FR2774559A1 - Cutting garment sections from layered fabrics - Google Patents

Abstract

The invention concerns the production of textile parts having several layers of mutually seam bonded fabrics and cut out along predetermined outlines and/or patterns. The method consists in stacking the fabric layers to be assembled and applying thereto a guided laser radiation, such that it ensures a cutting along the outlines and/or patterns of the stacked fabric layers and seam bonding with one another the stacked fabric layers using a laser radiation for melting the intervening bonding material and at least part of the fibres of at least one of the fabrics forming said stacked layers.

Description

 The present invention relates to the production of clothes and pieces of clothing, made of synthetic and / or natural fabrics. It relates more particularly to the making of clothes or pieces of clothing comprising at least two layers of superposed fabrics, held one against the other, advantageously by gluing.

 It is known to laminate layers of fabrics, for example by heat sealing by means of a double-sided adhesive layer interposed between two layers of fabrics and pressing of the assembly thus formed.

 It is also known to cut out pieces of fabric from parts of clothing and / or patterns intended to adorn clothing, with the constraint that the pieces and / or patterns thus individualized must be embroidered to be attached to the garment to which they are intended and must be hemmed to prevent them from fraying, as well as to hide irregularities in the cuts.

 These operations require handling and completion time, which increase the cost. The quality of the pieces of clothing obtained also leaves something to be desired. In addition, the bonding of pieces or patterns applied to parts of clothing prepared separately requires extreme care in the positioning of the pieces or patterns thus applied, making manual execution and / or manual control compulsory, and obliging to limit oneself to low production rates.

 We have now found that it is possible to completely or partially exempt from these constraints and however to produce garments or parts of garments formed from several layers of fabric, comprising contours and / or patterns cut with very high precision and having effective joining of the layers together, by combining, according to the invention, a bonding of the layers of fabrics to each other and / or with layers of sticky material and / or added brazing material, with laser cutting according to predefined contours.

 The first object of the invention is a method for making parts or pieces of clothing having several layers of fabric welded together and cut according to predefined contours and / or patterns, in which the layers of fabric to be joined are superimposed and we apply to them a guided laser radiation, such as it ensures a cutting according to contours and / or patterns of the superimposed tissue layers and the superposed tissue layers are welded together by means of laser radiation ensuring the fusion of an interposed bonding material and / or at least a portion of the fibers of at least one of the fabrics forming said superimposed layers.

 The invention also relates to means for the implementation of said method. These means essentially comprise a combination of means for the application of laser radiation on layers of synthetic and / or natural fabrics, so as to provide a cutting of at least some of the layers of superimposed fabrics, with means for the making a weld of at least some of the layers of fabric together and / or with bonding materials and / or solder interposed between said layers of tissue and / or attached thereto.

 Another object of the invention consists of garments and garment pieces obtained by the above process or with the aforementioned means.

 In the method according to the invention, the superimposed fabrics for producing garments or parts and / or pieces of garments are bonded before, during and / or after the application of the laser cutting radiation, according to bonding zones or lines. predefined, advantageously corresponding to the laser cutting lines of the layers of tissue to be cut according to predefined paths and / or contours.

 A particularly advantageous embodiment of this method corresponds to the practically simultaneous carrying out of the cutting and welding operations, preferably under the effect of the application of a single laser radiation.

 Although not wishing to be bound by any theory, it is believed that the energy of laser radiation, if it is properly applied and dosed, cuts out the layers of superimposed tissue and fuses the fusible materials that compose them, in the energetic conditions provided by said radiation.

 In the present patent application, the term “laser” is understood to mean any power laser capable of producing cuts from fabrics of various materials. A person skilled in the art is capable of determining the types of lasers and of materials for their production and their application which are suitable for this purpose, as well as the existing materials and / or the improvements which should be made to them in order to achieve application of laser radiation suitable for implementing the invention. By way of example, the lasers used may include traditional laser sources or may consist of a battery of power laser diodes, each composed of a stack of elementary sources, the bars, and of a convergence optic. Said bars are made by depositing a series of epitaxial micro-layers on the surface of a plate of gallium arsenide, which is a semiconductor material. This constitutes a so-called "p-n" junction, which is an element capable of emitting laser radiation when it is energized.

 For the implementation of the method according to the invention, at least one laser radiation displaceable is applied according to an orthonormal axis system, facing a plane, preferably horizontal, on which is placed or moves, continuously or batchwise, the multilayered set of fabrics to be treated. The displacement of the laser radiation (s) is advantageously carried out according to pre-established paths. In practice, the laser radiation is directed substantially perpendicular to the mean plane of the tissues to be treated, but it is also possible to direct said laser radiation at an angle defined with this plane, if desired.

 A person skilled in the art is capable of evaluating, if necessary after a few routine tests, which values or ranges of values should be given to the parameters for defining the laser radiation in order to achieve the desired results, namely welding and / or cutting. along the lines of the laser radiation displacement trace. These parameters are in particular the strength of the laser radiation generator, its orientation (for example its direction perpendicular to the plane of the tissues to be treated or slightly inclined vertically to this plane), its speed of movement, the thickness of the laser beam, as well as the pressure with which the application of said radiation takes place on the material to be treated.

 The width of the beam determines the thickness of the molten line, that is to say the amount of tissue material caused to undergo laser radiation.

 According to a preferred embodiment, these operations are favored by applying a pressure of the tissues between them and on their common support, advantageously by a suction below the tissue support plane and / or by a blowing above this plane, as close as possible to the laser radiation. By appropriately controlling the aspiration of air under the laser radiation, through the layers of tissue, the penetration of the laser into the materials is favored and the homogeneity of the weld line is improved.

 In the method according to the invention, the set of operations provides an overall result greater than the sum of the individual effects of each operation taken in isolation, in particular by the fact that the operating phases implemented cooperate with one another and / or allow the realization of unusual variants of existing products or original products themselves, as will be shown later.

 The materials constituting the fabrics to be treated or included in the composition thereof and to which the process according to the present invention can be applied are chosen from synthetic fabrics and / or natural fabrics and can be added to them if necessary one or several materials and / or coating layers involved in the welding phase. The fabrics concerned can be woven, knitted or non-woven. On the basis of experience and knowledge acquired in the field, polyester fabrics and spacers based on polyester adhesive are currently preferred, as well as polyamide fabrics, possibly combined with a polyamide adhesive. However, it has already been determined that a polyester adhesive is also very well received between two polyamide fabrics, among others.

 In the case where at least one of the fabrics is a non-synthetic fabric capable of fraying after laser cutting, this is preferably carried out under the conditions ensuring almost simultaneously the welding in accordance with the process according to the invention, because in this case the plastic material and / or the resin present in the synthetic material is melted along the cutting lines and consequently can flow in the fibers and cause an additional resistance against the risk of fraying. We can even create, thanks to this form of plasticization and / or by coating a transparent film, a new kind of decoration on textile: after cutting patterns with laser or by simple traditional cold cutting in natural fabric , these patterns are applied by laminating, or else by heat-bonding, on a fabric of indifferent composition, the whole is laminated (or a transparent film is applied as indicated above) on one of the faces of the fabric containing risks of fraying.

 Apart from the nature of the textile fibers concerned, the texture of the threads, the type of weaving, the finishing of the fabric, etc. also play a role in the said process.

This may result in a selective choice, with a view to obtaining improved results, of a type of interlayer providing the bonding and / or brazing material, as well as the composition and / or properties of the element. interlayer to be used as an option, as mentioned above.

 The laminating to be carried out according to the invention can be carried out by adding one or more layers of interlayer glue or another material or composition with a tacky effect for the fibers of the fabrics chosen, such as for example at least one foam or one synthetic or artificial material, advantageously having, in addition to a sticky property, the property of fusing with the thickness or thicknesses of fabric with which it comes into contact. The welding interlayer (s) used can thus create a solder with fabrics which are poorly welded together.

 The fabrics to be cut / welded can also be pre-coated. In the case of coating of a synthetic or artificial product, even on non-synthetic or non-artificial fabrics, laser radiation welds the coating materials together if they are presented face to face at the time of application of laser radiation, or face to face against a foam or a material allowing the production of a solder as defined above.

 In the case of coated non-synthetic fabrics, the laser radiation strength, speed, beam and pressure defined above must be adjusted so as to optimize the cutting / burning of non-synthetic fibers and the cutting / welding of the coating layers provided between at least some of the fabric layers.

 For the practical implementation of the method according to the invention, the materials to be cut / welded can be presented in flat, multilayer panels, or by simultaneous unwinding from several rolls of fabric to form a multilayer intended to be cut.

 In the case of continuous unrolling of several rolls of fabrics, of glue in rolls and / or of foams in rolls, for the supply and the constitution of a multilayer of fabrics to which the process according to the invention is then applied, independent unwinders should be used, with tension control separately for each roll, so as to avoid the formation of bubbles, as well as unwanted offsets between the layers. It should be noted that the winding of several fabrics and spacers together, beforehand, would not be entirely satisfactory, because during the unwinding of the top fabric would necessarily be more and more out of step with respect to the other layers.

 This drawback is also encountered in the case of pieces of fabric cut / glued in the traditional way and which are then laminated, for example for thermal lamination: it is difficult to prevent the thicknesses from shifting in the flat or cylinder press. The technique according to the invention avoids this drawback.

 For the implementation of the method according to the present invention, it is necessary to have a calender gluing machine with a heating mat, a cutting table with controlled laser radiation, such as that used for the precut of pawns for embroidery or a laser table. of the type used to cut flat metal sheets, as well as computer equipment with artistic and industrial drawing software, and optional independent unwinders with variable and independent voltages to power the laser table, and at its output a variable tension reel or in a cradle.

 The invention therefore also relates to equipment for implementing the method according to the invention and essentially comprising a calender gluing machine with heating mat, a cutting table with controlled laser radiation, as well as computer equipment with artistic drawing software. and industrial, and optional independent unwinders with variable and independent voltages to power the laser table, and at its output a variable voltage reel or in a cradle.

 In a continuous operating mode of the laser table, provision is made to preferably replace the flat part of this table with a field in which the fabric (or the multilayer of fabrics) is held taut between two pairs of cylinders1 called Npullersn, so that the cut piece or pieces, hereinafter called "pawns", are not in contact with any other textile material when the laser radiation is being worked. It is then in this field stretched by a differential between the two "pullers" n or by a total independence between them, that the laser beam proceeds to cut the pieces of predefined shapes and sizes. The displacement of the multilayer fabric can be sequential (field by field) or continuously if the laser beam displacement software integrates the displacement of the field to be cut. In this embodiment, where the fabric is not in contact with anything but simply stretched at the time of cutting, it is possible to evacuate the pieces or pieces cut and / or the waste, by means of efficient suction. This also has the advantage of favoring the penetration of laser radiation into the thicknesses of the fabric and of evacuating the fumaroles which the welding can generate by burning under radiation. It is advantageous to move this suction in x-y at the same time as the head of the laser radiation source. According to a preferred variant of the device for carrying out this technique with suction, the suction pipe ends in the form of a funnel and makes it even better possible to support the tissue in tension on a perimeter surrounding the point of crossing of the laser, to maintain this fabric or multilayered fabrics at a specific height, to prevent vibrations and to suck out the pawns and cutting waste due to the concentration of the suction induced by the funneling effect. The welded pieces can then no longer be rewelded to a table or a grid such as those which usually serve as a support for the fabric. This system also allows laser cutting of single thickness fabric, continuously, with automatic evacuation of the pins and waste.

 According to the present invention, it is possible to cut / weld pieces of multilayer fabrics, according to pre-established contours and with a quality satisfying the standards accepted in the clothing industry.

 Non-limiting examples of the products which can be obtained by the process according to the invention are, inter alia: collars, cuffs, pocket flaps, tabs, inserts for pockets, scarves, and more generally all elements in multilayer fabrics intended for clothing and accessories. The process described above makes it possible to give the product produced, at convenience, cutouts with embroidery, fringe or torn effects, among others, and this thanks to the control of the movement of the cutting / welding line. It is thus possible in particular to obtain collars and cuffs in the form of laces, cuffs of scalloped pockets, shoulder tabs having elaborate shapes, such as in particular flower shapes or the like.

 Relative to a single thickness of fabric, the method according to the invention also makes it possible to cut out pierced and / or engraved patterns, in the latter case on condition that the power of the laser beam is controlled.

This process advantageously makes it possible to produce, in a width fabric, cuts of pieces intended to be made with simultaneous cutting of pierced and / or engraved patterns thereby creating an ornamentation or carrying out a future operation planned at the stage of making the garment. (such as labeling), marking, making a buttonhole, slots, belt loops, or pocket opening, among others. The method also allows the manufacture of new kinds of lace in width, in ribbons, in panels in a fabric, the manufacture of engraved or pierced banners, the realization of relief patterns on the condition that the power of the laser is controlled in a way that only a limited thickness and / or a limited number of thicknesses of multilayer fabric is cut, including with foams, stuffing materials and thick fabrics, from which a tear-off or other traditional means then reveals in relief the pattern predefined by the contour of the laser beam. It is also possible thanks to this process to easily and efficiently weld continuously, on the fabric, a ribbon and / or a fancy yarn and / or a trim which is presented in ribbon. In practice, the "ribbon must then be fed as in multi-head trades.

 The laser radiation can work either in broken lines, like a sewing machine stitch, or in continuous line (s), straight (s) or in zig-zag, or in fancy patterns allowing to redecorate the ribbon in etching and / or welding at the same time as it is laid.

 Several laser beams can be made to work together on the same stretched plane, with individual control of the patterns generated by each of them.

 Insofar as the multilayer plane to be treated according to the invention allows, it is possible to continuously insert an interlayer which does not weld and which only partially covers the surfaces to be cut, in the manner of a weld reserve, this interlayer insulator being, if necessary, itself precut to allow welding of certain traces and cutting of other traces of the laser radiation (s). It then becomes possible to make fairly simple finished products, such as bags, t-shirts, gloves and others.

Claims (15)

 overlapping layers.  fibers of at least one of the tissues forming the said  interposed bonding and / or at least part of the  laser radiation ensuring the fusion of a material of  the layers of tissue superimposed by means of a  layers of fabric superimposed and welded together  cutting according to contours and / or patterns of  applies guided laser radiation, as it ensures  the layers of fabrics to be joined and we  predefined patterns, characterized in that one superimposes  between them and cut according to contours and / or  clothing with multiple layers of welded fabric CLAIMS 1. Method for making parts or pieces of 2. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that  that the overlapping fabrics are glued before, during  and / or after the application of laser radiation from  cutting. 3. Method according to claim 2, characterized in that  that the fabrics are glued according to areas or  predefined bonding lines, corresponding  advantageously to laser cutting lines  layers of tissue to be cut. 4. Method according to any one of claims 1 to  3, characterized in that the cutting operations and  are practically simultaneous, from  preferably due to the application of one and  same laser radiation. 5. Method according to any one of claims 1 to  4, characterized in that it further comprises  applying tissue pressure between them and  on their common support, advantageously by a  suction below the tissue support plane  and / or by blowing above this plane. 6. Method according to any one of claims 1 to  5, characterized in that it includes the processing of  woven, knitted or non-woven fabrics. 7. Method according to claim 6, characterized in that  that it involves the treatment of tissues based on  polyester and glue-based spacers  polyester, or polyamide fabrics, optionally  combined with polyamide glue or glue  polyester. 8. Method according to any one of claims 1 to  7, characterized in that it comprises the application  a coating and / or a transparent film. 9. Method according to any one of claims 1 to  8, characterized in that it includes the insertion in  continuous of a tab which does not weld and which does not  only partially covers the surfaces to be cut,  way of a weld reserve, and is  possibly itself precut. 10. Method according to claim 1, characterized in that  that for fixing ribbons and / or  fancy yarns and / or trimmings appearing in  ribbon, said ribbons and / or wires are welded to said fabric  fancy and / or trim presented in ribbon at  by means of laser radiation, continuously, with  possible redecoration in engraving or welding  said ribbons and / or fancy yarns and / or trimmings  presenting itself in ribbon. 11. Process for cutting parts or pieces of  clothing, characterized in that  continuous cutting of said parts or pieces of  clothing, by means of laser radiation in a  single-layered fabric, with or without  simultaneous cutting of pierced and / or engraved patterns, with  possible evacuation of pawns, cut pieces  and / or waste by aspiration. 12.Equipment for implementing the process according to  any one of claims 1 to 11,  characterized in that it includes a gluing machine  calender with heating mat, a cutting table  piloted laser radiation, computer equipment  with artistic and industrial design software,  and optional independent tension unwinders  variables and independent to feed the table  laser, and at its output a tension reel  variable or in cradle.  waste.  automatic checkers, cut pieces and / or  in cradle, as well as a possible evacuation system  output from it a variable tension reel or  independent to power the laser table, and  independent unwinders with variable voltages and  artistic and industrial designs, and optional  fabrics, computer equipment with software  differential allowing to stretch the layer (s) of  cylinders called "pullers" connected or not by a  characterized in that it comprises two pairs of  any one of claims 1 to 11,  13.Equipment for implementing the process according to 14.Clothing or part of clothing obtained by the  method according to any one of claims 1 to  11. 15.Clothing or part of clothing obtained by means of  equipment according to claim 12 or 13.