FR2844195A1 - Mascara useful for eyelash make-up comprises a wax with defined tack and hardness values - Google Patents

Abstract

Mascara comprises a wax with a tack of at least 0.7 N.s and a hardness of 3.5 MPa or less.

Description

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The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition of mascara comprising a tacky wax. The invention also relates to a cosmetic process for making up or treating eyelashes.

The mascara composition can be a make-up composition, a composition to be applied to a make-up, also called a top-coat, or else an eyelash treatment composition.

Mascaras are commonly prepared according to two types of formulation: aqueous mascaras, so-called cream mascaras, in the form of emulsion of waxes in water; anhydrous mascaras or low-water mascaras, in the form of dispersions of waxes in organic solvents.

It is known to use various waxes for the formulation of mascaras such as those described in document WO-A-91/12793, for example beeswax, candelilla wax, carnauba wax, or even wax. of polyethylene.

However, when the mascaras contain certain waxes such as carnauba wax, rice bran wax or polyethylene wax, the eyelash makeup obtained has a granular appearance thus conferring a non-smooth and non-homogeneous makeup, defects that make the makeup unsightly.

Furthermore, to obtain a mascara having good loading properties, that is to say obtain a thick makeup eyelashes, it is possible to incorporate in the mascara one or more waxes in a total content of greater than 25% by weight total weight of mascara. Or by using conventional waxes such as beeswax, candellila wax, or carnauba wax in these high levels, the mascara composition becomes very consistent, or even too compact, and can not be easily applied to the eyelashes. with the commonly used mascara brush applicators. The mascara too thick is deposited on the eyelashes in the form of packets and the makeup thus obtained does not have the desired smooth appearance; the makeup is not homogeneous and has an unsightly appearance.

In addition, certain waxes, such as orange wax and lanolin wax, used at contents greater than 25% by weight lead to compositions which are not sufficiently stable, especially after storage for two weeks at room temperature (25%). C): the composition is en masse (significant increase in viscosity) or has a phase shift which is observed visually with the naked eye. The composition is then inappropriate to be applied to the eyelashes.

The object of the present invention is to provide a mascara composition for obtaining a homogeneous and smooth eyelash makeup.

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Another object of the present invention is to have a mascara which is easily applied to the eyelashes, which may comprise a high level of wax and having good curing properties of the eyelashes.

Another object of the invention is to obtain a mascara which is stable, especially after storage for 24 hours at 25 C.

The inventors have discovered that such a composition can be obtained by using a particular wax having sticky properties (high tack). This wax makes it possible to obtain a mascara composition which is easily applied to the eyelashes, having good grip on the eyelashes and which leads to the formation of a smooth and homogeneous makeup, which does not have a granular appearance.

In addition, the tacky wax may be incorporated in the composition in a content of up to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, without obtaining a build-up of the composition: the composition is stable (especially stability after 24 hours at 25 ° C), remains of a creamy consistency and is easily applied to the eyelashes.

In addition, mascara makes it possible to obtain a good separation of the eyelashes: the latter are not glued together.

More specifically, the subject of the invention is a mascara composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa.

The subject of the invention is also a cosmetic process for making up or non-therapeutic care of the eyelashes, comprising applying to the eyelashes a composition as defined above.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a composition as defined above to obtain a homogeneous and / or smooth and / or thick eyelash makeup and / or a good separation of makeup eyelashes.

The subject of the invention is also the use of a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in a mascara composition, to obtain a makeup of homogeneous and / or smooth and / or thick eyelashes and / or obtain a stable mascara and / or a good separation of makeup eyelashes.

By cosmetically acceptable medium is meant a cosmetic medium compatible with the eyelashes or the skin.

The wax present in the composition according to the invention has a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s, in particular ranging from 0.7 N.s to 30 N.sub.s, preferably greater than or equal to 1 N.sub.s, especially ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N. s, and preferably higher

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 or equal to 2 N. s, especially ranging from 2 N. s to 10 N. s, and more preferably greater than or equal to 2 N. s, in particular ranging from 2 N. s to 5 N.s.

The tacky wax has a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in particular ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 MPa, preferably ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and more preferentially ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa.

For the purposes of the present invention, the term "wax" is intended to mean a lipophilic fat compound which is solid at room temperature (25 ° C.) and at atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), with a reversible solid / liquid state change. , having a melting temperature of greater than 30 ° C. and better still greater than 55 ° C. and up to 200 ° C., especially up to 120 ° C.

By bringing the wax to its melting temperature, it is possible to render it miscible with oils and to form a homogeneous mixture microscopically, but by bringing the temperature of the mixture to room temperature, a recrystallization of the wax in the oils of the mixed.

The melting point values correspond, according to the invention, to the melting peak measured using a differential scanning calorimeter (DSC), for example the calorimeter sold under the name DSC 30 by the company METLER, with a temperature rise of 5 or 10 C per minute.

The adhesive of the wax is measured at 20 ° C. by means of the texturometer sold under the name TA-TX2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a mobile device in acrylic polymer in the form of a cone forming an angle of 45, by measuring the evolution of the force (compression force or stretching force) (F) as a function of time, during the following operation: The mobile is moved at a speed of 0.5 mm / s and then enters the wax until a penetration depth of 2 mm. When the mobile penetrated the wax to the depth of 2 mm, the mobile is held stationary for 1 second (corresponding to the relaxation time) and then removed at a speed of 0.5 mm / s. During the relaxation time, the force (compression force) decreases sharply until it becomes zero and then, when the mobile is removed, the force (stretching force) becomes negative and then increases again to the value 0. The pantyhose corresponds to the integral of the force vs. time curve for the part of the curve corresponding to the negative values of the force (stretching force). The value of the sticky is expressed in N.s.

To measure the stickiness of the wax, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 10 C. The melted wax is poured into a container 25 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 C) for 24 hours so that the surface

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 the wax is flat and smooth, then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 C before measuring the adhesive.

The hardness of the wax is determined by measuring the compressive strength measured at 20 C using the texturometer sold under the name TA-XT2i by the company RHEO, equipped with a stainless steel cylinder with a diameter of 2 mm moving at the measurement speed of 0.1 mm / s, and penetrating into the wax at a penetration depth of 0.3 mm. To perform the hardness measurement, the wax is melted at a temperature equal to the melting point of the wax + 20 C. The melted wax is cast in a container 30 mm in diameter and 20 mm deep. The wax is recrystallized at room temperature (25 ° C.) for 24 hours and then the wax is kept for at least 1 hour at 20 ° C. before carrying out the hardness measurement. The hardness value is the maximum measured compressive force divided by the surface of the texturometer cylinder in contact with the wax.

dans laquelle n est un entier allant de 18 à 38, ou un mélange de composés de formule (1). As the tacky wax, a C 2 -C 4 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate (the alkyl group comprising from 20 to 40 carbon atoms), alone or in a mixture, in particular a 12- (12'-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, may be used. C20-C40 alkyl of formula (1):

wherein n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1).

Also, the subject of the invention is also a mascara composition comprising, in a physiologically acceptable medium, a C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate, in particular a C20 alkyl 12- (12-hydroxystearyloxy) stearate. -C40, especially of formula (I) as described above.

Such a wax is sold, for example, under the names Kester WAX K 82 P and Kester WAX K 80 P by the company Koster Keunen.

The tacky wax may be present in the mascara composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 50% by weight. and more preferably from 10% to 40% by weight.

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 The physiologically acceptable medium of mascara may comprise a volatile solvent, chosen in particular from water, volatile organic solvents and volatile oils defined below, and mixtures thereof.

 The mascara composition according to the invention may comprise an aqueous medium, constituting an aqueous phase, which can form the continuous phase of the composition.

The aqueous phase may consist essentially of water; it may also comprise a mixture of water and water-miscible solvent (miscibility in water greater than 50% by weight at 25 ° C.), such as lower monoalcohols having from 1 to 5 carbon atoms, such as ethanol, isopropanol, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms such as propylene glycol, ethylene glycol, 1,3-butylene glycol, dipropylene glycol, C3-C4 ketones, aldehydes in
C2-C4.

 The aqueous phase (water and optionally the water-miscible organic solvent) may be present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 3% to 80% by weight. % by weight, and preferably from 5% to 60% by weight.

 The composition according to the invention may comprise an oil or organic solvent which may in particular form a fatty phase, and in particular a continuous fat phase. The composition may be an anhydrous composition.

For the purposes of the invention, the term "volatile organic solvent or oil" means any non-aqueous medium capable of evaporating on contact with the skin in less than one hour at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure. The volatile organic solvent (s) and the volatile oils of the invention are organic solvents and volatile cosmetic oils which are liquid at ambient temperature and have a non-zero vapor pressure at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure, in particular 10-2 at 300 mm Hg (1.33 Pa to 40,000 Pa) and preferably greater than 0.3 mm Hg (30 Pa). By "non-volatile oil" is meant an oil remaining on the skin at ambient temperature and atmospheric pressure for at least several hours and having in particular a vapor pressure of less than
10-2 mmHg (1.33 Pa).

 These oils may be hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof.

 The term "hydrocarbon-based oil" means an oil containing mainly hydrogen and carbon atoms and optionally oxygen, nitrogen, sulfur and phosphorus atoms. The volatile hydrocarbon oils may be chosen from hydrocarbon-based oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms.

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 and C8-C16 branched alkanes such as C8-C16 isoalkanes of petroleum origin (also called isoparaffins) such as isododecane (also called 2,2,4,4,6-pentamethylheptane), isodecane isohexadecane, and for example the oils sold under the trade names Isopars' or permetyls, branched C8-C16 esters, isohexyl neopentanoate, and mixtures thereof. Other volatile hydrocarbon oils such as petroleum distillates, in particular those sold under the name Shell or by Shell, can also be used. Preferably, the volatile solvent is chosen from volatile hydrocarbon oils having from 8 to 16 carbon atoms and mixtures thereof.

 As volatile oils, it is also possible to use volatile silicones, for example volatile linear or cyclic silicone oils, in particular those having a viscosity of 8 centistokes (8 10-6 m / s), and especially having from 2 to 7 carbon atoms. silicon, these silicones optionally containing alkyl or alkoxy groups having from 1 to 10 carbon atoms. As volatile silicone oil that can be used in the invention, there may be mentioned in particular octamethylcyclotetrasiloxane, decamethylcyclopentasiloxane, dodecamethylcyclohexasiloxane, heptamethylhexyltrisiloxane, heptamethyloctyltrisiloxane, hexamethylisiloxane, octamethyltrisiloxane and decamethyl tetrasiloxane, dodecamethylpentasiloxane and mixtures thereof.

The volatile oil may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 1% to 65% by weight.

The composition may also comprise at least one non-volatile oil, and in particular chosen from non-volatile hydrocarbon and / or silicone oils.

Non-volatile hydrocarbon oils that may especially be mentioned include: hydrocarbon-based oils of vegetable origin, such as triglycerides consisting of esters of fatty acids and of glycerol, the fatty acids of which may have various chain lengths of C4 to C24, the latter may be linear or branched, saturated or unsaturated; these oils include wheat germ, sunflower, grape seed, sesame, maize, apricot, castor, shea, avocado, olive, soya, sweet almond, palm, rapeseed, cotton, hazelnut, macadamia, jojoba, alfalfa, poppy, pumpkin, sesame, pumpkin, rapeseed, blackcurrant, evening primrose, millet, barley, quinoa, rye, safflower, bancoulier, passiflora, muscat rose; or alternatively caprylic / capric acid triglycerides, such as those sold by Stéarineries Dubois or those sold under the names Miglyol 810,812 and 818 by the company Dynamit Nobel, synthetic ethers having from 10 to 40 carbon atoms;

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 linear or branched hydrocarbons of mineral or synthetic origin, such as petroleum jelly, polydecenes, hydrogenated polyisobutene such as Parleam, and squalane, and mixtures thereof; synthetic esters such as oils of formula R1COOR2 in which R1 represents the residue of a linear or branched fatty acid containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms and R2 represents a particularly branched hydrocarbon-based chain containing from 1 to 40 carbon atoms at provided that R5 + R6 is> 10, such as, for example, purcellin oil (cetostearyl octanoate), isopropyl myristate, isopropyl palmitate, C12-C15 alcohol benzoate, hexyl laurate diisopropyl adipate, isononyl isononanoate, 2-ethylhexyl palmitate, isostearate isostearate, octanoates, decanoates or ricinoleates of alcohols or polyalcohols such as propylene glycol dioctanoate; hydroxylated esters such as isostearyl lactate, diisostearyl malate; and pentaerythritol esters; at room temperature liquids with a branched and / or unsaturated carbon chain having from 12 to 26 carbon atoms, such as octyl dodecanol, isostearyl alcohol, oleic alcohol, 2-hexyldecanol or 2-butyloctanol, 2-undecylpentadecanol; higher fatty acids such as oleic acid, linoleic acid, linolenic acid; and their mixtures.

The non-volatile silicone oils that may be used in the composition according to the invention may be non-volatile polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMS), polydimethylsiloxanes comprising alkyl or alkoxy groups, during and / or at the end of the silicone chain, groups each having from 2 to 24 carbon atoms, phenyl silicones such as phenyl trimethicones, phenyl dimethicones, phenyl trimethylsiloxy diphenylsiloxanes, diphenyl dimethicones, diphenyl methyldiphenyl trisiloxanes, 2-phenylethyl trimethylsiloxysilicates; The non-volatile oils may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0 to 30% (especially from 0.1 to 30%) by weight, preferably from 0% to 20% by weight (in particular 0, 1 to 20%), relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 0% to 10% by weight (especially 0.1% to 10%).

The composition according to the invention may further comprise an additional wax, different from the sticky wax described above.

The additional wax may be chosen from, for example, beeswax, paraffin waxes, hydrogenated castor oil and silicone waxes.

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 The waxes (tacky wax and / or additional waxes) present in the composition may be dispersed as particles in an aqueous medium. In particular, the wax may be present in the form of a wax-in-water emulsion.

The additional wax may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 30% by weight. and better from 1% to 20% by weight.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one pasty fatty compound at room temperature. For the purposes of the invention, the term "pasty fatty substance" means fatty substances having a melting point ranging from 20 ° to 55 ° C., preferably 25 ° to 45 ° C., and / or a viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 ° C. at 40 Pa · s (1 to 400 poise), preferably 0.5 to 25 Pa · s, measured by Contraves TV or Rhéomat 80, equipped with a mobile rotating at 60 Hz. The skilled person can choose the mobile for measuring the viscosity, among the mobile MS-r3 and MS-r4, on the basis of his general knowledge, so as to be able to measure the pasty compound tested.

Preferably, these fatty substances are hydrocarbon compounds, optionally of polymeric type, they may also be chosen from silicone compounds; they may also be in the form of a mixture of hydrocarbon compounds and / or silicone. In the case of a mixture of different pasty fatty substances, use is preferably made of hydrocarbon-based pasty compounds (mainly containing carbon and hydrogen atoms and optionally ester groups), in majority proportion.

Among the pasty compounds that may be used in the composition according to the invention, mention may be made of lanolines and lanolin derivatives, such as acetylated lanolines or oxypropylenated lanolines or isopropyl lanolate, having a viscosity of 18 to 21 Pa. s, preferably 19 to 20.5 Pa.s, and / or a melting point of 30 to 55 ° C and mixtures thereof. It is also possible to use esters of fatty acids or alcohols, in particular those having 20 to 65 carbon atoms (melting point of about 20 to 35 ° C. and / or viscosity at 40 ° C. ranging from 0.1 to 40 Pa.s) such as tri-isostearyl citrate or cetyl citrate; arachidyl propionate; vinyl polylaurate; esters of cholesterol such as triglycerides of plant origin such as hydrogenated vegetable oils, viscous polyesters such as poly (12-hydroxystearic acid) and mixtures thereof.

Mention may also be made of silicone pasty fatty substances such as polydimethylsiloxanes (PDMSs) having pendent chains of the alkyl or alkoxy type having from 8 to 24 carbon atoms, and a melting point of 20-55 ° C., such as stearyl dime-

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 thicones, in particular those sold by Dow Corning under the trade names DC2503 and DC25514, and mixtures thereof.

The pasty fatty substance may be present in the composition according to the invention in a content ranging from 0.01 to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5 to 45% by weight. and more preferably from 2% to 30% by weight in the composition.

The composition according to the invention may contain emulsifying surfactants present in particular in a proportion ranging from 2 to 30% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and better still from 5% to 15%. These surfactants may be chosen from anionic or nonionic surfactants. Reference can be made to the Encyclopedia of Chemical Technology, KIRK-OTHMER, volume 22, p.333-432, 3rd edition, 1979, WILEY, for the definition of the properties and functions (emulsifier) of surfactants, in particular p.347 -377 of this reference, for anionic and nonionic surfactants.

The surfactants preferably used in the composition according to the invention are chosen: from the nonionic surfactants: fatty acids, fatty alcohols, polyethoxylated or polyglycerolated fatty alcohols such as polyethoxylated stearyl or cetylstearyl alcohols, acid esters, fatty and sucrose, alkyl glucose esters, especially polyoxyethylenated Ci-Ce alkyl glucose fatty esters, and mixtures thereof.

- Among the anionic surfactants: C16-C30 fatty acids neutralized with amines, ammonia or alkaline salts, and mixtures thereof.

Surfactants are preferably used which make it possible to obtain oil-in-water or water-in-water emulsions.

The composition according to the invention may comprise at least one film-forming polymer.

The film-forming polymer may be present in the composition according to the invention in a solids content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 0.5% to 40% by weight. weight, and better from 1% to 30% by weight.

In the present application, the term "film-forming polymer" means a polymer capable of forming on its own or in the presence of an auxiliary film-forming agent, a continuous and adherent film on a support, in particular on keratin materials such as eyelashes.

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 Among the film-forming polymers that can be used in the composition of the present invention, mention may be made of synthetic polymers, of free-radical type or of polycondensate type, polymers of natural origin, and mixtures thereof.

By radical-forming film-forming polymer is meant a polymer obtained by polymerization of unsaturated monomers, especially ethylenic monomers, each monomer being capable of homopolymerizing (unlike polycondensates).

The radical-type film-forming polymers may in particular be polymers, or copolymers, vinylic polymers, in particular acrylic polymers.

The vinyl film-forming polymers may result from the polymerization of ethylenically unsaturated monomers having at least one acidic group and / or esters of these acidic monomers and / or amides of these acidic monomers.

As acid group bearing monomer, unsaturated [alpha], ss-ethylenic carboxylic acids such as acrylic acid, methacrylic acid, crotonic acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid may be used. It is preferable to use (meth) acrylic acid and crotonic acid, and more preferably (meth) acrylic acid.

The acidic monomer esters are advantageously chosen from esters of (meth) acrylic acid (also called (meth) acrylates), in particular alkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular C 1 -C 30 alkyl, preferably C1-C20, (meth) acrylates of aryl, in particular of C6-C10 aryl, hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, in particular of C2-C6 hydroxyalkyl.

Among the alkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of methyl methacrylate, ethyl methacrylate, butyl methacrylate, isobutyl methacrylate, 2-ethylhexyl methacrylate, lauryl methacrylate, cyclohexyl methacrylate.

Among the hydroxyalkyl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of hydroxyethyl acrylate, 2-hydroxypropyl acrylate, hydroxyethyl methacrylate and 2-hydroxypropyl methacrylate.

Among the aryl (meth) acrylates, mention may be made of benzyl acrylate and phenyl acrylate.

Particularly preferred (meth) acrylic acid esters are alkyl (meth) acrylates.

According to the present invention, the alkyl group of the esters can be either fluorinated or perfluorinated, ie some or all of the hydrogen atoms of the alkyl group are substituted by fluorine atoms.

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Amides of the acidic monomers include, for example, (meth) acrylamides, and especially N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, in particular C 2 -C 12 alkyl. Among the N-alkyl (meth) acrylamides, mention may be made of N-ethyl acrylamide, N-t-butyl acrylamide, N-t-octyl acrylamide and Nundecylacrylamide.

The vinyl film-forming polymers can also result from the homopolymerization or copolymerization of monomers chosen from vinyl esters and styrene monomers. In particular, these monomers can be polymerized with acidic monomers and / or their esters and / or their amides, such as those mentioned above.

Examples of vinyl esters include vinyl acetate, vinyl neodecanoate, vinyl pivalate, vinyl benzoate and vinyl t-butyl benzoate.

Styrene monomers include styrene and alpha-methyl styrene.

Among the film-forming polycondensates, mention may be made of polyurethanes, polyesters, polyester amides, polyamides, and epoxy ester resins, polyureas.

The polyurethanes may be chosen from anionic, cationic, nonionic or amphoteric polyurethanes, polyurethane-acrylics, polyurethane-polyvinylpyrrolidones, polyester-polyurethanes, polyether polyurethanes, polyureas, polyurea-polyurethanes, and mixtures thereof.

The polyesters can be obtained, in known manner, by polycondensation of dicarboxylic acids with polyols, especially diols.

The dicarboxylic acid can be aliphatic, alicyclic or aromatic. Examples of such acids are: oxalic acid, malonic acid, dimethylmalonic acid, succinic acid, glutaric acid, adipic acid, pimelic acid, 2,2-acid. dimethylglutaric acid, azelaic acid, suberic acid, sebacic acid, fumaric acid, maleic acid, itaconic acid, phthalic acid, dodecanedioic acid, 1,3-acid, cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, 1,4-cyclohexanedicarboxylic acid, isophthalic acid, terephthalic acid, 2,5-norbornane dicarboxylic acid, diglycolic acid, thiodipropionic acid, 2,5-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid, 2,6-naphthalenedicarboxylic acid. These dicarboxylic acid monomers may be used alone or in combination with at least two dicarboxylic acid monomers. Among these monomers, phthalic acid, isophthalic acid and terephthalic acid are preferably chosen.

The diol may be chosen from aliphatic, alicyclic and aromatic diols. A diol chosen from: ethylene glycol, diethylene glycol,

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 triethylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, cyclohexane dimethanol, 4-butanediol. As other polyols, it is possible to use glycerol, pentaerythritol, sorbitol, trimethylolpropane.

The polyester amides can be obtained in a similar manner to the polyesters by polycondensation of diacids with diamines or amino alcohols. As the diamine, there can be used ethylenediamine, hexamethylenediamine, meta or para-phenylenediamine. As aminoalcohol, monoethanolamine can be used.

The polyester may further comprise at least one monomer bearing at least one -SO 3 M group, with M representing a hydrogen atom, an NH 4 + ammonium ion or a metal ion, for example an Na +, Li +, K +, Mg 2+ or Ca 2+ ion. , Cu2 +, Fe2 +, Fe3 +. In particular, it is possible to use a bifunctional aromatic monomer comprising such a group -SO 3 M.

The aromatic nucleus of the bifunctional aromatic monomer additionally carrying a group -SO 3 M as described above may be chosen for example from benzene, naphthalene, anthracene, diphenyl, oxydiphenyl, sulfonyldiphenyl and methylenediphenyl nuclei. An example of a bifunctional aromatic monomer also bearing an -SO 3 M group is sulphoisophthalic acid, sulphoterephthalic acid, sulphophthalic acid and 4-sulphonaphthalene-2,7-dicarboxylic acid.

It is preferred to use copolymers based on isophthalate / sulphoisophthalate, and more particularly copolymers obtained by condensation of diethylene glycol, cyclohexane di-methanol, isophthalic acid, sulfoisophthalic acid.

The polymers of natural origin, optionally modified, may be chosen from shellac resin, sandarac gum, dammars, elemis, copals, cellulosic polymers, and mixtures thereof.

According to a first embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a water-soluble polymer and may be present in an aqueous phase of the composition; the polymer is solubilized in the aqueous phase of the composition. Examples of water-soluble film-forming polymers that may be mentioned include: proteins such as proteins of plant origin such as wheat proteins, soy proteins, proteins of animal origin such as keratins, for example keratin hydrolysates and sulfonic keratins; cellulose polymers such as hydroxyethylcellulose, hydroxypropylcellulose, methylcellulose, ethylhydroxyethylcellulose and carboxymethylcellulose, as well as quaternized cellulose derivatives;

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 acrylic polymers or copolymers, such as polyacrylates or polymethacrylates; vinyl polymers, such as polyvinylpyrrolidones, copolymers of methylvinyl ether and of malic anhydride, the copolymer of vinyl acetate and crotonic acid, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and of vinyl acetate; copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and caprolactam; polyvinyl alcohol; polymers of natural origin, possibly modified, such as: gum arabic, guar gum, xanthan derivatives, karaya gum; . alginates and carrageenans; . glycosaminoglycans, hyaluronic acid and its derivatives; . shellac resin, sandaraque gum, dammars, elemis, copals; . deoxyribonucleic acid; . mucopolysaccharides such as chondroitin sulfate, and mixtures thereof.

According to another alternative embodiment of the composition according to the invention, the film-forming polymer may be a polymer solubilized in a liquid fatty phase comprising organic oils or solvents such as those described above (it is said that the film-forming polymer is a fat-soluble polymer ). For the purposes of the invention, the term "liquid fatty phase" means a fatty phase that is liquid at ambient temperature (25 ° C.) and atmospheric pressure (760 mmHg, ie 105 Pa), composed of one or more fatty substances. liquids at room temperature, also called oils, generally compatible with each other.

Preferably, the liquid fatty phase comprises a volatile oil, optionally mixed with a non-volatile oil, the oils may be chosen from the oils mentioned above.

As an example of a fat-soluble polymer, mention may be made of vinyl ester copolymers (the vinyl group being directly connected to the oxygen atom of the ester group and the vinyl ester having a saturated hydrocarbon radical, linear or branched, from 1 to 19 carbon atoms, linked to the carbonyl ester group) and from at least one other monomer which may be a vinyl ester (different from the vinyl ester already present), an α-olefin (having from 8 to 28 carbon atoms), an alkyl vinyl ether (the alkyl group of which contains 2 to 18 carbon atoms), or an allyl or methallyl ester (having a linear or branched, saturated hydrocarbon radical of 1 to 19 carbon atoms, bonded to the carbonyl ester group).

These copolymers may be crosslinked by means of crosslinking agents whose purpose may be either of the vinyl type, or of the allyl or methallyl type, such as tetraallyloxyethane, divinylbenzene, divinyl octanedioate, divinyl dodecanedioate, and divinyl octadecanedioate.

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Examples of such copolymers include: vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymers, vinyl acetate / vinyl laurate, vinyl acetate / vinyl stearate, vinyl acetate / octadecene, vi acetate - nyleloctadecylvinylether, vinyl propionate / allyl laurate, vinyl propionate / vinyl laurate, vinyl stearate / octadecene-1, vinyl acetate / dodecene-1, vinyl stearate / ethyl vinyl ether, vinyl propionate / cetyl vinyl ether, vinyl stearate / allyl acetate, 2,2-dimethyl-2vinyl octanoate / vinyl laurate, 2,2-dimethyl-2-allyl pentanoate / vinyl laurate, vinyl dimethylpropionate / stearate vinyl, allyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl stearate, vinyl propionate / vinyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl dimethyl propionate / vinyl laurate, crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecyl vinyl ether, crosslinked with 0.2% d tetraallyloxyethane, vinyl acetate / allyl stearate, cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene, vinyl acetate / octadecene-1 crosslinked with 0.2% divinyl benzene and allyl propionate / allyl stearate cross-linked with 0.2% divinyl benzene.

Liposoluble homopolymers, and in particular those resulting from the homopolymerization of vinyl esters having from 9 to 22 carbon atoms or of alkyl acrylates or methacrylates, may also be mentioned as liposoluble film-forming polymers, the alkyl radicals having more or less 10 to 20 carbon atoms.

Such liposoluble homopolymers may be chosen from vinyl polystearate, vinyl polystearate crosslinked with divinylbenzene, diallyl ether or diallyl phthalate, stearyl poly (meth) acrylate, polyvinylate, poly ( meth) acrylate, these poly (meth) acrylates being crosslinkable with dimethacrylate ethylene glycol or tetraethylene glycol.

The liposoluble copolymers and homopolymers defined above are known and in particular described in application FR-A-2232303; they may have a weight average molecular weight of from 2,000 to 500,000 and preferably from 4,000 to 200,000.

As liposoluble film-forming polymers that can be used in the invention, mention may also be made of polyalkylenes and in particular copolymers of C 2 -C 20 alkenes, such as polybutene, and alkylcelluloses with a linear or branched alkyl radical, whether or not saturated with C 1 to C 8, such as ethylcellulose and propylcellulose, copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone (VP) and in particular copolymers of vinylpyrrolidone and C2 to C40 alkene and better still C3 to C20. By way of example of a copolymer of VP which may be used in the invention, mention may be made of the copolymer of VP / vinyl acetate, VP / ethyl methacrylate, polyvinylpyrrolidone (PVP) butylated, VP / ethyl methacrylate / methacrylic acid, VP / eicosene, VP / hexadecene, VP / triacontene, VP / styrene, VP / acrylic acid / lauryl methacrylate.

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 The composition according to the invention may comprise a plasticizer promoting the formation of a film with the film-forming polymer. Such a plasticizer may be chosen from all compounds known to those skilled in the art as being capable of performing the desired function.

The composition according to the invention may also comprise a dyestuff such as pulverulent dyestuffs, liposoluble dyes and water-soluble dyes. This dyestuff may be present in a content ranging from 0.01% to 30% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition.

The pulverulent dyestuffs may be chosen from pigments and nacres.

The pigments may be white or colored, mineral and / or organic, coated or uncoated. Among the inorganic pigments, titanium dioxide, optionally surface-treated, oxides of zirconium, zinc or cerium, as well as oxides of iron or chromium, manganese violet, ultramarine blue, chromium hydrate and ferric blue. Among the organic pigments, mention may be made of carbon black, D & C type pigments, and lacquers based on cochineal carmine, barium, strontium, calcium, aluminum.

The nacres may be chosen from white pearlescent pigments such as mica coated with titanium or bismuth oxychloride, colored pearlescent pigments such as titanium mica with iron oxides, titanium mica with ferric blue or chromium oxide, titanium mica with an organic pigment of the aforementioned type as well as pearlescent pigments based on bismuth oxychloride.

Liposoluble dyes are, for example, Sudan Red, D & C Red 17, D & C Green 6, (3-carotene, soybean oil, Sudan Brown, D & C Yellow 11, D & C Violet 2, D & C Orange 5 , quinoline yellow, annatto The water-soluble dyes are for example beet juice, methylene blue, disodium salt of culvert, disodium salt of alizarin green, quinoline yellow, trisodium salt of amaranth , the disodium salt of tartrazine, the monosodium salt of rhodamine, the disodium salt of fuchsin, xanthophyll.

The composition of the invention may furthermore comprise any additive usually used in cosmetics, such as antioxidants, fillers, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners, vitamins, and mixtures thereof.

According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the composition does not contain a UV filter (organic filter or mineral filter, filter absorbing or reflecting ultraviolet radiation).

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 Of course, those skilled in the art will take care to choose any additional additives and / or their quantity in such a way that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the invention are not or not substantially impaired by the addition envisaged.

The composition according to the invention can be manufactured by known methods, generally used in the cosmetics field.

The invention is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.

Examples 1 to 6 An anhydrous mascara was prepared according to the invention (example 1) and 5 mascaras not forming part of the invention (examples 2 to 6) having the following composition, using 6 different waxes: - Wax 27 g - Bentonite 5.3 g - Propylene carbonate 1.7 g - Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (65/35) (CHIMEX Mexomère PQ) 2.2 g - Vinyl polylaurate (Mexomère PP from CHIMEX) 0.7 g - Silica 0.8 g - Pigments 3.6 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qs 100 g For each composition, the viscosity and the consistency index were measured, and the stability was evaluated at 25 C.

The measurement of the viscosity is carried out at 25 C with a RHEOMAT RM 180 viscometer equipped with a mobile n 4, the measurement being carried out after 10 minutes of rotation of the mobile (time at which a stabilization of the viscosity and the viscosity are observed. rotational speed of the mobile), at a shear rate of 200 s-1.

The measurement of the consistency index is carried out with a TA-TX2i texturometer by the company RHEO, equipped with a cylindrical stainless steel probe 12 mm in diameter.

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A cylindrical container (diameter of 35 mm and depth of 15 mm) is filled with the mascara composition to be tested and the surface of the product contained in the container is leveled to obtain a flat surface of the product. The cylindrical probe of the texturometer is moved at a speed of 10 mm.s-1 and then enters the mascara contained in the cylindrical container to a depth of 0.2 mm. The force exerted by the mascara on the probe is then measured, this force corresponding to the consistency index of the mascara, expressed in Pa.

The stability is evaluated by visual observation of the composition after two weeks of storage at 25 C.

The measurement of the tack and the hardness of the wax is carried out according to the measurement method described previously in the description.

The following results were obtained:

<Tb>
<tb> Example <SEP> Wax <SEP> Tight <SEP> Hardness <SEP> Viscosity <SEP> Consistency <SEP> Stability
<tb> (N <SEP> s) <SEP> (MPa) <SEP> (Pa. <SEP> s) <SEP> (Pa)
<tb> 1 <SEP> Koster <SEP> 3.38 <SEP> 0.96 <SEP> 3.6 <SEP> 560 <SEP> yes
<tb> K <SEP> 82 <SEP> P
<tb> 2 <SEP> Bee <SEP> 2.02 <SEP> 3.68 <SEP> 5.9 <SEP> 1842 <SEP> Yes
<tb> 3 <SEP> Oil <SEP> jojoba <SEP> 0.18 <SEP> 8.62 <SE> 12.8 <SEP> 1991 <SEP> yes
<tb> hydrogenated
<tb> 4 <SEP> Oil <SEP> castor oil <SEP> 0.08 <SEP> 2.77 <SEP> Too much <SEP> thick <SEP> 22942
<tb> hydrogenated
<tb> 5 <SEP> Wax <SEP> 0.09 <SEP> 0.09 <SEP><<SEP> 1 <SEP> Too <SEP> Fluid <SEP> No
<tb> orange (1) <SEP> 2 <SEP> phases
<tb> 6 <SEP> Wax <SEP> of <SEP> 0.14 <SEP> 0.06 <SEP><<SEP> 1 <SEP> Too much <SEP> fluid <SEP> No
<tb> lanolin <SEP> oxy- <SEP> 2 <SEP> phases
<tb> propylenated
<tb> (5OP) <SEP> (2)
<Tb>
(1) sold by the company Koster Keunen (2) EMERY 1695 of the company COGNIS It is noted that the composition 1 according to the invention is stable and has the lowest viscosity and the lowest consistency. The compositions 2 and 3, although stable, have a higher viscosity and consistency than those of the composition 1. The composition 4 is too thick and is therefore not suitable for being applied to the eyelashes using a brush to mascara.

The compositions 5 and 6 are not stable: they have 2 phases after two weeks of storage at 25 C.

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EXAMPLE 7 A wax-in-water emulsion mascara having the following composition was prepared: sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster)
Keunen) 28 g - 2-Amino-2-methyl-1,3-propanediol 0.5 g - Triethanolamine 2.4 g - Stearic acid 5.8 g - Water-soluble nonionic polymers 4.3 g - Sodium poly (methacrylate) (Darvan 7 of the society
VANDERBILT) 0.25 g MA - Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorhydrin quaternized with trimethylamine (JR 400 from the company
CARBIDE UNION) 0.1 g - Pigments 5.4 g - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g This mascara is stable after 24 hours at room temperature. It is easily applied and adheres well on the eyelashes. The mascara forms a smooth and homogeneous makeup, and thickens the eyelashes.

EXAMPLE 8 An anhydrous mascara having the following composition was prepared: sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster
Keunen) 27 g - Bentonite 5.3 g - Propylene carbonate 1.7 g - Vinyl acetate / allyl stearate copolymer (65/35) (CHIMEX Mexomère PQ) 2.2 g - Vinyl polylaurate (Mexomère PP of CHIMEX) 0.7 g - Stearate of the oligomer of 12-hydroxystearic acid (SOLSPERSE 21000 from AVECIA) 0.1 g - Silica 0.8 g - Pigments 4.2 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qs 100 g

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This waterproof mascara adheres well on the eyelashes. It gives the eyelashes a smooth and homogeneous makeup, very separating.

Example 9 An anhydrous mascara was prepared having the following composition: - Sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster Company
Keunen) 35 g - Bentonite 5.3 g - Propylene carbonate 1.7 g - Copolymer vinyl acetate / allyl stearate (65/35) (Chimex Mexomère PQ) 2.2 g - Vinyl Polylaurate (Mexomer PP of CHIMEX) 0.7 g - Stearate of the oligomer of 12-hydroxystearic acid (SOLSPERSE 21000 from AVECIA) 0.1 g - Silica 0.8 g - Pigments 4.2 g - Preservatives qs - Isododecane qs 100 g This waterproof mascara adheres well on the eyelashes. It gives the lashes a smooth and homogeneous makeup and charging.

EXAMPLE 10 A wax-in-water emulsion mascara having the following composition was prepared: sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster)
Keunen) 15 g - Beeswax 10 g - Amino-2-methyl-2-propanediol-1,3 0,5 g - Triethanolamine 2,4 g - Stearic acid 5.8 g - Water-soluble nonionic polymers 4.3 g - Sodium Polymethacrylate (Darvan 7 of the company
VANDERBILT) 0.25 g MA - Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorhydrin quaternized with trimethylamine (JR 400 from the company
CARBIDE UNION) 0.1 g

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 - Pigments 5.4 g - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g This mascara adheres well on the eyelashes. The makeup is smooth and homogeneous.

EXAMPLE 11 A wax-in-water emulsion mascara having the following composition was prepared: sticky wax (Kester Wax K 82 P from Koster)
Keunen) 10 g - Beeswax 5 g - Amino-2-methyl-2-propanediol-1,3 0,5 g - Triethanolamine 2,4 g - Stearic acid 5,8 g - Water-soluble nonionic polymers 4.3 g - Sodium Polymethacrylate (Darvan 7 of the company
VANDERBILT) 0.25 g MA - Hydroxyethylcellulose crosslinked with epichlorhydrin quaternized with trimethylamine (JR 400 from the company
CARBIDE UNION) 0.1 g - Pigments 5.4 g - Preservatives qs - Water qs 100 g This mascara is easy to apply on eyelashes and eyelash makeup is smooth and homogeneous.

Claims (33)

 1. Mascara comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N.s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa. 2. Mascara according to claim 1, characterized in that the wax has a tack ranging from 0.7 N. s to 30 N.s. 3. Mascara according to claim 1 or 2, characterized in that the wax has a tack greater than or equal to 1 N. s, preferably ranging from 1 N. s to 20 N.s. 4. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a tack greater than or equal to 2 N. s, preferably from 2 N. s. at 10 N.s 5. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.01 to 3.5 MPa. 6. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax has a hardness ranging from 0.05 MPa to 3 MPa, and preferably ranging from 0.1 MPa to 2.5 MPa. 7. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is a (C 2 -C 4) alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate. 8. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the wax is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from % to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight. 9. Mascara comprising, in a cosmetically acceptable medium, a (C 2 -C 4) alkyl (hydroxyl-aryearyloxy) stearate. 10. Mascara according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate is present in a content ranging from 0.5% to 60% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 5% to 50% by weight, and preferably ranging from 10% to 40% by weight.  11. Mascara according to claim 9 or 10, characterized in that the C20-C40 alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate has the following formula (I): <Desc / Clms Page number 22>  wherein n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (1).

12. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase. 13. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an aqueous phase formed of water or a mixture of water and water-miscible organic solvent. 14. Mascara according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the water-miscible organic solvent is selected from lower monoalcohols having 1 to 5 carbon atoms, glycols having 2 to 8 carbon atoms, ketones in C3-C4, C2-C4 aldehydes. 15. Mascara according to one of claims 39 or 40, characterized in that the aqueous phase is present in a content ranging from 1% to 95% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably from 3 % to 80% by weight, and preferably ranging from 5% to 60% by weight. 16. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a volatile oil. 17. Mascara according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the volatile oil is selected from hydrocarbon oils, silicone oils, or mixtures thereof. 18. Mascara according to one of claims 16 or 17, characterized in that the volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 98% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 1% to 65% by weight.  19. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a non-volatile oil. <Desc / Clms Page number 23> 20. Mascara according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the non-volatile oil is present in a content ranging from 0.1% to 30% by weight, preferably from 0.1% to 20% by weight, relative to to the total weight of the composition, and more preferably from 0.1% to 10% by weight. 21. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a film-forming polymer. 22. Mascara according to claim 21 and one of claims 12 to 15, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is solubilized in the aqueous phase. 23. Mascara according to claim 21 and one of claims 16 to 20, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is solubilized in a liquid fatty phase. 24. Mascara according to any one of claims 21 to 23, characterized in that the film-forming polymer is present in a dry matter content ranging from 0.1% to 60% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably ranging from 0.5% to 40% by weight, and preferably ranging from 1% to 30% by weight. 25. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additional wax. 26. Mascara according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the additional wax is present in the mascara in a content ranging from 0.1% to 50% by weight, relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0, 5% to 30% by weight, and more preferably 1% to 20% by weight. 27. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises a surfactant. 28. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that it comprises an additive chosen from dyestuffs, antioxidants, fillers, pasty fatty substances, preservatives, perfumes, neutralizers, thickeners. , vitamins, coalescing agents, plasticizers, and mixtures thereof. 29. Mascara according to any one of the preceding claims, characterized in that the composition does not contain a UV filter. <Desc / Clms Page number 24> 30. A cosmetic process for makeup or non-therapeutic care of the eyelashes, comprising applying to the eyelashes a mascara according to any one of the preceding claims. 31. Use of a mascara according to any one of the preceding claims to obtain a homogeneous and / or smooth and / or thick eyelash makeup and / or a good separation of makeup eyelashes. 32. Use of a wax having a tack greater than or equal to 0.7 N. s and a hardness less than or equal to 3.5 MPa, in a mascara composition, obtaining a homogeneous and / or smooth eyelash makeup and / or or thick and / or obtain a stable mascara and / or a good separation of makeup eyelashes. 33. Use according to the preceding claim, characterized in that the wax is a (C 2 -C 4) alkyl (hydroxystearyloxy) stearate having the following formula (1):

 wherein n is an integer from 18 to 38, or a mixture of compounds of formula (I).