FR2713086A1 - New cosmetic compositions containing simple polyols. - Google Patents

New cosmetic compositions containing simple polyols. Download PDF

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Publication number
FR2713086A1
FR2713086A1 FR9314575A FR9314575A FR2713086A1 FR 2713086 A1 FR2713086 A1 FR 2713086A1 FR 9314575 A FR9314575 A FR 9314575A FR 9314575 A FR9314575 A FR 9314575A FR 2713086 A1 FR2713086 A1 FR 2713086A1
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Prior art keywords
cosmetic compositions
polyols
skin
cosmetic
xylitol
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Granted
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FR9314575A
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French (fr)
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FR2713086B1 (en
Inventor
Sederma
Greff Daniel
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Sederma SA
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Sederma SA
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Priority to FR9314575A priority Critical patent/FR2713086B1/en
Priority to AU71885/94A priority patent/AU7188594A/en
Priority to PCT/FR1994/000795 priority patent/WO1995015149A1/en
Publication of FR2713086A1 publication Critical patent/FR2713086A1/en
Application granted granted Critical
Publication of FR2713086B1 publication Critical patent/FR2713086B1/en
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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/60—Sugars; Derivatives thereof
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/30—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds
    • A61K8/33—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing organic compounds containing oxygen
    • A61K8/34—Alcohols
    • A61K8/345—Alcohols containing more than one hydroxy group
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/75—Anti-irritant

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Emergency Medicine (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Le brevet décrit l'utilisation de certains polyols simples (xylitol, xylulose, lactitol, arabinol, adonitol et leurs combinaisons) dans des préparations cosmétiques. Les polyols choisis favorisent le rééquilibrage de la flore cutanée au détriment des germes pathogènes.The patent describes the use of certain simple polyols (xylitol, xylulose, lactitol, arabinol, adonitol and their combinations) in cosmetic preparations. The polyols chosen promote the rebalancing of the skin flora to the detriment of pathogenic germs.

Description

La flore microbienne de la peau humaine est très complexe. On y trouve des germes aérobies, anaérobies, des germes gram positifs et gram négatifs, des levures. En général on distingue la flore naturelle, résidente et non pathogène de la flore exogène qui s'installe par invasion lors d'un affaiblissement des défenses naturelles, d'une plaie, d'une infection en générale.The microbial flora of human skin is very complex. There are aerobic, anaerobic, gram positive and gram negative germs, yeasts. In general, a distinction is made between the natural, resident and non-pathogenic flora of the exogenous flora which settles by invasion during a weakening of the natural defenses, a wound, an infection in general.

L'écologie de la flore cutanée est loin d'être élucidée. L'importance de la présence ou de l'absence de l'une ou l'autre espèce n'est pas connue en détail.The ecology of the skin flora is far from elucidated. The importance of the presence or absence of either species is not known in detail.

Cependant, il est généralement admis que la flore résidente, naturelle, joue un rôle protecteur dans la mesure où elle "occupe le terrain", où elle sécrète parfois des substances antimicrobiennes (antibiotiques) qui défendent la peau contre d'autres espèces et où elle maintient le système défensif de la peau (système immunitaire) en éveil.However, it is generally accepted that the resident, natural flora plays a protective role insofar as it "occupies the ground", where it sometimes secretes antimicrobial substances (antibiotics) which defend the skin against other species and where it keeps the skin's defensive system (immune system) alert.

II a été remarqué, dans des milieux hospitaliers par exemple, que le lavage et la désinfection répétée des mains des infirmières ou des chirurgiens pouvait perturber la flore cutanée, son équilibre naturel, et donc favoriser l'établissement d'espèces microbiennes exogènes, voire pathogènes au détriment de la flore naturelle.  It has been noted, in hospital environments for example, that repeated washing and disinfection of the hands of nurses or surgeons could disturb the skin flora, its natural balance, and therefore favor the establishment of exogenous, even pathogenic microbial species at the expense of natural flora.

L'objet de la présente invention est la découverte que l'utilisation de certains polyols dans des préparations cosmétiques permettait de maintenir un équilibre microbien bénéfique sur la peau, même et surtout après des agressions répétées. Ces polyols (xylitol et lactitol en particulier, mais aussi arabinol, adonitol, xylulose et leurs combinaisons) d'origine végétale, synthétique ou biotechnologique sont connus dans le domaine de l'alimentation humaine et animale. On les utilise pour remplacer le saccharose comme édulcorant, d'une part pour diminuer l'apport calorique d'un aliment, et d'autre part pour réduire le pouvoir cariogène des sucres en général. C'est ce dernier aspect qui est particulièrement intéressant: le xylitol par exemple, inhibe la croissance du Streptococcus mutans, un des germes responsables de la formation de carie dentaire. Le lactitol (4-O-(ss-galactosyl)-D-glucitol), obtenu par hydrogénation partielle du lactose, possède des propriétés similaires.The object of the present invention is the discovery that the use of certain polyols in cosmetic preparations made it possible to maintain a beneficial microbial balance on the skin, even and especially after repeated attacks. These polyols (xylitol and lactitol in particular, but also arabinol, adonitol, xylulose and their combinations) of plant, synthetic or biotechnological origin are known in the field of human and animal nutrition. They are used to replace sucrose as a sweetener, on the one hand to reduce the caloric intake of a food, and on the other hand to reduce the cariogenic power of sugars in general. It is this last aspect which is particularly interesting: xylitol for example, inhibits the growth of Streptococcus mutans, one of the germs responsible for the formation of dental caries. Lactitol (4-O- (ss-galactosyl) -D-glucitol), obtained by partial hydrogenation of lactose, has similar properties.

En particulier, il a été découvert, ce qui n'était ni connu ni soupçonné, que ces polyols seuls ou en combinaison entre eux possèdent une activité inhibitrice sélective dirigée contre les germes pathogènes de la flore cutanée, tout en stimulant la croissance des germes saprophytes, résidents de la peau saine.In particular, it has been discovered, which was neither known nor suspected, that these polyols alone or in combination with one another have a selective inhibitory activity directed against pathogenic germs of the skin flora, while stimulating the growth of saprophytic germs , residents of healthy skin.

Des études in vitro montrent en effet que la vitesse de croissance d'Escherichia coli, du Staphylococcus aureus et d'autres microorganismes est diminuée en présence de xylitol, de lactitol, d'arabinol, alors que les germes du genre Corynebacterium spp. (xerosis, granulosum, minutissimum), résidents de la peau, sont au contraire, favorisés dans ce milieu. L'inhibition des uns peut atteindre 30%, voire 50%, alors que la stimulation de la croissance des autres va jusqu'à 100%. In vitro studies show that the growth rate of Escherichia coli, Staphylococcus aureus and other microorganisms is reduced in the presence of xylitol, lactitol, arabinol, while germs of the genus Corynebacterium spp. (xerosis, granulosum, minutissimum), residents of the skin, are on the contrary, favored in this environment. The inhibition of some can reach 30%, even 50%, while the stimulation of the growth of others goes up to 100%.

L'utilisation de ces polyols dans des produits cosmétiques de soin et d'hygiène corporelle pour favoriser la flore naturelle cutanée est nouvelle.The use of these polyols in cosmetic care and personal hygiene products to promote the natural skin flora is new.

Un exemple d'application va illustrer cette utilisation.An example application will illustrate this use.

Une lotion fluide pour le visage et le corps contenant 2% de xylitol et 2% de lactitol a été préparée ainsi qu'une lotion identique sans ces polyols (placebo).A fluid lotion for the face and the body containing 2% of xylitol and 2% of lactitol was prepared as well as an identical lotion without these polyols (placebo).

Dix personnes volontaires ont participé au test en suivant le protocole cidessous:
Le visage est lavé avec un savon liquide de pH 7.5, puis rincé et séché.Ten volunteers participated in the test following the protocol below:
The face is washed with a liquid soap of pH 7.5, then rinsed and dried.

On mesure le pH cutané à l'aide d'une électrode spécifique de surface.The skin pH is measured using a specific surface electrode.

Un prélèvement de la flore microbienne est effectué à l'aide de plaques de gélose.A sample of the microbial flora is taken using agar plates.

Ensuite la lotion contenant les polyols est appliqué sur un des sites (partie gauche du visage), le placebo sur l'autre (partie droite du visage ou vice versa). Then the lotion containing the polyols is applied to one of the sites (left part of the face), the placebo to the other (right part of the face or vice versa).

On procède à une mesure du pH cutané ainsi qu'à un prélèvement microbien à des intervalles réguliers (1h, 2h, 4h, 6h).Skin pH is measured as well as a microbial sample at regular intervals (1h, 2h, 4h, 6h).

Résultats: le pH cutané augmente d'environ 1 unité (en moyenne) après le lavage et ne revient à sa valeur initiale qu'après 4 à 6 heures environ.Results: the skin pH increases by approximately 1 unit (on average) after washing and does not return to its initial value until after approximately 4 to 6 hours.

L'application de la lotion placebo ne modifie pas la cinétique de rétablissement du pH cutané de façon significative. La lotion du test permet cependant un retour au pH initial plus rapide (moyenne de 3 heures; p < 0.05).The application of the placebo lotion does not significantly modify the kinetics of skin pH restoration. However, the test lotion allows a faster return to the initial pH (average of 3 hours; p <0.05).

L'analyse de la flore cutanée révèle que dans le cas de l'utilisation de la lotion contenant les polyols il existe un meilleur équilibre parmi les espèces (Corynebacterium. Brevibacterium) comparé aux sites traités au placebo où l'on retrouve plus de Propionobactéries, de Staphylocoques et parfois des Candidaspp. The analysis of the skin flora reveals that in the case of the use of the lotion containing the polyols there is a better balance among the species (Corynebacterium. Brevibacterium) compared to the sites treated with placebo where there are more Propionobacteria, Staphylococci and sometimes Candidaspp.

Ces résultats sont confirmés dans une étude sur une période plus longue.These results are confirmed in a study over a longer period.

Dans ce cas, on constate par ailleurs un meilleur aspect de la peau traitée à la lotion contenant les polyols: plus souple, plus douce, plus hydratée, présentant moins de rougeurs et d'irritations.In this case, there is also a better appearance of the skin treated with a lotion containing the polyols: softer, softer, more hydrated, with less redness and irritation.

Les polyols objets du brevet peuvent trouver également une application dans le traitement du cuir chevelu (anti-pelliculaire) par leur action favorable à la flore naturelle par rapport aux microorganismes exogènes comme le pityrosporum ovale. The polyols which are the subject of the patent can also find an application in the treatment of the scalp (anti-dandruff) by their action favorable to the natural flora compared to exogenous microorganisms such as oval pityrosporum.

Les polyols peuvent être obtenus par extraction à partir des légumes ou plantes (cas du xylitol, arabinol, adonitol), soit, préférentiellement par hydrogénation catalytique des sucres simples comme le xylose pour le xylitol, le lactose pour le lactitol, I'arabinose pour l'arabinol, le ribose pour l'adonitol.Polyols can be obtained by extraction from vegetables or plants (case of xylitol, arabinol, adonitol), either, preferably by catalytic hydrogenation of simple sugars such as xylose for xylitol, lactose for lactitol, arabinose for l 'arabinol, ribose for adonitol.

Les polyols peuvent être utilisés seuls ou en combinaison entre eux; le xylitol et le lactitol, et en particulier la combinaison des deux dans les proportions 1:10 à 10:1 représentent les manifestations les plus efficaces de l'invention. Ils peuvent être employés dans les applications cosmétiques les plus diverses: pour tous les soins de la peau, pour l'hydratation et l'effet de lissage; il peuvent être également utiles dans le traitement du cuir chevelu et de la peau acnéique.The polyols can be used alone or in combination with one another; xylitol and lactitol, and in particular the combination of the two in the proportions 1:10 to 10: 1 represent the most effective manifestations of the invention. They can be used in the most diverse cosmetic applications: for all skin care, for hydration and smoothing effect; they can also be useful in the treatment of scalp and acne-prone skin.

Les polyols objet du présent brevet peuvent être utilisés dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique: émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, gels, pommades, huiles corporelles, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, sans que cette liste soit limitative.The polyols which are the subject of this patent can be used in any dosage form used in cosmetics: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body oils, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, without this list being exhaustive.

II est possible d'incorporer les polyols décrits dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, microet nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, de les absorber sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.  It is possible to incorporate the polyols described in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.

La concentration d'utilisation de ces polyols individuellement ou en combinaison peut varier entre 0.01 et 30%, préférentiellement entre 0.5 et 10% dans le produit fini. En dessous de ces valeurs, les effets sont négligeables, en dessus il est difficile de formuler un produit cosmétique acceptable.The concentration of use of these polyols individually or in combination can vary between 0.01 and 30%, preferably between 0.5 and 10% in the finished product. Below these values, the effects are negligible, above it is difficult to formulate an acceptable cosmetic product.

Les polyols peuvent être combinés dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits de plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins. Polyols can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or liposoluble active principles, plant extracts, tissue extracts , marine extracts.

Claims (10)

combinaison entre eux pour la régulation de la flore cutanée. combination between them for the regulation of the skin flora. xylitol, le lactitol, I'arabinol, I'adonitol et le xylulose seuls ou en xylitol, lactitol, arabinol, adonitol and xylulose alone or in combination REVENDICATIONS 1) Compositions cosmétiques contenant des polyols choisis parmi le CLAIMS 1) Cosmetic compositions containing polyols chosen from 2) Compositions cosmétiques, selon la revendication 1, caractérisées2) Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, characterized en ce que le polyol est le xylitol. in that the polyol is xylitol. 3) Compositions cosmétiques, selon la revendication 1, caractérisées3) Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, characterized en ce que le polyol est le lactitol. in that the polyol is lactitol. 4) Compositions cosmétiques, selon la revendication 1, caractérisées4) Cosmetic compositions according to claim 1, characterized en ce qu'elles contiennent un mélange de xylitol et de lactitol dans in that they contain a mixture of xylitol and lactitol in des proportions variant entre 1:10 et 10:1. proportions varying between 1:10 and 10: 1. 5) Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une quelconque des5) Cosmetic compositions, according to any one of revendications de 1 à 4, caractérisées en ce que les polyols sont Claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the polyols are obtenus par extraction à partir des légumes ou plantes, soit par obtained by extraction from vegetables or plants, either by hydrogénation catalytique des sucres simples (xylose, catalytic hydrogenation of simple sugars (xylose, lactose, arabinose, ribose). lactose, arabinose, ribose). 6) Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une quelconque des6) Cosmetic compositions, according to any one of revendications de 1 à 5, caractérisées en ce que la concentration claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the concentration de ces polyols seuls ou en combinaison varie entre 0.01 et 30% of these polyols alone or in combination varies between 0.01 and 30% préférentiellement entre 0.5 et 10%.  preferably between 0.5 and 10%. 7) Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une quelconque des7) Cosmetic compositions, according to any one of revendications de 1 à 6, caractérisées en ce que les polyols sont Claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the polyols are utilisés dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique, à used in any dosage form used in cosmetics, savoir les émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, gels, pommades, know O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, huiles pour le corps, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks body oils, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks et crayons, sprays. and pencils, sprays. 8) Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une quelconque des8) Cosmetic compositions, according to any one of revendications de 1 à 7, caractérisées en ce que les polyols sont Claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the polyols are incorporés dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, incorporated into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as les macro-, micro-et nanocapsules, ou absorbés sur des macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and others supports minéraux. mineral supports. 9) Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une quelconque des9) Cosmetic compositions, according to any one of revendications de 1 à 8, caractérisées en ce que les polyols sont Claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the polyols are combinés dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction lipids et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs and / or synthetic, gelling and viscous polymers, surfactants et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits de and emulsifiers, water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, extracts of plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins. plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts. 10) Compositions cosmétiques, selon l'une quelconque des10) Cosmetic compositions, according to any one of revendications de 1 à 9, caractérisées en ce que les claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the polyols sont utilisés dans les applications cosmétiques pour tous polyols are used in cosmetic applications for all les soins de la peau y compris l'amélioration de l'équilibre skin care including improving balance microbiologique de la flore cutanée, pour l'hydratation et l'effet de microbiological of the skin flora, for hydration and the effect of lissage, pour le traitement du cuir chevelu, de la peau acnéique et smoothing, for the treatment of the scalp, acne-prone skin and l'hygiène corporelle.  personal hygiene.
FR9314575A 1993-12-02 1993-12-02 New cosmetic compositions containing simple polyols. Expired - Fee Related FR2713086B1 (en)

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FR9314575A FR2713086B1 (en) 1993-12-02 1993-12-02 New cosmetic compositions containing simple polyols.
AU71885/94A AU7188594A (en) 1993-12-02 1994-06-30 Novel cosmetic compositions containing simple polyols
PCT/FR1994/000795 WO1995015149A1 (en) 1993-12-02 1994-06-30 Novel cosmetic compositions containing simple polyols

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WO2002076415A1 (en) * 2001-03-24 2002-10-03 Dietic Dr. Widmann Pharma + Diät Gmbh Anti-dandruff agent
WO2005011716A1 (en) * 2003-07-21 2005-02-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Prebiotically active plant extracts
WO2005033331A1 (en) * 2003-09-27 2005-04-14 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Method for the identification of substances with prebiotic effect
WO2005092279A1 (en) * 2004-03-18 2005-10-06 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Substances with a probiotic action used in deodorants
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WO2006061678A1 (en) * 2004-12-06 2006-06-15 Sederma Sas Cosmetic or dermatological compositiions of saccharose substitutes
FR2912055B1 (en) * 2007-02-06 2009-05-15 Idenov Lab COSMETIC COMPOSITION COMPRISING ANTI-INFLAMMATORY, REPAIRING, SOOTHING AND MOISTURIZING ACTIVE INGREDIENTS FOR CALMING SKIN IRRITATION

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Publication number Priority date Publication date Assignee Title
EP1050300A3 (en) * 1999-04-22 2000-11-22 Shiseido Company Limited Selective antibacterial composition
US6328984B1 (en) 1999-04-22 2001-12-11 Shiseido Co., Ltd. Selective antibacterial composition
EP1050300A2 (en) * 1999-04-22 2000-11-08 Shiseido Company Limited Selective antibacterial composition
WO2002076415A1 (en) * 2001-03-24 2002-10-03 Dietic Dr. Widmann Pharma + Diät Gmbh Anti-dandruff agent
DE10333245B4 (en) * 2003-07-21 2008-01-24 Henkel Kgaa Prebiotic plant extracts
WO2005011716A1 (en) * 2003-07-21 2005-02-10 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Prebiotically active plant extracts
DE10333245C5 (en) * 2003-07-21 2015-02-19 Henkel Ag & Co. Kgaa Prebiotic plant extracts
DE10344970A1 (en) * 2003-09-27 2005-04-28 Henkel Kgaa Method for the identification of prebiotically active substances
WO2005033331A1 (en) * 2003-09-27 2005-04-14 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Method for the identification of substances with prebiotic effect
WO2005092279A1 (en) * 2004-03-18 2005-10-06 Henkel Kommanditgesellschaft Auf Aktien Substances with a probiotic action used in deodorants
US8815538B2 (en) 2011-11-08 2014-08-26 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of making cosmetic compositions containing a prebiotic
US9271924B2 (en) 2011-11-08 2016-03-01 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of identifying prebiotics and compositions containing the same
US9289376B2 (en) 2011-11-08 2016-03-22 The Procter & Gamble Company Method of identifying prebiotics and compositions containing the same

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