separation of the soluble and insoluble phases by decantation, filtration and centrifugation, filtration and collection of the filtrate, sterile filtration of the filtrate obtained.

  2 / CHARACTERIZATION OF THE ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION: 2-1 / Dry matter: The rate of solids is measured by passing in an oven at 105 ° C. for a sample of initial weight given until a weight is obtained. constant. The solids content is between 15 and 100 g / l, more particularly between 48 and 68 g / l.

  2-2 / pH measurement: The pH measured by the potentiometric method at ambient temperature leads to values of between 3.0 and 8.0, more particularly between 5.0 and 6.0.

  2-3 / Determination of phenolic compounds: Phenolic compounds form colored compounds in the presence of potassium ferricyanide, the intensity of this coloration being proportional to the amount of phenolic compounds.

  With reference to a standard range of gallic acid, in this case a range of 40 to 120 mg / l, the amount of phenolic compounds can be deduced.

  The results give from 4 g / l to 32 g / l of phenolic compounds, mainly from 14 g / l to 22 g / l.

  These compounds can be characterized. High pressure liquid chromatography gives as polyphenol composition: 5 to 15% of hydroxybenzoic compounds, more particularly 8.3%, of 0.2 to 0.7% of hydroxycinnamic compounds, more particularly 0.4%, of 42 to 100% flavanols, more particularly 70%, - 1.8 to 5.4% flavones, more particularly 3.0%, and - 5 to 14% flavonols, more particularly 7.8%.

  The analysis of the active ingredient by High Pressure Liquid Chromatography (HPLC) shows that it is composed mainly of hydroxybenzic compounds, hydroxycinnamic compounds, flavonols, flavonols and flavones.

  It can then be determined whether the polyphenols actually constitute the active fraction of the active ingredient developed in particular with regard to its antiradical activity.

  For this purpose, these phenolic compounds are removed by addition of polyvinylpolypyrrolidone and the anti-radical activity of the active ingredient according to the invention is compared with or without phenolic compounds in tubo and on the hair.

  In fact, the comparison of the chromatographic analyzes of the active principle and the active ingredient added with polyvinylpolypyrrolidone shows a loss of more than 90% of the total phenolic fraction.

  The results on the anti-radical activity (Di Phenyl Picrylhydrazyl Hydrate or DPPH method) are as follows: without polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, the active principle at 0.25% has a high antiradical activity of 84%, and with polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, the mixture with 0.25% has an almost zero free radical activity of 2.3%.

  The active fraction of the active principle for the anti-radical activity therefore consists of phenolic compounds.

  The results on the anti-peroxidation activity of the hair are the following: - without polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, the active ingredient at 0.25% has a high anti-peroxidant activity of 76%, and with polyvinylpolypyrrolidone, the 0.25% mixture does not has no antiperoxidant activity.

  The active fraction of the active ingredient for the anti-peroxidative activity therefore consists of phenolic compounds.

  3 / EVALUATION OF THE EFFECT OF THE ACTIVE PRINCIPLE ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION ON THE HOLDING OF PIGMENTS 3-1 / After aggression by UVA ultraviolet radiation: The purpose of this study is to evaluate the beneficial effect of the active ingredient according to the present invention. invention on the holding of a hair coloring on locks of hair subjected to repeated UVA irradiations.

  The calorimetric measurement of the locks of hair is carried out using a chromameter which converts the colors into a numerical code consisting of three parameters: - L, which represents the brightness, from dark to pale, - a, which represents the range from green to red, and - b, which represents the range from blue to yellow.

  A fourth parameter E takes into account all the hue variations and the brightness of the coloration.

  For this study, standardized and homogenized locks are used. At first the locks are colored. The color of the locks is measured using a chromameter.

  On D1, the locks are distributed as follows: - non-irradiated control - control irradiated with UVA at 70 J / cm2 test with the active principle according to the present invention measured at 0.25%, then irradiation with 70 UVA J / cm2.

  We repeat the same treatment on D2 and D3.

  At day 4, the color of the locks is measured using a chromameter.

  The results concerning the variation of each parameter given by the chromameter after irradiation of the wicks by UVA are presented in the following tables, the unit UA corresponding to an Arbitrary Unit: Results for the parameter a: Parameter a JO J4 Aa (UA ) Untreated, non-irradiated hair 3.59 0.06 3.74 0.07 0.15 0.02 Untreated, irradiated hair 3.63 0.07 4.35 0.10 0.72 0.03 Treated hair with the principle 3.68 0.06 4.20 0.09 0.52 0.03 active at 0.25%, irradiated It is observed that the repeated UVA irradiations significantly increase the parameter representing the color of the range of greens to red. It is found that the active ingredient according to the present invention measured at 0.25% makes it possible to reduce the variation of the parameter a by 27%.

  Results for parameter b: Parameter b OJ J4 Ab (UA) Hair untreated, non-irradiated 5.06 0.11 5.81 0.14 0.75 0.06 Untreated hair, irradiated 5.11 0.18 6 , 77 0.21 1.66 0.06 Hair treated with the 5,17 0,20 principle 6,40 0,19 1,23 0,07 active at 0.25%, irradiated It is observed that the repeated UVA irradiations increase significantly the parameter representative of the color of the range from blue to yellow. It is found that the active ingredient according to the present invention used at 0.25% makes it possible to reduce the variation of the parameter b by 26%.

  Results for parameter L: Parameter L JO J4 AL (UA) Hair untreated, non-irradiated 18.79 0.20 19.13 0.21 0.34 0.01 Untreated hair, irradiated 19.05 0.23 19 , 66 0.20 0.61 0.07 Hair treated with the principle 18.81 0.27 18.94 0.29 0.13 0.07 active at 0.25%, irradiated It is observed that the repeated UVA irradiations increase significantly the parameter representative of the clarity of the coloring. It can be seen that the preventive use of the active ingredient according to the present invention at a concentration of 0.25% makes it possible to significantly reduce the lightening of the color by 77%.

  Results for parameter E: Parameter E JO J4 AE (UA) Untreated, non-irradiated hair 19.80 0.20 20.35 0.22 0.55 0.02 Untreated hair, irradiated 20.06 0.25 21 , 23 0.24 1.17 0.08 Hair treated with the principle 19.99 0.32 20.32 0.31 0.33 0.08 active at 0.25%, irradiated It is observed that the repeated UVA irradiations increase significantly the parameter representative of the variation of the hue. It can be seen that the preventive use of the active ingredient according to the present invention at a concentration of 0.25% makes it possible to significantly limit the variation of the hue by 72%.

  4-2 / After aggression with salt water: The objective of this study is to evaluate the effect of the active principle according to the present invention on the behavior of the hair coloring on strands of hair subjected to aggression of the type repeated baths of salt water. Standardized and homogenized locks of European blond type are used which are initially colored. The color of the locks is measured using a chromameter.

  On day 1, the locks are distributed as follows: untreated control: wicks are placed for 2 hours in a salt water bath (36 g / l, pH = 6.8), and test: wicks are placed for two hours in a salt water bath (36 g / l, pH = 6.8) to which 0.25% of active ingredient according to the present invention is added.

  After aggression, the locks are rinsed, dried and put in the dark. We repeat the same treatment on D2, D3, D4 and D5.

  At day 6, the color of the locks is measured using a chromameter.

  Results for parameter a: Parameter a After After Aa (AU) Aaen% staining saline baths Hair untreated 4,29 0,08 5,30 0,08 1,01 0,06 Hair treated principle 4,36 0,07 5 , 0.08 0.74 0.07 -27 active at 0.25% It is observed that aggression by salt water baths greatly increases the value of parameter a, that is to say the range of green to red. It is found that the active ingredient according to the present invention measured at 0.25% makes it possible to limit the variation of this parameter a, in this case by 27%.

  Results for parameter b: Parameter b After After Ab (UA) Ab in% staining saline baths Hair untreated 6.75 0.17 9.45 0.21 2.70 0, 13 Hair treated principle 6.85 0.17 8.69 0.18 1.84 0.16 -32 active at 0.25% It is observed that aggression by repeated baths of salt water significantly increases the parameter b representative of the color of the range of blues to yellows. . It is found that the active ingredient according to the present invention used at 0.25% makes it possible to limit the variation of the parameter b by 32%.

  Results for parameter L: Parameter L After After AL (UA) ALen% staining saline baths Hair untreated 20.48 0.27 22.89 0.28 2.41 0.22 Hair treated principle 20.31 0.25 22 0.27 1.92 0.31 -20 active at 0.25% It is observed that the aggression by repeated baths of salt water increases the parameter representative of the clarity of the coloration. It can be seen that the use of the active principle according to the present invention, assayed at 0.25%, makes it possible to significantly limit the lightening of the stain by 20%.

  Results for parameter E: Parameter E After After AE (UA) AE in% salt bath coloring Hair untreated 21.99 0.32 25.33 0.34 3.34 0.24 Hair treated principle 21.88 0.29 24.41 0.31 2.53 0.33 -24 active at 0.25% It is observed that aggression by repeated baths of salt water increases the parameter representative of the variation of the hue. It can be seen that the use of the active principle according to the present invention at a concentration of 0.25% makes it possible to significantly limit the hue variation by 24%.

  EXAMINATION OF THE ANTIOXIDANT ACTIVITY OF THE ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO INVENTION 4-1 / Ex vivo study: 4-1-1 / Evaluation of the protective effect vis-à-vis the formation of 5 photo-induced peroxides: The purpose of this study is to characterize the photoprotective effect of the active ingredient according to the invention on locks of hair attacked by solar irradiation. This test is performed on locks of brown hair, homogenized and standardized.

  They are distributed as follows: an untreated, non-irradiated control, an untreated control, irradiated, an assay treated with the active ingredient, then irradiated, and a positive control treated with a vitamin E solution (1011 g / ml) , then irradiated.

  The level of peroxides is measured by fluorescence, using a fluorescent probe. The higher the level of peroxides, the higher the measured fluorescence.

  The locks are treated with the active ingredient according to the present invention at 0.05%, 0.10% or 0.25%.

  For each control and each test, two wicks are contacted for two hours with the appropriate treatment. The locks are then irradiated with a solar simulator at 376 J / cm2, then stored at room temperature.

  These locks are then prepared for fluorescence analyzes.

  The fluorescence measurement is carried out using a fluorimeter in microplates, the results being expressed in fluorescence intensity per mg of hair.

  The results are presented in the following table which shows the intensity of fluorescence in Arbitrary unit per mg of hair and the photoprotective efficiency A of the treatment in percent: Fluorescence A in% Untreated, non-irradiated control 139 4 Untreated control, irradiated 223 3 Positive control Vitamin E 186 6 - 44 Active principle at 0, 05% 188 14 - 42 Active principle at 0.10% 175 5 - 57 Active principle at 0, 25% 159 15 - 76 Firstly, we notice that an irradiation of 376 J / cm2 in the solar simulator induces an increase of more than 60% of the rate of peroxides on the locks of hair.

  It is also noted that the preventive treatment of locks of hair with the active ingredient according to the invention, assayed at 0.25%, significantly reduces the formation of peroxides by 76%. This beneficial effect is greater than that induced by the vitamin E positive control which already leads to a 44% decrease.

  The use of the active principle according to the invention therefore limits in a dose-dependent manner the formation of photoinduced peroxides on hair strands subjected to solar irradiation.

  4-1-2 / Evaluation of the reparative effect vis-à-vis the propaqation of photo-induced peroxides: The objective of this study is to characterize the anti-peroxidant effect post-irradiation of the active ingredient according to the present invention on wicks after aggression by solar irradiation.

  The evaluation of this effect consists in studying the anti-peroxidative effect of the active principle tested at different concentrations for a given irradiation.

  The locks used are locks of brown hair, homogenized and standardized. The following are used: non-irradiated, untreated wicks, irradiated locks, untreated, a positive control consisting of irradiated locks then treated with a vitamin E solution (10 11 g / ml), and irradiated locks then treated with the active principle according to the invention, at concentrations of 0.05; 0.10 and 0.25%.

  The level of peroxides is measured by fluorescence, using a fluorescent probe. The higher the level of peroxides, the higher the measured fluorescence.

  The locks are irradiated at a dose of 376 J / cm 2, except the unirradiated control.

  After irradiation, the locks are contacted for two hours with the appropriate treatment, and then stored for 24 hours at room temperature.

  The results of the fluorescence measurement are given in the following table: Fluorescence A in% Untreated, non-irradiated control 106 14 Untreated, irradiated control 141 14 Positive control Vitamin E 106 12 100 0.05% active principle + irradiation 115 4 - 75 Active principle at 0, 10% + irradiation 106 13 - 100 Active principle at 0.25% + irradiation 106 14 - 100 It can be seen that the active principle according to the invention has a significant anti-peroxidative repair effect. This effect is dose-dependent and causes a return to normal peroxide level for a dose of 0.10% of active ingredient.

  The post-irradiation treatment of locks of hair with the active ingredient according to the invention measured at 0.10% thus makes it possible to reduce the peroxide propagation by 100%.

  4-2 / Studies in tubo: 4-2-1 / Evaluation of the anti-radical activity: The objective of this study is to evaluate the anti-radical effectiveness of the active principle by using the method with Di Phenyl Picrylhydrazyl Hydrate or DPPH.

  DPPH is a free absorbing radical in violet at 517 nm. If a product exhibits an anti-radical activity, it causes a disappearance of the violet coloration in the presence of DPPH.

  To carry out this study, the DPPH was dissolved with methanol and the samples to be tested were diluted to a total concentration of about 50 μg / ml.

  A positive control sample is prepared in the presence of 0.12% epigallocatechinegallate in distilled water, whose anti-radical activity is recognized.

  The results are expressed in the following table: Anti-free radical activity Epigallocatechin-gallate control 82 4 Active principle based on 0.16% green tea 62 5 Active principle based on 0.20% green tea 79 3 Active principle based on 0.40% green tea. An anti-radical activity of more than 50% is observed from the presence of 0.16% of active principle according to the present invention. This effect is dose-dependent, and assayed at 0.40%, the active ingredient produces a high anti-radical activity of 85%.

  4-2-2 / Evaluation of the chelating activity with respect to iron: The purpose of this study is to evaluate the chelating power of the active ingredient according to the present invention with respect to iron. For this purpose, the free iron content is quantified by colorimetric spectrophotometric assay.

  The results, grouped in the following table, show that the active ingredient according to the present invention has a dose-dependent chelating activity with respect to iron. The control is ethylene diamine tetraacetic (EbTA).

  Iron chelating activity (%) EDTA control 74 1 Active principle based on green tea at 0.20% 67 3 Active principle based on green tea at 0.40% 80 3 Assayed at 0.40%, the active ingredient according to the present invention can chelate 80% of the iron initially present.

  The active ingredient according to the present invention has a strong antioxidant activity since it prevents the formation of free radicals and destroys the already generated radicals.

  5 / COSMETIC COMPOSITION INCLUDING THE ACTIVE INGREDIENT ACCORDING TO THE INVENTION: The present invention also covers cosmetic compositions including the active ingredient according to the present invention in various galenic forms, cream, fatty or aqueous emulsion, ointment, gel, solution, shampoo, after -shampoo, care, balm ....

  It is then necessary to analyze the stability of the dosage forms including the active ingredient according to the invention, this in proportions of between 0.1 and 3%.

  The stability is characterized by a lack of precipitation of the asset, an absence of creaming and a lack of phase shift.

  Formulations which have shown physical stability including 1% of active principle according to the invention may be mentioned.

  Clear gel: - Carbopol: 0.5% with triethanolamine: qsp pH = 6.5 Glycerol: 10.0% - Propylene glycol: 10.0% Imidazolydinylurea: 0.5% Active ingredient 1% - Water: 78.0% Shine gel: Sepigel 305: 1.5% - Propylene glycol: 40.0% Imidazolydinylurea: 0.5% Cyclomethicone: 14.0% - Active ingredient 1% - Water: 43.0% Shampoo: SDS 25%: 25, 0% NaCl: 3.0% Imidazolydinylurea: 0.5% Citric acid: 0.1% Active ingredient: 1% Water: 70.4% After shampoinq: Montanov 68: 5.0% Amonyl DM: 2.0% Dimethicone : 3.0% - Imidazolydinylurea: 0.5% Active ingredient: 1% Water: 88.5% Restructuring hair care: Montanov 68: 5.0% Dimethicone: 2.0% Imidazolydinylurea: 0.57. Active ingredient 1% Water: 91.5% Conditioner balm: Viscolam AT 64: 3.0% Amonyl DM: 1.0% Sweet almond oil: 1% Dimethicone: 2% Imidazolydinylurea: 0.5% Active ingredient 1% Water: 91.5% In addition, tests showed the compatibility of the active ingredient with the raw materials used in cosmetics.

Claims (9)

  1. A method for obtaining an active ingredient with a protective effect of the hair, characterized in that it comprises the following steps: - solubilization of a green tea powder, especially a green tea leaf powder, to at least 50 g / l, in a water / glycol phase separation soluble and insoluble solution by decantation, filtration and centrifugation, filtration and collection of the filtrate, sterilizing filtration of the filtrate obtained.   2. Process for obtaining an active ingredient with a protective effect on the hair, characterized in that the solubilization is carried out in a solution comprising 50% water and 50% glycol and more particularly 50% butylene glycol and 50% of water.   3. Active ingredient obtained by the implementation of the process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it has the following parameters: Dry matter: solids content between 15 and 100 g / l, pH measurement: pH between 3.0 and 8.0.   Determination of phenolic compounds: dosage ranging from 4 g / l to 32 g / l.   Polyphenol composition: 5% to 15% hydroxybenzoic compounds, 0.2% to 0.7% hydroxycinnamic compounds, 42% to 100% flavanols, 1.8% to 5.4% lavones. 5% to 14% flavonols.   4. Active ingredient obtained by the implementation of the process according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that it has the following parameters: Dry matter: dry matter content between 48 and 68 g / I, - Measurement of pH: pH between 5.0 and 6.0.   - Determination of phenolic compounds: the dosage is between 14 g / l to 22 g / l.   Polyphenol composition: 8% hydroxybenzoic compounds, 0.4% hydroxycinnamic compounds, 70% flavanols, 3% flavones, 7.8% flavonols.   5. Use of the active ingredient according to one of claims 3 or 4 for incorporation into a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it makes it possible to fight against the appearance of free radicals and the weakening of the hair.   6. Use of the active ingredient according to one of claims 3 or 4 for incorporation into a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it helps to fight against photo-oxidation during exposure to sunlight.   7. Use of the active ingredient according to one of claims 3 or 4 for incorporation into a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it makes it possible to combat the degradation of artificial colorations under the effect of solar radiation.   8. Use of the active ingredient according to one of claims 3 or 4 for incorporation into a cosmetic composition, characterized in that it improves the resistance of the hair coloring against repeated contact with water salty.   9. Cosmetic composition including the active ingredient according to one of claims 3 or 4, characterized in that it is included in a limpid gel, a shine gel, a shampoo, a conditioner, a restructuring hair care or a detangling balm .