FR2844187A1 - Make-up or care composition for keratinic materials, e.g. mascara, comprises a high-tack wax - Google Patents

Abstract

Make-up or care composition for keratinic materials comprises at least 25 wt.% of a wax having a tack of at least 0.7 N.s and a hardness of 3.5 MPa or less.

Description

<Desc / Clms Page number 1>

The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising a tacky wax. This composition can be used especially in the field of carving or caring for keratin materials such as the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair, the nails of human beings. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for the care or makeup of keratin materials.

The composition may be in the form of mascara, eyebrow product, eyeliner, eyeshadow, blush, foundation, lip product, makeup product. body (semi-permanent tattoo), hair makeup product. More particularly, the invention relates to a mascara.

The mascara composition can be a makeup composition, a composition to be applied to a make-up, also called a top-coat, or an eyelash treatment composition.

Mascaras are commonly prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras, so-called cream mascaras, in the form of emulsion of waxes in water; anhydrous or low-water mascaras, so-called water-proof mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

It is known to use various waxes for the formulation of mascaras such as those described in document WO-A-91/12793, for example beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, or even wax. of polyethylene.

However, when the mascaras contain certain waxes in a large quantity (above 20% by weight of the total weight of the mascara), such as carnauba wax, rice bran wax or polyethylene wax, the deposition of the makeup eyelashes obtained has a granular appearance thus conferring a non-smooth and non-homogeneous makeup defects that make the makeup unsightly.

Moreover, in order to obtain a mascara having good loading properties, ie to obtain a thick makeup of the eyelashes, it is possible to incorporate in the mascara one or more waxes in a total content of greater than 25%. by weight of the total weight of the mascara. Or by using conventional waxes such as beeswax, candellila wax, or carnauba wax in these high levels, the mascara composition becomes very consistent, or even too compact, and can not be easily applied to the eyelashes. with commonly used masking brush applicators. The mascara too thick is deposited on the eyelashes in the form of packets and the makeup thus obtained does not have the desired smooth appearance, the makeup is not homogeneous and has an unsightly appearance.

In addition, certain waxes, such as orange wax and lanolin wax, used at contents greater than 25% by weight, lead to compositions which do not

<Desc / Clms Page number 2>

 are not sufficiently stable, especially after a storage for two weeks at room temperature (25 C): the composition is en masse (significant increase in viscosity) or has a phase shift which is observed visually with the naked eye. The composition is then unsuitable for application to keratin materials.

The object of the present invention is to provide a composition for the makeup or care of keratin materials comprising a high level of wax to obtain a homogeneous and smooth deposit on keratin materials.

Another object of the present invention is to provide a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to keratin materials, which may comprise a high level of wax.

Another object of the invention is to obtain a cosmetic composition comprising a high level of wax which is stable, especially after storage for 24 hours at 25 ° C., or even for 15 days.

The inventors have discovered that such a composition can be obtained by using a particular wax having tacky properties (high tack).

This wax makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to keratin materials, having good adhesion to keratin materials and which leads to the formation of a smooth and homogeneous makeup, not presenting granular appearance.

In addition, the tacky wax may be incorporated into the composition in a content of up to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, without obtaining a build up of the composition: the composition is stable (no - Especially stability after 24 hours at 25 C), remains of a creamy consistency and easily applied to keratin materials.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a makeup or care composition for keratin materials comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition of a wax having a sticking greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for the makeup or non-therapeutic care of keratinous substances, in particular the skin, the nails, the hair, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

<Desc / Clms Page number 3>

The invention also relates to the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a makeup of keratinous homogeneous and / or smooth materials.

The invention also relates to the use of a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in a cosmetic composition, to obtain a makeup materials keratinic homogeneous and / or smooth and / or obtain a stable cosmetic composition, the wax being present in a content of at least 25% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a cosmetic medium compatible with keratin materials such as eyelashes, skin including the lips, hair, nails, eyebrows.

The wax present in the composition according to the invention has a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s, in particular ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.sub.s, preferably greater than or equal to 1 N.sub.s, in particular ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N. s, and preferably greater than or equal to 2 N. s, in particular ranging from 2 N. s to 10 N. s, and more preferably greater than or equal to 2 N. s, in particular ranging from 2 N to 5 Ns

The tacky wax has a hardness of less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 MPa, preferably from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and more preferably from 0.1 MPa at 2.5 MPa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid state change. , having a melting temperature of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 55 ° C. and up to 200 ° C., especially up to 120 ° C.

By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a wax crystallization is obtained. in the oils of the mixture.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 C per minute.

The adhesive of the wax is measured at 20 ° C. by means of the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a mobile in acrylic polymer in the form of a cone forming an angle of 45 ° C. by measuring the evolution of the force

<Desc / Clms Page number 4>

 (compression force or stretching force) (F) as a function of time, during the following operation: The mobile is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and then penetrates into the wax up to a depth of penetration 2 mm. When the mobile penetrated into the wax at the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s. During the relaxation time, the force (compressive force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value 0. The tights correspond to the integral of the force vs time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the stickiness is expressed in N. s.

To measure the stickiness of the wax, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 ° C. The melted wax is cast in a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. . The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before measuring the adhesive.

The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compression force measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder of a diameter of 2 mm moving at a measuring speed of 0.1 mm / s, penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To perform the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

As the tacky wax, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), particularly an alkyl 12- (12-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, may be used. C2o-C4o, of formula (I):

<Desc / Clms Page number 5>

 wherein n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1).

Also, the subject of the invention is also a care makeup composition for keratin materials comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (in particular a 12- (12-hydroxystearyloxy) ) alkyl stearate C 20 -C 40), especially of formula (I) as described above.

Such a wax is sold, for example, under the names Kester WAX K 82 P and Kester WAX K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.

The tacky wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 25% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, and more preferably from 25% to 40% by weight.

The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition may comprise a volatile solvent, chosen in particular from water, volatile organic solvents and volatile oils defined below, and mixtures thereof.

The composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, aldehydes in C2-C4.

The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight. % by weight, and preferably from 5% to 60% by weight.

 The composition according to the invention may comprise an oil or organic solvent which may in particular form a fatty phase, and in particular a continuous fat phase. The composition may be an anhydrous composition.

 For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile organic solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The solvent (s)

<Desc / Clms Page number 6>

The volatile organic compounds and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at room temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular ranging from 10 -2 to 300 mm. Hg (1.33 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm Hg (30 Pa). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than
10-2 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils containing from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also known as isoparaffins), such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity <8 centistokes (8 10-6 m / s), and having in particular from 2 to 7 atoms silicon, these silicones optionally having alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that may be used in the invention, mention may be made in particular of octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane and octamethyl. trisiloxane, decamethyltetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 65% by weight. .

<Desc / Clms Page number 7>

The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths from C 4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R 1 COOR 2 in which R 1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R 2 represents a hydrocarbon chain, especially a branched hydrocarbon chain, containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms, carbon provided that R5 + R6 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl spleen, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2- undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having 2 at 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones,

<Desc / Clms Page number 8>

 phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 50% (especially from 0.1 to 50%) by weight, preferably from 0% to 40% by weight. (especially 0.1 to 40%), relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0% to 30% by weight (in particular 0.1% to 30%).

The composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional wax, different from the sticky wax described above. The additional wax may be chosen from, for example, beeswax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil and silicone waxes.

In particular, the wax may be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion.

The additional wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight. weight, and better from 1% to 20% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty compound which is at room temperature. For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 ° to 55 ° C., preferably 25 ° to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 ° C. at 40 Pa · s (1 to 400 poise), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa · s, measured by Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. The skilled person can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric type; they may also be selected from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), in majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds which may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolines and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolin or oxypropylenated lanolin or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa s, and / or a fuse point

<Desc / Clms Page number 9>

 30 to 55 ° C. and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35 ° C. and / or viscosity at 40 ° C. of 0 ° C.). 1-40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polyvinylate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 ° C., such as stearyls. dimethicones, especially those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 45% by weight. weight, and more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition.

The composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 5% to 15%. These surfactants may be selected from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular . 347-377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen: from the nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, fatty acid and sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, especially polyoxyethylenated Ci-Ce alkyl glucose esters, and mixtures thereof.

- Among the anionic surfactants: C16-C30 fatty acids neutralized with amines, ammonia or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof.

Surfactants are preferably used to obtain an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

<Desc / Clms Page number 10>

The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40%. by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 30% by weight.

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As the acid-group-bearing monomer, unsaturated [alpha], s-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, acid can be used. itaconic acid. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethyl hexyl methacrylate and methacrylate. lauryl, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

<Desc / Clms Page number 11>

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate, and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethanes-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid
1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, acid

<Desc / Clms Page number 12>

 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from among: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is preferably used.

As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols.

As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine may be used.

The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO 3 M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH 4 + or a metal ion, for example an Na +, Li +, K + ion, Mg2 +, Ca2 +, Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulfoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition; the polymer is solubilized donations in the phase

<Desc / Clms Page number 13>

 aqueous composition. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins, such as proteins of vegetable origin, such as wheat or soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and keratin sulfonates; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, carboxymethylcellulose and quaternized cellulose derivatives; acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and malic anhydride, copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate ; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; . alginates and carrageenans; . glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; . shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; . deoxyribonucleic acid; . mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above (it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a fat-soluble polymer). For the purposes of the invention, the term "liquid fatty phase" is intended to mean a liquid fatty phase at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), composed of one or more liquid fats at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils being able to be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to at 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvi-

<Desc / Clms Page number 14>

 nylether (the alkyl group of which has 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated linear or branched hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms bonded to the carbonyl ester group) .

These copolymers may be crosslinked with the aid of crosslinking agents whose purpose may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate or divinyl dodecanedioate. , and divinyl octadecanedioate.

Examples of such copolymers include: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vi acetate Nylon / octadecylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, propionate vinyl / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2 vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% of divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, cross-linked with 0.2 % tetraalyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / stearate allyl crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

Liposoluble film-forming polymers that may also be mentioned include liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates. the alkyl radicals having from 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble homopolymers may be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, vinyl polyvinylate, lauryl poly (meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates being crosslinkable with ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight average molecular weight of from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

 As fat-soluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-alkenes.

<Desc / Clms Page number 15>

 C20, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated C1 to C8 alkyl radical such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (PV) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2 to C40 alkene and more preferably C3 to C20. By way of example of a VP copolymer that may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / acid methacrylic, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from any compound known to those skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a dyestuff such as pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet and ultramarine blue. , chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The pearlescent agents may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as titanium-coated or bismuth oxychloride-coated mica, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with, for example, ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

The fat-soluble dyes are, for example, Sudan red, D & C Red 17,
D & C Green 6, p-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11,
D & C Violet 2, D & C orange 5, yellow quinoline, annatto. The water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, disodium salt of culvert, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth, disodium salt. tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

<Desc / Clms Page number 16>

The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, plasticizers and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain a UV filter (organic filter or mineral filter, filter absorbing or reflecting ultraviolet radiation).

Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not impaired by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Examples 1 to 6 An anhydrous mascara was prepared according to the invention (example 1) and 5 mascaras not forming part of the invention (examples 2 to 6) having the following composition, using 6 different waxes: - Wax 27 g - Bentonite 5.3 g - Propylene carbonate 1.7 g - Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (65/35) (CHIMEX Mexomère PQ) 2.2 g - Vinyl polylaurate (Mexomère PP from CHIMEX) 0.7 g - Silica 0.8 g - Pigments 3.6 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qs 100 g For each composition, the viscosity and the consistency index were measured, and the stability was evaluated at 25 C.

<Desc / Clms Page number 17>

The measurement of the viscosity is carried out at 25 ° C. with a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile n 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity is observed and the rotational speed of the mobile) at a shear of 200 s-1.

The consistency index is measured with a TA-TX2i texturometer by RHEO, equipped with a cylindrical stainless steel probe 12 mm in diameter.

A cylindrical container (diameter of 35 mm and depth of 15 mm) is filled with the mascara composition to be tested and the surface of the product contained in the container is leveled to obtain a flat surface of the product. The cylindrical probe of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 10 mm.s-1 and then enters the mascara contained in the cylindrical container to a depth of 0.2 mm. The force exerted by the mascara on the probe is then measured, this force corresponding to the consistency index of the mascara, expressed in Pa.

Stability is evaluated by visual observation of the composition after two weeks storage at 25 C.

The measurement of the tack and the hardness of the wax is carried out according to the measurement method described previously in the description.

The following results were obtained:

<tb> Example <SEP> Wax <SEP> Tight <SEP> Hardness <SEP> Viscosity <SEP> Consistency <SEP> Stability
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> (N <SEP> s) <SEP> (MPa) <SEP> (Pa. <SEP> s) <SEP> (Pa)
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> 1 <SEP> Koster <SEP> 3.38 <SEP> 0.96 <SEP> 3.6 <SEP> 560 <SEP> yes
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> K <SEP> 82 <SEP> P
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> 2 <SEP> Bee <SEP> 2.02 <SEP> 3.68 <SEP> 5.9 <SEP> 1842 <SEP> Yes
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> 3 <SEP> Oil <SEP> jojoba <SEP> 0.18 <SEP> 8.62 <SE> 12.8 <SEP> 1991 <SEP> yes
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> hydrogenated
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> 4 <SEP> Oil <SEP> castor oil <SEP> 0.08 <SEP> 2.77 <SEP> Too much <SEP> thick <SEP> 22942
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> hydrogenated
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> 5 <SEP> Wax <SEP> 0.09 <SEP> 0.09 <SEP><<SEP> 1 <SEP> Too <SEP> Fluid <SEP> No
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> orange (1) <SEP> 2 <SEP> phases
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> 6 <SEP> Wax <SEP> of <SEP> 0.14 <SEP> 0.06 <SEP><<SEP> Too <SEP> Fluid <SEP> No
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> lanolin <SEP> oxy- <SEP> 2 <SEP> phases
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> propylenated
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<Tb>
<tb> (50P) <SEP> (2)
<Tb>
(1) sold by Koster Keunen

<Desc / Clms Page number 18>

 (2) EMERY 1695 of the company COGNIS It is found that the composition 1 according to the invention is stable and has the lowest viscosity and the lowest consistency. Compositions 2 and 3, although stable, have a higher viscosity and consistency than those of composition 1. Composition 4 is too thick and therefore not suitable for use on eyelashes. using a mascara brush.

The compositions 5 and 6 are not stable: they have 2 phases after two weeks of storage at 25 C.

EXAMPLE 7 A wax-in-water emulsion mascara having the following composition was prepared: sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster)
Keunen) 28 g - 2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.5 g - Triethanolamine 2.4 g - Stearic acid 5.8 g - Water-soluble nonionic polymers 4.3 g - Sodium poly (methacrylate) (Darvan 7 of the society
VANDERBILT) 0.25 g MA - Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorhydrin quaternized with trimethylamine (JR 400 from the company
CARBIDE UNION) 0.1 g - Pigments 5.4 g - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g This mascara is stable after 24 hours at room temperature. It is easy to apply and adheres well on the eyelashes. Mascara forms a smooth and homogeneous makeup, and thickens the eyelashes.

EXAMPLE 8 An anhydrous mascara having the following composition was prepared: sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster
Keunen) 27 g - Bentonite 5.3 g - Propylene carbonate 1.7 g

<Desc / Clms Page number 19>

- Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (65/35) (CHIMEX Mexomère PQ) 2.2 g - Vinyl polylaurate (CHIMEX PP Mexomere) 0.7 g - Acid oligomer stearate 12 -hydroxystearic (SOLSPERSE 21000 from AVECIA) 0.1 g - Charge 0.8 g - Pigments 4.2 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qs 100 g
This waterproof mascara adheres well on the eyelashes. It gives the eyelashes a make-up. smooth and homogeneous, very separating.

Example 9
An anhydrous mascara having the following composition was prepared: - Sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster
Keunen) 35 g - Bentonite 5.3 g - Propylene carbonate 1.7 g - Copolymer vinyl acetate / allyl stearate (65/35) (Chimex Mexomère PQ) 2.2 g - Vinyl Polylaurate (Mexomer PP of CHIMEX) 0.7 g - Stearate of the oligomer of 12-hydroxystearic acid (SOLSPERSE 21000 from AVECIA) 0.1 g - Charge 0.8 g - Pigments 4.2 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qs 100 g
This waterproof mascara adheres well on the eyelashes. It gives the lashes a smooth and homogeneous makeup and charging.

Claims (36)

 1. Makeup composition or care of keratin materials comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa. 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax has a tack ranging from 0.7 N. s to 30 N.s. 3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wax has a tack greater than or equal to 1 N. s, preferably ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N.s. 4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a tack greater than or equal to 2 N.s, preferably from 2 N.s s. at 10 N.s 5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 MPa. 6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and preferably ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa. 7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearoyloxy) stearate. 8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 25% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 25% to 40% by weight. 9. Makeup composition or care of keratin materials comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate.  10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate is present in a content ranging from 25% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 25% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 25% to 40% by weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 21> 11. Composition according to Claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the (C 2 -C 4) alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate corresponds to the following formula (I):

 wherein n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1). 12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase. 13. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase formed of water or a mixture of water and water-miscible organic solvent. 14. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the water-miscible organic solvent is chosen from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, ketones containing from 1 to 5 carbon atoms. C3-C4, C2-C4 aldehydes. 15. Composition according to one of claims 39 or 40, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 % to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight. 16. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil. 17. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. Composition according to one of Claims 16 or 17, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from from 1% to 65% by weight. <Desc / Clms Page number 22> 19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil. 20. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 40% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.1% to 30% by weight. 21. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a film-forming polymer. 22. Composition according to claim 21 and one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is solubilized in the aqueous phase. 23. Composition according to claim 21 and one of claims 16 to 20, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is solubilized in a liquid fatty phase. 24. Composition according to any one of Claims 21 to 23, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight. 25. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional wax. 26. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably from 1% to 20% by weight. 27. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a surfactant. 28. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additive chosen from dyestuffs, antioxidants, fillers, pasty fatty substances, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof. <Desc / Clms Page number 23> 29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it does not contain a UV filter. 30. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eyebrow product, eyeliner, eyeshadow, blush. , foundation, lip product, body make-up product (semi-permanent tattoo), hair make-up product. 31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara. 32. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of product for the eyebrows, eyeliner, eyeshadow, blush, bottom complexion, lip product, body make-up product (semi-permanent tattoo), hair makeup product. 33. A cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials comprising applying to the keratin materials a composition according to any one of the preceding claims. 34. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 32 to obtain a makeup of keratinous homogeneous and / or smooth materials. 35. Use of a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 Ns and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in a cosmetic composition, to obtain a homogeneous and / or smooth composition of the keratin materials and / or obtaining a stable cosmetic composition, the wax being present in a content of at least 25% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition. 36. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate having the following formula (I):

 wherein n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1).