CN116940330A - Use of short chain fatty acids as antidandruff agents - Google Patents

Use of short chain fatty acids as antidandruff agents Download PDF

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CN116940330A
CN116940330A CN202180086773.4A CN202180086773A CN116940330A CN 116940330 A CN116940330 A CN 116940330A CN 202180086773 A CN202180086773 A CN 202180086773A CN 116940330 A CN116940330 A CN 116940330A
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chain fatty
acid
short
skin
esters
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塔伦·乔普拉
韦都塔赖·拉舍德坎·里贾纳
斯科特·赖斯
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LOreal SA
National University of Singapore
Nanyang Technological University
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LOreal SA
National University of Singapore
Nanyang Technological University
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Priority claimed from PCT/EP2021/086855 external-priority patent/WO2022136302A1/en
Publication of CN116940330A publication Critical patent/CN116940330A/en
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Abstract

The present application relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to the cosmetic use of at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof, and mixtures thereof, or of a conditioned culture derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing such short-chain fatty acid, as an antidandruff agent, for preventing and/or treating skin desquamation disorders associated with the hyperproliferation of malassezia yeasts on the skin, and for maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing the excessive colonization of malassezia yeasts on the skin and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes.

Description

Use of short chain fatty acids as antidandruff agents
Technical Field
The present application relates to the field of cosmetics, in particular to the cosmetic use of at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or of conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing such short-chain fatty acids, as an antidandruff agent, for preventing and/or treating skin desquamation disorders associated with the hyperproliferation of Malassezia genus (Malassezia genus) on the skin, and for maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora (ecolora) of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing the excessive colonization of Malassezia yeasts on the skin and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes (Cutibacterium acnes).
Background
Desquamation disorders of the skin (desquamative disorder), such as dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, affect up to 50% of the world population. It has an impact on both men and women and is believed to have a very adverse psychosocial impact. The appearance of dandruff is not favored, not only by its aesthetic impact, but also by its discomfort (in particular stinging or itching), so that many people facing this problem wish to eliminate it effectively and permanently.
These conditions correspond to excessive and visible desquamation of the skin caused by excessive rapid proliferation of epidermal cells and their abnormal maturation. This phenomenon may be caused in particular by excessively aggressive skin or hair treatments, extreme climatic conditions, stress, diet, fatigue and pollution. Dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis symptoms are generally caused by disorders of the skin microflora, and more particularly by excessive colonization by fungi belonging to the malassezia family of yeasts (in particular the Malassezia restricta species of malassezia restrictum) and by the lower abundance of propionibacterium acnes compared to healthy scalp.
Many treatments/therapies have been developed aimed at eradicating Malassezia yeast (Malassezia yeast) in the skin. Thus, the activity of currently used active agents such as zinc pyrithione, piroctone olamine or selenium disulphide is based primarily on their fungicidal properties. However, it is well known that the antimicrobial effect of many of these conventional agents extends to at least one other bacterium and is therefore not selective for malassezia yeasts, particularly the limiting malassezia species, and thus kills or damages the beneficial skin commensal microflora.
Thus, in order to maintain and/or restore healthy skin microbial flora and thus respond to consumer needs, it has become a major challenge to find a solution for new active agents with selective growth inhibitory activity against malassezia yeasts (known to cause skin desquamation disorders), in particular limiting malassezia species.
Disclosure of Invention
The object of the present application is to provide an active agent which effectively inhibits the growth of malassezia yeasts (causing skin desquamation disorders), in particular limiting malassezia species, without extending its antimicrobial effect to other bacteria, in particular staphylococcus epidermidis (Staphylococcus epidermidis), and/or staphylococcus cephalopodii (Staphylococcus capitis) and/or propionibacterium acnes (Cutibacterium acnes), which together constitute the majority of the skin microbiota.
It is a further object of the present application to propose an active agent which is capable of maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes.
The applicant has surprisingly found that the cosmetic use of at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, having a chain length of not more than 5 carbon atoms, is effective in treating dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis symptoms associated with the proliferation of malassezia yeasts, without antimicrobial effect on staphylococcus epidermidis and propionibacterium acnes, contrary to the medium-chain fatty acids having a chain length of more than 6 carbon atoms (such as caproic acid, caprylic acid), ethyl caproate, glyceryl monocaprylate, propylene monocaprylate and metallic salts of short-chain fatty acids (such as zinc propionate) shown in example 3 of the present application.
In addition to selectivity for malassezia, the short chain fatty acids mediate reduced growth of propionibacterium acnes (a commensal skin bacterium) in dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis conditions.
Thus, these effects contribute to the rebalancing effect of the skin ecological flora.
Accordingly, one subject of the present application is the cosmetic use as antidandruff agent of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof.
A further subject of the application is the cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium obtained from at least one microorganism capable of one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, for the prevention and/or treatment of skin desquamation disorders (such as dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis) associated with the proliferation of malassezia yeasts, more particularly of the limiting malassezia species.
The application also relates to the cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium obtained from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, for maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts, more particularly by limiting malassezia species, and/or by mediating propionibacterium acnes growth.
Another subject of the present application is a cosmetic method intended for preventing and/or treating skin desquamation disorders such as dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis, associated with the proliferation of malassezia yeasts, more particularly of the limiting malassezia species, comprising: a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of i) at least one short chain fatty acid, or ii) a conditioned medium, wherein the at least one short chain fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof, and mixtures thereof, obtained from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof, and mixtures thereof, is applied to hair and/or skin.
Another subject of the application is a cosmetic method intended for maintaining and/or restoring the skin ecological flora at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts, more particularly by limiting malassezia species, and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes, comprising: applying to the hair and/or skin a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of i) at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof.
Definition of the definition
As used herein, the term "treatment" or "treatment" refers to any action intended to improve the comfort or health of an individual. Thus, the term encompasses alleviating, alleviating or inhibiting the symptoms of dandruff or seborrheic dermatitis, but is limited to cosmetic treatment/management only.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "non-metallic salts" refers to salts that are free of metal ions such as zinc ions, aluminum ions, copper ions, iron ions, and mixtures thereof.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "skin" refers to whole body skin, including scalp, preferably scalp skin and facial skin such as forehead, nose, cheek, chin, chest, neck.
As used herein, the term "skin ecological flora" refers to the naturally occurring microbial flora (microflora) on healthy skin, especially skin commensal microorganisms, such as staphylococcus epidermidis, and/or staphylococcus cephali, and/or propionibacterium acnes.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "preventing" refers to reducing the risk of phenomena, in particular dandruff and seborrheic dermatitis, occurring in the context of the present application.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "effective amount" refers to an amount sufficient to achieve the desired effect.
As used herein, the term "cosmetic composition" ("cosmetic composition") refers to a composition suitable for application to the skin, in particular a composition comprising a physiologically acceptable medium.
The term "physiologically acceptable medium" ("physiologically acceptable medium") refers to a medium suitable for topical application of the composition, i.e., a medium compatible with the skin of the face, body and scalp.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "short-chain fatty acid" ("short chain fatty acid") refers to carboxylic acids having aliphatic chains containing 3 to 5 carbon atoms, preferably carboxylic acids having aliphatic chains containing 3 carbon atoms.
Detailed description of the application
Short Chain Fatty Acids (SCFA)
As previously mentioned, one subject of the present application is the cosmetic use as anti-dandruff agent of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid, selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof.
The application also relates to the cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, for preventing and/or treating skin desquamation disorders such as dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis associated with proliferation of malassezia yeasts, in particular, of the limiting malassezia species.
The application also relates to the cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium obtained from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, for maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts, more particularly by limiting malassezia species, and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes.
The non-metallic salts of short chain fatty acids according to the application are particularly preferred and may be any safe and effective non-metallic salts of such acids. For purposes of illustration, certain preferred salts may include calcium, sodium, magnesium and potassium salts, with sodium salts being most particularly preferred.
As an additional illustration, amino acid salts may be used. For example, carnitine or lysine salts of short chain fatty acids according to the application may be used. One of ordinary skill will recognize that various other amino acids may also be used.
As examples of esters of propionic acid, butyric acid or valeric acid, any safe and effective ester of such an acid may be used. For example, when the SCFA is an ester of propionic acid, the component can be represented as follows:
wherein r1=ch 3 And R2 is an ester chain or an ester of propionic acid.
For example, the ester chain of the selected acid may be a straight or branched chain of carbon atoms, typically containing about 8 or fewer carbon atoms. The ester chain more preferably contains from 1 to about 5 carbon atoms and may likewise be linear (e.g., n-propyl) or branched (e.g., isopropyl). Highly preferred ester chains include those that form methyl esters (i.e., R2 is-CH 3), ethyl esters, n-propyl esters, isopropyl esters, n-butyl esters, isobutyl esters, and mixtures thereof. For illustration, methyl propionate, ethyl propionate, n-propyl propionate, isopropyl propionate, n-butyl propionate, isobutyl propionate are examples of propionate that may be used herein. Such esters of propionic acid, butyric acid or valeric acid may also be selected.
As examples of short chain fatty acids, mention may be made of sodium propionate (ref.p1880) sold by Sigma; sodium butyrate (ref.303410); valeric acid (ref.75054).
In particular embodiments, the short chain fatty acids are obtained from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids. The at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of: lactobacillus (Lactobacillus spp), bifidobacterium (Bifidobacterium spp), luminococcus (Ruminococcus spp), rogowski (Roseburia spp), akkermansia muciniphila (Akkermansia muciniphila), enterobacter faecalis (Faecalibacterium spp), eubacterium rectum (Eubacterium rectale) and propionibacterium acnes, preferably lactobacillus, bifidobacterium and propionibacterium acnes, more preferably propionibacterium acnes, such as propionibacterium acnes strain ATCC 6919.
In another embodiment, the short chain fatty acids according to the application are contained in a conditioned medium (or supernatant) from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids.
The at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids may be selected from the group consisting of: lactobacillus, bifidobacterium, luminococcus, rochanterium, akaman, enterobacter, eubacterium recti and propionibacterium acnes, preferably lactobacillus, bifidobacterium and propionibacterium acnes, more preferably propionibacterium acnes, such as propionibacterium acnes strain ATCC 6919.
"culture supernatant" ("culture supernatant") is also referred to as "conditioned medium" ("conditioned culture medium") and is typically obtained by culturing the microorganism in question in a medium suitable for the survival and/or growth of the microorganism, and then by separating the medium and the microorganism to harvest the medium in contact with the microorganism. Preferably, the cultivation is carried out for a period of time and under conditions which would allow the release of the active agent (in particular the short chain fatty acid according to the application) with the desired anti-dandruff properties in the culture medium by the microorganism.
An environment suitable for the survival and/or growth of microorganisms is any nutrient medium suitable for the survival and/or cultivation of microorganisms. It generally contains suitable amounts of carbon and nitrogen sources such as amino acids, sugars, proteins, fatty acids, phosphates, sulphates, minerals and growth factors as well as vitamins.
For the purposes of the present application, the term "conditioned medium" or "culture supernatant" is used indifferently to denote the whole culture supernatant obtained after the cultivation of the microorganism in question, or any fraction or sub-compound of the supernatant obtained by dialysis, fractionation, phase separation, filtration chromatography, affinity chromatography, precipitation, concentration, lyophilization, etc.
In the context of the present application, a conditioned medium from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids according to the application is obtained by a process comprising the steps of:
i) Culturing at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, preferably a microorganism of the species propionibacterium acnes, such as propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919;
ii) separating the culture supernatant from the biomass, in particular by centrifugation;
iii) Recovering culture supernatant; and
iv) optionally, the culture supernatant is stabilised, for example by filtration and/or autoclaving.
As used herein, the term "biomass" refers to propionibacterium acnes cells obtained after performing step i).
Preferably, the filtration is performed using a syringe filter having a pore size between 0.2 μm and 0.45 μm.
The short chain fatty acids or conditioned medium according to the application are used in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.3% to 1.0% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
Another subject of the present application is a cosmetic method intended for preventing and/or treating skin desquamation disorders such as dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis, associated with the proliferation of malassezia yeasts, more particularly of the limiting malassezia species, comprising: a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of i) at least one short chain fatty acid or ii) a conditioned medium, wherein the at least one short chain fatty acid is selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, the conditioned medium being derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, the medium comprising at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, is applied to the hair and/or skin.
Another subject of the application is a cosmetic method intended for maintaining and/or restoring the skin ecological flora at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts, more particularly by limiting malassezia species, and/or by mediating propionibacterium acnes, comprising: applying to the hair and/or skin a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of i) at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises a cosmetically acceptable medium, that is to say a medium compatible with topical application to keratin materials, in particular the skin.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition has a pH between 6 and 8, in particular a neutral pH between 6.5 and 7.5, in particular 7.0.
Advantageously, the short chain fatty acids or conditioned medium according to the application are present in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.3% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
In a first preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a composition for the scalp, which may be a rinse-off or leave-on composition. The composition is preferably in the form of a shampoo, cream, mousse (aerosol or non-aerosol), paste, gel, emulsion, lotion or even stick. Preferably, the composition for hair is a shampoo, gel or lotion.
In a second preferred embodiment, the cosmetic composition is a composition for the skin, which may be more or less fluid, and may have the appearance of a white or coloured cream, ointment, emulsion, lotion, serum, paste or foam. They may optionally be applied to the skin in aerosol form. They may also be in solid form, for example in the form of rods or compact powders. In particular, the cosmetic composition may be in the form of an after-shave gel (after shave gel) or lotion, a body hygiene composition (such as a shower gel), a solid composition (such as a soap or cleansing block), a composition for caring for or cleansing the skin, among others.
The cosmetic composition preferably comprises water and/or one or more water-miscible organic solvents which may be selected from: linear or branched C1 to C6 monoalcohols, such as ethanol, isopropanol, tert-butanol or n-butanol; polyols such as glycerol, propylene glycol, hexylene glycol (or 2-methyl-2, 4-pentanediol), and polyethylene glycol; polyhydric alcohol ethers such as dipropylene glycol monomethyl ether; and mixtures thereof.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises from 30% to 98% by weight, in particular from 40% to 95% by weight, more preferably from 50% to 90% by weight, of water, relative to the total weight of the composition.
Preferably, the cosmetic composition comprises from 0.05% to 60% by weight, preferably from 0.5% to 50% by weight and more preferably from 1% to 40% by weight of water, relative to the total weight of the cosmetic composition.
The cosmetic composition according to the application may also comprise at least one usual cosmetic ingredient, chosen in particular from: vegetable, mineral, animal or synthetic oils; a liquid fatty alcohol; a liquid fatty ester; solid fatty substances, in particular waxes, solid fatty esters, solid alcohols; anionic surfactants, cationic surfactants, amphoteric surfactants, and nonionic surfactants; anionic, nonionic, amphoteric and cationic polymers; antidandruff agents other than short chain fatty acids or conditioned medium according to the application; an antioxidant; an anti-hair loss agent; a silicone; a perfume; polymeric or non-polymeric thickeners, particularly associative polymers; optionally a preservative; a chelating agent; a colorant. Of course, the composition may comprise several cosmetic ingredients that appear in the list above. One skilled in the art will note that the ingredients and amounts of the ingredients that make up the composition are selected such that the advantageous properties of the composition according to the application are not or substantially not adversely affected by the intended addition.
After application of the short chain fatty acid or conditioned medium or the composition to the hair and/or skin, a rinsing (e.g. with water) step may or may not be performed.
Throughout the specification, including the claims, unless the context requires otherwise, the expression "comprising" is to be understood as synonymous with "comprising at least one".
Furthermore, unless indicated to the contrary, "at least one" is to be understood as synonymous with "one or more".
Unless stated to the contrary, "greater than/more than," between and "within the range of..to … …" should be understood to include the limits.
The following examples and figures are given by way of illustration and not as a limitation of the application.
These compounds are cited by chemical names or CTFA (international cosmetic ingredient dictionary and handbook) names as appropriate.
The application is illustrated in more detail in the following examples.
Drawings
Fig. 1: effect of SCFA on growth of limiting malassezia.
Fig. 2: effect of SCFA on propionibacterium acnes growth.
Fig. 3: effect of SCFA on staphylococcus epidermidis growth.
Fig. 4: the effect of fatty acids (50 mM) on growth of limiting malassezia was quantified using fluorescent staining.
Fig. 5: by measuring the effect of ATP quantification, fatty acid esters and metal salts (50 mM) on growth of limiting malassezia.
Fig. 6: fatty acids, esters and metal salts on propionibacterium acnes growth.
Fig. 7: fatty acids, esters and metal salts affect the growth of staphylococcus epidermidis.
Fig. 8: effect of SCFA on propionibacterium acnes growth when propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis are co-cultivated under aerobic conditions.
Detailed Description
Examples
Example 1-evaluation of the Selective inhibition of growth of limiting malassezia by sodium propionate, sodium butyrate and sodium valerate (according to the present application).
A) Materials and methods
Organisms and growth conditions
Restriction malassezia (m.restricta) ATCC MYA-4611, staphylococcus epidermidis (s.epideris) ATCC 12228 and propionibacterium acnes (c.acnes) ATCC 6919 were purchased from ATCC. The limiting malassezia was routinely cultured in Modified Dixon (MD) medium (pH 6), wherein the MD medium consists of a culture medium consisting of a mixture of 1 liter of dH 2 36g of malt extract (Sigma 70167) in O, 20g of dehydrated ox bile (Sigma 70168), 6g of Bacto (TM) peptone (BD 211677), 1% (v/v) Tween 40 (Sigma P1504), 0.2% (v/v) oleic acid (Fluka 75096) and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol (Promega H5433); propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis were cultured in a Modified Brain Heart Infusion (MBHI) medium (pH 7) containing 37g of BHI base (accumdia 7116B), 0.4% (v/v) tween-40 (Sigma P1504), 0.2% (v/v) oleic acid (Fluka 75096) and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol (Promega H5433) in 1 liter dH 2O. The limiting malassezia and staphylococcus epidermidis were grown under aerobic conditions with shaking at 200rpm, while propionibacterium acnes were grown under anaerobic conditions. All organisms were grown at 33 ℃. If necessary, the medium is also supplemented with: sodium acetate (CH) 3 COOH, sigma ref.32319), sodium propionate (CH 3 CH 2 COOH, sigma ref.p1880), sodium butyrate (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 2 COOH,Sigma Ref.303410)、Valeric acid (CH) 3 (CH 2 ) 3 COOH, fluka ref.75054). For valeric acid, the pH of the modified cell culture medium was neutralized with NaOH (sodium hydroxide, sigma 283060).
Quantification of total cell number by SYTO9
The limiting malassezia cells were harvested from 1ml of culture by centrifugation at 10000 Xg for 5 minutes at room temperature. The cells were washed once, pelleted, and resuspended in 0.9% NaCl solution. Equal volumes of the above cell suspension and SYTO9 working stock (3. Mu.l SYTO9 component of Live/Dead Baclight viability kit, thermoFisher Scientific, L7012, diluted in 1ml of 0.9% NaCl solution) were thoroughly mixed, incubated for 10 min in the dark, and fluorescence intensity units were measured in a Tecan microplate reader using excitation/emission wavelengths of 485/530 nm. A standard curve of fluorescence units versus concentration was prepared under an optical microscope using a fluorometer and a cytometer. The standard curve was used to calculate the total number of cells.
Growth assay
Limiting malassezia cells stored as glycerol stock (30% glycerol in MD medium) were revived by plating on MD agar plates and incubated for 2 to 3 days at 33 ℃. Precultures were prepared from cell plateaus grown on agar plates. Cells were scraped from 1/4 plate, suspended in 70ml of MD medium in 250ml folding Erlenmeyer flask (baffled erlenmeyer flask), homogenized and incubated at 200rpm for 24 hours at 33 ℃. For the experiment, 10 7 Cells/ml were inoculated in fresh MD medium with or without short chain fatty acids. Growth was monitored by measuring cell density with SYTO9 for up to 24 hours or 96 hours. Propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis were treated with OD respectively 600 Initial cell densities of 0.05 and 0.25 were inoculated into MBHI medium. Bacterial growth was measured by plating serial dilutions of the cultures onto brain heart infusion agar plates at different time points and propionibacterium acnes were colony counted after 72 hours and staphylococcus epidermidis after 24 hours.
Quantification of Colony Forming Units (CFU):
bacterial growth was quantified by plating serial dilutions of cultures onto brain heart infusion agar plates at different time points and colony counting propionibacterium acnes after 72 hours and staphylococci (Staphylococcus sp) after 24 hours.
B) Results
Sodium propionate, sodium butyrate and sodium valerate completely inhibited growth of limiting malassezia at a concentration of 30 mM. No effect of acetate was observed at the same concentration (fig. 1).
Sodium propionate, sodium butyrate and sodium valerate did not affect the growth of propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis at concentrations (30 mM) where complete inhibition of limiting malassezia was observed (figures 2 and 3).
Conclusion(s): sodium propionate, sodium butyrate and sodium valerate selectively inhibited limiting malassezia and did not affect the growth of other major skin commensal microorganisms such as propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis.
Example 2-evaluation of growth promotion of Propionibacterium acnes by sodium propionate (according to the application)
A) Materials and methods
Organisms and growth conditions
Staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC 12228 and propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919 were purchased from ATCC. Culturing Propionibacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis in a Modified Brain Heart Infusion (MBHI) medium (pH 7) containing a culture medium of about 1 liter dH 2 37g of BHI base in O (Accumedia 7116B), 0.4% (v/v) Tween-40 (Sigma P1504), 0.2% (v/v) oleic acid (Fluka 75096) and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol (Promega H5433). Staphylococcus epidermidis was grown conventionally under aerobic conditions with shaking at 200rpm, and propionibacterium acnes was grown under anaerobic conditions. All organisms were grown at 33 ℃. If necessary, the medium is also supplemented with: sodium propionate (CH) 3 CH 2 COOH,Sigma Ref.P1880),
Growth assay
Acne CAcidobacilli and staphylococcus epidermidis respectively at OD 600 Initial cell densities of 0.05 and 0.25 were inoculated in MBHI medium. Bacterial growth was measured by plating serial dilutions of the cultures onto brain heart infusion agar plates at different time points and propionibacterium acnes were colony counted after 72 hours and staphylococcus epidermidis after 24 hours.
Co-culture assay
For co-cultivation, 10 milliliters (ml) per well in a 24 well glass bottom plate 5 Cell density of individual cells equal volume index growing cells of both species were mixed. The growth of each species in co-culture was quantified by spreading the culture suspension on agar medium. To selectively quantify each bacterium in the co-culture, agar plates were either grown under aerobic conditions to promote selective growth of staphylococcus epidermidis or grown under anaerobic conditions to selectively count propionibacterium acnes with furazolidone, which alone killed staphylococcus epidermidis.
Quantification of Colony Forming Units (CFU)
Bacterial growth was quantified by plating serial dilutions of cultures onto brain heart infusion agar plates at different time points, and propionibacterium acnes were colony counted after 72 hours and staphylococci (Staphylococcus sp) were colony counted after 24 hours.
B) Results
Staphylococcus epidermidis is cultured until biofilm formation is maximized, and propionibacterium acnes cells are then added to an oxygen-saturated fresh medium with or without propionate. Unless propionate is metabolized by staphylococcus epidermidis, propionibacterium acnes growth will be minimal, which will allow for propionibacterium acnes growth.
Propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis were monitored for growth for 24, 48 and 72 hours, and propionibacterium acnes growth was found to be enhanced in the presence of propionate (fig. 8). Significantly stronger growth of propionibacterium acnes in the presence of propionate under aerobic conditions suggests that propionate in the presence of staphylococci can modulate the colonial dynamics of the skin microbiota by promoting the growth of propionibacterium acnes.
Example 3-evaluation and medium chain fatty acids: metal salts of caproic acid, caprylic acid, ethyl caproate, glyceryl monocaprylate, propylene glycol monocaprylate (outside of the present application) and short chain fatty acids: zinc propionate (outside the present application) selectively inhibits growth of limiting malassezia compared to sodium propionate, sodium butyrate and sodium valerate (according to the present application).
A)Materials and methods
Organisms and growth conditions
Restriction malassezia ATCC MYA-4611, staphylococcus epidermidis ATCC 12228 and Propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919 were purchased from ATCC. Limited malassezia were routinely cultured in Modified Dixon (MD) medium (pH 6) consisting of a culture medium containing a mixture of 1 liter dH 2 36g of malt extract (Sigma 70167) in O, 20g of dried oxgall (Dessicated Oxbile) (Sigma 70168), 6g of Bacto (TM) peptone (BD 211677), 1% (v/v) Tween 40 (Sigma P1504), 0.2% (v/v) oleic acid (Fluka 75096) and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol (Promega H5433). Propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis were cultured in a Modified Brain Heart Infusion (MBHI) medium (pH 7) containing 37g of BHI base (accumdia 7116B), 0.4% (v/v) tween-40 (Sigma P1504), 0.2% (v/v) oleic acid (Fluka 75096) and 0.2% (v/v) glycerol (Promega H5433) in 1 liter dH 2O. The limiting malassezia and staphylococcus epidermidis grew routinely under aerobic conditions with shaking at 200rpm, whereas propionibacterium acnes grew under anaerobic conditions. All organisms were grown at 33 ℃. The medium was supplemented with 50mM, as needed: sodium propionate (CH) 3 CH 2 COOH, sigma ref.p1880), sodium butyrate (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 2 COOH, sigma Ref.303410), valeric acid (CH 3 (CH 2 ) 3 COOH, fluka ref.75054). For valeric acid, the pH of the modified cell culture medium was neutralized with NaOH (sodium hydroxide, sigma 283060).
Quantification of Total cell number of limiting malassezia by SYTO9
The limiting malassezia cells were harvested from 1ml of this culture by centrifugation at 10000 Xg for 5 minutes at room temperature. The cells were washed once, pelleted, and resuspended in 0.9% NaCl solution. Equal volumes of the above cell suspension and SYTO9 working stock (3. Mu.l SYTO9 component of Live/Dead Baclight viability kit, thermoFisher Scientific, L7012, diluted in 1ml of 0.9% NaCl solution) were thoroughly mixed, incubated for 10 min in the dark, and fluorescence intensity units were measured in a Tecan microplate reader using excitation/emission wavelengths of 485/530 nm. A standard curve of fluorescence units versus concentration was prepared under an optical microscope using a fluorometer and a cytometer. The standard curve was used to calculate the total number of cells.
Growth assay
Limiting malassezia cells stored as glycerol stock (30% glycerol in MD medium) were revitalized by universal on MD agar plates and incubated for 2 to 3 days at 33 ℃. Precultures were prepared from cell plateaus grown on agar plates. Cells were scraped from 1/4 plate, suspended in 70ml of MD medium in a 250ml folding Erlenmeyer flask, homogenized and incubated at 200rpm for 24 hours at 33 ℃. For the experiment, 10 7 Cells/ml were inoculated in fresh MD medium with or without 50mM concentration of short chain fatty acids. Growth was monitored for 24 hours or 96 hours by measuring cell density with SYTO9 or by assessing ATP concentration (see below). Propionibacterium acnes and staphylococcus epidermidis were treated with OD respectively 600 Initial cell densities of 0.05 and 0.25 were inoculated in MBHI medium. Bacterial growth was measured by plating serial dilutions of the cultures onto brain heart infusion agar plates at different time points and propionibacterium acnes were colony counted after 72 hours and staphylococcus epidermidis after 24 hours.
ATP assessment
Cellular ATP was measured using the BacTiterGlo microbial cell viability (Promega) kit according to the manufacturer's protocol. Briefly, luciferase activity using ATP as a substrate was evaluated as a direct measure of ATP produced by cells.
B) Results
Due to the different nature of the different compounds interfering with the analytical readings, growth assessment of the limiting malassezia was performed using two different methods:
for all fatty acids and caproate, the total number of cells after 72 hours of incubation was quantified by fluorescent measurement of cells stained with the fluorescent dye SYTO9 (see methods). Initial cell density of limiting malassezia was 1×10 7 Cells/ml (FIG. 4).
For caprylate and zinc propionate, cell viability was quantified by assessing the total amount of ATP in cell lysates prepared from 24 hour-grown cells (as these compounds make the medium opaque). The ATP measurement is expressed in Relative Luminescence Units (RLU) of light emitted by the luciferase in the presence of ATP (fig. 5).
Propionibacterium acnes growth was quantified by assessing Colony Forming Units (CFU) after 72 hours of growth in medium containing fatty acids and esters thereof (FIG. 6).
The growth of staphylococcus epidermidis was quantified by evaluating Colony Forming Units (CFU) after 24 hours of growth in medium containing fatty acids and their esters (fig. 7). The results are shown in tables 1 and 2 below.
TABLE 1 test compounds according to the application
* NaP: sodium propionate, naB: sodium butyrate, naV: sodium valerate.
TABLE 2 test compounds outside of the application
* Cpo: caproic acid, EH Cpo: ethyl caproate, cpy: octanoic acid, GM Cpy: glycerol monocaprylate, PGM Cpy: propylene glycol monocaprylate, zn Pr: zinc propionate.
Conclusion(s): sodium propionate, sodium butyrate and sodium valerate (compounds according to the application) selectively inhibited limiting malassezia compared to caproic acid, ethyl caproate, caprylic acid, glyceryl monocaprylate, propylene glycol glyceryl monocaprylate, zinc propionate (compounds other than the application) which were found to inhibit at least one skin commensal microorganism, and did not affect the growth of other major skin commensal microorganisms such as propionibacterium acnes and streptococcus epidermidis.
EXAMPLE 3 face cream
The compositions described below were prepared.
TABLE 3 cream compositions
Compounds of formula (I) Concentration (w/w)
Sodium propionate 1.0
Methyl stearoyl taurine sodium salt 0.23
Xanthan gum 0.05
Carbomer (carbomer) 0.2
Water and its preparation method qs 100
The composition is applied to skin having symptoms of seborrheic dermatitis.

Claims (10)

  1. Cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, as an antidandruff agent.
  2. Cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, non-metallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, for the prevention and/or treatment of skin desquamation disorders associated with proliferation of malassezia yeasts.
  3. Cosmetic use of i) at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short-chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short-chain fatty acid selected from propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, for maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes (Cutibacterium acnes).
  4. 4. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the short chain fatty acid is selected from sodium propionate, sodium butyrate, sodium valerate and mixtures thereof.
  5. 5. Cosmetic use according to any one of the preceding claims, wherein the short chain fatty acid is obtained from at least one microorganism of the propionibacterium acnes species, preferably from at least one microorganism of propionibacterium acnes strain ATCC 6919.
  6. 6. A cosmetic use according to any one of claims 1 to 3, wherein the conditioned medium is obtained by a process comprising the steps of:
    i) Culturing at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, preferably a microorganism of the species propionibacterium acnes, such as propionibacterium acnes ATCC 6919;
    ii) separating the culture supernatant from the biomass, in particular by centrifugation;
    iii) Recovering the culture supernatant; and
    iv) optionally, the culture supernatant is stabilised, for example by filtration and/or autoclaving.
  7. 7. Cosmetic method intended for preventing and/or treating skin desquamation disorders associated with the proliferation of malassezia yeasts, such as dandruff and/or seborrheic dermatitis, comprising: applying to the hair and/or skin a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of i) at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof.
  8. 8. Cosmetic method intended for maintaining and/or restoring the ecological flora of the skin at normal levels, in particular by preventing excessive colonization of the skin by malassezia yeasts and/or by mediating the growth of propionibacterium acnes, comprising: applying to the hair and/or skin a cosmetic composition comprising an effective amount of i) at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof, or ii) a conditioned medium derived from at least one microorganism capable of producing one or more short chain fatty acids, said medium comprising at least one short chain fatty acid selected from the group consisting of propionic acid, butyric acid, valeric acid, nonmetallic salts thereof, esters thereof and mixtures thereof.
  9. 9. Cosmetic method according to claim 7 or 8, wherein the short chain fatty acid or the conditioned medium is present in an amount of 0.01% to 5% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition, preferably 0.3% to 1% by weight relative to the total weight of the composition.
  10. 10. The cosmetic method according to any one of claims 7 to9, wherein the cosmetic composition is in the form of a shampoo, a cream, a mousse, a paste, a gel, an emulsion, a lotion or even a stick.
CN202180086773.4A 2020-12-21 2021-12-20 Use of short chain fatty acids as antidandruff agents Pending CN116940330A (en)

Applications Claiming Priority (4)

Application Number Priority Date Filing Date Title
SG10202012868V 2020-12-21
SG10202012868V 2020-12-21
FRFR2106639 2021-06-22
PCT/EP2021/086855 WO2022136302A1 (en) 2020-12-21 2021-12-20 Use of a short chain fatty acid as antidandruff agent

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CN116940330A true CN116940330A (en) 2023-10-24

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