WO1998005299A1 - Novel cosmetic compositions for beautifying and lightening skin - Google Patents

Novel cosmetic compositions for beautifying and lightening skin Download PDF

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Publication number
WO1998005299A1
WO1998005299A1 PCT/FR1996/001820 FR9601820W WO9805299A1 WO 1998005299 A1 WO1998005299 A1 WO 1998005299A1 FR 9601820 W FR9601820 W FR 9601820W WO 9805299 A1 WO9805299 A1 WO 9805299A1
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extracts
cosmetic
mitracarpus
activity according
combination
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PCT/FR1996/001820
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French (fr)
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Daniel Greff
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Sederma S.A.
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Priority to AU24691/97A priority Critical patent/AU2469197A/en
Publication of WO1998005299A1 publication Critical patent/WO1998005299A1/en

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    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/10—Washing or bathing preparations
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/45—Ericaceae or Vacciniaceae (Heath or Blueberry family), e.g. blueberry, cranberry or bilberry
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K36/00—Medicinal preparations of undetermined constitution containing material from algae, lichens, fungi or plants, or derivatives thereof, e.g. traditional herbal medicines
    • A61K36/18—Magnoliophyta (angiosperms)
    • A61K36/185—Magnoliopsida (dicotyledons)
    • A61K36/74—Rubiaceae (Madder family)
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/11—Encapsulated compositions
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/02—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by special physical form
    • A61K8/14—Liposomes; Vesicles
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K8/00—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations
    • A61K8/18—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition
    • A61K8/96—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution
    • A61K8/97—Cosmetics or similar toiletry preparations characterised by the composition containing materials, or derivatives thereof of undetermined constitution from algae, fungi, lichens or plants; from derivatives thereof
    • A61K8/9783—Angiosperms [Magnoliophyta]
    • A61K8/9789—Magnoliopsida [dicotyledons]
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q19/00—Preparations for care of the skin
    • A61Q19/02—Preparations for care of the skin for chemically bleaching or whitening the skin
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/02—Preparations for cleaning the hair
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/412—Microsized, i.e. having sizes between 0.1 and 100 microns
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61K—PREPARATIONS FOR MEDICAL, DENTAL OR TOILETRY PURPOSES
    • A61K2800/00—Properties of cosmetic compositions or active ingredients thereof or formulation aids used therein and process related aspects
    • A61K2800/40—Chemical, physico-chemical or functional or structural properties of particular ingredients
    • A61K2800/41—Particular ingredients further characterized by their size
    • A61K2800/413—Nanosized, i.e. having sizes below 100 nm
    • A—HUMAN NECESSITIES
    • A61—MEDICAL OR VETERINARY SCIENCE; HYGIENE
    • A61Q—SPECIFIC USE OF COSMETICS OR SIMILAR TOILETRY PREPARATIONS
    • A61Q5/00—Preparations for care of the hair
    • A61Q5/006—Antidandruff preparations

Definitions

  • New cosmetic compositions to beautify and brighten the skin.
  • the pigmentation of the skin is due to the synthesis of melanin in specialized cells, as well as to the homogeneous distribution of this melanin in the keratinocytes of the epidermis. In healthy skin, this synthesis is well regulated, modulated by exposure to the sun and by the desquamation process.
  • the object of this patent is the discovery that the extracts of plants belonging to the genus Mitracarpus (family of Rubiaceae) have a strong biological activity which allows them to be used advantageously in cosmetic compositions intended for depigmentation, therefore to lighten the skin, reduce freckles, brown spots, chloasma and other skin discolourations.
  • the usable species of the genus Mitracarpus include inter alia the plants M. scaber Zucc, M. villosus, M.verticillatus without this list being exhaustive.
  • the presence of ydroquinone derivatives for example harounoside (pentalongin hydroquinone diglucoside or ⁇ -D-glucopyranoside 1 H-naphtho [2,3-c] pyran-5,10-diyl bis) (cited by Harouna et al. in Phytochemistry, 1995, 39, 1483-4) could be linked to the lightening activity of the extracts.
  • the advantage of the extracts of this plant lies in a favorable ratio of biological activity on dry matter (and associated color), which is often problematic in cosmetic herbal medicine.
  • the extracts are stable, odorless and easily used in all types of cosmetic products.
  • the extraction solvents for the preparation of the extracts which are the subject of this patent can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyois, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols or any mixture of these solvents.
  • the extracts can be obtained by maceration of the plant in the extraction solvent, for a more or less long period. Instead of simple maceration, countercurrent techniques can be used, decoction, leaching, extraction using ultrasound or microwaves.
  • a dry extract from the liquid extract. This can be achieved by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.
  • Example 1 preparation of an extract of Mitracarpus scaber Zucc .. 100 g of plant (aerial parts) is dry milled finely, then mixed with the extraction solvent (glycerin / water 80/20) and extracted by rapid heating in the microwave. After separation of the plants from the solvent, the extract is discolored, possibly preserved and standardized.
  • Example No. 2 depi ⁇ menting cream
  • Example No. 3 Biochemical activity of the extract of Mitracarpus villosus. An extract prepared according to the extraction method described in Example 1 is subjected to the tyrosinase inhibitory activity test. Tyrosinase is the key enzyme in melanogenesis.
  • compositions exhibit activities regulating the complexion, coloring of the skin, reduction of the intensity of brown spots (freckles), elimination or attenuation of the symptoms of chloasma.
  • Their main use is in specific skin care cosmetics (skin lightening) but the extracts can be incorporated into any cosmetic product since, in addition to the depigmenting activities of the substances contained in the extracts, it is found that these same extracts, especially in combination with bearberry extracts (Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.) contribute to a restructuring of the epidermis, improve the appearance of the skin, reduce capillary micro-circulation (anti-rosacea effect), give elasticity and firmness to tired skin. Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. subject of the patent can also find application in the treatment of the scalp (anti-dandruff) or acne skin.
  • Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. subject of this patent can be used in any dosage form used in cosmetics: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body lotions, lotions capillaries, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, without this list being exhaustive. It is possible to incorporate extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts r'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.
  • the concentration of use of these Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. can vary between 0.01 and 90% (w / w), preferably between 0.5 and 10% in the finished product. Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.
  • cosmetic compositions can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, active ingredients water- or fat-soluble, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.

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  • Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Life Sciences & Earth Sciences (AREA)
  • Veterinary Medicine (AREA)
  • Public Health (AREA)
  • General Health & Medical Sciences (AREA)
  • Animal Behavior & Ethology (AREA)
  • Natural Medicines & Medicinal Plants (AREA)
  • Epidemiology (AREA)
  • Mycology (AREA)
  • Birds (AREA)
  • Microbiology (AREA)
  • Botany (AREA)
  • Biotechnology (AREA)
  • Engineering & Computer Science (AREA)
  • Dermatology (AREA)
  • Chemical & Material Sciences (AREA)
  • Alternative & Traditional Medicine (AREA)
  • Medical Informatics (AREA)
  • Medicinal Chemistry (AREA)
  • Pharmacology & Pharmacy (AREA)
  • Cosmetics (AREA)

Abstract

Plantes of genus Mitracarpus (Rubiaceae family) are used to produce extracts useful in cosmetics for lightening skin, removing brown patches and enhancing skin complexion. Species M. Scaber Zucc., M. Villosus and M. Verticillatus, inter alia, may be used. The extracts are obtained by conventional (maceration, decoction) or novel (microwaves, ultrasound) methods and may contain variable amounts of phenolic, hydroquinone or flavonoid derivatives, particularly harounoside, a pentalongine hydroquinone diglucoside. Said extracts are preferably used in combination with bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.) extracts.

Description

Nouvelles compositions cosmétiques pour embellir et éclâircir la peau. New cosmetic compositions to beautify and brighten the skin.
La pigmentation de la peau est due à la synthèse de mélanine dans les cellules spécialisées, ainsi qu'à la distribution homogène de cette mélanine dans les kératinocytes de l'épiderme. Dans une peau saine, cette synthèse est bien réglée, modulée par l'exposition au soleil et par le processus de desquamation.The pigmentation of the skin is due to the synthesis of melanin in specialized cells, as well as to the homogeneous distribution of this melanin in the keratinocytes of the epidermis. In healthy skin, this synthesis is well regulated, modulated by exposure to the sun and by the desquamation process.
Il arrive, néanmoins, dans de nombreux cas que ce processus complexe soit déréglé : un manque de mélanongénèse (soit dû à un problème génétique, soit à la suite d'une blessure de la peau) est aussi possible qu'une surabondance localisée de pigmentation : les taches de rousseur, les taches de sénescence, et les taches diffuses (chloasma, taches de grossesse) en sont les phénomènes les plus connus. Puisque ces symptômes ne constituent pas de véritables pathologies, étant plus un problème d'esthétique que de santé, et puisque la mélanogénèse a lieu au sein de l'épiderme, c'est l'industrie cosmétique qui s'est intéressée à ce problème.It happens, however, in many cases that this complex process is disturbed: a lack of melanongenesis (either due to a genetic problem, or following a skin injury) is as possible as a localized overabundance of pigmentation : freckles, age spots, and diffuse spots (chloasma, pregnancy spots) are the most known phenomena. Since these symptoms do not constitute real pathologies, being more of an aesthetic problem than of health, and since melanogenesis takes place within the epidermis, it is the cosmetic industry which is interested in this problem.
De nombreuses molécules ou substances ont été proposées pour traiter l'hyperpigmentation de la peau, mais peu ont pu être retenues pour une application topique cosmétique (problème d'irritation, de législation, de toxicité). Celles qui restent après cette sélection ne sont en général pas très efficaces.Many molecules or substances have been proposed to treat hyperpigmentation of the skin, but few have been selected for a topical cosmetic application (problem of irritation, legislation, toxicity). Those that remain after this selection are generally not very effective.
L'objet du présent brevet est la découverte que les extraits des plantes appartenant au genre Mitracarpus (famille des Rubiacées) possèdent une forte activité biologique qui permet de les employer avantageusement dans des compositions cosmétiques destinées à la dépigmentation, donc pour éclâircir la peau, diminuer les taches de rousseur, les taches brunes, le chloasma et d'autres dyschromies cutanées.The object of this patent is the discovery that the extracts of plants belonging to the genus Mitracarpus (family of Rubiaceae) have a strong biological activity which allows them to be used advantageously in cosmetic compositions intended for depigmentation, therefore to lighten the skin, reduce freckles, brown spots, chloasma and other skin discolourations.
Les espèces utilisables du genre Mitracarpus comprennent entre autres les plantes M. scaber Zucc, M. villosus, M.verticillatus sans que cette liste soit limitative. La présence de dérivés de l' ydroquinone, par exemple l' harounoside (pentalongine hydroquinone diglucoside ou β-D-glucopyranoside 1 H-naphtho [2,3-c] pyran-5,10-diyl bis) (cité par Harouna et al. dans Phytochemistry, 1995, 39, 1483-4) pourrait être liée à l'activité éclaircissante des extraits.The usable species of the genus Mitracarpus include inter alia the plants M. scaber Zucc, M. villosus, M.verticillatus without this list being exhaustive. The presence of ydroquinone derivatives, for example harounoside (pentalongin hydroquinone diglucoside or β-D-glucopyranoside 1 H-naphtho [2,3-c] pyran-5,10-diyl bis) (cited by Harouna et al. in Phytochemistry, 1995, 39, 1483-4) could be linked to the lightening activity of the extracts.
L'avantage des extraits de cette plante réside dans un ratio favorable d'activité biologique sur matière sèche (et couleur associée), ce qui est souvent problématique en phytothérapie cosmétique. Les extraits sont stables, sans forte odeur et facilement utilisés dans tous types de produits cosmétiques. Les solvants d'extraction pour la préparation des extraits, objets du présent brevet peuvent être choisis parmi l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, les polyéthylène glycols, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyois cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés ou tout mélange de ces solvants. Les extraits peuvent être obtenus par macération de la plante dans le solvant d'extraction, pendant une durée plus ou moins longue. A la place de la macération simple, on peut employer des techniques à contre- courant, la décoction, la lixiviation, l'extraction à l'aide d'ultrasons ou de micro-ondes.The advantage of the extracts of this plant lies in a favorable ratio of biological activity on dry matter (and associated color), which is often problematic in cosmetic herbal medicine. The extracts are stable, odorless and easily used in all types of cosmetic products. The extraction solvents for the preparation of the extracts which are the subject of this patent can be chosen from water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycols, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyois, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols or any mixture of these solvents. The extracts can be obtained by maceration of the plant in the extraction solvent, for a more or less long period. Instead of simple maceration, countercurrent techniques can be used, decoction, leaching, extraction using ultrasound or microwaves.
Pour certaines applications cosmétiques il peut s'avérer utile de préparer un extrait sec à partir de l'extrait liquide. Ceci peut être réalisé par les techniques classiques de précipitation, de séchage, d'évapo ration, d'atomisation ou de lyophilisation.For certain cosmetic applications it may prove useful to prepare a dry extract from the liquid extract. This can be achieved by conventional techniques of precipitation, drying, evaporation, atomization or lyophilization.
D'autres plantes, comme la busserole {Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.) contiennent des dérivés d ' hydroquinone et sont déjà utilisées pour la dépigmentation cutanée. Un aspect particulier de la découverte, objet du présent brevet, est le fait que la combinaison des extraits de Mitracarpus spp. et de Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. (Busserole) est particulièrement active dans cette application, plus que l'addition simple des effets de chacun de ces extraits ne le laisse supposer. Des exemples vont illustrer les réalisations du brevet : Exemple n° 1 : préparation d' un extrait de Mitracarpus scaber Zucc.. 100 g de plantes (parties aériennes) sèches sont broyés finement, puis mélangés avec le solvant d'extraction (glycérine/eau 80/20) et extrait par chauffage rapide aux micro-ondes. Après la séparation des plantes du solvant, l' extrait est décoloré, éventuellement conservé et standardisé. Exemple n° 2 : crème dépiαmentanteOther plants, such as the bearberry (Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.) contain derivatives of hydroquinone and are already used for skin depigmentation. A particular aspect of the discovery which is the subject of this patent is that the combination of the extracts of Mitracarpus spp. and Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. (Bearberry) is particularly active in this application, more than the simple addition of the effects of each of these extracts suggests. Examples will illustrate the embodiments of the patent: Example 1: preparation of an extract of Mitracarpus scaber Zucc .. 100 g of plant (aerial parts) is dry milled finely, then mixed with the extraction solvent (glycerin / water 80/20) and extracted by rapid heating in the microwave. After separation of the plants from the solvent, the extract is discolored, possibly preserved and standardized. Example No. 2: depiαmenting cream
BrijR 721 2.4Brij R 721 2.4
BrijR 72 2.6Brij R 72 2.6
ArlamolR E 8.0Arlamol R E 8.0
Cire d'abeille 0.5Beeswax 0.5
AbilR ZP 2434 3.0Abil R ZP 2434 3.0
Propylène glycol 3.0Propylene glycol 3.0
CarbopolR 941 0.25Carbopol R 941 0.25
Triéthanolamine 0.250.25 triethanolamine
Extrait de Mitracarpus scaber Zucc. 7.0Mitracarpus scaber Zucc extract. 7.0
Eau, conservateurs, parfums qsp 100 gWater, preservatives, perfumes qs 100 g
Exemple n° 3 : Activité biochimique de I ' extrait de Mitracarpus villosus. Un extrait préparé selon la méthode d ' extraction décrite dans I ' exemple n° 1 est soumis au test d'activité inhibitrice de la tyrosinase. La tyrosinase est l' enzyme clé de la mélanogénèse.Example No. 3: Biochemical activity of the extract of Mitracarpus villosus. An extract prepared according to the extraction method described in Example 1 is subjected to the tyrosinase inhibitory activity test. Tyrosinase is the key enzyme in melanogenesis.
Elle convertit la ty rosi ne en dopa et le dopa en dopachrome. La réaction enzymatique peut être suivie par spectroscopie à 475 nm (apparition du dopachrome). Une action dépigmentante passe - la plupart du temps - par une inhibition de cette réaction enzymatique, empêchant ainsi la synthèse de nouvelles molécules de mélanine dans la peau.It converts ty rosi ne to dopa and dopa to dopachrome. The enzymatic reaction can be followed by spectroscopy at 475 nm (appearance of dopachrome). A depigmenting action goes - most of the time - through an inhibition of this enzymatic reaction, thus preventing the synthesis of new melanin molecules in the skin.
Le test, effectué selon les protocoles enzymatiques standards décrits dans la littérature, montre la forte activité de l'extrait de Mitracarpus villosus. L' effet d' inhibition dépend de la dose : à 0.0125% l' inhibition est de 45%, à 0.025% elle monte à 69%, à 0.05% elle est de 93% et à 0.1% elle est à 99.5%. En combinaison 3:1 à 1 :3 (p/p) avec un extrait semblable obtenu à partir de la busserole, les concentrations actives peuvent encore être baissées grâce à un effet évident de synergie entre les deux extraits. Les extraits de Mitracarpus spp. seuls ou en association avec les extraits d 'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. objets du brevet peuvent être employés dans les produits cosmétiques et dermopharmaceutiques de toute sorte. De telles compositions présentent des activités régulatrices du teint, de coloration de la peau, de diminution de l' intensité des taches brunes (taches de rousseur), d'élimination ou atténuation des symptômes de chloasma. Leur utilisation principale est la cosmétique de soins cutanés spécifiques (éclaircissement de la peau) mais les extraits peuvent être incorporés dans tout produit cosmétique puisque outre les activités dépigmentantes des substances contenus dans les extraits, on constate que ces mêmes extraits, surtout en combinaison avec les extraits de busserole {Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.) contribuent à une restructuration de l'épiderme, améliorent l'aspect de la peau, diminuent la micro-circulation capillaire (effet anti-couperose), donnent élasticité et fermeté à la peau fatiguée. Les extraits de Mitracarpus spp. seuls ou en association avec les extraits d 'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. objet du brevet peuvent trouver application également dans les traitements du cuir chevelu (anti-pelliculaire) ou de la peau acnéique.The test, carried out according to the standard enzymatic protocols described in the literature, shows the high activity of the extract of Mitracarpus villosus. The inhibition effect depends on the dose: at 0.0125% the inhibition is 45%, at 0.025% it rises to 69%, at 0.05% it is 93% and at 0.1% it is 99.5%. In combination 3: 1 to 1: 3 (w / w) with a similar extract obtained from the bearberry, the active concentrations can be further reduced thanks to an obvious synergistic effect between the two extracts. Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. subject of the patent can be used in cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical products of all kinds. Such compositions exhibit activities regulating the complexion, coloring of the skin, reduction of the intensity of brown spots (freckles), elimination or attenuation of the symptoms of chloasma. Their main use is in specific skin care cosmetics (skin lightening) but the extracts can be incorporated into any cosmetic product since, in addition to the depigmenting activities of the substances contained in the extracts, it is found that these same extracts, especially in combination with bearberry extracts (Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L.) contribute to a restructuring of the epidermis, improve the appearance of the skin, reduce capillary micro-circulation (anti-rosacea effect), give elasticity and firmness to tired skin. Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. subject of the patent can also find application in the treatment of the scalp (anti-dandruff) or acne skin.
Les extraits de Mitracarpus spp. seuls ou en association avec les extraits d 'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. objet du présent brevet peuvent être utilisés dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique : émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, gels, pommades, lotions corporelles, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays, sans que cette liste soit limitative. Il est possible d'incorporer les extraits de Mitracarpus spp. seuls ou en association avec les extraits ό'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. décrits dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro-et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, de les absorber sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux. La concentration d'utilisation de ces extraits de Mitracarpus spp. seuls ou en association avec les extraits d 'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. peut varier entre 0.01 et 90% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 et 10% dans le produit fini. Les extraits de Mitracarpus spp. seuls ou en association avec les extraits d ' Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. peuvent être combinés dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique: lipides d'extraction et ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits d'autres plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins. Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. subject of this patent can be used in any dosage form used in cosmetics: O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, ointments, body lotions, lotions capillaries, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays, without this list being exhaustive. It is possible to incorporate extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts r'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. described in cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, to absorb them on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports. The concentration of use of these Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. can vary between 0.01 and 90% (w / w), preferably between 0.5 and 10% in the finished product. Extracts of Mitracarpus spp. alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. can be combined in cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, active ingredients water- or fat-soluble, extracts from other plants, tissue extracts, marine extracts.

Claims

REVENDICATIONS
1) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante, inhibant ou régulant la mélanogénèse et la coloration de la peau, agissant contre les taches brunes (taches de rousseur), chloasma ou autres décolorations, caractérisées en ce qu'elles contiennent au moins un extrait de plantes du genre1) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity, inhibiting or regulating melanogenesis and coloring of the skin, acting against brown spots (freckles), chloasma or other discolourations, characterized in that they contain at least one extract of plants of the genus
Mitracarpus (famille des Rubiaceae).Mitracarpus (family of Rubiaceae).
2 ) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon la revendication 1 caractérisées en ce que les extraits de Mitracarpus précités sont obtenus à partir de la plante entière ou de préférence à partir de la partie aérienne de Mitracarpus scaber Zucc, de Mitracarpus villosus ou de Mitracarpus verticillatus.2) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to claim 1, characterized in that the abovementioned Mitracarpus extracts are obtained from the whole plant or preferably from the aerial part of Mitracarpus scaber Zucc, Mitracarpus villosus or Mitracarpus verticillatus.
3) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 2 caractérisées en ce que les extraits de Mitracarpus sont utilisés en combinaison avec un extrait d ' Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. (busserole) pour un effet synergique.3) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 2, characterized in that the extracts of Mitracarpus are used in combination with an extract of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. (bearberry) for a synergistic effect.
4) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 3 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait de Mitracarpus seul ou en association avec les extraits d ' Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. est obtenu grâce à une extraction des plantes au moyen des techniques de macération, de lixiviation, de décoction, d'extraction à contre courant, d'extraction à l'aide d'ultrasons ou de micro-ondes. 5) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 4 caractérisées en ce que le solvant d'extraction est choisi parmi le groupe constitué par : l'eau, le propylène glycol, le butylène glycol, la glycérine, le polyéthylène glycol, les éthers méthyliques ou éthyliques des diglycols, les polyois cycliques, les diglycols éthoxylés ou propoxylés ou tout mélange de ces solvants.4) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 3, characterized in that the extract of Mitracarpus alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. is obtained by extracting plants using maceration, leaching, decoction, counter-current extraction, ultrasonic or microwave extraction. 5) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 4, characterized in that the extraction solvent is chosen from the group consisting of: water, propylene glycol, butylene glycol, glycerin, polyethylene glycol, methyl or ethyl ethers of diglycols, cyclic polyois, ethoxylated or propoxylated diglycols or any mixture of these solvents.
6) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 5 caractérisées en ce que l'extrait est utilisé soit sous forme liquide soit sous forme sèche obtenue par précipitation, atomisation, évaporation ou lyophilisation.6) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 5, characterized in that the extract is used either in liquid form or in dry form obtained by precipitation, atomization, evaporation or lyophilization.
7) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 6 caractérisées en ce que la concentration des extraits de Mitracarpus seuls ou en association avec les extraits û' Arctostaphylos Uva ursi-.. est comprise entre 0.01 et 90% (p/p), préférentiellement entre 0.5 et 10% en poids de la composition totale.7) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 6, characterized in that the concentration of the extracts of Mitracarpus alone or in combination with the extracts û 'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi- .. is between 0.01 and 90% (w / w), preferably between 0.5 and 10% by weight of the total composition.
8) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 7 caractérisées en ce que les extraits de Mitracarpus seuls ou en association avec les extraits d'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi . sont utilisés dans toute forme galénique employée en cosmétique ou dermopharmacie à savoir les émulsions H/E et E/H, laits, lotions, gels, pommades lotions corporelles, lotions capillaires, shampooings, savons, sticks et crayons, sprays. 9) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 8 caractérisées en ce que les extraits de Mitracarpus seuls ou en association avec les extraits d ' Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. sont incorporés dans des vecteurs cosmétiques comme les liposomes, les chylomicrons, les macro-, micro- et nanoparticules ainsi que les macro-, micro- et nanocapsules, ou absorbés sur des polymères organiques poudreux, les talcs, bentonites et autres supports minéraux.8) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 7, characterized in that the extracts of Mitracarpus alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi. are used in any dosage form used in cosmetics or dermopharmacy, namely O / W and W / O emulsions, milks, lotions, gels, body lotions, hair lotions, shampoos, soaps, sticks and pencils, sprays. 9) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 8, characterized in that the extracts of Mitracarpus alone or in combination with the extracts of Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. are incorporated into cosmetic vectors such as liposomes, chylomicrons, macro-, micro- and nanoparticles as well as macro-, micro- and nanocapsules, or absorbed on powdery organic polymers, talcs, bentonites and other mineral supports.
10) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante seton l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 9 caractérisées en ce que les extraits de Mitracarpus seuls ou en association avec les extraits ά'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. sont combinés dans les compositions cosmétiques avec tout autre ingrédient habituellement utilisé en cosmétique : lipides d'extraction et/ou de synthèse, polymères gélifiants et viscosants, tensioactifs et émulsifiants, principes actifs hydro- ou liposolubles, extraits de plantes, extraits tissulaires, extraits marins.10) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 9, characterized in that the extracts of Mitracarpus alone or in combination with the extracts ά'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi L. are combined in the cosmetic compositions with any other ingredient usually used in cosmetics: extraction and / or synthetic lipids, gelling and viscosifying polymers, surfactants and emulsifiers, water- or liposoluble active principles, plant extracts, tissue extracts, marine extracts.
11) Compositions cosmétiques ou dermopharmaceutiques à activité dépigmentante selon l'une quelconque des revendications de 1 à 10 caractérisées en ce que les extraits de Mitracarpus seuls ou en association avec les extraits û' Arctostaphylos Uva ursi . sont utilisés dans les applications cosmétiques pour les soins de la peau, particulièrement la régulation du teint, la dépigmentation, l'élimination ou l'atténuation des taches brunes (taches de rousseur), des symptômes de chloasma et autres dyschromies cutanées, mais également pour une restructuration de l'épiderme, une amélioration de l'aspect de la peau, une diminution de la micro-circulation capillaire (effet anti-couperose), une amélioration de l'élasticité et la fermeté à la peau fatiguée. 11) Cosmetic or dermopharmaceutical compositions with depigmenting activity according to any one of claims 1 to 10, characterized in that the extracts of Mitracarpus alone or in combination with the extracts û 'Arctostaphylos Uva ursi. are used in cosmetic applications for skin care, particularly the regulation of the complexion, depigmentation, elimination or attenuation of brown spots (freckles), symptoms of chloasma and other skin dyschromias, but also for a restructuring of the epidermis, an improvement in the appearance of the skin, a decrease in capillary micro-circulation (anti-rosacea effect), an improvement in elasticity and firmness in tired skin.
PCT/FR1996/001820 1996-08-02 1996-11-19 Novel cosmetic compositions for beautifying and lightening skin WO1998005299A1 (en)

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KR100365931B1 (en) * 1997-03-12 2003-04-11 주식회사 코리아나화장품 Skin whitening cosmetic containing harounoside
US6974799B2 (en) 2003-11-17 2005-12-13 Sederma S.A.S. Compositions containing mixtures of tetrapeptides and tripeptides
US8846019B2 (en) 2005-09-06 2014-09-30 Sederma Use of protoberberines as an active substance regulating the pilosebaceous unit
US8404648B2 (en) 2006-02-16 2013-03-26 Sederma Polypeptides KXK and their use
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US8507649B2 (en) 2006-05-05 2013-08-13 Sederma Cosmetic compositions comprising at least one peptide with at least one immobilized aromatic cycle
US9775908B2 (en) 2007-07-10 2017-10-03 Egis Gyogyszergyar Nyilvanosan Mukodo Reszvenytarsasag Pharmaceutical preparations containing highly volatile silicones
WO2010067327A1 (en) 2008-12-11 2010-06-17 Sederma Cosmetic composition containing acetylated oligoglucuronans
WO2010082175A2 (en) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma New compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses
WO2010082176A2 (en) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma Cosmetic composition containing kxk type peptides and uses
WO2010082177A2 (en) 2009-01-16 2010-07-22 Sederma New compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses
EP3744729A1 (en) 2009-01-16 2020-12-02 Sederma Compounds, in particular peptides, compositions comprising them and cosmetic and dermopharmaceutical uses
JP2010209023A (en) * 2009-03-11 2010-09-24 Biolink Hanbai Co Ltd Composition for beautiful skin
US9050477B2 (en) 2009-04-17 2015-06-09 Sederma Cosmetic compositions comprising oridonin and new cosmetic uses
WO2010136965A2 (en) 2009-05-26 2010-12-02 Sederma Cosmetic use of tyr-arg dipeptide to combat cutaneous sa
US11154535B2 (en) 2012-07-31 2021-10-26 Egis Pharmaceuticals Plc Transdermal formulation containing COX inhibitors
US10045935B2 (en) 2012-07-31 2018-08-14 Egis Pharmaceuticals Plc Transdermal formulation containing COX inhibitors
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