FR2746303A1 - AMARANTE SEED EXTRACT AND DERMO-COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE SAME - Google Patents

Abstract

An amaranth seed extract having softening and moisturising properties is disclosed. Skin cosmetic compositions containing said extract, particularly shampoos, shower gels, protective foams or hair conditioners, are also disclosed.

Description

 The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an amaranth extract, softening and hydrating.

Amaranth is an ornamental plant, family of
Amaranthaceae, belonging to the order of Chenopodial with red flowers grouped in long clusters also called "fox tail" or soothes velvet ".

 Amaranth seeds were used as the main source of food by the Aztecs. Amaranth was also cultivated by the Incas, Mayans and other peoples of the pre-Columbian era. It is used today in India, in Latin American countries and also in a popcorn form and as a breakfast cereal in the United States (crackers, cookies, breads, cakes, pancakes and waffles).

 The whole family of Amaranthaceae represents around 800 species of annual or permanent herbs.

 Amaranth grows in single or multiple branches and can reach 1.50 m in height. The leaves are simple, with a pungent tip and cuneiform base. The very small flowers are colored red-brown, grouped in axial panicle. They have 5 sepals, 5 stamens, 3 carpels. The fruit is an achene. The seeds are very small, less than 2 mm in diameter.

 The seeds are composed of carbohydrates, 55 to 70%, lipids, 5 to 8%, fibers, 5 to 8%, proteins, 13 to 17%, minerals, 2 to 3 96.

 Carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and starch. Sucrose is the most abundant simple sugar; it is accompanied by raffmose and maltose.

 Starch is the most abundant component. This starch is special and gives amaranth its cosmetic properties. It constitutes very small granules. It is mainly composed of amylopectin, so is degraded very quickly by amylases.

 The proteins of amaranth seeds are more abundant than in cereals and are mainly composed of soluble proteins albumin and globulins. These are easily extracted. In addition, the amino acid composition of these proteins is very interesting. Indeed, there is a high level of lysine and sulfur amino acids higher than other cereal seeds and the rest of the composition approaches the quality of animal proteins.

 The richness in proteins but also the nutritive quality of these proteins make amaranth seeds a plant product of exceptional interest in nutrition.

 The fat content of amaranth seeds has been studied. The latter contain 8% on average, higher than cereals (2% in wheat). The fatty acid composition highlights the richness in unsaturated fatty acids, AGE, over 70%.

 Among these fatty acids, gamma linolenic acid is present at a concentration greater than 1,96.

 The total mineral content (ash) in the seeds of amaranth species is generally higher than in other cereal seeds.

 Properly ground amaranth flour contains 10 times more iron, 7 times more calcium and 4 times more zinc than commercial wheat flour. Amaranth seeds have a high concentration of calcium (201-308 mg / 100 g) and iron (15-121 mg / 100 g).

 The calcium level of amaranth seeds is higher than that of milk. Few studies provide information on bioavailability or the choice of the best food to provide this calcium in an easily assimilated form.

 Amaranth seeds have a different vitamin concentration than that of wheat. It is higher for riboflavin and ascorbic acid, and lower for thiamine and niadne.

 The present invention therefore relates firstly to an extract of amaranth seeds, useful in dermo-cosmetics for its softening and moisturizing properties.

 This extract can be obtained by extracting the seeds, optionally ground or flattened, with an appropriate solvent, at a temperature between room temperature and the boiling point of the solvent, then by recovery of the liquid phase, which is then treated with 'a suitable way to obtain an aqueous solution of amaranth extract.

 This solution can then be stabilized and / or sterilized, or the solvent can be evaporated until a dry, solid, powdery amaranth extract is obtained.

 The appropriate solvent is advantageously chosen from water, C 1 -C 4 aliphatic alcohols, acetone, or mixtures thereof in all proportions, in particular water / acetone or water / alcohol mixtures, in proportions varying from 0 to 100% acetone or alcohol.

 The weight ratio of amaranth seed / solvent can advantageously be between 1/5 and 1/20.

 The extraction time is preferably between 1 hour and 24 hours.

 Those skilled in the art will know how to determine the appropriate operating conditions for obtaining the desired product, in particular as regards the stirring of the extraction medium, or even the number of extraction operations carried out on the same substrate.

 After extraction, the solid / liquid separation is carried out by filtration, spinning or decantation.

 When the extraction solvent consists of alcohol and / or acetone, the liquid extract obtained is treated by the addition of an appropriate quantity of water.

 The organic solvents, alcohol and acetone, are then evaporated, in particular under vacuum, until an aqueous solution is obtained. This operation of adding an appropriate volume of water may be optional when the extraction solvent is water or a water / alcohol or water / acetone mixture.

 The aqueous solution containing the amaranth extract can be sterilized or stabilized by the addition of a solvent such as propylene glycol, glycerin, transcutol, a microbial preservative, a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type.

 Drying can also be carried out until a powder is obtained.

 Amaranth extracts are characterized by the presence of a whitish precipitate obtained by the addition of ethanol, which precipitates the presence of polymers such as starch and proteins. Thin layer chromatography identifies the presence of amino acids and simple sugars. Finally, carbohydrates, simple sugars and starch can be determined by the anthrone reagent technique. Their content is between 1 and 50% compared to the dry matter.

 The present invention also relates to dermo-cosmetic compositions comprising an amaranth extract defined above.

 These compositions can be presented in the form of shampoo, gel, foam, cream, etc., for topical application.

 Advantageously, it is a gel useful for showering the body and the hair.

 The compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise between 0.5 and 10% by weight of amaranth extract, more advantageously between 1 and 5% by weight.

 The composition according to the invention also comprises the usual components of dermo-cosmetic compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, stabilizing agents, gelling agents, volumizers, detanglers, viscosants, preservatives, protein extracts , perfumes, dyes, etc.

 Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention comprise .0.5 to 10% of amaranth extract, .0 to 15% of surface-active agents, .0 to 5% of a protein extract, .0 to 5% of detangling agents, .0 to 5% of viscous agents, .0 to 5% of volumizing agents, and. 50 to 90% water.

 Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise:. 1 1 to 5% of amaranth extract,. 5 to 10% of surfactants,. 1 1 to 4% of protein extracts,. 1 1 at 3% viscosifiers, and .65 at 80% water.

 They can also comprise from 0.1 to 0.5% of superfatting agents, such as for example triglycerides.

 Protein extracts are in particular lipoproteins, glycoproteins or hydrolysates of proteins of animal or vegetable origin.

 Detangling agents are in particular gums of plant origin such as guar gum, or cationic silicone emulsions.

 The viscosifiers are in particular amides such as cocamide diethanolamine.

 The volumizing agents are in particular cationic polymers.

 Other characteristics of the extracts and compositions according to the invention will appear in the light of the examples below.

EXAMPLE 1
1 kg of amaranth seeds are flattened and then placed in a reactor with 12 l of water. The extraction is carried out under reflux for 1 hour then the extracted seeds are removed by wringing. A quantity of water is added to the filtrate necessary in order to obtain an extract of 10 kg, 100 g of a xanthan gum (Keltrol type). The extract is autoclaved for sterilization and then added with a microbial preservative such as Euxil K 400.

The carbohydrates are dosed, their content varies between 30 and 40% compared to the dry matter. Sugars, amino acids, starch and proteins are identified.

Example 2
100 kg of amaranth seeds are extracted with 700 kg of 30% ethanol with stirring at room temperature. The solutions are recovered by decantation then filtration, concentrated then dried under vacuum. 16 kg of a white powder are thus obtained containing 10 to 15% of carbohydrates.

Example 3
3 kg of ground amaranth seeds are extracted with 30 kg of water with stirring at room temperature. The solutions are recovered by wringing, are concentrated until 6 kg are obtained and then 6 kg of propylene glycol are added. The final solution is filtered through a 0.2 Fm sterilizable filter and then analyzed. Sugars, amino acids, proteins are identified. The sugars are dosed between 10 and 20% compared to the dry matter.

Example 4
Evaluation of the hydrating effects of an amaranth extract in
man using corneometry
This activity is sought on an aqueous extract of amaranth titrating 35% in carbohydrate compared to its dry matter.

 The evaluation method is based on an electrical measurement. Water can indeed be considered as an electric dipole capable of conducting electricity. The transport of electricity in a given field is proportional to the amount of water present in the stratum corneum.

 The more water rich in skin, the faster the electric current flows between two electrodes. The corneometric measurements concerning the amaranth extract were made in eight subjects at the level of the forearm.

 Four locations were determined, two for the application of the amaranth extract, the other two serving as a control.

 The hydration indices were noted every 5 minutes for the 15 minutes following the application of the amaranth extract and then every 15 minutes for 2 hours 30 minutes.

 The hydrating effects of the amaranth extract appear from the first 15 minutes and remain constant for 2 hours 30 minutes. There is a differential of 25% compared to the control.

EXAMPLE 5
Evaluation of softening and hydrating effects
Two shampoo formulas that are identical in all respects, except for the presence or absence of 3% amaranth extract, are blindly tested by a group of 18 consumers. These are divided into two groups of 9 people. The first group tests the shampoo with amaranth extract for 1 month, then for another 1 month shampoo without amaranth extract. The second group first tests for 1 month the shampoo without amaranth extract, then the shampoo with the extract. Shampoos are used twice a week. The product is applied to the scalp, the massage takes place for 1 minute, a rest of 3 to 5 minutes is observed before rinsing.

The two groups note the sensations of softness, hydration of the scalp but also the disentangling, the volume and the heaviness of the hair.
The shampoo containing the amaranth extract is rated softening by 7 people from the first group and 8 people from the second. The sensation of the hydrated scalp is also noted by 7 people from the two groups, the qualities of disentangling and volume being at the same level for the two products.

 The softening and hydrating properties demonstrated, but also nutritious by the richness in amino acids, proteins and lipids, make amaranth extracts an asset of choice in dermo-cosmetology.

Examples of formulations 1) Gentle detangling shampoo
(%)
Amaranth extract, 3
D-Panthenol, 0.10
Jaguar C135, 0.25
Propylene glycol, 0.75
Cocamidopropyl betaine, 1.80
Lipoproteins, 4
Sodium laurylethersulfate, 5
Cocamide DEA 2.50
Pearl base, (20%), 6
Polyquaternium 7, 0.15
Perfumes, dyes, citric acid,
Demineralized water, QSP 100 2) Coron and hair shower gel
(%)
Amaranth extract, S
Vegetable triglyceride, 0.15
Oleth 20, 0.20
Protein hydrolyzate, 2.5
Decylpolyglycoside, 2
TEA-Laurylethersulfate, 6
Cocamidopropyl betaine, 2.50
Akyposal 2010 SD, 10
Cocamide DEA, 2
Perfume, preservative,
Demineralized water, QfiP 100 3) Zinc-free protective foam
(%)
Amaranth extract, 1
Merquat 3330, 3
Polyquaternium 22, 1.50
Amphoteric agent, 0.9
Denatured ethanol, 8
Cationic silicone emulsion, 3
Perfume,
Demineralized Water,
Aérogaz 3,2, 4) Hair cream for dry hair
(%)
Amaranth extract, 5
Sweet almond oil, 1
Glycerin, 1
Milk glycoproteins, qs
Vegetable squalane, 0.3
Soy lecithins, 0.15
Thick mineral oil, 0.5
Cetylstearyl alcohol, 2
Ceteareth-3 3, 6
Propylene glycol, 2
Stéapyrium chloride, 2
Perfume, preservative,
Demineralized water, Q:; P 100
Functions of DrinciDaux excipients:
Jaquar C 135 (disentangling agent)
Cocamidopropylbétaine j foaming agents
Sodium laurylethersulfate
Cocamide DEA (viscosity)
Polyquaternium 7 (volumizing agent)
Vegetable triglyceride (superfatting)
Oleth 20 (water solubilizer)
Decylpolyglycoside} surfactants
TEA-laurylethersulfate
Merquat 3330 (volumizing polymer)
Cationic silicone emulsion (detangler)
Ceteareth 33 (emulsifier)
Stéapyrium chloride (detangler).

Claims (10)

 1) Amaranth extract capable of being obtained by extracting the seeds, optionally ground or flattened, with an appropriate solvent, at a temperature between room temperature and the boiling point of the solvent, then by recovery of the liquid phase , which is then suitably treated to obtain an aqueous solution of amaranth extract.  2) Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous solution is then stabilized and / or sterilized.  3) Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the solvent can be evaporated until a dry, solid, pulverulent amaranth extract is obtained.  4) Extract according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the appropriate solvent is advantageously chosen from water, aliphatic alcohols C1-C4, acetone, or their mixtures in all proportions.  5) Extract according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weight ratio of amaranth seed / solvent is between 1/5 and 1/20.  6) Dermo-cosmetic composition comprising an amaranth extract according to one of claims 1 to 5.  7) Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, gel, foam or cream.  8) Composition according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it comprises between 0.5 and 10% by weight of amaranth extract.  9) Composition according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that it comprises: .0.5 to 10% of amaranth extract, .0 to 15% of surface-active agents, .0 to 5% of a protein extract, .0 0 to 5% of detangling agents, .0 to 5% of viscosity agents, .0 to 5% of volumizing agents, and. 50 to 90% water.  10) Composition according to one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that it comprises:. 1 to 5% of amaranth extract,. 5 to 10% of surfactants,. 1 to 4% protein extracts, .1 to 3% viscosifiers, and .65 to 80% water.