FR2706769A1 - Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Geum. - Google Patents
Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Geum. Download PDFInfo
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- FR2706769A1 FR2706769A1 FR9307733A FR9307733A FR2706769A1 FR 2706769 A1 FR2706769 A1 FR 2706769A1 FR 9307733 A FR9307733 A FR 9307733A FR 9307733 A FR9307733 A FR 9307733A FR 2706769 A1 FR2706769 A1 FR 2706769A1
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
- A61Q19/08—Anti-ageing preparations
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
- A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
- A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
- A61K36/73—Rosaceae (Rose family), e.g. strawberry, chokeberry, blackberry, pear or firethorn
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- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
- A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
- A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
- A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
- A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
- A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q17/00—Barrier preparations; Preparations brought into direct contact with the skin for affording protection against external influences, e.g. sunlight, X-rays or other harmful rays, corrosive materials, bacteria or insect stings
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
- A61Q7/00—Preparations for affecting hair growth
-
- A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
- A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
- A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
- A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
- A61K2800/74—Biological properties of particular ingredients
- A61K2800/78—Enzyme modulators, e.g. Enzyme agonists
- A61K2800/782—Enzyme inhibitors; Enzyme antagonists
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- Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
- Dermatology (AREA)
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- Gerontology & Geriatric Medicine (AREA)
- Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
- Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
- Medical Informatics (AREA)
- Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
- Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
- Cosmetics (AREA)
Abstract
Description
La benoite commune, Geum urbanum L. est connue depuis l'antiquité.The common benoite, Geum urbanum L. has been known since antiquity.
Délaissée par les médecins dès le 16e siècle, ce n'est que depuis une période récente que les phytothérapeutes s'y intéressent à nouveau, grâce aux analyses chimiques qui ont permis de mettre en évidence la présence de substances actives.Abandoned by doctors from the 16th century, it is only since a recent period that phytotherapists have been interested in it again, thanks to chemical analyzes which have made it possible to highlight the presence of active substances.
En phytothérapie elle est préconisée pour ses activités fébrifuges, toniques, vulnéraires et digestives.In herbal medicine it is recommended for its febrifuge, tonic, vulnerable and digestive activities.
L'objet du présent brevet est la découverte que certains extraits obtenus de cette plante possèdent des activités biochimiques utiles pour l'application cosmétique et dermopharmaceutique, à savoir le pouvoir d'inhibition des protéases du tissu conjonctifs comme la collagénase ou l'élastase. D'autres extraits d'autres plantes ayant une activité semblable ont été décrits. Mais ces extraits contiennent surtout des oligomères ou polymères de proanthocyanidols. Ces molécules, de nature tanique, sont difficiles à maîtriser et à stabiliser, à protéger contre l'oxydation et la coloration. En plus, les extraits issus de ces plantes (vigne, cyprès, pin et autres) présentent le risque de contenir un monomère flavanique, le catéchol, interdit en cosmétique. La technologie d'obtention est complexe, couteuse et génère habituellement des rejets importants nuisibles pour l'environnement, qui necessitent des retraitements.The object of this patent is the discovery that certain extracts obtained from this plant have biochemical activities useful for cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical application, namely the power of inhibition of connective tissue proteases such as collagenase or elastase. Other extracts from other plants with similar activity have been described. But these extracts mainly contain oligomers or polymers of proanthocyanidols. These molecules, tannic in nature, are difficult to control and stabilize, to protect against oxidation and coloring. In addition, extracts from these plants (vine, cypress, pine and others) present the risk of containing a flavanic monomer, catechol, prohibited in cosmetics. Obtaining technology is complex, expensive and usually generates significant discharges harmful to the environment, which require reprocessing.
Les extraits de Geum urbanum L. objets du présent brevet sont exempts de ces inconvénients: pas de proanthocyanidols, contrairement à beaucoup de plantes à tanins de la famille des Rosaceae (Filipendula, Agrimonia,
Fragaria, Urubus...), stabilité de couleur et d'activité, plante ubiquitaire et facile à cultiver, procédé d'extraction fiable. The extracts of Geum urbanum L. which are the subject of this patent are free from these drawbacks: no proanthocyanidols, unlike many tannin plants in the Rosaceae family (Filipendula, Agrimonia,
Fragaria, Urubus ...), color and activity stability, ubiquitous and easy to cultivate plant, reliable extraction process.
Ces extraits sont caractérisés au plan chimique par des tanins hydrolysables accompagnés d'acide ellagique, d'acide ascorbique ainsi que de petites quantités d'acide chlorogénique et/ou d'acide caféique.These extracts are characterized chemically by hydrolysable tannins accompanied by ellagic acid, ascorbic acid as well as small amounts of chlorogenic acid and / or caffeic acid.
Ces trois derniers acides présents avec les tanins hydrolysables dans Geum
urbanum L. et les extraits décrits contribuent à la stabilité de ces derniers au cours de la conservation des extraits.These last three acids present with the hydrolysable tannins in Geum
urbanum L. and the extracts described contribute to the stability of the latter during the conservation of the extracts.
A titre d'exemple nous décrivons une extraction de Geum urbanum L. qui
peut être industrialisée à faible coût: 200 g de plante sèche (plante entière ou préférentiellement les parties aériennes de Geum urbanum L.) sont macérés pendant 24 heures dans
1500 ml d'éthanol (40%). Après filtration on récupère un filtrat jaune limpide que l'on concentre sous vide à 100 ml. On précipite avec 200 ml méthanol
(95%) pendant 40 heures et on filtre à nouveau afin d'éliminer des tanins très polymérisés qui brunissent au contact de l'air. Le filtrat est concentré sous vide afin d'évaporer la totalité du solvant et repris dans un excipient convenable comme le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine ou d'autres solvants similaires ou des mélanges appropriés.As an example we describe an extraction of Geum urbanum L. which
can be industrialized at low cost: 200 g of dry plant (whole plant or preferably the aerial parts of Geum urbanum L.) are macerated for 24 hours in
1500 ml of ethanol (40%). After filtration, a clear yellow filtrate is recovered which is concentrated under vacuum to 100 ml. Precipitate with 200 ml methanol
(95%) for 40 hours and filter again to remove highly polymerized tannins which turn brown on contact with air. The filtrate is concentrated in vacuo in order to evaporate all of the solvent and taken up in a suitable excipient such as propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin or other similar solvents or suitable mixtures.
On obtient un produit stable, contenant environ 7% de matière sèche.A stable product is obtained, containing approximately 7% dry matter.
Rapportée à la matière sèche, la teneur en tanins hydrolysables est d'environ 15-20% et la teneur en acide ascorbique entre 0,01 et 0.1 %.Relative to dry matter, the content of hydrolyzable tannins is around 15-20% and the content of ascorbic acid between 0.01 and 0.1%.
A la place de Geum urbanum on peut employer d'autres espèces de Geum:
Geum élatum, Geum rivale, Geum aleppicum, Geum calthffolium, Geum laponicum,
La partie de plante utilisée pour l'extraction peut être, la plante entière, la partie aérienne, la feuille, la tige, la sommité fleurie, la racine, à l'état frais ou sec, divisée grossièrement, finement ou pulvérisée.In place of Geum urbanum we can use other species of Geum:
Geum elatum, Geum rivale, Geum aleppicum, Geum calthffolium, Geum laponicum,
The part of the plant used for the extraction can be the whole plant, the aerial part, the leaf, the stem, the flowering head, the root, in the fresh or dry state, roughly divided, finely or pulverized.
Les solvants d'extraction de départ peuvent être choisis parmi l'eau,
I'éthanol, le méthanol, I'acétone, un mélange méthanol-eau ou un mélange éthanol-eau ou acétone-eau.The starting extraction solvents can be chosen from water,
Ethanol, methanol, acetone, a methanol-water mixture or an ethanol-water or acetone-water mixture.
L'exemple donné de fabrication de l'extrait n'est pas limitatif. Les améliorations, optimisations et modifications du procédé envisageables sont évidentes pour l'homme de l'art. La concentration sous vide après la première extraction peut varier entre 2 et 30 fois. Pour la précipitation à l'alcool, on utilise entre 1 et 10 parties en poids d'alcool choisi parmi le méthanol, I'éthanol, le propanol ou l'acétone. Le mélange est laissé au repos pendant une durée comprise entre 1 heure et 10 jours puis filtré. A la place de la macération simple, on peut employer des techniques à contre courant, la décoction, la lixiviation, I'extraction sous reflux, I'extraction à l'aide d'ultrasons, de micro-ondes associée ou non aux solvants.The example given for making the extract is not limiting. The conceivable improvements, optimizations and modifications of the process are obvious to those skilled in the art. The concentration under vacuum after the first extraction can vary between 2 and 30 times. For alcohol precipitation, between 1 and 10 parts by weight of alcohol chosen from methanol, ethanol, propanol or acetone are used. The mixture is left to stand for a period of between 1 hour and 10 days and then filtered. Instead of simple maceration, countercurrent techniques can be used, decoction, leaching, reflux extraction, extraction using ultrasound, microwaves, whether or not combined with solvents.
Pour certaines applications cosmétiques il peut s'avérer utile de préparer un extrait sec à partir de l'extrait liquide. Ceci peut être réalisé par les techniques de séchage appropriées, d'évaporation, de nébulisation ou de préférence de lyophilisation.For certain cosmetic applications it may prove useful to prepare a dry extract from the liquid extract. This can be achieved by appropriate drying, evaporation, nebulization or preferably lyophilization techniques.
L'activité biochimique la plus évidente de l'extrait est le pouvoir inhibiteur des protéases. The most obvious biochemical activity of the extract is the inhibitory power of the proteases.
Un exemple illustre cet effet:
Le principe du test de l'activité antiélastase est le suivant: on laisse agir une quantité d'élastase connue sur un substrat synthétique, la succinyltri-alanine-nitroanilide (SANA). Lors de l'hydrolyse de ce substrat par l'enzyme, un chromophore dérivé de la nitroaniline est libéré, avec génération d'un signal d'absorption. La cinétique de la réaction enzymatique peut ainsi être suivie par spectroscopie.An example illustrates this effect:
The principle of the antielastase activity test is as follows: a known quantity of elastase is allowed to act on a synthetic substrate, succinyltri-alanine-nitroanilide (SANA). During the hydrolysis of this substrate by the enzyme, a chromophore derived from nitroaniline is released, with generation of an absorption signal. The kinetics of the enzymatic reaction can thus be followed by spectroscopy.
Protocole:
Dans une cuve spectrophotométrique on mélange I ml de la solution de
SANA avec 1.8 ml de tampon tris ainsi que des concentrations croissantes (0.5, 1, 2.5%) de l'extrait de Geum urbanum. On rajoute 100ul de la solution d'élastase et on enregistre l'apparition du signal de l'absorption à 410 nm.Protocol:
In a spectrophotometric tank, I ml of the solution of
SANA with 1.8 ml of sorting buffer as well as increasing concentrations (0.5, 1, 2.5%) of the extract of Geum urbanum. 100 μl of the elastase solution are added and the appearance of the absorption signal at 410 nm is recorded.
La pente de la droite est un reflet de la vitesse de l'hydrolyse, pour une concentration de SANA et d'élastine donnnées.The slope of the line is a reflection of the speed of hydrolysis, for a given concentration of SANA and elastin.
Résultat:
Avec des concentrations croissantes de l'extrait dans le milieu, la pente diminue progressivement. On observe une inhibition de l'activité enzymatique de 10%, 30% et 52% respectivement pour les concentrations mentionnées.Result:
With increasing concentrations of the extract in the medium, the slope gradually decreases. An inhibition of the enzymatic activity of 10%, 30% and 52% respectively is observed for the concentrations mentioned.
D'autres tests d'inhibition protéolytiques (diffusion dans l'agar) confirment cette activité biologique des extraits.Other proteolytic inhibition tests (diffusion in agar) confirm this biological activity of the extracts.
Les extraits ainsi obtenus peuvent être employés dans les produits cosmétiques et dermopharmaceutiques de toute sorte. De telles compositions présentent des activités anti-vieillissement, favorisent ou régulent le renouvellement cellulaire cutané, protègent contre la chute des cheveux et possèdent des activités anti-inflammatoires et antiradicalaires.The extracts thus obtained can be used in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical products of all kinds. Such compositions have anti-aging activities, promote or regulate skin cell renewal, protect against hair loss and have anti-inflammatory and anti-radical activities.
Leur utilisation principale est la cosmétique de soin anti-âge et anti-ride. En outre, les effets toniques de l'extrait contribuent à une restructuration de l'épiderme, améliorent l'aspect de la peau, diminuent la microcirculation capillaire (couperose), donnent élasticité et fermeté à la peau fatiguée.Their main use is anti-aging and anti-wrinkle skincare cosmetics. In addition, the tonic effects of the extract contribute to a restructuring of the epidermis, improve the appearance of the skin, decrease capillary microcirculation (rosacea), give elasticity and firmness to tired skin.
Les extraits de Geum objets du brevet peuvent trouver application également dans les traitements du cuir chevelu (anti-pelliculaire) ou de la peau acnéique.The extracts of Geum which are the subject of the patent may also find application in the treatment of the scalp (anti-dandruff) or of acne skin.
Les extraits de Geum objet du présent brevet peuvent être utilisés dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique: émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, gels, pommades, huiles corporelles, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, sans que cette liste soit limitative.The extracts of Geum which are the subject of this patent can be used in any galenical form used in cosmetics: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body oils, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, without this list being exhaustive.
II est possible d'incorporer les extraits de Geum décrit dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, microet nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, de les absorber sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux. It is possible to incorporate the extracts of Geum described in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs , bentonites and other mineral supports.
La concentration d'utilisation de ces extraits de Geum peut varier entre 0.1 et 30% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 et 10% dans le produit fini. En dessous de ces valeurs, les effets sont négligeables, en dessus il est difficile de formuler un produit cosmétique acceptable. The use concentration of these Geum extracts can vary between 0.1 and 30% (w / w), preferably between 0.5 and 10% in the finished product. Below these values, the effects are negligible, above it is difficult to formulate an acceptable cosmetic product.
Les extraits de Geum peuvent être combinés dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et/ ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins. Geum extracts can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or fat-soluble active ingredients, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
Claims (17)
Priority Applications (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9307733A FR2706769A1 (en) | 1993-06-23 | 1993-06-23 | Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Geum. |
Applications Claiming Priority (1)
Application Number | Priority Date | Filing Date | Title |
---|---|---|---|
FR9307733A FR2706769A1 (en) | 1993-06-23 | 1993-06-23 | Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Geum. |
Publications (2)
Publication Number | Publication Date |
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FR2706769A1 true FR2706769A1 (en) | 1994-12-30 |
FR2706769B1 FR2706769B1 (en) | 1995-07-28 |
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FR9307733A Granted FR2706769A1 (en) | 1993-06-23 | 1993-06-23 | Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions containing an extract of Geum. |
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Cited By (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2765108A1 (en) * | 1997-06-25 | 1998-12-31 | Seppic Sa | Cosmetic compositions containing tannin-rich plant extract and zinc gluconate |
WO2000064405A2 (en) * | 1999-04-22 | 2000-11-02 | Unilever Plc | Treating hair by targeting enzymes |
WO2002069963A2 (en) * | 2001-03-01 | 2002-09-12 | Howard Murad | Compositions comprising ferulic acid, caffeic acid, tannic acid or ellagic acid and their use for the preparation of a medicament for the treatment of dermatological disorders |
Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
LU83173A1 (en) * | 1981-02-27 | 1981-06-05 | Oreal | NOVEL COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF HAIR AND SKIN CONTAINING POWDER RESULTING FROM THE SPRAYING OF AT LEAST ONE PLANT AND A COHESION AGENT |
EP0297640A1 (en) * | 1987-06-30 | 1989-01-04 | IRIS S.a.s. di Salvioli Michele e C. | Phytopreparation for treating skin affections |
JPH04210904A (en) * | 1991-03-14 | 1992-08-03 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Hair care cosmetics |
-
1993
- 1993-06-23 FR FR9307733A patent/FR2706769A1/en active Granted
Patent Citations (3)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
LU83173A1 (en) * | 1981-02-27 | 1981-06-05 | Oreal | NOVEL COSMETIC COMPOSITIONS FOR THE TREATMENT OF HAIR AND SKIN CONTAINING POWDER RESULTING FROM THE SPRAYING OF AT LEAST ONE PLANT AND A COHESION AGENT |
EP0297640A1 (en) * | 1987-06-30 | 1989-01-04 | IRIS S.a.s. di Salvioli Michele e C. | Phytopreparation for treating skin affections |
JPH04210904A (en) * | 1991-03-14 | 1992-08-03 | Shiseido Co Ltd | Hair care cosmetics |
Non-Patent Citations (3)
Title |
---|
"Natur-Extrakte für die Badekosmetik", SEIFE-OELE-FETTE-WACHSE, vol. 112, no. 1, January 1986 (1986-01-01), AUGSBURG, DE, pages 13 - 15 * |
"Werwendung von Herbasol-Extrakten in der Kosmetik", SEIFE-OELE-FETTE-WACHSE, vol. 107, no. 20, December 1981 (1981-12-01), AUGSBURG, DE, pages 623 - 625 * |
DATABASE WPI Week 9237, Derwent World Patents Index; AN 92-304847 * |
Cited By (6)
Publication number | Priority date | Publication date | Assignee | Title |
---|---|---|---|---|
FR2765108A1 (en) * | 1997-06-25 | 1998-12-31 | Seppic Sa | Cosmetic compositions containing tannin-rich plant extract and zinc gluconate |
WO2000064405A2 (en) * | 1999-04-22 | 2000-11-02 | Unilever Plc | Treating hair by targeting enzymes |
WO2000064405A3 (en) * | 1999-04-22 | 2001-05-03 | Unilever Plc | Treating hair by targeting enzymes |
US6399052B2 (en) | 1999-04-22 | 2002-06-04 | Unilever Home & Personal Care Usa Division Of Conopco, Inc. | Treating hair by targeting enzymes |
WO2002069963A2 (en) * | 2001-03-01 | 2002-09-12 | Howard Murad | Compositions comprising ferulic acid, caffeic acid, tannic acid or ellagic acid and their use for the preparation of a medicament for the treatment of dermatological disorders |
WO2002069963A3 (en) * | 2001-03-01 | 2002-11-14 | Howard Murad | Compositions comprising ferulic acid, caffeic acid, tannic acid or ellagic acid and their use for the preparation of a medicament for the treatment of dermatological disorders |
Also Published As
Publication number | Publication date |
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FR2706769B1 (en) | 1995-07-28 |
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