FR2780886A1 - Topical cosmetic composition useful for treatment of dry skin by renewal of stratum corneum - Google Patents

Abstract

A topical composition contains a synergistic combination of a ceramide, an essential fatty acid and a vitamin A compound.

Description

The present invention relates to a composition for topical use, for the

  treatment of dry or prone to dry skin. The normal stratum corneum of an epidermis is a tiling of cells whose cohesion is ensured by the intercorneocytic cement. Maintaining hydration

  cutaneous depends on the hydrophilicity of the epidermal cells as well as on the intercorneocyte cement. The hydrophilicity of epidermal cells is linked to the existence in the epidermis and its surface, of specific hydration factors called NMF ("Natural Moisturizing Factors").

  These agents collect water from the outside to the inside of the epidermal cells. On the other hand, the intercellular cement constitutes a lipid barrier15 which contributes to the regulation of water flow. This film is sometimes called a hydrolipid film.

  There are many cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions on the market intended to treat dry or prone to dry skin. To do this, they contain humectant active ingredients such as polyols and cutaneous NMF factors such as urea, acid

  carboxylic pyrrolidone, amino acids, sugars, alpha hydroxy acids. Hydrophobic film formers, such as vegetable oils, which inhibit transcutaneous water loss, are also commonly used in these compositions.

  All these compositions have at best a hydrating effect limited in time, because they do not

  help only temporarily improve the hydration rate of the stratum corneum of the epidermis.

  In certain particularly difficult cases, the above-mentioned compositions do not make it possible to hydrate

  the epidermis, or even temporarily cause its dehydration, including in a hydrated atmosphere.

  From these observations, and following significant research, the Applicant has discovered that maintaining the hydrated state of the epidermis depended in practice on the renewal of the stratum corneum, or stratum5 corneum, and not on the fixable water supply to cells

  epidermal, and / or the placement of an occlusive film.

  On the basis of this particularly unexpected result, the Applicant is interested in compositions making it possible to renew the epidermal tissue in depth. Such a composition was then found, for topical use, in the synergistic combination of at least one ceramide, at least one essential fatty acid, and at least one vitamin A compound. Such a composition in fact allows a self-maintenance of the keratolytic cycle, bringing to this

  last an appropriate substrate. A composition according to the invention provides self-

  regeneration of the epidermal tissue, by the synergy observed in the medium term, and not immediate, between the

  keratolysis on the one hand, and epidermal tissue re-structuring on the other.

  In total, with a composition according to the present invention, the fabric is constantly renewed

  epidermal, which maintains or even improves its organization, while ensuring its freshness.

  Other characteristics, aspects and advantages of the present invention will appear on reading the

  detailed description to follow.

  The ceramides of the stratum corneum consist of 6 fractions, chromatographically distinct, having a different polarity according to their degree of unsaturation (which can be zero) or of hydroxylation of their chains, their length and their number. According to their chemical configuration 3, they are listed in class I, II, III, IV, VIa and VIb. According to a particularly preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a ceramide of type III, or of type VI, in particular with a proportion by weight of between 0.001 and 5% relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between

  0.01 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.

  The essential fatty acid can be introduced into a composition according to the invention, in the form of vegetable oil, rich in essential fatty acid, such as for example a soybean oil, sunflower oil, walnut, borage, evening primrose, of grape seed. According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the essential fatty acid is chosen from the group consisting of a or y linolenic acids, a linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, EPA acid, DHA acid. The essential fatty acid can also be contained in a phospholipid. According to a particularly preferred embodiment of the invention, a phospholipid is used in a weight proportion of between 0.02 and 10% relative to the total weight, and preferably between 0.05 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition. By "vitamin A compound" is meant vitamin

  A, any precursor, or any derivative thereof.

  The vitamin A compound used in the composition according to the present invention can be chosen from the group consisting of retinol, vitamin A acetate and vitamin A palmitate. According to a particularly preferred mode of the present invention, palmitate is used of vitamin A, in particular in a proportion of between 0.01 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.05 and 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the

composition.

  The composition according to the invention can be in all the galenical forms conventionally used in cosmetic or dermatological compositions, for topical use. The compositions according to the invention can also contain all the constituents conventionally used in cosmetic compositions and / or dermatological. The compositions according to the invention may also contain active principles conventionally used in cosmetic and / or dermatological compositions other than ceramides, essential fatty acids, vitamin compounds A. Concrete examples, but in no way limitative,

  illustrating the invention, will now be given.

  Example 1: Sucrose stearate 0.5-6% Sucrose distearate 0.5-6% 20 Caprylic / capric triglyceride 3-15% Caprylic / capric / succinic triglyceride 3-15% Ceramide III 0.05-1% Palmitate d ascorbyle 0.01-0.1% Tocopheryl acetate 0.05-1% 25 Urea 0.5-2% Calcium chloride 0.05-0.5% Magnesium chloride 0.05-0.5% Serine 0.2-2% Glycerin 0.5-3% 30 Citric acid 0.1-05% Trisodium citrate 0.5-1.5% Vitamin A palmitate 0.1-2% Phospholipids 0.1-0.4 % Superoxide dismutase 0.5-2% 35 Sodium hyaluronate 0.5-3% Potassium sorbate 0.2-0.5%

  Sclerotium gum 0.1-0.5% Xanthan gum 0.1-0.5% Water qs. 100% 5 Perfume qs. Preservatives qs.

Example 2:

  Phospholipids 3% Ceramide III 0.1% Vitamin A palmitate 0.1 to 1% Steareth-20 0.2% Methylparaben 0.25% Calcium chloride 0.01% 15 Magnesium chloride 0.01% Water qs. 100 % Steareth-2 1 3% Cetyl stearyl alcohol 2 4% Myristyl myristate 2 4% 20 Isopropyl myristate 4% Glycerin 1% Dimethicone 0.5% Lanolin alcohols 0.5% Propylparaben 0.25% 25 Example 3: Oleate sorbitan 3.5% Polysorbate 80 2 4% Wheat germ oil 3% 30 Sweet almond oil 5% Isopropyl myristate 12% Phospholipids 0.5% Ceramides III 0.1% Polyacrylamide & C14-13 isoparaffin & laureth-7 2 3.5% Vitamin A palmitate 0.1 to 1% 6 Tocopherol 0.05% PCANa 0.5% Sodium hyaluronate 0.1% Water qs. 100% 5 Preservatives qs Fragrance qs A composition according to the The present invention is characterized in particular by the fact that it comprises practically no active humectant compound of the epidermis, in particular a hydrophilic film-forming compound, by

  for example a collagen or carboxymethylcellulose, or else a hydroscopic substance, for example a polyol; and / or that it comprises practically no hydrophobic film-forming agent, for example a silicone or a vegetable oil.

Claims (6)

  1- Composition for topical use, characterized in that it comprises a synergistic combination of a ceramide, an essential fatty acid, and a vitamin compound A. 2- Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that it comprises practically no active compound which moistens the epidermis, in particular a hydrophilic film-forming compound, for example a collagen or carboxymethylcellulose, or else a substance   hydroscopic, for example a polyol.   3- Composition according to claim 1, character-   laughed at in that it comprises practically no hydrophobic agent, for example a silicone or a vegetable oil.   4. Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the ceramide is of type III or of type VI, in particular with a content of between 0.001 and 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and   preferably between 0.01 and 1%.   - Composition according to Claim 1, characterized in that the essential fatty acid is chosen from the group consisting of α or y linolenic acid,   linoleic acid, arachidonic acid, EPA acid, DHA acid.   6- Composition according to claim 1, characterized in that the essential fatty acid is contained in a phospholipid.   7- Composition according to claim 6, charac-   terized in that the phospholipid content is between 0.02 and 10% by weight relative to the total weight of   the composition, and preferably between 0.05 and 5%.   8- Composition according to claim 1, charac-   terized in that the vitamin A compound is vitamin A palmitate, in particular with a content of between 0.01 and 3% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.05 and 1%. - Cosmetic product, or dermatological drug, in particular for treating skin   dry, comprising a composition according to any one of claims 1 to 8.