FR3128881A1 - Sunscreen composition including organic UV filters and environmentally friendly oily copolymers - Google Patents
Sunscreen composition including organic UV filters and environmentally friendly oily copolymers Download PDFInfo
- Publication number
- FR3128881A1 FR3128881A1 FR2111857A FR2111857A FR3128881A1 FR 3128881 A1 FR3128881 A1 FR 3128881A1 FR 2111857 A FR2111857 A FR 2111857A FR 2111857 A FR2111857 A FR 2111857A FR 3128881 A1 FR3128881 A1 FR 3128881A1
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- FR
- France
- Prior art keywords
- composition according
- composition
- oil
- advantageously
- copolymer
- Prior art date
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- 239000000203 mixture Substances 0.000 title claims abstract description 158
- 229920001577 copolymer Polymers 0.000 title claims abstract description 50
- 230000000475 sunscreen effect Effects 0.000 title claims description 40
- 239000000516 sunscreening agent Substances 0.000 title claims description 40
- 239000004904 UV filter Substances 0.000 title claims description 19
- 239000003795 chemical substances by application Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 239000002904 solvent Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 25
- 235000015112 vegetable and seed oil Nutrition 0.000 claims abstract description 21
- 238000012216 screening Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 20
- 239000008158 vegetable oil Substances 0.000 claims abstract description 17
- 238000007334 copolymerization reaction Methods 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- 230000005855 radiation Effects 0.000 claims abstract description 10
- -1 coco-caprylate Chemical compound 0.000 claims description 33
- JYEUMXHLPRZUAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 1,2,3-triazine Chemical group C1=CN=NN=C1 JYEUMXHLPRZUAT-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 19
- 150000001875 compounds Chemical class 0.000 claims description 18
- 239000003921 oil Substances 0.000 claims description 15
- OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4-[4-(tert-butylcarbamoyl)anilino]-6-[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)NC(C)(C)C)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 OSCJHTSDLYVCQC-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 14
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- JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl 4-[[4,6-bis[4-(2-ethylhexoxycarbonyl)anilino]-1,3,5-triazin-2-yl]amino]benzoate Chemical compound C1=CC(C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1NC1=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=NC(NC=2C=CC(=CC=2)C(=O)OCC(CC)CCCC)=N1 JGUMTYWKIBJSTN-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- XVAMCHGMPYWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-N bemotrizinol Chemical compound OC1=CC(OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=C1C1=NC(C=2C=CC(OC)=CC=2)=NC(C=2C(=CC(OCC(CC)CCCC)=CC=2)O)=N1 XVAMCHGMPYWHNL-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
- 239000000539 dimer Substances 0.000 claims description 8
- PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N dioctyl carbonate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCOC(=O)OCCCCCCCC PKPOVTYZGGYDIJ-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 8
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- XTJFFFGAUHQWII-UHFFFAOYSA-N Dibutyl adipate Chemical compound CCCCOC(=O)CCCCC(=O)OCCCC XTJFFFGAUHQWII-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 6
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- NFIHXTUNNGIYRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-decanoyloxypropyl decanoate Chemical compound CCCCCCCCCC(=O)OCC(C)OC(=O)CCCCCCCCC NFIHXTUNNGIYRF-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
- UADWUILHKRXHMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 2-ethylhexyl benzoate Chemical compound CCCCC(CC)COC(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 UADWUILHKRXHMM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- RDOFJDLLWVCMRU-UHFFFAOYSA-N Diisobutyl adipate Chemical compound CC(C)COC(=O)CCCCC(=O)OCC(C)C RDOFJDLLWVCMRU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 claims description 4
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- 229910052710 silicon Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 239000010703 silicon Substances 0.000 description 1
- YRWWOAFMPXPHEJ-OFBPEYICSA-K sodium L-ascorbic acid 2-phosphate Chemical compound [Na+].[Na+].[Na+].OC[C@H](O)[C@H]1OC(=O)C(OP([O-])([O-])=O)=C1[O-] YRWWOAFMPXPHEJ-OFBPEYICSA-K 0.000 description 1
- 229940048058 sodium ascorbyl phosphate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- WXMKPNITSTVMEF-UHFFFAOYSA-M sodium benzoate Chemical compound [Na+].[O-]C(=O)C1=CC=CC=C1 WXMKPNITSTVMEF-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
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- YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N sodium;(2s,3s,4s,5r,6r)-6-[(2s,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2-[(2s,3s,4r,5r,6r)-6-[(2r,3r,4r,5s,6r)-3-acetamido-2,5-dihydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-2-carboxy-4,5-dihydroxyoxan-3-yl]oxy-5-hydroxy-6-(hydroxymethyl)oxan-4-yl]oxy-3,4,5-trihydroxyoxane-2- Chemical compound [Na+].CC(=O)N[C@H]1[C@H](O)O[C@H](CO)[C@@H](O)[C@@H]1O[C@H]1[C@H](O)[C@@H](O)[C@H](O[C@H]2[C@@H]([C@@H](O[C@H]3[C@@H]([C@@H](O)[C@H](O)[C@H](O3)C(O)=O)O)[C@H](O)[C@@H](CO)O2)NC(C)=O)[C@@H](C(O)=O)O1 YWIVKILSMZOHHF-QJZPQSOGSA-N 0.000 description 1
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- 125000005555 sulfoximide group Chemical group 0.000 description 1
- 239000002600 sunflower oil Substances 0.000 description 1
- 238000004381 surface treatment Methods 0.000 description 1
- 229960003080 taurine Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 150000003505 terpenes Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000007586 terpenes Nutrition 0.000 description 1
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- 108060008226 thioredoxin Proteins 0.000 description 1
- 239000010936 titanium Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229910052719 titanium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- 229930003802 tocotrienol Natural products 0.000 description 1
- 239000011731 tocotrienol Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019148 tocotrienols Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 238000011200 topical administration Methods 0.000 description 1
- ZRVDANDJSTYELM-FXAWDEMLSA-N totarol Chemical compound CC([C@@H]1CC2)(C)CCC[C@]1(C)C1=C2C(C(C)C)=C(O)C=C1 ZRVDANDJSTYELM-FXAWDEMLSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229940074347 totarol Drugs 0.000 description 1
- QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-isoferulic acid Natural products COC1=CC=C(C=CC(O)=O)C=C1O QURCVMIEKCOAJU-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N trans-isorenieratene Natural products CC(=C/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/C=C(C)/C=C/c1c(C)ccc(C)c1C)C=CC=C(/C)C=Cc2c(C)ccc(C)c2C ZCIHMQAPACOQHT-ZGMPDRQDSA-N 0.000 description 1
- ZRVDANDJSTYELM-UHFFFAOYSA-N trans-totarol Natural products C1CC2C(C)(C)CCCC2(C)C2=C1C(C(C)C)=C(O)C=C2 ZRVDANDJSTYELM-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 150000003626 triacylglycerols Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N triformin Chemical compound O=COCC(OC=O)COC=O UFTFJSFQGQCHQW-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 235000001019 trigonella foenum-graecum Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- SZEMGTQCPRNXEG-UHFFFAOYSA-M trimethyl(octadecyl)azanium;bromide Chemical compound [Br-].CCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCCC[N+](C)(C)C SZEMGTQCPRNXEG-UHFFFAOYSA-M 0.000 description 1
- 150000004670 unsaturated fatty acids Chemical class 0.000 description 1
- 235000021122 unsaturated fatty acids Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 229940116269 uric acid Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 235000019155 vitamin A Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011719 vitamin A Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019154 vitamin C Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011718 vitamin C Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000019165 vitamin E Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- 239000011709 vitamin E Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229940046009 vitamin E Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 229940045997 vitamin a Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000007762 w/o emulsion Substances 0.000 description 1
- 239000002023 wood Substances 0.000 description 1
- 229960000306 zinc gluconate Drugs 0.000 description 1
- 239000011670 zinc gluconate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000011478 zinc gluconate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- NWONKYPBYAMBJT-UHFFFAOYSA-L zinc sulfate Chemical compound [Zn+2].[O-]S([O-])(=O)=O NWONKYPBYAMBJT-UHFFFAOYSA-L 0.000 description 1
- 239000011686 zinc sulphate Substances 0.000 description 1
- 235000009529 zinc sulphate Nutrition 0.000 description 1
- RNWHGQJWIACOKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N zinc;oxygen(2-) Chemical class [O-2].[Zn+2] RNWHGQJWIACOKP-UHFFFAOYSA-N 0.000 description 1
- 229910052726 zirconium Inorganic materials 0.000 description 1
- OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N β-Carotene Chemical compound CC=1CCCC(C)(C)C=1\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C(\C)=C\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C=C(/C)\C=C\C1=C(C)CCCC1(C)C OENHQHLEOONYIE-JLTXGRSLSA-N 0.000 description 1
Classifications
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
- A61Q17/04—Topical preparations for affording protection against sunlight or other radiation; Topical sun tanning preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
- A61K8/49—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds
- A61K8/494—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing heterocyclic compounds with more than one nitrogen as the only hetero atom
- A61K8/4966—Triazines or their condensed derivatives
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/72—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds
- A61K8/84—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic macromolecular compounds obtained by reactions otherwise than those involving only carbon-carbon unsaturated bonds
- A61K8/85—Polyesters
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/92—Oils, fats or waxes; Derivatives thereof, e.g. hydrogenation products thereof
Landscapes
- Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
- Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
- Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
- General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
- Public Health (AREA)
- Birds (AREA)
- Epidemiology (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Oil, Petroleum & Natural Gas (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
- Biological Depolymerization Polymers (AREA)
Abstract
Composition solaire comprenant : - au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile, - au moins un solubilisant de filtres organiques UV lipophiles, - au moins un copolymère biodégradable obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir d’au moins une huile végétale, ainsi que son utilisation pour protéger la peau et les phanères du rayonnement UV.Sun composition comprising: - at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent, - at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent solubilizing agent, - at least one biodegradable copolymer obtained by copolymerization reaction from at least one vegetable oil, as well as its use for protect the skin and skin appendages from UV radiation.
Description
Domaine de l’inventionField of invention
La présente invention concerne une composition, avantageusement cosmétique ou dermatologique, comprenant des filtres organiques et des copolymères huileux biodégradables et respectueux de l’environnement et de la peau humaine.The present invention relates to a composition, advantageously cosmetic or dermatological, comprising organic filters and oily copolymers that are biodegradable and respectful of the environment and human skin.
Etat antérieur de la techniquePrior state of the art
Le rayonnement ultraviolet (UV) se compose de lumière de longueur d'onde comprise entre 100 nm et 400 nm, traditionnellement répartie en 3 sous-groupes : les UV-A (400-315 nm), les UV-B (315-280 nm) et les UV-C (280-100 nm). Les UV-C, de courte longueur d’onde, sont les UV les plus énergétiques et les plus nocifs. Ils sont filtrés par la couche d'ozone de l’atmosphère et n’atteignent pas la surface de la Terre en quantité considérable. La plupart des dégâts sur la peau est causée par les UV-A et les UV-B, qui collectivement génèrent directement des désordres moléculaires (altération de l’ADN, dommages aux protéines et aux lipides membranaires) et sont à l’origine de la production de radicaux libres, notamment les espèces réactives de l’oxygène (ERO ou ROS)).Ultraviolet (UV) radiation consists of light with a wavelength between 100 nm and 400 nm, traditionally divided into 3 subgroups: UV-A (400-315 nm), UV-B (315-280 nm) and UV-C (280-100 nm). Short-wavelength UV-C is the most energetic and harmful UV. They are filtered by the ozone layer of the atmosphere and do not reach the surface of the Earth in considerable quantity. Most of the damage to the skin is caused by UV-A and UV-B, which collectively directly generate molecular disorders (DNA damage, damage to proteins and membrane lipids) and are at the origin of the production of free radicals, in particular reactive oxygen species (ROS or ROS)).
Il est donc nécessaire de lutter contre les effets nocifs du rayonnement UV, notamment UV-A et UV-B. Dans ce but, des compositions solaires ont été développées afin d’assurer une photoprotection des zones sujettes au rayonnement UV. Ces compositions se présentent sous la forme de lotion, huile, émulsion de type huile-dans-eau ou eau-dans-huile, mousse, gel, stick ou spray. Elles contiennent un support cosmétiquement acceptable et un ou plusieurs filtres UV chimiques ou écrans minéraux à des concentrations diverses.It is therefore necessary to combat the harmful effects of UV radiation, particularly UV-A and UV-B. To this end, sunscreen compositions have been developed to provide photoprotection for areas subject to UV radiation. These compositions are in the form of a lotion, oil, emulsion of the oil-in-water or water-in-oil type, mousse, gel, stick or spray. They contain a cosmetically acceptable carrier and one or more chemical UV filters or mineral screens at various concentrations.
Les écrans solaires minéraux, parmi lesquels on peut citer les oxydes de zinc et les dioxydes de titane, sont très performants et sûrs pour l’utilisation humaine.Mineral sunscreens, including zinc oxides and titanium dioxides, are highly effective and safe for human use.
Cependant, ils présentent l’inconvénient de dessécher la peau et à s’étaler avec difficulté, en laissant des trainées blanches sur la peau qui peuvent se révéler très inesthétiques. L’appréciation galénique des compositions à base d’écrans minéraux est souvent médiocre, notamment dans les compositions exemptes de silicones. Ces caractéristiques techniques des écrans minéraux peuvent limiter l’observance de produits à base de ce système de filtration de la lumière UV par les utilisateurs.However, they have the disadvantage of drying out the skin and spreading with difficulty, leaving white streaks on the skin that can be very unsightly. The galenic appreciation of compositions based on mineral screens is often mediocre, especially in compositions free of silicones. These technical characteristics of mineral sunscreens may limit users' compliance with products based on this UV light filtration system.
Les filtres UV chimiques sont des composés de nature organique. Ce type de filtres présentent plusieurs aspects avantageux. Ils agissent de façon synergique en couvrant des plages de longueur d’onde différentes, ce qui permet d’obtenir une protection uniforme dans les UV-B et UV-A. Les filtres chimiques peuvent également se stabiliser, et notamment se photostabiliser réciproquement.Chemical UV filters are organic compounds. This type of filter has several advantageous aspects. They act synergistically covering different wavelength ranges, providing uniform protection in UV-B and UV-A. Chemical filters can also stabilize each other, and in particular photostabilize each other.
Les filtres UV organiques peuvent se diviser ultérieurement en deux classes : les filtres organiques UV hydrophiles et les filtres organiques UV lipophiles. Les filtres hydrophiles, dont quelques exemples parmi les plus utilisés sont les composés répondant aux désignations INCI phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid et disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, sont solubles dans les phases aqueuses, et se prêtent donc à la formulation de produits ne contenant aucune phase grasse. Cependant, ces filtres ne permettent d’obtenir que des valeurs de SPF très basses s’ils ne sont pas associés à des filtres lipophiles. En outre, utilisés seuls, ils rendent la composition finale collante de sorte que les caractéristiques galéniques ne sont pas optimales. Les filtres UV organiques lipophiles sont donc les plus couramment utilisés, notamment dans les émulsions, ou dans les huiles solaires.Organic UV filters can further be divided into two classes: hydrophilic organic UV filters and lipophilic organic UV filters. Hydrophilic screening agents, some of the most widely used examples of which are the compounds corresponding to the INCI designations phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid and disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, are soluble in aqueous phases, and therefore lend themselves to the formulation of products containing no fatty phase. However, these filters only allow very low SPF values to be obtained if they are not associated with lipophilic filters. In addition, used alone, they make the final composition sticky so that the galenic characteristics are not optimal. Lipophilic organic UV filters are therefore the most commonly used, in particular in emulsions, or in suntan oils.
Malgré leur efficacité, les filtres UV organiques lipophiles souffrent de l’inconvénient majeur d’être moyennement solubles et ont tendance à recristalliser, ce qui diminue la performance de la photoprotection et dans les cas les plus extrêmes peut arriver à rendre le produit inutilisable ou cosmétiquement inacceptable pendant son utilisation. Cette tendance est particulièrement prononcée dans le cas de produits solaires à base de filtres UV organiques dérivés de triazines.Despite their effectiveness, lipophilic organic UV filters suffer from the major drawback of being moderately soluble and tending to recrystallize, which reduces photoprotection performance and in the most extreme cases can render the product unusable or cosmetically unacceptable during use. This tendency is particularly pronounced in the case of sunscreen products based on organic UV filters derived from triazines.
Les dérivés de triazine, notamment de 1,3,5-triazine, 1,2,4-triazine et 1,2,3-triazine, correspondent aux filtres solaires autorisés par la règlementation européenne répondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, ou encore bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. Cette catégorie de filtres solaires organiques possède des propriétés photoprotectrices très intéressantes et est considérée globalement peu écotoxique et sûre pour l’utilisation humaine. Cependant, la présence dans ces composés de nombreux cycles aromatiques ainsi que d’hétérocycles favorise leur recristallisation ; ces cristaux peuvent par la suite agir comme germes pour la recristallisation d’autres filtres solaires, ou pour d’autres composants de la formule.Triazine derivatives, in particular 1,3,5-triazine, 1,2,4-triazine and 1,2,3-triazine, correspond to sunscreens authorized by European regulations meeting the following INCI designations: ethylhexyl triazone, tris -biphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine, or even bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine. This category of organic sunscreens has very interesting photoprotective properties and is generally considered not very ecotoxic and safe for human use. However, the presence in these compounds of numerous aromatic rings as well as heterocycles promotes their recrystallization; these crystals can subsequently act as seeds for the recrystallization of other sunscreens, or for other components of the formula.
La solubilisation des filtres UV organiques lipophiles, et en particulier des dérivés de triazines, est obtenue en utilisant des esters ou éthers à chaine carbonée courte ou moyenne, comme le dicaprylyl ether ou le dicaprylyl carbonate, le dibutyl adipate, ou encore le C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Bien que très efficaces et versatiles comme solubilisants, ces composés ne sont cependant pas toujours en mesure de maintenir les filtres solaires organiques lipophiles en solution dans la phase grasse, et d’empêcher la recristallisation des filtres pendant la vie du produit.The solubilization of lipophilic organic UV filters, and in particular triazine derivatives, is obtained by using esters or ethers with a short or medium carbon chain, such as dicaprylyl ether or dicaprylyl carbonate, dibutyl adipate, or even C12-15 alkyl benzoate. Although very effective and versatile as solubilizers, these compounds are not always able to maintain lipophilic organic sunscreens in solution in the fatty phase, and prevent recrystallization of the filters during the life of the product.
Il subsiste donc un besoin évident pour des nouveaux composants huileux qui puissent assurer le maintien en solution des filtres UV organiques sur le long terme et qui soient biodégradables, respectueux de l’environnement et bien tolérés par la peau humaine.There is therefore still an obvious need for new oily components which can ensure the maintenance in solution of organic UV filters over the long term and which are biodegradable, respectful of the environment and well tolerated by human skin.
Le Demandeur a constaté qu’une composition comprenant un copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale permet de répondre aux besoins mentionnés précédemment (maintien en solution de filtres UV organiques lipophiles, appréciation galénique, biodégradabilité, tolérance cutanée).The Applicant has found that a composition comprising a biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin makes it possible to meet the needs mentioned above (maintenance in solution of lipophilic organic UV filters, galenic appreciation, biodegradability, skin tolerance).
Selon un premier aspect, l’invention concerne une composition solaire comprenant :
- au moins un copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétal ;
- au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile.According to a first aspect, the invention relates to a sunscreen composition comprising:
- at least one biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin;
- at least one lipophilic organic UV filter.
Par « copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale » au sens de l’invention, on désigne un copolymère obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir d’au moins une huile végétale.By “biodegradable oily copolymer of vegetable origin” within the meaning of the invention, is meant a copolymer obtained by copolymerization reaction from at least one vegetable oil.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, le copolymère est obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir d’au moins un végétale choisie parmi les huiles de ricin, les huiles de colza et les huiles de tung.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer is obtained by copolymerization reaction from at least one plant chosen from castor oils, rapeseed oils and tung oils.
A titre d’exemple, les matières premières correspondant aux désignations INCI Bis-Isostearoyl Castor Oil/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Castor Oil/Adipic Acid Copolymer, Castor Oil/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer, Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer ainsi que leurs formes hydrogénées peuvent être employées dans les compositions selon l’invention. Des sources pour ces copolymères sont listées par la international buyer’s guide du Personal Care Product Council (PCPC ; https://buyers.personalcarecouncil.org/jsp/BGSearchPage.jsp).For example, the raw materials corresponding to the INCI designations Bis-Isostearoyl Castor Oil/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Cannabis Seed Oil Dimer Dilinoleyl Esters/Dimer Dilinoleate Copolymer, Castor Oil/Adipic Acid Copolymer, Castor Oil/Dimer Dilinoleic Acid Copolymer, Castor Oil/Sebacic Acid Copolymer, Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer as well as their hydrogenated forms can be used in the compositions according to the invention. Sources for these copolymers are listed by the Personal Care Product Council's international buyer's guide (PCPC; https://buyers.personalcarecouncil.org/jsp/BGSearchPage.jsp).
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, le copolymère est obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir de deux huiles végétales, choisies parmi les huiles de ricin, les huiles de colza et les huiles de tung, avantageusement de l’huile de colza et de l’huile de tung, hydrogénée ou non hydrogénée, avantageusement non hydrogénée.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer is obtained by copolymerization reaction from two vegetable oils, chosen from castor oils, rapeseed oils and tung oils, advantageously rapeseed oil and tung oil, hydrogenated or non-hydrogenated, advantageously non-hydrogenated.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, le copolymère est obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir d’au moins un triglycéride, avantageusement deux triglycérides, issus d’huiles végétales, avantageusement choisies parmi les huiles de ricin, les huiles de colza et les huiles de tung.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the copolymer is obtained by copolymerization reaction from at least one triglyceride, advantageously two triglycerides, derived from vegetable oils, advantageously chosen from castor oils, rapeseed oils and tung oils.
A titre d’exemple, la matière première PHYTOVIE DEFENSE commercialisée par la société Tri-K Industries, Inc. et correspondant à la désignation INCI Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer peut être utilisée dans les compositions selon l’invention.By way of example, the raw material PHYTOVIE DEFENSE marketed by the company Tri-K Industries, Inc. and corresponding to the INCI designation Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer can be used in the compositions according to the invention.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, le au moins un copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale représente au moins 0,5% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement plus de 0,5%.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin represents at least 0.5% by total weight of the composition, advantageously more than 0.5%.
Selon un mode de réalisation différent, le au moins un copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale représente au moins 1% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement plus de 1%.According to a different embodiment, the at least one biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin represents at least 1% by total weight of the composition, advantageously more than 1%.
En pratique, le au moins un copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale représente jusqu’à 5%, voire 10% en poids de la composition.In practice, the at least one biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin represents up to 5%, or even 10% by weight of the composition.
Au sens de l’invention par « filtre UV organique lipophile », on entend tout filtre UV organique, que ce soit UVB, UVA ou à large spectre, qui est exclusivement soluble dans la phase grasse et qui, dans le cas des émulsions, se trouve dans la phase grasse après émulsification. Des exemples non limitatifs de filtres organiques lipophiles adaptés à l’utilisation dans les compositions selon l’invention sont les composés répondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : tris biphenyl triazine, bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, polysilicone-15, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, drometrizole trisiloxane ou leurs mélanges.Within the meaning of the invention, "lipophilic organic UV filter" means any organic UV filter, whether UVB, UVA or broad spectrum, which is exclusively soluble in the fatty phase and which, in the case of emulsions, found in the fatty phase after emulsification. Non-limiting examples of lipophilic organic screening agents suitable for use in the compositions according to the invention are the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: tris biphenyl triazine, bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, homosalate, ethylhexyl salicylate, ethylhexyl triazone, polysilicone-15, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, drometrizole trisiloxane or mixtures thereof.
Selon mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, l’au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile est un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine.According to particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one lipophilic organic UV filter is a sunscreen derived from triazine.
Au sens de l’invention, par « filtre solaire dérivé de triazine », on désigne une molécule capable de filtrer les UV-A et/ou les UV-B et comprenant au moins un hétérocycle aromatique contenant trois atomes d’azote. L’isomère de triazine peut donc correspondre à une 1,2,4-triazine, une 1,3,5-triazine ou une 1,2,3-triazine.Within the meaning of the invention, by “sunscreen derived from triazine”, is meant a molecule capable of filtering out UV-A and/or UV-B and comprising at least one aromatic heterocycle containing three nitrogen atoms. The triazine isomer can therefore correspond to a 1,2,4-triazine, a 1,3,5-triazine or a 1,2,3-triazine.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier de l’invention, le au moins un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine est choisi dans le groupe comprenant les 1,2,4-triazines, les 1,3,5-triazines et les 1,2,3-triazines.According to a particular embodiment of the invention, the at least one sunscreen derived from triazine is chosen from the group comprising 1,2,4-triazines, 1,3,5-triazines and 1,2,3 -triazines.
Avantageusement, le au moins un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine est choisi dans le groupe comprenant les composés correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine et bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine.Advantageously, the at least one sunscreen derived from triazine is chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, ethylhexyl triazone, tris-biphenyl triazine, phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine and bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine.
Des filtres solaires dérivés de triazine aptes à être mis en œuvre dans une composition selon l’invention sont disponibles sur le marché auprès de plusieurs fournisseurs. A titre d’exemple, les matières premières suivantes peuvent être mises en œuvre dans la composition selon l’invention :
- le TINOSORB™ S/TINOSORB™ AQUA commercialisé par la société BASF et correspondant à la désignation INCI bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (numéro CAS : 187393-00-6) ;
-l’ UVASORB™ HEB commercialisé par la société SIGMA 3V et correspondant à la désignation INCI diethylhexyl butamido triazone (numéro CAS 154702-15-5) ;
- le TINOSORB™ A2B commercialisé par la société BASF et correspondant à la désignation INCI tris-biphenyl triazine (no CAS : 31274-51-8) ;
-l’UVINUL™ T150 commercialisé par la société BASF et correspondant à la désignation INCI ethylhexyl triazone (numéro CAS : 88122-99-0) ;
- le TRIASORB™ commercialisé par la société PLANTES & INDUSTRIE et correspondant à la désignation INCI phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (numéro CAS 55514-22-2) ;
- l’UVASORB™ K2A commercialisé par la société SIGMA 3V et correspondant à la désignation INCI bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine (numéro CAS 288254-16-0) ;
- les dérivés de 1,3,5-triazine correspondant aux numéros CAS 2174063-28-4, 2174063-29-5 et 2174063-30-8, décrits dans le document EP 3275872 ;
- la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diéthyle)-s-triazine, la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diisopropyle)-1,3,5-triazine, la 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino benzalmalonate de diméthyle)-1,3,5,triazine ou encore la 2,4,6-tris(a-cyano-4-aminocinnamate d'éthyle)-1,3,5-triazine. Ces molécules sont décrites dans le document EP0507692.Triazine-derived sunscreens suitable for use in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:
- TINOSORB™ S/TINOSORB™ AQUA marketed by BASF and corresponding to the INCI designation bis ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine (CAS number: 187393-00-6);
the UVASORB™ HEB marketed by the company SIGMA 3V and corresponding to the INCI designation diethylhexyl butamido triazone (CAS number 154702-15-5);
- TINOSORB™ A2B marketed by BASF and corresponding to the INCI designation tris-biphenyl triazine (CAS no: 31274-51-8);
- UVINUL™ T150 marketed by BASF and corresponding to the INCI designation ethylhexyl triazone (CAS number: 88122-99-0);
- the TRIASORB™ marketed by the company PLANTES & INDUSTRIE and corresponding to the INCI designation phenylene bis-diphenyltriazine (CAS number 55514-22-2);
- UVASORB™ K2A marketed by the company SIGMA 3V and corresponding to the INCI designation bis-isopentylbenzoxazolylphenyl melamine (CAS number 288254-16-0);
- 1,3,5-triazine derivatives corresponding to CAS numbers 2174063-28-4, 2174063-29-5 and 2174063-30-8, described in document EP 3275872;
- 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino diethyl benzalmalonate)-s-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(4'-amino diisopropyl benzalmalonate)-1,3,5-triazine, 2,4,6-tris(dimethyl 4'-amino benzalmalonate)-1,3,5,triazine or 2,4,6-tris(ethyl a-cyano-4-aminocinnamate)-1,3 ,5-triazine. These molecules are described in document EP0507692.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins deux filtres solaires dérivés de triazine différents, voire au moins trois filtres solaires dérivés de triazine différents.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least two sunscreens derived from different triazines, or even at least three sunscreens derived from different triazines.
De préférence, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins les filtres solaires dérivés de triazine correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, et ethylhexyl triazone.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises at least the triazine-derived sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: bis-ethylhexyloxyphenol methoxyphenyl triazine, diethylhexyl butamido triazone, and ethylhexyl triazone.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le au moins un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine représente entre 2% et 50% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement entre 5% et 40%, de préférence entre 10% et 30%.According to a particular embodiment, the at least one sunscreen derived from triazine represents between 2% and 50% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 5% and 40%, preferably between 10% and 30%.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le au moins un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine représente plus de 10% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement plus de 12%, de préférence plus de 15%.According to a particular embodiment, the at least one sunscreen derived from triazine represents more than 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously more than 12%, preferably more than 15%.
Il ressort de ce qui précède que le au moins un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine peut représenter entre 12% et 50% en poids de la composition, ou encore entre 15% et 50%.It emerges from the above that the at least one sunscreen derived from triazine can represent between 12% and 50% by weight of the composition, or even between 15% and 50%.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, outre le au moins un filtre solaire dérivé de triazine, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins un filtre UVA organique, qui peut se présenter en phase aqueuse (hydrophile) et/ou huileuse (lipophile).According to a particular embodiment, in addition to the at least one triazine-derived sunscreen, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one organic UVA screener, which may be in the aqueous (hydrophilic) and/or oily (lipophilic) phase.
Par «filtre UVA organique » au sens d l’invention on entend tout filtre organique absorbant principalement ou exclusivement dans l’UVA.By "organic UVA filter" within the meaning of the invention is meant any organic filter absorbing mainly or exclusively in the UVA.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins un filtre solaire UV-A choisi dans le groupe comprenant les composés correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine, disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate et leurs mélanges.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one UV-A sunscreen chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate, bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine , disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate and mixtures thereof.
A titre d’exemple, les filtres UV-A selon l’invention correspondent à la matière première Parsol™ 1789 (INCI : butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) commercialisée par la société DSM, UVINUL™ A+ (INCI : diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) commercialisée par la société BASF ou encore la matière première C1332 (INCI : bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoyl benzoyl) piperazine ; numéro CAS 919803-06-8) commercialisée par la société BASF.By way of example, the UV-A filters according to the invention correspond to the raw material Parsol™ 1789 (INCI: butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane) marketed by the company DSM, UVINUL™ A+ (INCI: diethylamino hydroxybenzoyl hexyl benzoate) marketed by the company BASF or the raw material C1332 (INCI: bis-(diethylaminohydroxybenzoylbenzoyl)piperazine; CAS number 919803-06-8) marketed by the company BASF.
Avantageusement, la composition selon l’invention comprend un filtre UV-A correspondant à la désignation INCI disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, notamment disponible sous la dénomination Neo Heliopan™ AP et commercialisé par la société SYMRISE.Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises a UV-A screening agent corresponding to the INCI designation disodium phenyl dibenzimidazole tetrasulfonate, in particular available under the name Neo Heliopan™ AP and marketed by the company SYMRISE.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention est exempte des filtres solaires correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate et octocrylene.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is free of sunscreens corresponding to the following INCI designations: 4-methylbenzylidene camphor, benzophenone-2, benzophenone-3, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate and octocrylene.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend des écrans minéraux (ou filtres minéraux inorganiques), qui correspondent à des oxydes métalliques et/ou d'autres composés difficilement solubles ou insolubles dans l'eau, en particulier les oxydes de titane (TiO2), de zinc (ZnO), de fer (Fe2O3), de zirconium (ZrO2), de silicium (SiO2), de manganèse (par exemple MnO), d'aluminium (Al2O3), ou de cérium (Ce2O3), le trioxyde de bismuth (Bi2O3), ou encore l’oxychlorure de bismuth (BiOCl).According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises mineral screens (or inorganic mineral filters), which correspond to metal oxides and/or other compounds that are not easily soluble or insoluble in water, in particular oxides titanium (TiO 2 ), zinc (ZnO), iron (Fe 2 O 3 ), zirconium (ZrO 2 ), silicon (SiO 2 ), manganese (for example MnO), aluminum (Al 2 O 3 ), or cerium (Ce 2 O 3 ), bismuth trioxide (Bi 2 O 3 ), or even bismuth oxychloride (BiOCl).
Les filtres minéraux inorganiques peuvent également être traités en surface ou encapsulés, afin de leur conférer un caractère hydrophile, amphiphile ou hydrophobe. Ce traitement de surface peut consister en ce que les filtres minéraux soient dotés d'une mince pellicule inorganique et/ou organique hydrophile et/ou hydrophobe.Inorganic mineral filters can also be surface-treated or encapsulated, in order to give them a hydrophilic, amphiphilic or hydrophobic character. This surface treatment may consist in the mineral filters being provided with a thin hydrophilic and/or hydrophobic inorganic and/or organic film.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins un écran minéral choisi dans le groupe comprenant les composés correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : zinc oxide, titanium dioxide et leurs mélanges.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one mineral screen chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: zinc oxide, titanium dioxide and their mixtures.
A titre d’exemple, le zinc oxide correspond à la matière première Z-COTE™ LSA et le titanium dioxide à la matière première T-Lite™, commercialisées par la société BASF.For example, zinc oxide corresponds to the raw material Z-COTE™ LSA and titanium dioxide to the raw material T-Lite™, marketed by BASF.
Les listes des filtres UV cités pouvant être mis en œuvre au sens de la présente invention sont bien entendu donnés à titre indicatif et non limitatif.The lists of UV filters mentioned that can be implemented within the meaning of the present invention are of course given as an indication and not limiting.
De manière avantageuse, le au moins un filtre solaire et/ou écran minéral, à l’exception du ou des filtres solaire UV lipophiles, représente entre 0,1 et 30 % en poids total de la composition selon l’invention, avantageusement entre 0,5 et 20 %, encore plus avantageusement entre 1 et 15%.Advantageously, the at least one sunscreen and/or mineral screen, with the exception of the lipophilic UV sunscreen(s), represents between 0.1 and 30% by total weight of the composition according to the invention, advantageously between 0 5 and 20%, even more advantageously between 1 and 15%.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend en outre au moins un solubilisant de filtres organiques UV lipophiles.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least one solubilizer for lipophilic organic UV screening agents.
Au sens de l’invention, par « solubilisant de filtres organiques UV lipophiles », on désigne un composé qui permet de solubiliser, disperser et/ou dissoudre au moins un filtres organique UV lipophile de manière efficace et durable, c’est-à-dire en le stabilisant sous sa forme solubilisée et en empêchant ou réduisant sa recristallisation ou précipitation en formulation pendant toute la durée d’utilisation du produit (généralement, le produit doit être stable au moins 1 an après son ouverture).Within the meaning of the invention, the term "solubilizer of lipophilic organic UV screening agents" denotes a compound which makes it possible to solubilize, disperse and/or dissolve at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent in an effective and lasting manner, that is to i.e. stabilizing it in its solubilized form and preventing or reducing its recrystallization or precipitation in formulation throughout the life of the product (generally, the product should be stable for at least 1 year after opening).
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins un solubilisant de filtres organiques UV lipophiles choisi dans le groupe comprenant les composés correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin, C12-13alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, C12-15alkyl lactate, C12-13alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate caprylic/capric triglicerides, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl maolnate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide et phenethyl benzoate.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least one solubilizer for lipophilic organic UV screening agents chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, C 12-15 alkyl lactate, C 12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate caprylic/capric triglicerides, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl maolnate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide and phenethyl benzoate.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend en outre au moins deux solubilisants de filtres organiques UV lipophiles choisis dans le groupe comprenant les composés correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate,dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin, C12-13alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, C12-15alkyl lactate, C12-13alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate caprylic/capric triglicerides, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate, hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl maolnate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide et phenethyl benzoate.According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention also comprises at least two solubilizers for lipophilic organic UV screening agents chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, diisopropyl sebacate, caprylyl caprylate/ caprate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C 12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate, butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, dipropylene glycol dibenzoate, neopentyl glycol diheptanoate, triheptanoin, C 12-13 alkyl lactate, ethylhexyl benzoate, C 12-15 alkyl lactate, C 12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate, lauryl lactate, diethyl adipate caprylic/capric triglicerides, diisobutyl adipate, diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate, propanediol dicaprylate, propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate, isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate, propylene glycol dibenzoate , hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl maolnate, phenoxyethyl caprylate, isodecyl salicylate, dimethyl capramide and phenethyl benzoate.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins les solubilisants de filtres organiques UV lipophiles correspondant aux désignations INCI : dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate et C12-15alkyl benzoate.According to one particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least the solubilizers for lipophilic organic UV screening agents corresponding to the INCI designations: dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate and C 12-15 alkyl benzoate.
Selon un mode de réalisation alternatif, la composition selon l’invention comprend au moins les solubilisants de filtres organiques UV lipophiles correspondant aux désignations INCI : dicaprylyl carbonate et diisopropyl sebacate.According to an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises at least the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV screening agents corresponding to the INCI designations: dicaprylyl carbonate and diisopropyl sebacate.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, les solubilisants de filtres organiques UV lipophiles représentent entre 5% et 80% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement entre 10% et 70%, de préférence entre 15% et 60%.According to a particular embodiment, the solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV screening agents represent between 5% and 80% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 10% and 70%, preferably between 15% and 60%.
Des solubilisants aptes à être mis en œuvre dans une composition selon l’invention sont disponibles sur le marché auprès de plusieurs fournisseurs. A titre d’exemple, les matières premières suivantes peuvent être mises en œuvre dans la composition selon l’invention:
- Plusieurs matières premières de la gamme CETIOL™ commercialisées par la société BASF, notamment le CETIOL™ RLF, CETIOL™ B, CETIOL™ CC, CETIOL™ O, CETIOL™ C5, CETIOL™ AB, CETIOL™ SENSOFT correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate;
-le DUB™ DIS, DEA, DIBA, ZENOAT commercialisés par la société STEARINE DUBOIS correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate et propanediol dicaprylate;
- Le MIGLYOL™ 8810 et T-C7 commercialisés par la société IOI Oleo GmbH correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate e triheptanoin;
- Le Lexsolv™ A commercialisé par la société INOLEX correspondant aux désignations INCI dipropylene glycol dibenzoate et neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
- Les COSMACOL™ ELI, ETI, ESI et LL commercialisés par la société SASOL et correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI C12-13 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate et lauryl lactate;
- Le Ceraphyl™ 41 ester commercialisé par la société ASHLAND et correspondant aux désignations INCI C12-C15 alkyl lactate;
- Les Finsolv™ EB et PG 22 commercialisés par la société INNOSPEC et correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI, ethylhexyl benzoate et dipropylene glycol dibenzoate;
- Les CRODAMOL™ DA, DOA, OSU et PC commercialisés par la société CRODA et correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate et propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate;
- Le ELDEW™ SL-205 commercialisé par la société AJINOMOTO et correspondant à la désignation INCI isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate;
- Le Lexfeel™ Shine commercialisé par la société INOLEX et correspondant à la désignation INCI propylene glycol dibenzoate;
- Le TEGOSOFT™ XC et CT commercialisés par la société EVONIK et correspondant à la désignation INCI phenoxyethyl caprylate et caprylic/capric triglicerides;
- Le RONACARE™ AP commercialisé par la société MERCK KGaA et correspondant à la designation INCI hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate;
- Le DERMOL™ IDSA commercialisé par la société Alzo INTL et correspondant à la désignation INCI isodecyl salicylate;
- Le Spectrasolv™ DMDA commercialisé par la société Hallstar et correspondant à la designation INCU dimethyl capramide;
- Le X-TEND™ 226 commercialisé par la société Ashland et correspondant à la désignation INCI phenethyl benzoate.Solubilizers capable of being implemented in a composition according to the invention are available on the market from several suppliers. By way of example, the following raw materials can be used in the composition according to the invention:
- Several raw materials from the CETIOL™ range marketed by BASF, in particular CETIOL™ RLF, CETIOL™ B, CETIOL™ CC, CETIOL™ O, CETIOL™ C5, CETIOL™ AB, CETIOL™ SENSOFT corresponding respectively to the INCI designations caprylyl caprylate/caprate, dibutyl adipate, dicaprylyl carbonate, dicaprylyl ether, coco-caprylate, C12-15 alkyl benzoate, propylheptyl caprylate;
the DUB™ DIS, DEA, DIBA, ZENOAT marketed by the company STEARINE DUBOIS corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl sebacate, diethyl adipate, diisobutyl adipate and propanediol dicaprylate;
- MIGLYOL™ 8810 and T-C7 marketed by the company IOI Oleo GmbH corresponding respectively to the INCI designations butylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate and triheptanoin;
- Lexsolv™ A marketed by the company INOLEX corresponding to the INCI designations dipropylene glycol dibenzoate and neopentyl glycol diheptanoate;
- The COSMACOL™ ELI, ETI, ESI and LL marketed by SASOL and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations C12-13 alkyl lactate, C12-13 alkyl tartrate, tridecyl salicylate and lauryl lactate;
- The Ceraphyl™ 41 ester marketed by the company ASHLAND and corresponding to the INCI designations C12-C15 alkyl lactate;
- Finsolv™ EB and PG 22 marketed by INNOSPEC and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations, ethylhexyl benzoate and dipropylene glycol dibenzoate;
- The CRODAMOL™ DA, DOA, OSU and PC marketed by the company CRODA and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations diisopropyl adipate, diethylhexyl adipate, diethylhexyl succinate and propylene glycol dicaprylate/dicaprate;
- ELDEW™ SL-205 marketed by the company AJINOMOTO and corresponding to the INCI designation isopropyl lauroyl sarcosinate;
- Lexfeel™ Shine marketed by the company INOLEX and corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol dibenzoate;
- TEGOSOFT™ XC and CT marketed by the company EVONIK and corresponding to the INCI designation phenoxyethyl caprylate and caprylic/capric triglicerides;
- RONACARE™ AP marketed by MERCK KGaA and corresponding to the INCI designation hydroxyl dimethoxybenzyl malonate;
- DERMOL™ IDSA marketed by the company Alzo INTL and corresponding to the INCI designation isodecyl salicylate;
- Spectrasolv™ DMDA marketed by Hallstar and corresponding to the INCU designation dimethyl capramide;
- X-TEND™ 226 marketed by the company Ashland and corresponding to the INCI designation phenethyl benzoate.
La composition de l'invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utilisées dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique et compatibles avec la formulation d’une phase grasse, c’est-à-dire, d'une émulsion H/E ou inversement E/H, plus ou moins fluide, ou d'une émulsion multiple comme par exemple une émulsion triple (E/H/E ou H/E/H), ou encore sous la forme d'une dispersion vésiculaire de type ionique (liposomes) et/ou non ionique, d’une composition biphasée dépourvue d’émulsionnants et gélifiants dont les phases immiscibles se séparent pendant le stockage, de mousse, de stick, d’huile anhydre, de spray ou de brume.The composition of the invention can be in all the galenic forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields and compatible with the formulation of a fatty phase, that is to say, of an O/W emulsion or vice versa. W/O, more or less fluid, or of a multiple emulsion such as for example a triple emulsion (W/O/W or O/W/O), or even in the form of a vesicular dispersion of the ionic type (liposomes ) and/or nonionic, of a two-phase composition devoid of emulsifiers and gelling agents, the immiscible phases of which separate during storage, of foam, of stick, of anhydrous oil, of spray or mist.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend entre 0,1% et 5% en poids total de la composition d’émulsionnant, avantageusement entre 0,5% et 3%.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.1% and 5% by total weight of the emulsifier composition, advantageously between 0.5% and 3%.
Les émulsionnants inclus dans la composition peuvent être tous les émulsionnants H/E ou E/H connus à l’homme du métier pour l’utilisation dans les compositions solaires.The emulsifiers included in the composition can be any O/W or W/O emulsifier known to those skilled in the art for use in sunscreen compositions.
Au sens de l’invention, par « émulsionnant H/E », on entend tous composé ayant des propriétés émulsionnantes permettant de réaliser des émulsions huile-dans-eau.Within the meaning of the invention, by “O/W emulsifier” is meant any compound having emulsifying properties making it possible to produce oil-in-water emulsions.
Avantageusement, les émulsions H/E selon l’invention comprennent un émulsionnant choisi dans le groupe suivant de composés identifiés par leur désignation INCI : sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, C20-22alkyl phosphate/C20-22alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C14-22alcohols/ C12-20alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate et leurs mélanges. Ces matières premières sont disponibles auprès de plusieurs fournisseurs.Advantageously, the O/W emulsions according to the invention comprise an emulsifier chosen from the following group of compounds identified by their INCI designation: sodium stearoyl glutamate, potassium cetyl phosphate, glyceryl stearate, C 20-22 alkyl phosphate/C 20-22 alkyl alcohols, tribehenin PEG-20 esters, C 14-22 alcohols/ C 12-20 alkyl glucoside, cetearyl alcohol, coco-glucoside, polyglyceryl-6 stearate, polyglyceryl-6 behenate and mixtures thereof. These raw materials are available from several suppliers.
A titre d’exemple, les matières premières EMULGIN SG (INCI : sodium stearoyl glutamate ; fournisseur : BASF) ; EMULIUM 22 (INCI : tribehenin PEG-20 esters ; fournisseur GATTEFOSSE) ; SENSANOV WR (INCI : C20-22 alkylphosphate/C20-22alkyl alcohols ; fournisseur : SEPPIC) ; MONTANOV L (INCI :C14-22alcohols/ C12-20alkyl glucoside), AMPHISOL K (INCI : potassium cetyl phosphate ; fournisseur : DSM), MONTANOV 82 (INCI : cetearyl alcohol/coco-glucoside ; fournisseur : SEPPIC) et TEGO™ Care PBS 6 MB (polyglyceryl-6 stearate et polyglyceryl-6 behenate ) peuvent être employées dans les compositions selon l’invention en qualité d’émulsionnants H/E.By way of example, the raw materials EMULGIN SG (INCI: sodium stearoyl glutamate; supplier: BASF); EMULIUM 22 (INCI: tribehenin PEG-20 esters; supplier GATTEFOSSE); SENSANOV WR (INCI: C20-22 alkylphosphate/ C20-22 alkyl alcohols; supplier: SEPPIC); MONTANOV L (INCI: C 14-22 alcohols/ C 12-20 alkyl glucoside), AMPHISOL K (INCI: potassium cetyl phosphate; supplier: DSM), MONTANOV 82 (INCI: cetearyl alcohol/coco-glucoside; supplier: SEPPIC) and TEGO™ Care PBS 6 MB (polyglyceryl-6 stearate and polyglyceryl-6 behenate) can be used in the compositions according to the invention as O/W emulsifiers.
Au sens de l’invention, par « émulsionnant E/H », on entend tous composé ayant des propriétés émulsionnantes permettant de réaliser des émulsions eau-dans-huile.Within the meaning of the invention, by "W/O emulsifier" is meant any compound having emulsifying properties making it possible to produce water-in-oil emulsions.
Avantageusement, les émulsions E/H selon l’invention comprennent le PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI), ou le polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate en qualité d’émulsionnants. Ces matières premières sont disponibles respectivement auprès de CRODA sous le nom commercial de Cithrol DPHS et auprès d’EVONIK sous nom d’Isolan GPS.Advantageously, the W/O emulsions according to the invention comprise PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate (INCI), or polyglyceryl-4 diisostearate/polyhydroxystearate/sebacate as emulsifiers. These raw materials are available respectively from CRODA under the trade name Cithrol DPHS and from EVONIK under the trade name Isolan GPS.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention présente un SPF égal ou supérieur à 30, avantageusement égal ou supérieur à 50, de préférence égal ou supérieur à 70, voire égal ou supérieur à 100.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention has an SPF equal to or greater than 30, advantageously equal to or greater than 50, preferably equal to or greater than 70, or even equal to or greater than 100.
Selon un mode de réalisation préféré, la composition selon l’invention comporte un ratio de protection UV-A/UV-B égal ou supérieur à 1/3.According to a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises a UV-A/UV-B protection ratio equal to or greater than 1/3.
Avantageusement, la composition selon l’invention présente une longueur d’onde critique (λc) supérieure à 370 nm. Cette valeur, qui est déterminée par des méthodes in vitro connues de l’homme du métier, correspond à la longueur d’onde pour laquelle l’intégrale de la courbe du spectre d’absorption commençant à 290 nm atteint 90 % de l’intégrale entre 290 et 400 nm.Advantageously, the composition according to the invention has a critical wavelength (λc) greater than 370 nm. This value, which is determined by in vitro methods known to those skilled in the art, corresponds to the wavelength for which the integral of the curve of the absorption spectrum starting at 290 nm reaches 90% of the integral between 290 and 400 nm.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention peut en outre comprendre un « booster » de SPF, c’est-à-dire un agent amplificateur du facteur de protection solaire, et/ou un photostabilisant, c’est à dire un ingrédient qui permet d’augmenter le SPF ou de photostabiliser les filtres, un tel ingrédient n’étant pas considéré lui-même comme un filtre solaire. On peut par exemple citer :
- le butyloctyl salicylate (INCI), photostabilisant représentant avantageusement entre 0,01% et 10% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement ente 0,1% et 2%. Cette matière première est, par exemple, commercialisée par la société HALLSTAR sous le nom de Hallbrite™ BHB;
- le benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (INCI), photostabilisant représentant avantageusement entre 0,01% et 10% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement entre 0,1% et 2%. Cette matière première est, par exemple, commercialisée par la société BASF sous le nom de TINOGARD™ TL ;
- le pongamol (INCI), molécule végétale absorbant dans les UV-A, représentant avantageusement entre 0,5 et 2% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement de l’ordre de 1%. A titre d’exemple, la matière première Pongamia Extract commercialisée par la société GIVAUDAN peut être utilisée dans le cadre la présente invention ;
- l’ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (INCI), photostabilisant, solubilisant et « booster » de SPF représentant avantageusement entre 1% et 5% en poids total de la composition. La matière première SolaStay® S1 commercialisée par la société HALLSTAR peut être utilisée dans le cadre de la présente invention ;
- un copolymère de styrène acrylate (INCI : styrene/acrylate copolymer), représentant de préférence entre 1% et 10% en poids total de la composition selon l’invention. Les matières premières SunSpheres® H53 et SunSpheres® PGL Polymer, commercialisées par la société DOW CHEMICALS, peuvent être utilisées dans le cadre de la présente invention ;
- le diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (INCI), représentant avantageusement entre 1% et 10% en poids total de la composition. La matière première OXYNET® ST, commercialisée par la société MERCK, peut être utilisée dans le cadre de la présente invention ;
- un polyester hydrodispersible, correspondant aux désignations INCI polyester-5 (and) Sodium silicoaluminate, représentant avantageusement entre 1% et 10% en poids total de la composition, notamment l’EASTMANN AQTM38S Polymer commercialisé par la société SAFIC-ALCAN ;
- un copolymère d'acrylate ayant une température de transition vitreuse de -5°C à -15°C telle que mesurée par calorimétrie différentielle à balayage, ledit copolymère représentant avantageusement entre 1% et 10% en poids total de la composition. Par exemple, un polymère correspondant à la désignation INCI Acrylate copolymer, tel que la matière première EPITEX 66, commercialisée par la société DOW CHEMICALS, peut être utilisée dans le cadre de la présente invention.
- au moins un acide aminé analogue de la mycosporine décrit dans les demandes de brevet WO2013181741A1 et WO2021168582A1 et en particulier les molécules correspondant aux numéros CAS 2699611-33-9, 1629023-04-6, 1509902-01-5, 1629023-01-3 ou encore aux désignations INCI methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, également connues sous les noms de EK™-14, EK™-17 et EK™-20 et EK™-17-3 commercialisés par les sociétés ELKIMIA et/ou SENSIENT.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an SPF "booster", that is to say an agent for enhancing the sun protection factor, and/or a photostabilizer, that is to say an ingredient which makes it possible to increase the SPF or to stabilize the filters, such an ingredient not being considered itself as a sunscreen. For example, we can cite:
- butyloctyl salicylate (INCI), photostabilizer advantageously representing between 0.01% and 10% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 2%. This raw material is, for example, marketed by the company HALLSTAR under the name Hallbrite™ BHB;
- benzotriazolyl dodecyl p-cresol (INCI), photostabilizer advantageously representing between 0.01% and 10% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously between 0.1% and 2%. This raw material is, for example, marketed by the company BASF under the name of TINOGARD™ TL;
- pongamol (INCI), plant molecule absorbing in UV-A, advantageously representing between 0.5 and 2% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously of the order of 1%. By way of example, the raw material Pongamia Extract marketed by the company GIVAUDAN can be used in the context of the present invention;
- ethylhexyl methoxycrylene (INCI), photostabilizer, solubilizer and SPF “booster” advantageously representing between 1% and 5% by total weight of the composition. The SolaStay® S1 raw material sold by the company HALLSTAR can be used in the context of the present invention;
- a styrene acrylate copolymer (INCI: styrene/acrylate copolymer), preferably representing between 1% and 10% by total weight of the composition according to the invention. The raw materials SunSpheres® H53 and SunSpheres® PGL Polymer, marketed by the company DOW CHEMICALS, can be used in the context of the present invention;
- diethylhexyl syringylidene malonate (INCI), advantageously representing between 1% and 10% by total weight of the composition. The raw material OXYNET® ST, marketed by the company MERCK, can be used in the context of the present invention;
- a water-dispersible polyester, corresponding to the INCI designations polyester-5 (and) Sodium silicoaluminate, advantageously representing between 1% and 10% by total weight of the composition, in particular EASTMANN AQTM38S Polymer marketed by the company SAFIC-ALCAN;
- an acrylate copolymer having a glass transition temperature of -5° C. to -15° C. as measured by differential scanning calorimetry, said copolymer advantageously representing between 1% and 10% by total weight of the composition. For example, a polymer corresponding to the INCI designation Arylate copolymer, such as the raw material EPITEX 66, marketed by the company DOW CHEMICALS, can be used in the context of the present invention.
- at least one amino acid analogue of mycosporin described in patent applications WO2013181741A1 and WO2021168582A1 and in particular the molecules corresponding to CAS numbers 2699611-33-9, 1629023-04-6, 1509902-01-5, 1629023-01- 3 or the INCI designations methoxyphenylimino dimethylcyclohexene glycine, caprylyloxyphenylamino dimethyltetrahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, methoxyphenylimino dimethylhexahydro benzothiazine carboxylic acid, also known as EK™-14, EK™-17 and EK™-20 and EK™-17-3 marketed by ELKIMIA and/or SENSIENT.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la phase grasse de la composition selon l’invention représente entre 20% et 70% en poids total de la composition de phase grasse, avantageusement ente 30% et 60%.According to a particular embodiment, the fatty phase of the composition according to the invention represents between 20% and 70% by total weight of the fatty phase composition, advantageously between 30% and 60%.
Au sens de l’invention, par « phase grasse », on désigne l’ensemble des ingrédients constitué par les filtres solaires lipophiles, les actifs lipophiles et les solubilisants de filtres organiques UV lipophiles ainsi que les autres excipients lipophiles.Within the meaning of the invention, by “fatty phase”, is meant all the ingredients consisting of lipophilic sunscreens, lipophilic active agents and solubilizers of lipophilic organic UV filters as well as the other lipophilic excipients.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la phase aqueuse de la composition selon l’invention représente entre 30% et 80% en poids total de la composition de phase grasse, avantageusement ente 40% et 70%.According to a particular embodiment, the aqueous phase of the composition according to the invention represents between 30% and 80% by total weight of the fatty phase composition, advantageously between 40% and 70%.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, la composition selon l’invention peut comprendre, en outre, un extrait de la bactérieArthrobacter agilis ,notamment un extrait riche en caroténoïdes, tel que décrit dans le document WO 2014/167247. Avantageusement, la composition selon l’invention comprend de 0,00001% à 0,1% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement de 0,0001% à 0,001 % d’un tel extrait sec.According to another embodiment, the composition according to the invention may also comprise an extract of the bacterium Arthrobacter agilis , in particular an extract rich in carotenoids, as described in document WO 2014/167247. Advantageously, the composition according to the invention comprises from 0.00001% to 0.1% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously from 0.0001% to 0.001% of such a dry extract.
Dans un mode de réalisation privilégié, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en outre, d’autres composants pouvant contribuer à la protection interne par une action qui peut consister en une protection de l'ADN, une diminution de l'immunosuppression induite par les radiations UV, une action antiradicalaire ou un effet combiné de ces actions.In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises other components which may contribute to internal protection by an action which may consist of DNA protection, a reduction in the immunosuppression induced by UV radiation, an antiradical action or a combined effect of these actions.
L'action protectrice d’une préparation selon l’invention contre le stress oxydatif ou à l'encontre de l'effet des radicaux libres peut être encore améliorée si celle-ci comprend, en outre, un ou plusieurs antioxydants, aisément sélectionnés par l'homme du métier par exemple dans la liste suivante : le totarol, le magnolol, l’honokiol, les acides aminés et leurs dérivés, des peptides (D et/ou L-carnosine) et leurs dérivés (par exemple l’ansérine, l’hypotaurine, la taurine), les caroténoïdes, les carotènes (α-carotène, β-carotène, lycopène) et leurs dérivés, l'acide chlorogénique et ses dérivés, l'acide lipoïque et ses dérivés (acide dihydrolipoïque), l’aurothioglucose, le propylthiouracile et autres thiols (thiorédoxine, glutathion, cystéine, cystine, cystamine et leurs esters glycosyle, N-acétyle, méthyle, éthyle, propyle, amyle, butyle et lauryle, palmitoyle, oléyle, γ-linoléique, cholestéryle et glycéryle) ainsi que des sels de ceux-ci, le thiodipropionate de dilauryle, le thiodipropionate de distéaryle, l'acide thiodipropionique et ses dérivés, les composés sulfoximine (sulfoximine de buthionine, l'homocystéine sulfoximine, les buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- et heptathionine sulfoximine), des agents chélatants (tels que les acides α-hydroxygras, l'acide palmitique, l'acide phytique, la lactoferrine), les α-hydroxyacides (tels que l'acide citrique, lactique, ou malique), l'acide humique, l'acide biliaire, les extraits de bile, la bilirubine, la biliverdine, le tétraméthylène phosphonate pentasodique d'éthylènediamine et ses dérivés, les acides gras insaturés et leurs dérivés, la vitamine A et ses dérivés (palmitate de vitamine A), le benzoate de coniféryle de la résine de benjoin, l'acide rutinique et ses dérivés, l'α-glycosyl rutine, l’acide férulique et ses dérivés, le furfurylideneglucitol, la carnosine, le butylhydroxytoluène, le butylhydroxyanisole, l'acide nordihydroguaiarétique, trihydroxybutyrophenone, la quercétine, l'acide urique et ses dérivés, le mannose et les dérivés de ceux-ci, le zinc et ses dérivés (ZnO, ZnSO4), le sélénium et ses dérivés (sélénométhionine), les stilbènes et leurs dérivés (l'oxyde de stilbène, l'oxyde trans-stilbène).The protective action of a preparation according to the invention against oxidative stress or against the effect of free radicals can be further improved if the latter additionally comprises one or more antioxidants, easily selected by the skilled in the art, for example from the following list: totarol, magnolol, honokiol, amino acids and their derivatives, peptides (D and/or L-carnosine) and their derivatives (for example anserine, l hypotaurine, taurine), carotenoids, carotenes (α-carotene, β-carotene, lycopene) and their derivatives, chlorogenic acid and its derivatives, lipoic acid and its derivatives (dihydrolipoic acid), aurothioglucose , propylthiouracil and other thiols (thioredoxin, glutathione, cysteine, cystine, cystamine and their glycosyl, N-acetyl, methyl, ethyl, propyl, amyl, butyl and lauryl, palmitoyl, oleyl, γ-linoleic, cholesterol and glyceryl esters) as well as as salts thereof, dilauryl thiodipropionate, distearyl thiodipropionate, thiodipropionic acid and its derivatives, sulfoximine compounds (buthionine sulfoximine, homocysteine sulfoximine, buthionine sulfones, penta-, hexa- and heptathionine sulfoximine), chelating agents (such as α-hydroxy fatty acids, palmitic acid, phytic acid, lactoferrin), α-hydroxy acids (such as citric, lactic, or malic acid), humic, bile acid, bile extracts, bilirubin, biliverdin, ethylenediamine pentasodium tetramethylene phosphonate and its derivatives, unsaturated fatty acids and their derivatives, vitamin A and its derivatives (vitamin A palmitate), benzoin resin coniferyl benzoate, rutinic acid and its derivatives, α-glycosyl rutin, ferulic acid and its derivatives, furfurylideneglucitol, carnosine, butylhydroxytoluene, butylhydroxyanisole, nordihydroguaiaretic acid, trihydroxybutyrophenone, quercetin, uric acid and its derivatives, mannose and its derivatives, zinc and its derivatives (ZnO, ZnSO 4 ), selenium and its derivatives (selenomethionine), stilbenes and their derivatives ( stilbene oxide, trans-stilbene oxide).
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en outre, de l’acide glycyrrhétinique, un dérivé ou un sel de cet acide, ou encore l’acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester (INCI) utilisés comme agents anti-inflammatoires et représentant globalement entre 0,01% et 2 % en poids total de la composition, de préférence entre 0,1% et 1%.In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises glycyrrhetinic acid, a derivative or a salt of this acid, or else acetyl dipeptide-1 cetyl ester (INCI) used as anti-inflammatory agents. -inflammatory and globally representing between 0.01% and 2% by total weight of the composition, preferably between 0.1% and 1%.
Selon une autre caractéristique privilégiée de l'invention, la composition cosmétique et/ou dermatologique comprend au moins un, voire tous les constituants suivants exerçant une activité biologiquein vivosur les cellules de la peau, des lèvres, des cheveux et/ou des muqueuses soumises à un rayonnement UV-A et/ou UV-B, respectivement :
- un agent antiradicalaire préservant les structures cellulaires, tel que par exemple la vitamine E et/ou ses dérivés liposolubles ou hydrosolubles, en particulier le tocotriénol et/ou le tocophérol, représentant avantageusement entre 0,001 et 10% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement entre 0,02 et 2%, de préférence de l'ordre de 0,04%;
- un agent limitant l'immunosuppression, tel que par exemple la vitamine PP, représentant avantageusement entre 0,001 et 1% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement de 0,01% à 0,3%;
- un agent protecteur de la protéine p53, tel que par exemple l'épigallocatéchine gallate (EGCG), représentant avantageusement entre 0,001 et 0,1% en poids total de la composition, encore plus avantageusement de 0,005% à 0,05%.According to another preferred characteristic of the invention, the cosmetic and/or dermatological composition comprises at least one, or even all of the following constituents exerting a biological activity in vivo on the cells of the skin, lips, hair and/or mucous membranes subjected to UV-A and/or UV-B radiation, respectively:
- an anti-radical agent preserving cell structures, such as for example vitamin E and/or its fat-soluble or water-soluble derivatives, in particular tocotrienol and/or tocopherol, advantageously representing between 0.001 and 10% by total weight of the composition, again more advantageously between 0.02 and 2%, preferably of the order of 0.04%;
- an agent limiting immunosuppression, such as for example vitamin PP, advantageously representing between 0.001 and 1% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously from 0.01% to 0.3%;
- a protective agent for the p53 protein, such as for example epigallocatechin gallate (EGCG), advantageously representing between 0.001 and 0.1% by total weight of the composition, even more advantageously from 0.005% to 0.05%.
La composition selon l’invention peut également comprendre, en outre, des extraits peptidiques de soja et/ou de blé, tels que ceux décrits dans le document EP 2 059 230.The composition according to the invention may also comprise, in addition, peptide extracts of soya and/or wheat, such as those described in document EP 2 059 230.
En pratique, les extraits peptidiques proviennent de graines de soja et de blé sont issus d’une hydrolyse enzymatique desdites graines par l'intermédiaire de peptidases qui permettent de récupérer des peptides d’une taille moyenne de 700 Daltons. Préférentiellement, l’extrait peptidique de soja est l’extrait identifié sous le numéro CAS 68607-88-5 de même que l’extrait peptidique de blé est l’extrait identifié sous le numéro CAS 70084-87-6. Les extraits de blé et soja peuvent correspondre aux désignations INCI Hydrolyzed wheat protein et Hydrolyzed soy protein, respectivement.In practice, the peptide extracts from soybeans and wheat are derived from an enzymatic hydrolysis of said seeds via peptidases which make it possible to recover peptides with an average size of 700 Daltons. Preferably, the soy peptide extract is the extract identified under CAS number 68607-88-5, just as the wheat peptide extract is the extract identified under CAS number 70084-87-6. Wheat and soy extracts may correspond to the INCI designations Hydrolyzed wheat protein and Hydrolyzed soy protein, respectively.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier, les extraits peptidiques de soja et/ou de blé sont utilisés ensemble, par exemple dans un rapport pondéral respectivement compris entre 80/20 et 20/80, avantageusement compris entre 70/30 et 30/70, de préférence égal à 60/40.In a particular embodiment, the peptide extracts of soybean and/or wheat are used together, for example in a weight ratio respectively comprised between 80/20 and 20/80, advantageously comprised between 70/30 and 30/70, of preference equal to 60/40.
Dans un mode de réalisation avantageux, les extraits peptidiques de soja et/ou de blé sont exempts de tripeptides synthétiques GHK (glycyl-histidyl-lysine ; INCI : Tripeptide-1). En pratique, les extraits peptidiques de soja et/ou blé représentant de 0,01 à 20 % en poids total de la composition, avantageusement de 0,1% à 10 %, encore plus avantageusement de 0,2% à 0,7%.In an advantageous embodiment, the soybean and/or wheat peptide extracts are free of synthetic GHK tripeptides (glycyl-histidyl-lysine; INCI: Tripeptide-1). In practice, the peptide extracts of soya and/or wheat representing from 0.01 to 20% by total weight of the composition, advantageously from 0.1% to 10%, even more advantageously from 0.2% to 0.7% .
Dans un mode de réalisation alternatif, la composition selon l’invention comprend, conformément aux enseignements du document FR 2 865 398, l’association d’au moins un acide aminé choisi dans le groupe constitué par l'ectoïne, la créatine, l'ergothionéine et/ou la carnosine, ou leurs sels physiologiquement acceptables, et du mannitol ou un dérivé du mannitol.In an alternative embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises, in accordance with the teachings of document FR 2 865 398, the combination of at least one amino acid chosen from the group consisting of ectoine, creatine, ergothioneine and/or carnosine, or their physiologically acceptable salts, and mannitol or a mannitol derivative.
De préférence, la composition selon l'invention comprend dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable l'acide aminé ou l'un de ses sels, seul ou en mélange dans des proportions comprises entre 0,001% et 10 % en poids total de la composition, et de préférence entre 0,01% et 5 %.Preferably, the composition according to the invention comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, the amino acid or one of its salts, alone or as a mixture in proportions of between 0.001% and 10% by total weight of the composition, and preferably between 0.01% and 5%.
La composition selon la présente invention comprend, de préférence, dans un milieu physiologiquement acceptable, du mannitol ou l'un de ses dérivés, dans des proportions comprises entre 0,01% et 30 % en poids total de la composition, avantageusement entre 0,1% et 10 %.The composition according to the present invention preferably comprises, in a physiologically acceptable medium, mannitol or one of its derivatives, in proportions of between 0.01% and 30% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 0, 1% and 10%.
Dans un mode de réalisation privilégié, la composition selon l’invention comprend de l’éctoïne et du mannitol.In a preferred embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises ectoin and mannitol.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend un ou plusieurs autres agents bronzants ou autobronzants. Il peut s’agir d'un autobronzant qui réagit avec les acides aminés de la peau selon une réaction de Maillard ou par l'intermédiaire d'une addition de Michael, ou bien un promoteur de la mélanogénèse ou un composé propigmentant qui favorise le bronzage naturel de la peau. Une telle substance est de préférence présente dans la composition en quantité allant de 0,01% à 20% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement de 0,5% à 15%, encore plus avantageusement de 1% à 8%.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises one or more other tanning or self-tanning agents. It can be a self-tanner which reacts with the amino acids of the skin according to a Maillard reaction or via a Michael addition, or else a promoter of melanogenesis or a propigmenting compound which promotes tanning natural to the skin. Such a substance is preferably present in the composition in an amount ranging from 0.01% to 20% by total weight of the composition, advantageously from 0.5% to 15%, even more advantageously from 1% to 8%.
Les substances autobronzantes peuvent être le 1,3-dihydroxyacétone (DHA), le glycérolaldéhyde, l’hydroxyméthylglyoxal, l’γ-dialdéhyde, l'érythrulose, le 6-aldo-D-fructose, la ninhydrine, la 5-hydroxy-1,4-naphtoquinone (juglone), la 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphtoquinone (lawsone), ou leur combinaison.Self-tanning substances can be 1,3-dihydroxyacetone (DHA), glycerolaldehyde, hydroxymethylglyoxal, γ-dialdehyde, erythrulose, 6-aldo-D-fructose, ninhydrin, 5-hydroxy-1 ,4-naphthoquinone (juglone), 2-hydroxy-1,4-naphthoquinone (lawsone), or their combination.
Les substances propigmentantes peuvent être l'hormone stimulant les mélanocytes (α-MSH), des analogues peptidiques de l’α-MSH, des agonistes du récepteur à l’endothéline-1, des agonistes des récepteurs µ opiacés, des agents stimulateurs d’AMPc, des agents stimulateurs de tyrosinase.Propigmenting substances can be melanocyte-stimulating hormone (α-MSH), α-MSH peptide analogues, endothelin-1 receptor agonists, opioid µ receptor agonists, cAMP, tyrosinase stimulating agents.
Dans un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend, en outre, en qualité d’autobronzant, une combinaison de dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate et/ou le dimethylmethoxy chromanol ainsi qu’une forme lipophile de la tyrosine.In a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention further comprises, as a self-tanner, a combination of dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate and/or dimethylmethoxy chromanol as well as a lipophilic form of tyrosine.
Cette association de principes actifs permet de stimuler efficacement le bronzage. Le dihydroxy méthylchromonyl palmitate (numéro CAS : 1387636-35-2) correspond, par exemple, à l’ingrédient cosmétique commercialisé par la société MERCK sous le nom de RonaCare® Bronzyl. Le dimethylmethoxy chromanol (numéro CAS : 83923-51-7) correspond, par exemple, à l’ingrédient cosmétique commercialisé par la société LIPOTEC SA sous le nom de lipochromone-6.This combination of active ingredients effectively stimulates tanning. Dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate (CAS number: 1387636-35-2) corresponds, for example, to the cosmetic ingredient marketed by MERCK under the name RonaCare® Bronzyl. Dimethylmethoxy chromanol (CAS number: 83923-51-7) corresponds, for example, to the cosmetic ingredient marketed by the company LIPOTEC SA under the name of lipochromone-6.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, le dihydroxy méthylchromonyl palmitate ou le dimethylmethoxy chromanol est compris dans la composition selon l’invention à hauteur de 0,01% à 10% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement de 0,05% à 10%, encore plus avantageusement de 0,1% à 5%, plus particulièrement de 0,1% à 0,5%.According to a particular embodiment, dihydroxy methylchromonyl palmitate or dimethylmethoxy chromanol is included in the composition according to the invention in the amount of 0.01% to 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously from 0.05% to 10% , even more advantageously from 0.1% to 5%, more particularly from 0.1% to 0.5%.
La forme lipophile de la tyrosine, au sens de l’invention, est un ingrédient à base de tyrosine et présente un caractère lipophile plus prononcé que la tyrosine. La forme lipophile de la tyrosine peut notamment correspondre à l’oléoyl tyrosine (Numéro CAS : 147732-57-8), qui se retrouve, par exemple, dans l’ingrédient cosmétique liquide TYR-OL, commercialisé par la société SEDERMA, et qui comprend environ 50% en poids d’oléoyl tyrosine dans du butylène glycol (environ 30% + environ 20% d’acide oléique), ou bien dans l’ingrédient cosmétique liquide TYR-EXCEL, commercialisé par la société SEDERMA, qui comprend environ 50% en poids d’oléoyl tyrosine, environ 20% en poids d’acide oléique (N° CAS : 112-80-1) et environ 30% en poids d’huile deLuffa cylindrica(huile de pépins de courge éponge; N° CAS : 1242417-48-6).The lipophilic form of tyrosine, within the meaning of the invention, is a tyrosine-based ingredient and has a more pronounced lipophilic nature than tyrosine. The lipophilic form of tyrosine may in particular correspond to oleoyl tyrosine (CAS number: 147732-57-8), which is found, for example, in the liquid cosmetic ingredient TYR-OL, marketed by the company SEDERMA, and which comprises approximately 50% by weight of oleoyl tyrosine in butylene glycol (approximately 30%+approximately 20% oleic acid), or else in the liquid cosmetic ingredient TYR-EXCEL, marketed by the company SEDERMA, which comprises approximately 50 % by weight of oleoyl tyrosine, approximately 20% by weight of oleic acid (CAS No: 112-80-1) and approximately 30% by weight of Luffa cylindrica oil (sponge gourd seed oil; CAS: 1242417-48-6).
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, la forme lipophile de la tyrosine correspond à une huile végétale dans laquelle a été formulée la tyrosine.According to another embodiment, the lipophilic form of tyrosine corresponds to a vegetable oil in which the tyrosine has been formulated.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, l’huile végétale est de l’huile de tournesol oléique, avantageusement désodorisée. Ainsi, la matière première OLEOACTIF TYROSINE BASE HELIANTHUS ANNUS commercialisée par l’entreprise OLEOS, et correspondant aux désignations INCIHelianthus annuusseed oil (and) tyrosine (and) glyceryl stearate, peut être utilisée dans le cadre de la présente invention.According to a particular embodiment, the vegetable oil is oleic sunflower oil, advantageously deodorized. Thus, the raw material OLEOACTIVE TYROSINE BASE HELIANTHUS ANNUS marketed by the company OLEOS, and corresponding to the INCI designations Helianthus annuus seed oil (and) tyrosine (and) glyceryl stearate, can be used in the context of the present invention.
En pratique, la forme lipophile de la tyrosine, telle que dans les ingrédients cosmétiques à base d’oléoyl-tyrosine (avantageusement à 50% en poids) ou de la tyrosine formulée dans de l’huile végétale, représente entre 0,1% et 10% en poids total de la composition, avantageusement entre 1 et 3%, encore plus avantageusement entre 1% et 1,5%.In practice, the lipophilic form of tyrosine, such as in cosmetic ingredients based on oleoyl-tyrosine (advantageously at 50% by weight) or tyrosine formulated in vegetable oil, represents between 0.1% and 10% by total weight of the composition, advantageously between 1 and 3%, even more advantageously between 1% and 1.5%.
La composition selon l’invention peut également comprendre des actifs ayant des propriétés dépigmentantes, comme par exemple :
- de l’azéilate de lysine, ou d’autres dérivés ou sels de l’acide azélaïque ;
- de l’andrographolide, notamment l’extrait d’Andrographis paniculatacorrespondant à la désignation INCIAndrographis paniculataleaf extract ;
- de l’acide ascorbique natif (vitamine C) ou ses dérivés, notamment les dérivés correspondant aux INCI Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethyl ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate et Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, avantageusement l’ascorbyl glucoside ;
- de l’arbutine ou un extrait végétal la contenant, notamment l’extrait de busserole correspondant à la désignation INCIArctostaphylos uva-ursileaf extract ;
- de la glabridine ou un extrait végétal la contenant, notamment les extraits de réglisse correspondant à la désignation INCIGlycyrrhiza glabraroot extract,Glycyrrhiza inflataroot extract,Glycyrrhiza uralensisroot extract ;
- les peptides biomimétiques correspondant aux désignations INCI hexapeptide 2 et/ou nonapeptide-1 ;
- un extrait aqueux d'une algue dénomméePalmaria palmata, notamment l’extrait correspondant à la désignation INCIPalmaria palmataextract ;
- le 4-n-butylresorcinol ;
- de la vitamine PP, également appelée niacinamide ou nicotinamide, et ses dérivés;
- ou leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention may also comprise active agents having depigmenting properties, such as for example:
- lysine azeilate, or other derivatives or salts of azelaic acid;
- andrographolide, in particular the extract of Andrographis paniculata corresponding to the INCI designation Andrographis paniculata leaf extract;
- native ascorbic acid (vitamin C) or its derivatives, in particular the derivatives corresponding to the INCI Ascorbyl Glucoside, Ethyl ascorbic acid, Ascorbyl methylsilanol pectinate, Sodium ascorbyl phosphate and Ascorbyl tetraisopalmitate, advantageously ascorbyl glucoside;
- arbutin or a plant extract containing it, in particular bearberry extract corresponding to the INCI designation Arctostaphylos uva-ursi leaf extract;
- glabridin or a plant extract containing it, in particular liquorice extracts corresponding to the INCI designation Glycyrrhiza glabra root extract, Glycyrrhiza inflata root extract, Glycyrrhiza uralensis root extract;
- biomimetic peptides corresponding to the INCI designations hexapeptide 2 and/or nonapeptide-1;
- an aqueous extract of an alga called Palmaria palmata , in particular the extract corresponding to the INCI designation Palmaria palmata extract;
- 4-n-butylresorcinol;
- vitamin PP, also called niacinamide or nicotinamide, and its derivatives;
- or mixtures thereof.
La composition selon l’invention peut également comprendre des actifs ayant des propriétés cicatrisantes ou régénérantes comme par exemple un agent antimicrobien choisi parmi les actifs correspondant aux désignations INCI suivantes : copper sulfate, zinc sulfate, sodium hyaluronate,Vitis vinifera(grape) vine extract et leurs mélanges ; un extrait de la planteCentella asiatica ,ou les terpènes deC. asiaticaasiaticoside, acide madecassique et acide asiatique, ainsi que leurs mélanges.The composition according to the invention may also comprise active agents having healing or regenerating properties such as, for example, an antimicrobial agent chosen from the active agents corresponding to the following INCI designations: copper sulphate, zinc sulphate, sodium hyaluronate, Vitis vinifera (grape) vine extract and mixtures thereof; an extract of the Centella asiatica plant , or the C. asiatica terpenes asiaticoside, madecassic acid and asiatic acid, and mixtures thereof.
La composition selon l’invention peut également comprendre des actifs ayant des propriétés sébocorrectices, kératolytiques, séboregulatrices et/ou une activité antiacnéique, afin de permettre la formulation de produits solaires traitant l’acné.The composition according to the invention may also comprise active agents having sebocorrective, keratolytic, sebum-regulating properties and/or anti-acne activity, in order to allow the formulation of sun products treating acne.
Par exemple, la composition selon l’invention peut comprendre un agent antimicrobien choisi parmi les actifs correspondant aux désignations INCI propyl gallate, dodecyl gallate,Ginkgo bilobaleaf extract, bakuchiol, dihydromyricetine, zinc gluconate, salicylic acid et leurs mélanges.For example, the composition according to the invention may comprise an antimicrobial agent chosen from active agents corresponding to the INCI designations propyl gallate, dodecyl gallate, Ginkgo biloba leaf extract, bakuchiol, dihydromyricetin, zinc gluconate, salicylic acid and mixtures thereof.
La composition selon l’invention peut en outre comprendre au moins un ingrédient choisi dans la liste suivante :
- un agent apte à filtrer la lumière visible, en particulier la lumière bleue ;
-un extrait des alguesLaminaria ochroleuca,Blidingia minimaouLaminaria saccharina;
- un extrait de la planteZanthoxylum alatum;
- du panthénol ;
- un extrait de bois de cade ;
- un extrait de Boldo ;
- un extrait de Reine des prés ;
- un extrait d’huile de karanja issue duPongamia glabra;
- des paraffines linéaires ;
- de l'ATP (adénosine-5 tri-phosphate), du Gp4G (diguanosine tétraphosphate) ou de l’Ap4A (diadénosine tétraphosphate) ; ou
- un acide aminé choisi dans le groupe constitué de la décarboxycarnosine, la glutamine et leurs sels.The composition according to the invention may also comprise at least one ingredient chosen from the following list:
- an agent capable of filtering visible light, in particular blue light;
-an extract of the seaweed Laminaria ochroleuca , Blidingia minima or Laminaria saccharina ;
- an extract of the Zanthoxylum alatum plant;
- panthenol;
- an extract of cade wood;
- a Boldo extract;
- an extract of Meadowsweet;
- an extract of karanja oil from Pongamia glabra ;
- linear paraffins;
- ATP (adenosine-5 tri-phosphate), Gp4G (diguanosine tetraphosphate) or Ap4A (diadenosine tetraphosphate); Or
- an amino acid chosen from the group consisting of decarboxycarnosine, glutamine and their salts.
La composition selon l’invention peut également comprendre des adjuvants comme ceux habituellement utilisés dans le domaine de la cosmétique, tels que des conservateurs, des antioxydants, des agents complexants, des solvants, des parfums, des charges, des bactéricides, des électrolytes, des absorbeurs d'odeur, des matières colorantes ou encore des vésicules lipidiques. Le choix de ces adjuvants, ainsi que leurs concentrations, doivent être déterminés de telle sorte qu'ils ne modifient pas les propriétés et les avantages recherchés pour la composition de la présente invention.The composition according to the invention may also comprise adjuvants such as those usually used in the field of cosmetics, such as preservatives, antioxidants, complexing agents, solvents, perfumes, fillers, bactericides, electrolytes, odor absorbers, dyestuffs or even lipid vesicles. The choice of these adjuvants, as well as their concentrations, must be determined so that they do not modify the properties and the advantages sought for the composition of the present invention.
La composition de l'invention se présente sous une forme adaptée à une administration, ou application, topique et plus particulièrement pour application sur la peau, les lèvres, les cheveux et/ou les muqueuses.The composition of the invention is in a form suitable for topical administration or application and more particularly for application to the skin, lips, hair and/or mucous membranes.
Ainsi et dans le cadre de l’invention, une telle composition est notamment destinée à la protection de la peau et/ou des phanères, en particulier les muqueuses, les lèvres et les cheveux, contre le rayonnement UV.Thus and in the context of the invention, such a composition is in particular intended for the protection of the skin and/or appendages, in particular the mucous membranes, the lips and the hair, against UV radiation.
La composition de l'invention peut se présenter sous toutes les formes galéniques normalement utilisées dans les domaines cosmétique et dermatologique.The composition of the invention can be in all the pharmaceutical forms normally used in the cosmetic and dermatological fields.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la viscosité de la composition selon l’invention est comprise entre 60000 et 160000 mPa.s, avantageusement entre 80000 et 140000 mPa.s.According to a particular embodiment, the viscosity of the composition according to the invention is between 60,000 and 160,000 mPa.s, advantageously between 80,000 and 140,000 mPa.s.
Selon l’invention, la viscosité est mesurée à température ambiante au moyen d’un viscosimètre Brookfield DV-II+ (conditions : pourcentage de lecture 83,5%, Mobile 6 Vitesse 6 (M6V6)). D’autres moyens analogues pour mesurer la viscosité des compositions cosmétiques sont connus à l’homme de l’art.According to the invention, the viscosity is measured at ambient temperature using a Brookfield DV-II+ viscometer (conditions: reading percentage 83.5%, Spindle 6 Speed 6 (M6V6)). Other analogous means for measuring the viscosity of cosmetic compositions are known to those skilled in the art.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention se présente sous la forme d’une émulsion H/E, avantageusement stable, qui comprend moins de 2% en poids total de la composition d’émulsionnant, avantageusement moins de 1%, moins de 0,5% voire moins de 0,1%, de préférence exempte d’émulsionnant.According to another particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is in the form of an O/W emulsion, advantageously stable, which comprises less than 2% by total weight of the emulsifier composition, advantageously less than 1 %, less than 0.5% or even less than 0.1%, preferably free of emulsifier.
Une composition stable est, au sens de la présente invention, une composition présentant une dispersion homogène et durable de la phase grasse dans la phase aqueuse, sans séparation de phases, floculation ou formation d’agrégats.A stable composition is, within the meaning of the present invention, a composition having a homogeneous and lasting dispersion of the fatty phase in the aqueous phase, without phase separation, flocculation or formation of aggregates.
Tout conservateur, autorisé ou non autorisé par la réglementation, (annexe V de la Directive européenne sur les produits cosmétiques), apte à être utilisé dans des compositions cosmétiques ou dermatologiques peut être mis en œuvre dans la formulation d’une composition selon l’invention.Any preservative, authorized or not authorized by the regulations, (appendix V of the European Directive on cosmetic products), suitable for use in cosmetic or dermatological compositions can be implemented in the formulation of a composition according to the invention. .
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, les conservateurs utilisables dans les compositions selon l’invention sont des alcanediols.According to a particular embodiment, the preservatives that can be used in the compositions according to the invention are alkanediols.
De préférence, les conservateurs selon l’invention sont des 1,2-alcanediols ou 1,3-alcanediols.Preferably, the preservatives according to the invention are 1,2-alkanediols or 1,3-alkanediols.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, l’alcanediol est choisi dans le groupe comprenant les composés correspondants aux désignations INCI suivantes : propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol et leurs mélanges.According to a particular embodiment, the alkanediol is chosen from the group comprising the compounds corresponding to the following INCI designations: propylene glycol, 1,3-propanediol, 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol, 1,2-pentanediol, 1 ,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol, 1,2-decanediol, 2-methyl-2,4-pentanediol and mixtures thereof.
Ces conservateurs sont disponibles auprès de plusieurs fournisseurs de matières premières cosmétiques.These preservatives are available from several suppliers of cosmetic raw materials.
A titre d’exemple, on peut citer :
- le EVO-100™ commercialisé par la société ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY et correspondant à la désignation INCI propylene glycol ;
- le ZEMEA™ commercialisé par la société DUPONT-TATE & LYLE BIOPRODUCTS et correspondant à la désignation INCI 1,2-propanediol ;
- le DUB DIOL™ commercialisé par la société STEARINERIE DUBOIS et correspondant à la désignations INCI 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol ;
- l’Hydrolite-5™, Hydrolite-6™, Hydrolite-8™ et le SymClariol 344028™ commercialisés par la société SYMRISE et correspondant respectivement aux désignations INCI 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol et 1,2-decanediol ; ou encore
- l’Hexasol™ commercialisé par la société ARKEMA et correspondant à la désignation INCI hexylene glycol.By way of example, we can cite:
- EVO-100™ marketed by ARCHER DANIELS MIDLAND COMPANY and corresponding to the INCI designation propylene glycol;
- ZEMEA™ marketed by the company DUPONT-TATE & LYLE BIOPRODUCTS and corresponding to the INCI designation 1,2-propanediol;
- DUB DIOL™ marketed by the company STEARINERIE DUBOIS and corresponding to the INCI designations 2-methyl-1,3-propanediol;
- Hydrolite-5™, Hydrolite-6™, Hydrolite-8™ and SymClariol 344028™ marketed by the company SYMRISE and corresponding respectively to the INCI designations 1,2-pentanediol, 1,2-hexanediol, caprylyl glycol and 1, 2-decanediol; or
- Hexasol™ marketed by ARKEMA and corresponding to the INCI designation hexylene glycol.
Selon un autre mode de réalisation, le au moins un agent conservateur est un ammonium quaternaire choisi dans le groupe comprenant le chlorure de behentrimonium, le bromure de cétrimonium, le bromure de myrtrimonium, le chlorure de cétrimonium, le bromure de laurtrimonium, le chlorure de laurtrimonium, le bromure de stéartrimonium, le chlorure de stéartrimonium, le chlorure de benzéthonium, le chlorure de benzalkonium et leurs mélanges.According to another embodiment, the at least one preservative is a quaternary ammonium chosen from the group comprising behentrimonium chloride, cetrimonium bromide, myrtrimonium bromide, cetrimonium chloride, laurtrimonium bromide, laurtrimonium, steartrimonium bromide, steartrimonium chloride, benzethonium chloride, benzalkonium chloride and mixtures thereof.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, l’agent conservateur correspondant à un ammonium quaternaire est le bromure de cétrimonium et/ou le bromure de myrtrimonium, avantageusement le bromure de cétrimonium.According to a particular embodiment, the preservative agent corresponding to a quaternary ammonium is cetrimonium bromide and/or myrtrimonium bromide, advantageously cetrimonium bromide.
A titre d’exemple, le bromure de cétrimonium est commercialisé par la société MERCK sous la dénomination commerciale RONACARE™ CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE et le bromure de myrtrimonium est commercialisé par la société VERTELLUS PERFORMANCE MATERIALS sous la dénomination de Mytab.By way of example, cetrimonium bromide is marketed by the company MERCK under the trade name RONACARE™ CETRIMONIUM BROMIDE and myrtrimonium bromide is marketed by the company VERTELLUS PERFORMANCE MATERIALS under the name Mytab.
D’autres conservateurs adaptés à une utilisation dans la composition comprenant le CSC et/ou CSL selon l’invention sont, par exemple :
- le potassium sorbate (INCI), le sodium benzoate (INCI) et le benzyl alcohol (INCI) commercialisés par la société AZELIS UK sous la dénomination Paratexin™ KS, Paratexin™ SBG et Paratexin™ BA, respectivement ;
- le p-anisic acid (INCI) et levulinic acid (INCI) commercialisés par la société COSPHATEC GMBH sous la dénomination Cosphaderm™ et Cophaderm™ LA-T, respectivement ;
- le dehydroacetic acid (INCI) et le polyaminoprypyl guanide (INCI), commercialisés par la société LONZA sous la dénomination Geogard™ 111A et Cosmocil™ CQ, respectivement ; ou encore
- le phenoxyethanol (INCI) commercialisé par la société CLARIANT INTERNATIONAL LTD sous la dénomination Phenoxetol™.Other preservatives suitable for use in the composition comprising the CSC and/or CSL according to the invention are, for example:
- potassium sorbate (INCI), sodium benzoate (INCI) and benzyl alcohol (INCI) marketed by the company AZELIS UK under the name Paratexin™ KS, Paratexin™ SBG and Paratexin™ BA, respectively;
- p-anisic acid (INCI) and levulinic acid (INCI) marketed by the company COSPHATEC GMBH under the names Cosphaderm™ and Cophaderm™ LA-T, respectively;
- dehydroacetic acid (INCI) and polyaminoprypyl guanide (INCI), marketed by the company LONZA under the names Geogard™ 111A and Cosmocil™ CQ, respectively; or
- phenoxyethanol (INCI) marketed by CLARIANT INTERNATIONAL LTD under the name Phenoxetol™.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend entre 0,001% et 5% en poids total de la composition d’agent conservateur, avantageusement entre 0,01% et 2%, de préférence entre 0,1% et 1%.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.001% and 5% by total weight of the composition of preservative, advantageously between 0.01% and 2%, preferably between 0.1% and 1 %.
Avantageusement, la composition comprend également un ou plusieurs polymères épaississants, qui peuvent contribuer à stabiliser la composition. Les polymères épaississants selon l'invention peuvent être non ioniques, anioniques, amphotères ou cationiques. Les unités de base des polymères de l'invention peuvent être des mono- ou disaccharides.Advantageously, the composition also comprises one or more thickening polymers, which can contribute to stabilizing the composition. The thickening polymers according to the invention can be nonionic, anionic, amphoteric or cationic. The basic units of the polymers of the invention can be mono- or disaccharides.
On peut notamment citer comme polymères susceptibles d'être employés, les gommes natives suivantes, ainsi que leurs dérivés :
a) les exsudats d'arbres ou d'arbustes dont la gomme arabique, la gomme ghatti, la gomme karaya, la gomme tragacanthe et leurs dérivés;
b) les gommes issues d'algues dont l'agar, les alginates, les carraghénanes, les furcelleranes et leurs dérivés;
c) les gommes issues de semences ou tubercules dont la gomme de guar, la gomme de caroube, la gomme de fenugrec, la gomme de tamarin, la gomme de konjac et leurs dérivés;
d) les gommes microbiennes dont la gomme de xanthane, la gomme de gellane, la gomme de scléroglucane ou de sclerotium, et leurs dérivés;
e) les extraits de plantes dont la cellulose, l'inuline et leurs dérivés.Mention may in particular be made, as polymers capable of being used, of the following native gums, as well as their derivatives:
(a) exudates from trees or shrubs including gum arabic, gum ghatti, gum karaya, gum tragacanth and their derivatives;
b) gums derived from algae including agar, alginates, carrageenans, furcelleranes and their derivatives;
(c) gums obtained from seeds or tubers including guar gum, locust bean gum, fenugreek gum, tamarind gum, konjac gum and their derivatives;
d) microbial gums including xanthan gum, gellan gum, scleroglucan or sclerotium gum, and their derivatives;
e) plant extracts including cellulose, inulin and their derivatives.
Avantageusement, les polymères épaississants utilisés dans les compositions selon l’invention sont la gomme de xanthane et/ou la gomme de sclerotium, avantageusement les deux gommes utilisées de façon simultanée. A titre d’exemple, la matière première cosmétique AMIGEL® commercialisée par la société ALBAN MULLER et répondant à la désignation INCI sclerotium gum peut être utilisée comme source de scleroglucan ; tandis que la matière première KELTROL CG-SFT® commercialisée par la société CP Kelco et répondant à la désignation INCI xanthan gum peut être utilisé comme source de gomme de xanthane.Advantageously, the thickening polymers used in the compositions according to the invention are xanthan gum and/or sclerotium gum, advantageously the two gums used simultaneously. For example, the cosmetic raw material AMIGEL® marketed by the company ALBAN MULLER and corresponding to the INCI designation sclerotium gum can be used as a source of scleroglucan; while the raw material KELTROL CG-SFT® marketed by the company CP Kelco and corresponding to the INCI designation xanthan gum can be used as a source of xanthan gum.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention comprend entre 0,01% et 6% en poids total de la composition de polymères épaississants avantageusement entre 0,1% et 3%.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention comprises between 0.01% and 6% by total weight of the composition of thickening polymers, advantageously between 0.1% and 3%.
Selon un autre aspect, l’invention concerne une composition telle que décrite précédemment pour utilisation pour la protection de la peau, les lèvres, les cheveux et/ou les muqueuses contre le rayonnement solaire ultraviolet.According to another aspect, the invention relates to a composition as described above for use for protecting the skin, the lips, the hair and/or the mucous membranes against ultraviolet solar radiation.
Selon un mode de réalisation particulier, la composition selon l’invention est utilisée pour filtrer le rayonnement UV compris entre 280 et 400 nm, en particulier entre 300 et 380 nm.According to a particular embodiment, the composition according to the invention is used to filter UV radiation between 280 and 400 nm, in particular between 300 and 380 nm.
L’invention concerne également l’utilisation d’un copolymère biodégradable obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir d’au moins une huile végétale telle que définie ci-avant, de préférence un copolymère répondant à la désignation INCI Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer comme solubilisant d’au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile dans une composition cosmétique solaire contenant en outre avantageusement au moins un solubilisant de filtres organiques UV lipophiles.The invention also relates to the use of a biodegradable copolymer obtained by copolymerization reaction from at least one vegetable oil as defined above, preferably a copolymer corresponding to the INCI designation Brassica Campestris/Aleurites Fordi Oil Copolymer as a solubilizer for at least one lipophilic organic UV screening agent in a cosmetic sunscreen composition which also advantageously contains at least one solubilizer for lipophilic organic UV screening agents.
L’invention comprend également un procédé de solubilisation d’au moins un filtres UV organique compris dans une composition, en utilisant au moins copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétal.The invention also comprises a process for solubilizing at least one organic UV screening agent included in a composition, using at least one biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin.
La manière dont l’invention peut être réalisée et les avantages qui en découlent ressortiront mieux des exemples de réalisation qui suivent, donnés à titre indicatif et non limitatif.The way in which the invention can be implemented and the resulting advantages will emerge better from the examples of embodiment which follow, given by way of indication and not limitation.
Exemples de réalisation de l’inventionExamples of embodiments of the invention
Les pourcentages indiqués sont donnés en poids de produit par rapport au poids total de la composition dans les tableaux ci-dessous.The percentages indicated are given by weight of product relative to the total weight of the composition in the tables below.
Exemple I – émulsion H/E selon l’invention – crèmeExample I - O/W emulsion according to the invention - cream
Exemple II – émulsion H/E selon l’invention- composition pulvérisableExample II - O/W emulsion according to the invention - sprayable composition
Exemple III – Essais de solubilisation de hautes teneurs de filtres solaires dérivés de triazine par les solubilisants selon l’invention et leurs combinaisonsExample III - Tests for the solubilization of high levels of triazine-derived sunscreens by the solubilizers according to the invention and their combinations
III.1 - But de l’étudeIII.1 - Aim of the study
L’objectif de l’étude est d’évaluer la stabilité de prémélanges des compositions solaires comprenant des filtres solaires organiques lipophiles, des solubilisants de filtres organiques lipophiles et des doses croissantes d’un copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale pendant une période de 2 mois à 4°C et 25°C. En particulier, la présence exclusive dans les prémélanges de filtres et solubilisants/huiles permet d’assurer que les cristaux éventuels observés sont issus de la recristallisation des filtres solaires organiques lipophiles.The objective of the study is to evaluate the stability of premixes of sunscreen compositions comprising lipophilic organic sunscreens, solubilizers of lipophilic organic filters and increasing doses of a biodegradable oily copolymer of plant origin for a period of 2 months at 4°C and 25°C. In particular, the exclusive presence in the premixes of filters and solubilizers/oils makes it possible to ensure that any crystals observed come from the recrystallization of lipophilic organic sunscreens.
III.2 - Matériels et méthodesIII.2 - Materials and methods
Plusieurs prémélanges (prém) contenant des filtres solaires organiques lipophiles et solubilisants de filtres organiques lipophiles ont été préparés. Les prémélanges à tester ont été placés aux étuves (étuve 4°C) et à température ambiante (25°C) et inspectés visuellement pendant deux mois aux intervalles suivants : 7 jours, 15 jours, 21 mois, 1,5 mois, 2 mois. Au début des tests, tous les prémélanges étaient de solutions limpides ; l’apparition de cristaux a été surveillée et notée.Several premixes (prem) containing lipophilic organic sunscreens and solubilizers of lipophilic organic filters have been prepared. The premixes to be tested were placed in ovens (4°C oven) and at room temperature (25°C) and visually inspected for two months at the following intervals: 7 days, 15 days, 21 months, 1.5 months, 2 months . At the start of the tests, all the premixes were clear solutions; the appearance of crystals was monitored and noted.
Le prémélange 1 (prém 1) ne contient pas de copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale au sens de l’invention. Des quantités croissantes (0,5%, 2%, 5%) de BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS/ALEURITES FORDII OIL COPOLYMER ont été ajoutées dans les prémélanges 2 à 4. Chaque prémélange a été réalisé en triplicat.Premix 1 (prem 1) does not contain biodegradable oily copolymer of vegetable origin within the meaning of the invention. Increasing amounts (0.5%, 2%, 5%) of BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS/ALEURITES FORDII OIL COPOLYMER were added to premixes 2 to 4. Each premix was made in triplicate.
Le tocophérol présent dans les prémélanges est amené par les matières premières formulées dans les prémélanges et est présent dans des concentrations négligeables.The tocopherol present in the premixes is carried by the raw materials formulated in the premixes and is present in negligible concentrations.
III.3 - Résultats et conclusionIII.3 - Results and conclusion
Les résultats sont résumés dans les tableaux 4 et 5 ci-dessous.The results are summarized in Tables 4 and 5 below.
Dans le cas du premélange 1, qui contient des filtres lipophiles organiques et des solubilisants de filtres organiques lipophiles, mais est exempte de copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale, la recristallisation des filtres a été presque immédiate, que ce soit à 4°C ou 25°C. A 7 jours, tous les échantillons étaient déjà saturés de cristaux. L’ajout de 0,5% de BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS/ ALEURITES FORDII OIL COPOLYMER a permis de ralentir la recristallisation d’une semaine (prémélange 2), mais à 15 jours, la recristallisation a eu lieu à 4°C et à température ambiante. De façon surprenante, l’ajout de copolymère huileux biodégradable d’origine végétale à une concentration supérieure à 0,5% a permis d’éviter toute recristallisation, à 4°C et à 25°C, jusqu’à la fin de l’essai (prémélanges 3 et 4).In the case of premix 1, which contains organic lipophilic filters and lipophilic organic filter solubilizers, but is free of biodegradable oily copolymer of vegetable origin, the recrystallization of the filters was almost immediate, whether at 4°C or 25°C. At 7 days, all the samples were already saturated with crystals. The addition of 0.5% of BRASSICA CAMPESTRIS/ALEURITES FORDII OIL COPOLYMER slowed recrystallization by one week (premix 2), but at 15 days, recrystallization took place at 4°C and room temperature. Surprisingly, the addition of biodegradable oily copolymer of vegetable origin at a concentration greater than 0.5% made it possible to avoid any recrystallization, at 4°C and at 25°C, until the end of the test (premixes 3 and 4).
Claims (19)
- au moins un filtre UV organique lipophile,
- au moins un solubilisant de filtres organiques UV lipophiles, caractérisée en ce qu’elle comprend en outre plus de 0,5% en poids d’un copolymère biodégradable obtenu par réaction de copolymérisation à partir d’au moins une huile végétale.Sun composition comprising:
- at least one lipophilic organic UV filter,
- at least one solubilizer for lipophilic organic UV screening agents, characterized in that it further comprises more than 0.5% by weight of a biodegradable copolymer obtained by copolymerization reaction from at least one vegetable oil.
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FR2111857A FR3128881A1 (en) | 2021-11-09 | 2021-11-09 | Sunscreen composition including organic UV filters and environmentally friendly oily copolymers |
PCT/EP2022/081019 WO2023083762A1 (en) | 2021-11-09 | 2022-11-07 | Ecobiological sunscreen composition comprising organic uv filters and environmentally friendly oil copolymers |
EP22814330.1A EP4429630A1 (en) | 2021-11-09 | 2022-11-07 | Ecobiological sunscreen composition comprising organic uv filters and environmentally friendly oil copolymers |
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CAS , no. 1387636-35-2 |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 16 November 2010 (2010-11-16), ANONYMOUS: "Sunblock Spray SPF 50", XP055936785, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/1433198/ Database accession no. 1433198 * |
DATABASE GNPD [online] MINTEL; 21 October 2021 (2021-10-21), ANONYMOUS: "Mineral Sunscreen Gel SPF 50 PA+++", XP055936787, retrieved from https://www.gnpd.com/sinatra/recordpage/9040326/ Database accession no. 9040326 * |
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