FR2749510A1 - Sunscreen composition containing betulinic acid - Google Patents

Sunscreen composition containing betulinic acid Download PDF

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Publication number
FR2749510A1
FR2749510A1 FR9607106A FR9607106A FR2749510A1 FR 2749510 A1 FR2749510 A1 FR 2749510A1 FR 9607106 A FR9607106 A FR 9607106A FR 9607106 A FR9607106 A FR 9607106A FR 2749510 A1 FR2749510 A1 FR 2749510A1
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Prior art keywords
composition according
betulinic acid
rays
oil
further containing
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Granted
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FR9607106A
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French (fr)
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FR2749510B1 (en
Inventor
Olivier Courtin
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Clarins SA
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Clarins SA
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/63—Steroids; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
    • A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations

Abstract

A sunscreen cosmetic composition for protecting the skin against solar UV radiation contains betulinic acid (I).

Description

Composition srotectrice contre les rayons ultra-violets solaires
L'invention concerne une composition cosmétique pour la protection de la peau contre les rayons ultra-violets solaires.Protective composition against solar ultraviolet rays
The invention relates to a cosmetic composition for protecting the skin against solar ultraviolet rays.

On connaît depuis de nombreuses années les effets biologiques des radiations solaires sur l'épiderme humain. En effet, la peau soumise aux radiations ultraviolettes présente à court et moyen terme des modifications importantes - Le "coup de soleil" ou érythème, apparaissant dans les heures suivant une irradiation importante, est consécutif à une inflammation cutanée produite par vasodilatation des vaisseaux capillaires sous-épidermiques, accompagnée d'oedème (on note également un épaississement de l'épiderme réactionnel).The biological effects of solar radiation on the human epidermis have been known for many years. In fact, the skin subjected to ultraviolet radiation has significant changes in the short and medium term - The "sunburn" or erythema, appearing within hours of significant irradiation, is consecutive to skin inflammation produced by vasodilation of the capillary vessels under -epidermal, accompanied by edema (there is also a thickening of the reaction epidermis).

- La pigmentation actinique ou bronzage qui apparaît dans les jours suivant l'exposition solaire correspond à une stimulation des mélanocytes, cellules responsables de la synthèse? de mélanine, le pigment qui colore la peau.- The actinic pigmentation or tanning that appears in the days following sun exposure corresponds to stimulation of the melanocytes, cells responsible for synthesis? of melanin, the pigment that colors the skin.

- La photo-immunodépression est une diminution de l'activité des cellules de Langerhans responsables de l'immunité cutanée qui ne reconnaissent plus les substances étrangères. Cette baisse des défenses immunitaires favorise aussi la prolifération de cellules anormales : terrain propice au phénomène de carcinogenèse.- Photo-immunosuppression is a decrease in the activity of Langerhans cells responsible for cutaneous immunity which no longer recognize foreign substances. This drop in immune defenses also promotes the proliferation of abnormal cells: a breeding ground for the phenomenon of carcinogenesis.

- Le cancer cutané (mélanome) est la conséquence ultime des dommages induits par les rayon ultraviolets accumulés dans les cellules de l'épiderme et qui ont échappé à tous les mécanismes de réparation. Ce processus s'étale sur une durée de 10 à 20 ans. - Skin cancer (melanoma) is the ultimate consequence of the damage induced by the ultraviolet rays accumulated in the cells of the epidermis and which have escaped all the repair mechanisms. This process takes place over a period of 10 to 20 years.

I1 existe sur le marché une grande variété de compositions cosmétiques destinées à être étalées sur la peau, avant et pendant l'exposition au soleil, pour lutter contre les effets nocifs des radiations ultraviolettes. There is a wide variety of cosmetic compositions on the market intended to be spread on the skin, before and during exposure to the sun, in order to combat the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation.

Une telle composition cosmétique est particulièrement efficace lorsqu'elle contient de l'acide bétulinique, éventuellement en combinaison avec des constituants actifs des compositions solaires connues.Such a cosmetic composition is particularly effective when it contains betulinic acid, optionally in combination with active constituents of known solar compositions.

Avantageusement, la composition selon l'invention contient environ 20 à 50 ppm en poids d'acide bétulinique.Advantageously, the composition according to the invention contains approximately 20 to 50 ppm by weight of betulinic acid.

On sait que l'acide bétulinique se trouve, au côté de la bétuline, dans le bouleau, et notamment dans les feuilles et surtout dans l'écorce de cet arbre. L'invention prévoit donc d'incorporer l'acide bétulinique à la composition solaire sous forme d'extrait de bouleau. Cet extrait est avantageusement obtenu par un procédé d'extraction douce permettant d'extraire sélectivement les principes actifs contenus dans la plante, tout en préservant la nature des molécules. On mélange les plantes broyées avec du butilèneglycol servant de solvant d'extraction, et on soumet ce mélange à des microondes pendant un temps très court, en continu. L'extrait obtenu est séparé au bout de quelques minutes et contient environ 700 ppm d'acide bétulinique.We know that betulinic acid is found, alongside betulin, in birch, and especially in the leaves and especially in the bark of this tree. The invention therefore provides for incorporating betulinic acid into the solar composition in the form of birch extract. This extract is advantageously obtained by a gentle extraction process making it possible to selectively extract the active principles contained in the plant, while preserving the nature of the molecules. The ground plants are mixed with butilene glycol serving as the extraction solvent, and this mixture is subjected to microwaves for a very short time, continuously. The extract obtained is separated after a few minutes and contains approximately 700 ppm of betulinic acid.

Parmi les constituants connus des compositions solaires qui peuvent être combinés à l'acide bétulinique figurent les filtres solaires. Ceux-ci comprennent les filtres chimiques qui absorbent les rayons ultraviolets, par exemple le butylméthoxydibenzoylméthane, actif vis-à-vis des rayons ultraviolets A, le méthoxycinnamate d'octyle, actif vis-à-vis des rayons ultraviolets B, et la benzophénone 3, active visà-vis de ces deux types de rayons.Among the known constituents of sun compositions which can be combined with betulinic acid are sun filters. These include chemical filters that absorb ultraviolet rays, for example butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, active against ultraviolet A rays, octyl methoxycinnamate, active vis-à-vis ultraviolet B rays, and benzophenone 3 , active vis-à-vis these two types of rays.

Les filtres solaires comprennent également les écrans physiques minéraux qui réfléchissent les rayons ultraviolets
A et/ou B et/ou des rayons infrarouges, par exemple les oxydes métalliques tel que l'oxyde de titane, avantageusement micronisé et/ou enrobé, l'oxyde de zinc et les oxydes de fer.Sunscreens also include physical mineral screens that reflect ultraviolet rays
A and / or B and / or infrared rays, for example metal oxides such as titanium oxide, advantageously micronized and / or coated, zinc oxide and iron oxides.

Il convient également de mentionner les antioxydants destinés à protéger les membranes cellulaires contre l'oxydation, par exemple le butylhydroxytoluène.Mention should also be made of antioxidants intended to protect cell membranes against oxidation, for example butylhydroxytoluene.

Un autre type de constituant actif est un agent cyto-phytoimmunoprotecteur, qui a pour effet d'un part d'éviter la formation d'altérations graves des kératinocytes, d'autre part de protéger les cellules de Langerhans afin de maintenir les défenses immunitaires cutanées.Another type of active constituent is a cyto-phytoimmunoprotective agent, which has the effect on the one hand of preventing the formation of serious alterations in keratinocytes, on the other hand of protecting the Langerhans cells in order to maintain the skin immune defenses .

On peut à cet égard combiner plusieurs agents cyto-photoimmunoprotecteurs choisis parmi les acides aminés, notamment la tyrosine, les nucléotides, notamment l'acide ribonucléique, les vitamines, notamment la pyridoxine, et les saccharides, notamment le mannitol.In this regard, it is possible to combine several cyto-photoimmunoprotective agents chosen from amino acids, in particular tyrosine, nucleotides, in particular ribonucleic acid, vitamins, in particular pyridoxine, and saccharides, in particular mannitol.

La composition selon l'invention peut notamment se présenter sous la forme d'une émulsion huile dans eau, d'une émulsion eau dans huile, d'un gel, d'une lotion ou d'une huile.The composition according to the invention may in particular be in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a gel, a lotion or an oil.

On donne ci-après un exemple de formule d'une composition cosmétique selon l'invention sous forme d'émulsion huile dans eau, les quantités étant données en pourcentages pondéraux par rapport à l'ensemble de la composition.An example of a cosmetic composition according to the invention is given below in the form of an oil-in-water emulsion, the amounts being given in percentages by weight relative to the entire composition.

. Myristate de glycérol 4,0
. Cétylphosphate de potassium 2,0
. Dioctoate de propylèneglycol 10,0
Triglycérides 5,0
. Huile de sésame 2,0
. Huile de silicone 8,0
. Polyvinylpyrrolidone 2,0
. Extrait de bouleau 5,0
. Méthoxycinnamate d'octyle 7,5
. Benzophénone 3 5,0
Oxyde de titane micronisé 5,0
. Mica 4,0
. Agent cyto-photo-immunoprotecteur 5,0
Extrait glycolique d'aloès 4,0
. Gomme xanthane 0,1
. Carboxyméthylcellulose 0,2
. Parfum 0,5
. Conservateurs 0,5 Eau purifiée ....... q.s.p. 100. . Glycerol myristate 4.0
. Potassium cetyl phosphate 2.0
. Propylene glycol dioctoate 10.0
Triglycerides 5.0
. Sesame oil 2.0
. Silicone oil 8.0
. Polyvinylpyrrolidone 2.0
. Birch extract 5.0
. Octyl methoxycinnamate 7.5
. Benzophenone 3 5.0
Micronized titanium oxide 5.0
. Mica 4.0
. Cyto-photo-immunoprotective agent 5.0
Aloe glycolic extract 4.0
. 0.1 xanthan gum
. Carboxymethylcellulose 0.2
. Perfume 0.5
. Preservatives 0.5 Purified water ....... qs 100.

Le terme triglycéride désigne ici un mélange disponible dans le commerce, formé de triglycérides d'acides gras en C8 à C10.The term triglyceride here designates a commercially available mixture of triglycerides of C8 to C10 fatty acids.

L'extrait de bouleau est obtenu par le procédé décrit plus haut et contient environ 700 ppm d'acide bétulinique.The birch extract is obtained by the process described above and contains approximately 700 ppm of betulinic acid.

Dans cette formule, l'agent cyto-phyto-immunoprotecteur est un mélange composé de 37% d'acides aminés, parmi lesquels la tyrosine, 5% de nucléotides, 3% de vitamines et 50% de saccharides.In this formula, the cyto-phyto-immunoprotective agent is a mixture composed of 37% amino acids, including tyrosine, 5% nucleotides, 3% vitamins and 50% saccharides.

Le parfum non photosensibilisant est choisi en fonction des caractéristiques olfactives souhaitées pour la composition.The non-photosensitizing perfume is chosen according to the olfactory characteristics desired for the composition.

Bien entendu, la formule ci-dessus peut être modifiée en fonction des besoins. En particulier, le pourcentage d'extrait de bouleau peut varier de 3 à 7% environ. Cet extrait peut également être remplacé par une quantité équivalente d'acide bétulinique provenant d'une autre source. Of course, the above formula can be changed as needed. In particular, the percentage of birch extract can vary from 3 to 7% approximately. This extract can also be replaced by an equivalent amount of betulinic acid from another source.

Claims (11)

RevendicationsClaims 1. Composition cosmétique pour la protection de la peau contre les rayons ultra-violets solaires, caractérisée en ce qu'elle contient de l'acide bétulinique.1. Cosmetic composition for protecting the skin against solar ultraviolet rays, characterized in that it contains betulinic acid. 2. Composition selon la revendication 1, dans laquelle l'acide bétulinique est présent à raison d'environ 20 à 50 ppm en poids.2. Composition according to claim 1, in which the betulinic acid is present in an amount of approximately 20 to 50 ppm by weight. 3. Composition selon l'une des revendications 1 et 2, dans laquelle l'acide bétulinique est introduit sous forme d'extrait de bouleau.3. Composition according to one of claims 1 and 2, wherein the betulinic acid is introduced in the form of birch extract. 4. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle contenant en outre au moins un filtre chimique à l'égard des rayons ultraviolets A et/ou B.4. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which further containing at least one chemical filter with respect to ultraviolet A and / or B rays. 5. Composition selon la revendication 4, dans laquelle contenant au moins un filtre chimique choisi parmi le butylméthoxydibenzoylméthane, le méthoxycinnamate d'octyle et la benzophénone 3.5. Composition according to claim 4, in which containing at least one chemical filter chosen from butylmethoxydibenzoylmethane, octyl methoxycinnamate and benzophenone 3. 6. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle contenant en outre au moins un écran physique minéral à l'égard des rayons ultraviolets A et/ou B et/ou des rayons infrarouges.6. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which further containing at least one mineral physical screen with respect to ultraviolet A and / or B rays and / or infrared rays. 7. Composition selon la revendication 6, dans laquelle contenant en tant qu'écran physique minéral au moins un oxyde métallique tel que l'oxyde de titane, l'oxyde de zinc et les oxydes de fer.7. Composition according to claim 6, in which containing as mineral inorganic screen at least one metallic oxide such as titanium oxide, zinc oxide and iron oxides. 8. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle contenant en outre au moins un antioxydant tel que le butylhydroxytoluène. 8. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which further containing at least one antioxidant such as butylhydroxytoluene. 9. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle contenant en outre au moins un agent cytophyto-immunoprotecteur.9. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which further containing at least one cytophyto-immunoprotective agent. 10. Composition selon la revendication 9, dans laquelle contenant une combinaison d'agents cyto-phyto-immunoprotecteurs choisis parmi les acides aminés, notamment la tyrosine, les nucléotides, notamment l'acide ribonucléique, les vitamines, notamment la pyridoxine, et les saccharides, notamment le mannitol.10. Composition according to claim 9, in which containing a combination of cyto-phyto-immunoprotective agents chosen from amino acids, in particular tyrosine, nucleotides, in particular ribonucleic acid, vitamins, in particular pyridoxine, and saccharides , especially mannitol. 11. Composition selon l'une des revendications précédentes, dans laquelle se présentant sous une forme choisie parmi celles d'une émulsion huile dans eau, d'une émulsion eau dans huile, d'un gel, d'une lotion et d'une huile. 11. Composition according to one of the preceding claims, in which is in the form chosen from those of an oil-in-water emulsion, a water-in-oil emulsion, a gel, a lotion and a oil.
FR9607106A 1996-06-07 1996-06-07 PROTECTIVE COMPOSITION AGAINST SOLAR ULTRA-VIOLET RAYS Expired - Fee Related FR2749510B1 (en)

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Cited By (2)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000003748A2 (en) * 1998-07-17 2000-01-27 The University Of Texas Southwestern Medical Center Compositions which contain triterpenes for regulating hair growth
US6482857B1 (en) 1998-07-17 2002-11-19 The University Of Texas Southwestern Medical Center Compositions which contain triterpenes for regulating hair growth

Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2679134A1 (en) * 1991-07-19 1993-01-22 Sablon Louis COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE REGULATION OF SKIN PIGMENTATION COMPRISING AN ECLIPTA ALBA EXTRACT.
WO1995004526A1 (en) * 1993-08-09 1995-02-16 Glycomed Incorporated Lupane triterpenoid derivatives
EP0717983A1 (en) * 1994-12-20 1996-06-26 Unilever Plc Cosmetic compositions containing betulinic acid
WO1996029068A2 (en) * 1995-03-21 1996-09-26 Board Of Trustees Of The University Of Illinois Use of betulinic acid and its derivatives for inhibiting malignant melanoma growth and a method of monitoring this

Patent Citations (4)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
FR2679134A1 (en) * 1991-07-19 1993-01-22 Sablon Louis COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE REGULATION OF SKIN PIGMENTATION COMPRISING AN ECLIPTA ALBA EXTRACT.
WO1995004526A1 (en) * 1993-08-09 1995-02-16 Glycomed Incorporated Lupane triterpenoid derivatives
EP0717983A1 (en) * 1994-12-20 1996-06-26 Unilever Plc Cosmetic compositions containing betulinic acid
WO1996029068A2 (en) * 1995-03-21 1996-09-26 Board Of Trustees Of The University Of Illinois Use of betulinic acid and its derivatives for inhibiting malignant melanoma growth and a method of monitoring this

Non-Patent Citations (1)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Title
PISHA E ET AL: "DISCOVERY OF BETULINIC ACID AS A SELECTIVE INHIBITOR OF HUMAN MELANOMA THAT FUNCTIONS BY INDUCTION OF APOPTOSIS", NATURE MEDICINE, vol. 1, no. 10, October 1995 (1995-10-01), pages 1046 - 1051, XP000611705 *

Cited By (3)

* Cited by examiner, † Cited by third party
Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
WO2000003748A2 (en) * 1998-07-17 2000-01-27 The University Of Texas Southwestern Medical Center Compositions which contain triterpenes for regulating hair growth
WO2000003748A3 (en) * 1998-07-17 2000-06-15 Procter & Gamble Compositions which contain triterpenes for regulating hair growth
US6482857B1 (en) 1998-07-17 2002-11-19 The University Of Texas Southwestern Medical Center Compositions which contain triterpenes for regulating hair growth

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