WO1997034579A1 - Amaranth seed extract and skin cosmetic composition containing same - Google Patents

Amaranth seed extract and skin cosmetic composition containing same Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1997034579A1
WO1997034579A1 PCT/FR1997/000489 FR9700489W WO9734579A1 WO 1997034579 A1 WO1997034579 A1 WO 1997034579A1 FR 9700489 W FR9700489 W FR 9700489W WO 9734579 A1 WO9734579 A1 WO 9734579A1
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Prior art keywords
extract
amaranth
water
solvent
seeds
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PCT/FR1997/000489
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French (fr)
Inventor
Bernard Fabre
Michel Jeanjean
Original Assignee
Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique
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Application filed by Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique filed Critical Pierre Fabre Dermo-Cosmetique
Priority to EP97915521A priority Critical patent/EP0893988A1/en
Publication of WO1997034579A1 publication Critical patent/WO1997034579A1/en

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    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/48Fabaceae or Leguminosae (Pea or Legume family); Caesalpiniaceae; Mimosaceae; Papilionaceae
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/21Amaranthaceae (Amaranth family), e.g. pigweed, rockwort or globe amaranth
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/73Rosaceae (Rose family), e.g. strawberry, chokeberry, blackberry, pear or firethorn
    • A61K36/736Prunus, e.g. plum, cherry, peach, apricot or almond
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61KPREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • AHUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61QSPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10Washing or bathing preparations

Definitions

  • the present invention relates to a cosmetic composition
  • a cosmetic composition comprising an amaranth extract, softening and hydrating.
  • Amaranth is an ornamental plant, family Amaranthaceae, belonging to the order of Chenopodiales with red flowers grouped in long clusters also called “fox tail” or "velvet pass”. Amaranth seeds were used as the main source of food by the Aztecs. Amaranth was also cultivated by the Incas, Mayans and other peoples of the pre-Columbian era. It is used today in India, in Latin American countries and also in a popcorn form and as a breakfast cereal in the United States (crackers, cookies, breads, cakes, pancakes and waffles).
  • the whole family of Amaranthaceae represents around 800 species of annual or permanent herbs.
  • Amaranth grows in single or multiple branches and can reach 1.50 m high.
  • the leaves are simple, with a pungent tip and cuneiform base.
  • the very small flowers are colored red-brown, grouped in axial panicle. They have 5 sepals, 5 stamens, 3 carpels.
  • the fruit is an achene.
  • the seeds are very small, less than 2 mm in diameter.
  • the seeds are composed of carbohydrates, 55 to 70%, lipids, 5 to 8%, fibers, 5 to 8%, proteins, 13 to 17%, minerals, 2 to 3%.
  • Carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and starch. Sucrose is the most abundant simple sugar; it is accompanied by raffinose and maltose.
  • Starch is the most abundant component. This starch is special and gives amaranth its cosmetic properties. It constitutes very small granules. It is mainly composed of amylopectinc, so is degraded very quickly by amylases.
  • the proteins of amaranth seeds are more abundant than in cereals and are mainly composed of soluble proteins: albumins and globulincs. These are easily extracted.
  • the amino acid composition of these proteins is very interesting. Indeed, we find a high level of lysine and sulfur amino acids higher than other cereal seeds and the rest of the composition approaches the quality of animal protein.
  • the fat content of amaranth seeds has been studied.
  • the latter contain 8% on average, higher than cereals (2% in wheat).
  • the fatty acid composition highlights the richness in unsaturated fatty acids, AGE, over 70%.
  • gamma linolenic acid is present at a concentration greater than 1%.
  • the total mineral content (ash) in the seeds of amaranth species is generally higher than in other cereal seeds.
  • Properly ground amaranth flour contains 10 times more iron, 7 times more calcium and 4 times more zinc than commercial wheat flour.
  • Amaranth seeds have a high concentration of calcium (201-308 mg / 100 g) and iron (15-11 1 mg / 100 g).
  • the calcium level of amaranth seeds is higher than that of milk. Few studies provide information on bioavailability or the choice of the best food to provide this calcium in an easily assimilated form.
  • Amaranth seeds have a different vitamin concentration than that of wheat. It is higher for riboflavin and ascorbic acid, and lower for thiamine and niacin.
  • the present invention therefore relates firstly to an extract of amaranth seeds, useful in dermo-cosmetics for its softening and moisturizing properties.
  • This extract can be obtained by extracting the seeds, optionally ground or flattened, with an appropriate solvent, at a temperature between room temperature and the boiling point of the solvent, then by recovery of the liquid phase, which is then treated appropriately to obtain an aqueous solution of amaranth extract.
  • This solution can then be stabilized and / or sterilized, or the solvent can be evaporated until a dry, solid, powdery amaranth extract is obtained.
  • the appropriate solvent is advantageously chosen from water, C 1 -C 4 aliphatic alcohols, acetone, or mixtures thereof in all proportions, in particular water / acetone or water / alcohol mixtures, in proportions varying from 0 100% acetone or alcohol.
  • the weight ratio of amaranth seed / solvent can advantageously be between 1/5 and 1/20.
  • the extraction time is preferably between 1 hour and 24 hours.
  • the solid / liquid separation is carried out by filtration, spinning or decantation.
  • the extraction solvent consists of alcohol and / or acetone
  • the liquid extract obtained is treated by the addition of an appropriate quantity of water.
  • the organic solvents, alcohol and acetone are then evaporated, in particular under vacuum, until an aqueous solution is obtained.
  • This operation of adding an appropriate volume of water may be optional when the extraction solvent is water or a water / alcohol or water / acetone mixture.
  • the aqueous solution containing the amaranth extract can be sterilized or stabilized by the addition of a solvent such as propylene glycol, glycerin, transcutol, a microbial preservative, a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type.
  • a solvent such as propylene glycol, glycerin, transcutol, a microbial preservative, a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type.
  • Drying can also be carried out until a powder is obtained.
  • Amaranth extracts are characterized by the presence of a whitish precipitate obtained by the addition of ethanol, a precipitate which reflects the presence of polymer such as starch and proteins. Thin layer chromatography identifies the presence of amino acids and simple sugars. Finally, carbohydrates, simple sugars and starch can be determined by the anthrone reagent technique. Their content is between 1 and 50% compared to the dry matter.
  • the present invention also relates to dermo-cosmetic compositions comprising an amaranth extract defined above.
  • compositions can be presented in the form of shampoo, gel, foam, cream, etc., for topical application.
  • it is a gel useful for showering the body and the hair.
  • compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise between 0.5 and 10% by weight of amaranth extract, more advantageously between 1 and 5% by weight.
  • the composition according to the invention also comprises the usual components of dermo-cosmetic compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, stabilizing agents, gelling agents, volumizers, detanglers, viscosants, preservatives, protein extracts , perfumes, dyes, etc.
  • dermo-cosmetic compositions such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, stabilizing agents, gelling agents, volumizers, detanglers, viscosants, preservatives, protein extracts , perfumes, dyes, etc.
  • the compositions according to the invention comprise:
  • compositions according to the invention comprise:. 1 to 5% of amaranth extract,. 5 to 10% of surfactants,. 1 to 4% of protein extracts,. 1 to 3% viscosifiers, and. 65 to 80% water. They can also comprise from 0.1 to 0.5% of superfatting agents, such as for example triglycerides.
  • Protein extracts are in particular lipoproteins, glycoproteins or hydrolysates of proteins of animal or vegetable origin.
  • Detangling agents are in particular gums of plant origin such as guar gum, or cationic silicone emulsions.
  • the viscosifiers are in particular amides such as cocamide diethanolamine.
  • the volumizing agents are in particular cationic polymers.
  • This activity is sought on an aqueous extract of amaranth titrating 35% in carbohydrate compared to its dry matter.
  • the evaluation method is based on an electrical measurement. Water can indeed be considered as an electric dipole capable of driving electricity. The transport of electricity in a given field is proportional to the amount of water present in the stratum corneum.
  • the corneometric measurements concerning the amaranth extract were made in eight subjects at the level of the forearm.
  • the hydration indices were noted every 5 minutes for the 15 minutes following the application of the amaranth extract and then every 15 minutes for 2 hours 30 minutes.
  • the hydrating effects of the amaranth extract appear from the first 15 minutes and remain constant for 2 hours 30 minutes. There is a differential of 25% compared to the control.
  • the two groups note the sensations of softness, hydration of the scalp but also the disentangling, the volume and the heaviness of the hair.
  • the shampoo containing the amaranth extract is noted softening by "people of the first group and 8 people of the second.
  • the sensation of the hydrated scalp is also noted by 7 people of the two groups, the qualities of disentangling and volume being located at same level for both products.
  • Oleth 20 (water solubilizer)

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Medical Informatics (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
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  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
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  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

An amaranth seed extract having softening and moisturising properties is disclosed. Skin cosmetic compositions containing said extract, particularly shampoos, shower gels, protective foams or hair conditioners, are also disclosed.

Description

EXTRAIT DE GRAINES D'AMARANTE ET COMPOSITION DERMO-COSMETIQUE LE COMPRENANT AMARANTE SEED EXTRACT AND DERMO-COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE SAME
La présente invention concerne une composition cosmétique comprenant un extrait d'amarante, adoucissant et hydratant.The present invention relates to a cosmetic composition comprising an amaranth extract, softening and hydrating.
L'amarante est une plante ornementale, famille des Amaranthacées, appartenant à l'ordre des Chénopodiales aux fleurs rouges groupées en longues grappes appelées aussi "queue de renard" ou "passe velours". Les graines d'amarante ont été utilisées comme source principale de nourriture par les Aztèques. L'amarante a aussi été cultivée par les Incas, les Mayas et les autres peuples de l'époque pré-colombienne. Elle est utilisée aujourd'hui en Inde, dans les pays d'Amérique Latine et aussi sous une forme de popcorn et comme céréale de petit déjeuner aux Etats-Unis (crackers, cookies, pains, cakes, crêpes et gaufres).Amaranth is an ornamental plant, family Amaranthaceae, belonging to the order of Chenopodiales with red flowers grouped in long clusters also called "fox tail" or "velvet pass". Amaranth seeds were used as the main source of food by the Aztecs. Amaranth was also cultivated by the Incas, Mayans and other peoples of the pre-Columbian era. It is used today in India, in Latin American countries and also in a popcorn form and as a breakfast cereal in the United States (crackers, cookies, breads, cakes, pancakes and waffles).
L'ensemble de la famille des Amaranthacées, représente environ 800 espèces d'herbes annuelles ou permanentes.The whole family of Amaranthaceae represents around 800 species of annual or permanent herbs.
L'amarante croît en branches uniques ou multiples et peut atteindre 1 ,50 m de haut. Les feuilles sont simples, à la pointe piquante et à base cunéiforme. Les fleurs très petites, sont colorées en rouge-marron, groupées en panicule axial. Elles ont 5 sépales, 5 étamines, 3 carpelles. Le fruit est un akène. Les graines sont très petites, inférieures à 2 mm de diamètre.Amaranth grows in single or multiple branches and can reach 1.50 m high. The leaves are simple, with a pungent tip and cuneiform base. The very small flowers are colored red-brown, grouped in axial panicle. They have 5 sepals, 5 stamens, 3 carpels. The fruit is an achene. The seeds are very small, less than 2 mm in diameter.
Les graines sont composées de carbohydrates, 55 à 70 %, de lipides, 5 à 8 %, de fibres, 5 à 8 %, de protéines, 13 à 17 %, de minéraux, 2 à 3 %.The seeds are composed of carbohydrates, 55 to 70%, lipids, 5 to 8%, fibers, 5 to 8%, proteins, 13 to 17%, minerals, 2 to 3%.
Les carbohydrates sont composées de sucres simples et d'amidon. Le sucrose est le sucre simple le plus abondant ; il est accompagné de raffinose et de maltose.Carbohydrates are made up of simple sugars and starch. Sucrose is the most abundant simple sugar; it is accompanied by raffinose and maltose.
L'amidon est le composant le plus abondant. Cet amidon est particulier et confère à l'amarante ses propriétés cosmétiques. Il constitue des granules de très petites tailles. Il est composé essentiellement d'amylopectinc, donc est dégradé très rapidement par les amylases.Starch is the most abundant component. This starch is special and gives amaranth its cosmetic properties. It constitutes very small granules. It is mainly composed of amylopectinc, so is degraded very quickly by amylases.
Les protéines des graines d'amarante sont plus abondantes que dans les céréales et sont composées essentiellement de protéines solubles : albumines et globulincs. Ces dernières sont extraites facilement. De plus, la composition en acides aminés de ces protéines est très intéressante. En effet, on trouve un haut niveau de lysine et d'acides aminés soufrés supérieur aux autres graines de céréales et le reste de la composition approche la qualité des protéines animales.The proteins of amaranth seeds are more abundant than in cereals and are mainly composed of soluble proteins: albumins and globulincs. These are easily extracted. In addition, the amino acid composition of these proteins is very interesting. Indeed, we find a high level of lysine and sulfur amino acids higher than other cereal seeds and the rest of the composition approaches the quality of animal protein.
La richesse en protéines mais aussi la qualité nutritive de ces protéines font des graines d'amarante un produit végétal d'un intérêt exceptionnel en nutrition.The richness in proteins but also the nutritive quality of these proteins make amaranth seeds a plant product of exceptional interest in nutrition.
Le contenu en corps gras des graines d'amarante a été étudié. Ces dernières en contiennent 8 % en moyenne, taux plus élevé que les céréales (2 % dans le blé). La composition en acides gras souligne la richesse en acides gras insaturés, AGE, plus de 70 %. Parmi ces acides gras, l'acide gamma linolénique est présent à une concentration supérieure à 1 %.The fat content of amaranth seeds has been studied. The latter contain 8% on average, higher than cereals (2% in wheat). The fatty acid composition highlights the richness in unsaturated fatty acids, AGE, over 70%. Among these fatty acids, gamma linolenic acid is present at a concentration greater than 1%.
Le contenu minéral total (cendres) des graines des espèces d'amarante est généralement plus élevé que dans les autres graines céréalières. La farine d'amarante convenablement broyée contient 10 fois plus de fer, 7 fois plus de calcium et 4 fois plus de zinc que la farine de blé du commerce. Les graines d'amarante ont une haute concentration en calcium (201-308 mg/100 g) et en fer ( 15-11 1 mg/100 g).The total mineral content (ash) in the seeds of amaranth species is generally higher than in other cereal seeds. Properly ground amaranth flour contains 10 times more iron, 7 times more calcium and 4 times more zinc than commercial wheat flour. Amaranth seeds have a high concentration of calcium (201-308 mg / 100 g) and iron (15-11 1 mg / 100 g).
Le taux de calcium des graines d'amarante est supérieur à celui du lait. Peu de travaux renseignent sur la biodisponibilité ou le choix du meilleur aliment pour apporter ce calcium sous une forme facilement assimilable.The calcium level of amaranth seeds is higher than that of milk. Few studies provide information on bioavailability or the choice of the best food to provide this calcium in an easily assimilated form.
Les graines d'amarante ont une concentration en vitamines différente de celle du blé. Elle est plus élevée en ce qui concerne la riboflavine et l'acide ascorbique, et inférieure pour la thiamine et la niacine.Amaranth seeds have a different vitamin concentration than that of wheat. It is higher for riboflavin and ascorbic acid, and lower for thiamine and niacin.
La présente invention concerne donc en premier lieu un extrait de graines d'amarante, utile en dermo-cosmétique pour ses propriétés adoucissantes et hydratantes.The present invention therefore relates firstly to an extract of amaranth seeds, useful in dermo-cosmetics for its softening and moisturizing properties.
Cet extrait peut être obtenu par extraction des graines, év- * uellement broyées ou aplaties, par un solvant approprié, à une température comprise entre la température ambiante et la température d'ébullition du solvant, puis par récupération de la phase liquide, laquelle est ensuite traitée d'une manière appropriée pour obtenir une solution aqueuse d'extrait d'amarante. Cette solution peut être ensuite stabilisée et/ou stérilisée, ou encore le solvant peut être évaporé jusqu'à l'obtention d'un extrait d'amarante sec, solide, pulvérulent. Le solvant approprié est avantageusement choisi parmi l'eau, les alcools aliphatiques en C 1 -C4, l'acétone, ou leurs mélanges en toutes proportions, en particulier les mélanges eau / acétone ou eau / alcool, dans des proportions variant de 0 à 100 % d'acétone ou d'alcool. Le rapport pondéral graine d'amarante / solvant peut être compris avantageusement entre 1/5 et 1/20.This extract can be obtained by extracting the seeds, optionally ground or flattened, with an appropriate solvent, at a temperature between room temperature and the boiling point of the solvent, then by recovery of the liquid phase, which is then treated appropriately to obtain an aqueous solution of amaranth extract. This solution can then be stabilized and / or sterilized, or the solvent can be evaporated until a dry, solid, powdery amaranth extract is obtained. The appropriate solvent is advantageously chosen from water, C 1 -C 4 aliphatic alcohols, acetone, or mixtures thereof in all proportions, in particular water / acetone or water / alcohol mixtures, in proportions varying from 0 100% acetone or alcohol. The weight ratio of amaranth seed / solvent can advantageously be between 1/5 and 1/20.
La durée d'extraction est préférentiellement comprise entre 1 heure et 24 heures.The extraction time is preferably between 1 hour and 24 hours.
L'homme du métier saura déterminer les conditions opératoires appropriées pour l'obtention du produit recherché, notamment pour ce qui concerne l'agitation du milieu d'extraction, ou encore le nombre d'opérations d'extractions effectuées sur un même substrat.Those skilled in the art will be able to determine the appropriate operating conditions for obtaining the desired product, in particular as regards the stirring of the extraction medium, or even the number of extraction operations carried out on the same substrate.
Après extraction, la séparation solide / liquide s'effectue par filtration, essorage ou décantation. Lorsque le solvant d'extraction est constitué d'alcool et/ou d'acétone, on traite l'extrait liquide obtenu par l'addition d'une quantité appropriée d'eau.After extraction, the solid / liquid separation is carried out by filtration, spinning or decantation. When the extraction solvent consists of alcohol and / or acetone, the liquid extract obtained is treated by the addition of an appropriate quantity of water.
Les solvants organiques, alcool et acétone, sont ensuite évaporés, notamment sous vide, jusqu'à l'obtention d'une solution aqueuse. Cette opération d'ajout d'un volume approprié d'eau peut être facultative lorsque le solvant d'extraction est de l'eau ou un mélange eau / alcool ou eau / acétone.The organic solvents, alcohol and acetone, are then evaporated, in particular under vacuum, until an aqueous solution is obtained. This operation of adding an appropriate volume of water may be optional when the extraction solvent is water or a water / alcohol or water / acetone mixture.
La solution aqueuse contenant l'extrait d'amarante peut être stérilisée ou stabilisée par addition d'un solvant comme le propylène glycol, la glycérine, le transcutol, un conservateur microbien, un gélifiant de type polysaccharidique.The aqueous solution containing the amaranth extract can be sterilized or stabilized by the addition of a solvent such as propylene glycol, glycerin, transcutol, a microbial preservative, a gelling agent of the polysaccharide type.
Le séchage peut être également poussé jusqu'à l'obtention d'une poudre.Drying can also be carried out until a powder is obtained.
Les extraits d'amarante sont caractérisés par la présence d'un précipité blanchâtre obtenu par addition d'éthanol, précipité qui traduit la présence de polymère comme l'amidon et les protéines. Une chromatographie sur couche mince identifie la présence d'acides aminés et des sucres simples. Enfin, les carbohydrates, sucres simples et amidon peuvent être dosés par la technique du réactif à l'anthrone. Leur teneur se situe entre 1 et 50 % par rapport à la matière sèche. La présente invention concerne également des compositions dermo-cosmétiques comprenant un extrait d'amarante défini ci-dessus.Amaranth extracts are characterized by the presence of a whitish precipitate obtained by the addition of ethanol, a precipitate which reflects the presence of polymer such as starch and proteins. Thin layer chromatography identifies the presence of amino acids and simple sugars. Finally, carbohydrates, simple sugars and starch can be determined by the anthrone reagent technique. Their content is between 1 and 50% compared to the dry matter. The present invention also relates to dermo-cosmetic compositions comprising an amaranth extract defined above.
Ces compositions peuvent être présentées sous la forme de shampooing, de gel, de mousse, de crème, etc., pour une application topique. D'une manière avantageuse, il s'agit d'un gel utile pour la douche du corps et des cheveux.These compositions can be presented in the form of shampoo, gel, foam, cream, etc., for topical application. Advantageously, it is a gel useful for showering the body and the hair.
Les compositions selon l'invention comprennent avantageusement entre 0,5 et 10 % en poids d'extrait d'amarante, plus avantageusement entre 1 et 5 % en poids. La composition selon l'invention comprend également des composants usuels des compositions dermo-cosmétiques, tels que des agents tensio-actifs anioniques, non ioniques, cationiques ou amphotères, des agents stabilisants, gélifiants, volumateurs, démêlants, viscosants, conservateurs, des extraits protéiques, parfums, colorants, etc. D'une manière avantageuse, les compositions selon l'invention comprennent :The compositions according to the invention advantageously comprise between 0.5 and 10% by weight of amaranth extract, more advantageously between 1 and 5% by weight. The composition according to the invention also comprises the usual components of dermo-cosmetic compositions, such as anionic, nonionic, cationic or amphoteric surfactants, stabilizing agents, gelling agents, volumizers, detanglers, viscosants, preservatives, protein extracts , perfumes, dyes, etc. Advantageously, the compositions according to the invention comprise:
. 0,5 à 10 % d'extrait d'amarante, . 0 à 15 % d'agents tensio-actifs, . 0 à 5 % d'un extrait protéique, . 0 à 5 % d'agents démêlants, . 0 à 5 % d'agents viscosants, . 0 à 5 % d'agents volumateurs, et . 50 à 90 % d'eau.. 0.5 to 10% amaranth extract,. 0 to 15% of surfactants,. 0 to 5% of a protein extract,. 0 to 5% of detangling agents,. 0 to 5% viscosifiers,. 0 to 5% of volumizing agents, and. 50 to 90% water.
De préférence, les compositions selon l'invention comprennent : . 1 à 5 % d'extrait d'amarante, . 5 à 10 % d'agents tensio-actifs, . 1 à 4 % d'extraits protéiques, . 1 à 3 % d'agents viscosants, et . 65 à 80 % d'eau. Elles peuvent comprendre en outre de 0, 1 à 0, 5 % d'agents surgraissants, comme par exemple des triglycérides.Preferably, the compositions according to the invention comprise:. 1 to 5% of amaranth extract,. 5 to 10% of surfactants,. 1 to 4% of protein extracts,. 1 to 3% viscosifiers, and. 65 to 80% water. They can also comprise from 0.1 to 0.5% of superfatting agents, such as for example triglycerides.
Les extraits protéiques sont notamment des lipoprotéines, des glycoprotéines ou des hydrolysats de protéines d'origine animale ou végétale.Protein extracts are in particular lipoproteins, glycoproteins or hydrolysates of proteins of animal or vegetable origin.
Les agents démêlants sont notamment des gommes d'origine végétale comme la gomme de guar, ou des émulsions de silicones cationiques.Detangling agents are in particular gums of plant origin such as guar gum, or cationic silicone emulsions.
Les agents viscosants sont notamment des amides tels que le cocamide diéthanolamine. Les agents volumateurs sont notamment des polymères cationiques. D'autres caractéristiques des extraits et compositions selon l'invention apparaîtront à la lumière des exemples ci-après.The viscosifiers are in particular amides such as cocamide diethanolamine. The volumizing agents are in particular cationic polymers. Other characteristics of the extracts and compositions according to the invention will appear in the light of the examples below.
Exemple 1Example 1
1 kg de graines d'amarante sont aplaties puis placées dans un réacteur avec 12 1 d'eau. L'extraction est effectuée sous reflux pendant 1 heure puis les graines extraites sont éliminées par essorage. On ajoute au filtrat une quantité d'eau nécessaire afin d'obtenir un extrait de 10 kg, 100 g d'une gomme xanthane (type Keltrol). L'extrait est autoclave pour stérilisation puis additionné d'un conservateur microbien type Euxil K 400. Les carbohydrates sont dosés, leur teneur varie entre 30 et 40 % par rapport à la matière sèche. Les sucres, les acides aminés, l'amidon et les protéines sont identifiés.1 kg of amaranth seeds are flattened and then placed in a reactor with 12 l of water. The extraction is carried out under reflux for 1 hour then the extracted seeds are removed by wringing. Is added to the filtrate an amount of water necessary to obtain an extract of 10 kg, 100 g of a xanthan gum (Keltrol type). The extract is autoclave for sterilization then added with a microbial preservative type Euxil K 400. The carbohydrates are dosed, their content varies between 30 and 40% compared to the dry matter. Sugars, amino acids, starch and proteins are identified.
Exemple 2Example 2
100 kg de graines d'amarante sont extraites avec 700 kg d'éthanol 30 % sous agitation à température ambiante. Les solutions sont récupérées par décantation puis filtration, concentrées puis séchées sous vide. On obtient ainsi 16 kg d'une poudre blanche contenant 10 à 15 % de carbohydrates.100 kg of amaranth seeds are extracted with 700 kg of 30% ethanol with stirring at room temperature. The solutions are recovered by decantation then filtration, concentrated then dried under vacuum. 16 kg of a white powder are thus obtained containing 10 to 15% of carbohydrates.
Exemple 3Example 3
3 kg de graines d'amarante broyées sont extraites avec 30 kg d'eau sous agitation à température ambiante. Les solutions sont récupérées par essorage, sont concentrées jusqu'à l'obtention de 6 kg puis additionnées de 6 kg de propylène glycol. La solution finale est filtrée à travers un filtre 0,2 μm stérilisable puis analysée. Les sucres, acides aminés, protéines sont identifiés. Les sucres sont dosés entre 10 et 20 % par rapport à la matière sèche. Exemple 43 kg of ground amaranth seeds are extracted with 30 kg of water with stirring at room temperature. The solutions are recovered by wringing, are concentrated until 6 kg are obtained and then 6 kg of propylene glycol are added. The final solution is filtered through a 0.2 μm sterilizable filter and then analyzed. Sugars, amino acids, proteins are identified. The sugars are dosed between 10 and 20% compared to the dry matter. Example 4
Evaluation des effets hydratants d'un extrait d'amarante chez l'homme à l'aide de la cornéométrieEvaluation of the moisturizing effects of an amaranth extract in humans using corneometry
Cette activité est recherchée sur un extrait aqueux d'amarante titrant 35 % en carbohydrate par rapport à sa matière sèche. La méthode d'évaluation est basée sur une mesure électrique. L'eau peut en effet être considérée comme un dipôle électrique capable de conduire l'électricité. Le transport d'électricité dans un champ donné est proportionnel à la quantité d'eau présente dans le stratum corneum.This activity is sought on an aqueous extract of amaranth titrating 35% in carbohydrate compared to its dry matter. The evaluation method is based on an electrical measurement. Water can indeed be considered as an electric dipole capable of driving electricity. The transport of electricity in a given field is proportional to the amount of water present in the stratum corneum.
Plus une peau est riche en eau et plus le courant électrique passe rapidement entre deux électrodes. Les mesures cornéométriques concernant l'extrait d'amarante ont été faites chez huit sujets au niveau de l'avant-bras.The more water rich in skin, the faster the electric current flows between two electrodes. The corneometric measurements concerning the amaranth extract were made in eight subjects at the level of the forearm.
Quatre emplacements ont été déterminés, deux pour l'application de l'extrait d'amarante, les deux autres servant de témoin.Four locations were determined, two for the application of the amaranth extract, the other two serving as a control.
Les indices d'hydratation ont été relevés toutes les 5 minutes pendant les 15 minutes suivant l'application de l'extrait d'amarante puis toutes les 15 minutes durant 2 heures 30.The hydration indices were noted every 5 minutes for the 15 minutes following the application of the amaranth extract and then every 15 minutes for 2 hours 30 minutes.
Les effets hydratants de l'extrait d'amarante se manifestent dès les premières 15 minutes et demeurent constants durant les 2 heures 30. On observe un différentiel de 25 % par rapport au témoin.The hydrating effects of the amaranth extract appear from the first 15 minutes and remain constant for 2 hours 30 minutes. There is a differential of 25% compared to the control.
Exemple 5Example 5
Evaluation des effets adoucissants et hydratantsEvaluation of softening and hydrating effects
Deux formules de shampooing en tout point identiques, sauf sur la présence ou l'absence de 3 % d'extrait d'amarante, sont testées de façon aveugle par un groupe de 18 consommateurs. Ces derniers sont divisés en deux groupes de 9 personnes. Le premier groupe teste le shampooing avec l'extrait d'amarante durant 1 mois, puis durant encore 1 mois le shampooing sans extrait d'amarante. Le deuxième groupe teste en premier durant 1 mois le shampooing sans extrait d'amarante, puis le shampooing avec l'extrait. Les shampooings sont utilisés 2 fois par semaine. Le produit est appliqué sur le cuir chevelu, le massage se déroule durant 1 minute, un repos de 3 à 5 minutes est respecté avant le rinçage.Two shampoo formulas that are identical in all respects, except for the presence or absence of 3% amaranth extract, are blindly tested by a group of 18 consumers. These are divided into two groups of 9 people. The first group tests the shampoo with amaranth extract for 1 month, then for another 1 month the shampoo without amaranth extract. The second group first tests for 1 month the shampoo without amaranth extract, then the shampoo with the extract. Shampoos are used twice a week. The product is applied to the scalp, the massage takes place for 1 minute, a rest of 3 to 5 minutes is observed before rinsing.
Les deux groupes notent les sensations de douceur, d'hydratation du cuir chevelu mais aussi le démêlage, le volume et la lourdeur des cheveux. Le shampooing contenant l'extrait d'amarante est noté adoucissant par " personnes du premier groupe et 8 personnes du second. La sensation du cuir chevelu hydraté est notée également par 7 personnes des deux groupes, les qualités de démêlage et de volume se situant au même niveau pour les deux produits.The two groups note the sensations of softness, hydration of the scalp but also the disentangling, the volume and the heaviness of the hair. The shampoo containing the amaranth extract is noted softening by "people of the first group and 8 people of the second. The sensation of the hydrated scalp is also noted by 7 people of the two groups, the qualities of disentangling and volume being located at same level for both products.
Les propriétés adoucissante et hydratante démontrées, mais aussi nutritive par la richesse en acides aminés, protéines et lipides, font des extraits d'amarante un actif de choix en dermo-cosmétologie. Exemples de formulationsThe softening and hydrating properties demonstrated, but also nutritious by the richness in amino acids, proteins and lipids, make amaranth extracts an asset of choice in dermo-cosmetology. Examples of formulations
1 ) Shampooing doux démêlant1) Gentle detangling shampoo
( %) Extrait d'amarante, 3(%) Amaranth extract, 3
D-Panthénol, 0,10D-Panthenol, 0.10
Jaguar Cl 35, 0,25Jaguar Cl 35, 0.25
Propylène glycol, 0,75Propylene glycol, 0.75
Cocamidopropyl bétaïne, 1,80 Lipoprotéines, 4Cocamidopropyl betaine, 1.80 Lipoproteins, 4
Sodium lauryléthersulfate, 5Sodium laurylethersulfate, 5
Cocamide DEA 2,50Cocamide DEA 2.50
Base nacrante, (20 %), 6Pearl base, (20%), 6
Polyquaternium 7, 0,15 Parfums, colorants, acide citrique, CSPolyquaternium 7, 0.15 Perfumes, dyes, citric acid, CS
Eau déminéralisée, QSP 100Demineralized water, QSP 100
2) Gel douche corps et cheveux2) Body and hair shower gel
( %) Extrait d'amarante, 5(%) Amaranth extract, 5
Triglycéride végétal, 0,15Vegetable triglyceride, 0.15
Oleth 20, 0,20Oleth 20, 0.20
Hydrolysat de protéine, 2,5Protein hydrolyzate, 2.5
Décylpolyglycoside, 2 TEA-Lauryléthersulfate, 6Decylpolyglycoside, 2 TEA-Laurylethersulfate, 6
Cocamidopropyl bétaïne, 2,50Cocamidopropyl betaine, 2.50
Akyposal 2010 SD, 10Akyposal 2010 SD, 10
Cocamide DEA, 2Cocamide DEA, 2
Parfum, conservateur, Q> Eau déminéralisée, QSP 100Perfume, preservative, Q> Demineralized water, QSP 100
3) Mousse protectrice sans rinçage3) Protective foam without rinsing
( %)(%)
Extrait d'amarante, 1 Merquat 3330, 3Amaranth extract, 1 Merquat 3330, 3
Polyquaternium 22, 1,50Polyquaternium 22, 1.50
Agent amphotère, 0,9 Ethanol dénaturé, 8 Emulsion silicone cationique, Parfum, 05Amphoteric agent, 0.9 Denatured ethanol, 8 Cationic silicone emulsion, Perfume, 05
Eau déminéralisée, Aérogaz 3,2, esDemineralized water, Aérogaz 3,2, es
4) Crème capillaire cheveux secs4) Hair cream for dry hair
( %)(%)
Extrait d'amarante, 5 Huile d'amande douce, 1Amaranth extract, 5 Sweet almond oil, 1
Glycérine,Glycerin,
Glycoprotéines de lait, 0,5Milk glycoproteins, 0.5
Squalane végétal, 0,3Vegetable squalane, 0.3
Lécithines de soja, 0,15 Huile minérale épaisse, 0,5Soy lecithins, 0.15 Thick mineral oil, 0.5
Alcool cétyl-stéarylique, 2Cetylstearyl alcohol, 2
Ceteareth-33, 6Ceteareth-33, 6
Propylène glycol, 2Propylene glycol, 2
Stéapyrium chlorure, 2 Parfum, conservateur, C6Stéapyrium chloride, 2 Perfume, preservative, C6
Eau déminéralisée, Q5P 100Demineralized water, Q5P 100
Fonctions des principaux excipients :Functions of the main excipients:
Jaquar C 135 (agent de démêlage)Jaquar C 135 (disentangling agent)
Cocamidopropylbétaine j agents moussantsCocamidopropylbétaine j foaming agents
Sodium lauryléthersulfate }Sodium laurylethersulfate}
Cocamide DEA (viscosant)Cocamide DEA (viscosity)
Polyquaternium 7 (agent volumateur)Polyquaternium 7 (volumizing agent)
Triglycéride végétal (surgraissant)Vegetable triglyceride (superfatting)
Oleth 20 (hydrosolubiliseur)Oleth 20 (water solubilizer)
Décylpolyglycoside } agents tensio-actifsDecylpolyglycoside} surfactants
TEA-lauryléthersulfate jTEA-laurylethersulfate j
Merquat 3330 (polymère volumateur)Merquat 3330 (volumizing polymer)
Emulsion silicone cationique (démêlant)Cationic silicone emulsion (detangler)
Ceteareth 33 (émulsionnant)Ceteareth 33 (emulsifier)
Stéapyrium chlorure (démêlant). Stéapyrium chloride (detangler).

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1 ) Extrait d'amarante susceptible d'être obtenu par extraction des graines, éventuellement broyées ou aplaties, par un solvant approprié, à une température comprise entre la température ambiante et la température d'ébullition du solvant, puis par récupération de la phase liquide, laquelle est ensuite traitée d'une manière appropriée pour obtenir une solution aqueuse d'extrait d'amarante.1) Amaranth extract capable of being obtained by extracting the seeds, optionally ground or flattened, with an appropriate solvent, at a temperature between room temperature and the boiling point of the solvent, then by recovery of the liquid phase , which is then suitably treated to obtain an aqueous solution of amaranth extract.
2) Extrait selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que la solution aqueuse est ensuite stabilisée et/ou stérilisée.2) Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the aqueous solution is then stabilized and / or sterilized.
3) Extrait selon la revendication 1 , caractérisé en ce que le solvant peut être évaporé jusqu'à l'obtention d'un extrait d'amarante sec, solide, pulvérulent.3) Extract according to claim 1, characterized in that the solvent can be evaporated until a dry, solid, pulverulent amaranth extract is obtained.
4) Extrait selon l'une des revendications 1 à 3, caractérisé en ce que le solvant approprié est avantageusement choisi parmi l'eau, les alcools aliphatiques en C1-C4, l'acétone, ou leurs mélanges en toutes proportions.4) Extract according to one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the appropriate solvent is advantageously chosen from water, aliphatic alcohols C1-C 4 , acetone, or their mixtures in all proportions.
5) Extrait selon l'une des revendications 1 à 4, caractérisé en ce que le rapport pondéral graine d'amarante / solvant est compris entre 1/5 et 1/20. 6) Composition dermo-cosmétique comprenant un extrait d'amarante selon l'une des revendications 1 à 5.5) Extract according to one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the weight ratio of amaranth seed / solvent is between 1/5 and 1/20. 6) Dermo-cosmetic composition comprising an amaranth extract according to one of claims 1 to 5.
7) Composition selon la revendication 6, caractérisée en ce qu'elle se présente sous forme de shampooing, de gel, de mousse ou de crème.7) Composition according to claim 6, characterized in that it is in the form of shampoo, gel, foam or cream.
8) Composition selon l'une des revendications 6 ou 7, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend entre 0,5 et 10 % en poids d'extrait d'amarante.8) Composition according to one of claims 6 or 7, characterized in that it comprises between 0.5 and 10% by weight of amaranth extract.
9) Composition selon l'une des revendications 6 à 8, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend :9) Composition according to one of claims 6 to 8, characterized in that it comprises:
. 0,5 à 10 % d'extrait d'amarante,. 0.5 to 10% amaranth extract,
. 0 à 15 % d'agents tensio-actifs, . 0 à 5 % d'un extrait protéique,. 0 to 15% of surfactants,. 0 to 5% of a protein extract,
. 0 à 5 % d'agents démêlants,. 0 to 5% of detangling agents,
. 0 à 5 % d'agents viscosants,. 0 to 5% viscosifiers,
. 0 à 5 % d'agents volumateurs, et. 0 to 5% of volumizing agents, and
. 50 à 90 % d'eau. 10) Composition selon l'une des revendications 6 à 9, caractérisée en ce qu'elle comprend : . 1 à 5 % d'extrait d'amarante, . 5 à 10 % d'agents tensio-actifs, . 1 à 4 % d'extraits protéiques, . 1 à 3 % d'agents viscosants, et 5 . 65 à 80 % d'eau. . 50 to 90% water. 10) Composition according to one of claims 6 to 9, characterized in that it comprises: . 1 to 5% of amaranth extract,. 5 to 10% of surfactants,. 1 to 4% of protein extracts,. 1 to 3% viscosifiers, and 5. 65 to 80% water.
PCT/FR1997/000489 1996-03-21 1997-03-20 Amaranth seed extract and skin cosmetic composition containing same WO1997034579A1 (en)

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FR9603510A FR2746303B1 (en) 1996-03-21 1996-03-21 AMARANTE SEED EXTRACT AND DERMO-COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING THE SAME
FR96/03510 1996-03-21

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EP1752138A2 (en) 2005-08-11 2007-02-14 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Amaranth seed oil in hair compositions
EP1379215B1 (en) 2001-03-30 2015-09-16 L'Oréal Cosmetic compositions containing a starch phosphate and a cationic polymer and uses thereof

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FR2820744B1 (en) 2001-02-14 2003-04-11 Oreal NOVEL PYRAZOLO-TRIAZOLES AND USE OF THESE COMPOUNDS FOR DYEING KERATINIC FIBERS
FR2904545B1 (en) * 2006-08-03 2013-01-18 Soc Extraction Principes Actif USE OF AMARANTE EXTRACT AS ACTIVE AGENT FOR INCREASING THE SYNTHESIS OF MELANIN IN MELANOCYTES
WO2008015341A2 (en) * 2006-08-03 2008-02-07 Societe D'extraction Des Principes Actifs Sa (Vincience) Use of a plant extract as active agent for increasing melanin synthesis in melanocytes

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EP1379215B1 (en) 2001-03-30 2015-09-16 L'Oréal Cosmetic compositions containing a starch phosphate and a cationic polymer and uses thereof
EP1752138A2 (en) 2005-08-11 2007-02-14 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft auf Aktien Amaranth seed oil in hair compositions

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