FR2844998A1 - Cosmetic composition containing an adhesive wax and an ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s), useful in the make-up and care of keratinic material such as human skin and hair - Google Patents

Abstract

A cosmetic composition comprises an adhesive wax with an adhesion greater or equal to 0.7 N.s and hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, and an ester of dextrin and fatty acid(s), in a suitable cosmetic medium. Independent claims are also included for the cosmetic process and use of the compositions.

Description

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 The subject of the present invention is a cosmetic composition associating at least one sticky wax and one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid. It also relates to a cosmetic process for caring for or making up keratin materials using said composition.

 The composition according to the invention can be used in particular in the field of make-up or the care of keratin materials such as the skin, the eyelashes, the eyebrows, the hair and the nails of human beings. In this case, it can be in the form of mascara, eyebrow product, eyeliner, eyeshadow, blush, foundation, lip product, body makeup (semi-permanent tattoo), hair makeup product.

 More specifically, the invention relates to a mascara.

 The mascara composition can be a makeup composition, a composition to be applied to or under makeup, also called top coat or base coat, or even an eyelash treatment composition.

 Mascaras are commonly prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras, known as cream mascaras, in the form of an emulsion of waxes in water; anhydrous or low-water mascaras, known as waterproof mascaras, in the form of wax dispersions in organic solvents.

 It is known to use various waxes for the formulation of mascaras such as those described in document WO-A-91/12793, for example beeswax, candellila wax, carnauba wax, or even wax polyethylene.

 However, when the mascaras contain certain waxes in a large quantity, in particular beyond 20% by weight of the total weight of the mascara of a wax, such as carnauba wax, rice bran wax or polyethylene wax, deposition of the eyelash makeup obtained has a granular appearance, thus conferring a non-smooth and non-homogeneous makeup, defects which make the makeup unsightly.

 Recently, the inventors have demonstrated that it is possible to overcome this problem provided that a particular wax exhibiting sticky properties (high stickiness) is used. Advantageously, this wax makes it possible to obtain a cosmetic composition which is easily applied to keratin materials, having good adhesion to keratin materials and which leads to the formation of a smooth and homogeneous make-up, not having a granular appearance. .

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 In addition, such a wax can be incorporated into the composition at a content of up to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, without obtaining a solidification of the composition: the composition is stable (in particular stability after 24 hours at 25 C), remains of a creamy consistency and is easily applied to keratin materials.

 However, for certain cosmetic applications, it would be advantageous to be able to moderate the natural tackiness of this type of wax. Thus, in the particular case of formulas of the mascara type, this tacky appearance can be troublesome when it is sought in addition to obtain perfect individualization of the eyelashes.

 Unexpectedly, the inventors have found that it is possible to satisfy this additional requirement provided that said sticky wax is combined with at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid.

 More specifically, the present invention relates according to a first aspect to a cosmetic composition and in particular for making up or caring for keratin materials comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one wax having a tackiness greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and A hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa and at least one ester of dextrin and of acid (s) The present invention also relates, according to another of its aspects, to a cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate and at least one ester of dextrin and fatty acid (s).

 According to a particular variant of the invention, these cosmetic compositions are mascara compositions.

 The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic method for making up or for non-therapeutic care of keratin materials, in particular of the skin, nails, hair, eyelashes, eyebrows, comprising the application to the keratin materials of a composition as defined above.

 Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, the use of a composition as defined above for producing a make-up of keratin materials which is homogeneous and / or smooth, and in particular a make-up of the eyelashes which charges and separates.

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 Another subject of the invention is, according to another of its aspects, the use of at least one ester of dextrin and of acid (s) in a cosmetic composition containing a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, to obtain a homogeneous and / or smooth make-up of keratin materials and in particular make-up of the eyelashes, charging and separating and / or obtaining a stable cosmetic composition, the wax being present in a content of at least 10% and in particular of at least 20% by weight, and in particular of at least 25% relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The term “cosmetically acceptable medium” means a cosmetic medium compatible with keratin materials such as the eyelashes, the skin including the lips, the hair, the nails, the eyebrows.

Sticky wax
As previously specified, the wax considered according to the invention has a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

 It has a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s, in particular ranging from 0.7 N. s to 30 N. s, in particular greater than or equal to 1 N. s, in particular ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N. s, and in particular greater than or equal to 2 N. s, in particular ranging from 2 N. s to 10 Ns, in particular ranging from 2 N. s to 5 Ns

 The sticky wax has a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 MPa to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, or even ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2 , 5 MPa.

 By "wax" is meant within the meaning of the present invention, a lipophilic fatty compound, solid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), with reversible solid / liquid state change , having a melting temperature above 30 C and better still above 55 C and up to 200 C, in particular up to 120 C.

 By bringing the wax to its melting point, it is possible to make it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, the wax is recrystallized from the oils of the mixed.

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 The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 C per minute.

 To measure the stickiness of the wax, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours so that the surface of the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before measuring the tackiness.

The stickiness of the wax is measured at 20 ° C. using the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a mobile in acrylic polymer in the shape of a cone forming an angle of 45, by measuring the evolution of the force (compression force or stretching force) (F) as a function of time, during the following operation:
The mobile is moved at the speed of 0.5 mm / s and then enters the wax to a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the mobile has penetrated into the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held fixed for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) then is removed at the speed of 0.5 mm / s. During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero, then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again towards the value 0. The tights corresponds to the integral of the force curve as a function of time for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the tights is expressed in Ns

 The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive force measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measuring speed of 0.1mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3mm. To carry out the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is poured into a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours, then the wax is stored for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the compression force

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 measured maximum divided by the surface area of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

dans laquelle n est un entier allant de 18 à 38, ou un mélange de composés de formule (I). As a sticky wax, use may be made of a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or as a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate of C20-C40 alkyl, of formula (1):

in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (I).

 Also, the invention also relates to a mascara composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a (hydroxystearyloxy) C20-C40 alkyl stearate, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) C20 alkyl stearate - C4o, in particular of formula (I) as described above and at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid in particular as defined above.

 Such a wax is sold in particular under the names KESTER WAX K 82 P3 and KESTER WAX K 80 P # by the company KOSTER KEUNEN.

 The sticky wax can be present in the compositions according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, in particular from 1% to 50% by weight, in particular ranging from 10 to 40% by weight and more particularly from 15 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The combination of an ester of dextrin of acid (s) is particularly advantageous for compositions containing at least 10% and in particular at least 20% by weight of sticky wax.

Ester of dextrin and fatty acid (s)
The composition according to the invention comprises at least one ester of dextrin and of fatty acid (s).

 More particularly, it is a mono-or poly-ester of dextrin and at least one fatty acid and in particular corresponding to formula (II):

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dans laquelle : - n est un entier allant de 3 à 200, notamment allant de 20 à 150, et en particulier allant de 25 à 50, - les radicaux RI, R2 et R3, identiques ou différents, sont choisis parmi l'hydrogène ou un groupement acyle (R-CO-) dans lequel le radical R est un groupement hydrocarboné, linéaire ou ramifié, saturé ou insaturé, possédant de 7 à 29, en particulier de 7 à 21, notamment de 11 à 19, plus particulièrement de 13 à 17, voire 15, atomes de carbone, sous réserve qu'au moins un desdits radicaux R1, R2 ou R3 est différent de l'hydrogène.

in which: - n is an integer ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50, - the radicals RI, R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 7 to 29, in particular from 7 to 21, in particular from 11 to 19, more particularly from 13 with 17 or even 15 carbon atoms, provided that at least one of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen.

 In particular, R1, R2 and R3 may represent hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which R is a hydrocarbon radical as defined above, provided that at least two of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 are identical and different from hydrogen.

 All of the radicals RI, R2 and R3 can represent an identical or different and in particular identical acyl group (R-CO).

 In particular, n is advantageously varies from 25 to 50, in particular is equal to 38 in the general formula (II) of the ester according to the invention.

 In particular when the radicals R1, R2 and / or R3, which are identical or different, contain an acyl group (R-CO), these can be chosen from the caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic radicals, isobutyric, isovaleric, ethyl-2-butyric, ethyl-methylacetic, isoheptanoic, ethyl-2 hexanoic, isononanoic, isodecanoic, isotridecanoic, isomyristic, isopalmitic, isostearic, isoaracic, isohexanoic, deceneoic, dienecenoid, dodeceneic acepleic, gondoleic, eicosenoic, sorbic, linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic,

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 arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.

 Preferably, as dextrin ester and acid (s), at least one dextrin palmitate is used. This can be used alone or in admixture with other esters.

Advantageously, the dextrin and fatty acid ester has a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5 based on a glucose unit, in particular varying from 1.5 to 2.5, preferably from 2 to 2 5. The weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin ester may in particular be from 10,000 to 150,000, in particular from 12,000 to 100,000 and even from 15,000 to 80,000
Dextrin esters, in particular dextrin palmitates, are commercially available under the name RHEOPEARL TL or RHEOPEARL KL from the company Chiba Flour.

 The dextrin ester can be present in the composition according to the invention in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight, and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight, per relative to the total weight of the composition.

 Advantageously, the sticky wax and the dextrin ester are present in a content such that the weight ratio of the sticky wax relative to the dextrin ester varies from 350 to 0.1, in particular from 100 to 0.5, especially from 50 to 1, or even from 15 to 2.

Physiologically acceptable environment
The physiologically acceptable medium of the composition may comprise a volatile solvent, in particular chosen from water, volatile organic solvents and volatile oils defined below, and their mixtures.

 The composition according to the invention can comprise an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition.

 The aqueous phase can consist essentially of water; it can also comprise a mixture of water and of organic solvent miscible with water (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.) such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, C2-C4 aldehydes .

 The aqueous phase (water and optionally the organic solvent miscible with water) may be present, at a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of

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 the composition, in particular ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and in particular ranging from 5% to 60% by weight.

 The composition according to the invention may comprise an oil or organic solvent which can in particular form a fatty phase, and in particular a continuous fatty phase. The composition can be an anhydrous composition.

 By oil or volatile organic solvent is meant within the meaning of the invention any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than an hour, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and volatile oils of the invention are volatile organic solvents and cosmetic oils, liquid at room temperature, having a non-zero vapor pressure, at room temperature and atmospheric pressure, ranging in particular from 10- 2 to 300 mm of Hg (1.33 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm of Hg (30 Pa). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil which remains on the skin at room temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and in particular having a vapor pressure of less than 10-2 mm Hg (1.33 Pa).

 These oils can be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

 The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil mainly containing hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur, phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils can be chosen from hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms, and in particular branched C8-C16 alkanes such as Cg-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane ( also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane, isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names of Isopars' or Permyls, the esters branched in C8-C16 neopentanoate iso-hexyl, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell Solt by the company SHELL, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and their mixtures.

 As volatile oils, volatile silicones can also be used, such as, for example, volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 5 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m2 / s), and in particular having from 2 to 7 atoms. silicon,

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 these silicones optionally comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil which can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethyl cyclotetrasiloxane, decamethyl cyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethyl cyclohexasiloxane, heptamethyl hexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyl trisiloxane, hexamethyl disiloxane, octamethyl trisil tetrasiloxane, dodecamethyl pentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

 The volatile oil can be present in the composition according to the invention at a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, in particular from 1% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

 The composition can also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils.

As non-volatile hydrocarbon-based oil, mention may in particular be made of: - hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin such as triglycerides consisting of fatty acid and glycerol esters, the fatty acids of which can have various chain lengths from C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils are in particular the oils of wheat germ, sunflower, grapeseed, sesame, corn, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soybean, almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, squash, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passionflower, muscat rose; or the triglycerides of caprylic / capric acids such as those sold by the company Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810, 812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, - synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms; - linear or branched hydrocarbons, of mineral or synthetic origin such as petrolatum, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as parlam, squalane, and their mixtures, - synthetic esters such as oils of formula R'COOR " in which R1 represents the remainder of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a notably branched hydrocarbon chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms provided that R '+ R "is # 10, such as, for example, Purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate,

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 C12 to C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate, diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearyl isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters, fatty alcohols liquid at room temperature with branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol, 2-butyloctanol, 2undécylpentadécanol, - higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils which can be used in the composition according to the invention may be the non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), the polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenylated silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates;
The non-volatile oils can be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 50% (in particular from 0.1 to 50%) by weight, preferably from 0% to 40% by weight (in particular 0, 1 to 40%), relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0% to 30% by weight (in particular 0.1% to 30%).

 The composition according to the invention may also comprise an additional wax, different from the sticky wax described above. The additional wax can be chosen from, for example, beeswax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil, silicone waxes.

 In particular, the wax can be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion.

 The additional wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight, and better still from 1% to 20% by weight.

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 The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one fatty compound which is pasty at room temperature. By “pasty fatty substance” within the meaning of the invention is meant fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 to 55 ° C., preferably 25 to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 at 40 Pa.s (1 to 400 poises), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa.s, measured on Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz.

Those skilled in the art can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, from the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of their general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

 Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of the polymeric type; can also be chosen from silicone compounds; can also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon and / or silicone compounds. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, the pasty hydrocarbon compounds (preferably containing mainly carbon and hydrogen atoms and possibly ester groups) are preferably used, in the majority proportion.

 Among the pasty compounds which can be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolins and lanolin derivatives such as acetylated lanolins or oxypropylene lanolins or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa. s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C. and their mixtures. It is also possible to use fatty acid or alcohol esters, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of the order of 20 to 35 C and / or viscosity at 40 C ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa. S) such as tri-isostearyl or cetyl citrate; arachidylpropionate; vinyl polylaurate; cholesterol esters such as triglycerides of vegetable origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and their mixtures.

 Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS) having pendant chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 C, such as stearyl dimethicones in particular those sold by the company Dow Corning under the trade names of DC2503 and DC25514, and their mixtures.

 The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, of

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 preferably ranging from 0.5 to 45% by weight, and better still ranging from 2% to 30% by weight, in the composition.

 The composition according to the invention and more particularly in the case of mascaras in emulsion form may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still by 5% at 15%. These surfactants can be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference may be made to the document Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p. 347-377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

 The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen: - from nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, acid esters fatty and sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, in particular fatty esters of polyoxyethylene CI-C6 alkyl glucose, and their mixtures, - among anionic surfactants: C16-C30 fatty acids neutralized by amines, ammonia or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof.

 Surfactants are preferably used which make it possible to obtain an oil-in-water or wax-in-water emulsion.

 The composition according to the invention can comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

 The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, in particular from 0.5% to 40% by weight , and in particular from 1% to 30% by weight.

 In the present description, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials.

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 Among the film-forming polymers which can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and their mixtures.

 By radical film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, in particular ethylenic, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

 The film-forming polymers of the radical type may in particular be vinyl polymers or copolymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

 The vinyl film-forming polymers can result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acid group and / or esters of these acid monomers and / or amides of these acid monomers.

 As monomer carrying an acid group, unsaturated carboxylic acids [alpha], ss-ethylenic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid can be used. Preferably (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid are used, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

 The esters of acidic monomers are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C1-C30 alkyl, of preferably in Cl-C20, aryl (meth) acrylates, in particular C6-Clo aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

 Mention may be made, among alkyl (meth) acrylates, of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

 Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

 Mention may be made, among aryl (meth) acrylates, of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

 Particularly preferred esters of (meth) acrylic acid are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

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 According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, that is to say that some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

 As amides of the acid monomers, mention may, for example, be made of (meth) acrylamides, and in particular of N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular of C2-C12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, there may be mentioned N-ethyl acrylamide, N-tbutyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and N-undecylacrylamide.

 The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or from the copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

 Examples of vinyl esters that may be mentioned include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

 As styrene monomers, mention may be made of styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

 Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

 The polyurethanes can be chosen from anionic, cationic, non-ionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethanes-acrylics, poly-urethanespolyvinylpirrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether-polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and their mixtures.

 The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, in particular diols.

 The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids include: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2.2 acid -dimethylglutaric, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, acid 1,3- cyclohexanedicarboxylic, 1,4cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5- acid

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 norbornane dicarboxylic, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers can be used alone or in combination of at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

 The diol can be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic, aromatic diols.

Preferably, a diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol, triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol is used. As other polyols, glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylol propane can be used.

 The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters, by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As diamine, ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta- or paraphenylenediamine can be used. As amino alcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

 The polyester may also comprise at least one monomer carrying at least one group -SO3M, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an ammonium ion NH4 + or a metal ion, such as for example an ion Na +, Li +, K +, Mg2 +, Ca2 + , Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. It is possible in particular to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO3M.

 The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer further bearing a group -SO3M as described above can be chosen, for example, from the benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxidiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl, methylenediphenyl nuclei. As an example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer bearing, in addition, a group -SO3M: sulfoisophthalic acid, sulfoterephthalic acid, sulfophthalic acid, 4-sulfonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

 It is preferred to use isophthalate / sulfoisophthalate-based copolymers, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of di-ethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

 The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, can be chosen from shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulose polymers, and mixtures thereof.

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 According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer can be a water-soluble polymer and can be present in an aqueous phase of the composition; the polymer is therefore dissolved in the aqueous phase of the composition. As examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers, mention may be made of: - proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat, soy proteins; proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulphonic keratins, - cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose, and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized derivatives of cellulose, - acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates, - vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methyl vinyl ether and of malic anhydride, copolymer of acetate vinyl and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate; vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam copolymers; polyvinyl alcohol, - polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: - gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum, - alginates and carrageenans, - glycoaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives, - shellac resin, sandara gum, dammars, elemis, copals, - deoxyribonucleic acid, - muccopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and their mixtures.

 According to another alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer dissolved in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above (it is then said that the film-forming polymer is a liposoluble polymer ). By "liquid fatty phase" is meant, within the meaning of the invention, a fatty phase liquid at room temperature (25 C) and atmospheric pressure (760 mm Hg, or 105 Pa), composed of one or more bodies

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 fats liquid at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.

 Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally in admixture with a non-volatile oil, the oils being able to be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

 By way of example of a liposoluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly linked to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl of the ester group) and at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkylvinyl ether (in which the alkyl group contains from 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a saturated, linear or branched hydrocarbon radical, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl from the ester group).

 These copolymers can be crosslinked using crosslinking agents which have the aim which can be either of the vinyl type, or of the allylic or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

 As examples of these copolymers, mention may be made of the copolymers: of vinyl / allyl stearate, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vinyl acetate / octadecylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethylvinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate vinyl, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0 0.2% tetraallyloxyethane , vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate cross-linked with 0, 2% divinyl benzene.

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 As liposoluble film-forming polymers, mention may also be made of liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, the alkyl radicals having 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

 Such liposoluble homopolymers can be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked using divinylbenzene, diallylether or diallyl phthalate, poly (meth) acrylate stearyl, polyvinylaurate, poly (meth ) lauryl acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates be crosslinked using ethylene glycol dimethacrylate or tetraethylene glycol.

 The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; may have a weight average molecular weight ranging from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

 As liposoluble film-forming polymers which can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C2-C20 alkenes, such as polybutene, alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, saturated or unsaturated at C1 to C8 as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, vinylpyrolidone (VP) copolymers and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of C2 to C40 alkene and better of C3 to C20. By way of example of a VP copolymer which can be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, butylated polyvinylpyrolidone (PVP), VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

 The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizing agent promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizing agent can be chosen from all the compounds known to a person skilled in the art as being capable of fulfilling the desired function.

additives
The composition according to the invention can also comprise a coloring matter such as pulverulent coloring matters, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. This coloring material may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

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 The pulverulent coloring matters can be chosen from pigments and pearlescent agents.

 The pigments can be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or not. Among the mineral pigments, mention may be made of titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, zirconium, zinc or cerium oxides, as well as iron or chromium oxides, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, l hydrate of chromium and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, pigments of D & C type, and lakes based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

 The nacres can be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearly pigments such as mica titanium with iron oxides, mica titanium with in particular ferric blue or l chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

 The liposoluble dyes are for example Sudan red, D&C Red 17, D&C Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan brown, D&C Yellow 11, D&C Violet 2, D&C orange 5 , quinoline yellow, annatto. Water-soluble dyes are, for example, beet juice, methylene blue, disodium culvert salt, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth , disodium salt of tartrazine, monosodium salt of rhodamine, disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

 The composition of the invention can also comprise any additive commonly used in cosmetics such as antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, plasticizers and their mixtures.

 According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain a UV filter (organic filter or mineral filter; filter absorbing or reflecting ultraviolet radiation).

 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their amount in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or substantially not affected by the envisaged addition.

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 The composition according to the invention can be produced by known methods, generally used in the cosmetic field.

 The examples appearing below are given by way of illustration and not limit the scope of the invention.

Example 1
An anhydrous waterproof mascara was prepared having the following composition: - Sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P # from the company Koster Keunen) 32 g - Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl KL # from Chiba Flour) 5.3 g - Acetate copolymer vinyl / allyl stearate (65/35) (Mexomer PQ # from CHIMEX) 2.2 g - Polylaurate vinyl (Mexomer PP # from CHIMEX) 0.75 g - Oligomer stearate from 12-hydroxystearic acid (SOLSPERSE 21000 from AVECIA) 0.1 g - Silica 10 g - Talc 0.84 g - Pigments 4.6 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qsplOO g
The mascara is easily applied to the eyelashes and makes it possible to obtain a thick make-up of the eyelashes and not sticky: the eyelashes are well separated.

Example 2
A wax / water emulsion mascara was prepared having the following composition: - Sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P # from the company Koster Keunen) 25 g - Candellila wax 3 g - Dextrin palmitate (Rheopearl KL # from Chiba Flour) 6 g - stearic acid 5.8 g

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 - 2-amino-2-methyl-propanediol 1,3 0,5 g - triethanolamine 2,4 g - hydroxyethycellulose 0,9 g - Silica 5 g - Pigments 5,5 g - Preservatives qs - Water qsplOO g The mascara is very applicable easily on the eyelashes and allows to obtain a homogeneous deposit, charging and separating.

Claims (44)

1. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa and at least one ester of dextrin and acid (s) 2. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax has a tack ranging from 0.7 N. s to 30 N.s.  3. Composition according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wax has a tack greater than or equal to 1 N. s, in particular ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N.s.  4. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a tack greater than or equal to 2 N. s, in particular ranging from 2 s. at 10 N.s, and in particular from 2 N.s to 5 N.s.  5. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 MPa.  6. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and in particular ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.  7. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is a C20-C40 alkyl stearate (hydroxystearoyloxy) alone or as a mixture.  8. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, in particular from 1% to 50% by weight, in particular ranging from 10 % to 40% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  9. Cosmetic composition comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, at least one (C20-C40) alkyl stearate (hydroxystearyloxy) and at least one ester of dextrin and of acid (s) 10. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the (hydroxystearyloxy) C2-C4o alkyl stearate is present at a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, in particular ranging from 1% to 50% by weight, and in particular ranging from 10% to 40% by weight and better still ranging from 15% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. <Desc / Clms Page number 23>  11. Composition according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that it comprises a C20-C40 alkyl stearate (hydroxystearyloxy) corresponding to the following formula (I):

 in which n is an integer ranging from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (I).  12. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin ester and of acid (s) corresponds to formula (II):

 in which: - n is an integer ranging from 3 to 200, in particular ranging from 20 to 150, and in particular ranging from 25 to 50, - the radicals R1, R2 and R3, identical or different, are chosen from hydrogen or an acyl group (R-CO-) in which the radical R is a hydrocarbon group, linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated, having from 7 to 29 carbon atoms provided that at least one of said radicals RI, R2 or R3 is different from hydrogen.  13. Composition according to claim 12, characterized in that at least two of said radicals R1, R2 or R3 are identical and different from hydrogen. <Desc / Clms Page number 24>  14. Composition according to claim 12 or 13, characterized in that the dextrin and fatty acid ester has a degree of substitution less than or equal to 2.5 based on a glucose unit, in particular varying from 1, 5 to 2.5, and in particular from 2 to 2.5.  15. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 14, characterized in that n varies from 25 to 50 and in particular is equal to 38 in the formula (II).  16. Composition according to any one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the acyl group is chosen from the caprylic, capric, lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, arachic, behenic, isobutyric, isovaleric, 2-ethyl butyric radicals , ethyl methyl, isoheptanoic, 2-ethyl linoleic, linolenic, punicic, stearidonic, arachidonic, stearolic, and mixtures thereof.  17. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the dextrin ester and of acid (s) comprises at least dextrin palmitate.  18. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the weight-average molecular weight of the dextrin ester and of fatty acid (s) varies from 10,000 to 150,000, in particular from 12,000 to 100 000, even 15,000 to 80,000.  19. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the said ester of dextrin and of acid (s) is present in an amount ranging from 0.1 to 20%, in particular from 0.5 to 15% by weight and in particular from 1 to 10% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  20. Composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8 and 12 to 19, characterized in that the dextrin ester and of acid (s) and the sticky wax are present in a content such that the weight ratio of the sticky wax with respect to said ester varies from 350 to 0.1, in particular from 100 to 0.5, in particular from 50 to 1, or even from 15 to 2.  21. Composition according to any one of claims 9 to 19, characterized in that the ester of dextrin and of acid (s) and the (hydroxystearyloxy) alkyl stearate <Desc / Clms Page number 25>  are present in a content such that the weight ratio of the sticky wax with respect to said ester varies from 350 to 0.1, in particular from 100 to 0.5, in particular from 50 to 1, or even from 15 to 2.  22. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase.  23. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase formed of water or of a mixture of water and of organic solvent miscible with water.  24. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the organic solvent miscible with water is chosen from lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having from 2 to 8 carbon atoms, C3 ketones -C4, C2-C4 aldehydes.  25. Composition according to one of claims 23 or 24, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present at a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, in particular ranging from 3% to 80% by weight, and in particular ranging from 5% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  26. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil.  27. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil is chosen from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils and their mixtures.  28. Composition according to one of claims 26 or 27, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, in particular ranging from 1% to 65% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  29. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil.  30. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.1% to 40% by weight, in particular from 0 , 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  31. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises at least one film-forming polymer. <Desc / Clms Page number 26>  32. Composition according to claim 31 and one of claims 22 to 25, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is dissolved in the aqueous phase.  33. Composition according to claim 31 and one of claims 26 to 31, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is solubilized in a liquid fatty phase.  34. Composition according to any one of claims 31 to 33, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight, in particular ranging from 0.5% to 40 % by weight, and in particular ranging from 1% to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  35. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional wax.  36. Composition according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, in particular from 0.5% to 30% by weight, in particular from 1% to 20% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.  37. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a surfactant.  38. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additive chosen from coloring matters, antioxidants, fillers, pasty fatty substances, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof.  39. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara, eyebrow product, eyeliner, eyeshadow, blush, background complexion, lip product, body makeup product (semi-permanent tattoo), hair makeup product.  40. Composition according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it is in the form of mascara.  41. Cosmetic process for making up or non-therapeutic care of keratin materials comprising the application to keratin materials of a composition according to any one of the preceding claims.  42. Use of a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 40 for obtaining a uniform and / or smooth makeup of keratin materials. <Desc / Clms Page number 27>  43. Use according to claim 42 for obtaining a makeup that charges and separates eyelashes.  44. Use of at least one ester of dextrin and of acid (s) in a cosmetic composition containing a wax having a tackiness greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa for obtaining a homogeneous and / or smooth makeup of keratin materials and / or obtaining a stable cosmetic composition, the wax being present in a content of at least 10% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.